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Posted
Yes..fully sync eo are better than mineral as far as molecules that holds the bond for lube is more longer and does not break so easily (reliable). If you are tight on budget, mineral oil is okay..just be sure you don't do red line too often or race the engine..and remember to change on the recommended mileage (2k-3k depending on riding style).

 

Why not asked him to try mine eo? Pm me if he wants..no regret..real performer.:sian:

 

yes, already told him, bud...am your sales man- hahaha

thanks...will let you know once he decides.

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Posted

Is it just me or does non-vtec S4 sounds different from vtec models? Using the stock exhaust of course. And not tong ones.

 

non-vtec sounds abit more louder then the vtecs. Or issit my ear "open vtec" and koyak already? :cheeky::cheeky:

“Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.†- Jeremy Clarkson

 

http://images54.fotki.com/v104/photos/3/1279813/10237619/IMG_0625-vi.jpg[

Posted
Normally when cone bearing gone bad..it does not happened the way you describe in your case and it may not be your bearing is damage but the lower locking ring nut (castle type) loose and the grease melted by heat as some of it leaks out.

 

To test your steering cone bearing status..level up your front wheel and swing the handle bar left to right and vice versa. If it's smoothly goes from one end swing to the other, its ok.

 

To lock the castle ring nut, get a long flat head screw right and seat the end of it against thone of the castle ring nut 'slot' and tap the screw driver with your hand..the ring nut will turn upwards depending on which direction and will tighten and close up the bearings.

 

After that...seat on ur bike and move forward in 1st gear and brake hard...if there is no knocking noise, the cone bearing is ok. If you want to change your bearing..go to Ah Fook at Blk 5032 AMK Ave 3 Industrial Park 2 No.295..tell him I send you, should be $90 or so only.

 

Thanks Ah Pek. But I don;t understand about the thone and the castle part. :(

Posted

ah pek, would you be free this weekend so that i can get an oil change? i'm so sorry its last minute request but this is the only time i'm free. Havent been riding my bike for long distances because i have not changed the eo for a long time. a bit scared that i will damage anything haha:cheeky:

Posted
Thanks Ah Pek. But I don;t understand about the thone and the castle part. :(

 

 

Look under the top big nut (size 31 chrome in colour for tighten cone beaarimg from top)..where the cone bearing is. There is a castle like (ring with squarish slot) ring nut that suppose to tighten the cone bearing.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
ah pek, would you be free this weekend so that i can get an oil change? i'm so sorry its last minute request but this is the only time i'm free. Havent been riding my bike for long distances because i have not changed the eo for a long time. a bit scared that i will damage anything haha:cheeky:

 

Can come Saturday at 1.30pm or Sunday morning after 10am.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Yes..fully sync eo are better than mineral as far as molecules that holds the bond for lube is more longer and does not break so easily (reliable). If you are tight on budget, mineral oil is okay..just be sure you don't do red line too often or race the engine..and remember to change on the recommended mileage (2k-3k depending on riding style).

 

Why not asked him to try mine eo? Pm me if he wants..no regret..real performer.:sian:

 

 

Use Ah Pek's EO blend. Confirm no regret! the only word that i can think of, to describe it is 'shiok!' which not even in the dictionary!!

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c99/fluzzy_flu/Junkies/bff.jpg
Posted (edited)

Ah Pek, i'm having this problem.

 

There's this metal grinding sound coming from the rotor(it seems to be coming from the rotor), during certain degree of the rotation of the back wheel using main stand. (When my engine is off and bike is on main stand)

 

Changed the wheel bearings, sprocket bearings, checked the brake callipers, checked the brake pads, checked the rotor. Everything is okay.

 

It's definitely not the famous s4 chain sound as it sounds like meal grinding sound. What could be the reason or i'm just being too paranoid?

Edited by kifakw

Regards,

kifakw

 

Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car

and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.

Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall,

torque is how far you take the wall with you.

Posted
hi guys,

my left hand starts to feel cramped when riding...when do we know that the clutch cable is ready to be replaced?

thanks.

 

When the lower adjustment allowance for the clutch lever adjuster srew thread is all use it. Don't think you understand. ..free pop by.:sian:

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Ah Pek, i'm having this problem.

 

There's this metal grinding sound coming from the rotor(it seems to be coming from the rotor), during certain degree of the rotation of the back wheel using main stand. (When my engine is off and bike is on main stand)

 

Changed the wheel bearings, sprocket bearings, checked the brake callipers, checked the brake pads, checked the rotor. Everything is okay.

 

It's definitely not the famous s4 chain sound as it sounds like meal grinding sound. What could be the reason or i'm just being too paranoid?

 

Looks like you did a pretty good job checking most of the stuff and I do hope they are all correct.

 

What I can think of now and that you have not check is your chain adjustment alignment locks and markers. Make sure that both left and right chain alignment and tensioner are of the correct same setting reading. Most motorbike shop when they tension your chain..they just ar_gart ar_gart.

 

To check..seat in line behind your back wheel while its rotating. Checking for wheel rotation alignment. If at certain point before a complete 360 degreed comeplete turn u see the wheel a bit 'slant'..means your front and back sprocket is out of aligment and causing your chain to gringd against the teeth. Oso look out for shining marks on your chain rollers (the link across that sits on the the sprocket gears). If its shinning..its wear and worn from sprocket and wheel on swing arm alignment.

 

Rectify by redoing..lossening your chain tensioner first by loosening your size 24 size axle bolt nut..then adjust the chain tensioner usnit for both side. Make sure the markers are evenly aligned in "counts" marking for both side...check for chain tension too.:sian:

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Guest akm_inferno
Posted
i went to VICOM Bukit Batok.

 

haha.. :D i went for inspection liao.. LOL. the inspector quite young.. bery super "hardworking".. haha.. the few bikes before me check si bei jialat.. everything oso check.. den my turn, haven check anything oso tell me straight yr headlight cnt pass.. LOL.. den i explain to him ver R light super hard to find.. last tym buy from shop they oso say sure can pass all that.. den talk2 about class 2 bike.. talk why dun wan upgrade.. talk about cb1000 n cb750.. den finally.. PASS... :D wooohoooo~~ :p

Posted

Hi experts, I just recently bought a Ver S. Power is cool.....I got few questions to ask. if someone can enlighten me it would be great.

1) handle bar vibrates in high speed (70,80km onwards) and i need to hold it with two hand with quite tight. is it normal?

2) My speedometer, tachometer, indicators back light are not working, How much roughly cost to change it

3) How much the new ignition set with key. Cos its quite difficult to lock, unlock and on-off

4) Ver S, speedometer can change to spec 1 or 3 speedo meter?

5) last what is a front and rear tyre pressure?

 

Thanks in advance

MaxSYM 400i (May 2013 onward)

Super Four (Jun 2010 - Present)

Yamaha YBR 125 (Feb 2009 - Jun 2010)

Posted

1. try installing fork brace. think u can get it for 70-80$ from ah boy. reduces the vibration quite abit.

 

2. I would recommend to change the speedo meter. ah boy $180. chiong full meter set. i used it for quite sometime. quality not very good. but ok lah.

 

3 about $400-500. for orginal honda ignition set.

 

4. Nope verison S is different.

 

5. 240KPA FRONT. 280 back.

 

been riding verison S for 1 year with this set up. seems quite ok to me.

Wise Men say,only fools rush in.

Posted

And. Have u change ur e.o? would advice u to drop by ah pek to change e.o + x1r. i think ur power more cool.

Wise Men say,only fools rush in.

Posted
And. Have u change ur e.o? would advice u to drop by ah pek to change e.o + x1r. i think ur power more cool.

 

:cheeky:.....thanks for the thumbs up Ianie..really appreciate :)

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
1. try installing fork brace. think u can get it for 70-80$ from ah boy. reduces the vibration quite abit.

 

2. I would recommend to change the speedo meter. ah boy $180. chiong full meter set. i used it for quite sometime. quality not very good. but ok lah.

 

3 about $400-500. for orginal honda ignition set.

 

4. Nope verison S is different.

 

5. 240KPA FRONT. 280 back.

 

been riding verison S for 1 year with this set up. seems quite ok to me.

 

 

very fast response. Thanks a lot bro.

MaxSYM 400i (May 2013 onward)

Super Four (Jun 2010 - Present)

Yamaha YBR 125 (Feb 2009 - Jun 2010)

Posted
And. Have u change ur e.o? would advice u to drop by ah pek to change e.o + x1r. i think ur power more cool.

 

nano is a good to have also . especially when our bike is old . will make it way more cool

Guest akm_inferno
Posted

hi bros.. rear tyre metz size 160/60 should pump how many kPa ar? riding me + pillion... juz now read ragavan post n realise all along i pumping 150/70 with 250kPa so no idea how much to pump for this new tyres.. hehe~ :D

 

thanks for all the help in advance!! :)

Posted
ask u guys something..in terms of top..ver s and vtec 3..which is fastest?

 

same i guess:angel:

Posted
ask u guys something..in terms of top..ver s and vtec 3..which is fastest?

 

Either one uses my eo and grounding will be the fastest and if both have the eo and grounding, the one with a V3 EPS will be even faster than the other. :angel:

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
And. Have u change ur e.o? would advice u to drop by ah pek to change e.o + x1r. i think ur power more cool.

 

very fast response. Thanks a lot bro.

 

Either one uses my eo and grounding will be the fastest and if both have the eo and grounding, the one with a V3 EPS will be even faster than the other. :angel:

 

been wanting to drop by but havent found myself the time to do so uh. shall find the time and drop you a pm in advance before dropping by soon kay ah pek. really interested in trying out your stuff =)

Fear ends where FAITH begins.

Posted
Either one uses my eo and grounding will be the fastest and if both have the eo and grounding, the one with a V3 EPS will be even faster than the other. :angel:

 

wanna book a date wif u to do grounding.....:angel:

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MY RIDES

RXZ135 botoL powered / WR200 FMF powered - RXZ D CLUB

SUPER4 VTEC2 Micron powered - S4M

R1 '07 LE Akrapovic powered

HAYABUSA '99 Scorpion powered - SgBusaRiderz

SUPER4 PB1 / 125z Rockstar

RXZ135 Japan-modeL 6-speed lemang powered

 

carousell.com/shasalem.biz :D

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