2004 Kawasaki Z750 DIY Guide

[S750WP]

Starting a new thread to share the resource for fellow enthusiastic riding the same model whom is interested to DIY.

 

Kawasaki Genuine Parts

Motormatic

33 Jalan Pendekar 2

Taman Ungku Tun Aminah, 81300 Johor Bahru, Johor, Malaysia

Ah Man: +6012-7171779

 

Jack (Parts Seller from JB)

[email protected]

whatsapp +60177999008

 

Redline Products

Kai Guan Company

No.3 Upper Aljunied Link

#01-03 Block B, Joo Seng Warehouse

Singapore 367903

 

Tel: +65 6382 3003

http://www.kaiguan.com.sg/

 

Engine Oil and Spark Plugs

MXTRADINGS

The Frontier

Blk 50 Ubi Ave 3

#05-13 Singapore 408866

 

HP: 90262657 (Nicholas)

http://www.mxtradings.com

 

Insurance Renewal

Anda

18 Sin Ming Lane

#02-10 Midview City S573960

Tel: 65542288

http://www.anda.com.sg/prg/intro.asp#contact

 

KingTony Tools

Boon Soon Industrial Hardware

#01-185, 3021 Ubi Avenue 2, (S)408897

6743 1951

 

Armaflex Insulation

NORTH EAST REFRIGERATION PARTS PTE LTD

HEAD OFFICE

Address : No.35 Ubi Crescent

Singapore 408585

Telephone: +65 6749 2832

 

Radiator Servicing

URS Radiator Service

#01-454, 3007 Ubi Road 1, (S)408701

 

Scrap Yard

Ah Ann Trading

74 Sungei Kadut St 1

 

Bike Fabricator

No 10 Kaki Bukit Rd 2 #03-27

 

Powder Coating

Yon Sheng Powder Coating - 6281 7962

Blk 31 Sin Ming Dr #01-287 Singapore 575705

 

Siong Kwong Metal Works - 6250 2446

Blk 12 , Toa Payoh Industrial Park

Lorong 8 ,#01-1191 Singapore 319064

 

Ong & Ong

David H/P: 98181913 ; Tel : 62875086

Address : #01-464 Blk 11 Defu Lane 10

Edited September 11, 2013 by S750WP

[S750WP]

Kawasaki Z750 Specification

 

http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

[S750WP]

Spark Plug

NGK Standard CR9EK: $8 ea(KS Motorcyle)

NGK Iridium CR9EIX: $11 ea (MX Tradings )

 

Oil Filter

Honda Superfour oil filter: $16 ea (Eversuccess), $15ea(FJT)

 

Coolant

Maxima Cool Aide 2L: $18.40 (Mustaffa)

Redline water wetter : $16 per bot(MX tradings)

 

Battery

Yuasa YTX-9BS: $55 (Lim Ah Boy)

 

Air Filter Kit

K&N Air filter cleaning kit: $22(Lim Ah Boy)

 

Radiator Cap

Honda Radiator Cap 1.1bar: $15 (Planet Motor)

 

Brake Pads

Vesrah semi sintered front brake pads:$36 (Eversuccess)

Braking sintered front brake pads: $130 (Motovation)

 

Grips

BMW Grips: $24 (Performance Motor Ltd)

 

Coolant Hose

OEM rubber hose: $142 (Motormatic @ JB Skudai)

Silicon hose : $45 (Ebay)

 

Brake Disc

Arashi front brake disc DBS036W (L and R) : $210 inclusive of shipping (Ebay Seller Neverland)

Edited September 9, 2013 by S750WP

[S750WP]

Valve Clearance Instruction

 

http://www.riderforums.com/z1k-z750-maintenance/41623-valve-adjustment-how.html

 

Parts needed

1X Head cover gasket 11061-1165

6X Head cover bolt o-ring 92055-1352

4X Spark plug hole gasket(the old one become hardened)

Hotcam Valve shim kit (7.48mm)

Edited July 21, 2012 by S750WP

[S750WP]

Started to DIY the valve clearance today, as found engine oil leaking from the cam cover gasket.

 

1.Remove the seat on the bike

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/06/30/bikepics-2422278-full.jpg

 

2.Remove the right hand side covers

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/06/30/bikepics-2422281-full.jpg

 

3.Disconnect the fuel pump wire and fuel level indicator wire.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/06/30/bikepics-2422284-full.jpg

 

4.Disconnect the fuel tank drain tubing

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/06/30/bikepics-2422283-full.jpg

 

5.Disconnect the fuel line.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/06/30/bikepics-2422285-full.jpg

 

6. Remove the fuel tank.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/06/30/bikepics-2422293-full.jpg

Edited July 19, 2012 by S750WP

[S750WP]

7. Remove the raidator cap

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/06/30/bikepics-2422294-full.jpg

 

8. Drain off the coolant (Very good design, the plug on the engine block drain abit of coolant for the valve clearance job)

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/06/30/bikepics-2422295-full.jpg

 

9. Disconnect all the wire connectors, remove the coolant pipe and remove the thermostat assembly.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/06/30/bikepics-2422300-full.jpg

 

 

10. Mark out all the coil connection and disconnect the coil connectors.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/06/30/bikepics-2422303-full.jpg

Edited June 30, 2012 by S750WP

[S750WP]

11. Disconnect the vent tubing from the airbox

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/06/30/bikepics-2422304-full.jpg

 

12. Disconnect the vent tubing from the cam cover and remove all tubings

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/06/30/bikepics-2422306-full.jpg

 

13. The cam cover is now free from all obstruction.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/06/30/bikepics-2422305-full.jpg

 

14. Remove the coil and the vent cover.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/06/30/bikepics-2422307-full.jpg

 

15. Remove all the spark plugs.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/06/30/bikepics-2422309-full.jpg

 

16. Remove the cam cover and cleaned off the old gasket sealant.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/06/30/bikepics-2422310-full.jpg

 

17. Remove the signal generator cover.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/06/30/bikepics-2422311-full.jpg

Edited June 30, 2012 by S750WP

[S750WP]

Check the Valve clearance all within spec except Cyl 1 EX is too tight, will remove the CAM and changed the shims tomorrow.

[S750WP]

Proceed with shim replacement on Cyl 1 Ex left hand side.

 

1. Count and mark the cam chain (30 teeth.), with pain markers. IN and EX cam shaft painted should face away from each other, signal generator at T1.4 and Cyl 4 IN and EX cam lobes pointing 45 degree away from each other, later during assembly must resume back to this condition for proper timing.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012%5C07%5C01%5Cbikepics-2422701-800.jpg

 

2. Take note there are 4 bolts there are chrome (longer and its placed where the dowel pins are located)

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012%5C07%5C01%5Cbikepics-2422703-800.jpg

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012%5C07%5C01%5Cbikepics-2422705-800.jpg

 

3. Tied the cam chain to the frame to prevent it from falling into the cam chain tunnel when removing the cam shaft.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012%5C07%5C01%5Cbikepics-2422707-800.jpg

 

4. Remove the cam chain tensioner, depress the stopper and push back the pusher.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012%5C07%5C01%5Cbikepics-2422708-800.jpg

 

5. Remove the cam shaft cover by slowly loosening the bolts from right hand side to left hand side,then removing them completely.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012%5C07%5C01%5Cbikepics-2422711-800.jpg

 

6, Once the cam shaft cover is removed, proceed to remove the cam shaft and replaced the shim under the bucket. (I replaced a 3.0mm to 2.95mm shim)

 

7. Put back the cam shaft and lubricate the cam shaft and cam shaft covers with engine assembly lube (I am using redline product)

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012%5C07%5C01%5Cbikepics-2422710-800.jpg

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012%5C07%5C01%5Cbikepics-2422712-full.jpg

 

8. I deviate from the manual to install the CCT temporarily first as the method suggest by the manual will put tension on the cam chain and the cam chain will jump out of the sprocket when I tighten the cam shaft cover causing the timing to misalign.

 

9. Instead I alighned the cam shaft sprocket to the cam chain first (white paint which I marked earlier), put a big spanner resting on the chain between the cam shaft sprocket (this helps to prevent the cam chain jumping off the sprocket). Slowly tighten the cam shaft covers evenly, installed the cam chain guide. Finally installed the CCT, and turn the signal generator for 2 rounds clockwise. The CCT spring will extend out and put tension to the cam chain during the rotation.

 

10. Proceed to check the timing of the cam chain and check the valve clearance again for the valve which the shim was replaced. (mine were within spec after the shim replacement). Reassemble everything, and replaced all the old gaskets.

 

11. Finally check the throttle bottle sync (mine was ok, as I did it last month).

 

12. Enjoy the smoother ride.

Edited July 18, 2012 by S750WP

[S750WP]

vacuum syn procedure is here

 

http://www.kawiforums.com/how-tos-faqs/156754-how-engine-vacuum-sync.html

 

Document the procedure here for future reference, the procedure in the manual is not fully correct.

 

1. Clean the bypass valve of any carbon (remove the bypass screw and spray with carb cleaner in the hole) before proceeding with the throttle bodies syn.

2. After cleaning turned in the bypass screw all the way in for max vacuum reading (cw vacuum reading increase)

3. Syn cyl 1 and 2 by adj the bypass screw of the cyl to match the lower reading. i.e Cyl 1: 220mm Cyl 2: 230mm, adj cyl 2 bypass screw ccw, such that cyl 2 match cyl 1 reading.

4. Do the same for cyl 3 and 4

5. Adj the center screw to match cyl 1&2 to cyl 3&4 i.e Cyl 1&2: 240mm, Cyl 3&4: 220mm (CW: Cyl 3&4 vacuum reading will increase)

6.Check the idle speed is at 1100rpm and blip the throttle after each adj to verify. Syn is completed when all the cyl have the same vac reading at idle and all cyl vac reading should rise simultaneously to the same level when blip the throttle.

 

Before Adjustment

http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/8249/vacuumprima.jpg

 

After Adjustment

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/4033/vacuumdopo.jpg

Edited December 30, 2012 by S750WP

[S750WP]

DIY Hazard light switch. Idea from here :http://www.kawiforums.com/ninja-250r/180126-diy-ninja-250r-hazard-lights.html

 

 

The switch I bought from ebay

 

http://stores.ebay.com/PeakMoto-Online/Electrical-/_i.html?_fcid=180&_fsub=12&_jgr=0&_localstpos=&_sid=140407121&_stpos=&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322&gbr=1

 

I am using the stock flasher relay and follow the wiring as follow, I will tap into the wiring harness on the LHS handle bar switch and not at the rear as the wiring will be neater this way.. Basically I need to tap into 3 wires, the left and right signal wire and the relay flasher wire and connect up to the switch.

 

Left signal: Green Wire

Right:Grey Wire

Flasher Relay Output: Orange Wire

 

http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/9313/diagrambv.jpg

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/2011/07/31/bikepics-2248950-full.jpg

Edited July 19, 2012 by S750WP

[stoner]

Cool..... Damn good write up!

[S750WP]

Handle Bar Grips Replacement (BMW Grips)

 

1. Loosen the screws (coated with thread locking compound) with a impact driver and remove the screws and balancer

 

2. Remove the old grips

 

3. Soak the new grips in soapy water for easy installation.

 

4. New grips in, put back the balancer, apply loctite to the screws and tighten. Enjoy the new grips.

[CSV]

haha, S750wp really is the man!

 

how's the new grip feeling?

[S750WP]

haha, S750wp really is the man!

 

how's the new grip feeling?

 

The design of the grips fit the palm nicely and eliminate numbness on the hand, worth the $$.

[avantgarde120]

Interesting and very informative even though i ride an FZ1S,some of the ideas might be put to good use.

Thanks a bunch!

[S750WP]

Interesting and very informative even though i ride an FZ1S,some of the ideas might be put to good use.

Thanks a bunch!

 

Glad to know its useful.

[S750WP]

DIY to install ARKON SM032 GPS mount

 

I bought the Arkon SM032 from Ebay.

Arkon website http://www.arkon.com/gps.php

 

Its not possible to mount Arkon GPS mount on Z750 handle because of the tight clearance when the handle bar is swing to either end, the GPS holder will hit the fuel tank. I tried to mount on the brake reservoir cap with a bracket but there is risk of brake fluid spurting out and ruin the bike paintwork because the brake reservoir cap will not be fully tighten. So I mount it to my mirror stem.

 

1. Buy some adhesive thick foam and wrap it around the mirror stem.

2. Install the GPS ball mount bracket around the foam and tighten, very sturdy.

3. Mount the GPS

Edited July 31, 2012 by S750WP

[avantgarde120]

Nice work!

[S750WP]

DIY to replace the coolant hose and spark plug today.

 

The Z750 spark plugs at the middle is difficult to remove, the wiring has to be disconnected and the thermostat assembly removed to access to the spark plug. Its a good opprotunity to replace the spark plugs at the same time when replacing the coolant hose, I decided to replace all the coolant hose as one of them has a crack which resulted in leak due to old age, almost got stranded in Malacca as a result, and black tape was used to wrap around the crack hose to continue to ride back to Singapore.

 

The procedure as follow.

 

1. Remove the fuel tank.

 

2. Remove the coolant drain bolt located at the left hand side near to the front sprocket and open up the raidator cap to drain all the coolant. Flush with distilled water until the water comes out clear.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/10/28/bikepics-2472853-full.jpg

 

3. Remove all the old coolant hose and use a fine sand paper to sand the rusty pipe so the new hose will sit firmly and coolant will not leak.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/10/28/bikepics-2472855-full.jpg

 

4. Removed the old spark plugs and fit in new spark plugs when hose and the thermostat assembly is removed

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/10/28/bikepics-2472854-full.jpg

 

5. Fit in the new coolant hose and clean the reservoir tank and reassemble everything back.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/10/28/bikepics-2472856-full.jpg

 

6. Filled with new coolant and rev the bike and filled the coolant to the brim. Top up the reservoir tank until it reached the full mark.

[S750WP]

DIY for Front brake pad renewal and bleeding the brakes.

 

My brake pads are worn to the limit after about 25000km and its causing marks on my newly install Arashi brake disc.

 

1. Remove the 2 bolts holding the calipers on the fork legs. Cover the fuel tank with rags to prevent brake fluid from splashing.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/10/28/bikepics-2472848-full.jpg

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/10/29/bikepics-2473271-full.jpg

 

2. Diassemble the old brake pads from the caliper and clean the brake piston, I use wire bush and water.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/10/29/bikepics-2473274-full.jpg

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/10/29/bikepics-2473272-full.jpg

http://p1.bikepics.com/2011/02/12/bikepics-2150911-full.jpg

 

3. Clean the pins with wire brush and lubricate.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/10/29/bikepics-2473275-full.jpg

 

4. Used a G clamp to push back the pistons and installed the new brake pads

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/10/29/bikepics-2473276-full.jpg

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/10/29/bikepics-2473273-full.jpg

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/10/29/bikepics-2473277-full.jpg

 

5. Mount the caliper backs and press the brake lever gently to extend the brake piston evenly.

 

Bleed the brakes

 

1. Fit a 10mm hex wrench aorund the bleed nipple and connect a tubing to the bleed nipple. The end of the tubing insert to a empty bottle to catch the old brake fluid

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/10/29/bikepics-2473278-full.jpg

 

2. Remove the brake reservoir cover screws

 

3. Pump the brake lever for 5-6 times and hold the brake lever firmly, do not let go. Loosen the brake nipples by turning counter clockwise, the brake lever will now able to travel further until it fully compress (hold and do not let go), you will see old brake fluid bleed from the nipple through the tubing to the empty bottle.

 

9. Tighten the brake nipple and slowly released the brake lever.

 

10. Repeat step 7 and 8 process until the brake reservoir is almost low but not empty, top up with fresh brake fluid until all the old brake fluid is flushed out and new brake fluid start to flow out from the tubing.

 

11. Reassemble everthing and clean off any brake fluid residue as brake fluid will eat and damage the paintwork.

Edited November 9, 2012 by S750WP

[S750WP]

My front brake pulsate badly during hard braking, this happened with the combination of Arashi brake rotors and the new sintered Braking Pads, was running fine with the badly worn Vesrah semi metal brake pads.

 

The problem was due to the burs on the edges (feel very sharp) on the Arashi brake rotors, the new pads has full contact with the brake disc while the old Vesrah has worn out with only minimal contact with the burs. When I jack the front wheel and spin it I could hear slight gazing sound from the rotors and the brake pads.

 

I used grade 1500 fine sand paper to dry sand the edges and the cut out on the rotor until they feel smooth to the touch. The 1500 grade sand paper did not cause any scratch mark on the disc rotor. I also sand the brake pads to smoothed the surface, the gazing sound was gone after all the sharp edges are smoothen out. I also take the opprotunity to polished the caliper pins where they go through and the brake pads guiding hole. I needed copper grease to lube the pin so the pads can glide smoothly on the pins.

 

Washed and clean away the brake dust and tested the front brake under hard braking and now the pulsating is gone.

 

For bike with dual front brake caliper, I have read from Galfer installation guide the wave pattern should be offset (peaks should match with the valleys) else there will vibration. As such the Arashi wavy rotors was installed offset on my bike.

 

[video=youtube;mO-ZLX2z07s]

Edited November 10, 2012 by S750WP

[S750WP]

Update on the Arashi brake disc

 

The brake disc still pulsate slightly, remove the bolts on one of the disc and further offset the peaks and valleys of the brake disc, secure the bolts with new loctite. Ride for a day the pulsate was totally gone, the Arashi brake disc feel as good as OEM and it stopped and holds firmly at hard braking, I am totally impressed with the quality of the Arashi brake disc, its very good value for money.

[S750WP]

DIY to replace the throttle and clutch cables as they are very old. Took the chance to clean the throttle body since I have to take it out to replace the throttle cables.

 

1. Remove the brake lever and split the right hand side switch to half by removing the 2 screws.

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/12/09/bikepics-2488444-full.jpg

 

2. Unhook the cables from the throttle grip

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/12/09/bikepics-2488437-full.jpg

 

3. Remove the 2 screws on the LHS switch and split open the casing to disengage the choke cable

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/12/09/bikepics-2488439-full.jpg

 

4. Remove seats, fuel tank, all side panels, loosen all 8 screws clamping on the throttle body, and remove the injectors main connector and tubing connecting to the throttle body.

 

5. Remove the bolt on each side of the airbox, then pull back the airbox

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/12/09/bikepics-2488446-full.jpg

 

6. Pull back the throttle body and slowly wiggle it to the LHS and out of the bike.

 

7. Clean the throttle body with carb cleaner, concentrate to spray on all orifice and brush the carbon off with fine brush.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/12/09/bikepics-2488441-full.jpg

 

8. After cleaning, remove the old throttle cables and replace with new one. (Oil the new cable and grease both end)

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/12/09/bikepics-2488435-full.jpg

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/12/09/bikepics-2488442-full.jpg

 

9. Reinstall everything back together and adjust the free play on the throttle cables according to manual.

 

10. Next to replace the clutch cable, remove the clutch lever nut and the screws and remove the clutch lever

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/12/09/bikepics-2488445-full.jpg

 

11. Route the new cable following the old cable path, loosen the lock nuts on the old cable and unhook the cable from the clutch pulley

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/12/09/bikepics-2488440-full.jpg

 

12. Hook up the new cable, reinstall the clutch lever and adjust the free play according to manual. (Oil the new cable and grease both end)

 

Reassemble fuel tank and the side panels and enjoy the smoothness of the new cable.

[S750WP]

DIY to change the engine oil, its very straight forward with some basic tool.

 

1. Standby all the basic tools and warm up the engine for 5-10mins to heat up the oil so it can flow smoothly out.

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/12/15/bikepics-2490843-full.jpg

 

2. Remove the oil drain plug with a 17mm socket to drain out the old engine oil

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/12/15/bikepics-2490840-full.jpg

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/12/15/bikepics-2490844-full.jpg

 

3. Remove the oil filter to drain out the oil (the oil filter can last for 12000KM). I changed it every alternate oil replacement at 5000km/6month.

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/12/15/bikepics-2490841-full.jpg

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/12/15/bikepics-2490845-full.jpg

 

4. Let the old engine oil drain for 10-15mins. then reinstall the drain bolt and oil filter.

 

5. Open the engine oil cap and use a funnel to pour in the new engine oil. The Z750 requires 3.2L of engine oil (removal of oil filter)

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/12/15/bikepics-2490842-full.jpg

 

6. Check the engine oil level at the side viewing window, top up if necessary.

 

7. Cleaned up any oil and check for any leaks.