180/55 vs 190/55 vs 190/50 on a 6 inch rim

[Hartholomew]

Hello everyone,

 

Recently, I became very curious about the differences and subsequent affects on handling, between the 3 most common sizes of tire available today - 180/55, 190/55 and the 190/50; when mounted on a 6 inch rim.

 

After much consultation, it became obvious that there were two schools of thought -The pro 180s, and the pro 190s.

 

I decided to dive into the Internet and other resources to find out as much as I could, so that I could form an educated opinion for myself.

 

For those that are not aware:

 

6 inch rear rims are typically found on ALL late model 1000s

 

5.5 inch rear rims are typically found on ALL late model 600s and some early model 1000s.

 

If you are not sure, then whip out your tape measure and find out for yourself you lazy git!

 

Here goes...

 

I found this very revealing picture while researching about the pros & cons of a 180/55 tire versus a 190/50 & 190/55, on a 6 inch rim.

 

http://sportrider.com/tech/tires/146-0302-tire5-01-zoom.jpg

 

What I found validated what some of my most trusted resources divulged to me.

 

But hey, seeing is believing! (Since I have always been a stubborn twat.)

 

Disclaimer: I am just sharing what I found, this is not meant to make anyone feel like I know any better or have never believed in what they told me. However, if you do still take offence, please contact my Arizona Service Quality Centre Supervisor, by the name of RAPTOR.

 

Steering

 

Firstly, if you compare the 180/55 with the 190/50, you will notice that the center of the 190/50 is very flat, this gives the 190/50 heavier steering from vertical. The 180/55 has a much more pointed profile, giving it quicker steering. (True)

 

Contact Patch

 

It is popular belief that 190/50s are the original fitment size on most modern 1000s from manufacturers, as they put down a bigger contact patch just off the center of the tread, making it slightly safer for a ham-fisted “newbie” rider. However, this has never been officially acknowledged.

 

As for contact patch at full lean, the 190/50 may well have less of it than a 180/55, because of the way the 190/50 has to curve around the edges near the end of the tire. The 180/55 gives an almost flat contact patch on each side of the tire, due to the taller profile that makes the shoulders “stick out”, giving it it’s typical “triangulated” shape, which is also steeper in terms of angle.

 

But when comparing the profiles of the 180/55 and the 190/55, I was surprised to see that they were identical! They both have exactly the same profiles. The only difference is that the 190/55 is uniformly taller than the 180/55 all around. So, it may be correct to say that the 190/55 is a copy of the 180/55 with a little bit more rubber across the whole cross section of the tire, to deal with “drive grip”.

 

Interestingly, the edges of the tire end at almost the same spot for the 180/55 and the 190/55, which in lay-man speak, may indicate that both tires are probably capable of the same maximum lean angle. This may dispel the myth that 180/55s on a 6 inch rim may not allow you to lean over as far as a 190/55.

 

The only variable here would be the side wall height, how that height contributes to the stiffness and how that stiffness translates to grip.

 

Ride Height

 

These are the heights of each size of tire from tallest to shortest:

 

(Note: Actual measurements may differ from brand to brand)

 

Ride height is the width of the tire (eg:190), multiplied by the aspect ratio(eg: 55, which is a percentage of the width.)

 

Formula: For a 190/55 tire, 190mm x 55% = 104.5mm

 

190/55 104.5 mm

 

180/55 99 mm

 

190/50 95 mm

 

Surprisingly, the 190/50 is the shortest tire among the three.

 

As for adjusting the ride height, there seems to be no hard or fast rule.

 

National racers around the world adjust the ride height EVERY SINGLE TIME THEY CHANGE TIRE BRANDS OR SIZES. Their reason is that different sizes of tire affect the geometry of the bike, which can make it behave very differently. Different brands of tire may also not be of the same size; even if it says so, on the sidewall. (This is a fact.)

 

Other industry professionals say that it is not necessary, as the tire has been made for it to work straight out of the box. An example of this would be when a 190/55 is fitted to an R1 Yamaha - It's Exciting!. The increase in rear ride height would make the bike flick much easier than before, and may well be intended to work as such.

 

This leaves us in the middle, so; if it feels fine, it may be better not to fix it! Or, ask someone you trust.

 

Manufacturer’s Recommendation

 

Contrary to popular coffee shop ramblings, a 180/55 is a recommended tire for BOTH 5.5 & 6 inch rims. Dunlop actually supplied 180/55s to a certain magazine when they were performing a group 1000s test. Both are also rated similarly (73W).

 

However, it is WRONG to put a 190 section tire on a 5.5 inch rim. It distorts the profile and leaves it with a multiple radius.

 

 

My Conclusion

 

For ultimate grip, the 190/55 is a sure winner on paper. It has the handling qualities of the 180/55 with more rubber all around to deal with drive.

 

However, it does give away a little in terms of weight and also changes the geometry of the bike. Anyone that has ever used a 190/55 can vouch that they are obviously huge tires.

 

Their size proportionately affects acceleration, braking and cornering negatively due to the added weight.

 

It's the same as fitting heavier rims, since both rims and tires are considered unsprung weight. Unsprung weight is whatever the suspension does not have to support.

 

The 180/55 also does increase the rear ride height by 4mm, but it is a small change when compared to a 190/55 which raises it by almost a full centimeter!

 

The trend as it seems now is to create bigger and bigger contact patches for drive grip on the side of the tyre. This can be done in 2 ways:

 

1. Reducing the rim size, ala MOTOGP.

 

(17inch to 16.5 inch and maybe even 16 inches in the future.)

 

Making the rim smaller creates more space for more rubber, especially on the side.

 

2. Increasing the aspect ratio.

 

(Popular for production based racing where rim sizes cannot be changed.)

 

If you researched race tires, you will be able to find 190 size tires available in slicks with aspect ratios of up tp 70% (190/70)!!

 

The second method is proving very popular with racers around the world.

 

But as for me, the proof is in the pudding and thus, I approached my main sponsor, my oh so caring grandmother (Sole Proprieter of Pondicherry Racing International), and managed to get my hands on a pair of 180/55 tires, to create my own opinion.

 

Thanks Gramma!

 

 

Cheers,

 

Hartholomew Mamola

 

Local Tire Bomoh, Correspondent and Love Potion Wholesaler

Reporting for ME-LICIN Tires France

[fat di]

Wah....now you even have Suger Grandmama huh??? ...no wonder you so fast...always trying to get out of her bed...

[ambasnakeman]

hmmm, very good write up...never seen anything like this even in US forums.

 

u just moved up another notch in my list.

 

that makes u 1028 now

[edmundino]

Each time I read his post, I'm getting more and more impress with him. Keep it up "Hartholomew Mamola".....

[Raptor]

From what I can see....the conversation at the corner nan (or nand or nund?? How you spell the word anyway??) shop has tickled your desire for knowledge.

 

Go forth, young Jedi warrior and learn more you must of the Dark Side. The more you know of those dark round things, in the battle at Track Galaxy, better will you be. Am sure Princess Leia Norny heart will you win over.

 

Remember Luke Hartholomew.... Oldbeonecannotbe will always be behind you.. and I mean not Brokeback style, OK?

 

Beware of Shah Vader, he is old and wise but sadly drawn to the Dark Suzuki Side.

You, R2Dol2 and Wayne3Behpio must stay together and repel this evil force that is threatening the balance of horsepower.

 

May the Force be with you!

[ambasnakeman]

hahahaha.......

 

it seems like raptor and hartomeow share similar ideas..........in their write ups....

 

something really brokeback is going on here.....

 

miss norny.....pls beware

[GrimReaper]

to the write up. you basically stated what i have been thinking for a long time hartomew heheheheheh

[Hartholomew]

  Quote

From what I can see....the conversation at the corner nan (or nand or nund?? How you spell the word anyway??) shop has tickled your desire for knowledge.

 

Go forth, young Jedi warrior and learn more you must of the Dark Side. The more you know of those dark round things, in the battle at Track Galaxy, better will you be. Am sure Princess Leia Norny heart will you win over.

 

Remember Luke Hartholomew.... Oldbeonecannotbe will always be behind you.. and I mean not Brokeback style, OK?

 

Beware of Shah Vader, he is old and wise but sadly drawn to the Dark Suzuki Side.

You, R2Dol2 and Wayne3Behpio must stay together and repel this evil force that is threatening the balance of horsepower.

 

May the Force be with you!

 

Raptor!!!

 

That was hella' hilarious!! I was laughing out loud in my office!! Im going to print this out and show it to everyone at Bike Tech....

 

By the way, it is spelt "Naan".

 

I am so happy! We got new nicknames: Shah Vader, R2Dol2!!!

HAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHA

 

You had a George Lucas moment or what!!!???

 

  Quote

to the write up. you basically stated what i have been thinking for a long time hartomew heheheheheh

 

Thans Thans, welcome dude.

 

  Quote

Each time I read his post, I'm getting more and more impress with him. Keep it up "Hartholomew Mamola".....

 

Thans Thans!

 

  Quote

hmmm, very good write up...never seen anything like this even in US forums.

 

u just moved up another notch in my list.

 

that makes u 1028 now

 

Thans Hor! But I am worried that the "list" I am on is like "Schindler's List" or some Hitlist for you!

[Hartholomew]

Well,

 

After a extensive and strenuous ME-LICIN tyre test of the 180/55 at the recent PG Track Day on the 29th of April 07, I can happily report that there was a definite improvement in the handling.

 

Disclaimer: I am just sharing what I found, this is not meant to make anyone feel like I know any better or have never believed in what they told me. However, if you do still take offence, please contact my Arizona Service Quality Centre Supervisor, by the name of "RAPTOR" or "Oldbeonecannotbe".

 

 

Firstly, the bike was responding much faster to body input. It took much less effort to flick the bike down from upright. It did not feel like you had to keep constant pressure on the bars to keep the bike from standing up or holding a line. Just relax after peeling in and let the bike do the work. Early on in the day, I was picking it up while heading for the apex as the rate of turn was faster than before. Later on, I compensated by opening up the throttle earlier than I could have done before, to force it to take a wider line without running over the apex-GOOD THING!

 

Secondly, I never felt the tyres slip the whole day, except for the 1st lap of the 5 lap challenge. This was most definitely due to the tyres cooling down for almost 20 minutes in the pits. Other than that, there was NO attenuation to grip. Rolling on to full throttle on corner exits did not provoke any spins or slides that I could feel. Also, because of the 1st point, it was possible to get to full throttle earlier as the throttle had been rolled on earlier-GOOD THING!

 

Thirdly, although the 180/55 was 4mm higher than the stock 190/50, it did not raise the rear so much that it affected handling under braking negatively. I would always fishtail on the brakes on 190/55s, unless I slowed down the way I snatch the brake lever. On the 180/55s, it never happened the whole day.-GOOD THING!

 

Fourthly, feedback was great, it felt like I had better response from the rear tyre especially while peeling in to the turn.-GOOD THING!

 

Fifthly, the bike still felt balanced in corner entry. It did not feel front heavy but very neutral through the turns. For me, this is very important and dictates how confident I feel in the bike.-GOOD THING!

 

Tyre pressures had been set AT HOME, before leaving for the track, as recommended by 5thRider. They were 31 psi front and 29 psi rear.

 

Suspension settings were not adjusted so as to not cause any confusion.

 

Tyre wear on the front was good, compared to the past. There were however, signs that "cold tears" were still occuring. Will experiment by dropping the pressure by about 1 psi the next time round.

 

The rear however, was torn up quite badly. looked like they were suffering "cold tears". Will experiment with lower pressures (27 or 26 psi) and see if it gets better. Heard from trusted sources that there is a rumour that "people in the know" use 26 psi on Michelin rears.

 

Lastly, in my own opinion:

 

The 180/55 has enough grip to cope with the way I ride and the power my bike makes. (Mostly stock, street legal ARROW slip-on w/o Power Commander.)

 

I have come to think that if someone could set a bike up properly on a 190/55 in regards to ride height, weight distribution, rider style; it could outperform a 180/55; when power and throttle application are main concerns and overshadow the other qualities.

 

As for now, I'll run the 180s till something screws up... Hahahaha.

 

As before, please do not make any life changing decisions based on this thread. I'm just sharing my experience so that others can make an educated decision on their own, without going through all the trouble.

 

Thanks to my Chindian pit crew: Devilish Deraj and Whinging Wayne, for their useless support and lame advice. (HAHAHAHHA)

 

Quote Disastrous Deraj: "...1.51. You were so slow I did not want to waste my time clocking you..."

 

Cheers,

 

Hartholomew Mamola

 

Local Tire Bomoh, MuthuGP Correspondent and Love Potion Wholesaler

Reporting for ME-LICIN Tires France

Defending Champion, Siglap Downhill Bicycle Freewheeling Speed Trials '96-'07.

[fat di]

the actual qoute was "when i saw you come out of turn 12 so aggresively, i told myself this was gonna be one flying lap.So i stop taking the fastest guy's time and focus on you. During that period of time waiting for you i was guessing that you be glad that i timed this lap.So came the moment of truth. As i saw you come out of turn 12 power sliding the rear, i said to myself "bloody showoff, Think he really Rossi on the M1 ah" then as he went pass i hit the stop button. Offical time by my Sony erricson k800i was 1.51...it was then i told myself "haiz, better dont waste my batt...

 

 

hahahahahahah:faint:

[ambasnakeman]

  Quote

Originally posted by Hartholomew@May 02, 2007 09:12 am

Heard from trusted sources that there is a rumour that "people in the know" use 26 psi on Michelin rears.

yo,

 

thats the kind of tyre pressure we use on the 400s......

 

something tells me the tyres are gonna end up like malaysian lorry on their highways.

 

hart, can u share what u mean by cold tear.....i really dunno

 

and lastly..... :thumb:

 

very good write up....

[Hartholomew]

  Quote

yo,

 

thats the kind of tyre pressure we use on the 400s......

 

something tells me the tyres are gonna end up like malaysian lorry on their highways.

 

Hey Amba,

 

Yeah i agree it does sound really low, but I remember using pressures as low as 28 psi and as high as 36 psi on the track in the past. I can't say that either was great, but the tyres were no where near explosion.

 

As they say, there is only one way to find out... try it. So I will...

 

  Quote

hart, can u share what u mean by cold tear.....i really dunno

 

A trusted source told me about this cold tear stuff. Basically, it occurs when there is too much air in the tyre. As we all know, the tyre will not heat up as much if there is too much air in it. As such, the outermost surface of the tyre will not heat up enough to it's optimum temperature, resulting on tears because it is still too cold. Hence the name"cold tears"...Get it?

 

Just in case you need something more detailed...

 

COLD TEAR (Left most picture)

(potential rebound tear)

These markings are indications of the tire having too much air so that the outer skin cannot reach the required temperature. The tire is probably gaining only 3-4 pounds when it comes off the track. It can also indicate incorrect rebound adjustment in both front and rear tires, so tire pressure gain must be checked immediately after getting off the track. Gain should be 5-7lbs from cold to hot.

 

SHOCK SPRING TEAR (3rd picture from the right)

When the shock spring is too soft or too hard, the tire carcass is put under extreme duress to the point where the tire shreds and melts. This can be determined by measuring sag to see if the target number cannot be reached firstly, without considerably adding preload to the spring or secondly, if all the preload is off the spring.

 

SHOCK REBOUND TEAR (2nd picture from the right)

When the shock rebound adjustment is incorrectly set on D.O.T. tires, the tread pattern will show cupping on the leading portion of the pattern with a raised edge followed by a low spot immediately behind it.

 

HOT TEAR(Right most picture)

When the tire has too little air in it, the pressure gain from cold to hot will be in excess of 10 pounds. When this occurs the tire melts and leaves an angled pattern yet a solid edge on the outer area of the tire.

 

 

http://www.feelthetrack.com/Art/tire-wear.jpg

 

Pics & info courtesy of http://www.feelthetrack.com

[Wayang]

isnt a cold tear something tat happens when u push the tires b4 they r properly warmed up..

[Wayang]

nice pics hart.. r there any pics of how a tire SHLD look after a track session ?

[ali_baba]

hmm.. i got a question..

the pic shows the incorrect technique tat cause the tire to tear.

 

So if u have all the perfect rebound and perfect tire pressure, what kind of tear will happen on the tire ??

as in the prefect tear.

any pic to show ?

 

and i have another question ..

so tat is to say a 190 will be better off den a 180 ???

[Hartholomew]

  Quote

Wayang Posted on May 02, 2007 04:42 pm

isnt a cold tear something tat happens when u push the tires b4 they r properly warmed up..

 

You are right Wayang, cold tears also occur when you push it before the tyres are warmed up.

 

BUT, if there is too much air in the tires, the outer layer of rubber below the layer in contact with the road may not heat up enough and still tear, causing a cold tear too.

 

Think of it this way:

 

Cold Tears caused by too much pressure right?

 

Ok, tyre pressure builds up because of flexing in the carcass (body) and heat transferred inwards from friction on the road. Do not confuse this with building up heat on the surface on the tyre.

 

Why? - Because if you only had to warm up the outer layer of rubber before "going for it", you would not need to lower the tyre pressure in the first place. If it was just all about the outer layer, race teams would just use a bunsen burner to flame the tyres before a race. The objective here is to build tyre pressure to a point where you know the tyres are happy, at full pace on the track, heating the rubber all the way through, so it holds all layers together.

 

Ever heard of "Rock Exfoliation"?

 

Look it up in Yahoo or something. Its secondary school Geography stuff and has similar mechanics about it.

 

Outer layers of the rock are heated up by direct sunlight and expand, the inner layers do not. Over time, fractures appear between the outer and inner layers because of the difference in expansion, causing the rock to exfoliate it's outer layer.

 

Ever wondered why the tyre feels sluggish and flat when you are on your 1st lap of the day? It is more to do with the tyre pressure still being too low and not the outer surface being cold. The cold outer surface makes the tyres slippery, but the low pressures make it feel sluggish and flat.

 

Also, if the tyre pressure is too high to begin with (which is the cause of a cold tear), the tyre carcass (body) will not be as flexible, it will not flex and distort enough to create heat to build up from the inside - Not enough heat - too cold ----COLD TEAR. So, if the tyre is cold from the inside, that means the inner layers of rubber are still cold. When the tyre is still cold, the rubber is still not as elastic as it should be and tear off at the surface, where it is in contact with the road; as it has not yet gained optimum elasticity to hold the said layers together.

 

Grip would still be there, but it would be just shredding itself apart to get that grip resulting in reduced tyre life, not digging in and driving you forward as well as it could, without shredding.

 

Have you seen 5thRider's tyres after a session? Smooth like as if you were carving up at Marina South, with minimal "balling up". But that is also down to the way he rides.

 

Cold & Hot Tears have happened to me in the past, on the front tyre, although I did not know at the time what to make of it. I only realised what it was when I a friend introduced me to the said website.

 

Please note that lowering your pressures too much can also be bad, resulting in a "hot tear".

 

These pictures and guides are, in the end, still guides. I believe very much in experimentation and must stress that you should experiment with pressures in small increments at a time. (1 psi at a time)

 

For the record, I have never duplicated tyre wear like 5thRider's at PG. Mine always looks like crap, probably because of poor throttle control.

 

  Quote

Wayang Posted on May 02, 2007 04:48 pm

nice pics hart.. r there any pics of how a tire SHLD look after a track session ?

 

  Quote

ali_baba Posted on May 03, 2007 12:21 am

hmm.. i got a question..

the pic shows the incorrect technique tat cause the tire to tear.

 

So if u have all the perfect rebound and perfect tire pressure, what kind of tear will happen on the tire ??

as in the prefect tear.

any pic to show ?

 

 

I'll try to find one and post it, but I was told that some level of tearing always occurs when you are pushing. It is something you have to live with to a certain extent. Also, PG is inherently rough and abrasive, so it is difficult to acheive. For now...go look at 5thRider's tyres. I have seen them before after being left adrift in a 5 lap challenge and was shocked when I saw his tyres.

 

  Quote

and i have another question ..

so tat is to say a 190 will be better off den a 180 ???

 

Like I said in my post, there are pros & cons. I cannot tell you which is better for you. Sorry bro, but I am just not qualified enough to take that risk. I'm just sharing as much as I can with everyone so that I can give you a rough idea of what to expect. In the end, you still have to go out there and try it out.

 

Best peice of advice anyone (YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE) gave me:

 

"Don't worry so much, IT'S ALL IN YOUR HEAD, just get out there and ride."

[dirtbag]

  Hartholomew said:

 

Manufacturer’s Recommendation

 

Contrary to popular coffee shop ramblings, a 180/55 is a recommended tire for BOTH 5.5 & 6 inch rims. Dunlop actually supplied 180/55s to a certain magazine when they were performing a group 1000s test. Both are also rated similarly (73W).

 

However, it is WRONG to put a 190 section tire on a 5.5 inch rim. It distorts the profile and leaves it with a multiple radius.

 

 

bro can explain what this "multiple radius" means? cos I still dont hav an idea what it means... thks!

[Hartholomew]

  dirtbag said:

bro can explain what this "multiple radius" means? cos I still dont hav an idea what it means... thks!

 

Hey Dirtbag,

 

It sorta means that the tyre, because of it being mounted on a rim too narrow for itself, will "pinch" in at the sides. The result is a different radius at the sides of the tyre to what the manufacturer intended, which will in turn affect the radius of the center of the tyre too. The product is potentially dangerous handling qualities.

[dirtbag]

ok thks, now i little bit understand...

 

changing to a 180 soon cos downgrading rims to 5.5...

 

but still dont understand why stock tyres are 190/50? what I know 190/55 is RARELY found in spore...

[Hartholomew]

Read my earlier posts again brudder... there is a mention about 190/50s

 

190/55s are abumdant in Singapore, you may be looking in the wrong places...

 

Downgrading to 5.5 inch rim? Why? I think it is a waste of money, unless you have no choice....

[dirtbag]

bro PM me shop name where got sell 190/55, prefer Pirellis apart motoworld..

but seriously le, never heard shop got sell 190/55....

PM me, dont want get into unnecessary trouble... thks!

[750GiXXeR]

Hi there dirtbag, din mean to intrude. but don't u think fitting a 180 tire to 5.5" rim is bout the same as fitting 190 tire to 6" rim? anyway, i think u gotta first know wat izit u wan from riding your bike... izit high speed on long straights dat satisfy u or corner speed n stability?

[asjunior]

  Hartholomew said:

You are right Wayang, cold tears also occur when you push it before the tyres are warmed up.

 

BUT, if there is too much air in the tires, the outer layer of rubber below the layer in contact with the road may not heat up enough and still tear, causing a cold tear too.

 

Think of it this way:

 

Cold Tears caused by too much pressure right?

 

Ok, tyre pressure builds up because of flexing in the carcass (body) and heat transferred inwards from friction on the road. Do not confuse this with building up heat on the surface on the tyre.

 

Why? - Because if you only had to warm up the outer layer of rubber before "going for it", you would not need to lower the tyre pressure in the first place. If it was just all about the outer layer, race teams would just use a bunsen burner to flame the tyres before a race. The objective here is to build tyre pressure to a point where you know the tyres are happy, at full pace on the track, heating the rubber all the way through, so it holds all layers together.

 

Ever heard of "Rock Exfoliation"?

 

Look it up in Yahoo or something. Its secondary school Geography stuff and has similar mechanics about it.

 

Outer layers of the rock are heated up by direct sunlight and expand, the inner layers do not. Over time, fractures appear between the outer and inner layers because of the difference in expansion, causing the rock to exfoliate it's outer layer.

 

Ever wondered why the tyre feels sluggish and flat when you are on your 1st lap of the day? It is more to do with the tyre pressure still being too low and not the outer surface being cold. The cold outer surface makes the tyres slippery, but the low pressures make it feel sluggish and flat.

 

Also, if the tyre pressure is too high to begin with (which is the cause of a cold tear), the tyre carcass (body) will not be as flexible, it will not flex and distort enough to create heat to build up from the inside - Not enough heat - too cold ----COLD TEAR. So, if the tyre is cold from the inside, that means the inner layers of rubber are still cold. When the tyre is still cold, the rubber is still not as elastic as it should be and tear off at the surface, where it is in contact with the road; as it has not yet gained optimum elasticity to hold the said layers together.

 

Grip would still be there, but it would be just shredding itself apart to get that grip resulting in reduced tyre life, not digging in and driving you forward as well as it could, without shredding.

 

Have you seen 5thRider's tyres after a session? Smooth like as if you were carving up at Marina South, with minimal "balling up". But that is also down to the way he rides.

 

Cold & Hot Tears have happened to me in the past, on the front tyre, although I did not know at the time what to make of it. I only realised what it was when I a friend introduced me to the said website.

 

Please note that lowering your pressures too much can also be bad, resulting in a "hot tear".

 

These pictures and guides are, in the end, still guides. I believe very much in experimentation and must stress that you should experiment with pressures in small increments at a time. (1 psi at a time)

 

For the record, I have never duplicated tyre wear like 5thRider's at PG. Mine always looks like crap, probably because of poor throttle control.

 

 

 

 

 

I'll try to find one and post it, but I was told that some level of tearing always occurs when you are pushing. It is something you have to live with to a certain extent. Also, PG is inherently rough and abrasive, so it is difficult to acheive. For now...go look at 5thRider's tyres. I have seen them before after being left adrift in a 5 lap challenge and was shocked when I saw his tyres.

 

 

 

Like I said in my post, there are pros & cons. I cannot tell you which is better for you. Sorry bro, but I am just not qualified enough to take that risk. I'm just sharing as much as I can with everyone so that I can give you a rough idea of what to expect. In the end, you still have to go out there and try it out.

 

Best peice of advice anyone (YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE) gave me:

 

"Don't worry so much, IT'S ALL IN YOUR HEAD, just get out there and ride."

Brovo bravo bravo:clap: what had explain here are very detail, thanks 4 your hard work, bro hart. Hope this 1 give a guide line to others track user.

[dirtbag]

  750GiXXeR said:

Hi there dirtbag, din mean to intrude. but don't u think fitting a 180 tire to 5.5" rim is bout the same as fitting 190 tire to 6" rim? anyway, i think u gotta first know wat izit u wan from riding your bike... izit high speed on long straights dat satisfy u or corner speed n stability?

 

 

actually had 180s on my previous bike and I like it...

had the 190/50 for the 1st time when bought my K7 1k, and I kind of dont like the feeling when I had to force myself to lean, the only thing I like about the 190s is that its huge, on the 180s, can do "sharp corners" and only need less force to do cornering and the best thing is it works for me...

 

anyway its not the point of having 180s/190s, but for me its my own preference as I asked ard whether its ok to have a 180s on a 1k, and the ans is yes it ok...

 

another thing is I cant find a 190/55 on Pirellis and the current rims I had on only allows me to put 180s on it, currently had DC3 on mine and its a 180...

 

anyway im here to enquire and gain some knowledge of the things that Im not quite sure of and NOT TO debate what is right and wrong...

[Hartholomew]

Hey Dirtbag,

 

(Sounds as if I am scolding you does'nt it???)

 

From what you said about the feedback on both tyres, you have a good head on your shoulders.

 

Anyway, for Pirelli, it depends on what you are looking for:

 

They make Supercorsa PROs in 50 & 55 sections for the 190 range

They make Diablo Corsa IIIs in 50 & 55 sections for the 190 range

The normal Diablos do not come in 55 section for their 190s.

The new Diablo Supercorsas come in 55 sections too!

 

So, you may be looking at the wrong model (eg: Diablos) which do not have a 190/55 section available. But the others DEFINITELY do, so get out there and get'em!

 

Like for Metzeler:

 

Sportec M3s do not come in 190/55s, only 190/50s

 

Race Tecs only come in 190/55s, no 50s

 

And for Michelin:

 

Power Race comes in both 190/55 & 50

 

Pilot Power comes in 190/50 only, no 55s

 

Pilot Power 2CT has both 190/50s & 55s

 

So which you like the best???

 

Pirelli? Go to Motorworld, they are the agents now...

 

Metzeler? Look for Diraj @ JR Holdings, they do Dainese too!

 

Michelin? Look for Awai, Bobby or Joe @ Sporting Motors, now behind Mah @ Moonstone lane...

 

Hope this helps!

 

Last resort:

 

If you STILL cannot find them, then PM me. I'll help you find some...

 

Cheers,

 

Hartholomew Mamola