How to improve the fuel consumption of your bike.

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

Running lean not recommended anyway for tropical climates. Unmanaged overheat = sieze = nice big repair bill.

 

Lean is only useful for cold cold nights (easier starting) and rainy weather. Detuning the power output a bit can help newer riders control their horses better.... erm, if they know how to DIY tune that is.

 

A lot of bike shops tune bikes to run lean (Because the mechs think easy starting bike is good) and this in my opinion is the major pollution concern - the riders don't know what is running lean like, contrast with enthusiasts who know how to tune their carbs themselves and do it for a legit purpose. Running lean and trying to hit top speed on the highway is a silly idea anyway, since the overheating engine causes major power loss once a certain threshold is reached. (predetonation and other effects)

 

With more new bikes coming out with good EFI, that problem should be buried in history with time.

[stsoh]

recently i watch mythbusters s09e13 bikes, they do analysis comparing bikes to cars from 80s, 90s n 2000 make.

they found out tat even though bikes is more fuel efficiency but produce much more air pollutants than cars.

[SV650]

i guess the clear carbon theory is to ram the bike at high rpm while on load so the pressure built up and carbon is being force out? does it work if you run your bike hard at lower gear so you can achieve the same effect without the danger of speeding?

 

i might be wrong but sometime i think going to the north for "clearing carbon" is an excuss for speeding just like loud pipe save life:cheeky:

I just throttle harder when I ride out of Singapore. Guess it might work if you do it on lower gears.

 

As bikers, we all need some excueses to ride out, ain't it?

[crazydj]

I don't know about you guys but i think the title is wrong.

 

Why would anyone want to improve the fuel consumption of their bike? If improve fuel efficiency, i understand ah. But improve on how much fuel is consumed? Haha. No offence ah. Just pointing out.

[ezzyoiler]

I don't know about you guys but i think the title is wrong.

 

Why would anyone want to improve the fuel consumption of their bike? If improve fuel efficiency, i understand ah. But improve on how much fuel is consumed? Haha. No offence ah. Just pointing out.

 

just plain english...lah.....

if you are right ..if this is wrong..hey i may need to attend english enrichment class....haha

[ezzyoiler]

everything in life is a compromise...

you want max eficiency....you sacrifice certain things...

 

for best fuel consumption on bike...get a electric scooter..(bike not available yet)..

zero litres for all your rides.

[Tachnicolour]

Running lean not recommended anyway for tropical climates. Unmanaged overheat = sieze = nice big repair bill.

 

Lean is only useful for cold cold nights (easier starting) and rainy weather. Detuning the power output a bit can help newer riders control their horses better.... erm, if they know how to DIY tune that is.

 

A lot of bike shops tune bikes to run lean (Because the mechs think easy starting bike is good) and this in my opinion is the major pollution concern - the riders don't know what is running lean like, contrast with enthusiasts who know how to tune their carbs themselves and do it for a legit purpose. Running lean and trying to hit top speed on the highway is a silly idea anyway, since the overheating engine causes major power loss once a certain threshold is reached. (predetonation and other effects)

 

With more new bikes coming out with good EFI, that problem should be buried in history with time.

 

Thought cold starts were easier when mix is rich. Fuel doesn't vapourise as easily when cold, hence less saturation of the air. Think droplets vs mist of fuel. Less combustible. Is also the reason why there used to be chokes, for richening the mix during cold starts by choking off part of the air supply. Of course, now with EFI, all electronically controlled.

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

You can try it yourself risk free with any carb bike with easily accessible adjustment screws, lean setting starts with a couple of cranks on a cold morning without any priming. Good response riding out of the carpark and eventually loses power as it overheats.

 

Sent from my hong kong gangsta phone using Tapatalk

[Tachnicolour]

Tried on my previous Pulsar, choke on, 1 crank. No throttling/priming required. Choke restricts airflow, or turns on enriching circuit, lowers A/F ratio. Still doing the same on my bro's current Pulsar. Running a slightly rich mix right now. With the choke off, and not having used bike for week+, requires multiple cranks. Just flip the choke on and it starts + idles for warmup with no hiccups.

 

Anyway the adjustment screw is just for idle air bypass tweaking.

 

Bike runs leaner when cold air present. Maybe only diff.

[velocity325]

With the ever rising petrol prices... here are some tips on how to improve the consumption of your ride.

 

2. Fuel mixture screw (Idle jet)

With the bike warm and idling, turn in (lean) in the fuel mixture screw. The tip of the screw will restrict the fuel flow from the pilot jet as it is screwed in (leaner) backing it out will make the idle mixture richer. Turn in a 1/4 turn at a time and observe the idling. If the engine starts to stutter and miss, back out again.

 

 

Do share please.

 

fuel mixture screw isnt the choke button right?

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

fuel mixture screw isnt the choke button right?

 

No, of course not. Never ride with the choke on, it's meant for starting or 'priming' the engine.

 

Mixture adjustment screws are most easily found on older commuter bikes like Phantom, GN125, etc. You'll see exposed screws meant for idle and mixture adjustment.

 

Each carburetor and engine setup has its own quirks - don't anyhow turn screws and 'see what happens' - usually bike owners' clubs or specific forums can tell you what screw does what.

[velocity325]

No, of course not. Never ride with the choke on, it's meant for starting or 'priming' the engine.

 

Mixture adjustment screws are most easily found on older commuter bikes like Phantom, GN125, etc. You'll see exposed screws meant for idle and mixture adjustment.

 

Each carburetor and engine setup has its own quirks - don't anyhow turn screws and 'see what happens' - usually bike owners' clubs or specific forums can tell you what screw does what.

 

woah woah waaa..thanks!!

[Fleaa]

EFI bikes to increase fuel efficiency!!!

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

EFI bikes to increase fuel efficiency!!!

 

That works.

 

Road test from an Irish friend of mine on his CBF125 (The Euro, EFI version of the local CBF150).

 

Max speed 130kph.

Average fuel economy 65km/l.

Stock. I told him he could boost economy even more by optimising the gearing.

[Hydher]

Omg 65km/L!

[stoner]

Best way?

 

 

 

Lose Weight.....

[gohjohan]

Best way?

 

 

 

Lose Weight.....

 

For small bikes, it's true. Big bikes, not much difference since the bike's power can easily compensate for the weight gain

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

There are a lot of fuel economy tips out there. Some involve money, some don't. Some are scientific, some try to act smart.

 

Ignore all of them.

 

For optimal fuel efficiency, follow the manufacturer's recommendations of frequent maintenance. Ride safely, within the safe operating limits of the road and your machine. Cut down on aggressive overtaking and unnecessary revving 'for show'.

 

Guarantee that this free advise does better than all those so called 'fuel economy boosting' products out there. Any con-salesman can tell you to pour vegetable oil in your fuel tank, and slap a magnet on your bike for 10% magical power boost.

 

But it takes guts to trust not the man on the street but your bike's manufacturer, who spent millions of dollars to perfect your motorcycle so it can reliably serve you for many years to come. Your bike is designed for a certain performance envelope while delivering a certain amount of economy. You picked the bike And the best you can do to the bike is careful and well scheduled maintenance just as the factory documented in the manual. This ensures optimal efficiency of all the moving parts of the engine, keeping friction to a minimum, and with it, superior fuel efficiency.

 

Just my two cents on this volatile topic of fuel economy.