Honda NSR150SP Riders

[deespace]

Anyone know where can I replace or fix my kickstarter lever? Cus when riding, the pedal keep falling out.

[Heathx]

Anyone know where can I replace or fix my kickstarter lever? Cus when riding, the pedal keep falling out.

 

Most motorshop can help. Either to tighten the kick starter, or to replace if it cannot be tightened. What i know some people do is they use some industrial grade magnets to hold the pedal in place. Others use velcro strap to tie it in place after kicking. Some even use cable tie.

[jbdoggy]

When i did at paint extreme, i just showed them the picture, then they did everything for me, i just paid and collected bike. But i believe the red and black stripes are stickers.

 

Usually they will just spray the base, then the additional layers are usually stickers. But if you tell them u want full spray, then they spray for you accordingly and charge accordingly also. At the end, they will always lacquer over the end-product.

 

Know what you want exactly, and show and tell them you want as what you show, no less. They will do their best to suit your design to your fairings, and sometimes they will tell you what can, what cannot. The small small stickers, you check with them if they can do it for you, otherwise offer to buy and pass to them to help you stick before they lacquer the final product.

 

Thanks hope you & every1 else had a nice long weekend!

 

I just topped up my 2t. Apparently Uncle Cheong set my 2t pump to be quite lean. After abt 60+ litres of fuel I only topped up abt 850+ ml into my tank. So dosage less then 1:50 minimum specified on the 2t container. So the balance 100+ ml I just pour into my full fuel tank. So pump + this premix add together abt 1:30 dosage for this week at least. I thought like this should still be ok right?

 

1) Dunno whether the above practice had anything to do with it or not, but the day after i did it, a little engine bogging at start up. Other curiousities at other times - high idling speed after stopping, but after turning the idling knob to bring back down to normal, at the next stop or 2, the idling speed can drop to abt 800 revs & die. Then in te morning my idling speed is 1.8k revs which is higher then normal but can later drop to abt just above 1k when warmed up, but kick into 1st gear & engine dies.

 

Then today, 1st & 2nd gear feel very heavy. Like cannot accelerate, even after engine warmed up. Feel as if cant even get past 6k revs. Feel so draggy, no power & rough. But less draggy & rough in higher gears.

 

2) So even with this 1:60+ lean mix, i still kena comment for smoke & warned abt NEA fines during inspection. But inspector still pass me overall. But if follow the minimum 1:50 def more smoke. So how? A friend sent me an article abt someone with 2t bike, pass inspection but kena fine from NEA for smoke & kena send for reinspection. Reinspection pass again. But risk of fine from NEA & sending for another reinspection will always be there if suey.

 

I think all this is gov way to phase out all 2t bikes on the road & earn $$ in the process - want to keep bike, pay fine & reinspection fees. Dun want to pay all these, get a 4t bike kinda thing.

[Heathx]

Thanks hope you & every1 else had a nice long weekend!

 

I just topped up my 2t. Apparently Uncle Cheong set my 2t pump to be quite lean. After abt 60+ litres of fuel I only topped up abt 850+ ml into my tank. So dosage less then 1:50 minimum specified on the 2t container. So the balance 100+ ml I just pour into my full fuel tank. So pump + this premix add together abt 1:30 dosage for this week at least. I thought like this should still be ok right?

 

1) Dunno whether the above practice had anything to do with it or not, but the day after i did it, a little engine bogging at start up. Other curiousities at other times - high idling speed after stopping, but after turning the idling knob to bring back down to normal, at the next stop or 2, the idling speed can drop to abt 800 revs & die. Then in te morning my idling speed is 1.8k revs which is higher then normal but can later drop to abt just above 1k when warmed up, but kick into 1st gear & engine dies.

 

Then today, 1st & 2nd gear feel very heavy. Like cannot accelerate, even after engine warmed up. Feel as if cant even get past 6k revs. Feel so draggy, no power & rough. But less draggy & rough in higher gears.

 

2) So even with this 1:60+ lean mix, i still kena comment for smoke & warned abt NEA fines during inspection. But inspector still pass me overall. But if follow the minimum 1:50 def more smoke. So how? A friend sent me an article abt someone with 2t bike, pass inspection but kena fine from NEA for smoke & kena send for reinspection. Reinspection pass again. But risk of fine from NEA & sending for another reinspection will always be there if suey.

 

I think all this is gov way to phase out all 2t bikes on the road & earn $$ in the process - want to keep bike, pay fine & reinspection fees. Dun want to pay all these, get a 4t bike kinda thing.

 

2T, don't put too much for no reason. 1:30 is too much... that's like 33ml per litre. You have a high chance of fouling your spark plug. Just keep to 1:50, won't go wrong one. It may be the reason for the entire point 1. Basically safe range of 2T is btn 18-22ml per litre of petrol if you are just commuting.

 

I can't really help you too much on this as i'm not technical background. Basically when i had problems like this in the past, i just go to my mech, tell him what issue i face, then he help me adjust. If i not happy with the setting, he help me adjust until i ok with the setting. But not all mechs are that nice, and a lot depends on how much reputation points you got with your mech.

 

2T bikes will always be at risk for white smoke and NEA fines. I got a letter from NEA before to send bike for inspection due to white smoke too when i started riding. But since i changed my end can, and changed to motul 800 at 18-20ml per litre ratio, no more letters from NEA. Basically, lousy grade 2T will give more white smoke. Too much 2T will also give more white smoke. The last factor is if your exhaust and endcan has a lot of residue 2T which was not burnt away, which was what happened in my case as i was using Maxima Castor 927 but i didnt go high rev often enough.

[FireGunz]

Hi Seniors, does any of you ever counter this occur sometime when accelerate throttle in gear 1 or 2 at around 20 - 30 km & decelerate throttle can hear (when at quiet place e.g: car park) abit soft of the metal rubbing sound (the sound "E" "O") around the front underneath the handler bar. Which i thought was the fork or the wheel but I stop the bike (in Neutral gear) & shake the handler bar (to test the fork - no sound) also bouncing the rider seat (test the suspension sound - no sound) & the last part at Neutral gear moving without engine on - same no sound.

 

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[wait4me]

should be the brake disc.

 

1.brakes dirty

2. disc wrap

[sporeknight]

should be the brake disc.

 

1.brakes dirty

2. disc wrap

 

Yup agree. Most likely yr front disc brake unit. Pls chk also if yr brake pads hav worn off.

[FireGunz]

should be the brake disc.

 

1.brakes dirty

2. disc wrap

 

Yup agree. Most likely yr front disc brake unit. Pls chk also if yr brake pads hav worn off.

 

Ok, Thank bro. By the way, how to clean if brakes dirty / disc wrap also how to check whether the brake pads is worn off?

 

I did try to test the front brake by jamming hard abit (in very slow speed) to stop the bike & it seem fine. (may be my test front brake method is wrong?)

 

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Edited August 14, 2015 by FireGunz

[FireGunz]

Hi Seniors, does any of you using the "BROQUET" before?

 

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[jbdoggy]

2T, don't put too much for no reason. 1:30 is too much... that's like 33ml per litre. You have a high chance of fouling your spark plug. Just keep to 1:50, won't go wrong one. It may be the reason for the entire point 1. Basically safe range of 2T is btn 18-22ml per litre of petrol if you are just commuting.

 

I can't really help you too much on this as i'm not technical background. Basically when i had problems like this in the past, i just go to my mech, tell him what issue i face, then he help me adjust. If i not happy with the setting, he help me adjust until i ok with the setting. But not all mechs are that nice, and a lot depends on how much reputation points you got with your mech.

 

2T bikes will always be at risk for white smoke and NEA fines. I got a letter from NEA before to send bike for inspection due to white smoke too when i started riding. But since i changed my end can, and changed to motul 800 at 18-20ml per litre ratio, no more letters from NEA. Basically, lousy grade 2T will give more white smoke. Too much 2T will also give more white smoke. The last factor is if your exhaust and endcan has a lot of residue 2T which was not burnt away, which was what happened in my case as i was using Maxima Castor 927 but i didnt go high rev often enough.

 

Thanks bro. Ya all my problems was because of too much 2t. Uncle Cheong readjusted my jetting & all well again. To fully cure need to consume all the remaining fuel in the tank & top up with fresh fuel.

 

Did some study on all these premix dosages & learnt that more 2t leans out your air/fuel mixture. So if for eg you increase from 1:50 to say 1:45 or 1:40 still ok. But if you make more drastic increase to 1:30 or 1:20 then unless you retune your carb your engine will have problems. So mine was abt 1:60+ initially, then simply increase to abt 1:30 w/o adjusting carb, no wonder my engine became sick!!

 

But quite honestly i dont know much abt all these dosages & how that 1 article i read claims 1:20 is the ideal, 1:30 is good, 1:40 is ok & 1:50 not recommended. Then I came across this in 1 very old thread here:

 

1:20 is for racing.

1:40-1:50 is for road/occasional race

1:60 is for well tuned bikes whose mixture is well-balanced, with proper jetting and spark plug type used

1:70 is for the gutsy. Benefits are low smoke, crisp and fast response.

You might want to try 1:40 first then slowly reduce it the ratio to 1:50, then 1:60.

 

1:50 is quite a good mix. (1L of 2T to 50L of petrol)

I am currently using 1:80. I pour 90ml of 2T for 7.1litres of petrol.

 

I hv doubts his 1:60 to 1:80 comment, but my impression is its too lean & might be insufficient lubrication. Maybe you might be able to shed some light here. As it is im a bit concerned abt my 2t dosage being a bit too lean at the moment.

 

edit:Then i chanced over another article saying that typically bike manufacturers will set pumps, carbs & jettings for a default 1:32 mix. (if im understanding correctly)

Edited August 14, 2015 by jbdoggy

[jbdoggy]

Ok, Thank bro. By the way, how to clean if brakes dirty / disc wrap also how to check whether the brake pads is worn off?

 

I did try to test the front brake by jamming hard abit (in very slow speed) to stop the bike & it seem fine. (may be my test front brake method is wrong?)

 

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Easy to check. Squat down behind your brake caliper & you will be able to see the brake pads.

 

The side view of the brake pad will look like this: a slim rectangle & a fatter rectangle in front of it. When the fatter rectangle wears down to a particular marker situated close to the slim rectangle, its time to change pads. Read the owner's manual. It explains it better then i can type & describe.

 

Or if you feel as if you need to press your brake lever more to get the same braking power as before => that might be a sign.

 

There are 2 pdf downloads you can find:

 

1) owner's manual :http://mototh.com/files/honda/NSR150SP/Honda-NSR150SP-Owner-Manual-English.pdf

 

2)Service manual: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0jxdB5PbvS2NzNjMzYxYzQtMjgxZC00YWMzLWJlZjAtNWNjYmY4YzhjMTE5/view?ddrp=1&hl=en

[FireGunz]

Easy to check. Squat down behind your brake caliper & you will be able to see the brake pads.

 

The side view of the brake pad will look like this: a slim rectangle & a fatter rectangle in front of it. When the fatter rectangle wears down to a particular marker situated close to the slim rectangle, its time to change pads. Read the owner's manual. It explains it better then i can type & describe.

 

Or if you feel as if you need to press your brake lever more to get the same braking power as before => that might be a sign.

 

There are 2 pdf downloads you can find:

 

1) owner's manual :http://mototh.com/files/honda/NSR150SP/Honda-NSR150SP-Owner-Manual-English.pdf

 

2)Service manual: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0jxdB5PbvS2NzNjMzYxYzQtMjgxZC00YWMzLWJlZjAtNWNjYmY4YzhjMTE5/view?ddrp=1&hl=en

Thank Jbdoggy for info & links too.

 

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[sporeknight]

Ok, Thank bro. By the way, how to clean if brakes dirty / disc wrap also how to check whether the brake pads is worn off?

 

I did try to test the front brake by jamming hard abit (in very slow speed) to stop the bike & it seem fine. (may be my test front brake method is wrong?)

 

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"E" "O" sound is a bit tedious to chk. My opinions -

1. Chk yr brake pads lik wat Bro Jbdoggy mentioned. U nd to knw Hw thin is thin for yr brake pads to b chg. If NT brg to yr mech n ask him chk. Brake pads initially is abt 3mm thick. And u mus take note if u look from front, yr brake could b ok. Then u mus look behind view. Brake pads don wear off evenly. Certain sides wear off faster.

 

2. Svc yr brake calipers. When u press yr brakes, the calipers will protrude out n in turn push out yr brake pads. So if the calipers moving parts is rusty, could produce the sound too. Norm if chg brake pads my mech will use sand papers to sand the calipers. Btw, SP is more than 10yo bike. It is v rusty if u had nt svc them b4.

 

3. Clean yr brake discs wif water n chk the "circle areas" in contact wif yr brake pads. Hope u understand wat i mean by the "circle areas". The areas mus b smooth. If NT sand them.

 

4. Jack up yr front tyre if poss using a car jack. Turn yr front wheel manually if any abnormal sound. If ok, try apply brake v lightly when wheel is turning.

 

5. My mech has told me my front wheel bearings is loose. It is the part that yr fork hold onto yr front wheel n is at the centre of yr rim. The hollow part. There gt bearings. Tat may cause the sound too. May NT b yr brakes system

 

So bro, pls troubleshoot n let us knw wat is causing the sound.

[Heathx]

Thanks bro. Ya all my problems was because of too much 2t. Uncle Cheong readjusted my jetting & all well again. To fully cure need to consume all the remaining fuel in the tank & top up with fresh fuel.

 

Did some study on all these premix dosages & learnt that more 2t leans out your air/fuel mixture. So if for eg you increase from 1:50 to say 1:45 or 1:40 still ok. But if you make more drastic increase to 1:30 or 1:20 then unless you retune your carb your engine will have problems. So mine was abt 1:60+ initially, then simply increase to abt 1:30 w/o adjusting carb, no wonder my engine became sick!!

 

But quite honestly i dont know much abt all these dosages & how that 1 article i read claims 1:20 is the ideal, 1:30 is good, 1:40 is ok & 1:50 not recommended. Then I came across this in 1 very old thread here:

 

 

 

I hv doubts his 1:60 to 1:80 comment, but my impression is its too lean & might be insufficient lubrication. Maybe you might be able to shed some light here. As it is im a bit concerned abt my 2t dosage being a bit too lean at the moment.

 

edit:Then i chanced over another article saying that typically bike manufacturers will set pumps, carbs & jettings for a default 1:32 mix. (if im understanding correctly)

 

Yeah, when i saw your ratio, i suspected it was the cause already. To be honest, we're all not racers as much we we would hate/love to admit. 1:50 ratio is just nice. If ever go track, then just do 1:40 will do. There's no need to go until extreme of 1:30 or 1:80, doesn't make sense anymore. Once you get the setting that you like, then stick to it. Hahaha...

 

On another note, my cbr batt like not charging properly, ytd after dropping friend off at his block, my temp was 103 degrees and fan was on, not enough voltage to start bike.... Think better go see my mech and hope it's battery problem and not coil or rectifier... if coil and rectifier, ho sei liao... jiak hong liao...

[FireGunz]

Hi Seniors, thank for value info. I think might bring to the mech to check it...

Right now even the can hear the 1 sound "E" (like skipping sound) feel like from the rear when in gear 1 or 2 at slow speed during to throttle...

 

By the way, which brand that you using for the brake pad @ front & rear?

 

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Edited August 15, 2015 by FireGunz

[jbdoggy]

Hi Seniors, thank for value info. I think might bring to the mech to check it...

Right now even the can hear the 1 sound "E" (like skipping sound) feel like from the rear when in gear 1 or 2 at slow speed during to throttle...

 

By the way, which brand that you using for the brake pad @ front & rear?

 

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Uncle Cheong replaced mine with stock Honda pads. I dunno what the material is. Diff brands have diff materials and shapes. But i read that ceramic pads are among the very best, but price also best lah! haha

 

As bro sporeknight mentioned, pads dont wear out evenly. I checked my pads before & they were thin but not so jialat thin so i thot still ok for time being. Then 1 day suey suey my front forks & exhaust manifold both started leaking oil. Send back to planet to repair & was discovered my brake pads quite badly worn out in the ctr, so uncle replaced them immediately w/o asking me. So turns out my leaks were a blessing in disguise!!

 

So even the visual inspection & the wear marker on the pad may not be a reliable check for my case. But at least i know roughly how thin my pads were from the side view before i sent to Planet. Nxt time i see roughly that thinness, i go change liao. It was also abt that time when i felt the braking tak shiok even tho i already had new brake pump. Thats why in my prev post i mentioned the feel also maybe an indicator.

Edited August 15, 2015 by jbdoggy

[jbdoggy]

Yeah, when i saw your ratio, i suspected it was the cause already. To be honest, we're all not racers as much we we would hate/love to admit. 1:50 ratio is just nice. If ever go track, then just do 1:40 will do. There's no need to go until extreme of 1:30 or 1:80, doesn't make sense anymore. Once you get the setting that you like, then stick to it. Hahaha...

 

On another note, my cbr batt like not charging properly, ytd after dropping friend off at his block, my temp was 103 degrees and fan was on, not enough voltage to start bike.... Think better go see my mech and hope it's battery problem and not coil or rectifier... if coil and rectifier, ho sei liao... jiak hong liao...

 

Thanks bro. Will do!

[TheFamilyBoy]

 

There are 2 pdf downloads you can find:

 

1) owner's manual :http://mototh.com/files/honda/NSR150SP/Honda-NSR150SP-Owner-Manual-English.pdf

 

2)Service manual: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0jxdB5PbvS2NzNjMzYxYzQtMjgxZC00YWMzLWJlZjAtNWNjYmY4YzhjMTE5/view?ddrp=1&hl=en

 

Wow, thank you for that. I'm a new rider/owner of a not-so-new bike, so this will definitely help me.

 

Also, I'm new to the forums. If there is like any guides/information for those new to Bike Ownership/Community, pls lemme noe.

Thank you!!

[Heathx]

Thanks bro. Will do!

 

No problem, ride safe and enjoy riding the SP, very shiok bike to ride for 2B!

 

Hi Seniors, thank for value info. I think might bring to the mech to check it...

Right now even the can hear the 1 sound "E" (like skipping sound) feel like from the rear when in gear 1 or 2 at slow speed during to throttle...

 

By the way, which brand that you using for the brake pad @ front & rear?

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

My style of braking is 2-finger and i tend to use front brake 80% of the time, so i use EBC sintered for front. I also made sure to get a better brake pump kit and steelbraided hose. For rear brake, i wasn't so concerned so just use some generic brake pad.

 

EBC is quite expensive, but it's good. Even if it's raining, the grip comes instantly. The sintered versions are even more beast. Even if the brake disc kena oil, the sintered still grip with 80% effectiveness.

[Heathx]

Wow, thank you for that. I'm a new rider/owner of a not-so-new bike, so this will definitely help me.

 

Also, I'm new to the forums. If there is like any guides/information for those new to Bike Ownership/Community, pls lemme noe.

Thank you!!

 

Welcome to the riding community, and if you have any questions, just ask, many here are willing to help.

[FireGunz]

My style of braking is 2-finger and i tend to use front brake 80% of the time, so i use EBC sintered for front. I also made sure to get a better brake pump kit and steelbraided hose. For rear brake, i wasn't so concerned so just use some generic brake pad.

 

EBC is quite expensive, but it's good. Even if it's raining, the grip comes instantly. The sintered versions are even more beast. Even if the brake disc kena oil, the sintered still grip with 80% effectiveness.

 

Hi bro, you mean EBC (for Front) for SP is "FA 197" (with or without the HH) as the price difference around $20...

 

I'm also just abit curious about the brake pump kit that what is the different between normal & the good (example RCS) how does it really work...

 

By the way, the steelbraided hose the price how much does it cost?

 

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[FireGunz]

Wow, thank you for that. I'm a new rider/owner of a not-so-new bike, so this will definitely help me.

 

Also, I'm new to the forums. If there is like any guides/information for those new to Bike Ownership/Community, pls lemme noe.

Thank you!!

Hi bro, welcome to our SP family...

 

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[FireGunz]

Hi Seniors, does any of you using the phone holder that suitable for SP to mount it? The market those claim type on the handler bar & it seem not suitable for SP to mount it.

 

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[wait4me]

i dun think sp handle bar have space for it. u might wan to consider drilling it into the speedo jus above your windishield

[Heathx]

Hi bro, you mean EBC (for Front) for SP is "FA 197" (with or without the HH) as the price difference around $20...

 

I'm also just abit curious about the brake pump kit that what is the different between normal & the good (example RCS) how does it really work...

 

By the way, the steelbraided hose the price how much does it cost?

 

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FA197 is the organic one, meaning not sintered. Basically sintered pads have additional metal filings inside the pad, so the grip on your disc is even more powerful cos increased friction. It's like u grip something with a piece of cardboard and you grip with a piece of sandpaper difference. FA197HH is the sintered version.

 

Brake pump cheap vs good most obvious difference is the angle which the lever engages the pump. Brembo pumps is 'direct' angle. SP stock pump is 'indirect'. Thus the potential strength of the pump is arguably weaker and definitely less consistent. That's about the main diff, other than obvious like longevity. Brake pump is not really that big difference as long as it is working properly, unless you ride fast and every bit of braking consistency is important to you, aka on the track. Biggest difference still comes from the pads and hose.

 

Steelbraided hose price depends on you want both front and rear or only front. I got Hel brand hose for front only, i think about $30-ish. There are other brands like Star and Venhill also. Star probably cheapest, but also good. Can get from Bikeworkz. Hel i think unique motor sells. But i got mine from someone else. Normal rubber hose will expand a bit under pressure, so the braking power will be weaker than compared to steelbraided hose.

 

As for handphone mount.... If die die want, is can find space one. My friend did before, but i can't remember how she did it. I prefer not to mount phone, distraction lah, hahaha...