DIY Chain Oiler

[paiseh]

total cost:

 

Knobs x 2 = $2 ($1 each)

Dripers x 2 = $1 ($0.50 each)

tube x 4 metres = $2 ($0.50 each metre, but i used 1 metre only)

oiler bottle x 1 = $0.80

 

so total amount of money needed is only $4.30 + ur lubrication oil + drill + time

 

oh ya, b4 doing the oiler, have to clean chain first.

 

I used 300ml of diesel, clean the dirt let it settle for 5 mins, den clean off for an hour or so..den do oiler.

 

oiler takes abt 20 mins to complete. however, while tinking n trial n error, i used 40mins.

[paiseh]

its made of cheap plasctic material (meant to control air flow in a fish tank), open n close it frequently, the knob wears off and oil starts dripping. anyone of u here experienced such thing?

 

wat shld i do? any suggestions?

 

im considering this valve.

http://www.photoi.org/share/upload2/925246915/picture5.jpg

 

any suggestions?

[paiseh]

ok, i tot of a solution already. whenever i ride, i shall turn my oiler bottle the other way round to stop the oil from driping. i like the knob rather den the metal valve sounds troublesome? heck! for $5 wat more do i ask for?

[Limsteel]

Great setup...

 

But here's what I feel... if you placed the Dripper at the top, most (if not all the oil) will fling off at the front sprocket. Imagine the chain is travelling at a constant speed... At the rear end, the radius is bigger so the throwing power is lower.. at the front end, the diameter is much smaller the throwing force will be much much higher.

 

try imagaine again if you travelling at 90Km/hr coming to a gentle bend, you have no problem negotiating through maybe can accelerate some more... But will you do a 90degree turn at 90km/hrs?

 

As the Front sprock's Diameter is smaller the Centrifugal force is higher than the rear. Try to take a look, after a ride and see whether Oil is dripping at the front sprock. Placing the oiler below will ensure the oil will be able to lube the rear Sprocks. Spin off will be lesser compare to the front, any balance oil will be finally spin off at the front sprocks.

 

No doubt a good setup... with double applicator... Can I Copy and Mod abit and mount it under neath?

[paiseh]

i tried putting it below but it seems to be difficult.. hmm.. first time trying..

haha

 

will improve it again tmr i hope.

 

thanks! i took ur idea at first..

 

den when i walked past a fish shop today.. suddenly just went in and buy those stuff and do

[Limsteel]

Yes, I find that it will be more effective mounting it below...

 

When you lube the top, before the oil can flow down and lube the chain underside, it got fling off at the front sprock... Oiling below section will allow the oil to lube the interior section and while at the rear sprocks, the C.Force will force the oil to flow outward to the exterior (lubing what ever is in it's way) before the fling off.

 

so Follow what Scott oiler do, can never be wrong with proven successful marketed product.

[fooz]

wat limsteel says make sense..

u gota lube it frm the bottom...

 

perhaps can follow scotttoiler mtd of application.

they drip frm the bottom part of the sprocket near the teeth, den to the chain. centrifugal force will allow it to flow frm the inside to the ouside.

 

u can add a metal wire inside the tube to give it more shape, so u can drip it aniwhr ...

 

for me, my sprocket is not flat , it has a ridge , thus, i cant use the "drip-on-sprocket" mtd. i have to drip it on the chain just before it comes into contact with the teeth.

[Guest nE0]

I think it would be more efficient to drip the oil onto the sprocket directly, and let centrifugal force do the rest. Dripping oil onto the chain would work at very low speeds only, at higher speeds I'd imagine most of the oil will just crash into the very high speed moving chain and just fling off..

[paiseh]

ok, let me tink tink a bit...

[lindavw]

Wow u pple here can go japan be HRC engineers liaoz hahahaha.

correct. it is better to drip it straight to the sprocket than to the chain straight to the chain will cos super flings of the oil.

maybe u can try using vaccum to control the drip n sell at $30. surely a big hit... hahahahaha

[Limsteel]

Originally posted by nE0@Dec 22 2005, 01:56 PM

I think it would be more efficient to drip the oil onto the sprocket directly, and let centrifugal force do the rest. Dripping oil onto the chain would work at very low speeds only, at higher speeds I'd imagine most of the oil will just crash into the very high speed moving chain and just fling off..

Yes, my applicator is rubbing against the sproket until it fell off uring the pass week. I had to adjust it to drip directly onto my chain before the rear sprock.

 

Since the small tube fell off, the oiler is still working... I had to clean my swing arm after coming a week as the oil (fling out) is slowly flowing out of the chain guard to the swing arm.

[lindavw]

direct the dripper straight to the sprocket better. if u direct it to the rear sprocket between the chain, surely one day will drop off cos the chain is clack whenever we change gear it tightens abit so making the gap smaller n ezier for the dripper to get hooked n pulled away.

[S750WP]

My dual applicator touches each side of the sprocket, Loobman concept, the oil glide from the applicator to the sprocket and the oil migrate to the chain by C-force. The applicator is on my bike for more than a year and it never fling off.

 

Also there is minimum oil fling to the rim.

 

http://www.bikepics.com/pics/pics/suzuki-bandit400-93-bikepics-206402.jpg

[S750WP]

My next project is to use a on/off valve and regulator to replace the squeeze bottle so I will be able to on/off the flow with a flick and regulate the oil flow to the dual applicator.

[Guest kimderson]

Originally posted by S750WP@Dec 22 2005, 09:50 PM

My next project is to use a on/off valve and regulator to replace the squeeze bottle so I will be able to on/off the flow with a flick and regulate the oil flow to the dual applicator.

hahaha this is what i'm doing now.

Doing some testing before mounting it on the bike .hehehe

[S750WP]

Originally posted by kimderson@Dec 24 2005, 01:53 AM

hahaha this is what i'm doing now.

Doing some testing before mounting it on the bike .hehehe

Testing phase completed, already installed on my bike now. Similar to scott oiler, needs to prime the system first, fill the empty dispensary line with oil, then turn on the valve manually for the oil to flow when riding, after ride just off the valve.

[Guest kimderson]

Originally posted by S750WP@Dec 25 2005, 09:02 AM

Testing phase completed, already installed on my bike now. Similar to scott oiler, needs to prime the system first, fill the empty dispensary line with oil, then turn on the valve manually for the oil to flow when riding, after ride just off the valve.

now still searching for copper pipe O.D 2mm & I.D 1mm to be fix in the hose.

[rankief]

anyone wanna do one for me??

i know nuts abt it

[Mark Ng]

i was just thinking, did anybody tried this method before? for the oil to the sprocket, instead of cable ties, maybe get something like 'thick paper clips' then install on to both side of sprocket? & the Bottle to contain is to be made of hard material, not those soft plastic, something like those hard plastic small 'medication bottles'...

 

sorry for the 'chin chai' drawing. and my lousy explanation.

 

please take a look at the attachment.

 

[S750WP]

Originally posted by Mark Ng@Dec 25 2005, 01:34 PM

i was just thinking, did anybody tried this method before? for the oil to the sprocket, instead of cable ties, maybe get something like 'thick paper clips' then install on to both side of sprocket? & the Bottle to contain is to be made of hard material, not those soft plastic, something like those hard plastic small 'medication bottles'...

 

sorry for the 'chin chai' drawing. and my lousy explanation.

 

please take a look at the attachment.

 

I use a syringe for my oil bottle, the biggest which I can buy at pharmacy. I install a regulator, pneumatic type not the aquarium type because its far more better and reliable, at the oil delivery side.

 

The reason I regulate the oil flow at the delivery side, instead of regulating the air into the air tight syringe to control the oil flow, so that when I open the syringe to refill the oil, the oil at the delivery will not gush out and make a mess.

 

I remove the syringe plunger and replace it with a cap, test for air tight, by filling the syringe with water then leave overnight to see if water will leak out.

 

Then I drill a hole on the cap and install a adpator and connect a hose to a on/off hand valve, pneumatic type for reliability, again test for air tight with the hand valve turn off.

 

To prime the delivery tube, I fully open the regulator and turn on the hand valve. The oil will start to flow out very quickly to the applicator (using cable ties) and to the sprocket. Then I off the hand valve, oil flow will stop, you can see the delivery tube filled up with oil but it will not drip out.

 

After that I fully close the regulator and turn on the hand valve and slowly regulate the oil to the sprockets. Once its done I set the lock nut on the regulator.

 

When riding, just open the hand valve, regulated oil will start flowing immediately to the sprocket and chain, without need to wait for the oil to travel to reach the end of delivery tube. It work just like scottoiler. After ride just off the valve and oil will stop flowing.

 

Cost to built is higher because of the pneumatic parts, but then its more reliable. As you wont want to risk a faulty regulator or valve which result oil gushing out and spilling onto your tires.

 

I will review the set up and post a pic soon.

[Mark Ng]

Originally posted by S750WP@Dec 25 2005, 04:08 PM

I use a syringe for my oil bottle, the biggest which I can buy at pharmacy. I install a regulator, pneumatic type not the aquarium type because its far more better and reliable, at the oil delivery side.

 

The reason I regulate the oil flow at the delivery side, instead of regulating the air into the air tight syringe to control the oil flow, so that when I open the syringe to refill the oil, the oil at the delivery will not gush out and make a mess.

 

I remove the syringe plunger and replace it with a cap, test for air tight, by filling the syringe with water then leave overnight to see if water will leak out.

 

Then I drill a hole on the cap and install a adpator and connect a hose to a on/off hand valve, pneumatic type for reliability, again test for air tight with the hand valve turn off.

 

To prime the delivery tube, I fully open the regulator and turn on the hand valve. The oil will start to flow out very quickly to the applicator (using cable ties) and to the sprocket. Then I off the hand valve, oil flow will stop, you can see the delivery tube filled up with oil but it will not drip out.

 

After that I fully close the regulator and turn on the hand valve and slowly regulate the oil to the sprockets. Once its done I set the lock nut on the regulator.

 

When riding, just open the hand valve, regulated oil will start flowing immediately to the sprocket and chain, without need to wait for the oil to travel to reach the end of delivery tube. It work just like scottoiler. After ride just off the valve and oil will stop flowing.

 

Cost to built is higher because of the pneumatic parts, but then its more reliable. As you wont want to risk a faulty regulator or valve which result oil gushing out and spilling onto your tires.

 

I will review the set up and post a pic soon.

. . .

 

Very interesting. . . let me know when ya done ya...

 

[S750WP]

Originally posted by Mark Ng@Dec 26 2005, 12:19 AM

. . .

 

Very interesting. . . let me know when ya done ya...

 

Its already done, will post of the concept.

[ferst]

guys.. thinkin of installin the rabbit oiler.. but eversince i saw this thread, im waitin for the results of ur custom oilers.. if the price is reasonable and it werx, i dun payin a lil to get it fixed on my bike.. so keep on your trials, and update the results k!

[Limsteel]

Dude, I started this thread to allow other to compare and use the idea here to DIY their own oiler.

 

So give it a try, Hands-on is about putting in your effort (that why it is call DUY)and saving $$$

[paiseh]

Originally posted by Limsteel@Dec 28 2005, 03:56 PM

Dude, I started this thread to allow other to compare and use the idea here to DIY their own oiler.

 

So give it a try, Hands-on is about putting in your effort (that why it is call DUY)and saving $$$

i got the whole idea from u DIY