<Info> Silverwing 400cc / 600cc Tech Corner

[ploor]

SW fuel consumption can easily hit 26-27km if you cruise gently like me. Very low maintenance which is the reason I switched from X9. And also it has good resale value.

[limkim]

Hi ploor,

 

if compare to s4 spec3? is the maintenance lower?

My spec 3 FC is around 21-22KM.

[ploor]

For Maxi scooter, SW is considered one of the better ones

Maintenance is quite low becos you hardly ram with scooter. Just do normal servicing every 5k, 10k, 20k should be ok. Look at all the tips posted on the SW tech forum, very comprehensive and I picked up quite a lot from there

[Pokemon22]

The problem is riding my sym to work everyday.. The bike cannot take it i guess.. And for a long trip (pris-tuas) i can only maintain the bike at 80km/h.. More than that the bike will be warded..lol..

 

 

 

Just curious, what kind of problem is the SYM giving you?

 

IMHO, any 400cc will be very good for local commute, in your case, around 60km a day.

 

and yes, silverwing will be very nice for your usage, very good storage space, easy and low maintenance cost, stable at speed up to 140kmh(if you are late for work), one of the most comfy pillion seat other than goldwing and smooth. Also, there's a nice silverwing community. ^^

[Pokemon22]

Thanks for the advise guys....!

 

I watch youtube, the maxsym 400 very nicceee...

[scoobydoo]

The problem is riding my sym to work everyday.. The bike cannot take it i guess.. And for a long trip (pris-tuas) i can only maintain the bike at 80km/h.. More than that the bike will be warded..lol..

there's a few of us "touring" singapore on a daily basis... 80km/h is too slow for SW liow

imo, most comfortable commuting speed along the expressways of sinkapor is about 90++km/h (hope no uncle sam reading this). super smooth feel/ride, negligible vibrations, feel no stress on the engine at all

along NS highway, preferred/comfortable speed is 130+km/h, even though sometimes need to throttle up for sprints of 150+km/h, in attempt to catch-up with some fella leading ahead

 

pasir ris to tuas? no problem lah... i clock >65km each day to-fro work on my FJS and SW9000 does even more on his FJS/SWT/SWT... whahahaha

i'm still confident to take my 2006 FJS to ko samui thailand next April, that a few thousand km over 10D9N. as long as well maintained, 5+ years old SW also no worries. hey, a well maintained 50+ swee lady will still be very desirable, and performable too

Edited October 28, 2011 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

Specs for Motorcycle License Plates

 

I've found some useful posts and would like to add it here for future reference...

 

- - -

 

This is the specs sheet given to me during my inspection at VICOM... i was given a warning but not penalised/failed

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Misc/License.jpg

 

- - -

Extracts from LTA's letter in reply to a biker's queries:

 

... technical requirements for motorcycle licence plates used in Singapore can be found in Rule 15 and Fourth Schedule of the Road Traffic (Motor Vehicles, Registration and Licensing) Rules.

 

Color Code:

a) Letters and figures are white, silver or light grey on a non-reflective black background for both front and rear; or

b) Letter and figures are black on a white reflex-reflecting background for the front, and on a yellow reflex-reflecting background for the rear.

 

Front Plate Dimensions:

a) The letters and figures are 35 mm high, 25 mm wide and 5 mm broad;

b) The space between adjoining letters and between adjoining figures shall be 5 mm;

c) The space between the letters and figures shall be 10 mm;

d) A margin between the nearest part of any letter or figure and the top

or bottom of the number plate shall be 5 mm;

e) A margin between the nearest part of any letter or figure and the sides of the licence plate shall be 10 mm.

 

Rear Plate Dimensions:

a) The letters and figures are 50 mm high, 30 mm wide and 5 mm broad;

b) The space between adjoining letters and between adjoining figures shall be 10 mm;

c) The space between the letters and figures shall be 20 mm;

d) A margin between the nearest part of any letter or figure and the top, bottom and sides of the licence plate shall be 10 mm.

e) For licence plate that consists of 2 rows of figures and letters, the space the 2 rows shall be 10 mm.

 

Sticker "Plates" at the Front for SW

With regards to your enquiry on sticker number plate, we wish to inform you that generally we do not allow owners to affix number plates that are of the sticker-type on their vehicles. We would however consider, on a case-by-case basis, the use of such sticker-type number plates on vehicles that do not have an adequate space/location for affixing conventional licence plates (i.e. those made of aluminium or acrylic material).

 

Reference: Dimension & Specification for Number Plates from LTA

 

- - -

 

Reference: LTA One Motoring Website

 

http://www.onemotoring.com.sg/publish/onemotoring/en/lta_information_guidelines/buy_a_new_vehicle/vehicle_licence_plate.MainPar.0025.Image.gif

 

In the case of motorcycle, the front licence plate may be reduced by halved of the above dimensions due to the slight curvature of the mudguard.

 

The rear licence plate of motorcycle shall meet the following requirements:

* the letters and figures are 50 mm high, 30 mm wide and 5 mm broad;

* the space between adjoining letters and between adjoining figures shall be 10 mm;

* the space between the letters and figures shall be 20 mm; and

* a margin between the nearest part of any letter or figure and the top, bottom and sides of the vehicle licence plate shall be 10 mm.

 

- - -

 

Cheers

Edited December 29, 2011 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

Engine Right Side Cover Leaking... Re-Sealing

One of the common issues of SW...

Many SWingers have experienced leaking at the engine right side cover where the magnetic coil is housed (see pic/quote below). While some may consider this is a smallish issue (not even a problem), it is one that cannot be neglected as engine oil is the lifeblood of our SW's engine and proper amount is necessary for its performance's longevity.

 

Just realised my 4 year old is developing a slight leak at the right crankcase cover.

 

This is how it looked like, with small black oil deposits and a oil-stained exhaust header:

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Crankcase/98389ab1.jpg

 

This is how it should look like:

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Crankcase/0f61da0c.jpg

 

Common problem. Intend to make a gasket instead of using high temp silicone as don't trust my gluing skills.

 

From my observation, leak occurs at the cables going into the crankcase and not at the gasket.

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Crankcase/ee659d59.jpg

 

YES ! All had leaks at the alternator (Magnetto) cover after about 20,000Kms I just put it down to the poor jointing seal and the Synthetic oil being able to find even the tinniest way out when it gets hot and pressure goes up. I never worried about it and just carried a Top up of EO on long trips. Even present one beginning to weep slightly. If you can tolerate the WEEP - just leave it alone.

 

hi Kris

have you encountered eo seeping out from the right side magneto cover joint on any of your 3 SWs?

 

i've heard from 2 different mechs that this is a common problem in SW (and many other modern bikes) due to the use of gasket adhesives instead of the good-old gaskets. the joints are pricision machined and a thin layer of RTV gasket adhesive (think better ones are silicone based for better sealing properties) is used to close off the smaller than "hairline" gap. problem occurs when the adhesive is not properly applied or insufficient time is allowed for curing before putting the joints together. worse when excessive amounts are used such that the excess squeezed out from the pressure comes off inside and becomes a hazard to the internal combustion engine (read this https://mercedessource.com/node/82).

 

HelmetBOX! got his SW fixed under warranty...

common problem..

mine last time last then 6monhts or maybe 6 month also leak.

so i went back to BS and got it done for free

 

 

What to look out for when re-sealing...

should be around $50, at least $100 if go BS (not recommended)

u should try asking around... only a few shops to check with

 

proper sealing of the side cover needs to take note these areas:

a) all contact surfaces should be clean, dry, free from oil/dirt

b) better to used hi-temp RTV silicone glue instead of the normal gasket glue

c) proper application: surfaces sufficiently covered but not too thick (will result in too much excess when cover is put/bolted together)

d) sufficient curing time (depends on the glue used): usually need to allow for at least 15-30mins before putting/bolting the cover back in place. after putting back, allow for another 15-30mins for "stabilising" before starting engine.

e) bolting pressure (2 stages): initial bolting should firm and not tight, enough to displace air but not the glue. too tight will squeeze the glue out resulting in a too thin "gasket". bolt the cover firmly and tightly in place after the "stabilising" period".

f) although not stated in glue manual, avoid stressing the new gasket by riding at lower rpms when riding home. mech recommend me to let it rest for a night before going high rpms.

 

there're only a small handful of motortiams that are familiar with SW. even BS is not trustable (i had 2 bad experiences). some shops (even the established ones) will claim that they can do the SW. but frankly, any how trust them will result in even more problems... liow lui liow si kan liow jeng sin

{translation: waste $$ waste time waste energy}

 

noticed that the red one is used, and sparingly too... can see lots of excess being squeezed out upon tightening the bolts. outside no issue, but inside... heh heh. do a google and you'll find posts telling you some potential undesirable outcomes. in any case, proper finishing should have the unsightly excess cleaned up... easily job by using a pen knife; can also use wet cloth to wipe off before the glue "hardens".

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=108443&d=1244719224

 

 

 

 

Acknowledgments:

Many thanks to fellow SWingers for their contributions, especially when they take the pain to take pics for illustrations... all for the good of the SW community

Edited April 27, 2012 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

Spare Parts? Honda Silver Wing

 

Sometimes, we wonder if the motortiams are charging us reasonable prices for the parts we change at the respective shops. One way to judge the "reasonableness" is to find out the general prices of the items we are changing. Do remember the cost-plus factor as ALL shops exists to earn profits!!! Else, how to pay for their operations and salaries... difference is in the margin they charge. I guess reasonableness also depends on the level of service provided... cheap but crappy service, I'll skip too.

 

打开门做生意... 不赚钱做个屁啊

But if you know of any shop that do otherwise, do share with us... cos we all would be very interested to try its service

 

 

So how to estimate the parts' prices?

* Call any of the Honda parts suppliers... recommended

* Call Boon Siew parts centre... high markups

* Check Internet/Online shops... especially aftermarket stuffs

 

 

Honda Parts Suppliers (Singapore)

http://www.boonsiewhonda.com.sg/boonsiew/dealers.asp?section=parts

Note that whenever you call these shops, they will ask you who you are. Why? My guess is that the motortiams gets "members" price although most (if not all) of them claims otherwise. Just think about it... would you give preferential pricing to the regular customers (motortiams) if you are running the parts business?

 

F.J.T. Parts & Accessories

Add: 15 Rowell Road, Singapore 207973

Tel: +65 6392 5928

Fax: +65 6392 5929

 

Ever Success Auto Parts Pte Ltd

Add: 17 Lembu Road, Singapore 208450

Tel: +65 6292 5909

Fax: +65 6293 4741

 

Everfit Motor Pte Ltd

Add: 96 Desker Road, Singapore 209618

Tel: +65 6293 8925

Fax: +65 6291 4576

Web: http://www.everfitmotor.com/

 

Chong Aik International Pte Ltd

Add: 50 Desker Road, Singapore 209581

Tel: +65 6291 2532

Fax: +65 6392 1903

Web: http://www.chongaik.com.sg/outlets

 

 

Internet/Online Shops

 

Alternative is to check out some online stores, some of which carry desirable aftermarket parts for SW such as the Hyperpro fork springs, EBC brake pads, etc.

Do remember to factor in the exchange (some of them are more expensive than the local parts suppliers after conversion to SGD) and shipping charges if you intend to buy from them.

 

Wemoto (UK)

http://www.wemoto.com/

FJS400 till 2008

FJS400 2009

SWT-600 (not sure if all parts can fit SWT400)

(this is where we can get Hyperpro for a competitive price)

 

Honda Parts House.com

http://www.hondapartshouse.com/home.aspx

 

BikeBandit.com

http://www.bikebandit.com/2006-honda-silver-wing-motorcycle-parts/oem-parts/s/mg70613

 

 

Others...

 

Cee Baileys

http://www.ceebaileys.com/honda/silverwingws.html

(this is where we can get windshields, windshield protectors for FJS models)

 

 

[scoobydoo]

Adjusting Headlight Angle

 

The SW's headlight assembly comprise of the headlight unit (main case), single piece multi-reflector (inside), 2x H7 bulb sockets, connector wires, etc. See page 54 (2-2) of SW parts catalogue on Headlight.

 

The multi-reflector (aka mirror) reflects light generated by the 2x H7 bulbs and sends them forward. Thus, by adjusting the mirror's angle, we can "move" the light beams up, down, left or right. Unfortunately, adjusting the single reflector adjusts both low and high beams together, not separately.

The reflector's angle may be adjusted via 2 knobs ("bolts") on the headlight unit's back-plate.

The knobs are accessible via the "hole" below the head cowl just above the front mudguard, see illustration pic below.

 

This is how I reach for the knob to adjust the headlight beam up or down:

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/Adj_Headlight.jpg

 

Illustration below shows the correct direction to turn the knobs:

http://silverwing.org/mwf/attach/65/6065/HEADLIGHTS.jpg

 

Up or Down

Knob on the left (at 8 o'clock position from high beam's socket) is used to adjust the mirror (thus headlight beams) up or down. No tool is required as it can be turned using fingers.

http://silverwing.org/mwf/attach/65/6065/UP_DOWN.jpg

 

Left or Right

Knob on right (at 2 o'clock position from high beam's socket) is used to adjust the mirror (thus headlight beams) left or right. A small screwdriver or spanner is required.

http://silverwing.org/mwf/attach/65/6065/LEFT_RIGHT.jpg

 

 

Procedures:

1. Park bike on main stand, about 5~8 metres away and facing a wall. You can't see the pre-post adjustment difference if too close.

2. Turn on the ignition/headlight (low beam) and note the position of the beam; no need to start engine as process takes only a while.

3. We recommend using a sticker or masking tape to mark the top "line" of the beam.

4. Locate the relevant adjusting knobs and turn them in the correct directions to adjust the beams as desired.

5. Note the new position after adjustment.

6. Whoala

 

 

Reference thread...

http://silverwing.org/cgi-bin/topic_show.pl?pid=6065;hl=headlight#pid6065

 

1. Park your Honda Silverwing directly in front of a vertical, flat wall, such as a garage door.

2. Have a friend hold the steering column so that you can place a horizontal strip of tape on the wall directly in front of the headlights.

3. Measure 10 feet behind the wall and place a strip of tape on that spot. Reverse the Honda Silverwing until the headlight lines up with the tape on the ground. Turn on the headlights.

4. Stand next to the headlights and insert the Phillips head screwdriver into the adjustment screw. Twist it to change the vertical height of the beam. Aim the beam so that it falls within a couple inches below the horizontal strip of tape on the wall. Repeat this process for the other beam.

 

 

http://www.ehow.com/how_7309116_adjust-headlight-silverwing.html

Edited February 16, 2012 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

Brake Pads

 

There are many types of brake pads available, ranging from very soft & aggressive (racing/performance series) to harder & durable (less aggressive) compounds. Which is more suitable depends on the intended use and personal preference, although it is always better to use those whose specs are recommended by the manufacturers. Care must always be taken when fitting aftermarket (non-standard) brake pads, as operating temperature ranges may vary; e.g. performance pads are design to deliver when hot so may not be as effective under "cold" use.

 

Organic pads are generally made with man-made fibres such as Kevlar or Twaron bonded together with a petrochemical resin.

Semi-metallic pads are blended with up to 30 or 50% steel fibre.

Sintered pads are copper alloy fused together under heat and pressure.

 

Some pads manufacturers' claim that sintered pads accommodate higher temperatures with less heat fade, generate less noise & dust, and cause less wear on both the pads and rotors. However, empirical evidence showed that these "metallic" based pads wears the rotor faster than the organic pads.

 

 

Brake Pads for SW

 

The braking capability of a bike is among the most important performance aspect for safety; applies to all bikes as well. Brake pads are subject to wear-n-tear of which wear rate depends on the riders riding and braking pattern, other than the make/materials of the pads.

 

Generally, the more 吃 (jia) is the pad, the more it will wear (aka makan) the brake disc down. i.e. if you use a high-braking pad, do expect faster higher wear-n-tear on your brake discs.

While some switched to aftermarket performance pads, some prefers to stick to stock pads... its a matter of choice.

 

 

How much does the stock brake pads cost?

 

the cost of your rear original brake pads is abt $60+. but at shops, they will charge slightly higher cos they need to go take and install for u. original pads will not spoil your disc as fast as other after market types. thats why it will cost slightly more.

 

 

What aftermarket pads are used by SWingers, other than the stock ones?

 

Noted, thanks. already changed to braking brand.

 

(a) check the SW parts catalogue for part nos.

or

(b) call FJT and say you want stock pads for SW, they will know cos they have catalogue too

or

© see below link for model of EBC pads for SW

http://www.compacc.com/p/EBC-Brake-Pads-Shoes-Honda-FJS400-D6-Silverwing-2006

http://www.jcmotors.com/p-22918-ebc-organic-kevlar-front-brake-pads-for-honda-silverwing-fsc-600-02-09-and-reflex-nss-250-01-07.aspx

see EBC catalogue... pg 23 for FJS 400 & SW-T 400

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/Assets/2010-UK-MC-Catalogue.pdf

 

some of the SWingers also tried goldfren, braking, etc. other than sticking to the stock ones which are rather pricey as well

 

there were some posts in the past on brake pads, i'll collate and put up on tech corner for easy reference.

 

some riders choose to use HH at front & organic at rear, that's still ok but NEVER the other way round; using organic at front & HH for rear increases the bike's skating "capabilities"

If you have the tools, it's easy and fast. If only gravity, takes longer and more steps. Else, pay shop to do as don't change brake fluid so fast. Not more than $20 include fluid.

 

Using EBC for coming to 2 years and 17kkm.

me too... got my EBC HH on both front (FA261HH) n rear (FA196HH) from Unique Motorsports, cost $65 for each pair including labor. suggest you call Alec to confirm price before going down.

 

there's a MO going on for EBC pads.

M.O for EBC brake pads

but i remember the savings are not much and after paying for labor... sama sama le

 

agreed ! Goldfren brakepads not so good either..lots of dusts and eats disc ! Original is better, long lasting and dont eat disc so much.

 

My rear Gold Fren (sm) pads lasted me abt 12k km. Is that normal? Got any brands good and last a bit longer?

 

EBC Front FA261HH

EBC Rear FA196HH

so far no issue for me. hard-braking everyday. These 'HH' pads have less brake dust than original pads.

 

funny that pg 23 of EBC 2010 catalogue listed front is using 281 (SWT-400 using 388) instead of 261... searched internet sellers and mostly come up with 261... hmmm

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/EBCPads.jpg?t=1288240214

 

update: according to Sporting (local distributor)

... differences in FA261 & FA281 are in the compound used and the gap on the pad surface; see pg 257 for FA261 and pg 264 for FA281

... both FA261HH & FA281/HH can be used for SW, not sure about the FA388 for SWT-400 but the 388's shapes are slightly different.

... feedback given was that FA261HH (they didn't bring in FA261) has more braking power than the FA281HH. however, FA261HH may "eat" the disc faster

... incl. installation, FA261HH is abt $79, FA281 abt $28, FA281HH must check; brake disc MD1006 abt $190; further discount if do pads & disc together. prices of other shops may vary.

 

i learned something today

 

I can only say that the EBC double-H are not worse off than stock in terms of braking power. Maybe I don't brake hard enough or only covered too short a distance (200km) to make a difference. The brakes bed in quite fast and they do feel better over time. I do noticed that there's less brake dust though.

 

The rear stock brake pads were more worn than the front when I changed. Could be that the previous owner used more rear brake or is it generally so?

 

how much are the stock brake pads?

 

imo, the brake system has to be the best within the whole bike systems. Don't mind spending a bit more on it if it's really good. It just need to save me once from a collision and will be worth whatever money spent on it

 

 

 

 

Some images of worn brake discs... courtesy of ex-SWinger Fusionjaz

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/5122447243_afdb494695.jpg

 

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4127/5122447157_26922ffb9b.jpg

 

 

happy braking

Edited February 17, 2012 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

Comprehensive Insurance?

 

Motorcycle insurance coverage is required in Singapore (and many countries) whether we own a small cheap

 

With the many insurers available in the market, choosing a suitable plan may require quite some homework...

there is no correct insurance policy but just suitable ones that meet each rider’s needs.

 

3 General Categories of Insurance Coverage

for Motorcycles in Singapore (applies for cars too)

 

(i) Third party - This type of policy covers death of, or injury to, other parties and damage to other people's property. Under the law, the minimum requirement is that the policy provides cover for causing death of, or personal injury to, other parties.

 

(ii) Third party, fire and theft - On top of third party coverage, this type of policy further allows you to make a claim should your own vehicle be stolen or damaged by fire.

 

(iii) Comprehensive - This type of policy provides cover for personal accident and accidental damage to your vehicle on top of protection against fire and theft, as well as third party death, injuries and property damage. Everything else being equal, this type of policy would thus cost more than other types of policies. Even so, most people opt for a comprehensive policy because of the peace of mind it brings. You may even be able to add on optional benefits, such as coverage for windscreen damage, by paying a higher premium.

 

Why Comprehensive?

(when 3rd Party is already "road legal")

 

Simple reason... the restoration of a SW to "prime" condition costs quite a hole in the pocket; no issue if money no issue but for most of us, "money no enough"

 

Apart from the coverage for fire-n-theft (payout is miserably low) over the minimum requirement of 3rd party, comprehensive coverage protects the insured wallet from $$ avalanche to restore the SW in the event of a skidding or crash/impact accident. The SW scooter's aesthetics comprised of many fragile Honda components such as headlight unit (near $500), meter unit (>$ 500), tupperwares (e.g. head cowl approx $400, rear side panels approx $180 each), windshield (>$300), patching-n-painting, labour charges, etc. These components usually gets damaged and needs replacement/restoration after a skid and/or fall (far worse than off-road and naked bikes). You’ll be surprised how easily the bill crosses $1.5k to restore a SW swee swee after a skidding accident (without crashing into “obstacles”).

 

The premium for comprehensive coverage is usually about $150~$200 higher than 3PFT; really affordable for the additional protection and peace of mind. At least we know the damage on our wallet could be limited to the excess of $500~$750, depending on the policy’s terms and conditions. For info, the "recoverable" amount for scrapping the SW is really miserable; basically the residual value of COE plus chow tee monies... we'll probably get more from dismantling and selling the parts separately.

 

Comprehensive Coverage 5 years and above?

 

Getting comprehensive coverage for a brand new bikes are easy, just pay. For used bikes of

 

Here's a valuable contribution from one of the kakis who recently got comprehensive coverage for his 5 year old SW...

Contribution from TitanicLexus

Information for sharing;

 

To those who wish to renew their comprehensive motor insurance but due to their bike already more than 5 years old, and the insurance company like NTUC not allow to extend or coverage it. Now you can go for "Liberty insurance", can purchase through Anda Insurance Agencies Pte Ltd, located at 18 Sin Ming Lane, #02-10 Midview City, Singapore 573960, Tel: 6554 2288. They accepted my SW policy today.

 

The different between the NTUC and Liberty Comprehensive insurance are:

1. NTUC cover excess $500 but Liberty cover excess $750 onward, personal top up of $250 more than NTUC.

2. If your bike stolen outside Singapore, compensation an amount of equal to 50% of the market value of your vehicle at the time of loss. (I have checked my NTUC policy, this term is the same, anyone can further confirm?)

 

Additional info for sharing:

1. If your bike required for repair, only allow to send to their agency/authorised bike shop (Looi Motor is one of the bikeshop).

2. I have called Looi Motor earlier to enquiry whether there is any comprehensive insurance for bike more than 5 years, but was told the same they don't have any insurance company accept it?

3. When happen to know Looi motor is one of the repair bike shop today, I have told the staff I have asked Looi motor for the comprehensive insurance before but not been shared for Liberty Insurance can covered?

4. The staff told me that Liberty Insurance is not popular and they previously only covered comprehensive insurance for 600cc motorcycle above and recently they extend to 400cc only, maybe Looi motor not aware? Hmm... not sure is it truth? Anyway, as long as I got the coverage will do, I think no one is interested to claim it bah.

 

For the price wise, I think more or less same as NTUC? I managed to get the full NCD from Liberty Insurance (need to show your NCD from your previous insurance company), total costs S$473.37 (third party fire n theft oso cost me S$300 plus from NTUC), paid S$170 more to have more coverage, worth it.

 

:cheers:

 

 

Factors to Consider During Selection

 

Insurance Premium

Goes without saying, price is of course one of the key deciding factors. Price of each plan depends on level of coverage, excess and/or workshop options, amount of NCD, age and experience of the insured, etc.

Basically, “how much is your budget?”

 

Level of Coverage

Level of coverage suitable for a particular rider depends on factors such as level of risk (e.g. local riding or touring, weekend bike or daily commuting bike, safe environment or busy/rugged terrain, type of bike, etc.), age of bike, market value, availability and cost of bike’s parts, etc.

Note:Except where additional coverage are purchased, all the above insurance plans do not cover the insured riders (including named riders), even for comprehensive plans. Pillion riders shall claim the riders' insurance policies as 3rd parties.

i.e. riders need to purchase separate insurance plans (e.g. Personal Accident) to cover their own medical expenses in the event of an accident.

 

Potential Cost of Self Repair

If the cost of repairing or “writing off” the bike is only a small sum, most riders would consider only a 3rd party plan. On the other hand, if the bike is one that could cost thousands to repair/restore when damaged, a Comprehensive plan is highly recommended.

 

No Claim Discount (NCD)

NCD is usually transferrable among insurers in Singapore. Insurers may need proof or documentations for verification before they grant the NCD claimed by the rider to be insured. Renewal notice indicating the amount of NCD granted from the last insurance company is a commonly used proof. Some insurers give additional 5% NCD as a bonus to encourage renewals with them (customer retention).

 

Excess & Minimum Claim

Excess is the amount which biker/insured needs to bear in respect of a claim before the insurer indemnify the claim.

Most insurers impose a minimum claim amount whereby loss or damage claims less than a stipulated amount would not be paid for by the insurer. The amount of excess vary among insurers, policies and premiums; some policies allow excess to be lowered at higher premiums.

Excess amounts may also vary in different situations of claims such as local claims, overseas claims, loss in Singapore, loss outside Singapore, etc.

 

E.g. an additional excess equal to 50% of bike’s market value at time of loss subject to a maximum of $2.5K if bike is stolen outside Singapore. i.e. if market value of your SW is $9K and it is unfortunately stolen during a shopping trip to JB, then total excess payable before claim could be $3K ($500 normal excess + $2.5K capped overseas excess); more unfortunate if market value is only $5K as total excess is still $3K, but can claim only $2K; most unfortunate if market value is only $3K, can't claim any amount after factoring in total excess.

 

Note:

The market value of a bike to the insurers is not the same market value to the owners. For owners, we commonly view the market value as "how much it could be sold in the market". For insurers, they usually value the bike at paper value... commonly the sum of residual value of COE, value of bike in scrap/spares market, plus a little "premium".

 

Workshop of Choice

Only applicable to comprehensive plans. Most insurers offer different premium with different levels of customer options. While some plans allow the insured to carry out the repairs/restorations at workshops of their choice, some plans restricts the jobs to their designated workshops (with options to remove such restriction at higher premiums).

 

E.g. NTUC motorcycle insurance has price plans such as Classic or Classic Plus which require the biker/insured to go only to NTUC designated workshops in times of a claim. It also has Premium and Premium Plus plans where biker/insured may choose to repair his/her bike at workshops of their choice; premiums are much higher for such plans.

 

Geographical Limits

Generally, most local policies cover claim incidents arising within Singapore, West Malaysia and a restricted part of Southern Thailand demarcated by distance from Thai-Malaysian borders, subject to terms and conditions.

Question here is, how the distance is being measured?

From which point of Malaysia-Thai border? From nearest border line, or from nearest immigration checkpoint, or from point of entry?

Straight line distance, or based on shortest route?

 

E.g. Direct Asia and NTUC motorcycle insurance plans covers the insured up to 80km from the Thai-West Malaysian border. i.e. if accident occurs at places outside the coverage boundary (e.g. Krabi, Phuket, Bangkok, etc.), the insurer will not be liable for any damages (including 3rd parties) incurred in the accident.

 

Note:

Temporary 3rd party insurance in Thailand is available at affordable prices/premiums near the Sadao immigration. However, it covers only human/life and livestock of the involved 3rd parties, vehicles of all parties are not covered.

 

Exclusions

Exclusion clauses by most insurers are similar, with minor differences if any.

E.g. war related incidents/activities, rebellion/riots, consequential loss, mechanical or electrical breakdowns due to wear-n-tear, loss or damage to accessories or parts due to theft, when in use by unauthorized user, etc. Note:

One tricky issue is with touring... best to check with your insurers.

 

Most insurers accept that "as long as the activity is not excluded in the policy document, coverage is available". i.e. as long as we are using the motorcycle for commuting between cities in the covered zones (see geographical limits), we should be covered.

 

Nevertheless, a travel insurance (and Thai 3rd party if riding into Thailand) policy is highly recommended for touring to supplement the additional coverage needs which are not covered by the usual motorcycle insurance policies.

e.g. medical claims for injuries or sickness, travel delays, loss of monies/baggage/travel documents, repatriation, emergency evacuation, etc.

 

Declared Usage

Some insurers require the insured to declare the purpose or usage of the bike being insured. Any damages sustained during an undeclared/uncovered usage could void the insurers' liability to pay for the repairs/restorations.

 

 

Best Policy = Safety Policy

"Regardless of policy chosen and premium paid, ideal situation is not to need it".

 

 

Recommended Coverage for Bikers

 

With so many different types of insurance plans available, what are the recommended policies/plans that a rider should have?

 

Let's not include those non “riding related” plans such as investments, life/term, critical illness, savings and retirement plans, etc. in this discussion.

 

(1) Motorcycle Insurance

No choice cos mandatory by LTA.

Comprehensive, 2nd party or just 3rd party depends on individual needs/preferences.

 

(2) Personal Accident Insurance

This is to cover the insured/rider’s medical expenses incurred due to the accident (on a reimbursement basis), limited to the amount covered (different premium applies). Expenses Rider must ensure that the PA plan covers motorcycling before purchase.

 

(3) Medical/Hospitalisation Insurance

Commonly referred to as “Hospitalisation and Surgical” plan.Medical expenses when rider is hospitalized and/or surgical procedures are usually very high, easily exceeding the amounts covered in PA plans. Medical plans are useful in such cases. This plan does not cover expenses where the rider is not hospitalized but receives outpatient or “1-day” treatments… rider to claim under PA plans.Coverage of medical plans are not restricted to accidents.

 

(4) Travel Insurance

Strongly recommended if rider goes overseas for touring, makan or shopping trips.

Especially important when riding into Thailand and places beyond the covered “geographical boundaries” of his/her Singapore motorcycle insurance.

 

(5) Thailand Temporary 3rd Party Insurance

Only required when the rider rides into Thailand, especially when travelling beyond the covered “geographical boundaries” of his/her motorcycle insurance.

 

 

Tricky situation...

 

All (if not wrong) insurance policies covers the bike up to market value; please check the terms and conditions of your policies. Problem is, their assessment for market value is different from ours (how much the bike is worth in the resale market). I heard from a friend that it's based on paper (scrap) value plus "spare parts" value. i.e. suppose the repairs is surveyed to costs $4k and insurer assessed market value as only $3k (even though similar bike is fetching about $5k), they may deem that damage is "beyond economic repair" and just pay $3k... in theory.

Wonder how many insurers actually has done that

 

 

Other good reads:

 

Making Sense of Motor Insurance (MAS)

http://www.moneysense.gov.sg/publications/quick_tips/Consumer_Portal_MakingSenseofMotorInsurance.html

 

 

Cheers

Edited April 14, 2016 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

Touring on Honda Silver Wing?

(based on our collective experiences)

 

The Honda Silver Wing (SW) is a maxi-scooter that is suitable for both city rides and touring (not off road though). Apart from its good looks, it provides reasonably good wind-blast protection (even at higher speeds), sufficient leg space (if the Westerners can fit, Asians should have less problems) for prolonged rides, large comfortable seat and a whopping 55-liter storage compartment under it. Top it up with a Givi E52 Maxia, I have a total of >100l of storage space for my barang-barangs and shopping.

 

* How Far Can the SW Go?

 

Personally, I've only taken my SW as far as Krabi (visiting Ko Samui in Apr 2012) but have heard of others visiting northern Thailand on it. But if willing to ship/fly the ride, can consider riding/meeting with American or European SWingers. As long as there're proper roads and suitable fuel, it can go places.

It's a Honda, and Honda makes reliable bikes. But for prudence, I'ld say it can go anywhere as long as it can be serviced during a breakdown

 

One of the bros is riding his SW to Chiang Mai this Apr 2012 and SW9000 is going to run his SWT400 to "Mae Hong Son" (Northern Thailand) in end 2012. Going uphill? No worries. Many of us have ridden the SW comfortably up Cameron Highlands and Genting many times. Its a real comfort going up the zig-zaggy hill roads with the CVT compared to having to change gear every now-n-then while negotiating the bends.

 

Problem when on tour? Of course there are as no bike is perfect.

Its not a bike that could be easily repaired during a breakdown when overseas. Even if you have the know-how, finding the spares is an issue cos there aren't many SW in peninsular Malaysia (last heard there're

Among the most important tour preparation is, to make sure your tour buddy (the SW) is well maintained so as to minimise the risk of a breakdown.

 

* SW's Typical Fuel Consumption (FC)?

 

Other than the comfort, the FJS400 SW's silky smooth parallel twin engine delivers 23~25km/l in the city and +/-21km/l on the highways (average speed of 130+km/h on NSHW). With a 16l fuel tank, I can run 250km comfortably on the NSHW before needing to look for refuel; it has a reserve of 4l.

Needless to say, FC differs from bike to bike and bikers even when on the same route; contributing factors are bike setup/maintenance, bike age, biker's wrist power, etc. Some SWingers we know experienced FC of around 20~21km/l even on local rides.

It's always good to know your own bike's FC and tank ranges, they are important for planning.

 

* Comfortable Speed for SW?

Buying a 2007 SW next week, can I ask is SW400 suitable for NSHW touring? Can it cruise 140km/h easily?

Yes. Many have toured w the Silverwing. So far I think the record is MHS. 140km/h, can. Anything higher, abit hard.

 

Just like the reply, the SW is capable of cruising comfortably at around 130~140km/h on the NSHW, no issue. But safe speed would depend on the conditions at time of touring, such as visibility, road conditions, traffic density, etc.

 

The SW is rated with max torque around 6.5k rpm and max power around 7.5+k rpm. It is able to cruise comfortably around 130~140km/h with some spare for overtaking... my preferred SOA is around 130km/h, very comfortable

 

Do note that legal speed limit at most sections of the NSHW is 110km/h. Run above that? Standby to pay kopi-lui when kenna stopped lor... many of us have paid our dues

 

Speedo ... to ... RPM ... to ... GPS

110km/h ... ~ 6000rpm ... ~ 103km/h

120km/h ... ~ 6500rpm ... ~ 114km/h

130km/h ... ~ 7000rpm ... ~ 123km/h

140km/h ... ~ 7500rpm ... ~ 134km/h

150km/h ... ~ 8000rpm ... ~ 144km/h

160km/h ... ~ RED!rpm ... ~ 153km/h

 

* Remember Safe Speed and Distance

 

The notion of safe speed is one that is highly debatable since it is primarily a subjective issue and often "contradicts" legal speed limits.

Comfortable Speed ≠ Legal Speed ≠ Safe Speed

Safe speed differs between rides (handling, stopping distance, etc), riders (some have higher thresholds for risk), and prevailing conditions such as road/surface condition, weather, wind, visibility, traffic density, etc.

 

While cruising at 130~140km/h may be considered unsafe to some, it is not uncommon to see bikers running at speeds >160km/h, to each their own 各跑各的吧

 

Considering the small 14" front and 13" rear wheels of the SW, cruising at speeds >140km/h is not recommended (IMO). Although the SW is capable of running >160km/h, you'll experience quite a fair bit of vibrations, further impairing safety. Another important consideration is, the stopping distance of SW is longer than road/sports or touring bikes, even with the Combined Braking System (CBS). This is mostly due to momentum from the >¼ tonne (loaded) running mass and a less than desirable braking power (single brake disc at front). Squeeze the braking level too hard, you'll risk locking the wheels and skidding, most SW in Singapore does not have ABS. The SW is rear heavy and some SWingers have experiences fishtailing, or 神龙摆尾

* Recommended Riding Outfit

The SW is a scooter, comfortable and offers much protection to its rider. Nevertheless, it is always important to be prepared for unfortunate events and adequate rider protection should never be neglected.

 

+ Good helmet (full-face or modular types recommended)

+ Ear plugs (optional)

+ Touring jacket (recommended for extra protection)

+ Tough long pants (touring pants or at least jeans)

+ Proper shoes (slippers are a no no)

+ Gloves

+ Sunglasses

+ etc.

 

* Adequate Insurance Protection... Must!!!

Compulsory Motorcycle Insurance

All Singapore registered bikes including the SW must have a valid insurance coverage before it is street legal; cannot renew road tax without it. Options are 3rd party (minimum), 3rd party fire & theft, and comprehensive.

Many (not all) policies cover the policy holders within Singapore, Peninsula Malaysia, and 50km from Malaysia-Thailand border. Beyond that, we're on our own so additional coverage is required to bridge the gaps while touring... as follows.

 

Thai 3rd Party Voluntary Insurance

Like the name says, it is not compulsory for us to buy this insurance when riding in Thailand. However, it is highly recommended as the risk of running into something or someone is grossly increased while riding through the "villages" and towns. Do note that this insurance do not cover the vehicles of the 3rd party, which we have to settle on our own in an unfortunate event.

 

See this post for more info.

The Thai 3rd Party insurance is valid throughout all locations in Thailand and provides coverage for bodily injuries to 3rd Parties. It DOES NOT provide cover for our own injuries, 3rd Party's and/or our own vehicles. For car, there are additional insurance "add-ons" available to cover 3rd Party's vehicles (not our own).

 

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Dg2exYsoexY/TbGsu-_cWTI/AAAAAAAAABo/mkBP-nSo8wQ/s400/Thai+InsurancePremium.JPG

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1o7fMCNqM6c/TbGs11j-I7I/AAAAAAAAABs/aTyvHJw6Kqc/s320/Thai+InsuranceCert.JPG

Probelm... the insurance document is all in Thai, who know WTH is written on it

 

Travel Insurance

~ before writing this section, I have to clarify that I am NOT an insurance agent.

 

A commonly asked question is, with a Singapore compulsory motorcycle insurance, plus a Thai 3rd party insurance, and other personal insurance policies (e.g. Personal Accident plan), do I still need to buy the Travel Insurance? Answer is YES!!! But of course, hope we'll never need it.

Fact is, some of our kakis (including myself) have "utilised" it due to unfortunate incidents during the many tours we ran up North.

 

Key advantages of travel insurance over the others are that it covers:

~ non-accident related medical treatments, including fever, cough, insect bites, etc

~ accident related medical treatment (most PA plans also covers)

~ emergency medical evacuation (only some PA covers)

~ repatriation during a very unfortunate incident

~ travel interruptions such as flight delays, dropped bookings, etc that are beyond our control (not our fault)

~ loss of travel documents

~ loss of baggage

~ loss of monies

~ personal liability

~ 24hrs support, etc.

 

See? Many of coverage provided by a travel insurance plan are not available from the 3 plans we mentioned above.

IMO, please buy

 

* Must Brings

+ Passport with at least 6 months validity (zip-lock bags are recommended for waterproofing)

+ White card (for Malaysia immigration & customs. DO NOT use MACS if crossing over to Thailand, else you'll have problem leaving Malaysia at the non-MACS immigration/border)

+ Driving/riding license (don't get stopped and booked for riding without a valid license; yes, it happens)

+ Photocopy of vehicle log card or printout of LTA screen with particulars of both bike and owner clearly shown (must have this for temporary importation of bike at Thai immigration and customs)

+ Signed Letter or Authorisation if rider is not owner of bike. Particulars of owner, rider and bike registration nos. must be clearly shown along with a clear declaration/statement that the owner authorise the rider to use his/her motorcycle at all locations. Without this, you'll encounter problem importing the bike at the Thai customs, somewhat a measure against stolen bikes crossing into Thailand.

+ Photocopy of insurance cert (aka CI)

+ Valid road tax disc (Singapore requirement but no need to display)

+ Photocopy of passport

+ Singapore cash card with sufficient value (for Singapore side tolls)

+ Malaysia Touch-n-Go card (for Malaysia side tolls, can use cash though)

+ Monies (Malaysian ringgit, Singapore dollar, credit or debit card, cash-on-line card, etc). 钱不是万能的, 不过没钱是万万不能的

 

Note: passport is the internationally recognised travel document, thus there is no need to bring along IC as it is usually not recognised for overseas identification purpose.

 

* Common Things To Carry

+ Foul weather wear (or water-proof riding jackets, or standby to ride wet)

+ Critical spares (e.g. belt, magnetic coil, rectifier, etc)

+ Tyre repair kit (aka worm kit)

+ Air pump (some tyre repair kit comes with compressed air canisters)

+ Spare keys to bike (ignition, top box, locks, etc)

+ Spare H7 headlight bulb

+ Spare spark plugs

+ Spare fuses

+ "Jumper cables" (or wires with sufficient length and thickness to carry current)

+ Tools

+ Duct tapes & cable-ties

+ Bike locks (highly recommended)

+ Bike cover (very optional)

+ First aid kit & medication (paracetamol & activated charcoal pills especially, you don't know when the hole below is going to leak)

+ rubber bands (use your imagination on how to use them )

+ etc.

(some things are only necessary in case of "touch wood" scenarios).

 

* Finding The Way Around

+ GPS Personal Navigation Device (PND)... the most convenient method to find your way around, even though it sometimes take you via a merry-go-round route. Personally, I use Garmin PND (Nuvi 550) as the only consumer waterproof sets are from Garmin (to date). Another good reason is the availability of free community maps from MalFree (includes Thailand) and MalSing which are very regularly updated.

+ Maps with directions could be prepared and printed from Google maps prior to departure for reference... the brick-n-mortar method with some topo skills could also get to places. SW9000 is an expert

 

* Pre-Tour Checks

+ Tyre condition and pressure (not recommended to tour with brand new pair of tyres before run-in, they are slippery especially on Thailand roads)

+ Brake pads condition

+ Brake oil level

+ Engine oil and final drive oil levels (strongly recommend to use 10w40 motor oil instead of gear oil for final drive)

+ Coolant level

+ Charging system (check magnetic coil output level)

+ Spark plug condition and re-tighten them

+ All lights working (heads, brakes and signals)

+ Battery health

+ Variator and belt conditions (not recommended to tour with aged or near "end of life" stage belts)

+ Suspensions condition

+ etc.

 

* Post-Tour Servicing

+ Give the bike a good wash down (usually end up with lots of dead insects and dirt)

+ Change engine oil (recommended for long haul tours, even if mileage is before the regular 5k~10k drain cycles)

+ Change engine oil filter (recommended)

+ Check/clean transmission assemblies (variators, belt, clutch, etc)

+ Check/clean air filter

+ Check coolant level

+ Check tyre condition

+ Check/tighten all screws you can see/find (optional, since most of them won't come loose)

+ etc.

 

* Immigration Pointers

 

Very important info for u guys....

 

Those who have MACS aka 'Malaysia Automated Clearance System', it is only for use in Johor n 2nd link check point. U MUST clear Malaysian custom manually with white card n stamp to get across bukit kayu hitam check point.

 

Pls note.

 

* Other/Safety Pointers

 

Please DO NOT proceed with the tour if...

- not feeling well in any sense & taking medication (e.g. flu/cold pills, cough syrup, etc)

- do not have enough sleep or still feeling sleepy

- having hangover from last night's bash

- not comfortable or not prepared

- feel that bike may have problems and may breakdown anytime soon

- etc.

 

Please DO...

+ inform your Next-of-Kin (NOK) and family members about the trip

+ inform MINDEF Notification Centre (MNC) if you are still a NSmen

+ get permission from "CO" for the trip

+ ride responsibly and safely throughout the trip

+ be responsible for yourself and your own bike

+ wear suitable riding gears for self protection (no slippers please)

+ fill in the NOK contact form or make sure someone knows how to contact your NOK... touch wood

 

 

A Riding Philosophy

Ridding a motorcycle itself has some risks; please do not try to increase the risk by riding unsafely but reduce risks by riding defensively.

No one is in control of your safety but you.

Be safe for the sake of your loved ones if not for yourself.

Edited March 23, 2012 by scoobydoo

[Uncle]

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Handguards/IMG_0572.jpg

 

This is a DIY project to add hand guards to the Silverwing FJS400D. I hate to wear gloves for short distances when it rains because they will take a long time to dry. However, the raindrops falling on the back of the hand is uncomfortable at speeds above 100km/h, especially when the rain is heavy. Also, there's a risk of stones hitting the hands, and possibly causing loss of bike control and accident. Armoured gloves are not practical for our tropical climate due to heat. Hence the birth of this project.

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Handguards/IMG_0573.jpg

 

For the project, I'm using the Suzuki Vstrom 1000 handguards. The idea came from https://picasaweb.google.com/rogerzcoot/SuziHandguards?authkey=Gv1sRgCKWx4_u54sP7WQ#5571762551068430242 which proved possible to adapt a hand guard for SW. These handguards are "closed loop", providing good all-round protection. It is not intended to provide for hand protection in the event of the crash, as such will require big metal hand guards, usually made for big adventure bikes like the GS with wide handle bars. With our faired handle bar, body and windshield, there is simply not enough space for such hand guards. Being a light tourer, dirt-bikes hand guards which secure only on the inner side of the handle bars are not suitable for our Silverwing as they tend to flex at higher speeds.

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Handguards/IMG_0553.jpg

 

A visit to the local Suzuki agent secured the required Suzuki parts. The staff mentioned that many people bought and adapt the Vstrom hand guards for other models; a good sign that it should work. They are only available in black. The agent is really traditional, using paper-fed calculator and hand-written receipts. Also, the shop policy is no return and no exchange, so better make sure that the part is correct.

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Handguards/IMG_6308.jpg

 

This shows the hand guards mounting positions. Inner side mounts on the bolt of the brake lever, while outer side mounts before the bar ends. The distance of the mounting points are different for the two hand guards due to the throttle housing on the right side. However, as they are flexible, you should be able to bend in or out slightly to adapt for other handle bars makes and bike models.

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Handguards/IMG_6314.jpg

 

This is the special bolt required to mount the inner side of the hand guards. Top is a 12mm hex nut with a inner 6mm thread. It might be possible to adapt other bolts for this.

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Handguards/IMG_0558.jpg

 

This is how it looks like mounted on the right brake lever.

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Handguards/IMG_0559.jpg

 

And the left brake lever.

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Handguards/IMG_6317.jpg

 

The outer side mounts on a special spacer (2nd from left in picture). The Suzuki part number is 57346-14G00 and requires indent with 3 weeks leadtime. Since I'm still using the original bar end, I had opted for the Suzuki balancer set which comes with the spacer and heavy balancer.

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Handguards/IMG_0556.jpg

 

There're a bunch of parts that are not used since our handle bar already has a built-in mount with 6mm inner thread to secure the bar ends. It seems almost impossible to remove this built-in mount as there are no screws securing it.

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Handguards/IMG_0567.jpg

 

This shows how the end of the hand guard looks like. Diameter is 15mm and thickness is 5mm. It might be possible to adapt some spacers yourself.

 

http://www.fjrtech.com/images/controls/04VStromHandGuards/ClipOnDremel.jpg

 

Some prefer to increase the hole size to fit their spacer / bar ends. My personal preference is not to mod the mounting point as it will weaken the support.

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Handguards/IMG_6320.jpg

 

At the same time, I have decided to change the original hand grips to BMW grooved hand grip that many of the forumers are using. It is 5mm longer than original at 127mm. I thought to shift the throttle and signal housing inside to cater to the extra grip length. However they have a notch matched to a hole on the handle bar which prevented it from mounting in other positions. The method is to compress the grip slightly so that it's flushed with the end of the handle bars. Special care has to be taken on the right grip so that it does not interfere with throttle movement.

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Handguards/IMG_0570.jpg

 

The right hand guard mounts without any modification. However, there's a need to shift the brake lever inner as far as it will go to avoid having to bend in the hand guard too much.

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Handguards/IMG_0561.jpg

 

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Handguards/IMG_0562.jpg

 

The left hand guard requires slight trimming of the inner side covering the brake reservoir.

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Handguards/IMG_0564.jpg

 

Not the neatest handy work but it'll work

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Handguards/IMG_0568.jpg

 

The finished product.

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Handguards/IMG_0569.jpg

 

Full right stays clear of the body and windshield.

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Handguards/IMG_0571.jpg

 

So does the full left.

 

Handlebar width before the modification is 730mm and the widest part is the mirror. After installing the hand guards, the widest part is now the hand guards at 850mm, followed by the mirrors at 830mm and handle bar at 810mm. As the hand guards are at the same height as car mirrors, care has to be taken to avoid splitting the lanes too fine. Otherwise, they handle well at speeds above 100km/h.

 

The parts list used for the project and their costs:

 

57541-06G10-291 Handguard LH - $30

57341-27G02-291 Handguard RH - $30

57431-06G00 Bolt Lever x 2 - $38

56200-06861 Balancer Set, Handlebar x 2 - $114

(The balancer set is actually optional. There's another part number 56200-06860 which is actually the same thing. What's needed is the spacer 57346-14G00, which is part of the set.)

32721458395 BMW Left Grooved Handle - $12

32721458396 BMW Right Grooved Handle - $12

M6 12mm screw x 2

M6 80mm screw x 2

M6 nuts x 2

20mm washers x 4

 

Singapore Suzuki agent details:

 

Guan Hoe Co.(M) Pte Ltd - Showroom / Spare parts

120 Rangoon Rd

Singapore 218398

Tel: 65160018

 

Guan Hoe Co.(M) Pte Ltd - Workshop

1 Kaki Bukit Avenue 6

#02-44 Autobay @ Kaki Bukit

Singapore 417883

Tel: 65096328

 

Happy DIYing!

Edited March 26, 2012 by Uncle
Updated part numbers

[scoobydoo]

Checking the CVT Belt

 

Which part of the belt should we look for cracks? In between the teeth or the side walls?

 

in theory, the mechs should check both... scooter belt is usually made of heavy duty rubber reinforced by fibre such as steel, polyester, aramic, etc. my guess is SW uses polyester reinforced belts.

 

some belts are made from Kevlar which is the same material that bullet proof vests are made of. they provide more durability, a longer belt life and decreased belt slippage. some people claims that Kevlar belts are the best belts you can buy for your scooter... but is it?

 

scooter CVT belts comes in 2 designs:

* single cog... usually for smaller scooters

sample

http://www.bando.de/images/stories/Produkte/scooter/single-cog/vs-single-cog-belt_img.jpg

 

* double cog (SW uses this)... used in high performance scooters, ATVs, dune buggies, snowmobiles, golf carts, etc.

sample

http://www.bando.de/images/stories/Produkte/scooter/double-cog/vs-double-cog-belt_img.jpg

http://www.bando.de/images/stories/Produkte/scooter/double-cog/vs-double-cog-belt_cons.jpg

 

Checking the belt:

 

Bending the Belt

this is to simulate its working position (smaller radius as if it is mounted at the pulleys) then check rubber for "cracks" or fatigue. do not bend belt too much as action may damage the belt.

 

common error: some mechs bend the belt too much when checking for crack lines between the "lumps" of the belt. even a brand new belt will show cracks when bent that way.

 

wear-n-tear on the belt is mostly due to material fatigue rather than abrasion. this wear is caused mainly by stress from rolling around the pulleys (bending at the variator pulleys and straightening between the pulleys). other contributors include belt tension, adverse environmental conditions, vibration, etc.

 

Checking Belt Width

mech should also check the sides of the belt for wearing and measure its width to make sure it is still within spec (not less than a specified width). when sides are worn, width becomes smaller, belt slippage may occur and transmission may not be able to achieve the desired grip and "gear ratio".

 

left: old/worn belt

right: new belt

http://silverwing.org/mwf/attach/77/1577/06Beltscloseup1.JPG

 

e.g. slippage

slippage occurs when the faces of the variator plates could not grip (or bite) the belt firm enough to pull it as they rotates. slippage causes loss of torque and/or power accordingly.

 

e.g. rpm increases... "gear ratio" changes

at front pulleys: rollers moves outwards (due to centrifugal force), front variator plates gets squeezed together, belt gets pushed outwards (larger radius) as a result. if belt width is too small, it may not be able to move outwards sufficiently to the optimal position (other than having lower friction between the belt and variator plates).

at rear pulleys: rear plates get tension from belt, belt moves inwards towards axis (smaller radius), rear wheel revolutions increases

 

 

hope this explanation is useful

 

 

useful read:

http://silverwing.org/cgi-bin/topic_show.pl?tid=398

Edited April 5, 2012 by scoobydoo

[peterweng]

got one second hand swt 400 one month ago, try the power at 2nd link and discovered only can go 120km/h, workshop say that is due to powercut, need to change cdi at $800, need expert advice. thanks

[Uncle]

Troubleshooting battery is damaged or weak

Many of us go about guessing the cause of weak battery and end up applying the wrong remedy. From the service manual, there is a systematic process in troubleshooting the cause as follows:

 

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Miscellaneous/2039afef.jpg

 

 

Current Leakage Test

• Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect the negative (-) cable from the battery.
  
• Connect the ammeter (+) probe to the negative (-) cable and the ammeter (-) probe to the battery (-) terminal.
  
• With the ignition switch OFF, check for current leakage.
  
• When measuring the current using a tester, set it to a high range, and then bring the range down to an appropriate level. Current flow higher than the range selected may blow out the fuse in the tester.
  
• While measuring current, do not turn the ignition switch ON. A sudden surge of current may blow out the fuse in the tester.
  
• SPECIFIED CURRENT LEAKAGE: 1.1 mA max
  
• If current leakage exceeds the specified value, a shorted circuit is likely.
  
• Locate the short by disconnecting connections one by one and measuring the current.
  

Charging Voltage Inspection

• Be sure that the battery is in good condition before performing this test.
  
• Start the engine and warm it up to the operating temperature; stop the engine.
  
• Connect the multimeter between the positive and negative terminals of the battery.
  
• To prevent a short, make absolutely certain which are the positive and negative terminals or cable.
  
• With the headlight on and turned to the high beam position, restart the engine.
  
• Measure the voltage on the multimeter when the engine runs at 5,000 rpm.
  
• STANDARD: Measured Battery Voltage

Alternator Charging Coil Inspection

• Remove the right passenger footpeg.
  
• Disconnect the alternator 3P white connector.
  
• Measure the resistance between the Yellow wire terminals of the alternator side connector.
  
• STANDARD: 0.1 - 0.5 ohms
  
• Check for continuity between each Yellow wire terminal of the alternator side connector and ground. There should be no continuity.
  
• Replace the alternator stator if resistance is out of specification, or if any wire has continuity to ground.
  

Regulator / Rectifier Wire Harness Inspection

• Remove the front cover.
  
• Disconnect the regulator / rectifier 6P connector.
  
• Check the connector for loose contacts or corroded terminals.
  
• Battery Line. Measure the voltage between the Red/White wire terminal and ground. There should be battery voltage at all times.
  
• Ground Line. Check the continuity between the Green wire terminal and ground. There should be continuity at all times.
  
• Charging Coil Line. Measure the resistance between the Yellow wire terminals. STANDARD: 0.1 - 0.5 ohms. Check for continuity between each Yellow wire terminal and ground. There should be no continuity.
  

Edited May 6, 2012 by Uncle

[scoobydoo]

Crankcase Breather

 

A crankcase breather is basically a ventilation system or avenue that facilitates the escape of gases from the crankcase of an internal combustion engine. This is necessary because internal combustion inevitably involves a small but continual amount of blow-by, which occurs when some of the gases from the combustion leak past the piston rings to end up inside the crankcase. Without the gas release, pressure builds up within the crankcase and deteriorates the engine's performance.

 

 

Contributions from kakis...

This is the crankcase breather. I think service means sticking in a cotton bud and clean the inside, and the black stopper at the end.

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Miscellaneous/c0d8f534.jpg

 

Don't think it's necessary to remove the tube. Just make sure whatever cloth / buds used to clean don't get stuck in the tube; else really have to remove it liao

 

 

Additional readups...

Crankcase Ventilation Systems

Edited May 6, 2012 by scoobydoo

[Uncle]

DIY Exhaust Headers Wrap

 

Objective is to achieve lower ambient temperature at the engine bay and underseat, which is presumely good for the components, including the seat strut. This is a by-the-way project as part of doing the re-sealing of the right crankcase cover, since the exhaust headers are required to be dismantled.

 

Materials for the project:

 

a. DEI Exhaust Wrap 3 rolls. I had opted for the narrower and shorter 1" wide x 15' length roll so that it's easier to handle. They are made with fibres. Although black is preferred, I couldn't get my hands on them. Supply is limited and I would think it's probably easier to order directly from their website. There are also newer "titanium" wraps that are built to withstand higher temperature and longer lasting. But as I have a short time-frame, just have to go with what's available locally.

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Exhaust/b78b24b7.jpg

 

b. DEI High Temperature Silicone Spray. It's actually a spray paint. Not sure why they had to call it "Silicone". This is recommended to protect the wrap from environmental elements of water, dirt, oil, etc.

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Exhaust/dei-htspray.jpg

 

c. New exhaust header gasket 2 units for both outlet ports. Note that new gaskets are round, meant to be flatten on installation to achieve a good seal.

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Exhaust/cd1a6558.jpg

 

This shows the old exhaust header gasket which has been totally flattened.

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Exhaust/d77cd902.jpg

 

d. Hose clips. DEI has the customed stainless steel clips but those are unbelievably expensive. These hose clips will do the job of securing the wrap. 100% stainless steel means everything is stainless steel, including the screw.

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Exhaust/ffe099e3.jpg

 

This is a picture of the 80% stainless steel hose clip used on the radiator hose. The screw is not stainless steel. I had taken the chance to replace them also.

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Exhaust/a17166d9.jpg

 

The dismantled exhaust headers has some rusts, especially nearer to the engine.

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Exhaust/a39af1fc.jpg

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Exhaust/073b0546.jpg

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Exhaust/60993e0e.jpg

 

De-rusted headers

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Exhaust/110b32e4.jpg

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Exhaust/4143ab36.jpg

 

Wrapped exhaust header. The recommended overlap is 1/4" and there are sewn black threads to follow. However, I had wrapped the part nearer the engine with 1/2" overlap so as to give a little more insulation, as that's where it's hottest. Some small fibres will drop off when securing. Those can irritate the skin. Best is to wear long sleeves and put on some body powder before doing the wrap. The hose clips are secured at the exhaust side protection screw mounts, so they are nicely hiddened when mounted. A 2-coat spray of the headers with the high temperature silicone spray completes the job (no pictures on this).

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Exhaust/57f26057.jpg

 

There's a special exhaust pipe joint nut tightening procedure and torque values.

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Exhaust/exhaust_pipe_joint_nut_tightening_procedure.jpg

 

I would say overall I can feel that the underseat is slightly cooler although by what extend I'm not sure. All other claims about keeping the heat expanded longer, thereby increasing the rate of gas flow out of the engine compartment header and exhaust system pipes are bullshit.

 

Happy DIYing!

Edited May 8, 2012 by Uncle

[scoobydoo]

Radiator & Radiator Cap

Overview:

ps: please let me know if i've gotten the joints wrong

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/SWRadiatorSystem.jpg

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/SWCoolantDrainPlug.jpg?t=1297235531

 

 

Radiator Neck/Filler Unit & Cap:

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/SWradiatorcap2.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG_4863.jpg

 

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG_4845.jpg

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/SWradiatorcap1.jpg

 

Radiator Reservoir:

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/SWreservoir1a.jpg

 

Water Pump Assembly - Thermostat Unit:

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/SWThermostat1.jpg

 

 

Contribution from hachi:

The pressure relief valve spring is compressed against the lower seal when you lock the cap. The radiator filler neck has an overflow tube right between the two sealing surfaces. If the pressure in the cooling system exceeds the preset rating of your cap, its pressure relief valve allows the lower seal to be lifted from its seat. Then the excess pressure (coolant, air) can squish through the overflow tube to the ground or the coolant reservoir.

 

When the fluid in the cooling system heats up, it expands, causing the pressure to build up. The cap is the only place where this pressure can escape, so the setting of the spring on the cap determines the maximum pressure in the cooling system. When the pressure reaches 15 psi, the pressure pushes the valve open, allowing coolant to escape from the cooling system. This coolant flows through the overflow tube into the bottom of the overflow tank. This arrangement keeps air out of the system. When the radiator cools back down, a vacuum is created in the cooling system that pulls open another spring loaded valve, sucking water back in from the bottom of the overflow tank to replace the water that was expelled.

 

After 2-3 years the seal might weaken and those who never change your Radiator Cap after 2-3 years might want to consider a cap change.

Edited May 18, 2012 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

Honda Combined ABS (Anti-lock Braking System) System for SW

 

Tokyo, March 24, 2003 --- Honda Motor Co., Ltd. has announced that, in addition to the standard versions of its luxurious, elegantly styled Silverwing 600 and 400 large-displacement scooters, it will also offer versions equipped with Combined ABS (Anti-lock Braking System) brakes, for increased stability and more effective control while braking. The two new types, the Silverwing 600 ABS and the Silverwing 400 ABS, will go on sale Tuesday, March 25th (Only available in Japan).

 

http://world.honda.com/news/2003/2030324.html

 

Unfortunately, the standard Silver Wing models do not come with ABS; those brought in by Boon Siew Singapore (local distributor) are standard models; ABS models are available on order basis. Although the ABS kit may be available for order from parts suppliers, finding a workshop/mechanic that has the knowledge/skills to install it properly is in question. Boon Siew do not support post purchase installations.

 

 

Two types of combined ABS combining CBS and ABS

 

Honda is now using two types of ABS for motorcycles, ABS using circulating type modulator widely used in automobiles and ABS used exclusively by motorcycles with modulators driven directly by motors. There are cases of using those two types of ABS as they are for the conventional brake system and of using them in combination with CBS as combined ABS, aiming at installation of ABS on many models.

For the combined ABS for large scooters, circulating type modulators partially improved for motorcycles were adopted for "Combi brake".

For large tourers, combined ABS capable of giving higher braking force was completed, combining modulators directly driven by motors with dual CBS.

 

(a) Combined ABS for large scooters

 

Combined ABS combining "Combi brake" and circulating type modulators. In this system prepared in one body with the electric control unit (ECU), a motor-driven pump generates hydraulic pressure and pressure is controlled by the solenoid valve. The system is characterized by a simple construction, which enables a unit to control brakes on the front and rear wheels.

 

The SW uses a circulating type ABS:

http://world.honda.com/motorcycle-technology/brake/img/p6_02.jpg

http://world.honda.com/motorcycle-technology/brake/img/p6_03.jpg

http://world.honda.com/motorcycle-technology/brake/img/p6_04.jpg

 

(b) Combined ABS for large sports and tourers~ ABS directly driven by motor

 

Combined ABS for large sports and tourers are the brake systems combining dual CBS with ABS modulators driven directly by motor, which were developed exclusively for the purpose. The ABS modulators will control hydraulic pressure by directly lifting up and down the position of the piston with a motor. A modulator controls the brake hydraulic pressure of one wheel. The modulators are installed one each on the front and rear wheel.

 

http://world.honda.com/motorcycle-technology/brake/img/p6_08.jpg

 

 

Reference readings:

http://world.honda.com/motorcycle-technology/brake/p1.html

http://world.honda.com/motorcycle-technology/brake/p6.html

[scoobydoo]

How To DIY Tyre Balancing

(using a Static Balancer)

 

relevant posts at tech corner:

* post (remove rear tyre) #22

* post (balancing) #46 and #47

 

self explanatory videos...

 

 

[video=youtube;T2AuivYzaBs&NR=1]

 

What you need?

* unmounted the tyre mounted wheels

 

* static balancer (there're portable types like those from Marc Parnes)

http://www.hoganshogs.com/images/Handy%20jpeg/13009%20WHEEL%20BALANCEr.jpg

 

* adhesive balancing weights (various weights)

http://www.marcparnes.com/WheelWeights_small.jpg

 

 

E.g. Marc Parnes Static Balancer

US$120 for SLW model for Honda Silver Wing ($105 + $15 for international shipping)

http://www.marcparnes.com/Motor_Scooter_Wheel_Balancer.htm#SLW

http://www.marcparnes.com/UNIV.JPG

 

 

have fun

[bikeagain]

My Silverwing broke down yesterday. Temp went up followed by clicking sound and power loss. Managed to ride to a bike shop. After cooling down and topping up of coolant, the sound and power loss is still ere.

 

I ride my secondhand Silverwing for a year with no problems and send for respray recently. Even rewrap the seat and change a bike box to beautify it and now it broke down. Can anyone recommend a bike shop (preferably in the west) that have experience to repair Silverwing? This bike shop I stopped at say they not confident of repairing my bike.

 

Pls help. Thank you so much.

[confusehaha]

My Silverwing broke down yesterday. Temp went up followed by clicking sound and power loss. Managed to ride to a bike shop. After cooling down and topping up of coolant, the sound and power loss is still ere.

 

I ride my secondhand Silverwing for a year with no problems and send for respray recently. Even rewrap the seat and change a bike box to beautify it and now it broke down. Can anyone recommend a bike shop (preferably in the west) that have experience to repair Silverwing? This bike shop I stopped at say they not confident of repairing my bike.

 

Pls help. Thank you so much.

Hey bro, post the wrong thread le.. Kindly post ur queries in silverwing cafe thread instead as this thread is meant to share DIY hand on.

[Uncle]

Mods by @FunkyChicken on SW:

 

TACHNICOLOUR speedo mod:

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG_4855.jpg

 

DIY LED tail lamp

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG_4872.jpg

 

idling

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG_4887.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG_19221.jpg

brake depressed

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG_4882.jpg

 

Hazard Light Switch. I've modded to connect direct to battery circuit with a flasher relay module hence it can be use when ur ignition is off. Muz have the flasher module else it won't work. coz our flasher module is built in to our speedometer. Thats why when ur ignition is off or speedometer is remove, ur light won't even light up.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG_4866.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG_4871.jpg