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Posted
Would like you check with you guys on the FZ1 (gen 2).

 

My bike takes about 1-2 sec to start in the morning. Starts on 1 crank even after I went overseas for few weeks. Bike idles at ~900rpm (I know it a little low but its ok). As far as I can tell, the auto-choke is not working as the idling stays at that rpm even after warm up. Stock exhaust and airfilter like that. Change to K&N with free flow muffler, still the same.

 

Went to Cameron the other time and after that engine is a bit noisier but bike start well within 1 sec. A month or 2 later, now it's back to slow start. I change ~4k rpm normally when riding locally.

 

Other than the lack of auto-choke, is this slow starting normal?

 

Thx

 

hey DrRipper, i agree with Yatz86, if you need 1-2 sec to crank start your engine, it may show signs of deterioration already...

just to share, a healthy battery will usually take 0.25-1 sec to crank start...

 

auto-choke for fz1 gen2 usually starts from "low" temp till 63°C +/- 2°C...

for fz6, if i didn't remember wrongly, it should be between 55°C to 60°C...

 

your idling looks fine... don't worry...

exhaust or air filter does not relates to battery or cranking...

 

on your trip to Cameron, your crank start is better, most probably is because you had fully charge up your battery during this long ride journey...

but after u r back to city riding or short distance riding within city, your bike does not get to actually fully activate the charging mechanism because re-charging of battery needs a certain distance of riding or something, hence it's sort of like back to slow start...

 

so moral of the story? ride more, ride longer, don't worry! :angel:

Join us at our Singapore Fazer Club Facebook Group! Only for Fazerians!

:)

http://www.facebook.com/groups/SGFazerClub

FB/SBF PM me for member access..

 

http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/294858_10151604125922840_1202025127_n.jpg

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Posted

just like to check.... how do u recondition the battery??

u need to be young and reckless to become old and wise..... if u survive :angel:

 

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b169/gwzc_mk2/IMG_4576-1.jpg

Posted

I didn't think such minor engine mods will affect it but just want to explain the situation as complete as possible. Bike cranks well even after leaving it for so long that's why I didn't suspect the battery. Thought clearing the carbon after the trip makes the engine easier to start :) What you said about the full charge makes sense, and since my idling is low (somewhere in this thread it's mentioned that the charging is not good with low idling), that scenario is more likely.

 

Looks like time to spend money on wear and tear before more goodies. And crank up the idling ;)

 

As stated, I believe my auto-chock is not functioning. Think I read here too that it's some expensive small part to replace, not quite worth it. Anyway, depend on which school you're in, using chock may not be such a good thing.

 

Thank all for the replies.

Posted
lazy to type everything out again... here's the link to your request... :p

 

haha, 2nd time kena make me really gonna get this stuff...:faint:

 

well there goes the LWE..lousy weekend...:D

 

rain rain rain:sian:

YAMAHA FZ1S ABS 2K12

Posted

Hi all... I'm thinking of servicing my brakes, including the following stuff:

 

1. Replace brake pads

2. Replace brake discs, as they are showing signs on uneven wear (with another set of slightly-used OEM discs I got from Nix)

3. Replace original brake hoses with steel braided items

4. Clean/service/lubricate other parts of braking system to whatever extent possible

 

I'm looking for suggestions/recommendations for:

 

1. Brake pads: I've been told OEM pads are the best match for OEM discs, but I guess they're slightly pricey. Any idea where I can get them cheap? The usual suspects - AutoMachinery, AutoCycle, etc...? But other (cheaper) brands would also be welcome.

 

2. Good brands for the steel braided brake hoses. I've only heard of HEL, not sure what else is good and affordable

 

3. A good workshop that will do a thorough job without screwing anything up or ripping me off too badly (I'm used to being ripped off a little bit, but that's to to expected when you don't speak the language). It would be especially good if they can do a thorough job on #4 above (clean/service/lubricate the internals), instead of just changing the parts. Oh, and hopefully they won't mind if I buy the pads and bring them with me...?

 

Any kind of cost estimate on the above would be helpful too.

 

I'd have loved to do all of the above myself, but I don't think brakes are a good place to start my DIY experiments o_O

 

Please help out with suggestions & recommendations! :)

If everything seems under control, you're simply not going fast enough. - Mario Andretti

Posted
Hi all... I'm thinking of servicing my brakes, including the following stuff:

 

1. Replace brake pads

2. Replace brake discs, as they are showing signs on uneven wear (with another set of slightly-used OEM discs I got from Nix)

3. Replace original brake hoses with steel braided items

4. Clean/service/lubricate other parts of braking system to whatever extent possible

 

I'm looking for suggestions/recommendations for:

 

1. Brake pads: I've been told OEM pads are the best match for OEM discs, but I guess they're slightly pricey. Any idea where I can get them cheap? The usual suspects - AutoMachinery, AutoCycle, etc...? But other (cheaper) brands would also be welcome.

 

2. Good brands for the steel braided brake hoses. I've only heard of HEL, not sure what else is good and affordable

 

3. A good workshop that will do a thorough job without screwing anything up or ripping me off too badly (I'm used to being ripped off a little bit, but that's to to expected when you don't speak the language). It would be especially good if they can do a thorough job on #4 above (clean/service/lubricate the internals), instead of just changing the parts. Oh, and hopefully they won't mind if I buy the pads and bring them with me...?

 

Any kind of cost estimate on the above would be helpful too.

 

I'd have loved to do all of the above myself, but I don't think brakes are a good place to start my DIY experiments o_O

 

Please help out with suggestions & recommendations! :)

 

1. i just learnt dat there are hard pads and soft pads. the hard pads would "eat" into ur rotors after certain mileage. the soft pad, will wear out faster but reduces the wear on the rotors. was told by a mech the brands for soft pad would be gold fren and braking. not sure how true. u should be looking at $25-$65 per pair of brake pads

 

2. HEL, galfer, goodridge, venhill + tons of other brands out there. iirc, HEL is the most common here as the price is very competitive

 

3. if u are looking at taking out ur brake calipers, then u are looking for caliper servicing bah. usually costs ard $40-$80 iirc. includes taking out the whole caliper assembly, taking it apart to clean and lub.

 

bikeworks is a good place to go for servicing. hope this helps :D

u need to be young and reckless to become old and wise..... if u survive :angel:

 

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b169/gwzc_mk2/IMG_4576-1.jpg

Posted

yeah true...dun mind to spend a lil more to get the soft brake pads...

 

even though it wears a lil faster...the braking is much better and it will not "eat up" ur rotor...

 

**Just my two cents**

Posted
Hi all... I'm thinking of servicing my brakes, including the following stuff:

 

1. Replace brake pads

2. Replace brake discs, as they are showing signs on uneven wear (with another set of slightly-used OEM discs I got from Nix)

3. Replace original brake hoses with steel braided items

4. Clean/service/lubricate other parts of braking system to whatever extent possible

 

I'm looking for suggestions/recommendations for:

 

1. Brake pads: I've been told OEM pads are the best match for OEM discs, but I guess they're slightly pricey. Any idea where I can get them cheap? The usual suspects - AutoMachinery, AutoCycle, etc...? But other (cheaper) brands would also be welcome.

 

2. Good brands for the steel braided brake hoses. I've only heard of HEL, not sure what else is good and affordable

 

3. A good workshop that will do a thorough job without screwing anything up or ripping me off too badly (I'm used to being ripped off a little bit, but that's to to expected when you don't speak the language). It would be especially good if they can do a thorough job on #4 above (clean/service/lubricate the internals), instead of just changing the parts. Oh, and hopefully they won't mind if I buy the pads and bring them with me...?

 

Any kind of cost estimate on the above would be helpful too.

 

I'd have loved to do all of the above myself, but I don't think brakes are a good place to start my DIY experiments o_O

 

Please help out with suggestions & recommendations! :)

 

Most OEM bikes come with sintered brake pads front and rear. They have very good performance in dry and wet. Others brake pads in the market are organic or kelvar pads which is less punishing to the brake disc but no match for sintered brake pads My advice is dun save on brakes and tyres. EBC double HH sintered brake pads is a good choice and cost about $60/- at Bikeworkz. OEM brake pads is about $60-$80 per set

If u are on a budget, then u can try SBS sintered brake pads available from Motoworld. One set is about $36/- if i am remember correctly.

 

HEL Brakeline are very affordable now. Full set/ 3 brake lines is about $150 to $200.

 

I serviced all my brakes last month at Bikeworkz. Bike only 7 months old but i was surprise to see how dirty is my brakes pistons. Bought a can of Motorex brake cleaner for $22 and serviced my 3 brakes for $15/-. total damage is $37/-.

 

Overall, very happy with the services provided by Ah Beng.

Posted

Hi guy, has enyone tried BT-016 120/70 & 190/50 on their FZ1? If so,how's e grip in e dry/wet? Wear? Profile? Cheers

http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/xx217/dolf_sg/393916_10150493355642218_551227217_8959469_1615068476_n-Copy-1.jpg
Posted
Hi guy, has enyone tried BT-016 120/70 & 190/50 on their FZ1? If so,how's e grip in e dry/wet? Wear? Profile? Cheers

 

Not on my Fazer but I like it very much. Didn't ride much on wet road so can't atest to it. If I remember correctly, they are OEM on Gizzer.

Posted
Hi guy, has enyone tried BT-016 120/70 & 190/50 on their FZ1? If so,how's e grip in e dry/wet? Wear? Profile? Cheers

 

used its predecessor the 014 on my old R1. superb grip on both dry and dry weather.

had superb reviews from my frens who used it. most probably gonna change to the 016 once my stock tyres wears out :D

u need to be young and reckless to become old and wise..... if u survive :angel:

 

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b169/gwzc_mk2/IMG_4576-1.jpg

Posted
Not on my Fazer but I like it very much. Didn't ride much on wet road so can't atest to it. If I remember correctly, they are OEM on Gizzer.

 

Thanks for the feedback bro:)

http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/xx217/dolf_sg/393916_10150493355642218_551227217_8959469_1615068476_n-Copy-1.jpg
Posted
used its predecessor the 014 on my old R1. superb grip on both dry and dry weather.

had superb reviews from my frens who used it. most probably gonna change to the 016 once my stock tyres wears out :D

 

Thanks again for the feedback bro:).

http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/xx217/dolf_sg/393916_10150493355642218_551227217_8959469_1615068476_n-Copy-1.jpg
Posted

Hi all... (relatively) new fz6 rider here... Wanna ask the seniors here:

1. I'm getting heavy vibration at between 6k-8k rpm. I'm guessing this is normal, so I'm just checking here.

2. I read few pages back about ciggy lighter mod. I'm interested in this project. Anyone can share tips? Parts to get, safety measures, etc.

3. I'm actually researching for iPhone holder with power mod. But most resources I got rely on US product. Which cost a lot in shipment..

4. What is LKS? :p

There is no knowledge that is not power :bow:

Posted
Hi all... (relatively) new fz6 rider here... Wanna ask the seniors here:

1. I'm getting heavy vibration at between 6k-8k rpm. I'm guessing this is normal, so I'm just checking here.

2. I read few pages back about ciggy lighter mod. I'm interested in this project. Anyone can share tips? Parts to get, safety measures, etc.

3. I'm actually researching for iPhone holder with power mod. But most resources I got rely on US product. Which cost a lot in shipment..

4. What is LKS? :p

 

Answers

1) Firstly maybe , you can sync your throttle bodies first and your bike will run better.change to a heavy handlebar balancers and u will feel less vibrations.

2) Ciggy lighter mod: $12 from Lim Batt at Bedok ind.

4) No idea.

3) LKS is drink kopi/talk cock session at Lavender Food Court on every Tuesday night from 2030hrs. All bikers are welcome and u can get all the info on Fazers but first round of drinks on u lah!!! Haha

Posted
Answers

1) Firstly maybe , you can sync your throttle bodies first and your bike will run better.change to a heavy handlebar balancers and u will feel less vibrations.

2) Ciggy lighter mod: $12 from Lim Batt at Bedok ind.

4) No idea.

3) LKS is drink kopi/talk cock session at Lavender Food Court on every Tuesday night from 2030hrs. All bikers are welcome and u can get all the info on Fazers but first round of drinks on u lah!!! Haha

 

1. I did change to heavier balancer, and it did help reduce vibration in all RPM, but the vibration between 6000-8000 range is so heavy I can still feel it anyway. Syncing throttle bodies huh? googled it up n it seems I'm going to need that manometer thingy.. I'll ask my mech on my next service

2. Thanks

3. No prob, ciggy lighter enuf for now

4. Haha sure can. I kinda guessed KS is kopi session, but nv thought L stands for Lavender

There is no knowledge that is not power :bow:

Posted
Answers

1) Firstly maybe , you can sync your throttle bodies first and your bike will run better.change to a heavy handlebar balancers and u will feel less vibrations.

2) Ciggy lighter mod: $12 from Lim Batt at Bedok ind.

4) No idea.

3) LKS is drink kopi/talk cock session at Lavender Food Court on every Tuesday night from 2030hrs. All bikers are welcome and u can get all the info on Fazers but first round of drinks on u lah!!! Haha

 

1. I did change to heavier balancer, and it did help reduce vibration in all RPM, but the vibration between 6000-8000 range is so heavy I can still feel it anyway. Syncing throttle bodies huh? googled it up n it seems I'm going to need that manometer thingy.. I'll ask my mech on my next service

2. Thanks

3. No prob, ciggy lighter enuf for now

4. Haha sure can. I kinda guessed KS is kopi session, but nv thought L stands for Lavender

There is no knowledge that is not power :bow:

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