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Posted (edited)

Having some problems with my beloved RW fi 2011 :p

 

It won't spark?

 

What I have done so far is change the plug.

 

HT Lead, cap, coil.

 

Made sure nor breaks in wires and they make good connection.

 

Battery is fully charged.

 

I was going to change the CDI but can't for the life of me find it I can only assume it is integrated into the ECU?

 

Please help I just want to ride again. :(

 

Edit - I also have an engine management light flashing will disconnecting theECU and reconnecting give me that all important dam spark?

Edited by Night_Rider91
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Posted (edited)

there is no ecu for the first gen rw.

cdi is under the passenger seat, remove the rider seat > slide open the back cover > use 10mm spanner remove the bolt tat secure the passenger seat > remove the seat n u can see signal blinker, cdi n regulator.

 

best let cka-hq mech troubleshoot for u if u r in sillypore.

they have diagnostic device tat can pin-point efi faults.

rwR EFI uses ecu (not cdi), u can find ecu under the passenger seat.

it is pointless to change parts, the diagnostic device point out wat r the problems once it is hooked up.

 

(note: singapore daelim agent did not import rw efi version, there r none in sillypore. plenty of rwR sport version, these r watercool/efi engine, they r different design from the aircool engine but electronics maybe same).

 

this is only for carb model.

 

i just experienced water-in-carb after many yrs did not went to JB for petrol (water mix).

 

symptom: can start the engine n idle, engine will die-off when try to move off.

many riders tot by revving the engine can remove the water-in-carb but on the contrary coz petrol is lighter than water can easy slip-by at the edge, heavier water-droplet will stay at the bottom.

 

simple procedure to remove water at the bottom of the carb:

1) turn the fuel-cock (valve) off.

2) loosen the carb-drain screw (at the bottom of the carb).

3) let fuel drain completely.

4) turn fuel-cock (valve) to reserve (the tip pointing upwards).

5) let fuel drain for a while (about 50~100 ml).

6) turn the fuel-cock (valve) off, let the fuel drain off.

7) tighten the drain screw n turn the fuel-cock (valve) ON (normal with the tip pointing downward).

8) wait for a while (about a minute) to allow fuel to fill up the carb bowl.

9) done, start the bike n ride.

Edited by stsoh
Posted

Hi thanks for your reply my model is fuel injected naked version there isn't a CDI as far as I can see (see picture below.)

 

http://oi48.tinypic.com/30lzapu.jpg

 

Unfortunately I am in the UK these bikes are pretty rare here.

 

There is no CDI on the frame either I have had the rear cowl off which is why I think it must be integrated into the ECU.

 

Thoughts? It is booked into the garage I bought it from.. but he can't come get it until 4th of May. It is my only form of transport.

 

Bike is a year old done just short of 18500 miles.

Posted

at the bottom part of ur pic shows the ecu.

FI model use ECU.

Carb model use CDI.

u can check the wiring diagram in the owners manual on the few last pages.

clik below link n right clik the pdf icon of ur model n save as;

http://www.dmc.co.kr/english/service/index.php?part=download&path=download

 

u have to wait for ur part, unless u have friends in korea to fedex it.

here in sillypore, i dun think cka (daelim agent) is willing to ship any parts to europe.

:goodluck:

Posted

Hello!

I am quite interested in a RW, I see there are 3 gen of this from previous post, like to know more?

is the maintenance high? Any common problems?

2011 Skoda Octavia(RHD)

2012 Class FL + Komatsu/Nissan 3Tonne FL

2013 Class 2b + Adiva ADtre2, Toyota Sienna(RHD)

Posted

so what you mean is that the x5(naked) is first gen, which is heavier than the rwR?

roughly one maintenance how much?

2011 Skoda Octavia(RHD)

2012 Class FL + Komatsu/Nissan 3Tonne FL

2013 Class 2b + Adiva ADtre2, Toyota Sienna(RHD)

Posted

x5 is actually over-bored rw125.

rw 125cc engine is over-bored to 140.2cc (x5).

rw n x5 have all the same familiarities.

 

rwR engine n fuel management is different from rw.

rw is aircool/carb engine, lack balancing shaft, more vibs.

rwR is watercool/EFI engine, smoother ride (better km/l, if need speed, rev more).

 

rw is naked, rwR have fairings, so weights abit more.

both uses the same configurations, tat means same tires size, frame, etc.....

 

rw125/x5 maintenance is roughly the same as any mopeds (cubs).

except tat rw/x5/rwR uses bigger tires thus cost more.

 

rwR will cost more to maintain due to EFI, if any sensors is defective needs replacement.

example: O2 sensor, ECU, Mass-Air sensor, fuel pump, Throttle sensor, etc...

in addition, if u drop/skid it, fairing replacement r costly.

Posted

oh that explains, hmm..

I actually prefer the naked x5 but thought it was with the EFI.

stl in a dilemma.

went to CKA today, hmm they don't have much 2nd-hand bikes.

-the sale guy said x5 got 125cc too?

 

just realised forgot to ask new bike price S:

anyone know?

2011 Skoda Octavia(RHD)

2012 Class FL + Komatsu/Nissan 3Tonne FL

2013 Class 2b + Adiva ADtre2, Toyota Sienna(RHD)

Posted (edited)

rw is rare, still is.

basically, i dun think there r any new rw/x5 around.

2nd hand rw/x5 visit cka-hq, i believe they have it.

u can easily convert rw125 to x5 by over-bored (change bigger piston n re-bore cylinder).

 

if u going to buy new bike, consider the mle motard 200cc bike.

its made-in-china, i've posted pics earlier (clik pg b4 this).

cka support is good, even rw is rare still have great support.

 

search utube, popular in malaysia, not so in sillypore.

sillyporean r silly, always mental about cost/resell/save fuel (running lean is the worst thing sillypore riders did to their bikes).

 

buy new bike, enjoy riding it, learn how to maintain.

if i got money, dun mind change to this mle motard. i've to consider my age n well being too.

Edited by stsoh
Posted

hmm I saw one x5 mileage 0006 yesterday, unless went a full round already.

 

what you mean by running lean?

 

hmm what you riding now? I saw someone riding the MLE yesterday at CKA,

I shd say not bad but still prefer the naked bike more than motard, hmm not really sure..

haiz, I actually don't know if I can support a bike now S:

2011 Skoda Octavia(RHD)

2012 Class FL + Komatsu/Nissan 3Tonne FL

2013 Class 2b + Adiva ADtre2, Toyota Sienna(RHD)

Posted

owner/cka may have replaced meter.

 

lean means burnt less fuel.

many riders r stingy on fuel, they tuned their carb to meter lesser fuel.

cause more harm than they realised.

all stock bikes, out from factories r already in lean state.

best performance is air/fuel mixture ratio 14.7:1.

 

still riding rw, will extend coe due next yr.

Posted

means so is the factory lean state 14.7:1?

how to tell if the rw worth to buy?

 

sorry ah, a bit noobish

2011 Skoda Octavia(RHD)

2012 Class FL + Komatsu/Nissan 3Tonne FL

2013 Class 2b + Adiva ADtre2, Toyota Sienna(RHD)

Posted

no, factory settings usually to meet EU emission std, so tat they can sell their bikes in europe.

most at 16~18:1 ratio, becoz carb cannot accurate meter fuel, EFI replaces carb.

 

how to tell is rw worth buying?

tough question, unless u know the owner well.

even for me, whom have taken great care of my rw, cant guaranty how good it will be when its handed to someone else.

it just depends on the user (owner) knowledge n skills on how to maintain n run.

 

why dun u start with x1, wave tat r affordable n plentiful around.

Posted

anyone finding parts can PM me, I had layup my bike and scrapping the bike next year... all stock parts are for sale, exhaust have been modified so that the silencer can be remove.... will be sending to scrap with just the frame and engine so no need to swap parts...

Posted

Ok the shop was supposed to be picking up my bike yesterday never turned up...

 

I have been offered a roadwin ECU for £190.

 

Now my question is if I buy it will it work? I can post video of error code.

 

Thanks.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

ive been riding my x5 for a year now only until recently i had this slight problem. when i off throttle, there would be popping sounds from my engine? not sure as from engine or exhaust but from rider perspective its from the header region. i checked forums as it said running too lean? maybe got lobang ? hmmm. how do i adjust ? btw, any way to increase top speed? vibrating like crazy at 110. hahah. thanks in advance!

Posted

Are there ways to make the X5 lighter, such as changing to a lighter exhaust?

 

Daelim bikes have poor workmanship. The soldering lines on the frame are visible. I didn't take note of it until I saw other X5 pictures on the net which has the same visible soldering lines.

Posted

When I first got my X5, I sibei on pump it with vpower. 4 months later, i realised pumping it with shell 95 doesn't make any difference to mileage. Not sure what difference it makes to the engine.

 

owner/cka may have replaced meter.

 

lean means burnt less fuel.

many riders r stingy on fuel, they tuned their carb to meter lesser fuel.

cause more harm than they realised.

all stock bikes, out from factories r already in lean state.

best performance is air/fuel mixture ratio 14.7:1.

 

still riding rw, will extend coe due next yr.

Posted
ive been riding my x5 for a year now only until recently i had this slight problem. when i off throttle, there would be popping sounds from my engine? not sure as from engine or exhaust but from rider perspective its from the header region. i checked forums as it said running too lean? maybe got lobang ? hmmm. how do i adjust ? btw, any way to increase top speed? vibrating like crazy at 110. hahah. thanks in advance!

 

its ok to pop when off throttle from full (will not cause any harm).

this is becoz the sudden shutoff coz vacuum n thus the pop.

unlike the rich fuel mixture, it pops at full throttle.

check the spark plug electrode tip color,

if white = lean (will cause engine to overheat).

if brown = correct a/f mix.

if black = rich.

 

to increase top speed n reduce vibration, u can change sprockets front to 15t n rear to 40t (stock is front 14t n rear 42t).

it will increase top speed to 120kph@9k+rpm (due to lack of horsepower, ur bike will not be able to pull up to n beyond 10k rpm. down hill, yes, can speed up. up hill really lacking, must drop gear n throttle up), decrease vibration n acceleration (pickup speed).

Posted
When I first got my X5, I sibei on pump it with vpower. 4 months later, i realised pumping it with shell 95 doesn't make any difference to mileage. Not sure what difference it makes to the engine.

 

fuel has ratings called RON/MON based on compressions of the engine.

our rw engine has a compression ratio of 10.4:1, so this tell the owner which RON grade to use (ie. RON95).

high performance engine tat has above 12:1 compression ratio (cr) use RON98 n above grade.

low performance engine below 10:1 cr use lower RON92 grade.

these grade r a guide for engine to prevent per-detonate, the higher grades r less likely to per-ignite.

not to enhance engine hp or watever (if u understand to science of petrol).

Posted
its ok to pop when off throttle from full (will not cause any harm).

this is becoz the sudden shutoff coz vacuum n thus the pop.

unlike the rich fuel mixture, it pops at full throttle.

check the spark plug electrode tip color,

if white = lean (will cause engine to overheat).

if brown = correct a/f mix.

if black = rich.

 

to increase top speed n reduce vibration, u can change sprockets front to 15t n rear to 40t (stock is front 14t n rear 42t).

it will increase top speed to 120kph@9k+rpm (due to lack of horsepower, ur bike will not be able to pull up to n beyond 10k rpm. down hill, yes, can speed up. up hill really lacking, must drop gear n throttle up), decrease vibration n acceleration (pickup speed).

 

Thank you for the invaluable advice. I suspect the spark plug too. Anw, how do i open up the spark plug? I like to diy stuff. Is the sprocket on the x5 universal? Or different?

Posted

all bikes come with basic kit. if u dun have it, tat becoz 2nd hand owners normally wun given.

kit contains: spark plug socket, screw driver tat has flat n cross heads which is also a extension for the plug socket and a few basic spanners.

if u do not know how to remove a spark plug which is basic knowledge, try to learn it from cka mech, ask them to show u how to do it.

spark plug sockets came in different size depending on the type of spark plug use for the engine, for rw i believe it is 16mm.

anyway, learn from cka mech, they r helpful n obliged to teach newbie how to do it.

 

newbies mistakes:

do not remove spark plug when engine is hot, expansion of materials can damage the thread.

cross-threaded r most common mistake done by newbies.

over-tightening.

dropping things into engine chamber.

after loosening the spark plug without removing the side-cover, it may trap in-between, etc.

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