[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[mesa]

Hi S4 peeps,

 

My bike is sick liao.. I suspect is front brake lockin pins stuck and refuse to go back to original position after braking. When engine off, stationary.. bike is very difficult to push front n back. Also the brake disc very hot after I ride. sometimes the problem not that bad, still can ride.. but if i press front brakes too hard, then bike reach can only move up to like 40km.. and rpm to 3k cannot go up anymore. FC drop like mad, from 22.5 per litre to 19.5!

 

Asked my fren, he says go change the brake pads + bleed the brake fluid. He also say my camshaft spring loose liao.. got tiak tiak sound very loud, ask me to change. What are the major problems that will snowball due to this loose spring?

Anyone here got such probs with brakes n camshaft spring? Thanks`

[kifakw]

Is your disc rotors bent thus the brake pads are always in contact with the rotors?

 

Perhaps it's just some slight adjustment on your calipers/brake line, let ah pek advise you on that.

 

Think positive, at least your brakes are working. Imagine travelling 100km/h and your brakes fail on you.

 

Is the tiak tiak sound from the engine block a forever thingy? If it last only while the engine is cold, it's normal. Due to the shim or something.

[Ah Pek]

Hi S4 peeps,

 

My bike is sick liao.. I suspect is front brake lockin pins stuck and refuse to go back to original position after braking. When engine off, stationary.. bike is very difficult to push front n back. Also the brake disc very hot after I ride. sometimes the problem not that bad, still can ride.. but if i press front brakes too hard, then bike reach can only move up to like 40km.. and rpm to 3k cannot go up anymore. FC drop like mad, from 22.5 per litre to 19.5!

 

Asked my fren, he says go change the brake pads + bleed the brake fluid. He also say my camshaft spring loose liao.. got tiak tiak sound very loud, ask me to change. What are the major problems that will snowball due to this loose spring?

Anyone here got such probs with brakes n camshaft spring? Thanks`

 

Thank Kifakw for your confidence in me :0)

 

Heh Mesa..who is ur friend r?..what is camshaft spring?..never heard of it leh and does it makes that kind of sound?. Has he had this same problem before and ride a S4? Tiak..tiak sound can come from a anything inside your engine. I won't say anything now till I hear it amd moreover, like Kifakw said..iszit random or occassional or just this recently? How loud is loud and does that sound goes away when rpm pick up speed?

 

As for your brakes..why need to change pad if the pad is still up to mark for use? I suggest you go for a caliper clean up servicing and clear what ever is causing the piston in the caliper to be partially jammed..likely over time braking pad dust mixed and harden with water. Also your brake master pump may have problem. You need someone to do it..can pm me.

[mesa]

Thank Kifakw for your confidence in me :0)

 

Heh Mesa..who is ur friend r?..what is camshaft spring?..never heard of it leh and does it makes that kind of sound?. Has he had this same problem before and ride a S4? Tiak..tiak sound can come from a anything inside your engine. I won't say anything now till I hear it amd moreover, like Kifakw said..iszit random or occassional or just this recently? How loud is loud and does that sound goes away when rpm pick up speed?

 

As for your brakes..why need to change pad if the pad is still up to mark for use? I suggest you go for a caliper clean up servicing and clear what ever is causing the piston in the caliper to be partially jammed..likely over time braking pad dust mixed and harden with water. Also your brake master pump may have problem. You need someone to do it..can pm me.

 

Ah Pek, u know how to do a caliper clean up servicing for brakes? Maybe I take my bike over let u access then I see need to bring to shop or not. Now still ridable condition.. Anyway what do u tink about steel brake hose? If I need to change em, should I change to good quality steel hose or its a waste of $$..

[Ah Pek]

Ah Pek, u know how to do a caliper clean up servicing for brakes? Maybe I take my bike over let u access then I see need to bring to shop or not. Now still ridable condition.. Anyway what do u tink about steel brake hose? If I need to change em, should I change to good quality steel hose or its a waste of $$..

 

its a workshop job thingy..go to see Ah Fook at blk 5302 AMK Ind Park 2 #01-295. Call me when you are going...cheap cheap service job lah.

 

Wif regards to steel brake hose, they rae better such that they don't expand under hight pressure as compare to the store 'rubber' ones..but that few millie split second does not make much difference lah..just that they won't crak or burst when it gets old like rubber material. If I were you, I would wait till the original one runs out of commission and then change. But if you want, buy it yourself and bring it tot he workshop with you..only labour charge incur.

[ahdon]

Ah pek, engine not leaking so far.

will continue to monitor and keep you updated.

[Metal_Heart]

Why is it that from 1-4k rpm feel sluggish, then suddenly shoots forward after 4.5krpm?

Is it the tuning of the bike?

[ralliArt]

ah pek... my 3rd tank on nano still same fc full tank 260+km. going to add in x1r tomoro n monitor again. i suspect it might b the tuning is set for the previous mod end can. mayb it running too rich now tat i m back on the original endcan. can u advise if i should go do tuning/balancing of the carbs?

 

i duno if its my riding style or wat.. but i seem to find the original end can getting louder by the day.. :cheeky:

[smoothie]

hi guys, anyone replaced the rubber tube for petrol below the fuel tank? there's 2 rubber tubes on the left side of the bike connected to the fuel on/off/res switch unit - i'm referring to the one with larger diameter.

 

i probably squeezed it too hard with pliers while removing fuel tank the past few times & now there's a bit of hole where petrol leaks out near the hose head when the engine is running.

[bam-bino]

hi bros... juz wanna ask whether ani1 hav heard of KONI shock absorbers? and does ani1 have any idea where to get them and hw much will it cost? tanx in advance.... =)

[Ah Pek]

ah pek... my 3rd tank on nano still same fc full tank 260+km. going to add in x1r tomoro n monitor again. i suspect it might b the tuning is set for the previous mod end can. mayb it running too rich now tat i m back on the original endcan. can u advise if i should go do tuning/balancing of the carbs?

 

i duno if its my riding style or wat.. but i seem to find the original end can getting louder by the day.. :cheeky:

 

When it comes to fc..always very subjective thingy and too many factors. Yah..add the X-1R and see if there is further improven.

 

Btw..what kind of route you take when travelling to work back and fore? Is the rubber coupling from your carbs to the inlet port been change before or is it harden or any sign of worn cracks?

 

Can't say much of the exchaust but its the last thing I will suspect..could be having larger jetting in your carbs by previous owner/owners.

[Ah Pek]

hi guys, anyone replaced the rubber tube for petrol below the fuel tank? there's 2 rubber tubes on the left side of the bike connected to the fuel on/off/res switch unit - i'm referring to the one with larger diameter.

 

i probably squeezed it too hard with pliers while removing fuel tank the past few times & now there's a bit of hole where petrol leaks out near the hose head when the engine is running.

 

Don't replace that fuel line urself...its very very difficult to install a new one especially the link between the carbs channel. What I suggest is cut off the small portion of the damage part and get a short one (same diameter) from auto vechicle spare shop and a smaller one to act as a 'plug' to join them. Not too long..the length and diameter of the fuel tube is caculated for the amount and velocity flow of fuel to the carbs...+/- 5% should be ok.

[Ah Pek]

hi bros... juz wanna ask whether ani1 hav heard of KONI shock absorbers? and does ani1 have any idea where to get them and hw much will it cost? tanx in advance.... =)

 

Koni used to be replaceable and rebuildable suspension strut for cars in the old days..not sure about now..but for bike..not sure if any but I believe so there is but never popular here. I have seen one on a bike before but it could be just a sticker on it

 

Do a google search and see if they make it for bikes.

[Ah Pek]

Why is it that from 1-4k rpm feel sluggish, then suddenly shoots forward after 4.5krpm?

Is it the tuning of the bike?

 

When was your bike last serviced and is there any mod in the carbs that you may know off?

[Ah Pek]

Ah pek, engine not leaking so far.

will continue to monitor and keep you updated.

 

Sound great and hope for the best it does not anymore.

[bam-bino]

tanx for the info ah pek... =)

[Metal_Heart]

When was your bike last serviced and is there any mod in the carbs that you may know off?

 

I just got the bike last Friday, told the shop to service the bike. Don't know whether they service properly. I am not aware of any mods in the carbs. How much does it cost to service the bike?

[mesa]

its a workshop job thingy..go to see Ah Fook at blk 5302 AMK Ind Park 2 #01-295. Call me when you are going...cheap cheap service job lah.

 

Wif regards to steel brake hose, they rae better such that they don't expand under hight pressure as compare to the store 'rubber' ones..but that few millie split second does not make much difference lah..just that they won't crak or burst when it gets old like rubber material. If I were you, I would wait till the original one runs out of commission and then change. But if you want, buy it yourself and bring it tot he workshop with you..only labour charge incur.

 

Oic.. Thanks for the info Ah Pek.

 

Looks like I bring my bike go workshop clean the brake calipers and also change brake fluid + bleed the brake hose. Hope they dun con me and ask me to change everything. Grr.. hate to be carrot head.

 

Oh yar, I went to clarify with my fren liao, its not camshaft spring, i blurr and noob... sorri sorri.. its cam chain tensioner that is loose and cause the tiak tiak sound. this loose chain tensioner can cause any future damage?

[Ah Pek]

I just got the bike last Friday, told the shop to service the bike. Don't know whether they service properly. I am not aware of any mods in the carbs. How much does it cost to service the bike?

 

Pm me to do it up for you if you are interested. Will provide you what need to be done on a look see first situation. Btw..when they were servcing it, were u present like watching them change eo etc...?

[Ah Pek]

Oic.. Thanks for the info Ah Pek.

 

Looks like I bring my bike go workshop clean the brake calipers and also change brake fluid + bleed the brake hose. Hope they dun con me and ask me to change everything. Grr.. hate to be carrot head.

 

Oh yar, I went to clarify with my fren liao, its not camshaft spring, i blurr and noob... sorri sorri.. its cam chain tensioner that is loose and cause the tiak tiak sound. this loose chain tensioner can cause any future damage?

 

If its the cam chain tensioner..its likely the tensioner rubber slippers even the cam chain itself and yes, damage can be bad. Cam chain slack noise doesn't go tiak...x3!..it goes kack...x3! and go off as the rpm pick up speed. Also..the kack sound can be that of a bad corn rod! The tiak sound could just be one of the shim off set and this is normal and will go away after sometime..up to a week or more. If its doesn't...go to temple and ask for 4d number

[smoothie]

Why is it that from 1-4k rpm feel sluggish, then suddenly shoots forward after 4.5krpm?

Is it the tuning of the bike?

 

actually i'm not sure if it's a common thing - my bike is sluggish till after 3k rpm too.

[smoothie]

Don't replace that fuel line urself...its very very difficult to install a new one especially the link between the carbs channel. What I suggest is cut off the small portion of the damage part and get a short one (same diameter) from auto vechicle spare shop and a smaller one to act as a 'plug' to join them. Not too long..the length and diameter of the fuel tube is caculated for the amount and velocity flow of fuel to the carbs...+/- 5% should be ok.

 

thanks for the info! actually wld it be a good idea to use smth like your heat shrink tube to patch up the leak? there's no visible hole on the fuel line; just a small crack only.

 

on a seperate note, can you let me know where to get good quality heat shrink tubes like yours? i wanna use to splash-proof some wire connections instead of using scotch tape.

[Metal_Heart]

actually i'm not sure if it's a common thing - my bike is sluggish till after 3k rpm too.

 

I don't think its common, normally it's mean to be smooth anywhere on the revband. I suspect the carb need to be serviced

[lfc131]

AhPek.. my 4th tank on nano seems bad.. i only get 280click before reserve.. It felt like thirsty for fuel but when I refuel its only $25.. normally its $33+/-..

[ralliArt]

When it comes to fc..always very subjective thingy and too many factors. Yah..add the X-1R and see if there is further improven.

 

Btw..what kind of route you take when travelling to work back and fore? Is the rubber coupling from your carbs to the inlet port been change before or is it harden or any sign of worn cracks?

 

Can't say much of the exchaust but its the last thing I will suspect..could be having larger jetting in your carbs by previous owner/owners.

 

i everyday standard from bishan there go bradell cte all the way shoot until end of sle kranji lor.back same route. always highway 80% of the time. mayb i drop by tis weekend if u guys meeting up and u help mi check out the rubber couplings, not too sure wat signs to look out for.

 

after changing the water pump until now.. the area under pump where the bolt for changing engine oil there always have some engine oil. it doesnt seem leaking a lot. no drips on the floor at all when ever i park my bike. just that its always wet with engine oil when ever i wipe the bolt area. duno if its coming from the water pump area or the bolt itself. cos remember when changing my water pump that time got a lot of engine oil gush out.