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Posted
so i'm a newbie. it's best just to go straight down to chong. ask him get it done for me?

 

approx 2 year bleed brakes fuid once?

 

Which Chong shop you go? Got address? Thank you guys.

 

Sharing of experience helps to save money!!

  • 1 month later...
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Posted

Have tried the bleeding method on my front brakes(2 pot caliper), have get rid of all the air bubble but it seems that the piston in the brake caliper doesn't "protrude out" when brake fully depress thus its not pushing on the brake pads and no braking effect at all. The brake lever can be fully depress all the way and which shouldn't be the case. Before bleeding, I 've accidentaly retract the piston by pressing the brake pads onto the piston when changing the brake pads, now it seems that the piston doesn't "comes out". Found some info on the net that the piston might be rusty? Any one has any idea or remedy? thx.

Posted

There are still air in your brake lines.

 

Keep doing it until you can feel pressure in the brake lever. If you are using the pump lever method, it takes many many pump at the lever to get air bleeded once you have introduced air into the system.

 

Have tried the bleeding method on my front brakes(2 pot caliper), have get rid of all the air bubble but it seems that the piston in the brake caliper doesn't "protrude out" when brake fully depress thus its not pushing on the brake pads and no braking effect at all. The brake lever can be fully depress all the way and which shouldn't be the case. Before bleeding, I 've accidentaly retract the piston by pressing the brake pads onto the piston when changing the brake pads, now it seems that the piston doesn't "comes out". Found some info on the net that the piston might be rusty? Any one has any idea or remedy? thx.
  • 3 months later...
Posted

bleeding the brakes tomolo night... in case anyone wants to join. wish me luck! hahahaha...

 

Cheers,

HiLMi

Posted
bleeding the brakes tomolo night... in case anyone wants to join. wish me luck! hahahaha...

 

Cheers,

HiLMi

 

if u hav the rite tools to diy bleeding, very high chances nothing will go wrong..

:)

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/3549/penguin.jpg

2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

Posted

hahaha... agreed bro! postponed to tonight cos didn't have a size 8 wrench. initially tried the adjustable type, but couldn't grip properly enough, so didn't wanna risk rounding the nut. tonight it is!! hahaha...

Posted
if u hav the rite tools to diy bleeding, very high chances nothing will go wrong..

:)

 

well, you were right abt the bleeding. quite an ez affair cos managed to bleed 2 out of 3. my front right brake nipple refused to budge, and i suspect i've rounded the nut a tad too much. looks like a visit to the bike shop is needed soon...

 

Cheers,

HiLMi

  • 1 month later...
Posted

its nt that hard actually i hekpeed my friends bleed b4 eg s4,phanton,r1 even my blackbird w CBS hahaha all voice down to 1 thing do it nice n slow don ever rush.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
whats the size of the tube u guys use to connect to the bleeder?

where to get ah?

 

get from the aquarium shop..

juz get the normal grade..

:)

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/3549/penguin.jpg

2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

  • 5 months later...
Posted

hey guys im riding sp and i assume the nipple nut size is a universal size 8?

 

i just wanna confirm which tool is used to unscrew the nut. i dont wanna end up with a round nut :cheeky: If its possible can someone post a pic of the tool, cuz im not sure which name belongs to which tool. thanks a LOAD :D

Ride, Eat, Sleep, Repeat...

Posted
hey guys im riding sp and i assume the nipple nut size is a universal size 8?

 

i just wanna confirm which tool is used to unscrew the nut. i dont wanna end up with a round nut :cheeky: If its possible can someone post a pic of the tool, cuz im not sure which name belongs to which tool. thanks a LOAD :D

 

size 8 ring spanner..

:)

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/3549/penguin.jpg

2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

Posted

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/DSCN4884.jpg

 

is that the ring spanner on the left? sorry very noob :cheeky:

Ride, Eat, Sleep, Repeat...

Posted

The tool in the picture is a combination wrench/spanner. It has an open wrench in one end and a 12 points ring wrench at the other end.

 

You can use the ring end to open or close the bleed nipple.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/DSCN5800.jpg

 

Avoid using the open end.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/PDSCN5794.jpg

 

Flare nut wrench/line wrench is the better tool, minimize the chances of rounding off the bleed nipple :thirsty:

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/DSCN5790.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/DSCN5793.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/3-2.jpg
Posted
The tool in the picture is a combination wrench/spanner. It has an open wrench in one end and a 12 points ring wrench at the other end.

 

You can use the ring end to open or close the bleed nipple.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/DSCN5800.jpg

 

Avoid using the open end.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/PDSCN5794.jpg

 

Flare nut wrench/line wrench is the better tool, minimize the chances of rounding off the bleed nipple :thirsty:

 

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/DSCN5790.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/DSCN5793.jpg

 

 

 

thank you bro!! really2 helpful with those pics :)

ima get that tool now... ill update on how it goes..

Ride, Eat, Sleep, Repeat...

  • 1 month later...
Posted

you could try finding Ah Heng, a bmech that works at Sunburst at AMK industrial hub. he does excellent servicing, better than most shops from what iI heard. plus if there're any problems arising after he's done he'll fix it up for you. last time I had some problems after maintenance he rectified for free

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Very helpful guide, changed both my front and back brake fluid, after poor workmanship from shop caused lots of air bubbles in the system :slapforehead: damn scary, both front and back brakes very loose. PRC *ahem* mechanic. Since then I only trust myself to service my brakes :sweat:

 

Heres a warning though, if your bike got fairing, please please cover it up nicely with newspaper or best, take out. Even if naked bike, the fluid might drip onto your front mudguard and destroy the paint.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

thanks for the guide! changed my both my front n back brake fluid! amazed at hw milky my rear ones were.. my front still ok, cux shop bled about 3 mths back.. was quite a quick job, although pumping my front brake was damn tiring! but very nice feeling! my rear brakes no longer spongy!

A ride a day, keeps the doctor away!

:thumb:

 

2010-2012 : Honda Phantom TA200

2012-current : SYM Maxsym 400i

 

Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/adiknaim

 

 

SG Maxsym FB Group: http://www.facebook.com/groups/sgmaxsym/

  • 8 months later...
Posted

I had very spongey brakes (wave s) today on the way to vivo, to the point where i could depress my brake lever almost fully >_> so when I got home, started reading SBF, and figured I should check my brake reservoir..opened it and to my shock (and horror) it was completely empty..

 

So I rushed to mustafa and tried to find some stuff to bleed/refill my brake fluid, but couldnt find the hose and stuff. Ended up buying some DOT4 from shell on the way home, and just topping up the reservoir. Now the brakes are alot better, more flex and feel, better stopping power too.

 

But I can't help feeling worried that something is leaking >_> brake fluid doesnt just "disappear" or get "used up" like that right???? wiki says brake fluid isn't a "top-up" type of liquid..anyone know any ways o checking for leaks? or is the only option bringing it down to the mech....advise please! =\

past rides: Wave-S, ZXR400-L7, DT200r, CMX250, SL750

Posted

Does anyone here find that stainless steel brake hoses are way too sensitive compared to the stock rubber ones?

[2005 Yamaha YBR 125]

 

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad291/crazydj_sgbikes/WarningMagicalFuelPenguins2.jpg?t=1261137815

Posted (edited)
I had very spongey brakes (wave s) today on the way to vivo, to the point where i could depress my brake lever almost fully >_> so when I got home, started reading SBF, and figured I should check my brake reservoir..opened it and to my shock (and horror) it was completely empty..

 

So I rushed to mustafa and tried to find some stuff to bleed/refill my brake fluid, but couldnt find the hose and stuff. Ended up buying some DOT4 from shell on the way home, and just topping up the reservoir. Now the brakes are alot better, more flex and feel, better stopping power too.

 

But I can't help feeling worried that something is leaking >_> brake fluid doesnt just "disappear" or get "used up" like that right???? wiki says brake fluid isn't a "top-up" type of liquid..anyone know any ways o checking for leaks? or is the only option bringing it down to the mech....advise please! =\

 

Well, if your fluid is old or you've been overheating the pads like mad, could cause it to boil off. More likely is that as you use up brake pad material, more fluid goes into the void where the pistons used to be. e.g. fluid goes down and stays in the piston cuz they have moved out more to push the thinner pads to the disc. You'll see the fluid level drop gradually over time as compared to when you have just installed new pads. If it's dropping at quite a rapid rate, yea, you might have a leak. How to check, i dunno, may one of the laojiaos come in to explain.

 

Does anyone here find that stainless steel brake hoses are way too sensitive compared to the stock rubber ones?

 

Sensitive is good innit? Anyway, there shouldn't be too much of a diff if stock rubber ones are new as well. If old, noticable under hard braking only should be the norm. Perhaps it's the change of brake fluid which makes the brakes feel less spongy?

 

 

 

 

 

I've just done my brake bleeding and would like to share a method posted on an overseas forum which gives a tip on how to bleed quickly with no bubbles!

 

1) Crack open bleed nipple

2) Attach tubing

3) Route/Direct tubing upwards over handlebar and down the otherside into a bottle with old fluid covering the tube exit in it (Make sure bottle is propped higher than caliper position.

4) Crack open bleed nipple, start pumping like crazy.

5) Top up reservoir without letting it get empty.

 

Gravity keeps the fluid column flowing "down" towards the bleed nipple, bubbles will head up the fluid column.

Since you can pump hard and fast this way, bubbles in the brake lines get forced down the brake hose out of the caliper.

As the fluid is flowing "downwards" when you let go, it doesn't suck air bubbles back in from the nipple (I applied a little silicone grease to the threads to keep air from going past the threads)

 

Using this method and 500ml of fluid, I managed to bleed both front brakes in 15mins. And the rear in 10. Result? Solid-as-hell brake levers. :)

 

edit: *just realised the only diff this is from the guide on the first page is the routing of the tubing up and over the handlebars. Not sure if it makes any diff, but in my mind, helps the bubbles get away from the bleed nipple as they head upwards.* :angel:

Edited by Tachnicolour

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac46/Tachnicolour/Completed%20works/combination_2.jpg

 

Convert your backlight COLOURs at : <CMO> Speedo Backlight colour CONVERSION by Tachnicolour

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