[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[Ah Pek]

hahakzz.. lesson learned i guess.. no refund.. or not can end up in brawl.. so lets play safe & still learned.. haahakzz.. did my servicing lah ah pek.. my engine damn dirty man.. & the coolant was muddy brown... changed to all dat u recommended... WooHoo like crazy horse man inside the engine.. the chief mechanic also said dat its a posibilty dat the previous owner remove the themostat... hmmm still pondering wer isit at...

 

"previous owner remove the themostat... "...another idiot in the making.

[stRobe]

post removed

[Burnout69]

"previous owner remove the themostat... "...another idiot in the making.

 

so bad leh u..... whos the idiot btw?? heheh:bounce:

[smiley73]

"previous owner remove the themostat... "...another idiot in the making.

 

what will happen if remove themostat ?

[xiaowen]

what will happen if remove themostat ?

 

if i am not wrong. themostat is an equipment that run the riadiator. without it, the raidiator will be cold through the entire journey meaning it is not running at all. it is something like a switch to a fan. when ur engine hit certain temperature, the fan will turn on automatically. hence hot air will be given off through your riadiator area.

[Ah Pek]

what will happen if remove themostat ?

 

The reason a thermostat is incorporated into the system is to close-off coolant flow to the radiator during engine warm-up to help temperatures get above 175°F more quickly. The maximum flow of coolant to the radiator occurs when the thermostat is heated to 175°F or more, the minimum flow occurs when the bike is at ambient temperature.

 

If you remove the thermostat the coolant flow is essentially controlled by the item with the smallest flow area connected to the radiator and the warm-up time is increased.

 

The most important think here is..what is the best coolant temperature for the best performance.

 

Generally...most motorcycle engine cooling system is designed to keep the engine coolant temperature at a specific operating point, 180°F and that is 82.22° in Celsuis and that's about what S4 is when moving at a constant highway speed on a hot 90°F day.

 

This is the operating condition that is used to size the radiator, water pump flow rate and hose diameters. The overall design is based on using a 50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol and distilled water.

 

An engine should be at its design operating temperature to make good power. Operate at too low a temperature and the engine is less efficient and has less power.

 

Higher temperatures are more thermodynamically efficient, but too high..you exceed the thermal expansion design basis of critical components and raise fuel octane requirements that can cause engine knock.

 

Not sure about Revo S4 as it uses ECU/EFI for it may use engine management incorporating a coolant temperature sensor to retard the engine ignition timing enough to compensate for any increase in octane requirement when operating temperatures increase.

 

Read from the expert report that many tests has been run to establish optimum running temp for a hi-rpm bikes and found that (185F) 85ºC is perfect. Over that, they lose horsepower fairly quickly (down about 15 HP at 100ºC) and below that the same (down about 6 HP at 65ºC).

 

So..make sure your fan works and the thermostat is there for a reason...otherwise, the Honda would have save millions in $s by not incorporating it for you.

 

I know that some ppl has taken it off and replace it with just flow thru hose tubing..especially in race bike..but ist their bike and they believe in doing so..but that does not mean that its good for our everyday S4 and the many years for it we want it to last.

 

Much like ppl like to lower their front frk and jacked up the back suspension with "posh"..much to the effectiveness that the centrifugal force is loss..but what can one say if they find that it looks good and function 'well' for them. To me..its an idiot in the making.

[wubefrub]

idiot after idiot. stock rulzzzz!

[Ah Pek]

Some ppl from around and AMK is having la_kopee at Teck Ghee Square tonite at about 9pm..feel free to drop by Rain?..forget it.

[stRobe]

I was unable to loosen the bleed nipple for the front brake. After finding that the nut was beginning to get a little round, i went to an ubi motorshop to see how the mech would open the nut. Of course i didnt tell him i had been trying to diy but the nut was stuck; i just said i wanted to change brake fluid.

 

Cheap ($10) and a little fast.. in fact too fast for my liking. My heart was in my mouth as i watched the fella bleed my brakes. The botte of fluid, i dunno how long it had been exposed to air. 1L bottle.. how often do bikes come to bleed their brakes?? I believe the air bubbles had not been properly removed. When press th brake lever, felt the same as before.

 

Unsatisfied, I went home and diy the front brakes, using a fresh bottle of shell fluid.

[Ah Pek]

Btw, anybody intending to change their brake fluid? I still have a 3/4 bottle left (opened for 1 day). Enough for your rear brake at least. Otherwise, i'll thwor it a way. PM me if you want.

 

Keep it..you need it one day. No shelf life..as long as its air tight kept in room temperature.

[Dkoh]

So..make sure your fan works and the thermostat is there for a reason...otherwise, the Honda would have save millions in $s by not incorporating it for you.

 

So any way to know whether the radiator fan is not working???

 

For me i had to ride my bike in the noon at a hi-rpm speed for about 15-20mins and when i stop the bike then the fan will turn on. Then i knows the fan is working...

 

Anyone care to share how u guys test whether the radiator fan is working?

 

:thumb:

[Ah Pek]

So..make sure your fan works and the thermostat is there for a reason...otherwise, the Honda would have save millions in $s by not incorporating it for you.

 

So any way to know whether the radiator fan is not working???

 

For me i had to ride my bike in the noon at a hi-rpm speed for about 15-20mins and when i stop the bike then the fan will turn on. Then i knows the fan is working...

 

Anyone care to share how u guys test whether the radiator fan is working?

 

:thumb:

 

The fan should cut on from 90°C to 102°C..there may be different in cut on and off of the fan switch. If your fan cuts on too often..that mean that your operating temperature from 80°C to 82°C is rising too fast and these are likely due to poor eo (plenty of recycled eo pack in..shhhh..!) and coolant mixture ratio errors.

 

To test if the fan is working is not as important as to test the cut on switch which is MOST IMPORTANT. If your fan is working but not the switch..what's the point.

 

Anyway...to test two things at one time..just earth the cut on/off switch.

[smiley73]

2nite got kopi session huh

[Ah Pek]

2nite got kopi session huh

 

Organise by AMKS4 S4Vtec ...but anyone can come lah...vtec or non vtec..Revo oso got...LOL! Never organise..everynite I oso have kopee and dinner there..LOL! Free after shift work drop by lor.

[stRobe]

Keep it..you need it one day. No shelf life..as long as its air tight kept in room temperature.

 

lol ok.. Cos almost all websites say brake fluid cannot be stored for long after the seal has been broken. Due to it absorbing water, etc

[Burnout69]

tonite got kopi session ah? not 2morow meh?

[Ah Pek]

tonite got kopi session ah? not 2morow meh?

 

Alamak...susah la_u...heeee...Wednesday don't spell as "Thursday".

[MrQuan]

lol ok.. Cos almost all websites say brake fluid cannot be stored for long after the seal has been broken. Due to it absorbing water, etc

 

i got mine 2 yrs ago .. still in my cupboard .. but donno if still usuable .. lol

[dumbnut]

Symptoms:

 

1) Will crank, slowly

2) Lights aren't dim (eliminates the mag-coil)

3) rides as per normal.

 

I'm thinking it's the battery. Any other possible suggestions?

 

I don't want to push start my bike tomorrow, had enough of push starting it today!

[summerrain]

aiyoh... have been busy these 2 weeks. today speedometer cable broke.

 

anyone knows how much a cable costs? I probably will get from HKL.. cos living in Queenstown area...

 

thanks

[bakashi]

Symptoms:

 

1) Will crank, slowly

2) Lights aren't dim (eliminates the mag-coil)

3) rides as per normal.

 

I'm thinking it's the battery. Any other possible suggestions?

 

I don't want to push start my bike tomorrow, had enough of push starting it today!

 

rectifier?

[bakashi]

Much like ppl like to lower their front frk and jacked up the back suspension with "posh"..much to the effectiveness that the centrifugal force is loss..but what can one say if they find that it looks good and function 'well' for them. To me..its an idiot in the making.

 

i rem the old days... motor siao riding LC kia or RXZ will jack their back like "scorpion"... bend the handle bar like those "chao kway tiao" stall people... "cut" the oil tank can see thru... enuff tank space to pump $5 petrol nia... hahhaa

 

Went Teck Thye earlier at 8pm to fix up the shocks for my S4.

$240... done in 1 hour. Uncle said 2 hours... when I went back after 1 hour it was done. He said evening time no one to distract him.. can do things smoother and faster

[wubefrub]

oh man..my fc dropped alot! usually 10litres would last me 270-290km, but last night, i filled 10litres after only 225km..

 

what can i do? wash carb? relax on the throttle?

[Ah Pek]

oh man..my fc dropped alot! usually 10litres would last me 270-290km, but last night, i filled 10litres after only 225km..

 

what can i do? wash carb? relax on the throttle?

 

Nothing is consistent my friend. You can't monitor your fc like that.

 

You have to understand each day is different..even the food you eat are different...even if its mee_Ro_Boose!...the palte may be the same, but not the amount of strands of yello noodle in it or the ingredient in the me-ro-boose quah. even the same underwear you wear from yesterday would not give you the same in smell as of freshly wash/dried of yesterday...LOL! Ok...what I'm saying is its never the same everytime you ride, the EXACT path of a route you travel, trafiic flow and how you regulate with them..the list goes on..so in short...so is your fc result.

 

For 10 litres you get 225km (taking your worst)..divide that by 2..say you are consistence that period of time..that's 112.5 km for the next 10 litres. 112.5 divide by 8 parts as full tank is only 18 litres and that gives you a figure of 14.0625 each part. Take this figure X 5 (as reserve is 3 litres) and you get 70.3125..now add this to your 225 and you get a total of 295.3125 km for 15 litres...so?...okay what. Not sure how you ride this time round though..but it will be different everytime in fc result anyway.

 

Btw...if you want to get a more 'accurate' fc..go to the same kiosk..use same pump and remember the level you filled up in you tank. Take the total value when it hit reserve (have to switch over to reserve) and divide by the litres value of the fuel time. The resultant figure is you fc in km per litre...have fun

[dumbnut]

Update:

 

Bike started as if nothing happened the day before this morning. Did abit of backtracking, then i realized, i idled the bike whilst waiting for my ma'am to get some stuff from 7-11 with the hazards on.

 

That got me thinking, something is definitely gonna give way soon. And again, i suspect it's the battery. Any other suggestions?

 

 

cheers!