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<Info> Silverwing 400cc / 600cc Tech Corner


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V-Matic Indicator


As an odometer based reminder ... MOST of the time is due to this :deal:

The the V-matic indicator is a "trip based" indicator "programmed" to light up at 24k km intervals clocked by the odometer, i.e. expect to see it come on at 24k km, 48k km, 72k km, etc.

Why every 24k km? Probably becos the manual recommends change belt at 24k km.


No need to be alarmed or jump to any conclusions as it is only a reminder, something like an alarm set to ring at 7am every morning. Simply reset the indicator (procedures also stated in manual) and continue on your maintenance program will suffice. Some riders change their belt at 20k km (3-in-1 set) while some stretch it till >40k km. Risky? Depends on respective riding patterns.


As a "out of the norm" sensor


The service light comes on every 16,000 miles which is the factory recommended replacement interval for the drive belt. The light also comes on if the onboard computer senses a difference between speed and RPM which is outside the programmed parameters. For instance, if your belt wears prematurely, or stretches, or if your rollers wear, it will take more RPM to go a given speed. If those RPMs are outside the programmed range, the light will come on.



How to reset V-matic indicator?

Resetting the indicator is as simple as ABC...

(a) Off the ignition

(b) Press and hold down the 2 black rubber buttons (mode & reset) on the meter

© Turn the ignition on while still holding the 2 buttons down (about 5~8 seconds) and wait for the V-matic indicator to blink, then let go of the buttons and "V-light" will go off.

... whala... done!



Edited by scoobydoo


Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing


23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh

Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/

Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

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Yo Scoodydoo,

Mind sharing abit on running in new swings? lol

Like 1000km not exceeding how many Km/h or RPM. lol


Everyone does it differently.

The general rule is not to exceed rpm 5k for 1st 500km. That means no sudden acceleration and to vary the speed when travelling (use more engine brakes). After 500km, can gradual increase cruising speed. Should be able to try max top speed after 2500km.


Mine Kiasu type:

100km - Engine Oil/Gear Oil (mineral) & oil filter **Ehh... some say it is the most important change (me say too). Actually, my 1st SW I changed at 30km... hehehe.

500km - EO/GO & oil filter

1000km - EO/GO & oil filter

2000km - EO/GO (full synthetic), oil filter, iridium spark plugs & throttle bodies synchronisation.


Others may follow the interval stated in the service card by BS.

Edited by SW9000


11 - 25 Nov - 15D, Taiwan - Fly and Scoot


7 - 15 Apr - 9D, Phuket and Hatyai Songkran

17 Nov to 2 Dec - 16D, North East Thailand (Issan)


30 Mar to 7 Apr - 9D Korea/Jeju Fly and Ride

8 - 24 Nov - 16D, Mae Hong Son


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This article I extract, copy-n-paste from a previous post of another forumer :p


What is Running In?


The main objective of running in (also called break-in) an engine, is to get the engine to the point where all the rubbing surfaces are nicely mated to each otheras little unnecessary wear to the engine as possible at all temperatures likely to be attained, while causing in the process.



The goal of modern engine break-ins is the settling of piston rings into an engine's cylinder wall. A cylinder wall is not perfectly smooth but has a deliberate slight roughness to help oil adhesion. As the engine is powered up, the piston rings between the pistons and cylinder wall will begin to seal against the wall's small ridges.

Remember that metal expands with heat, thus a well perfectly mated piston/rings when cold in the cylinder may become too tight when the engine heats up. The benefits of doing a proper run-in are twofolds:

* the engine would be a “better” engine throughout it's life, and

* engine life would be extended.


All new bikes need to be run-in, as are engines that are overhauled to near "factory state". It allows the parts in your engine to gradually become seasoned. If you don't run-in your engine properly, you can seriously shorten its lifespan. Over-revving an unseasoned engine or putting too much load and stress on the motor could result in jammed pistons, potential cause of injuries or something worse.


And don't forget to use an appropriate engine oil and change it after running-in the engine.



The following are consequences of a bad engine break-in:

1. Oil will be allowed to gather in the cylinder wall, and a vehicle will use much more of it than necessary.

2. If a ring does not set into the grooves of the cylinder wall but creates friction against them each time an engine runs, the cylinder wall will be worn out.

3. Unsuccessfully setting piston rings into a cylinder wall will result in the necessity of new engine parts, or the entire engine depending on how extensive the damage is.

Method 1: Traditional Run-In (aka Soft Break-In)


How Far / How Long?


Depending on the motorbike manufacturer's recommendations, running-in periods are usually between 500km to 1000km. i.e. different bikes have different requirements. For overhauled engines, it depends on what parts are changed as well... better to check with the mechanic or workshop that completed the overhaul.


Although the SW owners' manual says 500km, most of us do 1,000km...

Help assure your scooter’s future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you ride during the first 300 miles (500 km).

During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration.

A conventional or normal run-in could take a rider as little as few days or as long as few months; it really depending on usage.

If a rider decides to take a slow leisurely ride up to Hatyai and back, run-in could be completed within a trip :lol:


How Fast or Engine Revs Limit?


Although this is very much dependent on the make/model of your bike, a common run-in engine rev limit is usually set around

Personally, I limited my speed to

Revving the unseasoned engine too high would not only wear out the engine excessively but also grossly increase the chances of the piston(s) to jam, although it is rather unlikely under normal circumstances.


If your bike is new, chances are the tyres are also new... new tyres are slippery and also need "running in". Limiting riding speed and lighter cornering is a safe bet.

What Engine Oil To Use?


Most would recommended that mineral oils should be used for the run-in because the engine is not doing prolonged high revs and synthetic oils are too “good” and could slow down the desired seasoning of rubbing parts. Mineral oils are also more economical and has to be changed immediately when run-in is completed.




A commonly adopted recommendation:

* 1st 500km: run on mineral oil (comes with bike), limit to

* @ 500km: change engine oil (10w40 mineral oil) and oil filter; some riders prefers not to change filter even when it is not costly (a original honda filter costs

* next 500km: run on mineral oil, limit to

* @ 1,000km: run in completed:

note that some bikers practice extended run ins, 1,500km or 2,000km or 2,500km.

... change engine oil to preferred 10w40 weighted oil; brand, semi or fully synthetic engine oil is matter of personal preference but strongly recommend to use 10w40

... must change oil filter

... change transmission oil; owner's manual says to use 10w40 motor oil (another name for engine oil) so most of us use the same engine oil we use for the engine bay. note that some mechanics will recommend to use gear oil instead of engine oil, based on their many years of experience and some SW are indeed using gear oils. fact is, honda's service manual for Silver Wing clearly stated to use 10w40 engine oil, there must be a reason.


Normally, the engine oil and transmission oil drained out at these stages are rather blackish due to the many metal "power" in the oil, the by-products of running in. That is why changing the filter is very important at the end of the run in; the filter is supposed to keep the eo clean instead of "contaminating" it.

It is best to check with the manufacturer (owners’ manual) and your regular/proficient mechanic.



Other than the traditional "Slow-n-Steady" run in method ("Soft" run-in), another popular but controversial method is the Hard run in (Hard break-in) method.



Method 2: Hard Break-In?


Hard running-in usually makes life easier, taking as little as less than an hour using a Dynojet machine. This is especially popular for busy bikers.


Dyno run-ins basically do the run-in in a "lab" like environment. Instead of running the bike on the road, bike is strapped and ran on something like a track mill, following a predetermined procedure. Electronic and computerised gadgets/sensors are fitted onto various parts of the bike to monitor bike's performance such as torque, vibrations, FC, temperature, etc. Fans are usually used to help maintain desired bike temperatures.


Advantage of hard run-in is that it is done by a mechanic under a controlled environment, without the rider having to keep an eye on the tachometer while riding in traffic... a very much safer option at a affordable price.


read this: Run It Hard! ... author is someone who advocates hard run ins. the article wrote about the 3 types of run ins and also piston ring sealing. its up to us to form our own opinion how we want to run-in our beloved bikes.


A variation to the typical Hard break-in involves running the bike through a predetermined procedure on the road instead of on the Dyno. While being fast, convenient and more economical than using a Dyno, both the bike and rider are exposed to much higher risks such as engine blow-out, piston jams, etc.



Preferred Method?


Most bikers would prefer to run in our bike the traditional way because it is easy, free and allows us to feel our bike better.




Edited by scoobydoo


Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing


23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh

Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/

Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

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since we've covered running in... a good topic to cover for info would be overhauling an petrol internal combustion engine. if we keep the ride long enough, some level of overhaul would be necessary to restore its performance, hopefully none of us needs prematurely :p


What is an Engine Overhaul?


A general term for major engine work that usually requires removing the engine from the vehicle/bike, and rebuilding or replacing internal components (e.g. pistons, piston rings, connecting rods, valves, etc.), usually in attempt to restore it near “factory” state. Note that changes of parts like timing belt, magnetic coil, etc. do not constitute an overhaul.


2 general levels of Engine Overhaul:


(1) Top Overhaul:

… covers mainly the replacement of components at the “topside” of an engine, parts that are accessible after removing the engine’s top cover; usually do not involve removal of engine from the vehicle/bike.

Common works done are to dismantle and change cylinder head assembly parts such as valves, rocker arm, piston head, piston rings, gasket, etc.


For the Silver Wing, it could involve dismantling the throttle body, cylinder head cover/head set, etc. to service/replace components like the valves, camshafts, cam chain, etc.

Much of the body kit (fairings) needs to be removed to allow access.


(2) Full Overhaul:

… covers the replacement of most if not all engine components and requires the entire engine to be removed from the vehicle/bike. Works include replacing connecting rods, crankshaft bearings, etc. in addition to the items in top overhaul.

Understandably, a full overhaul service costs more than a top overhaul.


For the Silver Wing, it could (in addition to those of top overhaul) involve dismantling the crank case, cylinder, to work on (or replace) components like crank shaft, bearings, piston, connecting rods, piston rings, etc.


Generally, Overhaul Costs = Components Cost + Labour Cost


Note: whether a bike's engine need a top or full overhaul depends on the extent of wear and/or damage to the engine's parts.


Different bikes and different engine condition will cost differently. I overhauled my TZR125 (1 cylinder) for about $250 but my CBX400 Custom (4 cylinders, 16 valves) cost me >$1,000. The CBX engine is very heavy to remove, more complicated design, more expensive parts, more skill & time needed, etc... obviously more expensive lor


Problems? Yes... if you don't run in the bike properly.

My TZR's piston jammed while running above recommended revolutions before the proper run-in is completed. Skidded along AYE and was lucky not to get myself killed... was only about 1 feet from being run over by a car. End up going back to workshop and spend more $$$.

ADVICE: do the run-in religiously for your own safety


In addition to the main engine, other systems of the bike may be worked upon during an Overhaul, not just the engine. E.g. oil and water pump, cooling system, transmission system, swing arm, electrical harness/system, etc.


Transmission System… Gears/Gearbox

The Honda Silver Wing uses the Continuous Variable Transmission (CVT) system instead of the sequential manual system. The Silver Wing’s transmission gears are located at the rear behind and connected to the rear driven face and clutch assembly.


Transmission system… Clutch Assembly (Variators for CVT)

Motorcycle clutches are usually made up of a stack of alternating plain steel and friction plates. typically two clutch plates, one fixed to the engine's crankshaft, the other fixed to a basket that turns the transmission shaft, which turns the gears (gearbox) and finally front sprocket. the plates are forced together by a set of coil springs when the clutch is engaged.

Clutch plates should be changed if the contact parts are worn out.


The Honda Silver Wing’s CVT system comprised on a “drive face” (connected to the engine’s crankshaft) and a “driven face” (connected to the gears which in turn drives the rear wheel).

Key components of the drive face/assembly include the inner/outer variator plates, rollers, sliders (aka u-clips), etc. Key components of the driven face include the belt, clutch assembly (clutch pads, clutch bell, clutch plate, contra sprint, lunar plate, etc.


Cooling System

Petrol engines may be air-cooled, by fins on the cylinders (e.g. TA200 phantom), or liquid-cooled by a water jacket and radiator (e.g. Silver Wing, Super 4, etc.). The coolant was formerly water but is now usually a mixture of water and ethylene glycol. This mixture has a lower freezing-point and a higher boiling-point than pure water. In addition, the cooling system is usually slightly pressurised to minimise evaporation of coolant.

Other than the water-based engine radiator system, some bikes has an additional radiator for cooling the engine oil.

Popular coolants include the Engine Ice, Redline’s Water Wetter, Maxima’s Coolaide, etc.


Major engine components of Silver Wing's engine

~ excluding transmission system


Key components/assemblies are:

* engine block (aka body)

* cylinder head assembly

* camshaft assembly

* cyclinder

* crank/shaft assembly

* throttle body

* starter assembly

* alternator/generator (magnetic coil) assembly

* etc.

* water, oil pump

* etc.





Petrol Internal Combustion Engine


To understand an overhaul job better, knowing how the petrol internal combustion engine works would be helpful.


The Silver Wing scooter is driven by a 400cc (or 600cc) parallel twin petrol engine, summarised as:

* 2 cylinders

* 4 valves to each cylinder (total 8 valves)

* double over head cam design (DOHC)

* 4 stroke

* liquid cooled


What does 2-stroke or 4 stroke engine means?


A single sweep of the cylinder by the piston in an upward or downward motion is known as a stroke. i.e.

2-stroke = bang, down, up, bang, down up, bang .. .. ..

4-stroke = bang, down, up, down, up, bang, down, up, down, up, bang .... .... ....




Key components of a typical 4-stroke engine:




Typical 4-stroke DOHC engine in action:

(1) Induction or Suction stroke... air and vaporised fuel are drawn into cylinder from carburettor.

(2) Compression stroke... fuel vapor and air are compressed by the piston/cylinder and ready for ignition by "sparks" generated by spark plug.

(3) Power stroke... combustion take place and piston is pushed downwards to push the crankshaft into a rotating motion.

(4) Exhaust stroke... burnt waste is driven or squeeze out of the cylinder for fresh air and vaporised fuel to be drawn in.


This is a good webby read... "How Stuff Works"



What is Double Overhead Camshaft (DOHC)?


A DOHC train layout is characterized by two camshafts located within the cylinder head, one operating the intake valves and one operating the exhaust valves. Some engines have more than one bank of cylinder heads (V8 and flat-four being two well-known examples) and these have more than two camshafts in total, but they remain DOHC.




DOHC designs are commonly used in modern cars and motorcycles. With multiple valves per cylinder (Silver Wing 4 valves per cyclinder), engineers place 2x intake valves on the opposite side from the 2x exhaust vales. The result is an engine that can "breath" better and faster, producing higher horsepowers with smaller engine capacity.

Pros: High efficiency, possible to install multiple valves per cylinder and adopt variable timing.

Cons: More complex and more expensive


Single Overhead Cam (SOHC):



What is Parallel Twin?


The Silver Wing uses a parallel twin engine (2-cylinder engines are commonly known as twins) where both pistons move up and down together, parallel to each other but on opposite strokes.. i.e. when one is on the compression stroke, the other is exhausting; every revolution you have a power stroke from alternating cylinders.

Because the pistons move together, balancers are required to counter the weight shifts within the engine. Otherwise, the pistons will be "kicking" the engine up and down, causing lots of vibrations.

See the "stripped down" view of the Silver Wing's parallel twin engine (engine parts) above.



The parallel twin as in most common British and Japanese motorcycles until the 90s when engines with 4 cylinders became commonly seen on production market. These engines typically have the cylinders side by side and vertically above the crankcase, with the exhaust ports pointing forward to maximise airflow cooling.


- - -


There are many variations to crankshaft configurations, e.g.:


* Inline (aka straight) ... cylinders arranged in a straight row and usually across the fore-arf line for better cooling and space considerations; e.g. honda CB400 aka Super 4's inline 4 engine



* Inline twin ... cylinders arranged in a straight row but crankshaft configuration uses a 180° offset between the pistons, i.e. one piston moves up while the other moves down for a inline twin.


* Parallel twin ... similar to inline engines; both cylinders are arranged parallel to each other and its crankshaft configuration uses a 360° offset, i.e. both pistons move up and down together and parallel to each other. because the pistons move together, balancers are required/used to counter the weight shifts within the engine. otherwise, we can expect quite a bit of vibrations.

Today, the Parallel Twin engine isn't as popular as it once was, but it produces torque like a single, is light in weight and produce almost double the RPM and have good horsepower and top speed as well. ... ...

Thanks to having two pistons and with the use of counter balancers to counter the effect of piston forces parallel twin engines are much more smooth than Singles.


* V ... offsets the pistons 90° from each other.



* Flat (aka Boxer) ... pistons arranged on opposite sides; one of its popular subtype is the "boxer" setup



* Tandem Twin... cylinders are longitudinal and have two cranks geared together.


Parallel vs. Inline


Mechanical balance & vibrations:

• In Inline configuration (180° offset), pistons moves in “opposite” directions, countering each other’s weight shifts thus causing less vibrations than the Parallel.

• In addition to less vibrations (don’t need counter balancers), Inline twins suffer fewer pumping losses and displacement in the crankcase stays roughly constant.

• Mechanical balance of a 4-stroke Parallel twin engine is similar to that of a similar displacement 4-stroke single-cylinder engine. This is because both pistons move up and down the parallel cylinders together.

• To reduce vibrations caused by the Parallel twin’s “rocking couple”, counter balancers are required for bigger displacement bikes.


Firing & Ignition:

• A key advantage of Parallel twin setups is that firing is regular, with one cylinder firing each revolution of the crankshaft rather than every second revolution of the 4-stroke.

• In Inline twin setups, the firing is uneven; the left cylinder fires, then 180° later the right cylinder fires, then the engine rotates 540° (360°+180°) before the left cylinder again fires.

• An Inline twin engine requires a separate ignition system for each cylinder while a Parallel twin usually have a single ignition system for both cylinders.

• A Parallel twin simpler/single ignition experiences a “wasted” spark on each cylinder's exhaust stroke. Since spark plugs are fired in pairs, the spark inside the cylinder which is compressed for the purpose of “squeezing” out the exhaust is deemed “wasted” as it generates no power.

• In some sense, the wasted spark is not really wasted since the "double firing" helps to reduce exhaust gas emissions by burning whatever remaining fuel left over from the previous combustion stroke before it has a chance to exit the engine through the tail pipe.






This article is a compilation of info from many sources including Wikipedia.org, samarins.com, auto.howstuffswork.com, etc.

Edited by scoobydoo


Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing


23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh

Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/

Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

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heard of the worm kit?

here's it and how to use it :angel:


A Comprehensive Tyre Repair Kit



1a … Spiral Hole Cleaning Tool (Recommended)

1b … Spiral Hole Cleaning Tool

2a … Eyelet Repair Strip Insertion Tool (Recommended)

2b … Eyelet Repair Strip Insertion Tool

3 … Repair Strips (“Worm”)

4 … Tube Repair Strip Glue

5 … Repair Strip Trimming Knife

6 … Compressed Air Canisters

7 … Inflation Adaptor (for Canisters)


Insertion tool (2a) in illustration is the ½ insertion type (push tool) which is most commonly used. Notice that the "eye" at front tip has an opening pointing forward; tool will push the worm in but leave the worm in its place when tool is pulled outwards.

another common design for ½ insertion tool head is http://www.blackjacktirerepair.com/images/products/Rn-234-l.png


Safety First:

Before anything should be attempted, the first thing to do is to find a safe place to stop over.


Although a petrol station would be ideal (other than a tyre shop or workshop), there may be times where one needs to pull-over to the road shoulders of an expressway or some busy road. If so required to work in the “wilderness”,


• DO NOT stop near blind spots (e.g. behind turns, bends or corners blocked by some signages) where you and your bike could be “invisible” to oncoming motorists until its too late;

• DO NOT stop and work at areas where lighting is poor at night;

• DO switch on the bike’s hazard lights (if equipped);

• DO display the hazard triangle reflector at an appropriate location/distance to forewarn oncoming motorists;

• DO keep an eye on oncoming traffic in case oncoming motorists pass too close or make misjudgment;

• DO work with caution while mending the tyre.




Step 1 = Find the Leak


Finding the leak could be straight forward if the culprit (e.g. nail) is still on the tyre. But if you don't see any screw, nail or piece of something sticking on the tyre, it may be tough finding out where the air is escaping. The most common method to find the leak is to apply “soapy” solution over the suspect area and look for the bubble.

Problem is, how many of us carry soap solution as a SOP item? Most riders saliva as a readily available substitute when nothing else is available.


Step 2 = Remove the Culprit


Before removing the culprit (e.g. nail, screw, splint, etc.) from the tyre, it is strongly recommended to leave a marking on the tyre to indicate the leak or point to be plugged; a marker or tape would be useful. If really nothing better, grab a stone and leave some appropriate “scratch” marks to help.


Step 3 = Prepare the “Hole”


There a round file looking took in the tire repair kit (see items 1a & 1b). The type with a T-handle (item 1a) is recommended as it allows its user to exert more force when inserting and pulling it out of the tyre, as compare to one with a screwdriver design (item 1b).


Push this tool in and out of the hole firmly and perpendicularly to the tyres surface for a few times (about 5~6 cycles). This is to clean out and roughen up the hole in the tire prior to plugging.


Step 4 = Prepare the Worm (Repair Strip)


Peel a strip of the “tar-worm” repair strip (item 3) out from the pack and thread it through the plugging tool (items 2a & 2b). Typically, a plugging tool has an eye at its front tip, like a giant needle but with an “outlet gap” (position depends on full or half insertion design) for the worm to leave the tool during extraction.


Insert the worm into the tool’s eye, positioning the eye to around the middle of the worm’s length. Although the worms are already sticky, most kits come with a tube of glue (item 4). Apply some glue sparingly on the worm, concentrating on parts that are entering the hole. The glue is used to reinforce the seal and also helps make sure the worm stays in place.


Step 5 = Insert the Repair Strip or Worm


With the worm threaded onto the plugging tool, push the front end of the tool slowly/firmly and perpendicularly into the prepared hole to be plugged. Do not jam the worm in. This action usually requires quite a bit of effort if the seal is to be tight. If the insertion is easy or effortless, the hole may be too big for the worm and plug will not be effective to hold the air.


Depending on the design of the plugging (worm insertion) tool, there are 2 variations:


• Half insertion tool design (most common): push tool with opening at eye pointing forward

Push the plugging tool and attached worm in until only about 1.5~2cm of the worm is left sticking outside. Then pull the plugging tool perpendicularly out leaving the worm firmly plugged in the hole.

The whole worm will be left inside the tyre if you push it in all the way :lol:


e.g. http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Misc/Worminsertionheads.jpg?t=1287470153


• Full insertion tool design: pull tool with opening at eye at around centre

Push the plugging tool and attached worm fully into the hole. Then pull the tool slowly and perpendicularly outwards, pulling about 1.5~2cm of the worm out of the tyre. Remove/unhook the plugging tool from the worm which is firmly plugged in the hole.


Step 6 = Remove Excess Strips


Trip the excess section of the worm outside the tyre using a cutter (item 5). Although it is ok to trim it close to the tire, it is common to leave about 1~2mm excess. If there’s really nothing to trim the excess, leave it there and trim it later.

Wait for about 10~15 minutes before inflating the tyre to allow the glue settle in.


Step 7 = Inflate & Check Sealing


If at a petrol station with air pressure pump unit, use it to inflate the tyre sufficiently to enable safe riding to the nearest tyre repair/replacement shop. If along roadside, use the compressed air canisters (items 6 & 7) or foot pump to inflate the tyre accordingly. Although some may disagree, many would recommended to go easy on the tyre pressure when on plugs.


Repeat the “bubble check” at the plugged spot to see if the seal is properly done. If not, repeat the sealing process from step 3 onwards.


Step 8 = Properly Mend/Patch or Replace the Tyre


Worm kit repair jobs are only temporary or emergency measures. Affected tyres are not recommended for prolonged use and should be properly mended/patched at tyre repair shops or replaced altogether.


- - - - - -


Never attempt to plug a sidewall! Your tire's sidewall is under different strains and pressures than the part that makes contact with the road. Plugging a sidewall can result in a blowout, so don't try it.







There are many similar products that does the same function of plugging the leak.

E.g. Stop & Go Tyre Plugger.


E.g. Genuine Innovations Tire Repair & Inflation Kit






Modern tyre repair:

E.g. Slime Moto Spair http://www.slime.com/shop/moto-spair-50001/



E.g. Holts Tyreweld series of products… seals punctured & reinflate tyre in seconds.



Edited by scoobydoo


Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing


23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh

Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/

Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

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If i'm not wrong, the "T-mode" button is only useful for overtaking or going up a slope.

Its not a "turbo" button or a "N2 Boost button.

It will just slightly adjust your ECU to input a little more fuel and a little more air to give you a little more burst, not significant.

It works while you are throttling not on stand still mode.

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No worries, i'm not an expert but there are alot of experts in this forum. Join is for outings whenever there is one. We are all very friendly people. Would love to see more scooter riders get united :)

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Hi all,i a newbie in scoot & had book a SW-T400(Black) from ASP.Will be collecting bike end month.I have heard that the front & back shocks are soft...Should it be change to after market ones? But the bike is brand new? What other things i should look for @ day 1 when collect bike? I had read some tips from 'tech corner',is the top-box Kappa K46 sufficient? I have to top-up if i need to have a bigger one,if so what size? 49,52,54? The top-box is a free gift.....Please advise...thanks.

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In my opinion, the K46 is enough. You have ample storage under your seat. This is one of the reason why I wanna convert to SW once I can break even my Super Four. Looking forward to the day I own a 400cc with relatively low maintenance and upkeep cost.


Been reading up a lot on SW lately to find out more bout this bike.

"Don't do onto others, what you don't want others to do onto you"

"What goes around, comes around"

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Changing spark plugs on a Silver Wing scooter


Tools Required

• Philips head and flat head screwdrivers

• Plug tool (or spark plug wrench with 16mm or 5/8” Hex)

• Ratchet or spanner or T-spanner

• Extender (plug tool provided by Honda together with bike is not long enough)



Notes before starting:


• Strongly recommended to use reputable brands such as Denso or NGK in view of reliability issues. There were cases where sparkplugs broke into two, leaving one half still in the engine.

• Some bikers use a "plug gapping/feeler gauge" (see below pic) to check the plug gap and make sure it is correct. However, most bikers and mechanics will simply bypass this step and install the plug straight away. This is because the factory gap settings of modern plugs are suitable for most bikes in general.


• Most spark plugs comes with a terminal nut over the threads of the plug’s upper electrode. Remember to remove them before installing the sparkplugs.

• Make sure that the oil, water, dirt, etc. (e.g. rain, sand, etc.) do not enter the engine interior from the plug access.

• Use the correct wrench for the hex on the plug, and be careful not to damage the insulator.

• Make sure the sparkplugs are clean, especially at the screw threads before installation.

• Do not over tighten the sparkplugs. Although the manual states some recommended torque (e.g. 16 ft/lbs), most of us don’t have such precision tools but use our own hands; lots of feel and judgement required… see below.

• Over tightening may break the sparkplug or even damage the threads the sparkplugs and/or the engine.


Tightening by Hand (without using a Torque Wrench)


Whenever possible it is recommended that the spark plug should be installed by using a torque wrench. However, since most riders do not possess a torque wrench, the “Locking Turn” method is commonly used (also described in owners manual):


New Sparkplugs:

Tighten the plugs TWICE to prevent loosening… 1st tightening compresses the new “tapered” washers, 2nd tightening locks the sparkplug firmly in place.

• Screw in the sparkplug (together with the new washers) till it is firmly seated; do not screw the plugs in by force or the screw threads may be damaged (commonly known as cross-threading).

• 1st tightening:

. . . o Denso: make an additional 1 turn

. . . o NGK: make an additional 1/2 turn

• Loosen the sparkplug and retighten the sparkplug again.

• 2nd tightening/locking:

. . . o Denso & NGK... make an additional 1/8 turn

• Do not over tighten the sparkplug.

• Note: Some mechanics do not practice this 2 step tightening.



Used Sparkplugs:

Sparkplugs may be re-used if they are still in good condition after inspection. Many bikers keep used good conditioned sparkplugs as spares.

• Screw in the sparkplug (together with the flattened washers) till it is firmly seated.

• Make an additional 1/8 turn to lock the sparkplug firmly in place.




















Reverse the process... job done :angel:



Spark Plug Gap


If the plug gap is wide, the flame core is larger and the quenching effect is smaller, so reliable ignition can be expected. But if the gap is too wide, a large discharge voltage becomes necessary. If the limits of the coil performance are exceeded, and discharge becomes impossible.




The recommended spark plug gap is not stated in my old owner’s manual but a webby recommended this…

Gap 0.80 - 0.90 mm (0.031 - 0.035")

Specifications of Denso Iridium Power IUH24 indicated that they are gapped at 0.9mm… this means the plugs are “good to go” unless you want to modify them.



The incorrect plug gap for your engine can contribute to a high rate of misfires, loss of power, plug fouling, poor fuel economy, and accelerated plug wear. It is always best to check the gap against the manufacturer's specifications.


Another consideration that should be taken into account is the extent of any modifications that you may have made to the engine. As an example, when you raise compression or add forced induction (e.g. turbo, nitrous or supercharger kit), you must reduce the gap (about 0.101mm or 0.004” for every 50hp you add). However, when you add a high power ignition system (e.g. MSD, Crane, Nology systems) you can open the gap from 0.051mm~0.127mm or 0.002”~0.005”.


Generally, the bigger the spark plug gap, the more voltage you require to have the spark arc across the gap. The same applies when the combustion chamber pressure is increased. The spark plug gap also has a bearing on engine performance. The bigger the spark plug gap, the more air/fuel mixture will come into contact with the spark and the easier it will be to ignite the air/fuel mixture. However, it's not simply a matter of increasing the spark plug gap and the output voltage from the coil. Firstly, there is a limit to the amount of voltage the ignition system can handle and, secondly, there is an optimal spark plug gap that will best performance for your engine and your driving style.


How to Gap a Spark Plug?


1. For used plugs, remove the spark plugs from the engines and clean the electrodes with a lint free cloth as necessary.

For new plugs, remove the plastic protectors covering the electrodes.

2. Check the owner's manual for the recommended gap setting.

3. Use a gap tool to check the gap of the spark plug by slipping the appropriate part of the tool between the ground electrode and center electrode.

The gap tool should fit snugly at the recommended gap width indicated on the tool.

4. Push the tool carefully between the electrodes a few times to confirm the accurate gauging. Be careful not to damage the electrodes.

5. If the gap is too wide, press the ground electrode firmly against a flat surface (e.g. wall) to bend it inwards, closing the gap between the ground and centre electrodes.

If gap is too narrow, use a suitable plier to bend it outwards gently and by a little at a time. Do not exert too much force or the ground electrode may become damaged.

6. Check the gap again and repeat steps 3 ~ 5 until the desired again is attained.

7. Install the spark plug to the engine and reattach the spark plug wires.



photos are courtesy of Jeff at http://silverwing.org/cgi-bin/topic_show.pl?tid=1364

NGK & Denso websites



many other websites

Edited by scoobydoo


Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing


23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh

Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/

Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

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Genuine, Parallel Imported & Fake Spark Plugs


There are many make and models of spark plugs on sale in the market. Some commonly known ones are Denso, NGK, Bosch, Champion, OWS, Splitfire, Hodaka, Pulstar, ACDelco, etc.

However, we shall discuss only Denso and NGK, the 2 makes recommended by Honda.


Local Distributor



The authorised Denso spark plugs dealer (for motorcycles) in Singapore is Premo International Pte Ltd, located at 39B Jalan Pemimpin #04-00 Prime Industrial Building Singapore 577184. The company is open to non-corporate sales (i.e. Tom, D1ck or Harry) provided the order meets a minimal quantity, e.g. 10 boxes (4 plugs in each box). Can do MO :p


When specifically asked, a Premo's sales staff feedback that they did not supply to LAB, i.e. Ah Boy imported his stocks of Denso plugs himself.



Searching the webbies for a local NGK distributor was futile and there are no NGK Regional Office in Singapore (according to NGK's website); the nearest ones are in Malaysia (HQ in Penang, Branch in KL) and Indonesia (Jarkarta).



Maybe there is no local distributor appointed for sales of NGK spark plugs in Singapore. Maybe someone is importing the plugs in bulk before reselling them to the local shops.

Update: According to a fellow SWinger, NGK has a distributor in Singapore... Boon Siew, was told the plugs are imported from Thailand.


Parallel Imports or Fakes?


It is said that parallel imports and fake Denso or NGK spark plugs are being sold in Singapore and around the world. Spark plugs not sold through official/local agents cannot be guaranteed of their quality.

Hmmm... how about genuine but parallel imports?


Now that it is confirmed that LAB’s stocks for Denso spark plugs are not from local distributor, question is whether his competitively priced spark plugs are parallel imports or fakes.

A parallel import is a non-counterfeit product imported from another country without the permission of the intellectual property owner. Parallel imports are often referred to as grey product, and are implicated in issues of international trade, and intellectual property.
Parallel imports can still be genuine stuffs, only that they are brought into local market bypassing the local distributor.
Technically speaking... Fakes are Fakes. Parallel Imports are NOT Fakes.

We can’t say that Honda Silver Wing sold by parallel importers are fakes, right? :lol:


IMO, as long as the spark plugs are parallel imports and not fakes, I am comfortable to save the bucks.

Tricky issue now is, how to know whether the spark plugs are fakes?


How to identify fakes Denso/NGK plugs?


Both Denso and NGK have publish articles describing the differences between genuine and fake plugs. The method described is by close inspection of the physical finishing of the plugs. Unfortunately for us, the quality gaps may have narrowed significantly beyond the capacity of naked eyes with modern technology and “copy” techniques.











The next time you buy Denso or NGK plugs from any budget accessories/parts store, take a closer look... hopefully the plugs are at least parallel imports and not fakes :p




Denso & NGK local & international webbies, Wikipedia, etc.

Edited by scoobydoo


Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing


23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh

Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/

Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

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What LED bulbs are usable on a Silver Wing?


This list is compiled from contributions of SWingers who have changed their stock bulbs to LEDs (without modifying the connection type).

If you have new/further/correction inputs, kindly post in the discussion section so that we may update this list... thank you.


Please refer to your respective manuals on how to change the bulbs; FJS/JDM and SWT models vary slightly.


2x Pilot Lights

... 194/168 type T10 wedge base LED bulbs; commonly referred to as T10

... available in many colors (e.g. white/yellowish, amber, blue, red, green, etc); stock is white/yellowish (LTA friendly)


1x License Plate Light

... 194/168 type T10 wedge base LED bulbs; commonly referred to as T10

... from the manaul, looks like T10 LED may be used but require the "wide angle" instead of "mono" directional types

... anyone can confirm?

... although some riders use colored bulbs (e.g. white/yellowish, amber, blue, red, green, etc), any color other than non-white/yellowish is not LTA friendly


1x Under Seat Compartment Light

... 3022 type Festoon (31mm x 10mm) LED bulbs

... do not get the 3710 type (37mm x 10mm) as they are too long to fit the stock socket/housing


2x Brake Lights

... 7443 type T20 16mm wedge base, 2-contact, 2-intensity LED bulbs

... since SW's clear plastic lens is already red, using a white bulb could desirable since similar spec white LEDs are generally brighter than red ones

... do not buy 7440 T20 as they are 1-intensity LED bulbs generally used for for signals, reverse, other lightings, etc.


LEDs for Signal Lights

LEDs draw significantly less power than incandescent bulbs. Thus, the standard flasher unit in our bike will activate the LEDs faster than the normal rate (as if blown bulb situation).

2 ways to overcome this:

… use LED bulbs with built-in resistors (neatest but such bulbs are more costly and may be hard to find)

… add an electronic flasher unit (preferred) or resistor kit to existing circuitry

see ttp://www.superbrightleds.com/pdfs/load_resistor_info.pdf


2x Front Signal Lights

for FJS Euro: 1156 type BAU15S (Euro) single contact candelabra bayonet base, amber

... bayonet pins are off set at 150 degrees instead of the normal 180 degrees

... amber bulbs are required as FJS's clear plastic lens are "plain" colored

... JDM (Japs) may use white bulbs if clear plastic lens are amber in color

for SWT: 7440 type T20 16mm wedge base, 1-intensity LED bulbs, amber

... bayonet pins are off set at 150 degrees instead of the normal 180 degrees

... amber bulbs are required as FJS's clear plastic lens are "plain" colored

... GT (Japs) may use white bulbs if clear plastic lens are amber in color


2x Rear Signal Lights

for both FJS & SWT: 1156 type BAU15S (Euro) single contact candelabra bayonet base, amber

... bayonet pins are off set at 150 degrees instead of the normal 180 degrees

... amber bulbs are required as clear plastic lens are "plain" colored


2x Head Lights (Low/High Beam)

The SW's headlights (both low and high beams) are powered by H7 halogen bulbs. Although high power H7 LED bulbs are already available, their relative brightness and "throw" are still lacking when compared to moder high powered halogen based bulbs and Halogen Infrared Reflecting (HIR) bulbs that may be used on the stock socket. As such, it may not be advisable to use H7 LED bulbs, at least for the time being.




List of many other types of bulb base:




What is LED?


A light-emitting diode (LED) is a semiconductor light source, commonly used as indicator lamps in many electrical/electronic devices in the past but are increasingly used in place of conventional incandescent lightings.

LED bulbs/strips are becoming more and more popular in automotive lamps as they consumes significantly less power, lasts longer, vibration friendly and much smaller (thus more versatile) when compared to the old-school incandescent bulbs.


Why LED?


One of the few setbacks of using LEDs could be the high switch-over cost, especially for high powered LED bulbs; e.g. a normal incandescent bulb may cost just few dollars while a compatible high powered LED bulb could cost >$30. Nevertheless, many automotive owners still find the investment worthwhile, especially for rear brake lights to enhance safety. LED bulbs light up much faster than incandescent bulbs (by up to 0.5 seconds) and thus help shorten the delay for "signal" to be sent to road users behind; a 0.5 seconds delay on a 90km/h highway could mean a headway difference of up to 25 metres.


However, it does not mean we should change all bulbs on the bike to LED, at least for now. We have to consider the pros and cons of applying LEDs at the respective lightings on the bike.

E.g. the headlights are currently using H7 halogen bulbs. While H7 LED replacement bulbs are available, their brilliance are still lacking when compared to high performance halogen bulbs and high intensity discharge (HID) lighting systems. Also, the use of load resistor kits or LED bulbs with built in resistors may "cancel" out the purpose of lowering power consumption, other than possibly having a brighter bulb.


contribution from TitanicLexus

... actually i do some research online for the LED bulb and realized that the different between the wedge base for 1156 type BAU15S and 7440/7443 type T20.


*Wedge base for 1156 type BAU15S for FJS/SWT both using bayonet pins are off set at 150 degrees instead of the normal 180 degrees.


*Wedge base for 7443/7440 type T20 for FJS/SWT both using 16mm wedge base, 2-contact, 2-intensity LED bulbs. If for Brake light both FJS/SWT must use 7443 T20, 2-contact and 2-intensity LED bulb. If for signal only for SWT, can use 7440 T20 1-intensity amber colour.


Meaning for SWT: 7440 type T20 16mm wedge base, 1-intensity LED bulbs, amber

... bayonet pins are off set at 150 degrees instead of the normal 180 degrees


Ride safe :angel:



fellow SWingers






many other webbies

Edited by scoobydoo


Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing


23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh

Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/

Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

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If today I Pump esso 95.. few days later i pump shell 98.. then shell v-power.. then malaysia shell 97.. Will it cause any damage to the engine??

will the FC become higher??

2007 - 2008 Honda Phatom 200

2008 - 2010 SYM GTS 200

2010 - ???? Honda Silverwing SW-T400

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If today I Pump esso 95.. few days later i pump shell 98.. then shell v-power.. then malaysia shell 97.. Will it cause any damage to the engine??

will the FC become higher??

2007 - 2008 Honda Phatom 200

2008 - 2010 SYM GTS 200

2010 - ???? Honda Silverwing SW-T400

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Share on other sites

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