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Honda RVF400/NC35


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Posted
Originally posted by Ken@Apr 6 2004, 10:01 PM

most wear and tear come from the moment u start ur bike.

 

once i even read about a way dun noe from where, b4 u start ur bike, turn the bike on, then off the cut off switch then crank a few times( for me i crank 3 times) then on the cut off switch then crank again.

 

this will enable some oil from dun noe where to go to dun noe where n will reduced some wear and tear and can make ur bike wont die so easily.

 

try this and u can feel that the bike engine sound more smoothly then normally u just start ur bike.

 

but becareful not to over crank cos it might harm ur electric stuffs.

sorry but to ask one stupid question. wat is meant by crank :cheeky:

http://powersports.honda.com/images/model/c028_029_030_031_photos_all/motorcycles/2005/CBR1000RR/LargeHoriz/CBR1000RR_large_03.jpg
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Guest TheSquid
Posted
Originally posted by Ken@Apr 6 2004, 09:49 PM

maintain at 2-3k? er.... too high liao bah.

 

for me if got such cases, i just rev to 1k only leh. cos too cold liao then will be showing 0k rpm, just hold a while like 5 seconds at 1k can liao.

 

and most importantly, sit on the bike to make sure it is straight then bike wont die off so easily liao.

 

2-3k.... very very the high. had cause some damage to the piston...

kindly explain your statement.

 

why must sit on the bike and make sure that its straight? and HOW does that help with cold start?

 

the other one lagi curious. what makes u say that rev up to 2-3k will cause harm to your piston?

 

another little question. what engine oil are u using?

 

ROD LOHHHHHHHHH

Posted
Originally posted by Ken@Apr 6 2004, 09:49 PM

maintain at 2-3k? er.... too high liao bah.

 

for me if got such cases, i just rev to 1k only leh. cos too cold liao then will be showing 0k rpm, just hold a while like 5 seconds at 1k can liao.

 

and most importantly, sit on the bike to make sure it is straight then bike wont die off so easily liao.

 

2-3k.... very very the high. had cause some damage to the piston...

2k of rpm high meh will spolit ur piston meh then i think my bike will spolit soon atuochock bike will go to 2k of rpm when the engine is cold and go down after abt 5 sec.no way to stop it.

GhostRider3 Is Out For more info or a copy can PM me.

Posted
Originally posted by CookieSoL@Apr 7 2004, 02:37 AM

kindly explain your statement.

 

why must sit on the bike and make sure that its straight? and HOW does that help with cold start?

 

the other one lagi curious. what makes u say that rev up to 2-3k will cause harm to your piston?

 

another little question. what engine oil are u using?

 

ROD LOHHHHHHHHH

hey ppl! howz things?? nahbeh! hold outing when I'm not around! beh steady leh!

:sian:

 

anyways. herez MO on Ken's theories.

 

1) To sit on the bike, set it straight while warming up yr bike is a good practice. this is extracted from the Engine Etiquette Link . it basically says sportbikes of our generation dun have a main stand anymore. Thus parkin it overnite on its sidestand is not too good on the Number 4 cylinder (inline 4) or no.3 and no.4 cylinders of a V4, as oil drains away from from the cylinders furtherst away from the sidestand and flows downwards towards the inner cylinder(s) that is the lowest point. there were proofs by test condcuted that shows a moderate wear on cylinders across to number 4 in a inline setup.

This factor is best not overlooked in a old bike as wear n tear oredy had set in and is even better to practice this on a brand new running in engine.

 

2) Engine wear n tear is the worst at start-up from cold. therefore it is best not to Rev the engine till like 5-6K from cold like some damn singapore mechanics does which in this case u can fcuk them upside down.

 

reving yr engine to 2K and holdin for a min is abit too much in my opinion. although it will not fry yr pistons like Marcng suggested..it is not neccessary. try just holdin it at 1.2 or just 1k rpm for about 10 seconds and let go, that should do if yr carbs and all are healthy. even if u insists on 2K RPM..dun hodl one minute la...too long liao..maintain just few seconds...see? even marc's superbike oso does the same. :D

 

3) cranking yr engine for a 4 stroker means..... OFF yr Cutoff switch, ON ignition, press starter button a few times ( 3times enuff hor, dun stress yr battery) u will hear the bike starter motor go EH...EH..EH..EH..EH..... this process cycles the engine oil from the oil sump to lubricate the moving parts more thoroughly than when u just crank it once and fire. again, another proven technique from that Enigiine Etiqutte link somewhere in this forum.

 

ok guys..gtg.

hope this helps. and for the newbies RVFians...its like that la...our bike no Smartass ECU to 'autochoke' the bike on cold starts, so we have to be the human ECU lor..manaully hold for 5-10 seconds from 1K -2K rpm. its no biggie to me...Carbie bikes are like that, and on a V4..the carbs are espeicallu sensitive, so dun u go do what jetting, dyno jetting without a good mechanic's help.

 

 

:cheer:

You Tailgate, I Jam Brake!

To Eliminate that False sense of achievement , Pick on bikes your own c.c.

 

http://www.geocities.com/infieldg/images/dirk_b_rc30.jpg

Posted

woohoo.... just saw AMA Superbikes valencia round here and quite sad to say..the top Yammy and Honda is not doin very well leh. Yammy is one o fthe last fews and the new Honda 1000RR is in the 5th ot 8th placin..i guess not too bad for a debut season la but the whole race is basically dominated by Ducatis 999s n 998s!!

 

goes to prove that Vees are quite good in competition racing at that level of horsepower.but one of the duc 999 had a reliability problem on the last round....sighzz.... still hoping the Honda will pick it up the rest of the season.

 

The Supersports 600 class is another story! The CBR600RR RULES man! and looks good with stock exhuast on! thaz what the commentator said! stock exhaust! at competitive levels!!

 

 

man..im so tempted to get one RR myself after watchin all that!!

 

arGGHHHH..GOD FORBID!!!!!!

 

 

 

:giddy:

You Tailgate, I Jam Brake!

To Eliminate that False sense of achievement , Pick on bikes your own c.c.

 

http://www.geocities.com/infieldg/images/dirk_b_rc30.jpg

Guest TheSquid
Posted
Originally posted by Shay@Apr 7 2004, 06:56 AM

hey ppl! howz things?? nahbeh! hold outing when I'm not around! beh steady leh!

:sian:

 

anyways. herez MO on Ken's theories.

 

1) To sit on the bike, set it straight while warming up yr bike is a good practice. this is extracted from the Engine Etiquette Link . it basically says sportbikes of our generation dun have a main stand anymore. Thus parkin it overnite on its sidestand is not too good on the Number 4 cylinder (inline 4) or no.3 and no.4 cylinders of a V4, as oil drains away from from the cylinders furtherst away from the sidestand and flows downwards towards the inner cylinder(s) that is the lowest point. there were proofs by test condcuted that shows a moderate wear on cylinders across to number 4 in a inline setup.

This factor is best not overlooked in a old bike as wear n tear oredy had set in and is even better to practice this on a brand new running in engine.

 

2) Engine wear n tear is the worst at start-up from cold. therefore it is best not to Rev the engine till like 5-6K from cold like some damn singapore mechanics does which in this case u can fcuk them upside down.

 

reving yr engine to 2K and holdin for a min is abit too much in my opinion. although it will not fry yr pistons like Marcng suggested..it is not neccessary. try just holdin it at 1.2 or just 1k rpm for about 10 seconds and let go, that should do if yr carbs and all are healthy. even if u insists on 2K RPM..dun hodl one minute la...too long liao..maintain just few seconds...see? even marc's superbike oso does the same. :D

 

3) cranking yr engine for a 4 stroker means..... OFF yr Cutoff switch, ON ignition, press starter button a few times ( 3times enuff hor, dun stress yr battery) u will hear the bike starter motor go EH...EH..EH..EH..EH..... this process cycles the engine oil from the oil sump to lubricate the moving parts more thoroughly than when u just crank it once and fire. again, another proven technique from that Enigiine Etiqutte link somewhere in this forum.

 

ok guys..gtg.

hope this helps. and for the newbies RVFians...its like that la...our bike no Smartass ECU to 'autochoke' the bike on cold starts, so we have to be the human ECU lor..manaully hold for 5-10 seconds from 1K -2K rpm. its no biggie to me...Carbie bikes are like that, and on a V4..the carbs are espeicallu sensitive, so dun u go do what jetting, dyno jetting without a good mechanic's help.

 

 

:cheer:

lets see.. first of all,

 

To sit on the bike, set it straight while warming up yr bike is a good practice. this is extracted from the Engine Etiquette Link . it basically says sportbikes of our generation dun have a main stand anymore. Thus parkin it overnite on its sidestand is not too good on the Number 4 cylinder (inline 4) or no.3 and no.4 cylinders of a V4, as oil drains away from from the cylinders furtherst away from the sidestand and flows downwards towards the inner cylinder(s) that is the lowest point. there were proofs by test condcuted that shows a moderate wear on cylinders across to number 4 in a inline setup.

This factor is best not overlooked in a old bike as wear n tear oredy had set in and is even better to practice this on a brand new running in engine.

 

then refer to the last question i posted?

 

(CookieSoL @ Apr 7 2004, 02:37 AM)

another little question. what engine oil are u using?

 

now please advice me... if ya using a good oil, wouldnt a thin 'flim' of oil STAY on your clutch plates and yabayaba even though you leave the old hag on the side stand over-night? or am i wrong?

 

reving yr engine to 2K and holdin for a min is abit too much in my opinion. although it will not fry yr pistons like Marcng suggested..it is not neccessary. try just holdin it at 1.2 or just 1k rpm for about 10 seconds and let go, that should do if yr carbs and all are healthy. even if u insists on 2K RPM..dun hodl one minute la...too long liao..maintain just few seconds...see? even marc's superbike oso does the same

 

er... check smth with u. did my statement or ken's state anything about revin to 2k and holdin for a min? or is it just an example u are quoting? :confused:

 

ROD LOHHHHHHHHHHh

Posted

Another article on V4 engines...

http://listproc.ucdavis.edu/archives/cbx/log0211/0176.html

 

To quote some...

 

"The Honda V4 are fantastic engines and the only reason they were not further

developped as street sportbikes beyond the VFR versions is a question of

manufacturing cost and weight handicap versus the simplicity of inline 4's ,

nothing to do with performances. The RC30 and 45 results speak for themselves."

 

"There is nothing wrong in the V configuration vs Inline except cost , size

and weight.

It no mystery why all F1 engines are in a V configuration !"

Posted

shay, thanks for helping type out all this. and the cranking thing is i read from somewhere in this forum bah, cant really remember.

 

good engine oil.... which engine oil is good enough to have that thin layer still still at the clutch plates? i oso like to noe. u noe which type of engine oil? cookie?

 

the 2k thing, i think he quote the example from marcng's bah, cos his autochoke is at 2k.

 

so hows guy, u all got try the on off ignition then crank technique?

 

for me after the cranking way of starting engine, the engine sound straight away like very smooth. more smooth than u straight away start bike.

 

give it a try, n u will noe. :thumb:

Guest TheSquid
Posted
Originally posted by Ken@Apr 7 2004, 12:57 PM

shay, thanks for helping type out all this. and the cranking thing is i read from somewhere in this forum bah, cant really remember.

 

good engine oil.... which engine oil is good enough to have that thin layer still still at the clutch plates? i oso like to noe. u noe which type of engine oil? cookie?

 

the 2k thing, i think he quote the example from marcng's bah, cos his autochoke is at 2k.

 

so hows guy, u all got try the on off ignition then crank technique?

 

for me after the cranking way of starting engine, the engine sound straight away like very smooth. more smooth than u straight away start bike.

 

give it a try, n u will noe. :thumb:

which oil ar? ROD brand. :lol: :lol:

Posted
Originally posted by CookieSoL@Apr 7 2004, 09:50 AM

lets see.. first of all,

 

 

 

then refer to the last question i posted?

 

 

 

now please advice me... if ya using a good oil, wouldnt a thin 'flim' of oil STAY on your clutch plates and yabayaba even though you leave the old hag on the side stand over-night? or am i wrong?

 

 

 

er... check smth with u. did my statement or ken's state anything about revin to 2k and holdin for a min? or is it just an example u are quoting? :confused:

 

ROD LOHHHHHHHHHHh

yo...

 

yes i agree that a good oil helps abit. but how good is good? u really wana take a chance with yr pistons with what they (oil companies) claimed is good oil?? i woudlnt. espeicially after 2000 or 3000 km of operation. oil breaks down and no matter how good, cannot overcome the long term efects of gravity.

 

and yes...im not quoting you...the 2K RPm idling is just to qoute an example as im tryin to help ken explain. no time to qoute swee swee who said what and answer accordingly u see. :smile:

 

and another thing, iz in the Engine Etiqutte section posted in this forum. u might wana take a look. think ken posted in these pages b4 but too lazy to dig it out.

 

:cheeky:

You Tailgate, I Jam Brake!

To Eliminate that False sense of achievement , Pick on bikes your own c.c.

 

http://www.geocities.com/infieldg/images/dirk_b_rc30.jpg

Guest TheSquid
Posted
Originally posted by Shay@Apr 7 2004, 04:17 PM

yo...

 

yes i agree that a good oil helps abit. but how good is good? u really wana take a chance with yr pistons with what they (oil companies) claimed is good oil?? i woudlnt. espeicially after 2000 or 3000 km of operation. oil breaks down and no matter how good, cannot overcome the long term efects of gravity.

 

and yes...im not quoting you...the 2K RPm idling is just to qoute an example as im tryin to help ken explain. no time to qoute swee swee who said what and answer accordingly u see. :smile:

 

and another thing, iz in the Engine Etiqutte section posted in this forum. u might wana take a look. think ken posted in these pages b4 but too lazy to dig it out.

 

:cheeky:

yep, read the 'engine etiquette' article some time back.

lets see if this helps. i'm using OWS 10w50 fully syn oil.

my recommendations for oils only include sikolene, ows and motul.

so should i STRAIGHTEN my bike and start the engine during every warm up?

pls advice :D

Posted
Originally posted by CookieSoL@Apr 7 2004, 05:52 PM

yep, read the 'engine etiquette' article some time back.

lets see if this helps. i'm using OWS 10w50 fully syn oil.

my recommendations for oils only include sikolene, ows and motul.

so should i STRAIGHTEN my bike and start the engine during every warm up?

pls advice :D

yo, i think that whether u use 10W/50 or 15W/50 will depend on what bike u ride.

 

for me i think that if riding 2B, it is better to use 10W/50 cos engine not too hot mah, so use thinner oil will be better.

 

for me, even rvf original rating is 10W/50 but i use 15W/50 cos, i always travel at peak area in peak hours so always jam like siao. bike temp always quite high. so use thicker oil. and actually i had alway used 10W/50 oil for my 2b last time and when i got my rvf, i oso used 10w/50. but i notice that when my bike temp goes high, whenever i rev, especially during traffic jams, the reving sound is different when reving when engine not so hot. the sound like is metal rubbing metal.

 

but when i change to 15W/50, now even i stuck very long in traffic jams, the sound wont be metal rubbing metal.

 

now, i last time always used ,motul cos from the reving sound of my engine, i m very sure that it can protect my bike. but as it was used by 2k to 3k km, my bike start to feel heavy and like cannot go like that.

 

now i change to sikolene, even i used till 4k km, the bike still pulls very much like when i just change it.

 

and to used 10W/40 or 10W/50, i think the 40 is means semi synthetic and 50 is mean full synthetic oil.

 

last time i always use full sythetic, but now change to semi synthetic liao cos i once read an article, dun noe which article, that we use semi sythetic is enough for our bike liao, and full synthetic is a luxury, oso becos of myth i heard that old bike like mine, dun need full syth oil liao, semi can liao so...

 

this is my own findings lah, i remember that semi n full synth produce different feel of engine pull. the full feel more smooth but semi make me feel like it can pull more significantly than full. this is what i feel lah. thats why i now switch to semi, and it is wallet friendly too. hehehehehe.

 

but for my coming bike, i will use mineral oils than semi then full lah.

 

and lastly, yes, u should straighten ur bike everytime u start ur bike.

if ur bike is those slant at larger angle 1, then all the more u should straighten ur bike. although it is a bit more troublesome to me, but i straighten bike then start when bike is cold, if bike is still warm cos just park not long ago, then i might start without straighten lah. its up to individual.

Posted

OUTING THIS WEEKEND!!!

 

Who wants to go? :bounce:

 

Venue: The same old carpark opposite of cineleisure.

Date: 090404 Friday

Time: 8pm

 

Riders:

 

1) jungleboy (nite)

2) GhostRider17 ( nite )

3) ko4la ( nite )

4) Ken

5) Bikemania

6) DaXiGuA

7) dlm

8) Yeo Yew San, newly recruited.

 

where's the others?

 

Lao Yang? buzzbean? shay? benson? vroomvroom? usmonkey? hyde81? rvfdian? evilernie? revo? Bruiselee?

 

cookie wanna join in?

 

and all those i miss out.

waiting for what. still dun quickly add in ur names!

 

P.S. Click on the quote icon then copy the stuff from the quote box into your own text box. This way, all the text formatting will be retained. :thumb:

Guest TheSquid
Posted

i see i see... have to straighten the bike to warm up. :D

Posted

OUTING THIS WEEKEND!!!

 

Who wants to go? :bounce:

 

Venue(s)

1)pitstop

2)kallang KFC

3)the same old carpark of cineleisure.

 

Friday

Riders:

 

1) jungleboy (nite)

2) GhostRider17 ( nite )

3) ko4la ( nite )

4) Ken

5) Bikemania

6) DaXiGuA

7) dlm

8) Yeo Yew San, newly recruited.

9) Usmonkey! (night)

 

 

 

Saturday

1)

2)

 

Sunday

1)

2)

 

P.S. Click on the quote icon then copy the stuff from the quote box into your own text box. This way, all the text formatting will be retained. :thumb:

 

----> Hey DLM, if you are going down this friday, bring along your damper.

 

----> Is it ok if i ride my scootie out for this outing? I crashed out on track last week. Bike is under repair.

Posted

Another question...

How many km can ur bikes clock on a full tank?

I think my fuel consumption quite high leh... Average ard

270km only then i need to refill liao...

Is it too little? Need to go 4 jetting?

Posted
Originally posted by roychanhq@Apr 7 2004, 08:41 PM

Another question...

How many km can ur bikes clock on a full tank?

I think my fuel consumption quite high leh... Average ard

270km only then i need to refill liao...

Is it too little? Need to go 4 jetting?

come out on friday nite then we answer u. :shades:

Posted

I stil quite new to the bike... Scared can't ride very well to keep up with u guys.

Haha... No lah, really wana join u guys but fri i got guard duty, not like u guys

ORD liao! I stil got 3 more mths then clear leave.

Posted

USmonkey riding his scooter. we ride relax 1.

i lead the way that day lah, sure slow and steady.

i m the safest rider here. hehehehe.

 

never mind then we tell u the answer next time when u come out with us lor. hahahahaha.

 

no lah, we average 200km haven open reserve then go pump petrol. so what do u think of ur consumption rate?

Posted

Like that i think quite ok lah... I calculated avg 1L i can go abt 17.5 Km.

That's after i added the STP gas treatment thingy my fren gave me...

B4 tt was oni 14km/1L.

Posted

1 more thing i juz thot of asking...

Does the sparkplugs we use affect starting the engine in the morning?

The salesperson tt sold me the bike told me he put "cold' sparkplugs to help prevent fast heating up of the bike, True ornot?

 

 

:giddy:

Posted
Originally posted by jungleboy111@Apr 5 2004, 09:06 PM

Update

 

Got the tow truck to bring the bike back on Saturday morning. Was told by the tow truck guy that it could be as simple as a loose battery connection.

 

When it was back at the shop, they changed this piece of thing, which is on the right side near the battery. The problem is, the mech got the electricity running even b4 the 'relay' thing was changed. Costs 65 bucks for that. Oh well, at least its not anything serious.

 

I'll be switching the old one back to see if it still works.... they probably chop me by replacing a new one...

 

One thing I noticed after changing that piece of thing... it seems my bike's response slightly better... hmmm....

 

Towing - $20

Repairs - $65

Total - $85

 

****Another quality price watch brought to you by the karang guni man jungleboy****

jus as i expected!

i also have tat kind of problems sometimes..

too bad u pay a high price..

ermm not flaming u

:sweat:

 

how u guys?? im stuck in brunei!

:help:

http://www.picturesky.com/albums/userpics/10135/ah6406.jpg http://www.picturesky.com/albums/userpics/10135/ah6402.jpg

 

*~it's not WHAT u ride, it's HOW u ride~*

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