Honda NSR150SP Riders

[sporeknight]

wow...5-8x??? What was actually the problem causing this? Mine usually fires up 1-2x only, w/o choke & everything swee. But funny thing is last 2 weeks I can still start in 1-2x but need tam pok choke a bit later for few secs, otherwise engine idling too low & eventually die. Dunno if haze has dirtied the carb or not? Or some vacuum leak somewhere, cos i will once in a while hv this problem if try to blip throttle while warming up, the engine will make croaking sound & if persist with that throttle level, engine will die. Sign of too much air. choke seems to cure this problem also tho. But this croaking problem improved a bit after i gv carb air screw quarter turn in.

 

But dont understand why from no need choke last time to need choke now.

Oh. Even if cold start also 1-2x Wo choke? Tats v gd. Anyway for my bike, regardless cold or hot start, 1-5days Wo riding, I still ND my choke to start it n aft start it, swee swee no horse run. Won't stall even if ND to blip throttle abit. Mayb old bike n seldom use, ND to kick more. But ok la, use to it Liao. Most impt no engine n electrical prob, I m v happy wif it. My top speed also abt 110km -120. Nv bother to svc my power valve. Can move ok la.

 

Anyway my 2T usage is 1:75. I jus cal it, 1500km per 1 bot 2T. FC abt 20km/litre.

[jbdoggy]

Oh. Even if cold start also 1-2x Wo choke? Tats v gd. Anyway for my bike, regardless cold or hot start, 1-5days Wo riding, I still ND my choke to start it n aft start it, swee swee no horse run. Won't stall even if ND to blip throttle abit. Mayb old bike n seldom use, ND to kick more. But ok la, use to it Liao. Most impt no engine n electrical prob, I m v happy wif it. My top speed also abt 110km -120. Nv bother to svc my power valve. Can move ok la.

 

Anyway my 2T usage is 1:75. I jus cal it, 1500km per 1 bot 2T. FC abt 20km/litre.

 

Ya. Before it was v good. But now need tam pok choke in the mornings. If dont ride for a day have to kick maybe 3-5 times with choke to start. Previously dont hv this problem. But Nowadays i take bike out for a ride even if its 2-3km, just so that it gets some exercise. No exercise a bit problematiclah the next day.

 

my FC abt 23-25km/l. One time i managed abt 215km just before reserve - but mostly free roads & expressway riding that time.

[poorboii]

Sorry if this is a stupid question.

 

I just discovered at lo beam, bike is 2 eyed. But at Hi beam it is 1 eyed. Is it like that or also supposed to be 2 eyed?

 

I suspect my left bulb may need to change liao! Please confirm...

 

high and low is 2eyed.

 

Hi Seniors, as above that topic. I think that is not the leaking from the Fuel Tank / Tube. The reason is when I touch the very small "Black" oil patch on the floor (where is near around the bike stand) & it feel like a oil base which doesn't had the fuel / petrol smell as I suspect it should be the 2T oil & I think not from the 2T pump container.

 

So do you think that possible?

 

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sounds like eo to me.

Edited October 3, 2015 by poorboii

[FireGunz]

Hi Seniors, just wondering about regarding the 2T blow out the black oil usually spread around the rear number plate & the rear wheel rim. Right? But mine sometime it also spread around the right side fairing (near pillion seat) & the exhaust pipe too. Does it normal? 😯

 

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[FireGunz]

high and low is 2eyed.

 

 

 

sounds like eo to me.

Thank poorboii, for the advise. 😊

 

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[FireGunz]

Hi Seniors, as above that topic. I think that is not the leaking from the Fuel Tank / Tube. The reason is when I touch the very small "Black" oil patch on the floor (where is near around the bike stand) & it feel like a oil base which doesn't had the fuel / petrol smell as I suspect it should be the 2T oil & I think not from the 2T pump container.

 

So do you think that possible?

 

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Hi Seniors, thank for the all advise... finally the leaking problem had solved. That was the 2T pump reservoir cause it which need to replace the reaervoir + sensor + rubber connector + host...

 

The price of replacement it seem abit high almost cost $1××

 

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[jbdoggy]

Hi Seniors, just wondering about regarding the 2T blow out the black oil usually spread around the rear number plate & the rear wheel rim. Right? But mine sometime it also spread around the right side fairing (near pillion seat) & the exhaust pipe too. Does it normal? ������

 

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Its possible. I hung a plastic bag of stuff to the left side of the pillion seat & that plastic also got stained badly. Depends where the wind blows. How much or how little the stains are depends on how rich your 2t dosage is.

 

Hi Seniors, thank for the all advise... finally the leaking problem had solved. That was the 2T pump reservoir cause it which need to replace the reaervoir + sensor + rubber connector + host...

 

The price of replacement it seem abit high almost cost $1××

 

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Good to hear problem all solved.

 

Sp is an old bike, so bo pian when some parts start to break down. Worse is all those old parts start breaking down 1 by 1 continously. Lots of $$ & time spent to change & replace. But once all those old parts get replaced, together with a nice overhauled engine, you effectively have an almost 'new' bike. Sp is a very shiok bike to ride when its trouble free.

Edited October 3, 2015 by jbdoggy

[FireGunz]

Its possible. I hung a plastic bag of stuff to the left side of the pillion seat & that plastic also got stained badly. Depends where the wind blows. How much or how little the stains are depends on how rich your 2t dosage is.

 

Hmmm.... I see...

 

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[FireGunz]

Good to hear problem all solved.

 

Sp is an old bike, so bo pian when some parts start to break down. Worse is all those old parts start breaking down 1 by 1 continously. Lots of $$ & time spent to change & replace. But once all those old parts get replaced, together with a nice overhauled engine, you effectively have an almost 'new' bike. Sp is a very shiok bike to ride when its trouble free.

 

I agree with that. Bro.

 

Recently, i got another new problem that sometime it happen that when I was in gear 6 & the RPM around 7.5K (during at express way) Suddenly the RPM drop around 5K & below which can feel the bike like pull back (no power of speed) so I shift down to gear 4 to pick up again to 6K rpm follow by shift up again to gear 5 & maintain around 6 - 7K rpm & the speed it seem fine.

 

It that the piston problem? Can it be able to ride it again? By the way, just check around how much does it cost the original rider footrests stock for both side (New Set)? It seen quite expensive as the range around $290.

 

 

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Edited October 3, 2015 by FireGunz

[sporeknight]

Hi Seniors, thank for the all advise... finally the leaking problem had solved. That was the 2T pump reservoir cause it which need to replace the reaervoir + sensor + rubber connector + host...

 

The price of replacement it seem abit high almost cost $1××

 

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Yr mechanic chg the whole unit, it seems. But from theoretical pt of view, if yr reservoir itself leak at the plastic part, then chg the white container lo; if leak at hose (puncture), chg the hose; if leak at the end part of yr hose, jus tighten the metal C-clip. Y chg all? Esp sensors. No ND wat. I don get it.

[sporeknight]

I agree with that. Bro.

 

Recently, i got another new problem that sometime it happen that when I was in gear 6 & the RPM around 7.5K (during at express way) Suddenly the RPM drop around 5K & below which can feel the bike like pull back (no power of speed) so I shift down to gear 4 to pick up again to 6K rpm follow by shift up again to gear 5 & maintain around 6 - 7K rpm & the speed it seem fine.

 

It that the piston problem? Can it be able to ride it again? By the way, just check around how much does it cost the original rider footrests stock for both side (New Set)? It seen quite expensive as the range around $290.

 

 

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Sudden drop from 7.5rpm to 5k is v dangerous. If a vehicle is v close behind, u may cause an accident. I had such similar incidents b4, suddden drop of speed. But lucky no vehicle behind. I forgot wat I did. But def NT yr piston or clutch plates. If REM correctly, either batt/rectifier, spark plug.

 

1 set of orig footrests $290??? Too x Liao la. Tat 2 metal parts + rubber costs 290$? Wow.

[FireGunz]

Yr mechanic chg the whole unit, it seems. But from theoretical pt of view, if yr reservoir itself leak at the plastic part, then chg the white container lo; if leak at hose (puncture), chg the hose; if leak at the end part of yr hose, jus tighten the metal C-clip. Y chg all? Esp sensors. No ND wat. I don get it.

Thank bro for advise. I agree with you but the reason those leaking is not very obvious (it like hair leak & take time to observe) it like 2T oily all over around the container even near or at those connect part as for troubleshoot either replace one by one to find out which become too troublesome also the item per charge & labour cost not worth it. So mechanic advise replace all item to solve the problem in once.

 

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[Heathx]

Sudden drop from 7.5rpm to 5k is v dangerous. If a vehicle is v close behind, u may cause an accident. I had such similar incidents b4, suddden drop of speed. But lucky no vehicle behind. I forgot wat I did. But def NT yr piston or clutch plates. If REM correctly, either batt/rectifier, spark plug.

 

1 set of orig footrests $290??? Too x Liao la. Tat 2 metal parts + rubber costs 290$? Wow.

 

While riding, almost impossible to be batt problem. I ever kena before, but is cos fuel hit reserve so i just turn the fuel tap to reserve can liao, then go find petrol kiosk. The other time i kena is water drip into my fuel tank when i pumped petrol while my bike super wet from heavy rain and some water dripped into tank. The other possible reason is actually piston. It's not a full jam, but bad enough to actually cause enough friction so engine suffers loss of power. Should check with your mech. Might be electrical issue also. Rectifier is possible, wiring also... Spark plug might be fouled...

[sporeknight]

Thank bro for advise. I agree with you but the reason those leaking is not very obvious (it like hair leak & take time to observe) it like 2T oily all over around the container even near or at those connect part as for troubleshoot either replace one by one to find out which become too troublesome also the item per charge & labour cost not worth it. So mechanic advise replace all item to solve the problem in once.

 

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Hmm. Quite true tat it is v diff to troubleshoot the source of leak esp if leak appears aft a few hrs. But hav to patient n every few hrs chk. Def can trace the source of leak. If wan save $ hav to find it yrself else mechanic pt of view is "chg everything" lo. He also don hav the time to trace for u.

 

Hmm. U mention leaks until cover whole container bot n connectn part? Most likely is yr 2T reservoir plastic container gt fine crack.

[spidey77]

Parked overnight at my usual spot at my hsr carpark.Pillion handle got stolen plus left mirror folded in.

 

Surrounding bikes didint look to be disturbed.full stock bike also tio:/. Just grateful they didn't sabotage my brakes and tires or try to joyride.

 

Any advice guys?shld I get a cover?make a report?

Edited October 5, 2015 by spidey77

[Heathx]

Parked overnight at my usual spot at my hsr carpark.Pillion handle got stolen plus left mirror folded in.

 

Surrounding bikes didint look to be disturbed.full stock bike also tio:/. Just grateful they didn't sabotage my brakes and tires or try to joyride.

 

Any advice guys?shld I get a cover?make a report?

 

Sibeh suey... Probably the person who karjiao your bike also ride SP and wanted the pillion handle bar... If is normal bike thief, the other bikes would have been touched too...

 

Can consider putting bike alarm.

[FireGunz]

While riding, almost impossible to be batt problem. I ever kena before, but is cos fuel hit reserve so i just turn the fuel tap to reserve can liao, then go find petrol kiosk. The other time i kena is water drip into my fuel tank when i pumped petrol while my bike super wet from heavy rain and some water dripped into tank. The other possible reason is actually piston. It's not a full jam, but bad enough to actually cause enough friction so engine suffers loss of power. Should check with your mech. Might be electrical issue also. Rectifier is possible, wiring also... Spark plug might be fouled...

 

 

Thank bro Heathx, for the suggestion. For the battery & rain water parts seem not high chance... Reason battery should be new (i think) follow by during the occur happen was not raining day. I think the piston chance is abit high but I'm still confuse with as reason when I try on gear 5 can hit 7.5K rpm...

 

For rectifier past... I'm not sure about that, for spark part it seem haven't change until now after my 1st basic service just change the E.O only at around 3500km. As right now seem it hit 6100km planning to go for "Top Servicing"... any advice.

 

 

Hmm. Quite true tat it is v diff to troubleshoot the source of leak esp if leak appears aft a few hrs. But hav to patient n every few hrs chk. Def can trace the source of leak. If wan save $ hav to find it yrself else mechanic pt of view is "chg everything" lo. He also don hav the time to trace for u.

 

Hmm. U mention leaks until cover whole container bot n connectn part? Most likely is yr 2T reservoir plastic container gt fine crack.

 

I'm agree with you too, bro sporeknight. It could be that cause it...

 

Oh god, so many parts down (one by one) so much money need be to spend for repair...

 

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[Heathx]

Thank bro Heathx, for the suggestion. For the battery & rain water parts seem not high chance... Reason battery should be new (i think) follow by during the occur happen was not raining day. I think the piston chance is abit high but I'm still confuse with as reason when I try on gear 5 can hit 7.5K rpm...

 

For rectifier past... I'm not sure about that, for spark part it seem haven't change until now after my 1st basic service just change the E.O only at around 3500km. As right now seem it hit 6100km planning to go for "Top Servicing"... any advice.

 

Hmmm... Another possible reason for power loss is your exhaust or endcan choked up with 'carbon' or residue... but usually is a gradual thing, won't suddenly lose power... Sudden loss will mean something electrical or fuel supply, or your engine moving parts got some jam... Personally, i go to Ah Heng at amk autopoint, cos he opens from 7pm to late night, so just nice i after work can go down lor.

[sporeknight]

Thank bro Heathx, for the suggestion. For the battery & rain water parts seem not high chance... Reason battery should be new (i think) follow by during the occur happen was not raining day. I think the piston chance is abit high but I'm still confuse with as reason when I try on gear 5 can hit 7.5K rpm...

 

For rectifier past... I'm not sure about that, for spark part it seem haven't change until now after my 1st basic service just change the E.O only at around 3500km. As right now seem it hit 6100km planning to go for "Top Servicing"... any advice.

 

 

 

 

I'm agree with you too, bro sporeknight. It could be that cause it...

 

Oh god, so many parts down (one by one) so much money need be to spend for repair...

 

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It's life la bro. Take ez. I once replace 3 batt in the end to deduce tat rectifier is the root cause of prob. I hav also reroute my IU unit so as NT to eat too much batt. I hav jus chg my 2 tyres n brake pads a few mths ago due to wear n tear. Owning a vehicle ND to take care n pay for maint cost. NT jus pump petrol n pay misc fees ie parking, ERP etc.

 

If poss try to chk yr rectifier. NT yr spark plug, seems to me still v new.

[FireGunz]

It's life la bro. Take ez. I once replace 3 batt in the end to deduce tat rectifier is the root cause of prob. I hav also reroute my IU unit so as NT to eat too much batt. I hav jus chg my 2 tyres n brake pads a few mths ago due to wear n tear. Owning a vehicle ND to take care n pay for maint cost. NT jus pump petrol n pay misc fees ie parking, ERP etc.

 

If poss try to chk yr rectifier. NT yr spark plug, seems to me still v new.

 

I do agree with you. Bro, about maintenance cost & also about taking care of the daring bike...

 

By the way, how do I check it the rectifier whether is got any faulty?

 

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Edited October 6, 2015 by FireGunz

[sporeknight]

I do agree with you. Bro, about maintenance cost & also about taking care of the daring bike...

 

By the way, how do I check it the rectifier whether is got any faulty?

 

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U ND a multimeter.

When yr bike hav NT started yet, measure yr Batt volt : Arnd 12-12.5v. Aft u start it, blip yr throttle, it shld b abt 13.5-14+. Tis means yr Batt is charged by rectifier.

[FireGunz]

U ND a multimeter.

When yr bike hav NT started yet, measure yr Batt volt : Arnd 12-12.5v. Aft u start it, blip yr throttle, it shld b abt 13.5-14+. Tis means yr Batt is charged by rectifier.

 

Hi bro, thank for sharing the info. So as above that you had mention is good (normal) for the batt or recifier?

 

By the way, what if the occur like below:

 

1. When the bike have not started yet, if battery volt : is below 12v (mean the battery or rectifier problem).

 

2. If the bike after started & blip throttle, if the battery volt : below 13.5v (mean the battery or rectifier problem).

 

Sorry, I'm a slow learner...

 

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[sporeknight]

Hi bro, thank for sharing the info. So as above that you had mention is good (normal) for the batt or recifier?

 

By the way, what if the occur like below:

 

1. When the bike have not started yet, if battery volt : is below 12v (mean the battery or rectifier problem).

 

2. If the bike after started & blip throttle, if the battery volt : below 13.5v (mean the battery or rectifier problem).

 

Sorry, I'm a slow learner...

 

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Ok bro, v gd questn. 1st of all, rectifier chg batt. So yr Batt can be used. If yr rectifier start to fail, Hw new yr Batt will bcom unusable within wks. For me, I learn tis valuable lesson wif 3 batt! Cos I Nev think of rectifier s I seldom ride. I tot batt flat cos I seldom ride= seldom charge= aft sometime unusable.

 

For scenario 1, u hav to troubleshoot if rectifier or batt fault. If rectifier ok, prob is wif yr Batt. Yr batt is gone case Liao.

 

For scenario 2, it will hav to b yr rectifier le.

 

If prob is wif rectifier, quickly replace 1 and c if yr Batt still rechargeable. Look at yr neutral light if its v bright green the nxt day after riding. Also try to reroute yr IU supply directly to the fuse instead to the batt. Long term will conserve yr Batt life esp if u seldom ride.

 

Tis is the probs I hav gone thru. Mayb yrs is similar or diff case. Magnetic coil also play a part. I only encounter rectifier n Batt probs.

[Heathx]

Actually.........

 

Battery is to store charge. Magnet coil is to charge your battery. Rectifier is to control the voltage so your magnet coil don't overcharge your battery.

 

If you blip throttle, voltage goes up, means magnet coil is fine. Don't go up means magnet coil spoil.

 

If you blip throttle, and you voltage exceeds 15V, means rectifier spoil.

 

If rectifier and magnet coil both ok, but battery is below 11V consistently despite riding everyday, means battery spoil.

[FireGunz]

Actually.........

 

Battery is to store charge. Magnet coil is to charge your battery. Rectifier is to control the voltage so your magnet coil don't overcharge your battery.

 

If you blip throttle, voltage goes up, means magnet coil is fine. Don't go up means magnet coil spoil.

 

If you blip throttle, and you voltage exceeds 15V, means rectifier spoil.

 

If rectifier and magnet coil both ok, but battery is below 11V consistently despite riding everyday, means battery spoil.

 

Hi bro, thank for the info & the explanation is short & clear.

 

Ok bro, v gd questn. 1st of all, rectifier chg batt. So yr Batt can be used. If yr rectifier start to fail, Hw new yr Batt will bcom unusable within wks. For me, I learn tis valuable lesson wif 3 batt! Cos I Nev think of rectifier s I seldom ride. I tot batt flat cos I seldom ride= seldom charge= aft sometime unusable.

 

For scenario 1, u hav to troubleshoot if rectifier or batt fault. If rectifier ok, prob is wif yr Batt. Yr batt is gone case Liao.

 

For scenario 2, it will hav to b yr rectifier le.

 

If prob is wif rectifier, quickly replace 1 and c if yr Batt still rechargeable. Look at yr neutral light if its v bright green the nxt day after riding. Also try to reroute yr IU supply directly to the fuse instead to the batt. Long term will conserve yr Batt life esp if u seldom ride.

 

Tis is the probs I hav gone thru. Mayb yrs is similar or diff case. Magnetic coil also play a part. I only encounter rectifier n Batt probs.

 

Hi Seniors, hehehe... Paiseh.

May I know where is the retifier located at?

 

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