Improving the front end

[Lucas]

Originally posted by BabyVTEC@Feb 24 2004, 01:12 AM

the suspension is really funny one..hard to find 2 riders totally agree on a same setup..some may like it a bit harsh..some may not..even 2 person with excatly same riding style might not have same weight....even both with same weight might not have same riding position..so the set up might be mighty perfect for me..might not suit you.....LOL...its just like Rossi gives you his bike with setup according to his liking might be totally out for you....

best way is to get some one set the SAG properly for you first then slowly play with the rebound and compression damping for those who have adjustable option....take time and patient of cos....best way is to find a route u ride everyday best is desserted....keke click a bit here and there everyday..feel the diff...

find the best set up...dun think stock suspension will go so wrong that it throw u off ur bike....cos everymanufacturer r prepared to have suspension idiots like me....who will try things ard...lol

That I agree with you... The suspension setup is very individual as it varies from rider to rider... http://mysmilies.ipbfree.com/s/otn/happy/auto.gif

[NoLogicOne]

I know this is a Suspension setup discussion, but could I ask something about tyres setup??? My bike has 2 choices of front tyres. 120/60-17 and 120/70-17 and only a single rear choice 180/55-17.

 

Which front is a better choice??? And Why??? My research shows that /70 gives higher loading. Even nowadays, bikes like CBR600RR goes for /70 at the front. Only earlier model like the CBR600F4 uses /60 stock. How's that affect handling and feedback?? Is it more forgiving to mistakes made by the rider??? Does it makes the bike more easier to flick since /70 is slighter bigger in dia. compared to /60???

 

Thanks for all points shared.

[slowrider]

Originally posted by NoLogicOne@Mar 29 2004, 11:16 PM

I know this is a Suspension setup discussion, but could I ask something about tyres setup??? My bike has 2 choices of front tyres. 120/60-17 and 120/70-17 and only a single rear choice 180/55-17.

 

Which front is a better choice??? And Why??? My research shows that /70 gives higher loading. Even nowadays, bikes like CBR600RR goes for /70 at the front. Only earlier model like the CBR600F4 uses /60 stock. How's that affect handling and feedback?? Is it more forgiving to mistakes made by the rider??? Does it makes the bike more easier to flick since /70 is slighter bigger in dia. compared to /60???

 

Thanks for all points shared.

If you are refering to the two types of front tires then with the rear of that size and profile you should settle for the /60 for the front.

 

But the choice of front tire will affect the steering and handling of the bike more than the rear so this really boils down to individual perference.

 

Eithier you want to have a more responsive front and steers lighter or a heavier front but with a more neutral or lesser response when you lean.

 

Besides there are other aspects to consider even with the same /60 profile but different tyre brand. Some are more triangular while others are more rounded.

 

If you had tried the different brand tires maybe you could settled in for a better choice.

[NoLogicOne]

Originally posted by slowrider@Mar 30 2004, 10:52 AM

If you are refering to the two types of front tires then with the rear of that size and profile you should settle for the /60 for the front.

 

But the choice of front tire will affect the steering and handling of the bike more than the rear so this really boils down to individual perference.

 

Eithier you want to have a more responsive front and steers lighter or a heavier front but with a more neutral or lesser response when you lean.

 

Besides there are other aspects to consider even with the same /60 profile but different tyre brand. Some are more triangular while others are more rounded.

 

If you had tried the different brand tires maybe you could settled in for a better choice.

Thanks. So which profile delivers the lighter and quicker steering??? /60 or /70?? I myself have generate a list of "tyres to buy". I will not use different set of tyres. Considering Dunlop D208ZR, Avon Azaro SP, Metzeler Sportec M-1, Me Z3/Z1 Racing, Roadtec Z6, Bridgestone BT014, BT56 or 57, Pirelli Dragon Corsa or Evo Corsa, Continental ContiForceMax or Michelin Pilot Sports/Road.

 

All offers the /60 or /70 front, so I'm kindda mixed up right now......these tyres will be on a sports bike, not a sports touring. Feedback from the front is what I rate "most important". I have to know what the front tyre is doing when I ride.

 

Or is there any articles I can read up to enhanced my selection???

 

Thanks for all opinion and experiences shared!!!

[BuiEh]

Originally posted by Sean@Jan 18 2003, 06:38 PM

As a first stage in improving your forks, the progressive springs should be removed and replaced with linear rate springs. " This reduces the dive under braking, meaning the bike doesn’t pitch forward so much and it

remains more stable when the brakes are used hard. The forks are also less likely to bottom-out, all of which improves wheel control and hence grip, plus stability. It’s not expensive, either, with a pair of Ohlins springs costing around £68 a pair. On many bikes, such as Honda’s FireBlade and SP-1 or Suzuki’s GSX-R600, fitting them is easy, too, and well within

the scope of the home mechanic, though on others, such as the R1 and GSX-R1000, Brendish describes it as " a pig of a job! "

 

This already makes a big improvement, which is noticeable on the road and which many riders say transforms their bikes on track days. But there’s more which can be done.

 

Stage two is to change the original 5W damping oil for a heavier 10W oil (these ratings apply to specialist fork oil). According to Brendish, this is effective on a lot of road bikes, especially the R1, but it’s not that easy on inverted forks, which have to be removed and then turned upside-down so the old oil can be pumped out. It should then be replenished to

the recommended level.

 

" With the linear springs, this will bring the damping adjusters back to the middle of their range, " said Brendish. " Otherwise, a lot of riders find with the 5W oil they have the adjusters wound up fully, right on the limit of their damping for the forks to work properly. "

 

The damping action can be improved further using revalving kits. The damping works by an internal piston forcing oil through a stack of shims at each end of the fork. Ohlins produces kits to replace the pistons and shim stacks with more finely-machined and calibrated ones. The firm won’t sell the kits on their own in the UK because fitting them is such a specialist job – the potential for damaging the forks is considerable. But the cost is still not excessive.

 

Take your forks to an official Ohlins centre and for most superbikes the cost is around £350 (with a two-day turnaround time), though R1s and R6s cost around £400 as they also need to have a rebound piston holder fitted.

 

The pistons used are the same as those fitted to the 1997 Ohlins superbike racing forks, while the shim stacks are carefully calibrated by Ohlins technicians. You’ll then have forks identical to many used on the current Superstock race bikes, which means front-end control and grip is transformed.

Sorry, there is a few things that I need to clarify as Im really a newbie ..

 

Can someone explain what is this:

Forks

Progressive Springs n Linear rate springs

bottom-out

??

[chung]

How often do we typically service the front fork?

What are the routine services include?

[Kira Yamato]

Originally posted by chung@Aug 1 2004, 09:01 AM

How often do we typically service the front fork?

What are the routine services include?

GO TO BIKE LAB

THEY WILL SOLVE UR PROBLEM

[Guest Stan]

Originally posted by thrash2limit@Aug 28 2004, 01:07 AM

GO TO BIKE LAB

THEY WILL SOLVE UR PROBLEM

Why is the promotion this time even more Ex than last time??

The last time only $325 for front and rear but now is $380... WOW...

[FunkyChicken]

$380 for wad bike???? i service front fork from mezzo $160 liao gone. went bike lab, i muz say impressive workmanship, tools and friendly!! swee swee do ur bike with care and not rush to close shop.

[dirt_man8]

Put super glue at front tire.

[spaiduhz]

alright. how about rear end for older bikes?

 

my rear suspension is more dead than alive. held up only by the external coil. in the event where i cant source a working replacement from a scrapyard... where can i have it rebuilt? Does the suzuki agent still hold stuff for the 15 year old GSX400R?

[crecutshri]

I accept with information:This already makes a big improvement, which is noticeable on the road and which many riders say transforms their bikes on track days. But there�s more which can be done.

Stage two is to change the original 5W damping oil for a heavier 10W oil (these ratings apply to specialist fork oil). According to Brendish, this is effective on a lot of road bikes, especially the R1, but it�s not that easy on inverted forks.

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[petrixx]

an interesting motorcycle suspension set-up i found online that might help?

 

http://www.gostar-racing.com/club/motorcycle_suspension_set-up.htm#SET%20UP%20BIKE%20TO%20YOUR%20WEIGHT

[vladivostok]

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[vladivostok]

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[vladivostok]

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[waynetai]

hi, how to correct a slanted/out of alignment fork?

[waynetai]

my bro's sp doesn't track straight cos of it. full turn of the handlebars are different on either sides.

[waynetai]

is it dangerous to keep the fork slanted?

[fmaorui]

can any modifications be made for 2b forks?

[GuiNNeSS]

can any modifications be made for 2b forks?

Depends on what you want to do? And also your budget, bigger the pocket the more you could do.

But an advise i could give is to stick to what you have now and play with the setting up of the Fork. Grade and Amount of oil plays a big part in on-road bikes.

 

So far i see a lot of brands of fork oil out there with a few grades in their product line.

(Exp: Ipone's Fork Fluids = Grade 3 ~ 20 fully Synthetic, Motul's : Grade 2.5 ~ 20 and so on)

 

So get a good Mech who knows what his saying and have enough experience on dealing with fork to do what you need. (Road Riding(Comfort & Smooth) and Track Riding(Harder & Responsive) needs totally Different Set-up, so don't fool around.)

 

2 Cents Worth

[GuiNNeSS]

is it dangerous to keep the fork slanted?

 

Yes if it's due to an Accident. Unwanted accidental shifting of Fork angle will change Geometry and handling of bike. Stick to Factory set up unless you know what you are doing.

If it's from an accident, get it replace or you might get into another accident, your life is worth so much more than that few hundred dollars.

[aster]

rd up on some but dunno hw 2 do leh...sounds complicated...

 

No buddy, it isn't so complicated. Don't worry

----------------

Enjoy the ride with 1984 xr 250

[aster]

Is there anyone who has tried 1985 honda xr350r as the first ride? I am owning but having some trouble as well so need some help

[aster]

if not? Anyone who has awareness about 1985 honda xr350r for sale? I am severely in need of it.