<Info> Silverwing 400cc / 600cc Tech Corner

MaIkEr · January 7, 2013

SWT: installing custom dynamic's EDFR relay for LED signals.

Edited January 7, 2013 by MaIkEr

bigcow · January 9, 2013

Named Herman staying in Blk 204 Pasir Ris S(510204). HP: 98783570. Age: Between 35 to 40. Working at Loyang Eagles.

Nick: HerNab

Wanted to buy my friend's Silverwing as his SYM has been passed on to his father in law.

Kept low-balling the price from $8500 to $7000. Telling me his budget was between $5k to $7k depending on condition. When price was dealed at $7800, i asked for deposit of only between $200 to $500.

He then named himself as a gentleman, ask us to trust him. My friend trusted him, so didn't take any deposit.

We arranged to transfer the bike within this few days as he needed the bike asap. I then asked him to get his insurance before we arrange to meet at LTA.

An hour after we left, he msg me to give him some time to try other bikes.

I then replied him asking, "Gentleman, where is the trust?"

He replied "Forgive me."

Then the following day msg me that he don't want to buy the Silverwing.

scoobydoo · January 18, 2013

Stainless Steel = Rustless Steel???

Have you ever asked yourself this question... "why did my stainless steel bracket rust?"

A common myth about stainless steel is that is not affected by corrosion (commonly referred to as rust).

There are no shortage of sales persons proclaiming that stainless steel products will not rust. but what is the truth then?

Ask around and you'll find yea and nay believers to the rustless claim.

While misleading, the phenomenal success of stainless steel's anti-corrosion properties makes this common belief understandable.

If stainless steel doesn't rust or corrode, then what are these?

http://www.bikeexif.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/nsu-motorcycle-2.jpg

http://rufusswan.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/p10100031.jpg?w=450&h=337

http://beniciaherald.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/rusty-bike-racks.jpg

http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/02/e2/4f/79/melia-las-dunas.jpg

http://img.ehowcdn.com/article-new/ehow/images/a06/66/ul/clean-off-stainless-steel-stovetop-800x800.jpg

What is stainless steel?

In metallurgy, stainless steel, also known as inox steel or inox from French "inoxydable", is defined as a steel alloy with a minimum of 10.5% to 11% chromium content by mass.

The major components of stainless steel are: iron, chromium, carbon, nickel, molybdenum and small quantities of other metals. On the basis of its crystalline structure, stainless steel can be broadly categorized into four different types. It is to be noted that iron is always the main constituent and the rest of the chemical substances are present in varying proportions in each type of stainless steel. However, in any of them, the chromium content of should not go below 11 percent. This is because; the rich content of chromium in stainless steel makes it highly corrosion resistant. Here, their chemical composition has been described in detail.

Austenitic Stainless Steel

More than seventy percent of the total stainless steel produced belongs to this category. It has at least 16 percent of chromium, 0.15 percent of carbon and a good amount of nickel and manganese along with iron. Such a composition enables it to maintain its distinct structure at any given temperature, from the cryogenic to its melting point. It is used in various cryogenic applications due to presence of nickel that prevents the brittleness of steel. Sometimes, elements like molybdenum or titanium are added in small amounts to bring about changes in certain properties to make it suitable for any specific application that requires corrosion resistance at extremely high temperatures. Usually, this steel does not show any magnetic properties.

Ferritic Stainless Steel

This stainless steel is mostly made of chromium, molybdenum and small amounts of nickel, carbon aluminium, titanium. Some of the types also include lead as a component. The chromium content lies between 10.5 to 27 percent. The main characteristics of these steels is that they have the power to resist corrosion even at high temperatures. This is possible on account of the large quantity of chromium present in it. However, its durability is comparatively lesser than austenitic steel. This type of steel possesses magnetic properties.

Duplex Stainless Steel

This can be described as a mixture of equal quantities of austenite and ferrite stainless steels. When used for commercial purposes, these elements can at times be in the ratio of 40/60. Hence, it has higher strength and resistance against pitting, stress corrosion and cracking. Both chromium and molybdenum are present in higher quantity in this type of steel as compared to austenitic stainless steel. The chromium content varies between 19 to 28 percent and molybdenum can go up to 5 percent. It has lesser amounts of nickel than those found in austenite stainless steel.

Martensitic Stainless Steel

This stainless steel is made of 12 to 14 percent of chromium, about 1 percent each of carbon and molybdenum and about 2 percent of nickel. Due to lower chromium content, it is more brittle than other stainless steels. It is a very tough and strong kind of steel due to the high amounts of carbon. It can be used in a wide range of applications because of its strength, but is not very effective in resisting corrosion.

How stainless steel stays stainless... theoretically

Stainless steels are corrosion resistant because they have high percentages of chromium (Cr) in them. This element is present in sufficient quantity, that, when exposed to oxidizing media (acids, caustics, water, air, etc.), it forms a thin, tightly-adhering and impervious oxide layer (predominantly CrO) that stops further corrosion. In this sense, stainless steels are very much like aluminum in that aluminum also forms an oxide layer that prevents further corrosion of the aluminum. Nevertheless, the oxide layer on stainless steels never get thick enough to be visible to the unaided eye.

Rusts on stainless steel...

Rust is formed on the surface of stainless steel when a condition develops in which the metal molecules at the surface are not sufficiently alloyed with chromium to create or maintain the required oxide layer. Contrary to popular opinion, surface rusting does

not occur when stainless steel is "sensitized" since the bulk of the metal has adequate chromium to prevent surface rusting; sensitized stainless steel only corrodes along the grain boundaries.

Iron contamination...

To have their optimum corrosion resistance, stainless steel surfaces must be clean and have an adequate supply of oxygen to maintain their passive surface layer.

Rust staining can occur and has been reported as anything from a slight brown 'bloom' on the surface to severe surface pitting or rusty scour marks on items such as handrails. These effects are usually due to surface contamination from contact with non-stainless steel items.

here's a very good/detailed article on "Rust on Staineless Steel"

http://www.sperkoengineering.com/html/Rust.pdf

Rust on stainless steel is ugly. Rust on stainless steel raises a lot of questions. Is the steel really stainless steel? If itâ€™s stainless, why is it rusted? Where does the rust come from? Will it continue to rust? Will it spread? Will other forms of attack occur, such as pitting or stress-corrosion cracking?

Grades commonly used at home...
Compositions of '18/8', '18/10' and 18/0'These figures relate to the chromium and nickel contents of the steel, respectively.

18/8 (also known as 304 in the American AISI grade system, or 1.4301 in the European BS EN 10088 standard)
This is probably the most commonly used stainless steel and contains 18% chromium and 8% nickel. It is an 'austenitic' type of stainless steel and so is not (or only very weakly) attracted by a magnet.

18/10
This is commonly used on "higher grade" cutlery and holloware as compared to those made of 18/8. This designation is claimed to indicate a better quality steel than '18/8', but is essentially the same. In practice the "10" does not indicate an actual higher Ni content and is purely a marketing ploy.

18/0 (also known as 430 in the AISI system, or 1.4016 in the European standard).
This is a 'ferritic' stainless steel type, which is attracted by a magnet (like pure iron). It is used where corrosion resistance is not too demanding as an alternative to the 18/8 (304 type). The chromium content is optimistically said to be 18% but is nearer 17%.

The austenitic and ferritic 18/8, 18/10 and 18/0 stainless steels cannot be hardened by heat treatment and so can only be used for knife handles, forks and spoons.
Hardenable martensitic types of stainless steel, like the ferritics, contain only chromium, but with additional carbon. This enables them to respond to hardening heat treatments and so they can be used for knife blades.

The best quality table knives are made in two pieces using a martensitic blade and an austenitic (18/8 or 18/10) handle, bonded together.

Less expensive cutlery is often made as single piece martensitic knives, forks and spoons. This steel is not as costly, as it does not contain the nickel of the 18/8 - 18/10 types, but consequently has lower corrosion resistance. The corrosion resistance of cutlery made in this way should however be adequate for normal tableware use.
Cutlery manufacturers may choose to limit 'life' statements or guarantees on these lower cost pieces.

Some tips on cleaning stainless steel appliances...
http://www.fantes.com/stainless-steel.html

References:
http://www.corrosionist.com/Stainless_Steel_grades.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_steel_grades
http://www.estainlesssteel.com/corrosion.shtml
http://www.sperkoengineering.com/html/Rust.pdf
http://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=1146
http://www.cip.ukcentre.com/stainless1.htm

Edited January 18, 2013 by scoobydoo

scoobydoo · January 30, 2013

Pulse (Pulser) Coil Defective

Symptom: bike just can't start when everything else is working.

Checking:

* according to BS and K&T mechanic, the HISS light on the SW's meter can help show that the pulser coil is defective.

* there must be some special pattern of the blinking, i guess

* if your meter unit does not have the HISS light or it is not working, then no choice gotta depend on the investigative power of your trusted mech or send to BS (agent).

What is the Pulse Coil for?

note: there're many spelling and names for the same thing.

Honda manual listed it as "PULSE"... run out of space on page???

The Pulser Coil is the heart of your engines timing & ignition system.

The Pulser Coil, (often called Pickup Coil, or Timing Coil) is responsible for providing the timing signal to the ignition control box on modern motorcycles with solid-state ignition systems. The majority of motorcycles from the late 1970's and up use this system for reliable, accurate, and low maintenance ignition control. On previous models, points-controlled systems were used, and while cheap and simple, they required routine maintenance and component replacement to ensure reliability.

Modern ignition systems use a solid state (semiconductor) controller to handle the ignition spark timing. The control box, often called a CDI box, or black box, handles multiple functions. The internal electronics are either powered from the battery (DC ignition systems, most street motorcycles), or in AC directly from the stator (most dirt/offroad motorcycles). Current from either the stator or the battery is used to charge up an internal capacitor. This capacitor is then discharged through the ignition coil via the spark plug to generate the very high voltage necessary for a good spark. The CDI box has digitally stored timing maps, to handle advance of the ignition depending on RPM, and sometimes other variables, such as a throttle position sensor (often called TPS, a sensor which varies it's resistance based on the opening of the throttle). The CDI box is fed timing data from the Pulser Coil, which produces a short duration, low current, high voltage pulse in relation to the Top Dead Center (TDC) piston location in the engine.

http://racetechelectric.com/files/images/tech_support/pulser-coil-and-timing.jpg

Typical Construction

The pulser coil is a very simple component. It is generally housed in a small plastic container, and internally potted with epoxy or some other oil resistant material. The pulser coil itself is made up of a small magnet (the exposed metal you can see on the front of the housing), which is wound with a coil of very fine wire. The pulser coil may have one or two wires exiting the case to connect to the ignition box. On one wire systems, on side of the internal coil is grounded to chassis ground through the mounting hardware. On two wire systems, a wire from each side of the coil exits the case to connect to the ignition box.

SW's pulse coil

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=269073&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1359358344

Others...

http://www.gdlcycles.com/general/147-250-PulseCoil-1.jpg

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/med-PC71.jpg

Connection/Circuitry

Seems to be that on called "Ignition Pulse Generator" (at centre right side of diagram)

See post #40 FJS400 Electrical Wiring Diagram

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=269211&d=1359518523

E.g. of how pulser coil is connected (based on Honda CBR250)

http://www.wiringdiagrams21.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/honda-cbr250r-ignition-schematic-diagram.png

Troubleshooting

The Pulser Coil, as a unit, is not usually serviceable. It is a sealed component, and should be replaced if determined to be a problem. Pulser Coil problems sometimes manifest themselves in hard starting situations, but usually failures result in no spark at all.

When the pulser coil fails it will usually produce no output pulse, or a very weak one. This is hard to verify, without special tools such as an oscilloscope to view the pulse. The usual failure is similar to a stator failure mode, the wire coil inside fail with the insulation breaks down and a short occurring, or the wire breaks inside causing an open circuit. The wiring external to the pulser coil assembly can be damaged as well, causing a connection issue. The only real troubleshooting method is to check the resistance of the Pulser Coil wires, to ensure they match known specifications, making it likely the coil inside is intact.

1: Lookup Pulser Coil technical specifications for coil resistance. These are available from the bike's service or owners manual, or our website's product page for our coils.

2: Obtain a Digital MultiMeter (DMM). Set to the hundreds resistance range if the meter is not auto-ranging.

3: Attach each meter lead to one wire from the pulser coil. If there is only one wire exiting the pulser coil, attach one meter lead the wire, and one to the metal mounting foot of the pulser coil housing.

4: Verify resistance reading matches the known specification. For most Pulser Coils this in the range of 180ohms-300ohms, but please compare to exact specifications for your part.
5: If either an short is detected (no resistance), or an open (OL - overload, on most meters), the coil is definitely bad.

6: There are no serviceable parts in a pulser coil, short of repairing a damaged section of the wiring harness. Please replace with a new coil.

Replacing the SW's Pulser Coil

The pulser coil is located under the right side engine cover (same enclosure as where the magnetic coil is).

To replace it, we will have to apply the similar procedures as when changing magnetic coil:

* drain the engine oil

* open the engine right side cover

* replace the coil

* seal back the engine right side cover

* replace with new/recycled engine oil

Reference:

http://racetechelectric.com/ft-752-pulser-coil-ignition-systems.html

Edited January 30, 2013 by scoobydoo

drossi · February 2, 2013

All,

I have a question for the users of the forum. I own a SW 400 and I just moved from Italy to London. I am trying to register the scooter here and they ask me to change the front light and the speedometer (should be in mph and mine is in kph). I went to Honda and they are asking me a lot of money for the new pieces.

I am thinking about looking for used parts but the 400 was never sold in the UK (they have only the 600). I have a couple of questions:

Does any of you know if these pieces of the 600 (speedometer and front light) fit in the 400? Do you know if the 400 was sold in any other country with speedometer in mph? Can you think about any solution (e.g. a speedometer produced by a 3rd party)?

Thxs for your support

Best

Daniel

scoobydoo · February 4, 2013

Dear drossi,

We're also using kph for our speedometer in Singapore. Models sold here are mainly from Euro, such as the FJS400 and SW-T400.

Try checking out the FSC600 models in USA, think they use mph on their speedometers.

From what we know, the 600cc and 400cc SW generally shares the same body kit with only minor differences here and there. My guess is that the 2 may be physically compatible. Problem is, we don't know whether the electronics in them are compatible.

Yes, the speedometer unit costs a lot... I paid around S$500+ for my replacement when the old one was damaged 2 years back.

It's quite unlikely to find a 3rd party speedometer for the SW since it's not a regular replacement or wear-n-tear item that move sales.

As for the front light issue, did you ask them what is "wrong" with your bike's front light?

If it's the colour, just change the bulb to one with a passable colour temperature. E.g. Singapore's land transport authorities require our headlights to be around 4k+; too white (e.g. >6k) or too yellowish (3k+) are considered non-compliant.

If it's the "horizontal twin headlight" of the SW-T400 and they require you to use the FJS type, big problem cos the 2 are very different and won't fit.

Good luck

Edited February 4, 2013 by scoobydoo

Gennosukes · February 24, 2013

sorry to dig this thread, My Qns is which 2B Scooter has Biggest Underseat Storage ?

Mark Yeow · March 3, 2013

Scooter Narcotics is a company that provides expertise in modifications, repairs and service solutions for all makes and models of scooters, including Piaggio, Yamaha, Honda, Kymco, Aprilia, SYM, Daelim, Peugeot and many more. A place where enthusiast gather to learn about scooter tuning. Our skills in tuning scooters today were meticulously imparted from professionals in Europe, providing you the best performance from second to none.

The online store on www.scooter-narcotics.com caters to all customers worldwide promotion, optimized with search engines to make a hassle free shopping wherever you are!

Our chain of supplies are mainly from Malossi, OEM original parts from factory, Polini, PM tuning, Stage6 and many more!

We are also proud partners with Scooter-Attack and other leading companies in the industry to bring you affordable prices for your adrenaline appetites!

Do also visit and like our Facebook page at http://www.facebook.com/ScooternNarcotics?fref=ts

Should you have any enquiries, please do not hesitate to send us an email @ [email protected].

Mark Yeow · March 3, 2013

Scooter Narcotics is a company that provides expertise in modifications, repairs and service solutions for all makes and models of scooters, including Piaggio, Yamaha, Honda, Kymco, Aprilia, SYM, Daelim, Peugeot and many more. A place where enthusiast gather to learn about scooter tuning. Our skills in tuning scooters today were meticulously imparted from professionals in Europe, providing you the best performance from second to none.

The online store on www.scooter-narcotics.com caters to all customers worldwide promotion, optimized with search engines to make a hassle free shopping wherever you are!

Our chain of supplies are mainly from Malossi, OEM original parts from factory, Polini, PM tuning, Stage6 and many more!

We are also proud partners with Scooter-Attack and other leading companies in the industry to bring you affordable prices for your adrenaline appetites!

Do also visit and like our Facebook page at http://www.facebook.com/ScooternNarcotics?fref=ts

Should you have any enquiries, please do not hesitate to send us an email @ [email protected].

Mark Yeow · March 3, 2013

Scooter Narcotics is a company that provides expertise in modifications, repairs and service solutions for all makes and models of scooters, including Piaggio, Yamaha, Honda, Kymco, Aprilia, SYM, Daelim, Peugeot and many more. A place where enthusiast gather to learn about scooter tuning. Our skills in tuning scooters today were meticulously imparted from professionals in Europe, providing you the best performance from second to none.

The online store on www.scooter-narcotics.com caters to all customers worldwide promotion, optimized with search engines to make a hassle free shopping wherever you are!

Our chain of supplies are mainly from Malossi, OEM original parts from factory, Polini, PM tuning, Stage6 and many more!

We are also proud partners with Scooter-Attack and other leading companies in the industry to bring you affordable prices for your adrenaline appetites!

Do also visit and like our Facebook page at http://www.facebook.com/ScooternNarcotics?fref=ts

Should you have any enquiries, please do not hesitate to send us an email @ [email protected].

bigcow · March 3, 2013

So nice of u to potong jalan others thread to advertise. Would be glad if u could remove this ad in here to make yourself look better.

topgearalwaysrock · March 4, 2013

Nice for the heads up Mr BigCow =D

datamancer · April 11, 2013

Hello, I am trying to find out how difficult it would be to put a larger rear wheel on a Silverwing 600 custom project I'm building. Someone on another Silverwing forum (http://www.silverwing600.com/t3239-larger-wheel-anyone) said they saw a thread here back in 2011 where someone had added TMax wheels to a Silverwing, but I have not been able to find the thread. Does anyone know where the thread might be, or know anything about this modification?

Thanks!

-~D~-

Cosmic_Jumper · April 18, 2013

I own a SW 400 and I just moved from Italy to London. I am trying to register the scooter here and they ask me to change the front light and the speedometer (should be in mph and mine is in kph). I went to Honda and they are asking me a lot of money for the new pieces.
Do any of you know if these pieces of the 600 (speedometer and front light) fit in the 400? Do you know if the 400 was sold in any other country with speedometer in mph? Can you think about any solution (e.g. a speedometer produced by a 3rd party)?
Daniel

Daniel,

I have a full size direct photocopy of a MPH speedometer panel for you. Quite a while back I responded to your post on the Silverwing600 forum but have never received a reply to that post. PM me at yahoo[/mention].com"]Cosmic_Jumper @yahoo.com with your mail postal address and I'll send you that photo copy. Of course you'll have to disassemble your meter panel to apply the photocopy over the original meter face, but it's going to be a whole lot less expensive than replacing the entire meter panel just to satisfy some pin-headed bureaucrat.

Tim

sxnin · April 19, 2013

Hello to all experts here and one they are not,

I found here so many good and useful informations, and I am so glad to find this forum....

I am owner of Honda Silver Wing FJS 600, 2004 year model, with HISS system....

Recent I step in some trouble, someone steel my key from lock in front some store here in my town....usually I do not have habit to take key with me when I stay short time, but from now I will :-(

Anyway, here where I live I do not have any licensed dealer or licensed services shop for Honda, closest one is 400km from me, and that is not an option for my problem, at leas if I have any other do it by my self solution!

Now, I have one more key, original, good and in working condition for my SW.

I want to eliminate possibility that the stolen one key still be in working condition, and I know how...after some research on net, i found this tutorial-video

,

and I found some hope, till now I found some more info about SW and ECU and HISS, so as I found out, ECU from SW have planned 6 place for transponders chips in his memory,but only 2 working place (what mean that maximum is 2 working registered keys) and after you fill them all,all 6, and lost every 6 keys, you need to remap ECU or need new one...

So, I found over e bay 3 new uncut keys with 3 pcs of transponder chips ID46 for honda, unlocked-in programing mode, and order it for $50 including shipping. After I receive them, I cut them in local store, they are good, look exactly like original, and they work, expect I cant start SW until I program them-->register them in ECU...

So, I make that "get o" wire for programming ECU, and follow the video tutorial, but with no success....

I found IPG ( ignition pulse generator ) red connector behind right supporting foot (metal part with two screws), and I connect my "get o" wire there, with 1W 100ohm carbon film resistor in middle of + wire, the one witch goes on yellow wire, with original key in side lock on position OFF, and connect clamps on battery, first -, than + !!

Than I put key in ON position, and I have HISS light stay ON firmly as should be, but also I have F1 light ON too, I do not know is that should be, and further I follow instruction, I disconnect + clamp from battery, in many variants, from 3 sec to 30 sec, but with no success to get that mode what I need, indicate with four repeatedly blinking HISS light for four time, all the time it stays ON firmly :-( ....

So, as you can see on you tube, below that video, comments people who manage that, it's possible, on different bikes, so I believe that it's possible also on SW, but I miss something...

Maybe it's about timing, or resistor, or maybe some switch about, maybe some relay protection access to ECU, or I must connect it directly on ECU....that is reason why I need help from you guys, information is there, just need to get it...please share it....

I know that licensed services have that info, and some good professionals or just hobbyist in locksmith profession, but question is will they share that info with us....

Key is I think in protocol-->procedure ...

Thanks all of you in front, I think this will help many of us if we solve this out....

regards from

Croatia

sxnin · April 22, 2013

No one at all, ufff,

I am little bit surprised-disappointed, cos I was expecting quick response and help....but OK, probably the right one person did not read my post yet !

So I must wait cos I do not have solution for my problem....

SW9000 · April 22, 2013

Try post your question at the Silverwing cafe.

Traffic there is much higher.

This thread is normally reserved for posting of technical information/solution.

Once you've found the answer you've wanted, then post the solution here to share.

sxnin · May 8, 2013

Try post your question at the Silverwing cafe.
Traffic there is much higher.

This thread is normally reserved for posting of technical information/solution.

Once you've found the answer you've wanted, then post the solution here to share.

OK, thanks, I'll try there than!!

scoobydoo · May 16, 2013

these posts are taken from the Silverwing / HOM Cafe ... good to know stuffs, IMO

Other than Enhanced Medishield (buy with CPF Medisave) with additional Riders, what else is there?

basically, can sum up under 3 categories:
+ Protect ... against unfortunate events in life,
+ Save ... for retirement & rainy days,
+ Invest ... money no enough; pay-n-pay, how to enough

IMO, we need these...

(a) accident ... protection; personal accident (aka PA) & disability plans
imo, this is a must have, especially when our motorcycle covers only 3rd parties.
in case we forgot, motorcycle insurances do not cover the riders, unless we pay extra for PA add-on coverage.

(b) minor sickness ... protection; employer or self-pocket "plans"
if self employed (including home makers), suck thumb lor.

© sick & hospitalised/surgery ... protection; medical/health plans, hospitalisation & surgical (aka H&S) plans
there're a wide range of medical and H&S plans in the market, from the government introduced MediShield/ElderShield (basic coverage that pays part of the bills) to commercial plans (more complete/customisable coverage depending on needs & affordability, e.g. Prudential's PruShield extra).
imo, additional coverage on top of the basic MediShield/ElderShield is a must have, especially when medical costs has skyrocketed over the years... leading to the common saying, "can die cannot get sick".

(d) sick with critical illness ... protection; critical illness plans
critical illness plans are generally riders, thus base life plans are still required. the basically accelerates the payment of life plans's protection amount (depending on how much is purchased) in one lump sum upon diagnosis of any one of the 30 critical illnesses (see link for e.g. http://www.income.com.sg/insurance/luv/30illnesses.asp)

(e) kick the bucket ... protection; life plans (with returns), or term plans (usually no returns)
some people say, die liow "no worries liow" but that's only true if you've no one to take care of.
basic coverage is for death & disability but may be added with extras for investment, critical illness, etc.
primary difference between life and term plans is one has cash value during the course of the plan while the later has no "take-backs".
imo, we need to protect our loved ones, unless if we're like Mr æ— åä¸‰ who is æ— å æ— å§“ æ— çˆ¶ æ— æ¯ æ— å…„ æ— å¼Ÿ æ— å§ æ— å¦¹ æ— å¸ˆ æ— å¾’ æ— äº² æ— å‹ æ— èº«ä»½

(f) kick the rice bowl ... savings; retirement plans
if you've got loads in bank to provide for our post-employment living needs, can skip this. but hey! how many of us can confidently say "i've got enough"?
depend on CPF? many of us (if not most) can forget it cos we won't get to "depend" on the monies that're "saved" inside, especially when the bulk is wiped-out after purchasing a property and the minimum sum keeps on increasing.
if you're a farmer or peasant like me, suggest you seriously consider putting a sum aside for such plans.

(g) spare monies ... investment; investment plans
money no enough, so need to make money grow monies http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy109/Barkkid/smiley.jpg

(h) ride overseas ... protection; travel insurance
for rider who go up north regularly, i'ld strongly recommend to buy an annual travel insurance policy.
some riders see this as redundant, but you'll never know when you're going to wake up with a stiff and unable to continue riding or slip down the stairways of a hotel breaking something

got spare time ... go makan, lim kopi and ride ride ride

p/s: i'm not an insurance agent so pardon me if some info i just shared is "less accurate".

Edited May 21, 2013 by scoobydoo

badaboum · May 23, 2013

Hey guys,

It's rami from France.

I just bought an SWT400 and managed to lock the trunk with both keys in it....

I know it sound crazy but I did it !!!

Do you have any idea how I can manage to open it ??

I tried to lockpick the lock.... but didn't succeded.

Is it possible to remove the side panel in order to reach the cable?

Thanks guys

CHeers

SW9000 · August 17, 2013

Bumping this up!

scoobydoo · August 27, 2013

Lithium Ion Battery Review

Manufacturer: æå·žä¸‡é©¬é«˜èƒ½é‡ç”µæ± æœ‰é™å…¬å¸ (å¤©ä¸°ç”µæº) aka Skyrich Powersport Batteries

http://www.skyrichpower.com/?m=page&linkid=aboutus

http://www.skyrichpower.com/?g=en&m=page&linkid=aboutus

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/Skyrich0_zps9663f1bc.png

Bike in use: Honda Silver Wing FJS400 (2006)

Battery replaced: Yuasa YTZ14S

Battery Model: HJTZ14S

Purchase Date: 26/08/2013

S'pore Reseller: Wing Yap Motor Pte Ltd (referred by Skyrich)

Parallel Import: yet to find out

Batt Specs

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/c86003b2-db7c-432c-b262-08aa95c417d7_zpsbc24b06d.jpg

Hi Joseph...

thank you for your reply...

Kindly note on the pricing on the following :
1) HJTZ10S - $188
2) HJTZ12 - $188
3) HJTZ14S - $198

Skyrich are the OEM manufacture of LI batteries with MV Augusta and KTM.
kindly advise on the model of your motorcycling club. I will be more than happy to work on a MO deal for your club on this.

Best Regards
Jackson Oh
Manager
Official Site : www.wingyap.com.sg

Dear Mr.Joseph,

I forward your mail to Mr.Jackson . He will handle with your request as our agent .

Best regards !

2013-08-17
Huiping Chen
HANGZHOU HAIJIU BATTERY CO.,LTD.
118# LINBAN ROAD,HANGZHOU,ZHEJIANG,CHINA
Tel:86-571-85810717,86-571-88144451
Fax:86-571-88144436
E.mail: huiping.chen@Hai jiu.com
sales@Hai jiu.com
Web:http://Http://www.haijiu.com

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/Skyrich2_zps56af61a9.jpg

Green Batt?

The manufacturer claimed that the batt contains no poisonous substances like cadmium, lead, or mercury; they contain phosphate, iron, and lithium, organic salts which are nontoxic for the soil, plants, and the environment.

Hmmm... good but not a major factor to choose it.

Initial Observations

See pic above.

The battery came is a proper clear plastic packing with spare screws and 2 plastic fillers.

Weight wise, it is definitely much lighter than the Yuasa YTZ14S. The body looks reasonably well finished and came with charge tester installed between the 2 terminals. Pressed it and indicator showed fully charged (nope, it doesn't show voltage, just high medium and low), battery came pre-charged.

p/s: there is no telling of charge level in terms of voltage.

Physical Fit

Lithium batts are know for their smaller sizes but I chose the model that could fit into the SW's batt compartment without the need for spacers. HJTZ14S spec says it could fit nicely but until we put the real thing in, we won't know for sure.

Well, it went in with a little push, no lubricants needed

Performance Expectations

So what am I expecting from this lithium batt?

(a) Crank start the bike spontaneously

(b) Holds charge even after prolonged periods of bike inactivity (e.g. to ride once a month or more)

Although manufacturer claimed it lasts for >2000 cycles, i'ld be very satisfied with 3 years

The batt came pre-charged at 70% capacity. Turned on the ignition and voltmeter showed 13V, switched on headlight and voltage showed 12.8V. As expected, the bike crank started with no issues, alternator took over and voltmeter showed 13.4+V at idle.

As for (b) and ©, only time could tell

Inside the Battery

Courtesy of Gas2.org

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/Skyrichopened_zpsd6260e78.jpg

Some Matters of Concern

* I can't help but to doubt the manufacturer's claimed that their lithium batt could be recharged to 90% within 6 mins.

http://www.skyrichpower.com/?g=en&m=product&a=detail&id=69
rechargeable with 10C current and 90% recharged within 6 minutes

* There is no mention of any use of BMS in the manufacturer's/resellers' websites. So we won't know if there is something in the batt's design to prevent overcharging when we go touring.

* Manufacturer stated that charging occurs when voltage is between 14V to

* 2 weeks? Errr... I sometimes leave bike idle for 2~3 weeks. If need to remove then no diff from using lead-acid batts liow

http://www.skyrichpower.com/?g=en&m=service
Please remove the battery or remove the battery cable if you do not use the motorcycle for two weeks or longer, in order to avoid batteries discharging by tiny current in vehicles...

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/Skyrich2_zps9ba79330.png

Charge Holding Records & Comments

Records of Batt Output (date, Voltage headlights off/on)26/08/2013: 13.0V / 12.8V (upon installation)

26/08/2013: installed batt (pre-charged), crossed my fingers... bike cranked/started as "advertised". cool, batt works

26/08/2013: ride/charge approx. 30mins. phew, batt is at least safe for use, for now, no "explosion".

27/08/2013: 13.1V / 13.0V ... only turned on to check voltage.

18/09/2013: 13.0V / 12.9V ... only turned on to check voltage.

21/09/2013: 13.0V / 12.9V ... only turned on to check voltage.

~ bike left dormant for 26 days

21/09/2013: able to crank start easily, bike did not reinitiate system check like my old Yuasa batt

21/09/2013: ride/charge ~ 15mins

27/09/2013: 13.1V / 13.0V (after riding ~10km)

28/09/2013: 13.1V / 13.0V ... only turned on to check voltage.

05/10/2013: 13.1V / 13.0V ... crank started easily, bike did not reinitiate system check

05/10/2013: 13.2V / 13.1V (after riding ~60+km)

~ bike left dormant for 14 days

19/10/2013: 13.1V / 13.0V ~ crank started easily despite sleeping for 2 weeks

~ bike left dormant for 21 days

09/11/2013: disabled option to switch off headlights

09/11/2013: 12.9V ... crank started easily despite sleeping for 3 weeks

. . . . . . . . . est. no load 13V; manufacturer's table says capacity left between 30~40%

21/11/2013: 12.9V ... crank started easily despite sleeping for 1+ week

28/11/2013: 13.0V ... crank started easily despite sleeping for 1 week

03/12/2013: 13.0V ... crank started easily despite sleeping for 1 week

31/12/2013: 12.8V ... crank started easily despite sleeping for 3+ weeks

31/12/2013: 13.0V ... after riding through MCE from West to East and back, clocking near 70km

. . . next update around July or Aug 2014.

14/08/2014: 13.0V ... crank started easily despite sleeping for 2 week

26/08/2014: 13.0V ... crank started easily despite sleeping for 1.5 weeks

29/08/2014: 13.0V ... crank started easily

~ went for 3D2N KL-Ipoh ride trip, no issues with batt at all

10/09/2014: 13.0V ... crank started easily despite sleeping for 2 week

18/09/2014: 13.0V ... crank started easily despite sleeping for 1 week

24/09/2014: 13.0V ... crank started easily despite sleeping for 1 week

20/06/2015: 12.9V ... crank started easily despite sleeping for a month

Thereafter to Apr'17 ... crank started easily despite sleeping most of the time

~ no more voltage readings as someone "borrowed" it together with the "switches" seeing that bike is mostly not in use.

I had to spend money and get K&T to redo all the wirings for safety ... TMD

Here's something to shout about

30/09/2015: Rode and charged batt before "wrapping" it up for extended period of no use
14/12/2015: 12.9V ... crank started easily despite sleeping for 2.5 months, gave it quick wash and went STA for inspection...
passed
what more can i say about the lithium battery?

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/Lithium-Batt_02_zpsxtzpfpff.jpg

not bad at all, batt is abt 1yr 10mths and doing good... keep it up

. . . next update in early 2016.

.. so on so forth

My Review (final update)

Compared to the other lithium units available thru' SBF MO, I prefer Skyrich's "hard case" packing (more sturdy than shrink wrapped ones), and it fits nicely into the battery compartment (no need spacers to keep it from running loose). Hey, it's definitely lighter than the YTZ14S I've been using over the years.

As for performance, have to say I am more than happy with it considering how "un-often" I ride my bike, regularly laid still for more than a month.

As for manufacturer's claim of >2000 cycles or 3+ years, battery was installed in Aug 2013 and it is still working fine as at 22 Apr 2017 (sold bike together with it)... that's >3Â½ years already, need I say more

Based on the records noted above, the Skyrich hoovers near 13V while the YTZ hoovers around 12+V when bike is under-utilised; readings taken with headlights on and light engine not started.

For now, the batt seems to be able to hold its charge pretty well. Well, if it can't even deliver this level of performance when new, it's time to abandon it

Most new batts shouldn't have problem crank starting the bike when they're just 3 month old, even if bike is under-utilised like mine.

Verdict = Recommended

... based on my personal experience

Edited April 25, 2017 by scoobydoo

scoobydoo · August 28, 2013

Amount of Reserve Fuel

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=286898&d=1377658864

Fazli · October 15, 2013

http://www.ebay.com/itm/13kg-28-6-lb-Lift-Support-Gas-Strut-Shock-Spring-Prop-11-/370767929658?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56537da13a&vxp=mtr

Replacement seat gas strut from ebay.

scoobydoo · December 12, 2013

Seat Damper-Opener (32102-MCT-003)

Someone has asked if the Damper-Opener (DO) is able to automatically lift the seat up after we turn the seat-lock.

Nope. It isn't strong enough to do that, at least for the stock unit.

The smallish DO delivers just sufficient force to:

* assist in lifting the relatively heavy seat from around half open to max, and

* keep the seat in the open position while the rider digs into the under-seat storage compartment for his/her stuffs.

Like all bike parts, wear n tear sets in and it loses it strength over time. My SW's DO lost it's ability to hold the seat open after about 3Â½ years. No biggie, while some chose to have it replaced, some simply live with it since it does not impair safety or performance of the bike.

How much it cost?

Around +/- S$50 from local parts shops.

just got reply from BS, the sub-wire (32102-MCT-003) costs $26.00 and seat-damper (83590-MCT-003) costs $51.50... need to +7% GST but can get 10% discount. net = $74.65
problem is gotta wait 90 days for sea shipping; air shipping need to add $150 surcharge

Seat dumper at $50 for FJT ES.

I bought the seat hydraulic from chong aik few months back...$48+_ if I remember correctly

How to replace?

Items required:

* new Damper-Opener

* stick or something to keep seat in lifted position while working, or get a friend to help hold it

* tools such as screw driver, pointed plier or something to pull the retaining pin out and put it back in

(1) Off engine and put bike on main stand. Side stand? Can, why not?

Strongly suggest NOT to keep engine running (on main stand) cos it's gonna be hot and more risky.

(2) Release the seat-lock and lift seat into desired position

Note: no need to dismount/remove the whole seat

(3) Remove the 4 screws holding the black plastic cover... 2 on top, and 2 small ones at each side.

No need to remove the plastic cover wholly but it'll be easier to work without it in the way.

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=294634&d=1386775521

(4) Remove the retaining pins (both ends) carefully, making sure it doesn't drop out of your hands cos it'll be rather difficult to find it if it drops.

(5) Once pins are out, remove the worn DO from the chassis/seat and replace it with a new piece.

Take note not to drop or loose the aluminium spacer when removing the DO.

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=294635&d=1386775521

(6) Put back the retaining pins.

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=294636&d=1386775521

(7) Mount back the plastic cover (+screws) and whoala!!!

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=294637&d=1386775522

Source: contribution from our kaki Nighthawk250

Need to remove this plastic cover and i use elastic band to hold the seat whilst I remove it

Aftermarket dampers?

It was said that the Honda's stock damper is rather soft and less lasting, the use of compatible dampers from other bikes could be a better option.

While some dampers meant for other bikes/scooters may fit due to their compatible dimensions, some modifications are usually required to make it fit into the SW's structure. Most common requirement is at the eyelet.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/13kg-28-6-lb-Lift-Support-Gas-Strut-Shock-Spring-Prop-11-/370767929658?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56537da13a&vxp=mtr

Replacement seat gas strut from ebay.

http://www.silverwing600.com/t6144-seat-strut
My new seat strut arrived today. I ordered one off ebay matching the oem strut measurements (11 inches center to center of opened strut holes). The total cost was $14.23 Canadian. It took me less than 5 minutes to install. It has 13kg 28.6 lbs of lift which is perfect, once unlocked the seat only has to be raised about 4 to 6 inches then the strut will raise it from there unassisted. Very happy with the end result. cheers

The oem is on the right. Had to remove the small plastic inserts in the new strut (left) and drill the holes slightly bigger to accept the oem stud bushing inserts.
http://i80.servimg.com/u/f80/17/72/20/34/img_1410.jpg

No need to take anything apart to remove the old strut. just bend this piece up a little to allow access to the lower retaining clip. Be very careful not to let the retaining clip fall. Dont forget to use something to prop up the seat before removing the strut.

http://www.silverwing600.com/t2058-stronger-seat-strut-replacement#17889
Just in case these are not available here are some measurements of the original strut with digital calipers

Strut

A = ( B + C ) = ( 5.708 + 4.224 ) == 9.932 inches
Total length of strut (base of eyelet to base of eyelet)

B = 5.708 inches
Length of gas strut (base of eyelet to end of gas cylinder)

C = 4.224 inches
Length of shaft (base of eyelet to base of gas cylinder)

D = 0.239 inches
Width of shaft

E = 0.600 inches
Width of gas cylinder

Eyelet

F = 0.430 inches
Length of eyelet from top of eyelet to center of eyelet (approximation of center)

G = 0.610 inches
Length of eyelet from base of eyelet to center of eyelet (approximation of center)

H = 0.326 inches
Width of eyelet

http://www.silverwing600.com/t6905-seat-damper-upgrade
http://www.centreautodiscount.com/media/aqw.jpg

Edited October 7, 2014 by scoobydoo

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