coolant

[Tachnicolour]

Anyone tried the Toyota long life coolant for bikes. Read very good reviews in car forum.

 

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Can't speak for the toyota super long life. I'm running the honda type 2 blue coolant. Also silicate-free. Phosphate inhibitor, not a problem unless your water is hard. Believe Toyota SLL/LL is similar? Seems decent enough. Electro-fan kicks in slightly later on my trumpet. Then again, that may be because of a change to new coolant.

 

Only problem was that the old coolant had to be pretty much all flushed out. previously was a silicated HOAT. Read that mixing that with the long-life coolants may cause precipitate. not sure, but better safe than sorry.

 

35SGD/Gal at Thian Seng.

Edited March 18, 2014 by Tachnicolour

[S750WP]

The Toyota Long Life Premix Coolant is $20-30 for 4L can be bought at Ric Tat, going to give it a try.

 

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[Stourer]

The Toyota Long Life Premix Coolant is $20-30 for 4L can be bought at Ric Tat, going to give it a try.

 

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I'm using this Toyota long life light pink gylcol coolant, so far is ok, no complaint.

Bought that ar RicTat also around $23-25 last yr.

 

Friend in toyota forum said this coolant is not that good for their cars but I find it's ok for my bike.

You can try honda type2 blue coolant if you want other options.

 

At least the above 2types is alot better & cheaper than those small cans of motorcycle coolant.

[S750WP]

The Toyota SLL premix coolant is good value as my bike needs 3L of coolant. Now I am using the red line water wetter mixed with distilled water the coolant was pink initially but lose its color after six months and effectiveness hence wants to try another coolant which could last longer. The Toyota forums says the SLL coolant is good for at least 2 years.

 

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[w3nmin9]

Point taken bro. Its not a significant decrease but rather the normal lost i believe.

 

Only concern if mixing with other coolant would give an adverse effect.

not recomended to mix different coolant.

different brand got different properties, god knows what chemical reaaction they will have after mixing, etc turn into gooey substance

[w3nmin9]

The Toyota Long Life Premix Coolant is $20-30 for 4L can be bought at Ric Tat, going to give it a try.

 

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me using toyota too.

orignal is 50/50 mix, but i add more distill water to turn it to 20/80 mix.

-siingapore is tropical country, dont need the high coolant % to prevent freezing

-the more watery ur coolant is the better in cooling down ur machine

[motopsycho]

Just a quick survey, any riders here tried out Evans Waterless coolant?

[superspeed123]

Just a quick survey, any riders here tried out Evans Waterless coolant?

 

My friend using it now. Claimed that his KTM bike fan is off on a trail but his friends bikes using normal coolants were all hot and fans on. He try it when the bike is so hot and he opened the radiator cap , coolant did not splash out like normal coolant. No pressure at all in the coolant system.

[Hydher]

My friend using it now. Claimed that his KTM bike fan is off on a trail but his friends bikes using normal coolants were all hot and fans on. He try it when the bike is so hot and he opened the radiator cap , coolant did not splash out like normal coolant. No pressure at all in the coolant system.

 

Crazy friend of yours going yolo

[Isopropyl]

did a quickie coolant change yesterday.

 

drain the old coolant through the water pump. the old coolant look like those standard green coolant. the condition still look pretty good.

 

flush the cooling system with tap water till no hint of the green stuff left. top up with distilled water with a mix of about 5-6% water wetter. as it was a quickie, i did not do any heat cycle or bleed the system.

 

after riding for about 30-40 km, i checked the reservoir and found that the coolant had dropped below minimum level. further more, the pink water wetter mix had turned green:sweat:

 

i guess the drop in level is due to air been purged from the system. as for the coolant turning green, it should be caused by old coolant still within the water jacket circulated into the reservoir. not that it concern me as my practice is changing it every year. but next round i would use running water from a hose rather then just pouring water into it so that i can force more of the old coolant out.

 

topped up the reservoir and will continue to monitor for the next few days:popcorn:

[nuebike]

Recently i DIY coolant change to my bike. It was not as difficult as what i used to think. Here’s how.

 

I started by removing the 3 screws in the water pump cover (Runner riders you should know where). I put a plastic container underneath and allow all the old coolant to drained out from the pump cover hoses and with the cap of the reserve tank open. I used 2x 1.5 litres bottles of distilled water bought from NTUC to flushed out the old coolant. I didn’t use the “laychay” method of flushing, because no residue or algae was found in the old coolant. Once this is done, i install the new rubber O-ring and put back the pump cover and filled up with distilled water and let it circulated for a couple of minutes while the engine on. Then I flushed it all out again with the remaining water, installed back the pump cover & finally filled up the system with Engine Ice coolant.

 

The results - engine temperature actually dropped by at least 1 mark, stationary. 2 marks when cruising. Hot air blown out from the vents is no longer unbearable as before. The cooling fan didn’t even kick in during traffic congestion. Really cool!

 

With such a significantly good result. I wonder how come some members are saying Engine Ice is no good. I don't promote EI, but I believed other brands are equally good if done correctly. Anyway i’ll continue to monitor the performance for a few weeks and see how it goes. I hope Runner riders may find this info useful. Go on, roll up your sleeves and add some icing to your engine.

 

Thanks for reading.

[mechwira]

The results - engine temperature actually dropped by at least 1 mark, stationary. 2 marks when cruising. Hot air blown out from the vents is no longer unbearable as before. The cooling fan didn’t even kick in during traffic congestion. Really cool!

 

i'm going to point out a common misconception.

 

if using ur previous coolant you felt more hot air blown out, ur previous coolant is actually better than the engine ice u using now.

 

no matter wat brand coolant u use, ur engine will produce relatively the same amount of heat because coolant does not make engine produce less heat; coolant job is only to throw away the heat produced.

 

the following should be actual symptoms that ur new brand of coolant is better than previous:

 

1) when stationary, temp gauge rises faster and higher. because the new coolant is more efficient carrying heat to radiator. it carry more heat, and faster, temp rise faster and higher.

 

2) when moving or when radiator fan kick in, temp gauge drops faster and lower. because the better coolant more efficient at 'throwing away' heat to passing air.

 

the feel of hot air from radiator to your thighs should match the description above. stationary should be even worse feeling because its throwing more hot air than before. once you move, when the first blast of hot air go thru again u shd feel worse; but after a short while of cruising it feels cooler than before because it throws away the heat more quickly.

 

which means u change coolant and all the way you see temp gauge climb more slowly, reach lower temp, and you happily think this coolant is good..... reality is completely opposite.

[Tachnicolour]

i'm going to point out a common misconception.

 

if using ur previous coolant you felt more hot air blown out, ur previous coolant is actually better than the engine ice u using now.

 

no matter wat brand coolant u use, ur engine will produce relatively the same amount of heat because coolant does not make engine produce less heat; coolant job is only to throw away the heat produced.

 

the following should be actual symptoms that ur new brand of coolant is better than previous:

 

1) when stationary, temp gauge rises faster and higher. because the new coolant is more efficient carrying heat to radiator. it carry more heat, and faster, temp rise faster and higher.

 

2) when moving or when radiator fan kick in, temp gauge drops faster and lower. because the better coolant more efficient at 'throwing away' heat to passing air.

 

the feel of hot air from radiator to your thighs should match the description above. stationary should be even worse feeling because its throwing more hot air than before. once you move, when the first blast of hot air go thru again u shd feel worse; but after a short while of cruising it feels cooler than before because it throws away the heat more quickly.

 

which means u change coolant and all the way you see temp gauge climb more slowly, reach lower temp, and you happily think this coolant is good..... reality is completely opposite.

 

spot on. totally agree.

 

in layman terms. engine produces fixed amount of energy as heat. will always release roughly the same amount under the same conditions.

 

so if release 100units (for example, not carried off by exhaust). old coolant carries away 40 units, engine retains 60units as excess. you feel 40units of heat on your legs and is what you see on the temp gauge.

 

new coolant can only carry away 20units, your legs feel 20units worth of heat, but your engine now is retaining 80units as excess, worse for the engine.

 

as bro mechwira has said, coolant doesn't affect how your engine produces heat. it's only how much heat it can remove. and the temp gauge you see + the hot air blowing through the radiator = where the heat is being removed.

[kaiq]

Think we need to be clear first what temp is the indicator indicating, whether is it coolant temp or engine temp (got engine temp indicator?). I always tot it's coolant temp...

 

From what I understand, assuming same riding conditions before and after changing coolant:

If we feel the temp directly from the engine is lower, coolant is better.

If the coolant temp is rising faster, it's also better.

If the radiator fan starts earlier than before, it's also better.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong.

[Tachnicolour]

Think we need to be clear first what temp is the indicator indicating, whether is it coolant temp or engine temp (got engine temp indicator?). I always tot it's coolant temp...

 

From what I understand, assuming same riding conditions before and after changing coolant:

If we feel the temp directly from the engine is lower, coolant is better.

If the coolant temp is rising faster, it's also better.

If the radiator fan starts earlier than before, it's also better.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Yes, it's coolant temp showing on the instrument panels / speedo.

 

And yes, that pretty much sums it up. Though most of the time it's hard to tell when riding, if the heat is from the engine or hot air flowing past the radiator n up to the rider, that's diff for diff faired / unpaired bikes I guess.

[kaiq]

Just curious, wondering if such coolant exist.

 

We understand coolant as a pure heat transfer element, but is there any properties in the coolant whereby it keep the heat but change its own properties. Ie, coolant take the heat from engine, the heat change its internal properties, hence the heat has been converted and is not release out.

 

It's like we hold a piece of ice onto a hot surface, ice surface melts and it take time. Before it melts completely, it's still cold.

[mechwira]

Just curious, wondering if such coolant exist.

 

We understand coolant as a pure heat transfer element, but is there any properties in the coolant whereby it keep the heat but change its own properties. Ie, coolant take the heat from engine, the heat change its internal properties, hence the heat has been converted and is not release out.

 

It's like we hold a piece of ice onto a hot surface, ice surface melts and it take time. Before it melts completely, it's still cold.

 

thermodynamically impossible.

 

sorry to use cheem words, but the best i can explain is, it is scientifically impossible to convert waste heat into any other form of energy. you can convert light to electricity, wind to electricity, electricity to almost anything, but waste heat is just waste, it's done.

 

the heat the engine produces must be thrown away by the coolant, no two ways about it. no coolant has any magic property to turn the heat into something else such that we dont see it at temp gauge or through our legs.

 

 

and just to point out, in your example of the melting ice, heat energy is being used to transit from solid state to liquid state. in this transition, temperature stays the same because heat is uses in the melting process. if you can find a way to make a coolant-radiator system work with frozen ice that melts to cool the engine (or water into vapour), yes you can get a radiator where the temperature remains same and you never feel the heat thru your legs. at least until all the ice fully melted.

Edited March 31, 2015 by mechwira

[nuebike]

Thanks for the info, if there's a misconception, may I know what kind consequence do I expect? What are the damages can occur? What type of coolant do you recommend?

 

i'm going to point out a common misconception.

 

the following should be actual symptoms that ur new brand of coolant is better than previous:

 

1) when stationary, temp gauge rises faster and higher. because the new coolant is more efficient carrying heat to radiator. it carry more heat, and faster, temp rise faster and higher.

 

2) when moving or when radiator fan kick in, temp gauge drops faster and lower. because the better coolant more efficient at 'throwing away' heat to passing air.

 

the feel of hot air from radiator to your thighs should match the description above. stationary should be even worse feeling because its throwing more hot air than before. once you move, when the first blast of hot air go thru again u shd feel worse; but after a short while of cruising it feels cooler than before because it throws away the heat more quickly.

 

which means u change coolant and all the way you see temp gauge climb more slowly, reach lower temp, and you happily think this coolant is good..... reality is completely opposite.

[mechwira]

Thanks for the info, if there's a misconception, may I know what kind consequence do I expect? What are the damages can occur? What type of coolant do you recommend?

 

frankly under normal use, any coolant will do.

 

if a coolant is particularly 'poor', or your usage is rather extreme (such as continuous track session or long distance touring or you just love dragging the rpm everywhere), or somehow the bike really produce a lot of heat (like old bike or faulty system), then basically the bike will overheat and shut down, or the extreme heat will warp certain parts or wear out faster.

 

i would say that for local use, your only worry is if you regularly get stuck in traffic congestion. if you track or tour then yes go for a more efficient coolant. else, if you rarely, if ever, see your temp warning light go on, seriously your engine ice is not going to damage anything. just dont believe the hype that engine ice is somehow better. its just bloody coolant.

 

if you really want a 'better' coolant, whatever the reason maybe, my personal opinion is to go for coolants that do not contain anti-freeze. we dont have winter so we dont need any anti-freeze agent. i use maxima cool-aid, i believe water wetter is similar. when i first used maxima cool aid on my previous cbr600rr, i immediately observed the signs i mentioned.

 

the best coolant is pure water. but pure water has problems: it boils at 100 degC, it freezes at 0 degC, it bubbles when going thru the piping, it corrodes. coolant is nothing more than chemical additives to tackle these problems. but when you add these chemicals and turn the water less and less pure, then it becomes less and less efficient. a coolant without anti-freeze is purer than a coolant that has it. therefore, the coolant without anti-freeze such as cool aid is likely more efficient than coolants with.

[nuebike]

 

new coolant can only carry away 20units, your legs feel 20units worth of heat, but your engine now is retaining 80units as excess, worse for the engine.

 

as bro mechwira has said, coolant doesn't affect how your engine produces heat. it's only how much heat it can remove. and the temp gauge you see + the hot air blowing through the radiator = where the heat is being removed.

 

Thanks for the info, in your analyses if 80 units of the heat still retain in the engine, under prolong usage what kind damages would I expect? Is it rough idling, power lost or something else more serious?

[Isopropyl]

using water wetter with distilled water for my scooter. this combo work great for my kup kia but not sure why the scooter is not loving it.

 

firstly i replaced the old coolant with water wetter with distilled water. i noticed a bit of brown stain on the reservoir surface after sometime. thinking it is an old mark, i left it alone.

 

after sometime, i realize that i have forgotten to fix back the crushed washer after draining the coolant. to make the long story short, i quickly open up the drain bolt and replace the washer. being a last min job, i topped up the coolant system with water wetter and tap water mixture.

 

after sometime, i open up to check the reservoir again and discovered more brown deposit on it surface. this allow me to confirm it is not some old stain. drained away the water wetter and flushed it with tons of water which did nothing to remove the brown stain. replaced it with standard green coolant and flushed it again after some distance to ensure most of the water wetter is out.

 

not too sure what caused it but some folk does report brown sludge with water wetter. next coolant might get this hyper lube coolant.

[superspeed123]

Have been using Maxima Cool-aide for years.Every year or 15k km, will change coolant but still noticed some brown deposit in the coolant reservoir.So far so good.

[Isopropyl]

Have been using Maxima Cool-aide for years.Every year or 15k km, will change coolant but still noticed some brown deposit in the coolant reservoir.So far so good.

 

I use Maxima cool-aide before as well and got some biology growth but that is washable. the redline water wetter brown deposit can't be wash away without physical effort. just google "redline water wetter brown".

[nuebike]

Here’s a quick update after using Engine Ice for more than 1 month. I must say I am very happy with the result which is completely the opposite of some people expecting, engine temp is now better managed than the previous one, hot air blew out from the vents are not so burning hot as before, no sign of engine abnormality. I don’t think I need any other better coolant, This bloody one served me well! I would say not all coolant are suitable for every engine, but you can find one that fit your bike engine. Thanks for reading.

[virux]

Guys, Where to buy reserve coolant tank, my bike is cbr150r older carb version..