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Posted
Wa. U been going every weekend?!

 

But 17k is a good price..

ya man.. i got my without ABS already more than 17k.

 

so confirm Loois NCX is PI bike?

 

So there's no 1 in the westside owing this bike??? guess if I buy I'm the first in the westside... :) btw u guys do have meet up sessions right??

i think there maybe 1 staying in the west, perhaps he haven't get to see your post yet.

we'll be organising our 1st NC meetup soon, perhaps end of this month or early next month when a few more guys collect their bikes.

Posted
So there's no 1 in the westside owing this bike??? guess if I buy I'm the first in the westside... :) btw u guys do have meet up sessions right??

 

I am staying west area..

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn265/RoyTan75/26612765.jpg

CB200/TW200/Dragstar400/Shadowace1100/Varadero1000/GS1100/Sportster1200R

Posted (edited)
I think you shld jus for your bike to come b4 further assessment.

I've been having good experience with h&b products so far, but i suppose a one off qc would be possible.

 

I probably will b getting my bike ard e same time as u, n will b installing the same crash bars too, but at mtechnik. I will let u know if i witness similar issue.

 

Yup, I maybe just speculating here and it's not a good thing since I have no bike to fix on yet.

 

 

 

did u install yourself? if i'm not wrong when i first bought the crashbar, chan followed the manual and there wad some misalignment, but later realized it was the manual's fault, he somehow didnt follow the manual's photo and made it fit properly

 

Yup, Ken warn me about fixing it myself and there is this washer that is suppose to be on the left side of the bike but hepco diagram indicated right.

Edited by kimochi
Posted
Wa. U been going every weekend?!

 

But 17k is a good price..

 

haha... can't afford to ride one.. so go there see and touch lor...

Arai V-Cross2 Arai Rx7r3 Haga Arai Ram2 Arai Rx7r3 Conlin Edward Arai Rx7r3 Mick Doohan Arai Ram 2 Arai Rx7r4 Gunmetal Arai RX7r4 Shinaya Nakano Shoei X11 Kato Black Arai Ram 3 Gunmetal Arai Ram 3 Shoei Neotec Shoei J-cruise

 

KTM 200EXC Gilera Runner SP Aprilia RS250 Hornet 250 Gilera Runner Vxr Yamaha Yzf 05R6 Honda Wave 125 X9 Evo 200 SilverWing 400 Yamaha Tmax XP500 NC700XD STX C650GT

Posted (edited)

 

I wouldn't call that a fog lamp as fog lamp needs to be yellow in colour.

 

That LED light would act more like a day running light though. Making you more visible to other road user.

 

If you want to shine far, forget it :p

 

If you want something cheaper than those found on for example BMW maybe you can try these

http://ajcentreprise.com/catalog/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/16/products_id/133

 

http://well-done.en.alibaba.com/product/515615018-210374497/IP68_10W_Cree_LED_offroad_light_LED_driving_light_for_motorbike_WD_1L10.html

 

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/205039 (for reference only, other sites maybe cheaper.)

 

They are relatively cheaper than branded halogen/LED ones, run cooler and sip on current. Check the specs, you'll love how little current it draws. Made in china.

 

Do note that there are spot beam and flood beams.

 

Spot shine further but narrower. Flood shine shorter distance but spread the beam even up to the trees.

 

Or you can look up this guy etkach3 that can order the LED light for you in the CMO section. He called himself the white light specialist. I wouldn't recommend the white light halogen bulbs that he raves about. No bulb will shine brighter than your original halogen bulb with the same current. Brighter = more current drawn = hot = stress = exceed the manufacturer spec. Comes with ceramic plug to prevent original wire burn though. I wouldn't take my chances. I bought but got no balls to use ha ha. Others who uses It seems like they have got no problems.

Edited by kimochi
Posted
So singapore have DCT model for NC700x alrdy?

need to order from BS

LICENCES

class 2B: 07sep06 (cg125, nsr150, cbf150, x1r, ta200)

class 3: 30apr07 (Mitsubishi lancer, Nissan sunny, Toyota corolla, Volkswagen golf tsi)

class 2A: 27may08 (revo, vtec1, majesty250)

class 2: 08jun10 (fz6n, GSX-R600L4, tmax530)

Posted

Hi all,bros please help me to get Touratech Top-Box,aka Zega Pro 38L. Where can get cheaper beside getting from PML since we are riding jap bikes not conti,no racks available but must customize the base ourselves.

Posted
Hi all,bros please help me to get Touratech Top-Box,aka Zega Pro 38L. Where can get cheaper beside getting from PML since we are riding jap bikes not conti,no racks available but must customize the base ourselves.

 

Have u got a quote from PML yet? I used to ASSUME they are ex, but when i got a quote from them, I was surprise they are very reasonable, in fact cheaper than any previously sold in Sg.

 

Compared to other makers, they are one of the most ex, so, if wanna get them, be prepared to pay for them. Whether they are worth the price, is totally up to u.

 

Btw, Touratech is a very small company in Germany, and their products prices are very controlled ard the world. Like apple products.

Posted

Any one placed power commander 5 at ur ride? I am thinking of it this Tuesday, Unique selling $620 a bit on the high side...

 

Any 1 know where to get a better price?

2006 - Old School Vespa, Yamaha 125 Z, Bajaj Pulsar 180cc

2007 - Piaggio X8 200cc

2008 - Suzuki GSR 400cc

2009 - Piaggio X9 200cc, Yamaha R6 08, Piaggio MP3 400cc

2010 - Ducati 696, Bajaj Pulsa Ver. 200, Yamaha Fazer 8, Honda VFR 1200

2012- Phatom 200, CBR 150 R - 2012 Model

Once a Rider, Will always be...:thumb:

Posted

Sharing my limited knowledge regarding fog lights and driving lights..

Driving lights are generally classified as lights that increase your road presence, whereas fog lights are lights that improved your visibility of the road.

Most driving lights are LED as the draw alot less current than halogen bulbs, and LED lights are bright, and can even be glaring, depending on the lens they use. The most popular are cree led. You are actually paid for the lens, more than the actual led itself. Most driving lenses are designed to be very focus, rather than spreading wide like fog lights.

 

This was what I used previously on my bike. It's around $118 inclusive of shipping.

http://www.bikevis.com/motorcycle-cree-led-running-lights.html

 

Another good option is the philip driving light which you can find in Autobacs.

 

The difference between expensive and cheaper options of driving lights are the wiring harness. For example, the bikevis come with a relay box, proper, waterproof wiring, and even have the module to adjust brightness. Whereas some cheaper option just come with basic wiring.

 

For foglight, as they are meant to illuminate the road, the leds are not enough as they do not provide enough throw.

There is a common misconception (I was proven wrong with this) that it has to be yellow.

 

But the truth is, the lens design and the height of where you mount the lights are more important. Good foglights lenses' are design to spread the light widely. The lights have to be mounted lower so that it is effective and doesn't shine on the fog at height that can give a very uncomfortable light bounce. This is particularly uncomfortable in rain too.

 

As most foglights are halogen, or even hid, they do draw current heavily. Not recommended for prolong usage on motorcycle batteries.. But wouldn't be a problem as most people will be installing switches.

 

My personal preferences for fog lights are the SW Motech Hawk lights(they have option for driving or fog light), Hella Micro Defog and the H&B Micro flooter. All these options should be below $300..

 

All above comments are based on my own experience, trying different products and testing with many friends and mechanics. If they are wrong in any way, just ignore it. :)

Posted

actually "by right" motorcycle's "fog lights" are to be covered when on sg roads... and there really is no point using fog lights imo, i have friends who ride other touring bikes saying they hardly use it in malaysia, dont even need to think about sg road... i really do hate cars with fog lights on, duno for wad blind ppl mirror only... but the givi & h&b fog lights seems to look very nice on our crash bar hehe

Posted
actually "by right" motorcycle's "fog lights" are to be covered when on sg roads... and there really is no point using fog lights imo, i have friends who ride other touring bikes saying they hardly use it in malaysia, dont even need to think about sg road... i really do hate cars with fog lights on, duno for wad blind ppl mirror only... but the givi & h&b fog lights seems to look very nice on our crash bar hehe

 

Yah, by right. But LTA seems to be slack on this rule recently. *fingers crossed*

Out of my many north up trips, I think they are only useful if you do night rides. Most of my rides are in the day, so, not that useful.

However, if you like to lane split, I think they will be useful for motorcycles. That increased visibility does work very well. I have many times see cars that swerve back into lane when I'm behind them. I seldom gets such reaction from those car drives (taxis and lady drivers included) when I don't turn on, or dont have my driving lights...

Posted
I wouldn't call that a fog lamp as fog lamp needs to be yellow in colour.

 

That LED light would act more like a day running light though. Making you more visible to other road user.

 

If you want to shine far, forget it :p

 

If you want something cheaper than those found on for example BMW maybe you can try these

http://ajcentreprise.com/catalog/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/16/products_id/133

 

http://well-done.en.alibaba.com/product/515615018-210374497/IP68_10W_Cree_LED_offroad_light_LED_driving_light_for_motorbike_WD_1L10.html

 

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/205039 (for reference only, other sites maybe cheaper.)

 

They are relatively cheaper than branded halogen/LED ones, run cooler and sip on current. Check the specs, you'll love how little current it draws. Made in china.

 

Do note that there are spot beam and flood beams.

 

Spot shine further but narrower. Flood shine shorter distance but spread the beam even up to the trees.

 

Or you can look up this guy etkach3 that can order the LED light for you in the CMO section. He called himself the white light specialist. I wouldn't recommend the white light halogen bulbs that he raves about. No bulb will shine brighter than your original halogen bulb with the same current. Brighter = more current drawn = hot = stress = exceed the manufacturer spec. Comes with ceramic plug to prevent original wire burn though. I wouldn't take my chances. I bought but got no balls to use ha ha. Others who uses It seems like they have got no problems.

 

Sharing my limited knowledge regarding fog lights and driving lights..

Driving lights are generally classified as lights that increase your road presence, whereas fog lights are lights that improved your visibility of the road.

Most driving lights are LED as the draw alot less current than halogen bulbs, and LED lights are bright, and can even be glaring, depending on the lens they use. The most popular are cree led. You are actually paid for the lens, more than the actual led itself. Most driving lenses are designed to be very focus, rather than spreading wide like fog lights.

 

This was what I used previously on my bike. It's around $118 inclusive of shipping.

http://www.bikevis.com/motorcycle-cree-led-running-lights.html

 

Another good option is the philip driving light which you can find in Autobacs.

 

The difference between expensive and cheaper options of driving lights are the wiring harness. For example, the bikevis come with a relay box, proper, waterproof wiring, and even have the module to adjust brightness. Whereas some cheaper option just come with basic wiring.

 

For foglight, as they are meant to illuminate the road, the leds are not enough as they do not provide enough throw.

There is a common misconception (I was proven wrong with this) that it has to be yellow.

 

But the truth is, the lens design and the height of where you mount the lights are more important. Good foglights lenses' are design to spread the light widely. The lights have to be mounted lower so that it is effective and doesn't shine on the fog at height that can give a very uncomfortable light bounce. This is particularly uncomfortable in rain too.

 

As most foglights are halogen, or even hid, they do draw current heavily. Not recommended for prolong usage on motorcycle batteries.. But wouldn't be a problem as most people will be installing switches.

 

My personal preferences for fog lights are the SW Motech Hawk lights(they have option for driving or fog light), Hella Micro Defog and the H&B Micro flooter. All these options should be below $300..

 

All above comments are based on my own experience, trying different products and testing with many friends and mechanics. If they are wrong in any way, just ignore it. :)

Guys, thanks for the write ups, certainly informative! I saw the cree worklights with 4 LEDs at aliexpress, guess that would be a good choice for my budget setup. :)

Posted
I wouldn't call that a fog lamp as fog lamp needs to be yellow in colour.

 

That LED light would act more like a day running light though. Making you more visible to other road user.

 

If you want to shine far, forget it :p

 

If you want something cheaper than those found on for example BMW maybe you can try these

http://ajcentreprise.com/catalog/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/16/products_id/133

 

http://well-done.en.alibaba.com/product/515615018-210374497/IP68_10W_Cree_LED_offroad_light_LED_driving_light_for_motorbike_WD_1L10.html

 

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/205039 (for reference only, other sites maybe cheaper.)

 

They are relatively cheaper than branded halogen/LED ones, run cooler and sip on current. Check the specs, you'll love how little current it draws. Made in china.

 

Do note that there are spot beam and flood beams.

 

Spot shine further but narrower. Flood shine shorter distance but spread the beam even up to the trees.

 

Or you can look up this guy etkach3 that can order the LED light for you in the CMO section. He called himself the white light specialist. I wouldn't recommend the white light halogen bulbs that he raves about. No bulb will shine brighter than your original halogen bulb with the same current. Brighter = more current drawn = hot = stress = exceed the manufacturer spec. Comes with ceramic plug to prevent original wire burn though. I wouldn't take my chances. I bought but got no balls to use ha ha. Others who uses It seems like they have got no problems.

 

Sharing my limited knowledge regarding fog lights and driving lights..

Driving lights are generally classified as lights that increase your road presence, whereas fog lights are lights that improved your visibility of the road.

Most driving lights are LED as the draw alot less current than halogen bulbs, and LED lights are bright, and can even be glaring, depending on the lens they use. The most popular are cree led. You are actually paid for the lens, more than the actual led itself. Most driving lenses are designed to be very focus, rather than spreading wide like fog lights.

 

This was what I used previously on my bike. It's around $118 inclusive of shipping.

http://www.bikevis.com/motorcycle-cree-led-running-lights.html

 

Another good option is the philip driving light which you can find in Autobacs.

 

The difference between expensive and cheaper options of driving lights are the wiring harness. For example, the bikevis come with a relay box, proper, waterproof wiring, and even have the module to adjust brightness. Whereas some cheaper option just come with basic wiring.

 

For foglight, as they are meant to illuminate the road, the leds are not enough as they do not provide enough throw.

There is a common misconception (I was proven wrong with this) that it has to be yellow.

 

But the truth is, the lens design and the height of where you mount the lights are more important. Good foglights lenses' are design to spread the light widely. The lights have to be mounted lower so that it is effective and doesn't shine on the fog at height that can give a very uncomfortable light bounce. This is particularly uncomfortable in rain too.

 

As most foglights are halogen, or even hid, they do draw current heavily. Not recommended for prolong usage on motorcycle batteries.. But wouldn't be a problem as most people will be installing switches.

 

My personal preferences for fog lights are the SW Motech Hawk lights(they have option for driving or fog light), Hella Micro Defog and the H&B Micro flooter. All these options should be below $300..

 

All above comments are based on my own experience, trying different products and testing with many friends and mechanics. If they are wrong in any way, just ignore it. :)

Guys, thanks for the write ups, certainly informative! I saw the cree worklights with 4 LEDs at aliexpress, guess that would be a good choice for my budget setup. :)

Posted
actually "by right" motorcycle's "fog lights" are to be covered when on sg roads... and there really is no point using fog lights imo, i have friends who ride other touring bikes saying they hardly use it in malaysia, dont even need to think about sg road... i really do hate cars with fog lights on, duno for wad blind ppl mirror only... but the givi & h&b fog lights seems to look very nice on our crash bar hehe

Totally agree its not required on SG roads. I'm thinking more on night riding in MY and probably thailand.

 

And yes, its definitely a nice accessory on our crashbars. Haha.

Posted
Yup, wil definitely having some lights on my crashbars.. :)

N btw, i advise strongly against night riding in Thailand....

 

Care to share? The only time I rode in thailand was during the day.

Posted
Care to share? The only time I rode in thailand was during the day.

 

1) road condition not good, hard to see whats ahead of u.

2) at some part after hatyai, often have bikes/car/ppl coming up from side of road which is on lower elevation. Can be a bad shock even in day time.

3) at night, stray animals, sometimes even bigger one can be roaming n staying in the middle of the road..

 

Basically, its just me kia-see.. Ive known ppl doing night ride in thailand.. But thats one thing i really dont wanna do..

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