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Posted

Not really.... Its a hassle .. but greater care, attention & satisfaction.

 

 

DISCLAIMER:

 

1. Might not be the perfect way VS the bike shops, but some shortcut ways for DIY.

 

2. Is not the complete sequence to service manual. But saves big time & not ending up DISMANTLING everything if follow manual.

 

3. Might not be applicable to all bikes, but the generic idea and major items to remove is similar.

 

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

THE DAMAGE?:

 

1. Takes approximately 1.5~2.0hrs (well it took me 3.0hrs++ including the pictures though.. ) :cheeky:

2. A little sore back (no proper bike hoist) & cuts (space constraint)

3. Very dirty hands that some shops/restaurants gave the "!@$@%@%" look.

 

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thank You.

 

Regards,

AR2 Performance

 

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RACEshield URL - > http://www.raceshield.com

RACEshield FACEbook - > http://www.facebook.com/pages/RACEshield/119281238033

 

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Posted

For DIY case.. maybe this would help.

 

 

Some tools/check to prep before fixing those new plugs in

 

Tools for checking/adjusting.

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug01.JPG

 

 

 

Gap checking

 

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug02.JPG

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug03.JPG

 

 

 

 

Gap Adjustment

 

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug04.JPG

 

 

 

 

Oh remember to remove the gold cap screw. Some bikes need it.. my 02VFR needed it to be SUPER tight fitted.... but my 06R6 doesn't require it at all

 

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug05.JPG

Thank You.

 

Regards,

AR2 Performance

 

http://www.raceshield.com/images/raceshieldmotorbikekits.jpg

 

RACEshield URL - > http://www.raceshield.com

RACEshield FACEbook - > http://www.facebook.com/pages/RACEshield/119281238033

 

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Posted

Sift out all petrol... I realized it helps especially when I am very skinny w/o any muscles :cheeky:

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug06.JPG

 

 

 

 

My lazy yet effective way to "tarik" the tank. Slot a piece of wood underneath (near the pivot.. best with cloth wrapped ard the wood...) :cheeky:

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug07.JPG

 

 

 

 

Remove upper air-filter case

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug08.JPG

 

 

 

Remove fuel hose (primary injector fuel rail to secondary injector fuel rail)

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug09.JPG

 

 

 

 

Plug out the Atmospheric pressure sensor.

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug10.JPG

 

 

 

 

My no.2 lazy yet effective way not to remove THE WHOLE assembly. Rest on a box :cool:

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug11.JPG

 

 

 

 

Remove Lower air filter case. BUT PLEASE cover the 4 holes FIRST leading into the throttle body. You won't want a fly to drop in right? :giddy:

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug13.JPG

 

 

Remove Air induction system hose (air filter case to air

cut-off valve) & Crankcase breather hose respectively with pics shown

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug14.JPG

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug18.JPG

 

 

 

 

And there goes the no.3 lazy way so i won't have to remove the whole lower filter case.... pull up and masking tape to tank.

 

Remember to cover the 4 holes again!

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug15.JPG

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug19.JPG

Thank You.

 

Regards,

AR2 Performance

 

http://www.raceshield.com/images/raceshieldmotorbikekits.jpg

 

RACEshield URL - > http://www.raceshield.com

RACEshield FACEbook - > http://www.facebook.com/pages/RACEshield/119281238033

 

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Posted

Air Induction unit Removal

 

 

Remove the Air induction system cover first

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug16.JPG

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug17.JPG

 

 

Remove the Induction unit as a whole. Plug out the 2 hoses and ...

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug20.JPG

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug21.JPG

 

 

...and 1 connector ...

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug22.JPG

 

 

 

The 4 plugs are accessible NOW!!!

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug24.JPG

Thank You.

 

Regards,

AR2 Performance

 

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RACEshield URL - > http://www.raceshield.com

RACEshield FACEbook - > http://www.facebook.com/pages/RACEshield/119281238033

 

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Posted

Plug out the Ignition connector then the Ignition coil

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug26.JPG

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug27.JPG

 

 

Insert in your trusty plug tool that comes with your bike and its finally out!!!!

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug28.JPG

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug29.JPG

 

 

 

Gap is well within 0.6~0.7mm (for my bike that is), but then it is well fried at 18,371km

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug30.JPG

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug31.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These are extras that i do.....

 

1. Clean the Ignition coil interior.

 

a) Dry clean with paper towel

b) GT85, air gun, let it dry

c) then paper towel again

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug32.JPG

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug33.JPG

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug35.JPG

 

 

 

 

2. Grease the threads, NOTE THAT this ensure smooth insertion & removal in future, BUT THE TIGHTNING TORQUE WILL BE VERY MUCH LOWER!!!.. If you do not adhere, you are gonna get it stuck in future!!!

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug34.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

Put in new plugs and tighten.....

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6-plug/r6-plug36.JPG

 

All fittings of components removed will be in reverse order to get your bike back in shape!!!!!!!

 

 

Cheers!!!

Thank You.

 

Regards,

AR2 Performance

 

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Posted

diy guru!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

'R6' RedlineRocketRedesignRazor sharpRevolutionaryReward 6.

http://content.wicms.com/shared/images/YAMAHA_Common_Images/Logos/yamaha_logo_red.gif

Posted

:giddy: :giddy: :giddy:

 

that's really a detailed guide for pple!! lucky for my bike not so tough.. hehe.. :angel:

[CENTER][IMG]http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t148/binkaz11/1_980549729l.jpg[/IMG] [I][B][FONT="Verdana"][SIZE="3"][COLOR="DarkRed"]Wooo HoOOoOooooo~[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][/B][/I][/CENTER]
Posted

nice diy post up, bro!

 

will attempt a spark plug change on my own soon.

 

mind i ask is it really necessary to do the spark plug gap measure? and where do you purchase ya denso iridium plugs?

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3007/2652402314_eb7483892a_o.jpg
Posted
:giddy: :giddy: :giddy:

 

that's really a detailed guide for pple!! lucky for my bike not so tough.. hehe.. :angel:

 

 

Not very detailed actually. Type/range of tools used were not mentioned. But its does vary alot coz... some don't fit into the small space available! :giddy:

Thank You.

 

Regards,

AR2 Performance

 

http://www.raceshield.com/images/raceshieldmotorbikekits.jpg

 

RACEshield URL - > http://www.raceshield.com

RACEshield FACEbook - > http://www.facebook.com/pages/RACEshield/119281238033

 

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Posted
nice diy post up, bro!

 

will attempt a spark plug change on my own soon.

 

mind i ask is it really necessary to do the spark plug gap measure? and where do you purchase ya denso iridium plugs?

 

Well... it might not be be necessary for general use. But since its out & its to my time and discreet.. why not. Make it optimal... The spec is there for a reason. Not many bikes shop does that...

 

the densos were from rowell road... 1 or 2 shops in front of FJT (the one that retails honda OEM parts). but I really cannot remember the name... :cheeky:

Thank You.

 

Regards,

AR2 Performance

 

http://www.raceshield.com/images/raceshieldmotorbikekits.jpg

 

RACEshield URL - > http://www.raceshield.com

RACEshield FACEbook - > http://www.facebook.com/pages/RACEshield/119281238033

 

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Posted

hahaha who says its difficult to diy?? its fckng difficult!! ahahha 2 thumbs up for you. tried diy my 954 last time and its really pain in the ass.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG-4077.jpg

Previous Rides: RXK 135, S4 Project Big 1, S4 Vtec1, ST1100 Pan European, Cbr954, K7 600, FJR1300 ABS, SilverWing FJS 400.

Current Rides: FIT 1.3 GF MoonRoof.

  • 2 months later...
Posted
hahaha who says its difficult to diy?? its fckng difficult!! ahahha 2 thumbs up for you. tried diy my 954 last time and its really pain in the ass.

 

Well it IS "pain in the ass" but with interest & passion, its kudoz that you dirtied yours to learn! :thumb:

Thank You.

 

Regards,

AR2 Performance

 

http://www.raceshield.com/images/raceshieldmotorbikekits.jpg

 

RACEshield URL - > http://www.raceshield.com

RACEshield FACEbook - > http://www.facebook.com/pages/RACEshield/119281238033

 

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Posted

Just want to raise a point that some other bikes have specific methods of changing spark plugs.

A TL1000R need not dismantle the airbox at all but need to bring down (not dismantle) the radiator, which in itself is a 30 mins job.

 

But nonetheless great DIY writeup for enthuathiasts here.

Posted

which also it would be better if u have ur very own DIY garage.:thumb:

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/5048/10304130.jpg

"But it ain't about how hard ya hit. It's about how hard you can get hit and keep moving forward. How much you can take and keep moving forward. Now if you know what you're worth then go out and get what you're worth."

Posted
Just want to raise a point that some other bikes have specific methods of changing spark plugs.

A TL1000R need not dismantle the airbox at all but need to bring down (not dismantle) the radiator, which in itself is a 30 mins job.

 

But nonetheless great DIY writeup for enthuathiasts here.

 

 

Wildcard.. I definitely agree with you. My previous older bikes were very much easier.

 

CBR400RR-J --> only needs my "tek koh" hands to slip past the top carburetor after tank lifting & air box removal.. 30 mins job too.... :angel:

 

VFR800A3 --> Onyl need to lift the tank pivot a little, else No need to remove anything at all !!!! BEST!:thumb:

 

 

 

Where can we find an air conditioned workshop to mess around in?

 

 

HHmm thats a tricky one.... even the motorcycle distributors' workshop is not air-conditioned. The best i can think of is pool 2~3 person, share the cost, "borrow/rent" a car grooming area during their non-working hrs :p Else, its push into your house for landed property. :cheeky:

Thank You.

 

Regards,

AR2 Performance

 

http://www.raceshield.com/images/raceshieldmotorbikekits.jpg

 

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RACEshield FACEbook - > http://www.facebook.com/pages/RACEshield/119281238033

 

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Posted

cbr1000 is not tat easy lo...need to lower the radiator somemore...due to position of the spark plugs...

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/ghost_04_/SIN%202009/4748b439-d86b-4bf3-a212-e1be01c6664c.jpg

stay calm and carry on...

Posted
bro where u get the tool to measure the gap??

 

The measuring tool is commonly known as feeler/thickness gauge, widely used in design/QC stage in most industrial places.

 

It is not my. I borrowed from a friend. He told me can be bought from most hardware stores (wu jing dian - chinese usual phrase of hardware store).

 

It need not be "denso" brand or L-shaped. The last one I used looks like the one pic have below (on a VFR) was "t-loaned" from my ex-company :angel: :angel:

 

Personally I prefer the L-shaped version. coz' the cross-section is round.

 

http://www.reluctantmechanic.com/images/thickness_gauge.jpg

Thank You.

 

Regards,

AR2 Performance

 

http://www.raceshield.com/images/raceshieldmotorbikekits.jpg

 

RACEshield URL - > http://www.raceshield.com

RACEshield FACEbook - > http://www.facebook.com/pages/RACEshield/119281238033

 

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Posted
cbr1000 is not tat easy lo...need to lower the radiator somemore...due to position of the spark plugs...

 

 

yea.. i agree.. cbr1000 so headache.. jus to chg plug need to remove so many things coz the bike compact..

Posted
The measuring tool is commonly known as feeler/thickness gauge, widely used in design/QC stage in most industrial places.

 

It is not my. I borrowed from a friend. He told me can be bought from most hardware stores (wu jing dian - chinese usual phrase of hardware store).

 

It need not be "denso" brand or L-shaped. The last one I used looks like the one pic have below (on a VFR) was "t-loaned" from my ex-company :angel: :angel:

 

Personally I prefer the L-shaped version. coz' the cross-section is round.

 

http://www.reluctantmechanic.com/images/thickness_gauge.jpg

 

that's the kind i looking for.. the pic u posted.. the one like u see doc they put on ur tongue kind.. i went to quite a few hardware stores they dont know what i talking abt when i say feeler gauge to measure thickness.. they give me vernier caliper... :giddy:

 

any idea which shop specifically can get? thanks :cheeky:

Lousy Noob Rider

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Elora Spark Plug Gauge

 

http://www.samstagsales.com/images/er193-8z.jpg

 

It has 0.4mm, 0.5mm, 0.6mm, 0.7mm, 0.75mm, 0.8mm, 0.9mm, 1.0mm

 

I have 2 sets bought from different shops, paid S$5 a set from the shops with postal code 208511 and 200635

 

Cheers:thumb:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/3-2.jpg

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