[Group] SUZUKI Bandit

[S750WP]

Originally posted by DatsunKing@Jun 16 2004, 11:43 PM

wa repair bandit need torque wrench 1 meh... so high tech... i at air force thought using torque on aircraft thought very high tech liao, dunno bandit also got use torque wrench... Torque wrench after use few times must go caliberate 1 right? u all go where make? BTW which part of bandit require torque wrench to tighten?

The only part which I feel requires torque wrench are parts related to the engine.

 

Normally I just tighten for general maintenance, e.g for for rear brake caliper overhaul I did not use a torque wrench when assembling.

[silver]

Did my carb wash tonite. was not please with the work.

 

To cut the story short, discover that the 4 pilot screws had been disturbed before and all 4 at different position And I do not have the setting cos it was supposed to pre-set at factory and blank off. so I refer to B12's setting but misunderstood the meaning. end up mixture too rich. can smell it (came home to find stock B6's setting from the internet, ya confirm i turn out too much ) haven take out the spark plug to confirm.

 

cannot unscrew the pilot jets, so left them. unscrew one of the very dirty screw to clean and later discovered that is the tuning screw for sychronising. great! bo pian, just got to turn then the same number of turns, hopefully they are more or less equal. clean up the very dirty and oily carb external and internal (quite clean inside )with the carb cleaner (burns the hand and face when kenna).

 

putting back again got problem, tightened the carbs then discover cannot put in one of the throttle cable, got to take out everything again. put back everything and try start up the bike. discover forget to tighten one of the drain screw. waste some petrol.

 

try to correct the number of turns for the pilot screws tomorrow since they are outside the carbs. but i dont know whether the pilot jets that cannot be removed will cause any problem ?

 

anyway, the bike does sound more in tune then before (could be my imagination ) but definately lesser vibrations.

 

kekeke, saw the security guard on patrol again tonite. thought oh my god its so late?! only 11pm, they did their shift eariler tonite.

[silver]

correct the pilot screws this morning. turn 2.5 as found on the net (but for newer bandits), but iding very unstable, keep dying. so turn out .5 turn more. seems to be better.

 

had a small missharp. turn one of the pilot screw and discover how come the screw can go all the way in. i tot die liao, maybe i lose the spring or what. end up bring a mirror down and discover pilot screw was missing. Oh sh*t! was thinking wat to do when accidentally saw that the screw had actually drop out. Heng ah!

 

got some questions.

is the pilot screw suppose to control the amount of fuel entering the carb during idling? so by turning the screw in or out i can adjust how lean or rich i want the mixture right. and i am suppose to check by the spark plug after a ride, not after normal idling? slight rich is better (less heat but waste fuel) or slight lean better (more heat but more power) if cannot get a balance?

 

the manual for UK model B6 is 1 7/8 turn out. mine is US model. cannot be different by some much rite (3 turns out). however, mine pilot air jet is size 155, UK model is 150. (What is the diff btw pilot jet & pilot air jet? fuel & air control?)

 

on the carb sychronising, as no value is given how do i know which should be the correct level (if all 4 are on diff level) ?

 

beginning to enjoy myself

[Eatmanx]

Hi guys,

 

Just bought myself a gsf400p. Am in two minds of installing engine guard or sliders. Also intend to fix the belly pan. so what do you guys suggest....???

 

 

Sham

[S750WP]

Originally posted by silver@Jun 19 2004, 11:09 AM

correct the pilot screws this morning. turn 2.5 as found on the net (but for newer bandits), but iding very unstable, keep dying. so turn out .5 turn more. seems to be better.

 

had a small missharp. turn one of the pilot screw and discover how come the screw can go all the way in. i tot die liao, maybe i lose the spring or what. end up bring a mirror down and discover pilot screw was missing. Oh sh*t! was thinking wat to do when accidentally saw that the screw had actually drop out. Heng ah!

 

got some questions.

is the pilot screw suppose to control the amount of fuel entering the carb during idling? so by turning the screw in or out i can adjust how lean or rich i want the mixture right. and i am suppose to check by the spark plug after a ride, not after normal idling? slight rich is better (less heat but waste fuel) or slight lean better (more heat but more power) if cannot get a balance?

 

the manual for UK model B6 is 1 7/8 turn out. mine is US model. cannot be different by some much rite (3 turns out). however, mine pilot air jet is size 155, UK model is 150. (What is the diff btw pilot jet & pilot air jet? fuel & air control?)

 

on the carb sychronising, as no value is given how do i know which should be the correct level (if all 4 are on diff level) ?

 

beginning to enjoy myself

Silver I think you got the terms mixed up. The screws which you turn in all the way and turn x numbers of turns out is the air/fuel mixture screws it is normally preset and not advisable to tweak it unless you have a exhaust gas analyzer.

 

And if you really must adjust the air/fuel mixture screws, turn until they sit in gently, and back out the screws by x numbers of turn until the idling is smooth.

 

The pilot jet is inside the float bowl, there are no spring or o-ring, unlike the mixture screw. You just need to turn it in all the way snugly.

 

I fumble when I clean my carb the first time, take out and put in a carb for abt 10 times (maybe exaggerating), as you do it more often you will get the hang of it.

 

One tip for cleaning carb is reverse the carb and drain all the fuel into a bottle first (I use a 500ml coke bottle for this) from the breather tube. After clean and assemble use a small funnel and fill up the carb from the fuel hose using the fuel drain out earlier, the bike will roar to life with 1 or 2 click on the start button.

 

For carb syn, as long the balls lines up in straight line (horizntally), +/- 2mmHg is ok.

[Guest RG]

Originally posted by Eatmanx@Jun 20 2004, 03:13 AM

Hi guys,

 

Just bought myself a gsf400p. Am in two minds of installing engine guard or sliders. Also intend to fix the belly pan. so what do you guys suggest....???

 

 

Sham

Congrats on yur new bike.

 

Regarding the acessories, I've got a question: wat's holding u back?

[S750WP]

Originally posted by silver@Jun 19 2004, 01:45 AM

Did my carb wash tonite. was not please with the work.

 

To cut the story short, discover that the 4 pilot screws had been disturbed before and all 4 at different position And I do not have the setting cos it was supposed to pre-set at factory and blank off. so I refer to B12's setting but misunderstood the meaning. end up mixture too rich. can smell it (came home to find stock B6's setting from the internet, ya confirm i turn out too much ) haven take out the spark plug to confirm.

 

cannot unscrew the pilot jets, so left them. unscrew one of the very dirty screw to clean and later discovered that is the tuning screw for sychronising. great! bo pian, just got to turn then the same number of turns, hopefully they are more or less equal. clean up the very dirty and oily carb external and internal (quite clean inside )with the carb cleaner (burns the hand and face when kenna).

 

putting back again got problem, tightened the carbs then discover cannot put in one of the throttle cable, got to take out everything again. put back everything and try start up the bike. discover forget to tighten one of the drain screw. waste some petrol.

 

try to correct the number of turns for the pilot screws tomorrow since they are outside the carbs. but i dont know whether the pilot jets that cannot be removed will cause any problem ?

 

anyway, the bike does sound more in tune then before (could be my imagination ) but definately lesser vibrations.

 

kekeke, saw the security guard on patrol again tonite. thought oh my god its so late?! only 11pm, they did their shift eariler tonite.

Silver when you free I come over to your work place carpark to do the valve clearance, you supervise I do., hehehe...

[S750WP]

Yesterday went to change the front sprocket, the chiong one (still very new) is giving out too much noise when on the move. The original sprocket has some rubber on it for dampening down the noise, cost $45 from KS. Labour cost for installation is $10.

 

The mech drip some oil on the clutch mechanism when he open up the front sprocket cover to change the sprocket, after that gear shifting is very smooth and quiet. He also spray some WD40 into my steering cone and the lower tripe clamp area, when I told him my steering is very stiff, after that the steering become very smooth too.

[silver]

Silver I think you got the terms mixed up. The screws which you turn in all the way and turn x numbers of turns out is the air/fuel mixture screws it is normally preset and not advisable to tweak it unless you have a exhaust gas analyzer. i know its pre-set, what im saying is that it has been opened, touched and all 4 are at different position

 

And if you really must adjust the air/fuel mixture screws, turn until they sit in gently, and back out the screws by x numbers of turn until the idling is smooth.

thats the place where i misunderstood and turn out too much. btw, when it means sits gently, it means the spring sits on the rubber thing gently or the screw sits on the spring gently?

 

The pilot jet is inside the float bowl, there are no spring or o-ring, unlike the mixture screw. You just need to turn it in all the way snugly. i cant unscrew them at all.

 

I fumble when I clean my carb the first time, take out and put in a carb for abt 10 times (maybe exaggerating), as you do it more often you will get the hang of it.

 

One tip for cleaning carb is reverse the carb and drain all the fuel into a bottle first (I use a 500ml coke bottle for this) from the breather tube. After clean and assemble use a small funnel and fill up the carb from the fuel hose using the fuel drain out earlier, the bike will roar to life with 1 or 2 click on the start button. i drain out throught the drain screw. my fuel switch has a setting which enable direct fuel flow into the carb.

 

For carb syn, as long the balls lines up in straight line (horizntally), +/- 2mmHg is ok. that is the part i need to ask. how do i know which is the correct one? at 12mmhg, 14 or what? cos i read the net, for the B12, they have this "14.5-14.7 air fuel is maximum fuel mileage. 13.2 air fuel (richer than 14.7) is maximum steady state rpm power. 12.7-12.9 is maximum acceleration power" etc thing.

[silver]

Originally posted by S750WP@Jun 20 2004, 11:53 AM

Silver when you free I come over to your work place carpark to do the valve clearance, you supervise I do., hehehe...

can ah, tomorrow should be doing some maintenance stuff at my work place after work. u want can come down

[silver]

Had a problem. i found out that at the throttle closed position, if i tried to push it further in somemore, the idle will die. has it got something to do with the throttle cables?

 

i used to have this problem long time back on another bike but forget what cause it.

[S750WP]

Originally posted by silver@Jun 20 2004, 01:46 PM

thats the place where i misunderstood and turn out too much. btw, when it means sits gently, it means the spring sits on the rubber thing gently or the screw sits on the spring gently?

 

 

Later, turn the A/F mixture screw slowly until it seat in gently do not use force as the needle will break if its turn in too hard.

 

i cant unscrew them at all.

 

They can be very tight if it not taken out for a long time. Try to squirt some carb cleaner in and unscrew with a "Phillip Test Pen" it works for me everytime. But it doesn't matter if can't be take out, just spray lot of carb cleaner to make sure the orifice is not block.

 

i drain out throught the drain screw. my fuel switch has a setting which enable direct fuel flow into the carb. My 750 has a 'Pri' setting but the bandit doesn;t, but I still pour in the fuel to the carb everytime I empty it so as not to strain the battery and the starter motor.

 

that is the part i need to ask. how do i know which is the correct one? at 12mmhg, 14 or what? cos i read the net, for the B12, they have this "14.5-14.7 air fuel is maximum fuel mileage. 13.2 air fuel (richer than 14.7) is maximum steady state rpm power. 12.7-12.9 is maximum acceleration power" etc thing.

 

Forget about what the net says, it seems to be refering to the float height. My 750 and bandit 4 has the same float height of 14.6 +/- 1mm. And please do not ever adjust the float height unnecessary as its very sensitive to changes, it never deviates unless its handle roughly.

 

Follow the service manaul and adjust the idle to 1750rpm and syn the carb till the balls are in line. Remeber to cap the vacuum line if you are using a external fuel suppy while doing carb syn else reading won't be accurate.

 

If you dont have a carb syn tool, can try manually syn by first turning the idling screw in so that the throttle plates are close to the small little hole on the carb throat. Then adjust the balancing screws accordingly until the throttle plate equal distance from the small little hole. After that is done back off the idle screw till its initial setting.

thats the place where i misunderstood and turn out too much. btw, when it means sits gently, it means the spring sits on the rubber thing gently or the screw sits on the spring gently?

 

 

Later, turn the A/F mixture screw slowly until it seat in gently do not use force as the needle will break if its turn in too hard.

 

i cant unscrew them at all.

 

They can be very tight if it not taken out for a long time. Try to squirt some carb cleaner in and unscrew with a "Phillip Test Pen" it works for me everytime. But it doesn't matter if can't be take out, just spray lot of carb cleaner to make sure the orifice is not block.

 

i drain out throught the drain screw. my fuel switch has a setting which enable direct fuel flow into the carb. My 750 has a 'Pri' setting but the bandit doesn;t, but I still pour in the fuel to the carb everytime I empty it so as not to strain the battery and the starter motor.

 

that is the part i need to ask. how do i know which is the correct one? at 12mmhg, 14 or what? cos i read the net, for the B12, they have this "14.5-14.7 air fuel is maximum fuel mileage. 13.2 air fuel (richer than 14.7) is maximum steady state rpm power. 12.7-12.9 is maximum acceleration power" etc thing.

 

Forget about what the net says, it seems to be refering to the float height. My 750 and bandit 4 has the same float height of 14.6 +/- 1mm. And please do not ever adjust the float height unnecessary as its very sensitive to changes, it never deviates unless its handle roughly.

 

Follow the service manaul and adjust the idle to 1750rpm and syn the carb till the balls are in line. Remeber to cap the vacuum line if you are using a external fuel suppy while doing carb syn else reading won't be accurate.

 

If you dont have a carb syn tool, can try manually syn by first turning the idling screw in so that the throttle plates are close to the small little hole on the carb throat. Then adjust the balancing screws accordingly until the throttle plate equal distance from the small little hole. After that is done back off the idle screw till its initial setting.

[silver]

Later, turn the A/F mixture screw slowly until it seat in gently do not use force as the needle will break if its turn in too hard.

this part i cant get it rite. i just turn them all the way in untill i cant turn anymore then turn out. cos if i feel by resistance in turning in, the 2 outer carbs had different turns compared to inner carbs, so i just cant be sure. i use the marking on the screwdriver to determine number of turns.

 

If you dont have a carb syn tool, can try manually syn by first turning the idling screw in so that the throttle plates are close to the small little hole on the carb throat. Then adjust the balancing screws accordingly until the throttle plate equal distance from the small little hole. After that is done back off the idle screw till its initial setting.

im lost. throttle plate = the circle metal piece releasing fuel into the carbs? i assume u mean the carbs on the bike and look through the airbox? i ever tried playing with different settings on the balancing screws when the carbs are off the bike but see no different in the throttle plate opening position using the acceleration linkage to open the throttle plates. I thought at full throttle, the plates are suppose to be at fully opened position? and no throttle, plates should be fully closed?

[S750WP]

Originally posted by silver@Jun 21 2004, 01:30 AM

If you dont have a carb syn tool, can try manually syn by first turning the idling screw in so that the throttle plates are close to the small little hole on the carb throat. Then adjust the balancing screws accordingly until the throttle plate equal distance from the small little hole. After that is done back off the idle screw till its initial setting.

im lost. throttle plate = the circle metal piece releasing fuel into the carbs? i assume u mean the carbs on the bike and look through the airbox? i ever tried playing with different settings on the balancing screws when the carbs are off the bike but see no different in the throttle plate opening position using the acceleration linkage to open the throttle plates. I thought at full throttle, the plates are suppose to be at fully opened position? and no throttle, plates should be fully closed?

this part i cant get it rite. i just turn them all the way in untill i cant turn anymore then turn out. cos if i feel by resistance in turning in, the 2 outer carbs had different turns compared to inner carbs, so i just cant be sure. i use the marking on the screwdriver to determine number of turns.

 

Turn the screw slowly in, until you can feel resistance, stop then back up 'X' number of turns out.

 

im lost. throttle plate = the circle metal piece releasing fuel into the carbs? i assume u mean the carbs on the bike and look through the airbox? i ever tried playing with different settings on the balancing screws when the carbs are off the bike but see no different in the throttle plate opening position using the acceleration linkage to open the throttle plates. I thought at full throttle, the plates are suppose to be at fully opened position? and no throttle, plates should be fully closed?

 

Yep, I'm refering to circle piece of brass metal plate. For the manual carb syn, you can refer to the bandit400 manual it explained it steps by steps. You can only do this method when the carb is off the bike, to make the throttle plate open together at the same time, same pace and distance when you pull the throttle.

[S750WP]

What is your fuel bandit consumption? Mine is abt 18.5km/L approx, is it normal?

 

Because I switch over to reserve at 242km, assuming consuming 13L, since bandit fuel tank capacity is 16L and 3L are for reserve.

[jkaiser]

Originally posted by S750WP@Jun 21 2004, 09:05 AM

What is your fuel bandit consumption? Mine is abt 18.5km/L approx, is it normal?

 

Because I switch over to reserve at 242km, assuming consuming 13L, since bandit fuel tank capacity is 16L and 3L are for reserve.

i hit @ about 220 leh...havn't washed carb since i bought it..think will help?

[rocketman2]

Originally posted by jkaiser@Jun 21 2004, 10:26 AM

i hit @ about 220 leh...havn't washed carb since i bought it..think will help?

shld be, i avg ard 200~240 klicks b4 hitting reserve depending on the style of riding.

[chee_teck]

Originally posted by silver@Jun 15 2004, 01:23 AM

yeah, crazy isnt it? somemore do untill 2am alone in my office carpark i just got 'itchy' fingers

 

i tot it would take me a few hours didnt know took me so lone. somemore its not somethig which you can put aside n do later.

 

I went through a few bandit fourms and they advise that it can be easily done on your own with a manual on hand. the difficult part is not the checking, its the removal of everything to reach the internal that is tiring. so i just wack lor. they did advise a few things to look out for.

 

 

:bounce:

Wah u power leh go a lone. Yah i do believe to open up the engine to get to the internal should be tiring....and need plenty of tools somemore...pheww...

 

as for myself opening the tank tht four nuts to change plugs i oredi think its troublesome hehehe...

[chee_teck]

Originally posted by jkaiser@Jun 21 2004, 10:26 AM

i hit @ about 220 leh...havn't washed carb since i bought it..think will help?

Depending on ur riding style la....mine last time was bout 280 to 290 for riding within sgp...then after i use the carb n fuel injector cleaner it last till 330 to 340km b4 reserve la....but on NSh when i do 140-160 (think its bout 10 or 12k rpm) my tank can only last bout 240 before hitting reserve...

[chee_teck]

hi all,

 

i need some help here. My coolant find leak ystrdy. I nit to know the coolant tank (N reserve tank if there is any) capacity so i can use the coolant system sealant i gotten off DIY shops...

 

FYI i am not in Sgp now n my B4 manual in Sgp. Can some kind soul pls sms me the info at 90304704 ? help will be very appreciated...arigato!

 

kenenth

[Eatmanx]

Originally posted by RG@Jun 20 2004, 10:38 AM

Congrats on yur new bike.

 

Regarding the acessories, I've got a question: wat's holding u back?

as usual.... the dough to pay for all that......

 

i need to replace my brake hoses first and also my clutch plates....

 

hmmm....

 

sliders can get from motovation rite.....

belly pan from biketech 21......

engine guard where to get and how much is it???

 

my rear sprockets currently 46 teeth ..... is it standard???

was thinking of downsizing to 42 or 44..... any comments????

what's the standard no. of teeth for the front sprockets...??

 

anyone can copy me the bike manuals????

[chinjoon]

Originally posted by chee_teck@Jun 21 2004, 12:08 PM

hi all,

 

i need some help here. My coolant find leak ystrdy. I nit to know the coolant tank (N reserve tank if there is any) capacity so i can use the coolant system sealant i gotten off DIY shops...

 

FYI i am not in Sgp now n my B4 manual in Sgp. Can some kind soul pls sms me the info at 90304704 ? help will be very appreciated...arigato!

 

kenenth

Yo cheekteck

 

Just today I realise my coolent pump is spoilt and coolent leaks from the pump...

Had to had it change for $100+++++

 

You still need to info?

Engin coolent (including reserve)........ 2170ml (2.3/1.9 US/Imp qi)

[chee_teck]

Got reserve?where is the reserve tank?cant seem to see a greenish fluid container leh...

 

Thanks for the info ya!

i just hantam pour in liow..so far running per normal....few more days er hard to say ler hehe..but the coolant system sealant really work!!

 

Coolant pump spoil?did u just change ur coolant?My radiator fin leak after i change coolant.think the coolant concentration too high until the aluminium deteriorate....possible?

[Guest RG]

Originally posted by chee_teck+Jun 23 2004, 10:43 PM-->

QUOTE (chee_teck @ Jun 23 2004, 10:43 PM)

Got reserve?where is the reserve tank?cant seem to see a greenish fluid container leh...[/b]   Beside the battery

[chee_teck]

Hi guys,

 

Quoted from the Charity ride thread.

 

"Just an update the home has extended the registration date till 25/6.

 

We are currently lookin for ppl who can perform stage acts,good at gardening,oranising games or any other talents.

 

if you do know someone who can or you are up to it. Pls Pm and we will arrange somethin for you.

 

I also welcome any Dry food donatons or any monety donation(cheques preferred) for the children homes."

 

 

And from Chee Teck's post

 

 

There is an ongoing preparation for the charity ride. For more information pls check here:

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forum/index....showtopic=38714

The organisers would like to know the number of bandit owners going for this event.

 

And the details of the event:

 

Date: 27 June 2004

Day: Sunday

Time:0900hrs

Meeting Point: Kallang KFC carpark

Destination: Children home

Weather: Rain or shine (Still go)

Amount to be given: $20 or more

 

Interested list:

1) Kenneth 93897446

2) chinjoon 98213944

3) skybono 97909830

4) riDerz 96283626

5) rocketman

 

Hi guys, I nit to collect money from u guys to pass to the organiser, Ridzuan. Is it possible to meet up on Friday (25th June) nite at Fong Seng 9pm for supper n yum cha? If u cannot make it for tht day u may sms me to arrange time n place to meet u up. Amount to donate is at least $20 (and above). Oso be prepared to get wet n sweat for the event. Heard we going to do some cleaning up of the house