[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[Baphomet]

hey guys,can i check wat is the problem if my handle bar will auto sway to left side when i let off both my hands

 

haha..

 

moving or stationary? lol

[Darkness19]

haha..

 

moving or stationary? lol

 

when the bike is moving

[Baphomet]

when the bike is moving

 

lol...okok

 

i had the same problem b4.. can be many factors...uneven wear of front tyres? forks too soft, need to go service? or most probably is steering cone need change liao.

 

for me is steering cone..went to planet, ah peng told me nvm one, dun need change den i nvr change lor..

 

up to you la. u dun ride handless lah..haha

[Baphomet]

wei bros...just now when i was charging my rear tyre, i saw a cut on the tyre...its in the thread...know what i mean? ..tested...no leak...but like this need change tyre or not? tyre still relatively new...

[Darkness19]

lol...okok

 

i had the same problem b4.. can be many factors...uneven wear of front tyres? forks too soft, need to go service? or most probably is steering cone need change liao.

 

for me is steering cone..went to planet, ah peng told me nvm one, dun need change den i nvr change lor..

 

up to you la. u dun ride handless lah..haha

 

oiccc,my should be steering cone

[Darkness19]

wei bros...just now when i was charging my rear tyre, i saw a cut on the tyre...its in the thread...know what i mean? ..tested...no leak...but like this need change tyre or not? tyre still relatively new...

 

no leak then it is ok,even gt leak also can patch back,dun need to change tire if ur tire is new

[Baphomet]

no leak then it is ok,even gt leak also can patch back,dun need to change tire if ur tire is new

 

icic..thx...just worried cause the cut is in the thread mah...not on th ethread...so less clearance.dun wan it to fail me when i corner...lol

 

will go bikeshop check it out as soon as they open...haiz...hate cny...

[norishimu]

same here.. i hv yet to repair my brake light.. it's on all the time.. should b the limit switch fault..

[pufferfis]

yep...sorry to say but he's right....china or taiwan brand condensors dont last....at first fast...den become faster2......like train.....den so fast untill...oh oh no more blink2....how much ur signals lights bro?....u diy eh?...i been wondering how to solder the t10 connector to those led things..or even better....t5...

 

go change to led signal lights but don't change ur condensors sure blink like strobe light....no pun intended

 

 

Actually am trying to slow down my blink rate as I using LED signals but the china brand condensors don't seem to last a week on my bike....

[ballzz78]

Hi there guys...

 

I'm kinda new here even though I've been riding bike for more than 10 years..

 

The vibe that I got from this forum, especially in the Honda Super 400 is neat..

 

Been riding a Honda Super 400 Version S. And old but reliable bike... Been through thick and thin with me..

 

The worse was having a bad accident in JB last year. Went under an express bus on the way to Danga Bay.. A very bad accident.

 

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v88/shred5/DSCF5229.jpg

 

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v88/shred5/DSCF5231.jpg

 

Got a one week MC.. Made police report in both JB and Spore but like no use..

 

Anyway.. the accident thaught me a lot of stuffs.. Be patient..

[Darkness19]

Hi there guys...

 

I'm kinda new here even though I've been riding bike for more than 10 years..

 

The vibe that I got from this forum, especially in the Honda Super 400 is neat..

 

Been riding a Honda Super 400 Version S. And old but reliable bike... Been through thick and thin with me..

 

The worse was having a bad accident in JB last year. Went under an express bus on the way to Danga Bay.. A very bad accident.

 

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v88/shred5/DSCF5229.jpg

 

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v88/shred5/DSCF5231.jpg

 

Got a one week MC.. Made police report in both JB and Spore but like no use..

 

Anyway.. the accident thaught me a lot of stuffs.. Be patient..

 

bro,i hope tat u r fine nw

[Ah Pek]

wei bros...just now when i was charging my rear tyre, i saw a cut on the tyre...its in the thread...know what i mean? ..tested...no leak...but like this need change tyre or not? tyre still relatively new...

 

No need..if mech say must change..you find him using your tyre for himself...LOL! As long as its not adeep cut on the tyre side wall. Take it as an 'extra' thread like lor

[Ah Pek]

Gentlemen..like to have your attention. Its good that you all open up your right side cover (the triangular shape plastic cover steadfast by two allen key both) and check your rectifier connector (the milky white plastic semi-transparent one with wire harness that plug into your rectifier (almost square cast metal piece with heat sink fins) black connector).

 

If you see there is brownish or tainted with blackish marks, it is because of 'burning' from heat from the alternator 3 phase input. As these are hot wires and thru period of use, the plastic connector gets harden and brittle over the years thru normal wear and tear. Further uses in this status and the on going hot heat from the three yellow wire from alternator would at one point caused "shorting" and thus result in burn rectifier, dead battery and worst case, damage the alternator coil. Even so that no total melt down of the connector at this stage, the burned plastic has resistive and capacitive effects and causes bad DC output to battery charging performance.

 

The issue here is having the connector replace...the wire harness to this connector is a branch of the main core wire harness of the whole bike. If any of you have this problem, I have improvise a remedy kit for this thus save the problem of having to have the whole bike hardness replace. Take note especially bike above 5 years old. The last few days, a few case has been resolved this way and is as good as new.

 

It started when someone just four days ago called to help with his battery problem. The battery was flat dead.

Managed to push start the bike but fuel to engine sounded like drowning and unable to rev evenly.

 

New battery was rerplaced and bike started well. Bike voltmeter shown 12 volts and started well nd engine fired and ran clean. However, reving above 3.5k rpm, no sign of charging. Further confirmed with proper alternator tested and found problem with charging circuit.

 

Rectifier was replaced and charging was just a tad better but very poor. This was caused by internal melting plastic of the alternator connector to the new rectifier.

 

So guys..if your rectifier while connector is showing sign of burnout have the connector changed. Can pm me for the improvised kit if you want. You can also DIY by cutting the 5 wires and extending it with new female blade type connectors..all five of them to the rectifier..but make sure connection is proper and solid otherwise..big problem like main fuse blowing and electrical fire.

 

Please do not pm me with further questions on this..unless your connector is bad and cannot get your own spare replacement. The concern is have it remedy before battery, rectifier or alternator coli burns out and cost $$$s.

[smiley73]

Hi there guys...

 

I'm kinda new here even though I've been riding bike for more than 10 years..

 

The vibe that I got from this forum, especially in the Honda Super 400 is neat..

 

Been riding a Honda Super 400 Version S. And old but reliable bike... Been through thick and thin with me..

 

The worse was having a bad accident in JB last year. Went under an express bus on the way to Danga Bay.. A very bad accident.

 

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v88/shred5/DSCF5229.jpg

 

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v88/shred5/DSCF5231.jpg

 

Got a one week MC.. Made police report in both JB and Spore but like no use..

 

Anyway.. the accident thaught me a lot of stuffs.. Be patient..

 

 

look bad maybe need to check frame

[dumbnut]

..big problem like main fuse blowing and electrical fire.

 

 

I just had my main fuse blow on me a couple of days back. I was waiting at a traffic light when the bike just went dead on me

 

Yet to check the connectors, but I've been wondering what was caused the fuse to blow. Any idea where to get the connectors?

 

BTW, I think u mean the left sideboard (If you're straddling the bike lah)

 

 

 

Cheers!

[winim]

Thanks Ah pek for helping out and provided me with your experiences.

The X1-R is way smooth and lesser vibration. I simply love it.

 

The tour was successful, do check out the Vara125 thread and see the pictures.

[Ah Pek]

I just had my main fuse blow on me a couple of days back. I was waiting at a traffic light when the bike just went dead on me

 

Yet to check the connectors, but I've been wondering what was caused the fuse to blow. Any idea where to get the connectors?

 

BTW, I think u mean the left sideboard (If you're straddling the bike lah)

 

 

 

Cheers!

 

LOL!...thanks for correcting me mannn!..must be using my right side of my brain too much liao...my bad. Yes, its on the left.

 

The main fuse is a green colour coded one meaning a 30 amp and that's a lot of current! It can blow for only one reason..something somewhere in the red live wire is being overloaded and exceeding 30 amps.and that is what fuse are for. If you have a 40 amps..what ever component causes it would have been burned out by now. So to say..there is a "short".

 

Yes, the rectifier connector can cause that especially when the red and green blade inside the connector (rectifier) is shorted due to the insulation of the plastic connector melting out. It may not be permernant. The other VERY GREAT possibility is the connector at the "solenoid" (the red fuse hard plastic cover) where the main live source is (I have no solution for this now except to savage from a scrape bike..otherwise, you have to rewire and DIY which I did before. Also check your H4 socket connector for burnout.

 

As for the rectifier connector, can pm me.

[Ah Pek]

Thanks Ah pek for helping out and provided me with your experiences.

The X1-R is way smooth and lesser vibration. I simply love it.

 

The tour was successful, do check out the Vara125 thread and see the pictures.

 

Great! ...will do.

[meowmeow]

hi guys..

ive juz acquired a FP plate V-S on October..

pretty reliable and simple to ride and maintain bike for a lady like mi,

however good things dun lasts,got into a hit & run crash by a car while reversing(i believed) @ my mscp in the wee hours.. *sad*.. so guys take note of where are the 'danger' spots when parking @ a mscp so dun let wad unfortunate things dat happened to mi repeat on anione here..

 

Apparently my baby was hit on the left side b4 the huge force crashes the bike to fall to its right side,thus my bike suffered a big dent on both sides of my tank *sad*, handlebar gone,meter gone,rear pillion stand gone(RHS),exhaust dented,tail suffered abit of minor cracks,2point engine caseguard dented inwards *sad sad*..lets stop the damage list going on b4 i cant go on animore.

 

Can i seek ani experts here,is there anione who succeeded attempting installing speedometer of similiar size compared to the oem set example from RXZ etc..?? I'll gladly appreciate if there's pics to be seen so roughly i noe wad u guys are talking abt,the terms etc ya..

 

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c166/tigerjoe23/DSC01191.jpg

 

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c166/tigerjoe23/DSC01188.jpg

 

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c166/tigerjoe23/DSC01187.jpg

 

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c166/tigerjoe23/DSC01186.jpg

 

Thus im oso looking for a 2nd hand tankbra to cover up my tank for the time being..if there's anione selling pls lemme noe ya..

[Ah Pek]

hi guys..

ive juz acquired a FP plate V-S on October..

pretty reliable and simple to ride and maintain bike for a lady like mi,

however good things dun lasts,got into a hit & run crash by a car while reversing(i believed) @ my mscp in the wee hours.. *sad*.. so guys take note of where are the 'danger' spots when parking @ a mscp so dun let wad unfortunate things dat happened to mi repeat on anione here..

 

Apparently my baby was hit on the left side b4 the huge force crashes the bike to fall to its right side,thus my bike suffered a big dent on both sides of my tank *sad*, handlebar gone,meter gone,rear pillion stand gone(RHS),exhaust dented,tail suffered abit of minor cracks,2point engine caseguard dented inwards *sad sad*..lets stop the damage list going on b4 i cant go on animore.

 

Can i seek ani experts here,is there anione who succeeded attempting installing speedometer of similiar size compared to the oem set example from RXZ etc..?? I'll gladly appreciate if there's pics to be seen so roughly i noe wad u guys are talking abt,the terms etc ya..

 

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c166/tigerjoe23/DSC01191.jpg

 

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c166/tigerjoe23/DSC01188.jpg

 

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c166/tigerjoe23/DSC01187.jpg

 

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c166/tigerjoe23/DSC01186.jpg

 

Thus im oso looking for a 2nd hand tankbra to cover up my tank for the time being..if there's anione selling pls lemme noe ya..

 

OMG..my sympathy!

 

For pic image 1..have to look at it physically, looks minor and may be a pry job should get it done back in line..as for the pillion foot rest, no choice but to replace. Can buy cheaper ones from LAB as long as the mounting fits.

 

As for the meter, need not to replace a whole set or save $s by replacing that of other models. The meter is made up of serveral parts. Can't tell what is damage from your image. If the internal part like the duals are okay, just have the outer covers and internal white housing replace.

 

Tank...sighhh..need a panel beating and respray job. Handle bar may be able to bend back with a water pipe but its not that expensive to have a new one. The concern is the cone bearing after that.

 

Pm me if you think I can be of help...but not tank bra.

[meowmeow]

thks ah pek..do u noes how to repair the meter itself..??So far ive seen the console is ok..oni the right bowl and the white internal is spoilt..can help and roughly how much to repair..??Im quoted abt $200 to repair by bikeshop which i tink is exp >.

[Ah Pek]

thks ah pek..do u noes how to repair the meter itself..??So far ive seen the console is ok..oni the right bowl and the white internal is spoilt..can help and roughly how much to repair..??Im quoted abt $200 to repair by bikeshop which i tink is exp >.

 

Meter repair?..no problem. Bike shop price for a job like that is about there. but its the quality of the job...nothing beats DIY_ing and moreover you learn.

 

Normally mototiam don't stock these type of spare and they have to send someone down town to get it. After that, they would 'rush' thru the job as there are other simpler job like servicing bike (change eo and filter..etc.) which they can do more and the return for the day is higher. Doing the meter takes much much longer.

 

You can get the white internal housing chassis for about $50 to $56 at FJT (Rowell road) or Chong Aik (Desker road) or may be LAB. Chiong one is only $25 to $30 and work just as well (done two already). The chrome plastic cover is just comestic and original caused about $35 to $60 each (cnan't quite recall) but if you can get chiong one at LAB, it'as $10 only (this was way back but everytime out of stock). Hope your covers mounting screws are still there on it though. Cost?..pay what you deem reasonable...LOL.

 

You decide. My contact is 90670020 to discuss further.

[WRfreak]

Does Anybody noe How much does it cost for a not original radiator...

and how much does a big radiator cost.. for Ver S.. and where to get it ?

and issit gd to have a big radiator.. big raditor = Big Fan = more cooler engine?

[Ah Pek]

Does Anybody noe How much does it cost for a not original radiator...

and how much does a big radiator cost.. for Ver S.. and where to get it ?

and issit gd to have a big radiator.. big raditor = Big Fan = more cooler engine?

 

Oh yah..size does matters..the bigger the better but make sure the mounting can fit without obstruction..may have to make special brackets.

 

There is someone selling a whole brand new radiator set slightle cheaper than a new one on the sles thread..go check it out.

[meowmeow]

Meter repair?..no problem. Bike shop price for a job like that is about there. but its the quality of the job...nothing beats DIY_ing and moreover you learn.

 

Normally mototiam don't stock these type of spare and they have to send someone down town to get it. After that, they would 'rush' thru the job as there are other simpler job like servicing bike (change eo and filter..etc.) which they can do more and the return for the day is higher. Doing the meter takes much much longer.

 

You can get the white internal housing chassis for about $50 to $56 at FJT (Rowell road) or Chong Aik (Desker road) or may be LAB. Chiong one is only $25 to $30 and work just as well (done two already). The chrome plastic cover is just comestic and original caused about $35 to $60 each (cnan't quite recall) but if you can get chiong one at LAB, it'as $10 only (this was way back but everytime out of stock). Hope your covers mounting screws are still there on it though. Cost?..pay what you deem reasonable...LOL.

 

You decide. My contact is 90670020 to discuss further.

 

 

ya ah pek thks for the help,it definitely beats paying $200 instead.

Perhaps u might wanna help mi to look/see the physical meter itself b4 we noe which is spoilt thus replacing the parts,as im staying near u..