Bajaj Pulsar Lovers 2007

[noleemeats]

hey thanks for ur reminder br0

 

So ur EO changin and stuff, how much u pay for the serving?

 

Bro, bout the eo, u must check regularly cos if ur travelling ard 90 to 100km/h all the time it finishes fast, i'm currently using fuchs maxima 15/ 50 its 23 bucks. the best so far...

[Guest unforgiven]

duplicate post..

[Guest unforgiven]

Meetup Session Cum Supper

 

Location: JOhor or Singapore

 

Date: 17/8/07

 

Time: 8pm

 

Those who interested please put your name and contact and vote the Location.

 

Johor Bahru (supper cum Topup)

 

1) Adriel78 82888807

2) Night_hawk 93393811

3)

 

Singapore (Any location)

 

1) Night_hawk 93393811

2)unforgiven-82338628

[Guest unforgiven]

Hi guys,..i need volunteers to collect all the info,tips,mod,advise regarding bajaj pulsar.Each person take 15 page can??All ur effort will be greatly appreciate by all bajaj pulsar owner .

 

 

Unforgiven page 01-15

Adriel78 page 16-30

night-hawk page 31-45

roadrunner71 page 46-60

pulsarbee page 61-75

spai_duhz page 76-90

totalpet page 91-105

 

Anymore volunteers??paiseh....??

Hopefully this small project can be completed before 20th August which is next week Mon(10 days more)

 

Can u guys do it???

[Guest unforgiven]

duplicate post..

[Guest unforgiven]

duplicate post...

[Lanzer]

 

Nice Pulsar spoiler!

[Lanzer]

 

A Modified Pulsar

[Lanzer]

Pulsar with Flashlights?

[Lanzer]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hr9sCI_PZV8&mode=related&search=

 

Pulsar with H.I.D.

[Guest unforgiven]

Originally Posted by outspoken

hey,im riding pulsar now.to me personally its a good comfortable transport bike.if ur thinking of speed,power etc then i guess u will be disapointed.maximun speed noted in the manual is 127km/hr which i guess is more than good enuf for sg road.

 

I got to disagree it is uncomfortable to ride cos depends on wat bike u have been riding.i have been riding rxz so just change to pulsar and feeling is more or less the same expect of course much heavier due to the super big tank.Furthermore the tyre is bigger so more comfortable riding,smooth.better for bigger size pple.

 

full tank 18L with 3L reserve tank.during my running in one full tank can go more than 700km almost 800km so i assume after running in it should catch around 500-600km.Topping up i think better go JB cos sure worth every single cent going there cos down here topping up can cost more than $30bucks.E.O is using 1L only so i guess better use good E.O.

 

I bought the bike not at universal but those bike shops at alexandra.most of them carry pulsar also but i think they get the bike from universal since universal is the main agent.i suggest if anybody wants to get it then dun just buy it straight from there,look around and check out the prices.it may save u some cash actually.

 

I bought the bike less than 6K but mostly depends on ur age due to the insurance.

Bike have 4 colours.Black,silver,red and blue.Personally i got myself a silver but black is so very nice.

 

Engine sound is totally different.different pple have comment differently.I personally like the sound rather than rxz which is loud and irritating but some pple

dun like the sound at all so better check it out too.

 

4 stroke bike.2 spark plug with electric start and kick start.no coolant only air cooled.anyway all bikes got its pros and cons,i dun think there's any bike which is 100% good only if not there wun be a newer version,upgrade of that bike model.At the end of the day,just know that ur the one riding the bike not someone else so make sure ur happy with the bike including pros and cons before realli buying the bike.

 

Enjoy!

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by ahbao999

new paper write:

 

1 litre can click 50km ....

 

wah, imagine 18litre is equal to 900km per tank ....

 

can last for two weeks ...

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by outspoken

Anyway just for info,i have check with RXZ speed and RPM and found that there is a difference between Pulsar and RXZ.difference is about 10km/h meaning RXZ is riding at 100km/hr and pulsar is only 90km/hr.

 

Just finish my running in,i tried 110km/hr....slight vibration but main concern is rpm is already 8.5 and nearing the red zone(9 is already red).not sure about the rest of the pulsar..any input??...anyway i need to change E.O. so maybe after change will check again..

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by outspoken

If im not wrong, 1st party should cost you more than $1k even the cheapest.cos for me 25 cheapest first party is $900 so yours should be more. 3rd party i dun know but if you are getting this bike then better get 1st party insurance for the first year cos new bike best recommended to get first party to cover everything just to avoid any mishap.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by hazian03

Hi, I just bought the Pulsar. Received it on Friday. Took it up North on Saturday. Rode it up to Kulai and back, just to help in the running in. It was about 66 km. Topped up my tank before coming back in. Amazing 1.1L. So that made it 1 L = 60 km.

 

I rode at a constant 65 km/h. Did not want to stress the engine. It was very rough in the beginning, 1st gear was like riding a horse. Cannot blame it, this is a very torque bike. To wards the end of my trip, the 1st gear was very smooth. I guess it has to do with the running in.

 

Overall, the ride was very smooth, engine performed beyond my expectation. And I believe that over time (after running in) I can increase my speed and still get the same fuel consumption.

 

Meet a Malaysian on Friday; he has completed his running in, 3000 km. He needs to ride to and from work abt 60km each day. Said he rides a 110km/hr. and it able to achieve 40km/lit. So that he only needs to top up every ten days. He is very happy with it.

 

I do not think that I will ride at that speed all the time considering the lower speed limit of 90km /h. So I believe that I can get abt 55km/l or 60km/l. considering that I am an easy rider compared to Malaysian who always rides very hard and fast.

 

I will keep everyone updated and I hope that this thread will continue to attract comments and suggestion and more Bajaj riders will join in the post

 

Originally Posted by Newbie05

Hi everyone,

 

I?m a new 2B rider who?s looking around for my 1st ever bike. The Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTS-I certainly caught my attention.

 

The Pulsar must be one of the heaviest 2B bikes around. With a dry weight of 137kg (correct?) and 18-litre tank, I suppose the bike will weigh about 155kg when fully loaded with fuel. That?s as good as a 250cc bike! This can be quite intimidating for a small-sized new 2B rider like me (1.63m, 55kg). I?m worried the bike might be too heavy for me to handle during cornering and U-turning.

 

Can those who own the Pulsar comment on its handling? It?ll be even better if u can tell me your ht & wt as well. By the way, what?s the Pulsar?s seat height?

 

Thanks.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuVespa

The 80km is from the time u switch your fuel lever to reserve till tank empty. The bike will go to reserve when your fuel gage needle is sumwer in the middle of the red zone. And btw, as u all will notice the fuel gage needle will only move from the 'F' after travelling abt 350-450km depending on speed. And after tt the needle will move down faster....and even faster when it reach the 'petrol pump' symbol. I noticed tt travelling at 60km/h, the needle from tt symbol to reserve the km covered will be 100km. Hence in jizzz;

 

 

'Petrol Pump' symbol to reserve------100km

Reserve to empty tank-------80km

Based on speed of 60km/h

 

 

Well just FYI

Can time ur JB topup with perfection

 

Or yah....The fuel gage needle will be at its TRUE position when u turn the ignition on....when the bike start moving it wont be true

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pauche

one cylinder, 2 plugs firing concurrently.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by paiseh

HID operates at a much lower temperature den normal halogen bulbs.

 

the things tat will melt would be the wirings. HOWEVER, high tension cables are used (comes together with the HID set), so, not to worry.

 

and hor ivan, sorry, cant let u try. too many response from ppl wanting to try my bike. i decided i better state my stand b4 she becomes a prostitute.

 

Shes mine.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by paiseh

for the after market parts for the bikes u have mentioned, currently i have no idea which i will source for them after i run in my bike. however, original parts such as airfilter etc are cheap, prices comparable to CBR150 parts

 

the rear suspension is adjustable, a total of 5 clicks, im now on 2ndclick.

fron suspension is abit too soft for my liking and they are non adjustable

 

i have yet to collect my bike manual from universal which i will do so later or tmr. but from wat i see, the engine is component is very simple. one look, i know i can change the batt, the air filter, the plugs and eng oil.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by paiseh

I was reluctant to state the problems at first becoz i wanted find out why.

 

1. The moving off for the Pulsar is very very rough, not smooth at all the first gear transmission. Prior to that, it makes ur handle bar turn left and right quite a fair bit and therefore, u cant squeeze traffic with half clutch technic. bear in mind that after the first gear transmission, the rest of the gear change is SUPERB. very smooth.

 

Reason: this bike is manufactured to save petrol and hence the moving off tends to vibrate n jerk alot (partly due to its heavy weight given its 180cc)

 

2. gear crash is very frequent no matter at which gear, so long as u r down shifting, gear crashes, and after the crashing part, release ur clutch further u hear a nice huming eng brake.

 

Reason: this bike is not built to down shift gear at rpm above 5k rpm. gear tends to crash (sometimes it wont happen) and also, to stop this gear crash thing to hapen, down shift gear and hold on ur clutch for at least 1 - 2 sec b4 releasing clutch to enable eng brake. maybe this bike is quite different from wat i used to ride, hence it is better not to over rev this bike.

 

Overall performance for this bike: 8/10. if not for the gear crash and moving off part, its 9.5/10. anyway, this is the trade off for such a bike with great fuel consumption. overall i love this bike.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by hazian03

Hi

 

I have achieved this reserve at 650km, Reserve another 80km. But by 50km I will pump. So far Pump in JB. Suvespa is right, 725km on the full tank.

 

I shall clarify on the tank..... it is a 18L, 15 L in the main area + 2L in reserve + 1L in the sump(unusable). Checked it out from the manual. My current mileage has dropped to abt 40km/L. Manual says that you need to ride in the green zone to achieve max fuel efficiency, 40-50km/h. Not practical in Singapore roads, so as we speed up the fuel efficiency drops.

 

The tank and gauge, suvespa is also right on this. the gauge drops very fast after the half way mark. But then again there is no bike that can give this much of mileage and power as well.....

 

I now own two bikes, the pulsar and the super four. My wife rides the super four. She now insist that I must sell off the super four and get another Pulsar for her....

 

So guys I let you decide how good this bike is......

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by paiseh

stock for newer models of pulsar now comes wif sports rim but not tubeless. need to change tyres urself. however, im now using the stock tyres, quite nice for conering and straight road. keke

 

i pump 220 front and 250 rear. by right is 200 front n 220 rear.

 

 

 

ABT the fuel tank capacity, i read the manual, total 18litres. but ah.. when i got my bike from universal, they already pumped between 1litre to 2 litres of petrol for me. Immediately after pushing my bike out, i pumped another 18.7litres. shiok~

 

Now i already travelled 704km and its slightly less den half tank.

my riding habits,

 

1. every 2-3k rpm change gear, max 5.5k rpm (occasionally)

2. riding at 70 - 80km/hr, max 90km/hr (once), 85km/hr (occasionally)

3. still running in.

4. after running in i will still ride like this. i love the smooth accerleration after the first gear.. superb.

 

I hope i can hit 1000km with this full tank. Maybe im the first?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuVespa

I manage to get 945KM travelling at 60km/h or at 4k RPM....Can get more if I don have to fetch GF....She always late so must chong

Hence mileage obtained was 945/18 = 52.5KM/L.

 

Had EO change 2day and this is the signal for me to blast......Full throttle at 120km/h...Handling stable, exhaust sounds angry, IU cover makes a lot of noise...and cannot go further than 120 even on a downhill....and theres a feeling tt i m travelling faster than 120.....Maybe need big bike to clock and compare ?

 

Well it is a gd bike......I trade my rvf for a PULSAR!!!

 

How many of us here have 2A/2 licenced or very experienced 2B rider?

I think, I think only huh, totally new riders will have longer learning curve on this bike....Well just my no cents worth

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by hazian03

Talk abt the problems abt the first gear, YES it is very jerky, but not because the bike is heavy. It is just to torquey(powerful). After you add on a box, and put something heavy in the boxand have a pillion to sit with U. Then you will notice that it does not jerk at 1st gear. In fact it is very smooth at all gears even with lots of power at 80-90km/h.

 

After runnig in for sometime, the jerkyness is less, but for going in between traffic, I will use 2nd gear, but have to clutch in frequently.

 

i WILL HAVE TO TRY MY MILEAGE again coz I only got 720km on my tank. The newer version has lower mileage per tank because of the gearing ratio was adjusted so that the lower gears were more powerful. Hence to achieve the higher speeds have to trottle more. My actual mileage is 43km/L. but then again I need to try again.

 

I heard that after running in your mileage per litre of fuel will improve, Any comments on this? Maybe have to adjust my riding style but then again I am already very satisfied, I am only going in to JB twice (2X) in a month, when previously I had to go in 9X. You guys just calculate the difference esp with the toll, the distance I have to travel and my time that I have saved.

 

The difference is that what I save on the above I can spend on my monthly installment. So I already am saving $ 250 off directly from my other bikes installment.

 

I was at the chkpt on my way back from JB. Even the ICA and CISCO officers on duty recognised the bike and were talking big abt this bike. I had a tough time telling them that I had to go. Anyway I believe that some of them are already thinking of getting one.

 

And does Anyone here Know anyone who wants to buy a Super four?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by paiseh

i just dismantled my bike earlier on. took off the seats, side covers, headlamp casing etc etc.

 

becoz the headlight is not bright enough which i tink it is dangerous during the nite, i tilted my headlamp casing upwards by roughly 2degrees. there is a screw, turn clockwise to tilt the headlamp casing upwards.

 

the bulb is a HS1's bulb specs. but it is in a H4's bulb design. so technically, it is a H4 bulb with HS1 spec. 35watt for high beam and low beam

 

I changed to a H4 halogen bulb with 55(low)/60(high)watt. this might cause melting of the original socket which is plastic. hence i changed the socket to a fibre socket to prevent melting. the wires that are there are good enough for 50/60watt rating bulbs.

 

P/S: the higher the wattage, the brighter the headlight. color temp (eg 4200K, 5000K, 7000K) measures the color of the light and not the brightness of the light which most ppl mixed up with. u can use 100watt bulb but original wiring harness might not be able to hold the power. for normal halogen bulbs, filament burns yellow no matter wat color temp rating it has. it is the coating of the bulb tat makes the light appear white.

 

I have tried installing HID into this bike. However, the HID keeps flickering and i tink the voltage of the battery is not stable.. need to explore more into the voltage of this bike. will update again.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by paiseh

u can visit http://www.limbat.com.sg to see where the location is

 

by the way, this coming sat 11am i will be at limbat's shop.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuVespa

It seems like dis sat@limbat is a good time for bajaj owner to congregate..Just a tot

 

My top up activities....(base on 18L of active petrol)

 

1 17.76l reservR@872km mileage(MLG)--48.44km/l.....Speed 80 km/h

2 20.00l R@775km MLG--43.06.....Speed 90 km/h

3 18.09l R@720km MLG--40.00.....Speed 100 km/h

4 18.64l R@825km MLG--45.83.....Various speed but more to 60 km/h

5 18.64l R@945km MLG--52.50.....Speed 90% of the time 60 km/h

6 18.64l R@880km MLG--48.89.....Various speed but more to 60 km/h

7 18.69l R@891km MLG--49.50.....Various speed but more to 60 km/h

8 19.27l R@NOT YET RESERVE......

 

Hazian have u established ur reserv...One way to do it is to top up immediately when it go to reserve...The petrol pumped in should be your active petrol.....I did this and it showed 18.0something L....The .0something L is bcos it took me abt 4km to reach the petrol station.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by sgren

Though I don't own a Pulsar, I'll try to answer this for you.

 

The side stand light should only lights up when the bike is turn on. It serve no purpose if the bike is properly parked and not turn on, right?

 

It is very dangerous to ride with the side stand NOT lifted up properly. Imagine when one is cornering left with the side stand not lifted up, what will happen?

 

I ever see some old bike with side stand half dangling (maybe due to lack of maintenance) but the rider seem not to bother at all, or they simply not aware of the danger.

 

During 2A/2 lessons in riding school, they require you to lift up the side stand before mounting the bike. It's immediate failure if not followed, both riding lesson and TP test.

 

You may not see the need for this signal NOW, if you happened to forget to do it once, then you'll realised how useful this safety device is. I know because I experienced before.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roadrunner71

Also available at:

 

Aljunied Motors

Guan Hoe Cheong

CSTK Pte Ltd

S1 Motoring

Meng Motors

Hup Hin

Wing Yap Motors

New Union

Heng Motors

Soon Hin

Albert Motors

MM Motors

 

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by hazian03

I feel that the whole deal abt the Bajaj is abt the feel of the ride and the excellent fuel consumption. I have kept the bike in stock condition for so many reason.

 

goofrider> The Pipe is one of the reasons why the bike has so good fuel consumption. By changing it you just going to make things bad. To increase the speed there is another way. by changing the back sprocket. You will get better speed with less power. But as it is with this bike, There is already alot of power to it.

 

Mistake on the part of the chain guard. The total cover that the bike has, protect the chain from dirt, dust and rain. So that will mean that the chain does not need oiling so often, wear and tear is reduced and it will not rust fast. Your chain will last so much longer. So it will better to change it back to the original chain guard. After all bad chain condition will make your fuel consumption worse

 

As for the headlight, if you want more stronger lights, you may go to Lambart. There is a rider in this thread that has done it at his place. Website mentioned in this thread. Look it up.

 

I know of some Super Four Riders changing their Headlights to the Bajaj, they say it is looks so cool. So why change to something that doesnt look as cool as what you have.

 

Anyway your bike is not a 15 L edition, it is infact a 18 L edition. 15 L is up to reserve, 3 L more in reserve. You should be able to travel abt 80km at abt speed 80km/h. I had just pumped at JB filled in abt 17.4 L already in reserve. The 20 L edition was only available for the first few bikes in Singapore, After which it is no longer made available, So no spare tanks in the markets.

 

Think carefully before you change anything as, you may lose out on the great value of this bike. I have found out Everthing matters on this bike. It has been designed to keep our cost low so that we dont have to spend much on the bike after purchasing it.

 

 

Originally Posted by GoofRider

Judd>>> Bro, sorry lah if me wanna change the headlight also, i think i will keep the original ones. anyway i help u ask. The head fairing cost $65. with lights as in one set it will cost $130 at Uni. hope this helps

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dean_46

Bro it's rite in the front page got advertise some more

 

356 alexandra Rd S'pore 159949

62782029/62727056

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by GoofRider

should be able to but i'm not sure. u can give a ring to them. their number is 6479 3126 or 6479 0326

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by sgren

I'm sorry that this is OFF TOPIC.

 

However, I want to say that:

 

pap is NOT the government! Pls diffentiate the party and the Organs of State. The government is supposed to serve the whole of Singapore be it pap or opposition ward. And every now and then, pap threaten that if you don't vote for them, your estate will be left to rot. Is this the kind of party you're going to vote for?

 

pap took away your right to withdraw ALL your CPF when you retired! B'cos they DON'T TRUST you, a 55 years old adult to handle your own money. But you have to TRUST them to handle your money on your behalf.

 

pap gives priority to foreigners when it comes to jobs and education!

 

How many chinese (from china) and indian (from india) students study in nus and ntu, how many study in jc and poly with fees paid by the government? Those S'porean who can't get into local institutions either have to go overseas for higher education or settled with a private school degree risking whether their cert will be recognised by their employer.

 

Our people are considered inferior to those so called Foreign Talent whom the government opened the gate to welcome every "tom, d ick and harry" into our country.

Do you really believe ALL these people are really talented? If that is the case, then our education system has FAILED very terribly.

 

If the PM want us to believe that the pap government really cared for the people, then the government should give out the Progress package every year, though in smaller sum, and not only until election time. Why share the fruits only during election time?

 

Do you know that a minister's "honest" mistake costs the government $388 million paid to Singtel just b'cos the ministry didn't bother to check with the IRAS. Do we need a scholar to make such an error.

http://it.asia1.com.sg/newsarchive/0..._20020511.html

http://it.asia1.com.sg/newsdaily/news004_20020909.html

 

pap mp can sleep in parliament

some pap mp took up directorship for companies, you think he serve you whole heartedly?

 

and many more...

 

Think before you draw the cross on your ballot paper!

 

But it's up to you, if you're prepared to be screwed by the pap for the next 5 years, go ahead and vote for them and I wish you good luck for the next 5 years.

 

Many millions are going to be spent on upgarding of pap wards and one man said if you don't donate, the kidney patients will suffer!

 

I am pro Singapore, just that I don't buy the arguments of the pap. How to trust the party that promised you the Swiss Standard of Living and More Good Years.

 

More good years, for the pap

As for the rest, you die your business.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by GoofRider

Yes inclusive off installation at Universal Motor.

 

and are you selling off your S4 headlights? *wink*

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by waadee

so how peeps?? mon.. iam working mornin. can meet up after my shift

 

and also i had cut my fairing to make the lines look clean, but it took away alot of plastic and it looks kind of boring from the ront. but from the side it looks ok

 

 

Originally Posted by paiseh

abt the lubrication for the chain, i have observed it closely for 2 months already. originally chain is lub-ed with greese and u will need to greese it once every 2 months or every 5000km which ever comes first. greese very cheap , $3+ for a bottle. can last for more den 10 lubs.

 

im not worried abt greese being dirty or wat coz this bike has upper and lower chain guard. man i love this bike!

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by waadee

wahhh... got form small club eh?? i also got to declare that with my odd shift patterns i cant really make it some times. but iam not yet a family man hehehehe.

 

ok lah mayb we cant meet up but we can use this forum and pulsar tread to introduce pulsar to new riders and help existing riders with their pulsar problem right??

 

and i did some calculation on my current fuel consumption and accordin to my rough calculation... i end up with 40km/l .... considering a few factors like

 

- my weight

- bigger rear tyres

- i change the main jet

- i removed the air filter

- cruise on highway 90km/h-100km 40% of the total mileage

 

so not bad eh...

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by paiseh

im using chemlub eng oil. fully synthetic. much smoother and my fuel consumption is 46.8km/litre. b4 using tat eng oil my fuel consumption is around 40-43km/litre. gear change feels smooth for the first 1500km after changing the oil but not as smooth for the 1500km to 2500km. i change eng oil every 2500km, fully syn.

 

regarding the speed issue. i tink no one can really pin point which bike has the most accurate speedo. i tink all around plus minus 10km/hr.

 

but no isse, to me, fuel consumption is the biggest issue

 

now im on 763km. fuel gauge needle still showing slightly more den half tank! i hope i can hit 1000km on this full tank. been trying to keep my speed max at 80km/hr.

 

usually travel around 65 to 70km/hr

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by waadee

i fix my belly pan at bukit merah lane uni motors. theres dis one mech i tink name ah seng who does a good job of fixing the pan for me. but with alot of cutting and mod abit here and there. i went home and cut the pan so it looks nicer.

 

and abt tribal design.. brader tribal outdated already lah. and my chosen colour scheme would be bajaj stock blue with lie yellow and silver

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by paiseh

brother, the fuel gauge not accurate actually. this has been discussed b4. However, this is the rough guide:

 

From very full to full, it covers 400km

from full to reserve, it covers another 400km

from reserve to empty, it covers at least another 80km.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wayne27

Hi guys i have just change my Y125Z to Bjaja. My colleage told me that is kind of bike is easy to steal ofcos i dun believe until he show me. So u guys b careful o can install alarm o a switch to cut off. Just to let u guys know.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by paiseh

there is this knob beneath the tank on the left side of the bike. very obvious. u can adjust ur idling there.

 

to adjust idling, ur bike must be hot. So, it is best to adjust after a 20min long travel. den adjust to roughly 1.1k rpm will do though 1.5krpm is normal in fact.

 

advantage: u will realise u get better fuel consumption.

disadvantage: while warming up, idling is just a mere 500, coz very cold, so u haf to pull the throttle, if not choke.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by GoofRider

have u guys heard before.. i dun know its rumours or for real. end of this year, Bajaj coming out with a 225cc bike.. and its gonna be 108km/litre.

it may sound stoopid and impossible.. but i dun know.

 

at first ppl didn't believe that Pulsar can reach 50km/l until they see for themselves..

 

heard this from Bajaj agent

 

anyway if there is such a model coming out.. i sure gonna get it! class 2A

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by stsoh

i know bajaj owners r very happy with fc but just a word tat needed to be mentioned.

running lean and very lean fc, the con is burnt exhaust valves.

this is very well known 2 every trained mech exclude those err i can't say it.

best carb setup is.......read it up more, u find a lot articles on webbies.

best fuel/air mixture is 12~15 part air to 1 part fuel or actually recommended 14.7(air)/1(fuel).

u can't get exact mixture on carb but can be easily programmed on EFI.

 

take care, u be happy with it now but later with regrets.

 

btw,

 

this is done under 50 kph, all manufacturers' claim on fc travelled 50 kph or under.

there r competition about 1 litre per 100km so far on very few have done it.

it is near impossible for a non-modified/weight saving bike to achieve this kind of fc.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by GoofRider

Stsoh>> hey bro, about what u said.. its true that most bike tested at 50kph.. no doubt about it.

and thats what ppl say about Pulsar also at first.. but now.. look at the fact.

 

Bro paiseh ride at 70km/h and now he clock at 53km/l..

myself btw 85-100km/l and i clock at 46km/l..

 

ppl who ride pulsar are not who like to brag about how cool it looks or how fast it can go.. we only concern about good FC and low maintence..

 

i'm not bragging it about bajaj technology.. it may sound impossible.. but we dun know.. i dun know.. thats why i awaits for the bike to be out and tested.

 

cheers.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by paiseh

The carburetor is the heart of the engine, which regulates the petrol and air supply and prepares the air+fuel mixture for burning. It mixes approximately 15 parts of air with one part of petrol by weight and creates a fine spray of petrol by means of jets.

 

 

The rider controls the amount of the air+fuel mixture entering the combustion chamber by operating the throttle. When the rider accelerates, a larger volume of the air-fuel mixture is fed into the combustion chamber.

 

The Role of the Valves:

 

Usually a cylinder has two valves. The valve, which allows the air+fuel mixture to enter the cylinder, is called the inlet valve and the valve that allows the exhaust gases to leave the cylinder is called the exhaust valve.

 

During the induction stroke the inlet valve remains open and the exhaust valve remains closed. During the compression stroke both valves remain closed. Both valves also remain closed during the power stroke. On the exhaust stroke, only exhaust valve opens allowing the burnt gases to be forced into exhaust system. This is how valves enable the sequence of the four stroke operation.

 

The opening and closing of valves and the sparking on the plug at the precise moment is obtained by the timing. The timing is governed by timing gears attached to the crankshaft, while the current to the spark plug is regulated through contact breaker points at the distributor.

 

The ignition of the air+fuel mixture inside the cylinder creates tremendous heat. Hence to prevent engine from overheating the engine has cooling as well as lubricating system. In most Indian built bikes, the forced air-cooling system is used, where in the air passes through the fins of the engine, which help in dissipation/dispersal of heat. The lubricating system, on other hand consists of oil which is kept inside the engine block, from where it is pumped around the engine to lubricate (almost 160) moving parts of the engine, Temperature over 700 degrees is produced inside the engine and only part of this heat is utilized to convert it into power. The remaining heat is thrown out through exhaust gases.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by paiseh

The average ratio for complete fuel combustion (stoichiometric ratio) is 14:1 or about 14 kg of air to 1 kg of fuel.

 

A lean mixture contains more air, while a rich mixture contains less air.

 

In the case of an air deficiency, the fuel may not be fully used, and it leads to a higher percentage of pollutants in the exhaust gases.

With excess air, power is reduced and engine temperature is higher due to a slower rate of combustion.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by paiseh

Bajaj Pulsar debuted on November 14, 2004. There are 2 variants - the Pulsar 180 and the 150, both of which were launched in their newer DTSi avataars recently. DTS-i stands for Digital Twin Spark ignition, which uses two spark plugs to achieve optimum combustion of fuel. This system provides better efficiency and power, while eliminating the need of a catalytic converter to reduce emissions. The Bajaj Pulsar is acclaimed for its handling and is widely popular in India. The Bajaj Pulsar is now the most popular bike in its class. It has moved far ahead of its competitors - primarily the Hero Honda CBZ, the Fiero and the comparitively new Honda Unicorn.

 

If it is a problematic bike, it wouldnt have been the most popular bike in india. it wont be in spore. pls Dun tell me the bike's history is less den 2 yrs to tell if its a problematic bike. usually, it just takes less den a yr for problems of bike to be reported.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by rocka

sounds like a good mechanical student.

 

in fact if we are careful about using 98 and above, which is likely to be Octane purely, we should use 12.5 part air to 1 part fuel for complete combustion and most efficiency. but then again, exhaust will be at risk for handling too hot products and if u have a partner riding at the rear, he or she may take note of that.

 

there's no theory that leaner mixture gives higher FC. say we mix 14 part air to 1 part fuel, energy is absorbed by 1.5 part extra air thus reducing the frequency of power strokes the piston or crankshaft deserves. But FMHO, the less u throttle hard, the longer the fuel lasts. It's because, even you throttle 80% ( for example ) performance may be about 60-70% depending on age of bike. If u increase to 85%, performance go up to 62 or 72 only. Test it out yourself. The amount of throttle needed for a speed up of 90 to 100 needs more than that from 80 to 90.

 

Cheers!

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by tankahn

Thanks to your favorable reports. Went ahead and bought a brand new Bajaj from Universal last Monday. Collection next day. That is fast.

 

I am 1.84 above 110 kgs and only qualified to ride class 2b. So the Bajaj is ideal for my size. For a while I thought I have to make do with kupkias or flimsy YBRs.

 

Bike an attention seeker. Other than its clumsy gears, would have wholeheartedly endorse this bike.

 

I have a GPS that work out the correct speed. The stock Bajaj I am riding shows about 6kmh over actual speed. If your speedo shows 80kmh, its probably going at 74kmh so speed on! Of course, this works for my bike, YMMV.

 

Hope everyone here keep the thread as relevent as possible. PM if only talking to the person directly. Its a chore to wade through the chatter once it the thread get a 100 pages long. Hopefully newcomers get the information they need and we'll see more Bajaj on the road with cheaper replacement parts for all.

 

PM me if you have any questions.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by GoofRider

i jus came back from JB... top up my tank..

was surprise with my FC.

 

top up 13.57litres at 707km = 52.1

and the thing is i sometimes ride at 65km/h and sometime i

cruise at 90km/h.. and about 10% i ride at 95km/h..

and end up my FC is 52km/litre..

 

so i think i will try to reach the 1000km mileage that paiseh try to achieve but

i won't ride till my tank nearly empty lah..

i go by the other way round is that find the FC for 1000km

 

so 1000km divided by 18litre tank = 55.56km/litre..

 

i think i can lor.. a but confident.. hehe

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by etky85

hi people.. besides Bridgestone Battelax, still got other tyres quality range but not as ex as battelax.. cos my fren say battelax damn good.. but very fast botak cos stick too much wit roads liao.. haha.. thanks in advance..

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by waadee

ok guys i found a few products dat provide grouning for the bike which promise better performance in return..

 

mayb the diff is not so great.. but iam interested lah... not now but mayb later...

 

since there are so many.. which one you guys recommend?

 

i have read abt -revtec -power abuser and pmax

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by paiseh

hmm.. i would recommend revtec. i have tried this brand on my previous bike b4. i rate it 9/10 for fuel saving.

 

as for response, i dint feel any difference

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by paiseh

tankahn: according to the mechanic i asked from universal motor, he told me the gear ratio of this bike is close and we need to change the gear fully b4 releasing the clutch although u could feel that the gear has already kicked in. i experience what u had experienced exactly only when i chnage gear too fast and rev high immediately. however, this happens only to my 3rd or 4th gear, not when moving off.

 

etky85: pulsars in spore do have pilot lights. 2 of them by the side of the headlight. abt the projection headlights, this has been discussed b4. it is the 250cc pulsar models that has this projection headlights. they even haf LED taillights.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by paiseh

this has been discussed b4. 43km/litre is average. 53km/litre can be achieved if u haf the time n patience.. travel betw 65km/hr to 80km/hr.

 

it really depends on how much the rider travels. i travel abt 112km per day, so if i were to get kup, i migt need to pump it up once every day. tat is y i chose pulsar

 

if u travel 50km per day, i tink kup is good enough. however, if u r looking for stability, something big in size, i tink pulsar is not bad.

 

abt having a super4 as despatch, is a nono in my opinion

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by paiseh

haha, i also despactch rider. despatch gf.

 

137kg is the dry weight, + 18litres of petrol ( ihave pumped 20.2 litres b4) should be around 145 - 150kg.

 

despite the weight of my pillion and mine, im still able to achieve 46.8km/litre with ave travelling speed of 90km/hr. for me, it is aworth while investment

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by paiseh

hi Roadrunner71,

 

CBR150 has got good fuel consumption around 35km/litre to 43km/litre. and to achieve 43km/litre, i travelled slowly like around 70km/hr to 80km/hr (with that riding style on pulsar, i get 53.1km/litre) in fact i would really like the CBR150's engine into pulsar. CBR150 has 4 valves and pulsar has 2 only. cbr150's pickup is very much faster den pulsar and has a top speed of 145km/hr.

 

having said that, CBR150 is abit too small in my opinion. the rear tyre n front tyre is not as fat as the pulsars. in fact, when u travel 80km/hr and a van overtakes u, u feel that it is not stable which pulsar can achieve. pulsar is much more stable compared to CBR150.

 

although CBR150 is a sportsbike, the position is quite comfortable and i tink it is more comfortable den pulsar's seat. CBR150 pillion's rear seat however is not as comfy as pulsar's pillion seat.

 

maintenance both almost the same, 1.1litre of eng oil, no oil filter, but CBR150 single plug. do take note that the insurance for CBR150 can be a killer for new riders becoz it is classified under Honda Sports Bike in NTUC's policy.

 

all in all, each bike has its own advantages and disadvantages. i really hope if CBR150's eng can be fitted into pulsar. i wil not mind the 35km/litre fuel consumption taking into account the abit of speed n thrill of pickup i gain.

 

 

Originally Posted by paiseh

I have this problem too. esp when 3rd to 2nd gear, the crashing sound is quite disturbing. i have asked many mechanics abt it, they told me i was on high gear and low speed, meaning not enough power, thus the crashing sound.

 

I totally disagreed with this coz i know this is not the reason. the only mech i trust is the mech employed at universal showroom. i salute him. he test rode my bike, checked everything in out, and found out it is the chain the hits the chain guard.

 

this is when u release the clutch, the clucth plate somehow not smooth, causing the chain to vibrate so violently tat it hits the chain guard. after 8000km++, this problem lessened alot. maybe u could run in first and feedback?

 

so far u and me are the only one who complained of such problem. i had 2 frens who is riding the same bike as me, not from forum, they dun haf such problem. maybe different bike has diff characteristics.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rafalution

The Bajaj Pulsar comes with factory fitted MRF Zappers.

The tyre sizes are 2.75x18, 42P in the front and 3.0x18 46PR (for the 150) and 100/90x18, 56 PR (for the 180) in the rear.

 

MRF Zappers are a hard tyre compound and therefore have a very good tyre life. They usually last upwards of 30,000km. However, the harder rubber means that the grip of the tyre isn't as good as that provided by others, such as the Dunlop Geocruiser, or the Michelin. Some people fit the rear tyre of a Kawasaki Eliminator on their Pulsars, which is also an MRF Zapper, but wider.

 

Bro, about the chain/sprocket ratio, that i'm not so sure leh!

And about the engine oil evaporation, i've yet to check the level bro. Maybe new bike wont evaporate that much but point noted, i will check tomorrow.

 

Completed page 1-15...hehhe,...bro adriel78 mind continue,..hehhe

[Guest unforgiven]

Bro, commendable effort on ur part. But not necessary lah. Not everyone is new here. For newbies, up to the individual whether wanna make the effort to search for tips, reviews and advice by reading from Pg. 1.

 

But if u still wanna do this, I suggest u copy & paste the relevant posts using MS Word. When completed, u post the MS Word doc as an attachment. I think that's better than multi-quoting so many posts all the way from Pg. 1 onwards.

 

Anyway, for ur efforts!

 

Hi,..its been more than 100 pages,...for beginners like me,i found it difficult to find tips,review and advise on bajaj if i were to scroll 1 by 1,....till the end,.. . I would like to consoilidate all the useful tips,review and advise.i hope all the bajaj pulsar rider to help too,...thanks.

 

Hi guys,..i need volunteers to collect all the info,tips,mod,advise regarding bajaj pulsar.Each person take 15 page can??All ur effort will be greatly appreciate by all bajaj pulsar owner .

 

 

Unforgiven page 01-15

Adriel78 page 16-30

night-hawk page 31-45

roadrunner71 page 46-60

pulsarbee page 61-75

spai_duhz page 76-90

totalpet page 91-105

 

Anymore volunteers??paiseh....??

Hopefully this small project can be completed before 20th August which is next week Mon(10 days more)

 

Can u guys do it???

 

hi bro,..i did what u suggested,all compile it in to 1:thumb:

i hope u show ur support by helping me to compile the rest,....thanks in advance.

[Guest unforgiven]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hr9sCI_PZV8&mode=related&search=

 

Pulsar with H.I.D.

hi bro,..mind helping out compiling all the useful tips,advise,mod etc..for other pulsar riders??thanks.

[S4RevoVtec]

when compile, put main point else too wordy, no one wan to read.

[Roadrunner71]

hi bro,..i did what u suggested,all compile it in to 1

I think u should read my suggestion carefully again .....

I suggest u copy & paste the relevant posts using MS Word. When completed, u post the MS Word doc as an attachment. I think that's better than multi-quoting so many posts all the way from Pg. 1 onwards.

[joajas]

T10 Super Flux LED Bulb(consist of 5 LED chips)

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143547&page=5

 

white not stock nw.. only blue and red..

 

but looks like the seller MIA le.. and some buyers feedback some problem..

 

still thinking wan to get from him or not?

speedo and tachmeter RED

pole light also RED

nice?

 

Why not make the T10 superflux youself? T10 leds are actually very simple stuff. you just take any t10 led, bend the legs straight and you can take out the led.

 

Basically T10 leds are made up of only 3 components.

 

The plastic housing (most difficult to find, maybe can buy cheapo T10 led to get the housing), the led, and a resistor.

 

 

Guy's, i've been busy these few days.

 

Doing my new T10.

 

And here it is for everyone's view pleasure.

 

http://img376.imageshack.us/img376/1900/dsc01421fa3.th.jpg

http://img376.imageshack.us/img376/1801/dsc01417mr0.th.jpg

http://img376.imageshack.us/img376/4530/dsc01416zg4.th.jpg

 

 

But result not up to what I wanted. Because of the compatibility between the reflector and my T10.

[blueyeagle]

I think u should read my suggestion carefully again .....

 

 

Agree with Bro Roadrunner. It's not practical to re-quote all of the tips and advice again. What happen when this forum pages reach 200 or 500? Re-quote again for the newbies?

Roadrunner suggestion is that all tips and advise are compiled into MS word and put them under categories such as mileage tips, maintenance tips, mods etc.. This way, anyone can just download a single file and read them offline or even print them. Just my opinion.

[GoofRider]

Agree with Bro Roadrunner. It's not practical to re-quote all of the tips and advice again. What happen when this forum pages reach 200 or 500? Re-quote again for the newbies?

Roadrunner suggestion is that all tips and advise are compiled into MS word and put them under categories such as mileage tips, maintenance tips, mods etc.. This way, anyone can just download a single file and read them offline or even print them. Just my opinion.

 

 

agree.. up for you Bro Roady. hee

[spaiduhz]

in a nutshell of the hundred pages so far.

Jargons...

KM/L - Kilometers per Liter (of petrol. duhz.)

KM/H - Kilometers per Hour

FC - Fuel Consumption

EO- Engine Oil

 

 

The pulsar is a fierce looking yet economical bike that has relatively good acceleration, on stock settings. This makes it good for stop and go traffic in Singapore.

 

Able to hit 50KM/L if cruising at 80-90KM/H.

60KM/L possible if you ride at 70KM/H.

 

130KM/H top speed is possible on stock settings.

 

Please note however that FC and Top Speed is relative to the load of the bike. More loaded your bike, your FC will drop, and your top speed too.

 

FC is also linked to your average speed, as well as your load. Ride like a maniac with a loaded bike like me, and dont do a double take when you realize you only managed 28KM/L when you have a loaded side boxes and top box, as well as a bag on your shoulder, and going at 110KM/H average.

 

If speed is your thing, you can change rear sprocket to a smaller diameter one. If you are foolhardy enough, you can get thinner tires (just ask for sotong tires. the mech should know wtf yer talking about). A more drastic measure to improve the acceleration even more would be to replace the standard mainjet to a larger one (from 1.0 to 1.25) and to install K&N air Filters. Installing the air filters will require cutting of the airbox, AND WILL VOID THE WARRANTY. Change your mainjet and you will want to tune your bike. Bigger mainjet will make your bike run too rich. Never heard a backfire on a pulsar before. Dont want to be the first. Do at your own risk.

 

If control is more of your thing, then you will want to change the tires. The MRF Zappers are an ultra hard compound tires that will easily last for a few years. Likely than not you will have to discard the tires due to expiry date rather than them being worn. Being hard compound tires road grip will not be too good as compared to softer compound tires. Universal Motors gives an option for you to install Battlax tires instead of MRF Zappers. Was quoted quite cheap... however thats if you asked him to install the tires before taking the bike out of the shop. Good luck.

 

Irregardless if you want better control, higher top speed or even better FC, you will want to toss away the champion spark plugs that it comes stock with, and plug in iridium spark plugs. be it NGK or Denso, be it grade 8,9 or 10... just change it. Between the two brands and different grades, they perform the same. Higher grades perform better in colder countries, so i am inclined to believe that higher grades are easier from cold start.

 

If you wish the purchase the pulsar, but are baulking at the price that universal quoted you, Jalan Bukit Merah has a **** load of stores that carry the pulsars at a cheaper rate. Hidden costs can make you vomit blood though. Do your own homework.

 

3 types of pulsars on singapore roads.

 

V 1. Pulsar with old Bajaj logo. Its the one that the New Paper reviewed.

Spoke rims.

Metallic engine block and exhaust.

Old type enhaust. It does have exhausTEC, cept it sounds harsher somehow.

 

V 2. New logo. Beginning of the black pulsar series.

Sport rims.

Black engine block and exhaust.

new type exhaust. has some controversial holes drilled at certain parts. sounds less harsh than V 1.

 

V 2.2

Same as the above. Add engine kill switch.

 

V 3. Enter the most drastic cosmetic change... ever. Also known as UG3.

Sport rims. Black engine block and Exhaust.

Sharper design.

LED taillight.

Digital Speedometer, Fuel Level Indicator, and integrated Analog Tachometer

Auto cancelling signal lights (an annoyance, imho)

 

One last thing you should know if you are considering the pulsar is all the bad points. No bike is perfect.

 

1. Not fast. 180cc bike that tops at 130KM/H is rather pathetic to some.

2. Big and heavy. Not for the petit.

3. Expensive for a 2B bike. You can get a 2nd hand S4 Spec1 for the price of a brand new pulsar.

4. Yer gonna have to get used to the vibration.

5. I cannot stress enough. Vibrations.

6. Did i mention vibrations?

7. Oho. So you want third party parts. Dont waste your time at Jalan Bapok, Malaysia doesnt have any Malaysian pulsars on the road.

8. For the UG3, the fuel level indicator is bloody inaccurate.

 

For those who already have a pulsar... more likely than not you attended the DIY hazard light session. we had fun. yeaaaaaa.

 

Mantainance wise... what this "kamikaze pulsar rider" would reccomend is that irregardless of cheap EO or expensive EO, please change engine oil every 2K-2.5K Kilometers, the sooner the better. The Manual might list 1L EO per change... But I personally top up 1.2L every other week, and in between I top up another 0.2L of cheap EO. But then again i am a "kamikaze" rider, so the rest of you probably wont need to be so extreme in your engine oil change. :/

 

Thats basically all the important parts... for new people. for people who already have pulsars... will have to go into even deeper detail.

 

New pulsar comming. Personally, i think the P200 will be the start of a really bad joke. lets see how lor.

[Nemesis]

Good JOb spaiz,

 

 

UPs for you......

[spaiduhz]

*reserved*

 

guide on how to hit 130KM/H on stock.

 

1. ensure your tank is near empty.

2. find a long stretch of road. the malaysia NSH is one very nice stretch. Standby duit kopi in advance, for your own safety.

3. pull down your pillion foot rests, and make sure you are wearing a comfortable, preferdably padded shirt. Got boxes? remove them.

4. cruise your bike to gear 5.

5. ok heres how you hit 130. aerodynamics is very important. put your feet on your pillion footrests so that it will seem like you have racing footrests. move your buttocks further back. lean forward. if you can confidently rest your chest on the tank, all the better.

6. Pull throttle all the way. ignore the blinking red light.

 

dont forget to let go of the throttle when yer done.

 

lets compare top speeds!

[Guest unforgiven]

I think u should read my suggestion carefully again .....

 

thanks bro for ur comment,..but,i would rather see action rather than comment.mind showing me example?

[Guest unforgiven]

Agree with Bro Roadrunner. It's not practical to re-quote all of the tips and advice again. What happen when this forum pages reach 200 or 500? Re-quote again for the newbies?

Roadrunner suggestion is that all tips and advise are compiled into MS word and put them under categories such as mileage tips, maintenance tips, mods etc.. This way, anyone can just download a single file and read them offline or even print them. Just my opinion.

 

agree.. up for you Bro Roady. hee

 

hhmmm,..mind helping out roadrunner71 ,just my opinion too.

[Guest unforgiven]

in a nutshell of the hundred pages so far.

Jargons...

KM/L - Kilometers per Liter (of petrol. duhz.)

KM/H - Kilometers per Hour

FC - Fuel Consumption

EO- Engine Oil

 

 

The pulsar is a fierce looking yet economical bike that has relatively good acceleration, on stock settings. This makes it good for stop and go traffic in Singapore.

 

Able to hit 50KM/L if cruising at 80-90KM/H.

60KM/L possible if you ride at 70KM/H.

 

130KM/H top speed is possible on stock settings.

 

Please note however that FC and Top Speed is relative to the load of the bike. More loaded your bike, your FC will drop, and your top speed too.

 

FC is also linked to your average speed, as well as your load. Ride like a maniac with a loaded bike like me, and dont do a double take when you realize you only managed 28KM/L when you have a loaded side boxes and top box, as well as a bag on your shoulder, and going at 110KM/H average.

 

If speed is your thing, you can change rear sprocket to a smaller diameter one. If you are foolhardy enough, you can get thinner tires (just ask for sotong tires. the mech should know wtf yer talking about). A more drastic measure to improve the acceleration even more would be to replace the standard mainjet to a larger one (from 1.0 to 1.25) and to install K&N air Filters. Installing the air filters will require cutting of the airbox, AND WILL VOID THE WARRANTY. Change your mainjet and you will want to tune your bike. Bigger mainjet will make your bike run too rich. Never heard a backfire on a pulsar before. Dont want to be the first. Do at your own risk.

 

If control is more of your thing, then you will want to change the tires. The MRF Zappers are an ultra hard compound tires that will easily last for a few years. Likely than not you will have to discard the tires due to expiry date rather than them being worn. Being hard compound tires road grip will not be too good as compared to softer compound tires. Universal Motors gives an option for you to install Battlax tires instead of MRF Zappers. Was quoted quite cheap... however thats if you asked him to install the tires before taking the bike out of the shop. Good luck.

 

Irregardless if you want better control, higher top speed or even better FC, you will want to toss away the champion spark plugs that it comes stock with, and plug in iridium spark plugs. be it NGK or Denso, be it grade 8,9 or 10... just change it. Between the two brands and different grades, they perform the same. Higher grades perform better in colder countries, so i am inclined to believe that higher grades are easier from cold start.

 

If you wish the purchase the pulsar, but are baulking at the price that universal quoted you, Jalan Bukit Merah has a **** load of stores that carry the pulsars at a cheaper rate. Hidden costs can make you vomit blood though. Do your own homework.

 

3 types of pulsars on singapore roads.

 

V 1. Pulsar with old Bajaj logo. Its the one that the New Paper reviewed.

Spoke rims.

Metallic engine block and exhaust.

Old type enhaust. It does have exhausTEC, cept it sounds harsher somehow.

 

V 2. New logo. Beginning of the black pulsar series.

Sport rims.

Black engine block and exhaust.

new type exhaust. has some controversial holes drilled at certain parts. sounds less harsh than V 1.

 

V 2.2

Same as the above. Add engine kill switch.

 

V 3. Enter the most drastic cosmetic change... ever. Also known as UG3.

Sport rims. Black engine block and Exhaust.

Sharper design.

LED taillight.

Digital Speedometer, Fuel Level Indicator, and integrated Analog Tachometer

Auto cancelling signal lights (an annoyance, imho)

 

One last thing you should know if you are considering the pulsar is all the bad points. No bike is perfect.

 

1. Not fast. 180cc bike that tops at 130KM/H is rather pathetic to some.

2. Big and heavy. Not for the petit.

3. Expensive for a 2B bike. You can get a 2nd hand S4 Spec1 for the price of a brand new pulsar.

4. Yer gonna have to get used to the vibration.

5. I cannot stress enough. Vibrations.

6. Did i mention vibrations?

7. Oho. So you want third party parts. Dont waste your time at Jalan Bapok, Malaysia doesnt have any Malaysian pulsars on the road.

8. For the UG3, the fuel level indicator is bloody inaccurate.

 

For those who already have a pulsar... more likely than not you attended the DIY hazard light session. we had fun. yeaaaaaa.

 

Mantainance wise... what this "kamikaze pulsar rider" would reccomend is that irregardless of cheap EO or expensive EO, please change engine oil every 2K-2.5K Kilometers, the sooner the better. The Manual might list 1L EO per change... But I personally top up 1.2L every other week, and in between I top up another 0.2L of cheap EO. But then again i am a "kamikaze" rider, so the rest of you probably wont need to be so extreme in your engine oil change. :/

 

Thats basically all the important parts... for new people. for people who already have pulsars... will have to go into even deeper detail.

 

New pulsar comming. Personally, i think the P200 will be the start of a really bad joke. lets see how lor.

 

*reserved*

 

guide on how to hit 130KM/H on stock.

 

1. ensure your tank is near empty.

2. find a long stretch of road. the malaysia NSH is one very nice stretch. Standby duit kopi in advance, for your own safety.

3. pull down your pillion foot rests, and make sure you are wearing a comfortable, preferdably padded shirt. Got boxes? remove them.

4. cruise your bike to gear 5.

5. ok heres how you hit 130. aerodynamics is very important. put your feet on your pillion footrests so that it will seem like you have racing footrests. move your buttocks further back. lean forward. if you can confidently rest your chest on the tank, all the better.

6. Pull throttle all the way. ignore the blinking red light.

 

dont forget to let go of the throttle when yer done.

 

lets compare top speeds!

thanks bro:thumb: the newbies really appreciate ur kind gesture and help,...ups to u.

[Roadrunner71]

thanks bro for ur comment,..but,i would rather see action rather than comment.mind showing me example?

Bajaj Pulsar - The Good, the Bad & the Ugly

Sample Attachment.doc