[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[fi_east]

Hi Guys...thought I duplicate this post here that I posted at another thread in case you guys don't visit other threads or same question be asked one day here. Just read for info lah..

 

 

 

IMHO - Vtec and non Vtec are in a way 'different' (not that far off) as far as gears assembly in the internal crank case is concern..this said, its referring to their gear ratio. The primary gear are of the same number of teeth however the back is different by two. From what I understand, this increment for the Vtecs are that, they are running on the 8 valves under 6k rpm generally where as non Vtecs are all 16 valves under the given same rpm.

 

My take is that the increase in the number of teeth for Vtec is for 'compensation' for more power drive as its power only by eight valve..thus somewhat equates in performance to that of non Vtecs powered by 16 valves in the lower rpm range.

 

The above said, does it improved FC?..guess that should not be the question to asked but rather a gear ratio thingy for the way these two different bike's engine works. But in truth, I believe that this eight valves does not have as much inertial push using 8 valves unless it has a bigger back sprocket for improved momentum prior for each gear changes (all way to 6 under non vtec mode) so that it level in performance overall with its non Vtec counterpart.

 

In short as far as gear ration for these two variation of model, having a 42 teeth on a Vtec would loose on acceleration and does not perform for good FC but it be good at long gear drag to red line and long distance straights for top speed. As for non Vtec, the increment of gears by 2 to make it 44 with a 16 valves operating power house engine, pick up would definitely be greatly increase and reasonably good drags to red line and top end speed on straights. The disadvantage noteable here would be harsh engine braking.

 

Just xtra info..having 45 or 46 teeth for non Vtech, likely overdrive for the first 4 gears out of the 6 would happened unless chain etra slack are use as a 'compensation' to prevent overdrive.

 

The above posted is only my understanding of how logically things works..and why Vtec (8 valves in non vtec mode) has 44 and non Vtec (16 thru out rpm range) has 42.

 

does this mean ver s run better on 44 teeth sprocket?, or 42 is better?, thanks

[fx110]

does this mean ver s run better on 44 teeth sprocket?, or 42 is better?, thanks

 

42 great for touring/long distance

 

44 easily wheelie:cheeky:

[Ah Pek]

does this mean ver s run better on 44 teeth sprocket?, or 42 is better?, thanks

 

Its not a question of which is better..it more of what you want for your riding style. Fx110 has answered your question. One additional example..if you have 46 teeth behind, your pick up super fast but no top speed...hope you understand better by this example.

[Ah Pek]

thanks ah pek for the advices.

 

the 'farting' is not loud,but just continuous..

esp at low gear 1 and two when trying to drag..and seemed dragging..

gear 3 and above is fine.

 

 

 

 

Could be your low end advance timing not synchronise with plugs firing. If this is the case, have o get an experience mech check your advance timing.

[Ah Pek]

hi,im not sure whats backfire..would you mind explaining?

and are there any harm to it?how would you recommend i deal with it?

thanks.

 

anyway,for me,its like acceleration not smooth..

seemed like something stuck in the pipe and air didnt come out smoothly from pipe.

 

 

From Wikipedia :

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------.

 

A Back-fire or backfire is an explosion produced by a running internal combustion engine that occurs in the intake or exhaust system rather than inside the combustion chamber. An explosion in the inlet manifold, carburetor/throttle body or air cleaner of an internal combustion engine will typically occur when the intake valves are not shut prior to fuel combustion.[1] The same term is used when unburned fuel or hydrocarbons are ignited somewhere in the exhaust system. A visible flame may momentarily shoot out of the exhaust pipe. Either condition causes an objectionable popping noise, together with possible loss of power and forward motion.

 

Explanation

 

Backfire in an automobile engine typically results from various malfunctions related to the air to fuel ratio. Backfiring can occur in carbureted engines that are running lean where the air-fuel mixture has insufficient fuel and whenever the timing is too advanced. As the engine runs leaner or if there is less time for the fuel to burn in the combustion chamber, there is a tendency for incomplete combustion. The condition that causes this is a misfire. The result of a misfire or incomplete combustion is that unburned fuel or flammable hydrocarbons are delivered to the exhaust manifold where it may ignite unpredictably. Another backfire situation occurs when the engine is running rich (with excess fuel) and there is incomplete combustion during the Otto cycle, with similar results.

 

 

When starting an engine, timing that is too advanced will fire the spark plug before the intake valve is closed. The flame front will travel back in to the intake manifold, igniting all of that air and fuel as well. The resulting explosion then travels out of the carburetor and air cleaner. A common air filter will allow the gases to escape, but will block the flame front. On many small marine engines, no air filter is used, but a screen is placed over the intake of the carburetor as a flame arrestor to prevent these flames from escaping the intake, and potentially igniting fuel, or fuel vapors in the enclosed sump or bilge of the boat and causing a fire or explosion. Improperly adjusted carburetors that create a lean condition during acceleration can cause the air fuel mixture to burn so slowly, that combustion is still taking place during the exhaust stroke, and even when the intake valve opens. The flame front can then travel up the intake and cause a backfire. In this situation it is conceivable that there is a backfire occurring in the intake manifold and exhaust manifold simultaneously.

 

Causes

 

Exhaust system backfires occur in engines that have an emission system malfunction, like an air injection system diverter valve problem, an exhaust leak, or when the catalytic converter has been removed. In some high-performance vehicles, when a driver shifts up and lets off the accelerator, the engine has a moment of running rich. This causes an incomplete burn which causes the fumes to explode in the exhaust system along with an audible clacking sound. However this condition is a result of working smog equipment, and is unlikely to cause any damage.

A fuel injected engine may backfire if an intake leak is present (causing the engine to run lean), or a fuel injection component such as an air-flow sensor is defective.

Common causes of backfires are:

 

• Poor or unregulated engine timing is often a cause of intake backfires, but can also be responsible for exhaust backfires
  
• Improper wiring in the ignition can also lead to timing issues and backfires
  
• Low fuel pressure, clogged fuel filters, and weak fuel pumps could cause a severe lean air-to-fuel ratio during fuel injection
  
• Missing or damaged catalytic converter can result in backfires out the tailpipe
  

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

If your case is pipe related, your jetting has to be setup up and to match your pipe, correct and most accurate air/fuel tuning is using a DYNO equipment. Stock exhaust from header to muffler (can) should have no such problem with stock jetting.

Edited July 22, 2009 by Ah Pek

[Guest akm_inferno]

Its a coolant radiator cap...can get from LAB, they are all the same except that his price is very affordable. Tell him its for S4 (allmodel same).

 

 

http://www.SiteVacuum.com/publisher/GoogleSearchIconShadow.gifhttp://www.SiteVacuum.com/publisher/SuperSearchIconShadow.gif

 

ah pek bro.. i've been monitoring the bike this few days ler.. so far no sight of any coolant leaking from anywhere.. so is it still the radiator cap? cuz i noticed the thing only on the first day straight after coming back from yr place.. now no more ler.. btw, if i buy the cap ler.. then ownself change or bring shop? will kanna charge labour?

 

anyways ah pek bro and all super4 bro.. how much is the average price for the coolant radiator cap? jus to make sure i dun kanna chop..

 

thanks to ah pek bro n all super4 bro in advance..

[Guest akm_inferno]

hey bro ur engine block leaking coolant also ah. how long u maintain @ 180?

 

erm.. i dun think so leii bro.. n i hope not too.. cuz that time i notice the coolant spill want at the right side of the bike.. near the place yr foot will usually touch the floor.. so i dun think is engine block ba.. if not will be nearer to the bike lyk under portion of something right? correct me if im wrong..

 

maintain @180 for not very long la.. i think at most 2 mins..? cuz my meter max show 180.. which make me a lil paranoid la.. somemore that day i juz buy slipper then tie the plastic to the bracket.. scared fly off.. that's why i go straighten my back to see if slipper in place.. when my helmet came off.. lols..

[Ah Pek]

ah pek bro.. i've been monitoring the bike this few days ler.. so far no sight of any coolant leaking from anywhere.. so is it still the radiator cap? cuz i noticed the thing only on the first day straight after coming back from yr place.. now no more ler.. btw, if i buy the cap ler.. then ownself change or bring shop? will kanna charge labour?

 

anyways ah pek bro and all super4 bro.. how much is the average price for the coolant radiator cap? jus to make sure i dun kanna chop..

 

thanks to ah pek bro n all super4 bro in advance..

 

Bike shop all got but don't buy from them unless you want them to install for you...otherwise, but from LAB..below $15 to DIY..just remove your seat >> remove the two screw holding your tank >> remove fuel and vaccum tube (left hand side under tank) away from tank and remove fuel guage electrical connector on right side under tank >> lift tank and then install your new readiator cab. If your coolant is not running low fast..your old cap should be ok.

[Guest akm_inferno]

Bike shop all got but don't buy from them unless you want them to install for you...otherwise, but from LAB..below $15 to DIY..just remove your seat >> remove the two screw holding your tank >> remove fuel and vaccum tube (left hand side under tank) away from tank and remove fuel guage electrical connector on right side under tank >> lift tank and then install your new readiator cab. If your coolant is not running low fast..your old cap should be ok.

 

OK THANKS ah pek bro! the other day i juz checked n it's still at the "upper level" u showed me.. usually how often do people top up coolant ar? so i hav a rough estimate to know that my coolant is running low "fast".. btw juz to feed back bro.. my bike is much much cooler now.. no more warm or hot feeling from the tank at all..

[kifakw]

Great!!

 

Beside of this, I red a post in a Taiwan forum comparing acceralation and power of stock super4, from best to better: non-vtech > vtech1 > vtech 2 > vtech3. The writer suggesting that cause by stricker and stricker environmental regulation world wide.

 

Donno how true is this. Any one had experience/compare power and acceralation of vtechs and non vtech before?

Beside, I also doubious about how good these environmental changes on the bikes. We know that non-vtech is better in fuel consumption, how come the more environmental friendly vtechs have lower FC ?

 

I believe BHP for most variants of the CB400 are the same.

 

It's the usability of the torque graph factored by the gear ratios, technology and other miscellaneous thingy inside the engine that gives you the strong G.

 

Put a stock new version S vs a vtec3, their top speed will be the same. It's only how fast each individual variant reaches their top speed due to the usability torque curve.

 

If you are having frequent backfiring like those WRX, EVO. It's good what, people'd know your presence when you arrived lol. But you're wasting petrol though

[Ah Pek]

OK THANKS ah pek bro! the other day i juz checked n it's still at the "upper level" u showed me.. usually how often do people top up coolant ar? so i hav a rough estimate to know that my coolant is running low "fast".. btw juz to feed back bro.. my bike is much much cooler now.. no more warm or hot feeling from the tank at all..

 

 

It all depend all..if you ride around heavy start/stop traffic, then check more often like one month once...other than that may be 3-5 months once. If falls below level..just top up:sian: lah.

[Mizarahi]

Thinking of getting a S4.

What is a fair price for say a ver S renewed coe till 2018?

 

Thanks.

[hanxx]

From Wikipedia :

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------.

 

A Back-fire or backfire is an explosion produced by a running internal combustion engine that occurs in the intake or exhaust system rather than inside the combustion chamber. An explosion in the inlet manifold, carburetor/throttle body or air cleaner of an internal combustion engine will typically occur when the intake valves are not shut prior to fuel combustion.[1] The same term is used when unburned fuel or hydrocarbons are ignited somewhere in the exhaust system. A visible flame may momentarily shoot out of the exhaust pipe. Either condition causes an objectionable popping noise, together with possible loss of power and forward motion.

 

Explanation

 

Backfire in an automobile engine typically results from various malfunctions related to the air to fuel ratio. Backfiring can occur in carbureted engines that are running lean where the air-fuel mixture has insufficient fuel and whenever the timing is too advanced. As the engine runs leaner or if there is less time for the fuel to burn in the combustion chamber, there is a tendency for incomplete combustion. The condition that causes this is a misfire. The result of a misfire or incomplete combustion is that unburned fuel or flammable hydrocarbons are delivered to the exhaust manifold where it may ignite unpredictably. Another backfire situation occurs when the engine is running rich (with excess fuel) and there is incomplete combustion during the Otto cycle, with similar results.

 

 

When starting an engine, timing that is too advanced will fire the spark plug before the intake valve is closed. The flame front will travel back in to the intake manifold, igniting all of that air and fuel as well. The resulting explosion then travels out of the carburetor and air cleaner. A common air filter will allow the gases to escape, but will block the flame front. On many small marine engines, no air filter is used, but a screen is placed over the intake of the carburetor as a flame arrestor to prevent these flames from escaping the intake, and potentially igniting fuel, or fuel vapors in the enclosed sump or bilge of the boat and causing a fire or explosion. Improperly adjusted carburetors that create a lean condition during acceleration can cause the air fuel mixture to burn so slowly, that combustion is still taking place during the exhaust stroke, and even when the intake valve opens. The flame front can then travel up the intake and cause a backfire. In this situation it is conceivable that there is a backfire occurring in the intake manifold and exhaust manifold simultaneously.

 

Causes

 

Exhaust system backfires occur in engines that have an emission system malfunction, like an air injection system diverter valve problem, an exhaust leak, or when the catalytic converter has been removed. In some high-performance vehicles, when a driver shifts up and lets off the accelerator, the engine has a moment of running rich. This causes an incomplete burn which causes the fumes to explode in the exhaust system along with an audible clacking sound. However this condition is a result of working smog equipment, and is unlikely to cause any damage.

A fuel injected engine may backfire if an intake leak is present (causing the engine to run lean), or a fuel injection component such as an air-flow sensor is defective.

Common causes of backfires are:

 

• Poor or unregulated engine timing is often a cause of intake backfires, but can also be responsible for exhaust backfires
  
• Improper wiring in the ignition can also lead to timing issues and backfires
  
• Low fuel pressure, clogged fuel filters, and weak fuel pumps could cause a severe lean air-to-fuel ratio during fuel injection
  
• Missing or damaged catalytic converter can result in backfires out the tailpipe
  

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

If your case is pipe related, your jetting has to be setup up and to match your pipe, correct and most accurate air/fuel tuning is using a DYNO equipment. Stock exhaust from header to muffler (can) should have no such problem with stock jetting.

 

WAH ah pek, thks for wiki for me..

could my poor fc due to back-firing?

 

anyway,this sunday if i want do grounding,isit okay?

mine already got grounding - u told me the other time just add few wires more. how much will those costs me?so i can prepare.haha.

 

thanks again:angel:

[hanxx]

Thinking of getting a S4.

What is a fair price for say a ver S renewed coe till 2018?

 

Thanks.

 

i think most importantly is the condition of the bike?since ver s is quite a old bike - wear and tear over time. ( i must agree;still a hardy bike though)

 

depending on:

you wan to buy a cheap bike - BAD condition (you spend a lot in the end)

OR

you pay a better price - GOOD condition (wont have to pay much for wear and tear replacement)

 

From what i see, sbf ppl selling ver s range 2k to 3.5k - so ya, cant be way off as long it under this range.

 

anyway,just my 2 cents - still, CONDITION MOST IMPT FACTOR not PRICE.

[Mizarahi]

i think most importantly is the condition of the bike?since ver s is quite a old bike - wear and tear over time. ( i must agree;still a hardy bike though)

 

depending on:

you wan to buy a cheap bike - BAD condition (you spend a lot in the end)

OR

you pay a better price - GOOD condition (wont have to pay much for wear and tear replacement)

 

From what i see, sbf ppl selling ver s range 2k to 3.5k - so ya, cant be way off as long it under this range.

 

anyway,just my 2 cents - still, CONDITION MOST IMPT FACTOR not PRICE.

 

Thanks for your advice.

I am a layman. Quite impossible to know condition

Any workshop that can send bike for inspection?

I know for cars can send to those AA/Vicom to inspect before commit.

[Ah Pek]

WAH ah pek, thks for wiki for me..

could my poor fc due to back-firing?

 

anyway,this sunday if i want do grounding,isit okay?

mine already got grounding - u told me the other time just add few wires more. how much will those costs me?so i can prepare.haha.

 

thanks again:angel:

 

Have to check and see what your current grounding is like. Most importantly, the termination is very important especially material type used. I have yet to see anyone does it like mine.

[hanxx]

Have to check and see what your current grounding is like. Most importantly, the termination is very important especially material type used. I have yet to see anyone does it like mine.

 

alright thanks ah pek, cya this sunday.

[ruzty]

hi any1 givin away or selling spec3 tail for VerS ....???

[Ianie]

wah who so kind giving i also want..

[aaa3237]

Hi fellow riders:

I cracked my radiator in a skid, and fixed it by using epoxy glue.

Although the radiator show no sign of leaking, I think the long term solution should be replaced it.

Where can I find a second hand radiator?

Appreciate you help.

[tim17]

hi guys... just wondering.. the whole set of ignition switch will roughly cost how much??

[Ah Pek]

hi guys... just wondering.. the whole set of ignition switch will roughly cost how much??

 

$65 to $85...depending on made. MIJ is $85..the rest MIC. MUST SPECIFIED model and version when buying.

[Ah Pek]

Hi fellow riders:

I cracked my radiator in a skid, and fixed it by using epoxy glue.

Although the radiator show no sign of leaking, I think the long term solution should be replaced it.

Where can I find a second hand radiator?

Appreciate you help.

 

If you are using high temperature steel epoxy mixs..that's not necessary...they are meant for such application. You can even drill or file them after at least 2 hours curing though they set in 2-4 mins. Done one too many already.

 

Go have your radiator rebuild by those doing radiator refurbishing for cars..can't remember where but they can rebuild or even modified your radiator.

[Ah Pek]

Hello ppl...just to let you all know that my presence at Tech Ghee Ko_pi_tiam on most Sunday morning will not be a regular thing anymore as I be too busy with graphics design works and t-shirt printing. If there is anything that I can be of help or you need to have and do..either pm me or sms me. If its a question that requires me to have long sms answer, plse call..otherwise, I won't return call or reply..my fingers are to big for the hndphone dial keys..heeee...x3!

[tim17]

:cry

$65 to $85...depending on made. MIJ is $85..the rest MIC. MUST SPECIFIED model and version when buying.

 

huh.... but i don't know is it my key or the ignition le... or whatever its called...

 

slot in my key... having diff to twist... have to try a lot lot lot of times..