<Info> Silverwing 400cc / 600cc Tech Corner

[spin37]

Hi..

If today I Pump esso 95.. few days later i pump shell 98.. then shell v-power.. then malaysia shell 97.. Will it cause any damage to the engine??

will the FC become higher??

 

No la, no problem one. As long as its petrol. If got problem, then wat abt those who always go touring in the north ? Almost different petrol station at every stop. Then in Thailand, those pump gasohol ? Ethanol plus petrol, worst ? According to the manual, SW use ron92 can already. But 92 gives very sluggish output..95 is good enough, 98 is better, vpower is best..lol

[spin37]

Hi..

If today I Pump esso 95.. few days later i pump shell 98.. then shell v-power.. then malaysia shell 97.. Will it cause any damage to the engine??

will the FC become higher??

 

No la, no problem one. As long as its petrol. If got problem, then wat abt those who always go touring in the north ? Almost different petrol station at every stop. Then in Thailand, those pump gasohol ? Ethanol plus petrol, worst ? According to the manual, SW use ron92 can already. But 92 gives very sluggish output..95 is good enough, 98 is better, vpower is best..lol

[scoobydoo]

hehe... i happen to be a Caltex man in the past and have asked the techkies a similar question then.

 

Among the various petrol from Caltex, Esso, Mobil, BP, Shell, etc. which is better?

His reply was...

All about the same despite the many differences claimed by the petrol companies. Not that they are lying, just that small things made big

 

BTW, I pumped BP petrol despite working in Caltex not because BP’s petrol are better but out of convenience; petrol of the same octane level have minimal differences.

One thing I'm more concerned about is the petrol's cleanliness. Dunno how true but it is said that impurities in the tank gets stirred up by the petrol gushing into the tank. Thus, better to refuel after the impurities settle down. I always avoid pumping petrol soon after the big fuel truck load up the station's underground tank.

 

will dig up an old post and paste it here later tonight

Edited November 16, 2010 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

According to SgCarMart.com's directory, there are >200 stations in Singapore supplying petrol from Shell (64), ExxonMobil (68), SPC (39) and Caltex (34).

 

Any "Real" Differences Between Their Petrol?

 

If we don't consider the deeper aspects, differences between the various petrol offerings to end users like you and me could be summaried as:

 

· Octane levels

· Additives

· Colouring

· Tons of marketing

 

Although much is said about F1 cars using the same fuel as those available (RON98) at our neighborhood stations, that is one saying many find hard to believe.

Exotic high-density fuel blends for F1 are tuned for maximum performance in given weather conditions or different circuits. General consumer petrol are blend for economy with some performance

 

(A) Octane Levels/Ratings

 

When used in high compression internal combustion engines, petrol has a tendency to auto-ignite, resulting in "engine knocking" which is damaging to the engines.

 

Octane rating is a measure of the resistance of petrol to engine knocking. While some vehicles require a high octane fuel, some can run on lower octane fuel safely. Always use the minimum octane rating recommended by manufacturers.

Octane rating does not relate to the energy content of the fuel (see heating value). It is only a measure of the fuel's tendency to burn in a controlled manner, rather than exploding in an uncontrolled manner.

 

What does RON92 or RON98 means?

 

RON is the abbreviation for Research Octane Number. It is determined by running the petrol in a test engine with a variable compression ratio under controlled conditions, and comparing the results with those for mixtures of iso-octane and n-heptane.

E.g. Petrol with the same knocking characteristics as a mixture of 98% iso-octane and 2% heptane would be rated as RON98.

 

It is also possible for a fuel to have a RON of >100, because iso-octane is not the most knock-resistant substance available. Racing fuels, avgas, LPG, and alcohol fuels such as methanol or ethanol may have octane ratings of >110; e.g. ethanol's RON is 129.

 

How does Octane levels affect petrol performance?

 

Higher octane ratings correlate to higher activation energies. i.e. less likely that a given compression will cause uncontrolled auto-ignition, something undesirable in all sense in a spark ignition engine. Imagine what would happen when timing of combustions in each cylinder of the engine go haywire? Simply haywire!

 

Higher RON petrol can be run at a higher compression ratio without causing auto or uncontrolled detonation. Generally, higher compression generates higher power and thermodynamic efficiency. High-performance engines are designed to operate with a high maximum compression, and thus demand high-octane premium petrol.

 

Higher RON mean more Power? Not necessary!

 

A common misconception is that power output or fuel mileage can be improved by burning higher octane fuel in all engines. Or at least what lots of marketing is saying, without the fine prints of course.

 

Fact is, power output of an engine depends in part on the energy density of its fuel; that’s why fuel density is so important in F1 cars. But petrol with different RON may have similar density. Since switching to a higher octane petrol does not add any more hydrocarbon content or oxygen, the engine is unlikely to produce more power.

 

Nevertheless, using petrol with RON lower than required by the engine often reduces power output and efficiency one way or another, mainly due the knocking and auto-ignition.

 

Verdict? Use petrol with suitable RON.

 

 

(B) Additives

 

Over the history of petrol as automotive fuel, many different types of additives were used to improve its performance and efficiency. Well known ones include lead (discontinued due to safety reasons), ethanol, cleaning agents, lubricants, etc.

 

Lead (Leaded Petrol)... discontinued

 

As discussed above, auto-ignition and "engine knocking" is a problem in petrol internal combustion engines. The use of lead additives (e.g. tetra-ethyl lead) reduced petrol’s tendency to auto-ignite under compression thus paving the way for more powerful higher compression engines. This led to its widespread adoption in the 1920s. Another advantage of using lead additives was its ability to protect valve seats from erosion.

 

The use of lead additives started to drop in the 1980s due to safety/environmental concerns and their incompatibility with catalytic converters modern automobiles. Their use have been phased out in the 90s and are illegal in some countries.

 

Ethanol

 

In some countries, ethanol is added by law to a minimum level (e.g. 5.9%). While most petrol stations display a sticker stating that the fuel may contain up to 10% ethanol, some countries do not require such disclosures.

 

Cleaning Agents

 

Cleaning agents are probably the most popular and widely marketed additives in petrol. Some advantages of using such detergents are:

· reduced internal engine carbon build ups

· improved combustion thus fuel efficiency and better acceleration/power

· reduced or cleaner emissions

· smoother idling

· easier starting in cold climates

 

The highest levels of detergent can be found in Top Tier Detergent Gasolines; the specification developed by 4 automakers.

In 2004 BMW, General Motors, Honda, and Toyota established a proprietary standard for a class of petrol called Top Tier Detergent Gasoline with increased levels of detergents. Volkswagen and Audi joined the consortium in 2007. Petrol brands can participate and get Top Tier listing if they meet the prescribed standards.

 

Lubricating Agents

 

Another popular additive could be the use of “lubricants” in petrol.

E.g. Shell’s Friction Modifier Technology (FMT) in V-Power is basically additives used to “reduce friction between the cylinder and piston rings, a critical area of the engine where lubrication is difficult to achieve”. Objective is to help the pistons move more smoothly, engine turn more freely, reduce energy loss due to friction, reduce wear and tear in the cylinders.

E.g. ExxonMobil’s Synergy 8000 includes a “fully synthetic friction reduction additive package, which can keep fuel injectors and intake valves of an engine clean, allowing the engine to perform at its optimum and provide measureable improvement in fuel economy. In addition, it provides corrosion protection to the vehicle’s fuel system”.

 

© Dyes

 

Have you ever wonder why the petrol from different brands look different in colour?

They are different in colour not because of grade or quality, but plainly because of dyes.

E.g. the red petrol from Esso is basically the same as the greenish petrol from Shell, differing only in octane level, additives and dyes.

 

In the past, dyes were used mainly to differentiate the type of petrol; e.g. blue for aviation petrol, red for automotive use, etc. In recent years, colours have been used also for marketing effects.

 

 

Petrol & Petroleum

 

Petrol (called gasoline in North America) is a petroleum-derived liquid mixture used as mainly as fuel in internal combustion engines found in cars, motorcycles, generators, etc. When we talk about petrol, we cannot escape from knowing its origin, petroleum or crude oil of which it is refined from.

 

Petroleum or crude oil is a naturally occurring, toxic, flammable liquid consisting of a complex mixture of hydrocarbons of various molecular weights and other liquid organic compounds. Small quantities of various additives are common, for purposes such as tuning engine performance or reducing harmful exhaust emissions. Some mixtures also contain significant quantities of ethanol as a partial alternative fuel.

 

Quality and Classification of Petroleum

 

The proportion of light hydrocarbons in the petroleum mixture is highly variable between different oil fields and ranges from as much as 97% by weight in the lighter oils to as little as 50% in the heavier oils and bitumens.

 

The petroleum industry generally classifies crude oil by the geographic location it is produced in (e.g. West Texas Intermediate, Brent, or Oman), its API gravity (an oil industry measure of density), and by its sulfur content. Crude oil may be considered light if it has low density or heavy if it has high density; and it may be referred to as sweet if it contains relatively little sulfur or sour if it contains substantial amounts of sulfur.

 

Light crude oil is more desirable than heavy oil since it produces a higher yield of petrol, while sweet oil commands a higher price than sour oil because it has fewer environmental problems and requires less refining to meet sulfur standards imposed on fuels in consuming countries. All in a nutshell, we can say:

 

_ _ Most desirable quality = Sweet + Light

_ _ Least desired quality = Sour + Heavy

 

 

acknowledgements:

friends, wikipedia

[scoobydoo]

HISS = Honda Ignition Security System

 

About HISS

 

First introduced in 1996 for cars, this is Honda's unique, electronically controlled security system. A chip in the original ignition key recognizes signals from the Engine Control Unit (ECU) and sends a special ID verification signal. If the signals do not match, the engine will not start. In 2001, HISS was made available for Honda motorcycles.

 

Totally disabling the engine at the very heart of its ignition system, the system cannot be bypassed by either hot-wiring the ignition or exchanging the ignition switch module, thus effectively deterring joyriders and greatly reducing the possibility of ride-away theft.

 

HISS for Silver Wing

 

HISS works in tandem with the Honda's security coded keys; without the synchronised codes (commonly referred to as programming) between the key and the bike's ECU, its engine could not be started.

 

There is no need to worry if you do not see the red HISS light blinking, HISS is automatically active whenever the ignition is turned off.

The rider is able to manually activate the blinker by following the procedures in page 48 (see attached).

However, the indicator function will be cancelled when the ignition is turned on again. i.e. rider will have to manually activate it if he/she wants the blinker to be on every time he/she parks the ride

 

Other posts about HISS:

Additional HISS keys for SW

[peterlim34]

Any guru had changed their exhaust system(LTA friendly),full system or only end can? Any improvement? need to do dyno-tune?

Thanks.

[scoobydoo]

According to specifications:

* Fuel Tank Capacity = 16 Litres

* Reserve = approx 3.5 Litres

 

Generally, fuel efficiency (determined by average fuel consumption) of each Silver Wing differs, even if the scoots are of the same class and model/version. This is mainly due to differences in riding pattern, riding style, riding conditions, etc. Other factors that could affect FC are air-screw settings, grade/weight of engine oil used, petrol RON levels, exhaust systems, airflow or air filter type (e.g. stock or K&N), rollers & variator setups (e.g. stock or aftermarkets from Malossi, Polini, J-Costa, Dr Pulley, etc.), use of performance enhancing products (e.g. FP60, PA2, PA ignite, Raizin VS, Revtech, etc.), etc. and even tyre pressure plays a part.

 

Information compiled here are for general reference only.

 

Fuel Gauge Calibrations

 

Reserve indicators for FJS/JDM and SWT/GT are different as their meter panels are different; FJS/JDM use digital black LCD display (blinker) while SWT/GT use a mechanical pointer (red zone)… see pic below.

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/FuelGauge.jpg?t=1292343938

 

According to feedback from JDM SW 400cc riders, their FC is higher than those recorded by FJS 400cc units even when the T-mode (aka booster) were not used. Although the hardware are almost identical, it is said that the ECU setting is the main cause of the disparity.

 

"Tank level" markings on the SW's gauges do not drop in a linear manner as the amount of fuel remaining in the tank decreases, especially from full tank to 1st marking.

E.g. some SW arrive at their first bar after travelling about 90+km from full tank. Assuming FC is 24+km/L, this means approx 3.7L has been used. But that doesn’t mean each bar represents 3.7L as subsequent bars represents approx. 1.4L each till reserve.

As each SW's FC is somewhat different, calibrations are expected to differ slightly.

 

My fuel gauge starts to blink at the last bar when I am at 240km. From what I understand, another 50km more I should be pushing bike soon yes?

 

I went up to 330km, and it will still going strong. I decided to pump petrol when I hit that number though. It filled to 15.3 litres (added: 21+km/L).

 

Should I check the float in the fuel tank? Or just take 300km as my bench mark to look for a petrol station?

its normal... that's becoz the SW's reserve is 4 litres out of a capacity of 16 litres. a very big reserve we have for sinkapor roads where gas stations are readily available

 

when to refuel is a matter of personal preference. at least now you know you have to start looking for a gas station when trip meter crosses 330km.

i don't refuel when the blinker appears but follow the trip meter; usually refuel after 350km (my FC about 24+km/l)... especially when using Rm gasoline

as a quick reference, my FC about 25+km/l when...

. 1st bar gone about 90+km

.. indicator at "half" tank about 190+km

... reserve blinker appears about 300~305km

if this bar goes off after 230+km, you're on good course for near 25km/l coz my last few bars clocks about 34km before hitting reserve

Same same as mine:

1st bar goes off = 95km

2nd = 125km

3rd = 155km

4th (half way) = 195km

5th = 225km

6th = 255km

7th (blink blink) = 295km

But I normally can only pump 11.8L when blink so = 25km/L.

 

Lets see. A gentle rider like me (90-100km/h) gets:

 

1st Bar - 95km

2nd Bar - 125km

3rd Bar - 155km

4th Bar - 195km

5th Bar - 225km

6th bar - 255km

7th Bar - 295km

 

Last 2 pumps:

19 May 2010 - 367km @14.6L = 25.24km/L

24 May 2010 - 370km @14.6L = 25.34km/L

 

 

Maximum Range

 

Some of us have tried the maximum "tank range" (intentionally and unintentionally) and best results so far is around 400km + a few loose km. After which the bike will "go on strike" with an empty tank.

SW with higher FC would register a shorter maximum range

 

Measuring Fuel Efficiency

 

For more accuracy, average FC of a bike needs to be monitored over a longer period instead of basing on data collected over just 2 or 3 refills. Also, we should remove those abnormal conditions that deviates from our daily riding, a good example would be touring, where FC could either be higher due to higher rpms/speeds (e.g. 21+km/L at 130+km/h on NSHW to Thailand), or lower if still travelling at normal daily speeds but without the "start-stops" of city riding (e.g. ~26km/L leisurely at

 

Collecting FC Data:

1) Refuel to full tank (level should always be the same for accuraccy).

2) Reset trip meter to zero and start riding.

3) At next refuel (to same full level), note down the km travelled and litres of fuel topped up; you have 1 data set.

4) Reset the trip meter and start riding again.

5) Repeat steps 3 & 4 for as many cycles (data sets) desired.

6) Compute FC as follows:

 

FC (km per litres) = Total Distance Travelled / Total Fuel Consumed

 

A common communication error:

Higher FC means less efficient, i.e. less km travelled per litre.

Some riders got it mixed up by saying FC increased when they km/l increased; FC improved or FC decreased would be more appropriate.

 

 

by lokeks

How to calculate Fuel Comsumption (FC)

 

 

dont bother when it start to blink.

Mine now blink at 160km, use to be 200km.

 

Go by a test method you can follow.

You can start anytime.

 

1) Put bike on main stand.

2) Insert fuel nozzle all the way. (Any fuel grade will do)

3) Press the fuel pump to pump (use the middle level so the flow of fuel is slower) until the nozzle automatically stop by itself. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REFUEL.

4) Set your A TRIP to "0km" before moving off.

5) Ride as per normal.

6) Make sure you hit about 200km before your next refuel.

(The longer the distance, the lesser is the error)

7) Put bike on main stand.

8) Before refuelling, take note of A TRIP. eg. "180.2km"

9) Insert fuel nozzle all the way.

10) Press the fuel pump to pump (use the middle level so the flow of fuel is slower) until the nozzle automatically stop by itself. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REFUEL.

11) Take note of pump volume. eg. 8.65L

 

Distance travelled/Fuel volume = Fuel Comsumption.

 

In this case, eg. 180.2/8.65 = 20.8 km/L or 21km/L

 

Do this method for at lest 3 times. This is to minimise errors again in the test methodolgy.

 

(FC1+FC2+FC3)/3= Ave FC

 

Common FC of SW 400cc

 

FJS 400cc : from around 21~25km/L

JDM 400cc : from around 17~22km/L

SWT 400cc : similar to FJS (limited info)

 

My fuel consumption always been less than 23km/L (260km+/- blink reserve) since the bike was 2000km old.

 

Today I just spent $400/- to pamper the bike including:

 

1. Maxima Extra E.O

2. Air Filter (Original)

3. Throttle body Syn + O Rings

4. Steering cone bearings

5. Fork oil (Maxima Fork Oil) + oil seal + addition of fork guard

6. Transmission Oil (Maxima 80w gear oil)

7. Brake Calipers cleaning + Brake Fluid Flush)

 

Well, I hope my f/c will improve, if not it is really my riding style that is the main root cause of the problem

I rode my SW till empty - yes - literally empty tank! My purpose is to test how far can a SW go on 16L of petrol and how far can its reserve tank stretch. Here's my result:

 

Road Cond: 50-50 City/E'way in Singapore only.

Load capacity: 60% with pillon

Riding style: take off from 3500RPM. E'way @ 90-100kph.

Avg speed: 70-80kph

Fuel Consumption: 22.6km/L

 

Distance covered with 16L (incl reserve) - 363KM

Distance covered with reserve - 89KM

 

(SW9000/Scoobydoo... do u wanna add this info to the SW tech thread?)

For 400cc, FC about 23-25km/L

For 600cc, FC about 19-21km/L

 

SW only got 16L tank and reserves starts at 12L.

Since yours only 19km/L, then:

Reserve at 228km with a balance mileage of 76km. *Total = 304km.

Top up once it hit reserve to play safe. For info, we normally rest at every 150km++ during tours.

 

For touring, best to maintain around rpm 6.5k, which is about 120km/h.

But note that SW can generally cruise at 140km/h also. Depends on rider.

My best FC is 23km/l (Max), approx 280km for 12litres, on last blinking fuel bar before refuelling..

 

The FC you have indicated is as good as my previous X9 180cc, which gives me 30km/l with revtec installations.

 

I guess you might got your calculation wrong.

It might not be the case. Just use the distances travelled/the amt of litres pump in = km/l.

 

Mine is average of 22 - 24km/l. But I always move off slowly and pick up more later.

no, sw 400. according to previous owner is 22km per litre. i might see wrongly the mileage. just pump up full tank will check how far it travel.

new SW-T400 wont blink blink when the fuel indicator drop to last level wor.... only red red area...

yah.. totally agree with you

when you reach the red area you still got another 3 to 4 litres....

which me average speed 100km/h = 24km/l

3l = 3 X 24 = 72km etimated..

 

Common FC of JDM SW 600cc

 

FJS 600cc : unknown cos no posts available

JDM 600cc : from around 17~21km/L

 

I was researching some difference btn SW400 and 600 and realised their FC defers quite a lot?

its actually damn a lot

my sw consumption is v bad. Everytime pump is ard 13-14Litres, about 250km on the odo (added:17~19+km/L). Normally when fuel hits reserve, i go looking for my usual SPC.

For my bike, mileage for 98 octane is better than 95. Maybe drag alot when using 95.

Haha, I dun like to push bike when tank's empty, so I din try to push it to the max like u.. haha.. 15.7L, another 300ml to empty sial.. Damn exciting loh.

 

I am riding a SW600. Actually am selling it too.... condition almost new

 

FC 20-21km/litre on mineral engine oil

wow, ur consumption is good.

Mine is only around 19km/l, on fully syn oil.

but most of the time 100km/h-130km/h..

what's ur normal riding speed to attain 20-21km/h?

Normally I ride between 90-110Km/hr...... at times 130Km/Hr....

Maybe my car is also CVT so I am more used to handling this kind of transmission... I never exceed 3500rpm for initial pickup.....

 

this is one example of FC for FJS ... lightweight rider + low wrist-power

Edited February 26, 2016 by scoobydoo

[big4rider]

Have you encounter this statement when you try to change your tires? Most shops do not have proper equipment to do rear tire balancing on silverwings and then they will tell you that it is not needed. "Just need to align the red dot with the valve stem and the balance is almost there already."

 

I've just changed my rear tire @ sporting motor and got them balanced. After aligning the red dot with the valve stem, a total of 60g of weights were still required.

 

Therefore, don't take their words granted when they say no balancing is needed.

 

"It is essential tire/wheel assemblies be balanced before use and rebalanced each time the tire is removed or replaced. Unbalanced tire/wheel assemblies can vibrate at certain speeds, and tire wear will be greatly accelerated." (http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/infocenter_tiretips.asp?id=16)

 

Anyway, please share any other places with rear balancing if you find them, thx!

[scoobydoo]

updated some... added unique motorsports

Edited January 26, 2011 by scoobydoo

[stevebucknor1]

Silverwing only uses two(2) spark plugs(not to worries about the changing of plugs cause the changing of plugs only occur after 20,000km of usage).Engine change is only 2 liters for non oil filter change and 2.2 liters for oil filter change.Normally i change my engine oil after every 2500km interval.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How to build muscle

[scoobydoo]

updated... see later post

Edited April 7, 2011 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

For riders who would like own a waterproof GPS unit, here's some suggestions:

 

(a) Nuvi 550/500 around US$260 from Amazon.com (before shipping), S$499 from JK Commercial in Sg (Nuvi 500)

(b) Zumo 220 around S$800 (online shop) ... physically identical to Nuvi 500/550.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51O63gbSLyL._AA160_.jpg

Difference between Nuvi 550 & Nuvi 500?

The only difference between the two new models is the preloaded maps - the nuvi 500 comes loaded with detailed street and topographic mapping for the lower 48 U.S. states, Hawaii and Puerto Rico, while the nuvi 550 comes with comprehensive street maps for the U.S. and Canada.

 

© Zumo 350 around S$1000 (online shop), new models for bikes

 

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/sites/motorcyclistonline.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/import/header_images/122-1303-01-o%2Bgarmin-zumo-350LM%2B_0.jpg?itok=uZ3v-8CH

 

(d) Zumo 550 around US$605 from Amazon.com (before shipping)

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51yPKSGkFYL._AA160_.jpg

 

(e) Zumo 660 around US$650 from Amazon.com (before shipping), S$990 from JK Commercial, S$870 at Sim Lim

Nuvi 660 comes in a complete set with RAM mount solutions.

What's Included In The Box?

http://www.touratech-usa.com/media/QelzhW/zumo660_lieferumfang.jpg?size=prodfull

The Garmin Zumo 660 ships with the following items included:

* Garmin Zumo 660 (View this item)

* Preloaded City Navigator® NT for North America (full coverage)

* Garmin City Navigator North America NT DVD 2010 (View this item)

* Garmin Zumo 220 550 660 665 Motorcycle Handle Base Assembly (View this item)

* Garmin Zumo 660 and 665 Motorcycle Cradle with Integrated Power Cable (View this item)

* Garmin Zumo 220 550 660 665 Motorcycle Handle Base Assembly (View this item)

* Garmin Zumo 660 and 665 Carry Case (View this item)

* Garmin Nuvi 5xx and Zumo 220 66x Lithium-Ion Battery (View this item)

* Garmin Zumo 660 and 665 Vehicle Suction Mount (View this item)

* Garmin Straight 18 Pin Cigarette Lighter Adapter (View this item)

* Garmin USB PC Cable (View this item)

* Garmin Single Large Adhesive Plate for Suction Cups (View this item)

* Quick Start Manual

 

More about Zumo 550 & 660:

http://www.webbikeworld.com/garmin-gps/garmin-zumo-660-review/

http://www.webbikeworld.com/garmin-gps/garmin-zumo-660-review/garmin-zumo-660-vs-zumo-550.htm

http://www.prades.net/zumo660/index.html

 

Why only Garmin?

We would like to have more options but unfortunately, only Garmin units come with weather/water proof capabilities, at least for the time being.

 

More information on GPS Personal Navigation Devices available in Singapore are available at

http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.com/p/gps-pnd.html

 

 

For the new owners who would like to install RAM Mounting kit on their beloved SW, here's some suggestions:

 

Cradle for Garmin Nuvi Units

for additional security, a RAM cradle for the GPS unit is highly recommended.

these cradles hold the GPS unit firmly in place and prevent the unit from falling out from the holder due to vibration or when the bike hits a hump or pothole.

Nuvi 550 (waterproof model) http://www.ram-mount.com/CatalogResults/PartDetails/tabid/63/partid/082065077045072079076045071065051050085/Default.aspx

http://www.ram-mount.com/Portals/0/PartImages/RAMHOLGA32U.JPG

 

Nuvi 1250 http://www.ram-mount.com/CatalogResults/PartDetails/tabid/63/partid/082065077045072079076045071065051051085/Default.aspx

 

Nuvi 1350 http://www.ram-mount.com/CatalogResults/PartDetails/tabid/63/partid/082065077045072079076045071065051052085/Default.aspx

 

Nuvi 1460 http://www.ram-mount.com/CatalogResults/PartDetails/tabid/63/partid/082065077045072079076045071065051053085/Default.aspx

 

a) Mount Ball in front of speedo, replacing one of the screws of handlebar top cover

 

Product Number: RAM-B-367U

http://www.ram-mount.com/Portals/0/PartImages/RAM-B-367U.jpg

http://www.ram-mount.com/Portals/0/PartImages/RAM-B-186U.jpg

 

Can also use the below type balls but needs a spacer (or an used roller) to fit the “depression” at the handlebar cover:

 

http://www.ram-mount.com/Portals/0/PartImages/RAMB252U.JPG

 

And if you're also into some fabrication works, can consider using both the screws that holds the centre handlebar cover. There's a "strong" point (not as strong as chassis parts or those holding the other tupperwares though) just below the cover which we can use.

See pic below... this mod is only for FJS/JDM models.

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/RAMcentre.jpg

 

Required materials:

* RAM diamond adaptor base

The screws came together with the pack when i bought it.

* 2x stainless steel long screws

Length is around 2", make sure the thread fits.

* 2x rubber washers

To go between the rollers and the tupperware to prevent damage on cover. DO NOT over tighten the screws.

* 2x spacers

Just go your scooter workshop and ask mech for some worn rollers, they have lots to throw away. SW rollers are too big, both in overall size (diameter) and centre hole. Size of centre hole should be just about nice for the screws to pass through, to help immobilise the assembly when mounted.

 

* Black spray paint

For cosmetic reasons; better to use the heat resistant ones cos out bike are exposed to sun baking.

 

b) Mount Ball on top of brake reservoir cover (usually left side)

 

Product Number: RAM-B-345U (ball in centre)

http://www.ram-mount.com/Portals/0/PartImages/RAMB345U.jpg

http://www.ram-mount.com/Portals/0/PartImages/RAM-B-182U.jpg

 

Product Number: RAM-B-346U (ball at side)

http://www.ram-mount.com/Portals/0/PartImages/RAM-B-346U.jpg

http://www.ram-mount.com/Portals/0/PartImages/RAM-B-183U.jpg

 

c) Mount Ball/Balls next to throttle assembly (usually left side)

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/RAMside1.jpg

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/RAMside2.jpg

 

Product Number: RAM-B-309-1U

http://www.ram-mount.com/Portals/0/PartImages/RAM-B-309-1U.jpg

 

Product Number: RAM-B-309-2U

Product Number: RAM-B-309-6U (permanent balls)

http://www.ram-mount.com/Portals/0/PartImages/RAMB3096U.JPG

 

http://www.ram-mount.com/Portals/0/PartImages/RAM-B-174U.jpg

 

Where to buy?

 

(1) Buy online, directly from RAM Mounting Systems, Inc.

http://www.ram-mount.com/

 

(2) Buy online, via Amazon.com & other resellers

http://www.amazon.com/

http://www.gpscity.com/rammounts

http://prubuy.com/index.php?k=RAM+mount&c=all

 

(3) RAM Reseller in Singapore... JK Commercials (look for “JK”)

http://www.jkcommercial.com.sg/

Prices will be higher than if you buy direct from US but hey! you pay for the convenience.

JK sets his prices with a markup over the "buy from US prices", so suggest do some homework before going down.

 

(4) Freelance sellers, nick is RidesAddon … see her MO thread

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/308076-***-lt-CMO-gt-Pyramids’-Fender-Extender-Motorcycle-GPS-Iphone-Mount-amp-etc…..***

 

(5) Mix-n-match purchases... "buy local" alternative

... buy the RAM cradle or whatever that RidesAddon doesn't have

... buy the rest from RidesAddon

 

Note: if buy online, can consider the below shipping options:

• Directly from US seller to your designated Singapore address

• US seller to ship to VPost USA, the ship via VPost to your designated Singapore address… may be cheaper

Amazon sometimes has free local (US) shipping offers; i.e. can have items shipped to your VPOSTUSA address, then ship back to Sg via VPOST (pay S$ for shipping).

https://www.vpost.com.sg/vpost/index1.jsp

 

Edited October 30, 2014 by scoobydoo

[etkach3]

Matching box with backrest and 12 lit storage

http://www.honda.co.jp/ACCESS/motorcycles/SILVER_WING_GT/backrest/image/photo1-1.jpg

http://www.honda.co.jp/ACCESS/motorcycles/SILVER_WING_GT/backrest/image/photo1-2.jpg

http://www.honda.co.jp/ACCESS/motorcycles/SILVER_WING_GT/backrest/image/photo1-3.jpg

http://www.honda.co.jp/ACCESS/motorcycles/SILVER_WING_GT/backrest/image/photo2-1.jpg

 

Nice

http://www.honda.co.jp/ACCESS/motorcycles/SILVER_WING_GT/shandlepipe/image/photo1-3.jpg

http://www.honda.co.jp/ACCESS/motorcycles/SILVER_WING_GT/shandlepipe/image/photo1-2.jpg

http://www.honda.co.jp/ACCESS/motorcycles/SILVER_WING_GT/gathersm/image/photo-shcc3.jpg

http://www.honda.co.jp/ACCESS/motorcycles/SILVER_WING_GT/gathersm/image/photo-shcc1.jpg

 

hi guys:) any idea where to get this box with back rest?

[CCT]

hi all, i m new here. been thinking of getting a maxi scooter choice between Suzu Burgman and Honda Silverwing, 400cc. also understand that silverwing comes with or without abs, dif in price is abt 1k, is the abs wirth the $1k? hmm... need somebody advise, before signing on dotted line... thanks

[CCT]

found these 2 nice write ups on silverwing and burgman:

http://www.mcnews.com.au/Testing/Honda/2009_SW400/Honda_Silver_Wing_Review.htm

http://www.onewheeldrive.net/2006/10/04/scoot-touring-the-honda-silverwing-and-suzuki-burgman/

looking for local review, anybody happened to know?

 

thanks.

[scoobydoo]

unless you're considering the burgman 650, the burgman 400 is not really in the same class of the SW... new OTR pricing is one thing, difference in resale value of the two bikes (of same age) tells a lot about their respective quality and desirability.

 

but of course it depends on the type of performance you're looking for. if you want something more zippy, lightweight and easy to handle, burgman may suit you. but if you're looking for silky smooth engine, stability and touring... the SW outperforms the burgman 400 anytime.

 

0.0002 yen worth of my personal opinion

[Fazli]

And if you read thru the SWing thread, you hardly will find an owner that has chronic problems with their SWing. I'm crossing over to SWing from my CB400 next year.

:)

[CCT]

thanks man... can advise if there is much dif between the one with and without abs? btw, i m currently on gsr400 without abs, hvn't got any experience with abs..

[kmkoon]

Don't try abs on swing.. Not worth it unless u ride very fast and u like to brake fast then u take abs.. Swing is a relax bike to ride.

Abs is 1k more than non abs but when anything happen wif the abs, u need more

than 1k to repair.. BecoZ once the abs spoil, it will lock your wheel and

u can't do anything unless the mech unlock for u, and it's not

easy to unlock.. but if nothing happen then it's ok la...

It's up to you to decide.. I'm just sharing some info hope this help

[CCT]

thanks guys... looked set to get SW..

hv been scouting a few shops actually, price ranging from $17k-$17.5k for non abs.. any advise on what is a good catch in term of pricing and standard package?

 

will join u all in SW cafe when i get it.. hope to go for some long distance ride after running in...

cheers.

[kmkoon]

thanks guys... looked set to get SW..

hv been scouting a few shops actually, price ranging from $17k-$17.5k for non abs.. any advise on what is a good catch in term of pricing and standard package?

 

will join u all in SW cafe when i get it.. hope to go for some long distance ride after running in...

cheers.

 

really ah the price now 17-17.5k???

i tot now the SW out of stock?? which shop u went??

[Elton]

17.5 otr? wow its really ex now.

I think asp got new container come in liao but its better to check with them

[scoobydoo]

thanks guys... looked set to get SW..

hv been scouting a few shops actually, price ranging from $17k-$17.5k for non abs.. any advise on what is a good catch in term of pricing and standard package?

 

will join u all in SW cafe when i get it.. hope to go for some long distance ride after running in...

cheers.

SW pricing all around there, unless kenna chopped or buy from Boon Siew (agent). some popular shops to buy new SW are Looi's, ASP, M1, Mah. can also Bike Production (if not taking loan) cos their prices sometimes very competitive even after the "no loan topup"

 

dun have to ride a SW to join our gatherings... we have Silver Wings (of course), Gold Wing, BMW, Vespa, Forza, FZ6, Adiva, etc. in the group, soon may get to see the new downtown 300i. come in BMW BMX also can

 

long distance riding? we're touring to Ko Samui this april... interested?

check this our http://thehouseofdaviz.blogspot.com/

[CCT]

hi Scooby and guys, thanks. i managed to get my SW thru Sin Boon Motor at Northlink. He told me there is new shipment, and Boon Siew has ready stock for white. i am getting white from him expected to arrived by this week.

 

any advise on running in and oil change?

 

abt the Ko Samui trip, i think now this time- i may ended up being a burden to your convoy... :-)

anyway, thanks for the invitation, will start with somewhere nearer, if there is...

[kmkoon]

hi Scooby and guys, thanks. i managed to get my SW thru Sin Boon Motor at Northlink. He told me there is new shipment, and Boon Siew has ready stock for white. i am getting white from him expected to arrived by this week.

 

any advise on running in and oil change?

 

abt the Ko Samui trip, i think now this time- i may ended up being a burden to your convoy... :-)

anyway, thanks for the invitation, will start with somewhere nearer, if there is...

 

how much they quote you??