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Posted
thanks guys! =P

 

nice bike bro. i am just curious, can your fz headlight pass inspection?

 

i have seen s4 with headlights that looks like rxz or suzuki type, do they have any difficulty passing inspection?

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Posted
If you guys are going for and outting or for petrol to M`sia please inform me cos i also quite keen to meet you guys to chit chat and exchange views on Revo bike ...

 

Zzzzzz... You sure or not? I've posted petrol runs twice already and both times no one wants to go. :(

 

bro' date=' i go to unique.. he mentioned my TPS spoilt. and after replace it, my idling is back to normal..[/quote']

Thanks for sharing, @a'fi

How much did they charge for the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)? It's an aftermarket TPS, right? Do yo know the brand?

 

nice bike bro. i am just curious, can your fz headlight pass inspection?

 

i have seen s4 with headlights that looks like rxz or suzuki type, do they have any difficulty passing inspection?

It's not about the light "style" but more about the light beam. If you fit good light which provide a good spread and position of the light beam, there's no reason why LTA would not approve. As such, most original lights from another bike that can be installed onto S4s would pass. Do note that it is important that the replacement light assemble can be adjusted for height because this is one of the first things they measure at inspection centres.

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted

Problem is the engine oil they have here is the VOLTRONIC brand. Made in germany. I think it's more for car engine. 10w-40. And disadvantages of using this engine oil in a motorcycle?

 

Don't use car engine oil for motorcycle cos will cause clutch-slip problem.

Always use motorcycle engine oil.

Yamaha RXZ, Kawasaki ZX KR150, Yamaha Spark135, Honda CB400 REVO NC42, Suzuki DRZ400SMK8, Aprilia RS125, Suzuki GSXR600K9, Honda RS150R

Click on the bike models for Information/Servicing/Maintenance on Kawasaki KR150, Honda CB400 Revo, Suzuki DRZ400SM and Suzuki GSXR

 

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Posted
Waaahhhh. Nice mod to yr ride bro. Maybe left the rims and inverted forks to top it all off. Haha. And also brake / clutch pumps. :D

 

Love yr ride bro.

 

Ride safe!

 

Hey bro, how much you did your grounding eh?

Posted (edited)
Don't use car engine oil for motorcycle cos will cause clutch-slip problem.

Always use motorcycle engine oil.

 

Not true. This theory has been officially debunked by yours truly recently.

 

I've been running Mobil 1 fully synthetic for cars since Jan 2012. Just changed the oil yesterday after about 7,000km. The oil is still good for at least another 3,000km but I decided to change because I'm going for 2 long trips this week: Leaving for KL tonight and Langkawi Charity Ride on June 7. If not for these long rides, I would have run the oil until at least 10,000km.

 

This is my first time running car oils on my bike, so I'm "experimenting" with the mileage. I will be increasing the mileage over a few oil changes to see how much I can stretch the usage. Next change will be at 10,000km.

 

I have a friend who rides a Busa and a Spec 3. After reading various write-ups debunking the myth, he was the one who finally convinced me that it's ok to use car oils. Both of his bikes run on Mobil 1 and his mileage for oil change is 25,000km! He has been doing this for his Spec 3 since day 1 when he bought the bike brand new. It's now logged about 200k+ km and has not developed any issues at all. No valve clearance and etc.

 

Of course, I'm a bit more conservative than he is so I'll go for early oil changes. I'll be happy with 10k-12k km oil change intervals.

 

I have not experienced any clutch slip with the oil I used. Engine runs smoothly throughout. See attached picture of the oil test I did. This is a comparison of the viscosity of the used oil against new oil by looking at how much the oil drop spreads and gets absorbed by a sheet of A4 paper. Notice that the oil spread of the used oil at 7,000 km is about the same as the new oil. This shows that the oil has not been broken down too much from new and is still good. Feeling the oil on the fingers doesn't give a "watery"/light feeling and it also doesn't smelling burnt or sulfurous.

 

I bought the Mobil 1 fully synthetic whenever Giant have it on sale, which is quite often. 4 litres costs $79-$85 when on sale compared to about $110 normal retail price. This is already a 35% discount over, say $33/ltr for Motul. Bike shops and oil companies also have conditioned bikers to change oil more frequently so they can make more money from us. Change intervals as low as 3,000km have even been suggested, which I believe is hogwash and pure daylight robbery! Say you use Motul and change oils at 5,000km; that would cost $216 for 10,000km. Compare this to about $64 for my Mobil 1 and you'll get the idea...

 

It is true there were clutch slip issues about 10-15 years ago when fully synthetic oils for cars contained "energy efficient" additives. This is how the rumours started years ago and oil companies latched on to maximise profit. They then started bottling motorcycle specific oils which are priced to much more than car oils. However, you can find many good oils from the major oil companies that do not contain "Energy Efficient" additives. These oils such as Mobil 1 are suitable for bikes.

 

@StrongBow

I wouldn't recommend that using that oil brand. Not all oils are created equal in terms of quality. If you want to use car oils, go for Mobil 1 instead. You can already save so much with this oil, so no need to risk damaging your bike engine with some untested oil.

 

IMG_1107.jpg

 

Motorcycle Motor Oil

Edited by ramsnake
Added webpage with more explanation

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted

Since ramsnake has spoken and his e more technical know how i guess it is safer for me to speak. :)

 

I ve been using car EO for my s4 spec 1 or e past 6 years. Reason being i ve lobang. And i ve close confidants who r in e ool manufacture business. This group includes r&d, ops, logistics pple in e oil production and they produce many of e products u c on e shelves in sg. Both car and bike. And many brands too including some of e more famous automobile branded oils and some of e specialize oils like agip. (i use agip mostly)

 

I am not a techie in e oil field thus only repeating some of e info which r not common knowledge and ramsnake has also mention.

 

Years ago it is true tat motor and bike oil r very different. 1 of e main reason is e additives use.

 

Fast forward years later, with advances in r&d and technology. Now a days, additives ve been "improved" to e extent tat "often" both car and bike oil uses e same additives. Reason being e additives ve evolved into a composite type which contains properties required by e different recipes.

 

So in e past cars required properties A, bikes require properties B. So they will use additives A and B respectively. Now becoz additives ve been improve such tat they can contain both properties A and B thus both car/bike oil will use e same additives.

 

If u think about it, this is actually logically becoz now e business only require 1 set of production line, process, procedures, formulas, etc to produce this additive thus it spells a combination of efficiency, cost savings and other benefits.

 

But after saying all e above, i am not suggesting u to go out and buy e cheapest car eo out there. But do note tat oil technology has changed in e past 2 decades. This no sharing of oil is a old concept which is safe to follow. But it does not mean newer concepts r forbidden.

 

But still try at ur own risk. I do it becoz i ve e know how pple advising me. I ve already stated becoz tat i am not a technical rider. Meaning i only ride but everything else i dunno much. :)

 

Ps: some of e things i hear will surprise u guys. Lol. If ever got chance meet up I'll share. ^^

 

Ps: my s4 spec 1 use car oil for 6 years no problems with clutch. Not sure whether previous owner got change anot. Not sure also if stock clutch is suppose to last more than 10 years or not. :)

 

I service eo every 3 mth using a variety of oil. Almost every service is different oil. ^^ but i would say maybe 30 ~ 40% use agip.

 

My mileage in 3 mrh is roughly 3 to 5k. Am i changing too often? Lol

 

Ps3: how do u guys decide how often to change eo?

 

Ps4: in e past e difference between car and bike eo is real. It wasnt a scam although it is true tat bike oil is price higher becoz e quantity produce is lower than cars, thus e effort is higher.

Posted

When buying engine oils, look for the API Seal and make sure it doesn't have "Energy Conserving" stated on the seal.

 

API Seal Energy Conserving.jpg

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted

@danielling1981

Thanks for sharing! :thumb:

No need to be so modest lah... You actually know more than most :)

 

"I service eo every 3 mth using a variety of oil. Almost every service is different oil. ^^ but i would say maybe 30 ~ 40% use agip.

 

My mileage in 3 mrh is roughly 3 to 5k. Am i changing too often?"

This mileage is ok if you're using mineral oil.

If you are using fully synthetic, I think this is too early. Suggest you stretch it to 7k and see for yourself. Also try Mobil 1. Like I said, the guy I know runs his on Mobil 1 for 25k!

 

"But after saying all e above, i am not suggesting u to go out and buy e cheapest car eo out there. But do note tat oil technology has changed in e past 2 decades. This no sharing of oil is a old concept which is safe to follow. But it does not mean newer concepts r forbidden."

Yes, don't go and buy some cheapo oil that claims to do everything. Stick to the major oil brands and you'll be fine. Avoid "Energy Conserving" as in the pic in previous post.

 

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted

@ramsnake. I only just noe some theory and mainly logical reasoning la. Mostly e info is from my 2 best fren google and wiki.

 

For me all e oil is always fully syn but i dun get to choose brand. Lol. Maybe i should change my service to 6 mths since my mthly comes to around 2k with buffer.

 

In e past every 3 mth change eo. Every 6 mth change filter and plug. Every yr let e shop do wat they like. Lol

Posted

I did some research. I found out that the engine oil i used is actually for motorcycle. ;) anyone use the brand voltronic? Sry i using phone. Can't provide pictures. If u google search for voltronic images. The can bottle for the engine oil is really familiar and has been around since i was young. It is a german brand! Haha. Anyone else seen it before?

 

I read the s4 engine oil discussions. I learnt quite abit! Thanks too ramsnake n daniel too!

 

The rating for engine oil. For example 10w-40. I need u guys to help clarify abit. :)

From what i found from wikipedia n. correct me if im wrong!

10w means viscosity of the EO when it's cold. Correct?

"40" means viscosity of EO at running temperature. Right? Hehe

 

But im not sure. Smaller the value to more viscous or less viscous?

If compare "10" to "20" which one is more viscous(gao)? Haha

 

2nd question. If i usually ride relax. Cruise around 100 on my pulsar. (7krpm) maybe some drag on the first few gears due to need of acceleration. Also go to around (5-6krpm) which kind of EO would be most suitable? I understand that thin EO more suitable for racing n thick EO more suitable for relax riding but will cause some sort of drag on engine n loss of power

Posted

Actually for e numbers of e oil 10W-40, etc. If i remember correctly, in a 1 season type of country like sg (meaning no winter) we only need to see the right side number. 10W-40 can also be read as from 10 to 40 where 10 is e viscosity at low temperature.

 

So in sg it is ok to use between 40 to 60. Viscosity is also similar to wat we call thickness of e oil.

 

For ur query of wat oil to use. As long as u.r using e bike for normal usage actually can dun bother.

 

Only when eg: u track or winter country then need to consider. Track i think need higher viscosity and also special additives for performance. Same as y some pple wan to pump vpower. :)

Posted
nice bike bro. i am just curious, can your fz headlight pass inspection?

 

i have seen s4 with headlights that looks like rxz or suzuki type, do they have any difficulty passing inspection?

 

can pass bro. asked them already, cause its original mah.

11/07/2008 - Class 3

26/02/2009 - Class 2B

18/03/2009 - Yamaha TZM 150 ( FT 95**R )

04/08/2011 - Class 2A

19/08/2011 - Honda Cb400SF Revo ( FBF 5**J )

 

http://i970.photobucket.com/albums/ae186/thatguyhaikal/294889_306525876030156_100000182383201_1471277_682172925_n-1-2.jpg

Posted
@ramsnake

 

Send you a PM ...

 

Thanks, Arlwynn. Will contact you when I return from the Langkawi International Charity Ride

 

I think its stand throttle positioning system.. I change it for $180

Good for you! I think it's a reasonable price for the TPS. One of our bro here faced the same issue with his bike. Unfortunately for him, Boon Siew told him the he can't just change the TPS and they changed the entire throttle body for him. If I'm not mistaken, they charged him $1.2k for it!

 

@SparkerS1 Could you post this info in the FAQ thread so future owners would know where to go? Thks.

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted
bro your mobil 1 oil is u change yourself or give shop change?

 

Though I know how to and will DIY if necessary, I send my bike to a shop for the oil change job. I've got a very friendly mech who does it for me FOC. I just bring my oil and filter to him, light him a cigarette or buy him a teh tarik... :cool:

 

Sending my bike to the shop saves me the trouble of taking the used oil to a mototiam or petrol station for safe disposal. I used to pay about $10 to another shop for oil change with my own oil.

 

If anyone does intend to change engine oil yourself, please be environmentally responsible. Do not throw the used oil down the drain or into some rubbish bin. Get hold of a spare bottle and send the used oil to the workshops for them to dispose off.

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

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