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Posted
Originally posted by _3n3mY_@Jan 8 2005, 05:14 PM

believe most of u have already downloaded the service manual.. in case those who havent, right click the link and choose save target as

CBR1000RR Service Manual

 

i am seeing many ppl selling it as pdf format when we can download it ourselves free .. y waste $$

Tried to download the thing but it will take me at least 12 hrs of computer run time to do it!!

 

Anyone got it on CD ROM? Talk to me.

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Posted
Originally posted by Edwin@Jan 8 2005, 11:07 PM

you mean the brake feel very soft and u almost gonna finish pulling the lever fully in is it?

Air is compressible... fluid is not.

 

What makes the brake system ineffective, meaning having to pull the brake lever all the way in to have some sort of braking effect, can only mean 2 things.

 

One, the master brake cylinder piston ring is worn out... it has compression rings, just like those on the engine cylinder pistons... and they are bypassing fluid instead of sealing them off completely. Due to a scratch on the cylinder bore... which means replacing the whole unit or age hardening of the piston ring (seal) meaning an overhaul of the master cylinder.

 

Two... there is air in the system. Sponginess is the word here.

 

If after a thorough bleeding of the brake system to rid it of all entrapped air still end up with a spongy brake lever... time to look at the master cylinder.

 

If lets say you go on the track, and after a few rounds of hard braking, you feel that your brakes are fading on you.... try bleeding the system.

 

Small bubbles of air entrapped within the calipers tend to expand with heat due to hard braking.... air is compressible. Brake sponginess and/or ineffectiveness is the end result.

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Posted

Not the kinda feeling u guys describe, never had brake fading, it is like i need extra more force to pull in the lever under hard braking, like usually i need only 30% of strength to pull in the brake 30%, under hard braking, i need 50% of strength to pull in 30% of the brake lever. So i was thinking maybe with a 20/19 master pump, would mean 30% of strength can give me the biting force of pulling in maybe 50% of the brake lever. So actually, it means that i m lazy lah. hahaha. I m only gathering some feedback on the brakes lah, not really buying as it still cost a bomb.

Any tips on acheiving good entry speed?

Posted
Originally posted by Ken@Jan 10 2005, 01:51 AM

Not the kinda feeling u guys describe, never had brake fading, it is like i need extra more force to pull in the lever under hard braking, like usually i need only 30% of strength to pull in the brake 30%, under hard braking, i need 50% of strength to pull in 30% of the brake lever. So i was thinking maybe with a 20/19 master pump, would mean 30% of strength can give me the biting force of pulling in maybe 50% of the brake lever. So actually, it means that i m lazy lah. hahaha. I m only gathering some feedback on the brakes lah, not really buying as it still cost a bomb.

Any tips on acheiving good entry speed?

i see..and u are right...it is due to that

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My present rides:

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--------------------------------------------------

Posted
Originally posted by Raptor@Jan 9 2005, 10:42 PM

Air is compressible... fluid is not.

 

What makes the brake system ineffective, meaning having to pull the brake lever all the way in to have some sort of braking effect, can only mean 2 things.

 

One, the master brake cylinder piston ring is worn out... it has compression rings, just like those on the engine cylinder pistons... and they are bypassing fluid instead of sealing them off completely. Due to a scratch on the cylinder bore... which means replacing the whole unit or age hardening of the piston ring (seal) meaning an overhaul of the master cylinder.

 

Two... there is air in the system. Sponginess is the word here.

 

If after a thorough bleeding of the brake system to rid it of all entrapped air still end up with a spongy brake lever... time to look at the master cylinder.

 

If lets say you go on the track, and after a few rounds of hard braking, you feel that your brakes are fading on you.... try bleeding the system.

 

Small bubbles of air entrapped within the calipers tend to expand with heat due to hard braking.... air is compressible. Brake sponginess and/or ineffectiveness is the end result.

How about, brake pad fades, fluid level goes down, therefore you’ll have to pull in more for the same braking power?

Posted
Originally posted by Tashi@Jan 10 2005, 04:35 PM

How about, brake pad fades, fluid level goes down, therefore you’ll have to pull in more for the same braking power?

Yo man, have u checked ur brake pad?

my rear had worn off in 12,000km.

Posted
Originally posted by Ken@Jan 10 2005, 07:15 PM

Yo man, have u checked ur brake pad?

my rear had worn off in 12,000km.

Good point there, Ken.

 

As the brake pad wears... the caliper pistons will need to push further out and the cavity left behind is filled up by brake fluid from your brake reservoir. So your reservoir will drop which is normal.

 

Every time you pull in the brake lever, you are actuating the master brake cylinder piston which in turn will displace a fixed amount (governed by the stroke and bore of the piston) of brake fluid into the brake lines. The brake pads should be just sliding next to the disc when no brake pressure is applied. The initial actuation of the brake lever takes up the space and the pads start to contact the discs and this is when the brake lever starts to fill resistance due to back pressure. This all will happen if there are no air bubbles in the system. If there was air.. the air bubble will be compressed first before any back pressure is felt, hence the sponginess or need to apply more brake lever pressure.

 

Brake fluids have an affinity for water, which is why the warning about not using brake fluid from an open container left standing for a period of time. It draws moisture from the atmosphere, and we in Singapore are at almost 100% Relative Humidity most of the time. It is irrelevant whether you put DOT5.1 fluid or not.. all types of brake fluid suffer from water contamination. Period.

 

Pay particular attention to the clutch and brake fluid colour. Watch out for droplets forming at the bottom of the reservoir. The reservoirs on motorcycles are clear plastics for that very purpose, so that you can see the fluid condition.

 

When it gets discoloured or milky... its time to flush the whole brake system before the moisture in there starts attacking the internal parts, resulting in hardened sealing rings on the piston and corrosion.

 

Ain't worth anything if you have a 300 kmh, 160 BHP rocket which cannot stop in time.

 

Cheers!!!

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Posted
Originally posted by Ken@Jan 10 2005, 07:15 PM

Yo man, have u checked ur brake pad?

my rear had worn off in 12,000km.

Of course I have. When I did my servicing, I think it was 18000km, still have a lot of padding, around 40% to 60%.

 

I ride hard, but I try not to brake hard, usually drifting to slow down, then tap brakes lightly to stop. Can save on tires and brakes. I did do change my front and rear brake fluids, so I don't have that spongy feel.

Posted
Originally posted by Raptor@Jan 9 2005, 10:31 PM

Tried to download the thing but it will take me at least 12 hrs of computer run time to do it!!

 

Anyone got it on CD ROM? Talk to me.

Finished your d/l? If not I can burn for you, just drop by with a CDR.

Posted
Originally posted by Tashi@Jan 11 2005, 08:45 AM

Finished your d/l? If not I can burn for you, just drop by with a CDR.

Thanks for the offer.

Will link up with you on one of the weekends to get this done.

 

Anyway the last time Jerry met me at Motoworld, I was putting the Yoshimura on.

I went back again yesterday to fix on Plot swage steel braided hoses for the brakes. And then I asked them to put on the clear headlight protectors too.

 

I reckon this are the 3 things most needed to be done on the bike, and in the criteria of "Choice between Needs and Wants", I categorise them under needs.

 

Power Commanders, Ohlins, ZG windshields, full leathers are all under 'wants'.

 

No money, don't want them. Got money... then the headache of prioritisation.

 

Ride safe.

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Posted

Dear Mr. xXx,

 

1. We acknowledged receipt of your mail dated 4 January 2005 on the

mentioned subject.

 

2. The fairing was inspected on 27 December 2004 at Boon Siew Singapore Pte

Ltd and our preliminary inspection concluded that the crack was due to

unknown external influences.

 

3. Report on this issue was submitted to Honda Japan for technical

evaluation.

 

4. Our dealer (Mah Pte Limited) reported this issue through teleconversation

and agreed to submit details and photos for our further processing.

 

We will keep you inform on the progress in due course.

 

Regards,

 

vVv

Posted

Hi guys, tonight we're going in for makan, cabon clearing session. Meeting @ GP Esso 8pm. All readers invited to come. I won't be back here to check, so if you're interested, pls make your way there, should be leaving GP Esso by 8:30pm.

Posted
Originally posted by Tashi@Jan 14 2005, 11:18 PM

Dear Mr. xXx,

 

1. We acknowledged receipt of your mail dated 4 January 2005 on the

mentioned subject.

 

2. The fairing was inspected on 27 December 2004 at Boon Siew Singapore Pte

Ltd and our preliminary inspection concluded that the crack was due to

unknown external influences.

 

3. Report on this issue was submitted to Honda Japan for technical

evaluation.

 

4. Our dealer (Mah Pte Limited) reported this issue through teleconversation

and agreed to submit details and photos for our further processing.

 

We will keep you inform on the progress in due course.

 

Regards,

 

vVv

Tashi, need to be cautious here,,,,

I just recieved the warranty card from Boon Siew and was reading the warranty coverage for Cosmetic Paintwork and it says:

 

Cosmetic Paintwork

*Covers your vehicle against the peeling, cracking, discoloration

of the visible surfaces of all painted body panels as a result of

manufacture or material defect and not damaged from environment

or external influences.

This Paint Work warranty requires that the body panels be examined

annually by Boon Siew Singapore usually during the time of the main

service.

 

Did you put frame sliders on your bike that required drilling the fairings?

If you did... are the cracks appearing on the same panel that was drilled?

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Posted

Good look out bro.

 

Mine doesn't have any mods except for the fuel catalyst and K&N, if they're even considered mods. Drilling a hole for the sliders is like drilling a hole through my heart. I will never allow that.

 

This BS Guy is well versed with the warranty clauses I presume, that's why he put it as "unknown external influences", to protect himself.

 

This guy is an accomplished "taichi master" in the pugilistic world, if he claims # 2 spot, no one dares claim # 1.

 

Only a Vulcan's logic will prevail. As Mr. Tuvok would put it, his logic is flawed. (Any trekkies here?)

 

If it's unknown, then how does he know it's due to external influences?

 

Upper and lower cowl are separate pieces, so if you drill lower cowl, it shouldn't affect the upper cowl where the crack is ... or does it? What do you think?

 

Those with a warped tail light cover who didn't manage to get a warranty claim for that can get one from Thunder. There's only one from a crashed RR4. I checked it, that piece is fine. # plate of the RR4 is FR93R. Really bad crash, I hope the rider is ok.

Posted
Originally posted by Tashi@Jan 16 2005, 10:48 PM

Good look out bro.

 

Mine doesn't have any mods except for the fuel catalyst and K&N, if they're even considered mods. Drilling a hole for the sliders is like drilling a hole through my heart. I will never allow that.

 

This BS Guy is well versed with the warranty clauses I presume, that's why he put it as "unknown external influences", to protect himself.

 

This guy is an accomplished "taichi master" in the pugilistic world, if he claims # 2 spot, no one dares claim # 1.

 

Only a Vulcan's logic will prevail. As Mr. Tuvok would put it, his logic is flawed. (Any trekkies here?)

 

If it's unknown, then how does he know it's due to external influences?

 

Upper and lower cowl are separate pieces, so if you drill lower cowl, it shouldn't affect the upper cowl where the crack is ... or does it? What do you think?

 

Those with a warped tail light cover who didn't manage to get a warranty claim for that can get one from Thunder. There's only one from a crashed RR4. I checked it, that piece is fine. # plate of the RR4 is FR93R. Really bad crash, I hope the rider is ok.

That term 'external influences' is a typical motherhood statement which protects the company from bearing any responsibility.

It is going to be interesting what Honda Japan will have to say.

 

With regards to the warped tail light lens issue... I too was worried about the heat that was being generated by the OEM exhaust can after I read what you guys posted in here about it. It retained alot of heat and touching it after a long ride was sure to end with burns.

 

Strangely, after I changed the end can to the street legal titanium Yoshimura (same as Jerry7007's)... the end can be held even after a long ride.

Hey Jerry, go try it and you can vouch for me that I ain't bull crapping about this!!

 

It is amazing that the titanium end can could dissipate the heat so fast!! Don't try putting a finger in the exhaust opening to touch the internal baffle pipe though, that one is really hot. I found out.

 

At least I can now rest assured that the tail lens would not suffer from heat distortion.:thumb:

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Posted

CBR1000RR4 Riders.

 

1) Ken, Red - 97649600, Bukit Panjang

2) Afdah, Black - 96797344, Yishun

3) Tash, Red - 97945018, Central-West

4) Chilly, Black - 96280080 - W'lands

5) jerry7007, Telefonica Movistar - 91169520, Hougang

6) MadMaX Black - 91884352

7) Daniel, White - 90227848, Geylang Bahru

8) Edwin Black - 90091436, Bukit Panjang

9) Ideal1970 - 97333216

10) 3n3my, Black - 96898954, Geylang

11) Eddy, Black - 96780345, Tiong Bahru

2B - Yamaha TZM150, Kawasaki KRR ZX150

2A - Honda CBR400RR FireBlade

2 - Honda CBR1000RR FireBlade

3 - Mitsubishi Lancer 1.6(M)(Sports)

 

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Posted

CBR1000RR4 Riders.

 

1) Ken, Red - 97649600, Bukit Panjang

2) Afdah, Black - 96797344, Yishun

3) Tash, Red - 97945018, Central-West

4) Chilly, Black - 96280080 - W'lands

5) jerry7007, Telefonica Movistar - 91169520, Hougang

6) MadMaX Black - 91884352

7) Daniel, White - 90227848, Geylang Bahru

8) Edwin Black - 90091436, Bukit Panjang

9) Ideal1970 - 97333216

10) 3n3my, Black - 96898954, Geylang

11) Eddy, Black - 96780345, Tiong Bahru

12) Raptor - ?, ?

Posted

CBR1000RR4 Riders.

 

1) Ken, Red - 97649600, Bukit Panjang

2) Afdah, Black - 96797344, Yishun

3) Tash, Red - 97945018, Central-West

4) Chilly, Black - 96280080 - W'lands

5) jerry7007, Telefonica Movistar - 91169520, Hougang

6) MadMaX Black - 91884352

7) Daniel, White - 90227848, Geylang Bahru

8) Edwin Black - 90091436, Bukit Panjang

9) Ideal1970 - 97333216

10) 3n3my, Black - 96898954, Geylang

11) Eddy, Black - 96780345, Tiong Bahru

12) Raptor, Repsol - Serangoon

 

I would like to remain anonymous in here as far as the HP number goes.

Appreciate very much your understanding. Do not hesitate to PM me here if you guys want to contact me or are organising and outing or gathering. I don't mind giving my contact number to you guys but I do not want to show it in this forum for the whole world to see. I have my personal reasons for wanting it this way.

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Posted
Originally posted by Ken@Jan 17 2005, 06:26 PM

CBR1000RR4 Riders.

 

1) Ken, Red - 97649600, Bukit Panjang

Oei u still haven't say that u love mi or not :lovestruck:

Posted

CBR1000RR4 Riders.

 

1) Ken, Red - 97649600, Bukit Panjang

2) Afdah, Black - 96797344, Yishun

3) Tash, Red - 97945018, Central-West

4) Chilly, Black - 96280080 - W'lands

5) jerry7007, Telefonica Movistar - 91169520, Hougang

6) MadMaX Black - 91884352 - Yishun

7) Daniel, White - 90227848, Geylang Bahru

8) Edwin Black - 90091436, Bukit Panjang

9) Ideal1970 - 97333216

10) 3n3my, Black - 96898954, Geylang

11) Eddy, Black - 96780345, Tiong Bahru

12) Raptor, Repsol - Serangoon

Posted
Originally posted by Raptor@Jan 17 2005, 10:38 PM

I would like to remain anonymous in here as far as the HP number goes.

Appreciate very much your understanding. Do not hesitate to PM me here if you guys want to contact me or are organising and outing or gathering. I don't mind giving my contact number to you guys but I do not want to show it in this forum for the whole world to see. I have my personal reasons for wanting it this way.

No worries. Can you sms me your HP #, thanks.

Posted
Originally posted by RayNg@Jan 18 2005, 05:52 PM

u ask me if i miss u or not 1st rite hahah

Go home wash clean clean wait for Ken ok?

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