[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[gwzc_mk2]

guys, this happen to my bike, don noe if its true for the rest of the ver s. whenever i hit round 90km or more, my handle bar tend to vibrate alot. vibrate to the extend that my mirrors are also blur due to the vibration. i brought it to a motordiam, and the mech said its normal for this type of bike. so, i was jus wondering if fellow rider face the same prob. anyway, my bike is a ver s.

kanna this problem on my old version s.

verdict from my mech was:

- front wheel bearing spoilt (rocking already)

- steering cone spoilt (makes funny sound)

- my stupid fat bar which the ex owner changed (no balancer)

- my engine guard was vibrating against my main frame.

[gwzc_mk2]

Yup, diy bleeding should be quite interesting. I've been reading up internet articles on the methods. Just kinda worried about those stories of brake fluid splashing onto the paintwork though.

 

 

 

I think I will bleed my brake fluid tomorrow or on tuesday. Hope the fluid doesnt fly about!

just bleeded all my brakes for $25 today.

i think its better to spend a little cash to get a good job done rather than spending to repair collateral damage.

[gwzc_mk2]

FP60..hope you ahve read the instruction correctly especially there is a clause in it that says preferrably use with another of their product. I recommend you sue biograded additive.

 

Fan..wah..how like that..either de-zng or remain zng-ed....LOL!...stupid previous owner.

 

went to my mech today.

the knocking is from my chain and spocket. so no choice and change a new one.

 

and the fan is really zng-ed. it on at 80 degrees instead of 90 plus for normal ones. so no choice but to keep it zng-ed lol...

[zq_87]

:

1) Do you have any engine guard or crash bar installed and what type?..can show pics"..both side please.

 

2) Park your bike and squat in front of it. Grab the two lower fork portion and push pull towards you a few times and tell if there is any mild rocking movement. It be better if you can somehow get your front wheel elevated to do this.

 

3) Sit on your bike now..side stand up..hands on handle and psuh forward hard a bit and let the bike move an inch or two..then brake suddenly. Now...is there any sound like a "kerk_Kork"?

 

Let us know the above first..there is still one final option which cannot be tested..but need to be done to solve the problem...that's engine mounting.

 

 

for 1st qnt, mine is a two pt crash guard i think, cnat get pic now. will try to get it up. for 2nd qnt is that, don really have a rocking movement leh. for 3rd qnt, no sound produce!

[zq_87]

kanna this problem on my old version s.

verdict from my mech was:

- front wheel bearing spoilt (rocking already)

- steering cone spoilt (makes funny sound)

- my stupid fat bar which the ex owner changed (no balancer)

- my engine guard was vibrating against my main frame.

 

the mech i went also said my steering cone goin to chui soon.

[wubefrub]

wah u bleed $25! how come strobe said shop quoted him $80?? strobe, better be careful bro...

 

just bleeded all my brakes for $25 today.

i think its better to spend a little cash to get a good job done rather than spending to repair collateral damage.

[hid_rid]

ola guys,

 

i have the same prob of slight vibration of handle bar but afte 30 mins of riding from work to home...my hand will be bit numb. the vibration also can be felt on the right side of leg rest and pillion leg rest only.

 

1) Do you have any engine guard or crash bar installed and what type? - no engine guard.

3) Sit on your bike now..side stand up..hands on handle and psuh forward hard a bit and let the bike move an inch or two..then brake suddenly. Now...is there any sound like a "kerk_Kork"? = Yes got a " kork " sound..

 

Riding Ver R

[zq_87]

 

the vibration also can be felt on the right side of leg rest and pillion leg rest only[/color].

 

 

 

same as me. vibration can be felt on the rite side of leg rest!

[Ah Pek]

the mech i went also said my steering cone goin to chui soon.

 

The other post..you said no "kork" sound but yet your mech asy steering cone want to kaput lioa...these two sympton actually contradict each other. Usually its worn or crack broken bearing in the cone steering bearing assembly that gives the sound. Anyway..the opnly other way to confirm this is to somehow find a way to elavate your front and swing your handle bar left and right. Grabe one end and swing with enough force to see it smoothly end the other way..if it does not and kind of like 'jerky' or stop short half way...cone bearing need to be change.

 

As for vibration after cone bearing change still exist...asked the mech to loosen all your engine mount bolts (big bolts that hold your engine to the bike main frame) and have them torque tighten. This can only be done with their compressed air box wrench.

[Ah Pek]

ola guys,

 

i have the same prob of slight vibration of handle bar but afte 30 mins of riding from work to home...my hand will be bit numb. the vibration also can be felt on the right side of leg rest and pillion leg rest only.

 

1) Do you have any engine guard or crash bar installed and what type? - no engine guard.

3) Sit on your bike now..side stand up..hands on handle and psuh forward hard a bit and let the bike move an inch or two..then brake suddenly. Now...is there any sound like a "kerk_Kork"? = Yes got a " kork " sound..

 

Riding Ver R

 

Great...easily to analyze and rough where the problem is from your answers.

 

the vibration also can be felt on the right side of leg rest and pillion leg rest only.

 

Since you got no crash_bar...do a torque retightening to all engine mount bolts. Not sure the previous owner has 'down' engine before...but the possibility is that there might be a loose bolt or even missing bolt after assembling back.

 

Yes got a " kork " sound..

 

Usually the sympton of cone bearing fair wear and tear. To confirm further, if you ahve a main stand..have the front wheel up and do the handle swing left and right test...suppose to be smooth in motion.

 

if after cone bearing changed and still got sound..check for loose bolts of the lower fork bracket clams (have to use a spanner to turn the bolt clockwise)..if ok..check your brakes assembly mounting. The last but least possible (bekuz you never mention the push/pull lower fork check)..could be wheel bearing fair wear and tear.

 

[Ah Pek]

wah u bleed $25! how come strobe said shop quoted him $80?? strobe, better be careful bro...

 

When bleeding..the MOST IMPORTANT thing is NEVER NEVER let all the hydraulic fluid (DOT 3/4) flows all the way down from the reservior till you see the hole and then start topping up. MUST always keep the fluid level above the hole as you relase the lock flow nut below while squeeezing the level.

 

The best and safest way is to go get a $0.65 cents syringe from any Pharmacy shop and a $0.35 cents aquarium type air pump tube and suck it out all the old and dirty fluid...then use free linen cloth..wipe and top up again. Then squeeze the level and go to the hose end at the caliper side...unlock the hose flow nipple nut (may want to use a tube to it and path it to a plastic back) to clear those fluid in the hose.

 

Keep repeating the process (each time locking before squeezing level again) till the reservoir top level drop or you see clean fluid (remember to top up fluid in the reservoir in the process when the level gets too low..must not expose the flow hole). Have plenty of water around to wash off immediately..hydraulic fluid is corrosive to paint work.

 

...pls pardon any typo errors..typical of me.

[gwzc_mk2]

wah u bleed $25! how come strobe said shop quoted him $80?? strobe, better be careful bro...

dunno leh. maybe different bikeshop different pricing lor. or the different brake fluid used? i using dot4 niah.

but then... i did a lot of things today so they might have given me a discount

[bakashi]

hi Guys,

Need some help & advice on the following queries...

 

Been outta the riding circle for quite some time so now quite lost where to get best bang for buck bike stuff...

 

1. Any comments on the FC of this S4 VS I'm riding?

Full tank about 15litre can hit 350-360km til reserve

Running on Esso 95

Is this consumption normal? Any way to improve it?

 

2. My rear shocks like gone liao. Hard and bumpy.

Any recommendation to go for?

- Servicing

- Change new one?

Whats the price range and where to do it?

 

3. Service Carb

Been long time since it's been done as the bike was passed to me by my elder Bro who went overseas.

So far have not done any major thing internally.

- Where is a good and reliable place to do so?

 

Thanks

[valente19]

hi, erm ah pek. ytd i told u about the brown stain. it is the dried up coolant. when i poured water over, it actually turn back green. quite amazing..

 

erm one more question, how do we know if our bike need to change timming chain and do a valve clearance?

 

just did mine overhual due to crack in engine head.. neglected my coolant..

engine head, timing chain and valve clearance..

it's not gonna be cheap..

remember do not neglect your coolant!

[stRobe]

But why do you need to do it?

 

Just out of interest, I guess. Most articles say brakes should be bled about once a year. Mine I dunno how long has the fluid been in there. Own the bike for almost a year already and I dont think the shop which sold me the bike would have bothered to bleed the brakes before selling.

 

just bleeded all my brakes for $25 today.

i think its better to spend a little cash to get a good job done rather than spending to repair collateral damage.

 

wah u bleed $25! how come strobe said shop quoted him $80?? strobe, better be careful bro...

 

Maybe I heard wrongly.. hahaha. But most shops seem like unwilling to bleed brakes. Last time I rode a kup, the shop dont even want to quote a price for bleeding. He just said no need to bleed..

[zq_87]

The other post..you said no "kork" sound but yet your mech asy steering cone want to kaput lioa...these two sympton actually contradict each other. Usually its worn or crack broken bearing in the cone steering bearing assembly that gives the sound. Anyway..the opnly other way to confirm this is to somehow find a way to elavate your front and swing your handle bar left and right. Grabe one end and swing with enough force to see it smoothly end the other way..if it does not and kind of like 'jerky' or stop short half way...cone bearing need to be change.

 

As for vibration after cone bearing change still exist...asked the mech to loosen all your engine mount bolts (big bolts that hold your engine to the bike main frame) and have them torque tighten. This can only be done with their compressed air box wrench.

 

 

tks man. will try ask mech to tighten engine mount bolt. will let ya all noe if it will stop the vibration.

[stRobe]

Ok. So i have bled and changed my rear brake fluid. Overall, it was a simple job. I used the method suggested in the Hands On section; i.e, filling the collection container with some fresh fluid (supposedly to create a 'one-way flow).

 

What delayed me was getting the right spanner size (size 8) and buying a tube which was too small to fit the nipple.

 

Some problems:

1) Somehow, those tiny air bubbles kept dlowing upwards from the nipple into the tube. So i wasnt sure whether all the bubbles were gone. Are the air bubbles supposed to flow INTO the collection container??

 

This seems quite illogical, since the container is 'below'.. as we know, air bubbles will always float upwards.

 

2) When I tightened the nut, a few big bubbles popped up from the nipple. I thought all the big bubbles were gone already!!

 

 

 

Tomorrow, I will bleed my front brakes. I need advice on whether is it correct to bleed one line first, then the other. Or must I bleed both at the same time?

 

 

 

And finally, here's the beautiful picture of the old fluid..

[Ah Pek]

Just out of interest, I guess. Most articles say brakes should be bled about once a year. Mine I dunno how long has the fluid been in there. Own the bike for almost a year already and I dont think the shop which sold me the bike would have bothered to bleed the brakes before selling.

 

Last time I rode a kup, the shop dont even want to quote a price for bleeding. He just said no need to bleed..

 

I would have said the same thing..nothing wrong..don't touch it.

 

Nothing breaks...don't disturb it. If out of interest..just do it when you need to..just a tot.

[Hondaman]

wah 125 pages already...

[wubefrub]

any of you was at simpang bedok just now? parked inside, near the 89.7 shop there. i saw this VerS with alien headlights. the paintwork like got brown/white/something like that. i parked my black VerS beside you.

 

anyway, NICE BIKE! damn shiny! i look at your bike, i feel paiseh sia look at my bike..i need to do a MAJOR cosmetic job sia..heh heh..

[Burnout69]

hey ah pek.. sleep oreadi ah?? btw did my grounding juz now by ahpek.. thanxx bro btw... So far got improve on the engine response... 160km at 9000rpm, sound better.... dat was quite impressive.. Got the 2 brothers juz now.. like the seller said.. fit for vtec 1 & above..

[wubefrub]

guys. i got headache.

 

my coe ending jan 09. i sayang my bike. plus, i still paying installment.

 

i dun really understand this coe thing arh. i only hear people say got bidding lah, this lah, that lah. can bid $1 not? i seriously dunno sia. i hear market now 1k++ i sell backside times over also cannot get that amount sia.

 

how? how? how? mati sia...

[Ah Pek]

hi Guys,

Need some help & advice on the following queries...

 

Been outta the riding circle for quite some time so now quite lost where to get best bang for buck bike stuff...

 

1. Any comments on the FC of this S4 VS I'm riding?

Full tank about 15litre can hit 350-360km til reserve

Running on Esso 95

Is this consumption normal? Any way to improve it?

 

2. My rear shocks like gone liao. Hard and bumpy.

Any recommendation to go for?

- Servicing

- Change new one?

Whats the price range and where to do it?

 

3. Service Carb

Been long time since it's been done as the bike was passed to me by my elder Bro who went overseas.

So far have not done any major thing internally.

- Where is a good and reliable place to do so?

 

Thanks

 

Q1. Very subjective isssue and no such thing as a fixed good fc.

 

Q2. Have a total refurbishing at Teck Thye with better rebound rate spacer included for $240. Check the thread here for address.

 

3. Nothing broken..don't touch..nothing done internaly means there is something wrong..things mind end up worst and you still won't know. Anyway...carbs tunning is standard at $40, wash carbs (never never necessary these days) at $80. The only thing you wanna do about carbs is change the inlet manifold and slider niddle.

[Ah Pek]

wah 125 pages already...

 

Wah...and heard you doing part time to mod your S400 bike to S750 huh?

[Ah Pek]

hey ah pek.. sleep oreadi ah?? btw did my grounding juz now by ahpek.. thanxx bro btw... So far got improve on the engine response... 160km at 9000rpm, sound better.... dat was quite impressive.. Got the 2 brothers juz now.. can fit into the hole but not the bolt hole is abt 0.3-0.5cm bigger la.. like the seller said.. fit for vtec 1 & above.. hope to get my refund by by him today.. haizz

 

IMHO...really..you don't need it lah. Save up and get an original siew_siew one or at least one good 2nd one that fits ride. Making that bracket is to suit is just not ride and why should you spend more $$$s?