2004 Kawasaki Z750 DIY Guide

[S750WP]

Bike is running quite rough and fuel consumption increase lately

 

Check the vacuum synchronization today.

 

Before adjustment

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/12/29/bikepics-2495512-800.jpg

 

After adjustment

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/12/29/bikepics-2495513-800.jpg

 

The bike now runs smoothly after the adjustment.

[S750WP]

DIY to convert the Scottoiler from single to dual lubricator to lube both side of the O-ring chain.

 

Parts required.

1. 4mm Y union push type fitting x 1

2. 4mm OD and 2.5mm ID PU tubing x 1 metre

3. 3mm straight fitting x 1

4. A strap of flexible metal strip

5. Bolt, nut, washers.

6. 2 cotton swaps, trim off the cotton bud on each end.

7. Cable ties and foam type double sided tape

 

Procedure

 

To join the 4mm tubing with a 3mm straight connector to the scottoiler tubing

1. Remove the single lubricator

2. Gently heat the scottoiler tubing and insert the 3mm straight connectors.

3. Gently heat the 4mm tubing and insert to the 3mm straight connectors

 

To fabricate the dual lubricator

1. Cut 2 equal length of 4mm tubing and insert to the Y union connector

2. Insert the 2 equal length cotton swap into the 4mm tubing in step 1, as the lubricator

3. Use the bolt, washers and nut to secure the Y union connector to the flexible metal strip

 

Priming

1. Connect the 4mm tubing earlier (extension of the scottoiler tubing) to the Y union connector

2. Importantly, let the Y union connector hanging so that air within the Y union is completely expel out else oil will not flow.

3. Follow scottoiler instruction to prime the new tubing.

4. Prime till all the air is expel out at both end of the lubricator and oil is flowing out from both lubricator for 20-30sec

 

Installation

1. Mount the flexible metal strip to the swing arm, with cable tie and protect your bike against scratches by the metal strip with foam type double sided tape.

2. Position the 2 lubricator such that each lubricator is touching each side of the sprocket. (sprocket is sandwiched between the lubricators)

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/2013/06/06/bikepics-2563942-full.jpg

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/2013/06/06/bikepics-2563943-full.jpg

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/2013/06/06/bikepics-2563944-full.jpg

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/2013/06/06/bikepics-2563945-full.jpg

Edited June 7, 2013 by S750WP

[CSV]

wah, very well done. You're almost a mechanic yourself liao.

 

basic servicing and valve clearance you also can do. i guess what's left is overhauling engine.

[S750WP]

wah, very well done. You're almost a mechanic yourself liao.

 

basic servicing and valve clearance you also can do. i guess what's left is overhauling engine.

 

I learn by watching how mechanic service and repair bikes, reading workshop manual and previous work experience as technician help give me confidence to start DIY my own motorbike. Most importantly must not be afraid of failure, and by nature I'm very curious or itchy hand. If I have the correct tools I may overhaul the engine, but so far never have any issue with 4 stroke in-line 4 engine before, these machines are so reliable if you maintain it properly.

[CSV]

i only good with basic stuff.

 

change eo, air filter that kind. and cosmetic stuff like changing meter and bulbs.

 

dare not undertake engine fixing cause no skill. and had bad experience before when i helped my brother changed camchain, engine timing went out of sync.

 

my next skill i hope to learn is cleaning brake piston and adjusting chain.

[S750WP]

my next skill i hope to learn is cleaning brake piston and adjusting chain.

 

Only some basic tools require not very difficult, if you need help I can guide you.

[S750WP]

Going to replace my almost 2 year old digital voltmeter with a waterproof one from ebay, the previous one also bought from ebay was non waterproof and I use silicone to seal the electronic circuit. Lately it will not power up but then back to normal again after quite a while, the wiring looks ok, suspect moisture cause the voltmeter circuit to malfunction and after its dried it will be ok.

 

The digital voltmeter is useful for monitoring the motorcycle charging system, you will be able to know if anythings goes wrong and rectify immediately.

 

The waterproof digital voltmeter cause less than $6 its cheaper than the non waterproof one which I bought 2 years ago for $10.

http://www.vakind.info/img/kissbuyonline/ft/kiss54720.01-8online.jpg

http://www.vakind.info/img/kissbuyonline/ft/kiss54720.01-1online.jpg

http://www.vakind.info/img/kissbuyonline/ft/kiss54720.01-5online.jpg

http://www.vakind.info/img/kissbuyonline/ft/kiss54720.01-9online.jpg

 

For wiring its quite simple.

1. Off the bike.

2. Open up the fuse box, look for the ignition fuse (usually there is writing on the fuse box)

3. Remove the fuse and place the voltmeter red wire (positive) into the hole where the fuse sits in

4. Put back the ignition fuse, hence the voltmeter red wire is connected and received power when the bike is switch on. (do not turn on the bike yet)

5. Next connect the voltmeter black wire(negative) to the ground, I connect it to the negative battery terminal of my bike.

6. Start the bike, the voltmeter will power up and shows the volts reading of your bike.

Edited June 8, 2013 by S750WP

[S750WP]

Installed the waterproof handle bar mount 12V cigarette socket charger for charging portable devices i.e GPS, I chose the handle bar mount as there is no other place for mounting. I bought these from Ebay but realized one of the advertiser here is also selling at almost the same price.

 

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/12V-Power-Motorcycle-7-8-1-Handlebar-Waterproof-Cigarette-Lighter-Plug-m-/00/s/MjY2WDQwMA==/z/U~4AAMXQBwlRNyxs/$(KGrHqZ,!rIFD01I2+zNBRNy)r0vyQ~~60_12.JPG.

 

For wiring.

1. Off the bike.

2. Open up the fuse box, look for the head light fuse (usually there is writing on the fuse box), the headlight turns on when bike starts.

3. Remove the fuse and place the charger red wire (positive) into the hole where the fuse sits in

4. Put back the fuse, hence the charger red wire is connected and received power when the bike is switch on. (do not turn on the bike yet)

5. Next connect the charger black wire(negative) to the ground, I connect it to the negative battery terminal of my bike.

6. Start the bike, the charger will be activated to charge the portable device.

[yatan73-regok]

fuse had 2 terminals, your red wire should connect to the negative terminal of the fuse

[S750WP]

Upgraded to ram mount with medium size aquabox, it cost 3 times more than the Arkon, but its very sturdy, my GPS sits firmly within. Only disadvantage the aquabox is very bulky, almost 3 times the szie of the Arkon.

 

http://www.rammount.com/Gallery/images/RAM-B-149Z-AQ6U/high/RAM-B-149Z-AQ6U.jpg

Edited June 11, 2013 by S750WP

[S750WP]

fuse had 2 terminals, your red wire should connect to the negative terminal of the fuse

 

Fuse has no negative terminals, any direction you put in the fuse it will still works because the circuit is in series.

 

http://teachers.egfi-k12.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dance-pad.fuse-150x150.jpg

 

I am just tapping the +12V from the fuse to my device.

Edited June 9, 2013 by S750WP

[S750WP]

I could hear a faint engine knocking sound during idling, its located underneath the fuel tank. The engine still run smoothly but the FC drops from 280km to 250km before reserve. Finally located the problem due to a crack rubber hose connected at the air valve switch, the engine is sucking in unfiltered air.

 

 

The knocking sound was gone after the hose was fixed.

 

Perform throttle body syn and adjusted the bypass screw setting to 2 turns out as per bike manual

Edited October 5, 2013 by S750WP

[S750WP]

A great article for suspension setting.

 

http://www.gostar-racing.com/information/motorcycle_suspension_set-up.htm

 

My oem rear shock (ZX10R 2004/5) works best according to manufacturer setting.

 

Rebound 1 and 3/4 turns out

Compression 3 turns out

[S750WP]

Bought a used Power Commander III USB from ebay for USD215. The installation was very straight forward no cutting of any wire is required and the plug fit exactly to the kawasaki OEM plug.

 

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/2poAAOxymspSDpd1/$(KGrHqJ,!lQFH4BMi(Y2BSDpd0(HCQ~~60_1.JPG?set_id=880000500F;

 

The main unit is situated under the passenger seat with Velcro supplied by manufacturer, then route the cable to the throttle body

 

1. Connect the grounding to the negative side of the battery.

2. Unplug the throttle body fuel injector main connector and plug in the PCIII connector

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/2013%5C09%5C09%5Cbikepics-2596107-800.jpg

 

Then download the PCIII maps from dynojet website and upload the map to the PCIII using usb wire connected to a PC.

 

 

 

My 2004 Kawasaki Z750 is the European model, the file I am using is M214-507

Edited September 9, 2013 by S750WP

[S750WP]

Pictures of the new waterproof digital volt meter and Garmin Oregon 450 waterproof GPS

 

Install a RAM mount 1 inch ball at the handle bar clamp at the top left hand corner using 8mm bolt, keep the bike neat and tidy.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2013%5C09%5C02%5Cbikepics-2594033-800.jpg

 

12V blue LED digital voltmeter and the Oregon 450 powered up when the ignition is turned on

http://p1.bikepics.com/2013%5C09%5C02%5Cbikepics-2594035-800.jpg

Edited September 2, 2013 by S750WP

[S750WP]

Bought some small parts from ebay to replace the worn out parts

 

City Lights (Z750 European models only)

Philips Blue Vision Sidelights W5W

 

Well nuts (for holding down the side fairing panel, 1 ea per side)

Fasteners M6 rubber well for replacing the worn pieces.

 

Fairing Clips

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/25-Pcs-Honda-Yamaha-Kawasaki-Harley-Motorcycle-ATV-Fender-Rivet-Clips-Retainer-/00/s/MTYwMFgxNjAw/z/iPwAAOxyJs5RbOq4/$T2eC16Z,!zUE9s38+E8!BRbOq4GcKg~~60_57.JPG

 

Silicone Hose

4mm ID (throttle body vacuum hose) and 10mm ID( engine breather hose)

Edited September 9, 2013 by S750WP

[S750WP]

Some update on the PCIII, after installation and uploading the map from Power Commander Website, the bike bogs down at 1500rpm. I checked the fuel map it was set very rich at the 1500-2000rpm. I do a comparison with a Z1000 (muzzy exhaust) PC map and I could see a spike for the Z750 PC map fuel setting at low rpm.

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/2013%5C09%5C09%5Cbikepics-2596107-800.jpg

 

I lean down the low rpm fuel delivery using the button on the PCIII face plate, it fixed the problem, it pull strongly now and I notice the bike temp does not shoot up so fast compare to before and engine is very smooth.

 

Now monitoring the FC (drops significantly after installing PC3), hopes it gets better after leaning down the fuel delivery for the low rpm, as mostly cruising at 4500-5000rpm range.

Edited September 22, 2013 by S750WP

[S750WP]

Fuel mileage of my bike had drop to 14km/L from 19km/L after installing the PC3. Read from the PC3 there is a add on function called accelerator pump, I have read mixed review on these function, mostly feedback no effect and bad gas mileage.

 

http://www.powercommander.com/downloads/Support-Released/PCIIIUSB/Manuals/AcceleratorPump.pdf

 

After I disable the accel pump function, and reload the same map again, the bog down at 1500rpm was gone I do not need to lean down the fuel delivery in the low rpm range anymore

 

I compare the other maps from Power Commander website.

 

214-507, (2004-2005 Europe model) is rich

214-001, (2005 Z750) is leaner compare to 214-507

214-501, (2004 Z750 Germany model) is leaner compare to 214-001

 

I upload the 214-501 map to my PC3, will monitor the fuel consumption again

[S750WP]

Fuel Map comparison

 

214-501 (fuel delivery increase 15-30% in the mid range)

http://p1.bikepics.com/2013%5C10%5C04%5Cbikepics-2603252-800.jpg

 

214-507 (fuel delivery increase 30-50% in the mid range)

http://p1.bikepics.com/2013%5C09%5C09%5Cbikepics-2596107-800.jpg

 

The 214-507 fuel delivery surge from 1500rpm onwards.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2013%5C10%5C04%5Cbikepics-2603253-800.jpg

 

Will visit shop to run dyno after I get a slip on pipe.

Edited October 5, 2013 by S750WP

[S750WP]

Bought a set of lowering kit from CJ accessories, approx $55 inclusive of shipping to Singapore.

 

http://www.cjaccessories.co.uk/images/P/1jack-31.bmp

 

The previous owner installed a ZX10R rear shock and it raise the height of the bike slightly, I am 175cm and my feet is unable to rest flat on the ground. Its very difficult for me to use my feet to push the bike during stationary.

 

CJ informed me the distance measure from center of the hole to the next hole is 185mm which is 5mm greater than stock. This will lower my bike by 20mm. They have other kit to lower to 45mm as well.

 

I will post up the procedure to replace the link soon.

Edited November 9, 2013 by S750WP

[S750WP]

While troubleshooting the poor gas mileage issue, I read from the service manual that the ECU grounding is very important.

 

Firstly

 

The new Slim IU which I installed not too long ago will cause a spark on the negative terminals on the battery, and the throttle body secondary valve will activate for abt 2secs when the ground wire touch the battery negative terminal. I disconnect the IU white wire and connect it to the tail light fuse instead. Now there is no more spark when I touch the ground wire at the negative terminals.

 

Secondly

 

While checking the grounding I found the ECU tray flooded with water caused by dirt clogging the drain hole, which could damage the ECU if its soak in water. After cleaned off the dirt by pulling through with cable tie, water is able to drain out very fast. I then unplug the ECU connectors and check, luckily no signs of water as there are seal on the connectors to prevent water seeping in (very clever design by Kawasaki Engineers). I spray contact cleaner to clean up the ECU connectors and reinstall everything back.

 

Update 18 Nov,

 

The FC increase tremendously, 200km it will hit the reserve, after installing the PC 3 with map from Power Commander website. This has pose an issue when riding up north to Hatyai last week, the fuel tank is almost empty before reaching the next gas station about 200km away. After removed the PC3 the FC revert back to normal, 280-290km before reserve. Conclusion the map from Power Commander is far too rich and it needs custom map from dyno run result to optimize the a/f setting for my bike.

Edited November 18, 2013 by S750WP

[S750WP]

Went to Motormatic to replace the fork oil seal which is leaking last Saturday, at the same time install the lowering kit from CJ accessories, the hole to hole distance of the dog bone is 190mm, its 5mm more than the original installed. The bike lower by approx 1 inch, now both my feet is able to rest flat on the ground, using my leg to reverse my bike is a breeze now. Motormatic mechanic informed my front brake pads are gone during the fork removal, the brake pad is worn beyond the serviceable limit, approx 0.5 mm left before the copper backing plate.

 

The BRAKING sintered brake pads that I was using was change last year Oct, went to Thailand thrice with these, and it offer good braking power. Once during emergency brake, it stop my bike almost instantly and I was almost doing a stoppie when my rear tires lifted off the ground slightly. The only drawback is there is alot of brake dust, cost the same as EBC HH and it wear out quite fast.

 

I decide to try the GoldFren S33 sintered metal brake pads, after reading good review on it (similar braking efficiency as the EBC HH). Cost $28 per pair from FJT (half the price of EBC HH) and there is a SS metal backing plate at the back to isolate the heat from the brake pads to the brake piston.

http://motorcyclesafetynews.com/?p=1994

 

From GoldFren USA Website

http://www.goldfren.cz/_img_pads/big/all-s33-off-road.jpg

The S33 (offroad) sintered compound is optimal for ambitious first-class pro level off-road riders who demand the ultimate edge on their racing with absolute great stopping power and exceptional brake pad longevity.

The S33 (offroad) series is currently used in motocross world championship races.

The S33 (offroad) series is designed for low abrasive interaction the rotor while providing high braking power, long life and self-cleaning capabilities necessary for off-road riding conditions. Additionally, the S33 rear pads feature a stainless-steel heat shield for thermal isolation.

The S33 (offroad) compound contains all-metal friction materials and finer metal friction admixtures evenly distributed in the base structure designed to achieve the greatest friction properties possible under heavy conditions.

[altya]

Wonder if u help people do carb balancing or valve clearance? haha..

 

Where u get e fairing clips btw?

[S750WP]

Wonder if u help people do carb balancing or valve clearance? haha..

 

Where u get e fairing clips btw?

 

Yes I am helping people to service bike for a fee, PM me your bike model and year if you keen.

 

The fairing clips I bought it from Ebay, I still have a bunch which I could sell you if needed.

[S750WP]

Went to Motormatic to replace the fork oil seal which is leaking last Saturday, at the same time install the lowering kit from CJ accessories, the hole to hole distance of the dog bone is 190mm, its 5mm more than the original installed. The bike lower by approx 1 inch, now both my feet is able to rest flat on the ground, using my leg to reverse my bike is a breeze now. Motormatic mechanic informed my front brake pads are gone during the fork removal, the brake pad is worn beyond the serviceable limit, approx 0.5 mm left before the copper backing plate.

 

The BRAKING sintered brake pads that I was using was change last year Oct, went to Thailand thrice with these, and it offer good braking power. Once during emergency brake, it stop my bike almost instantly and I was almost doing a stoppie when my rear tires lifted off the ground slightly. The only drawback is there is alot of brake dust, cost the same as EBC HH and it wear out quite fast.

 

I decide to try the GoldFren S33 sintered metal brake pads, after reading good review on it (similar braking efficiency as the EBC HH). Cost $28 per pair from FJT (half the price of EBC HH) and there is a SS metal backing plate at the back to isolate the heat from the brake pads to the brake piston.

http://motorcyclesafetynews.com/?p=1994

 

From GoldFren USA Website

http://www.goldfren.cz/_img_pads/big/all-s33-off-road.jpg

The S33 (offroad) sintered compound is optimal for ambitious first-class pro level off-road riders who demand the ultimate edge on their racing with absolute great stopping power and exceptional brake pad longevity.

The S33 (offroad) series is currently used in motocross world championship races.

The S33 (offroad) series is designed for low abrasive interaction the rotor while providing high braking power, long life and self-cleaning capabilities necessary for off-road riding conditions. Additionally, the S33 rear pads feature a stainless-steel heat shield for thermal isolation.

The S33 (offroad) compound contains all-metal friction materials and finer metal friction admixtures evenly distributed in the base structure designed to achieve the greatest friction properties possible under heavy conditions.

 

Update on the Goldfren S33 brake pads

 

1. There is very little brake dust compare to the BRAKING and Vesrah brake pads, I think its going to last longer (BRAKING and Vesrah wear to the limit in less than a year)

2. The uneven wear on the brake disc is smooth out after using for 3 months

3. Good braking power for street use (dry and wet) but not as strong at the BRAKING brake pads

4. The grip is progressive and not brake abruptly

 

The Goldfren S33 is value for money, I will stick to these pads for my next brake pad replacement.