[Group] Singapore BAJAJ Team (SBT)

[mjbs64]

Thanks MJ bro.

 

This site is awesome. According to it with my stock gears(15/43) and rear tyre(100/90 R17) @ 8000 RPM my speed was 100.4 kms/ hr.

 

Then I changed to Dunlop TT900(100/80R17) which reduced the speed to 97.1 Kms/hr @ 8000 rpm.

 

Then I changed the rear sprocket to 38 that increased the speed to 109.9 kms/hr @ 8000 rpm. Perfect:thumb:

 

 

Lol ... but if you did not change your tyre and stick with 100/90 with your new 15 38T ... for sure you will get better torque and power right ?? .. or I add qoute from your word MORE PERFECT heheheh !!! ... reason why I posted to hint you lah.. lol

 

And behind my reasons too for me at present using BT39SS 120/80, on why I did not go for 14 36T at UM from 14 38T stock but opt for Sinnob 15 39T which give me more stability and comfort with a minimal sacrifies in term of torque and power by a 0.6 - 2.0 margin only @ 6000 - 8000rpm. ... hehehehe at present travelling 85km @ 6000rpm, 98km @ 7000rpm and 112km @ 8000rpm with quiet, smooth and stable engine while still having enough spices with minimal down shift gear at heavy traffic , up slope and tight cornering be with pillion or solo .... hehehehehe .... and oooooohhhhh HOW I LOVED MY P200 SplitFire2010aza day by day !!!! heheheheheh

Edited November 20, 2010 by mjbs64

[mjbs64]

Updated the date below

anyone still interested please add your name below

(for those only just want to do the oiler can indicate your preferred date in the hazard session also. cause can come down on the same day as the hazard session to do concurrently, but your stuff cannot get on sun day itself. the shop open only till sat)

 

 

Hazard Lights DIY Session

 

Date: 28/11/2010(Sunday)

Time: 3pm/2pm for those who want to meet up ealier to get the things from sim lim tower

Place: Carpark opp Ah Boy

 

anymore people interested?

anyway below is the things that need to get for each

arthur, UG2 need to follow your set up for the hazard lights right?

 

 

 

Hazard Light

 

1)fircyber

2)Brandon

3)harumonia

4)husher

5)NoFishes

6)arthur

7)uncle Ismail (P200 Blue)

 

 

Things needed:

1) small switch with 4 pins(pic show 2 pins one,get the 4 pins one, get from sim lim tower)

2) electrical wire (best is those silver wire inside the insulation, if don't have normal red & black wires will do)

3) cable tie

4) ziplock bag(optional, to waterproof your signal relay under your seat)

5) signal relay x 1 (get from ah boy, UG2 not sure need or not

6) connectors for switch x 6 (6 is just nice, you can get more if you want)

7) black tape

8) wire cutter/splicer

9) heat strink (optional, to better water proof your connectors at your switch side or you can also use silicon to seal)

10) scissors

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]182750[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]182749[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]182751[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]182752[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]182753[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]182754[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

Chain Oiler DIY Session

 

anymore people interested?

indicate your name below

below are some things need to get and some things need to consider before start to DIY

Date: 28/11/2010(Sunday)

Time: 3pm (the stuff have to get before sun day cause the shops not open on sunday)

Place:Carpark opp Ah Boy

 

Chain Oiler

 

1)fircyber

2)Lanzer

3)husher

4)arthur

5)

 

Points to consider:

1) need to determine your exact location for your oiler container

2) what type of container do you want to use? (best is those already with an outlet like brake fluid reservoir or medical syringe,if syringe then need a cover for the top to prevent dust from going in and the fluid from spilling out,bottle cap should do the trick, if no outlet need to drill hole then need extra valve/connector)

3) your chain guard is open or close? (closed chain gaurd need to plan more precise how you going to route your tubing cause need to determine how long tubing need to get)

 

Things needed:

1) tubing (recommend to get the 4mm one from the valve shop near ah boy, flow rate just nice, 1m should be enough, you can get more to play safe)

2) control valve (get the metal one from the valve shop behind ah boy,$12.50)

3) container (recommend to use brake fluid reservoir,can get from ah boy small one or get a used old one

4) cable tie (need long and the super small ones

5) pliers

6) scissors

7) silicon sealant

8) flexible metal bracket (optional, depend on where you want to mount your container, you have to decide before hand, some places can just use cable tie)

9) bolts/screws & nut (optional, only if you use the metal bracket then you need this)

10) metal handicraft wire/electrical black & red wire (if using the 4mm tubing the wire dia 1.5mm just nice, can get from diaso those handicraft wire)

 

the pics below show the flexible metal bracket i am talking about and the valve

and tubing can get at Teck Siong Huat Hardware

opp the shop selling bolts and nuts under the hdb flats,behind the coffeeshop opp ah boy

http://www.tecksionghuat.com/

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]182762[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]182763[/ATTACH]

[Ah_Pet]

Hi Guys,

 

Just came back from LAB. I have changed my both sprockets and chain. The stock ratio was 15/43 and the new ratio is 15/38. Chain is DID 428 roller chain. I believe it is standard non o-ring chain. Installation was quite straightforward and no mod was required. Total cost including installation 35$.

 

I havent got a chance to test the top speed and rpm at that speed as CTE had quite heavy traffic. But I could clearly notice that now gear shifting has to be delayed, I couldnt shift to 5th gear below 60 kmph, I was pillioning my wife BTW. The gear shift is now slightly harder. Also,Earlier when I would accelerate, both the RPM needle and speedo needle would move up in parallel but now the RPM needle lags behind, kinda looks odd

 

Here are some pics of the front and rear stock sprockets.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]183817[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]183818[/ATTACH]

 

so cheap with DID chian?

think is a super good deal

[revhappy]

so cheap with DID chian?

think is a super good deal

 

Its DID standard roller chain, bro which I think is cheaper than the o-ring DID chain.

P180 UG2 & UG3 come with non o-ring chains which need more lubrication than o-ring chains in P200 & P180 UG4 thats why they have full chain cover. Also the chains in P200 & P180 Ug4 are different pitch 520 compared to P180 UG2 & UG3 which have a pitch of 428.

 

Also there are x-ring DID chains that are even more expensive as they require even less maintenance.

[revhappy]

Lol ... but if you did not change your tyre and stick with 100/90 with your new 15 38T ... for sure you will get better torque and power right ?? .. or I add qoute from your word MORE PERFECT heheheh !!! ... reason why I posted to hint you lah.. lol

 

And behind my reasons too for me at present using BT39SS 120/80, on why I did not go for 14 36T at UM from 14 38T stock but opt for Sinnob 15 39T which give me more stability and comfort with a minimal sacrifies in term of torque and power by a 0.6 - 2.0 margin only @ 6000 - 8000rpm. ... hehehehe at present travelling 85km @ 6000rpm, 98km @ 7000rpm and 112km @ 8000rpm with quiet, smooth and stable engine while still having enough spices with minimal down shift gear at heavy traffic , up slope and tight cornering be with pillion or solo .... hehehehehe .... and oooooohhhhh HOW I LOVED MY P200 SplitFire2010aza day by day !!!! heheheheheh

 

Yeah, I got the hint But I had changed my tyres immediately after getting my bike and at that time Stock size was not available. I was thinking bigger tyres means better grip but heavier also so lesser FC and at that time I had no idea that it will affect my gearing. So this time while choosing sprocket I compensated that by choosing 15/38, instead of 15/40. I could have gone for 15/36 also I guess but didnt want to risk it

[Lanzer]

Anyone using Alphinestars S1 gloves?

Can share some review / price on it?

[Ah_Pet]

Anyone using Alphinestars S1 gloves?

Can share some review / price on it?

 

wa. wan buy so nice gloves liao ah?

[glzco]

hi all!!! i'm still studying.. hahaha.. hope everyone is well and ride safe!! back to my mugging...

[Lanzer]

wa. wan buy so nice gloves liao ah?

 

Looking around for a more durable and offer better protection glove.

Must be affordable too, around S$60.

You got recommendations?

[mjbs64]

Looking around for a more durable and offer better protection glove.

Must be affordable too, around S$60.

You got recommendations?

 

HVC got his RS Taichi gloves @ $50+ @ Moto world !! Mine $60+ used 1.5 years out of curiosity when first time bought it till now not a single tear, still good and durable.

Imho .. if you have to spend around $100 and to have RS Taichi models are still worth the money as the quality and workmanship are really superb ... Quality items does make a difference ... hehehehehe

 

Same with me on tight budget but yet have to get a protective gears for my wife heheheh soon .. unfair lah if I got mine but for her just normal jacket hehehee ... so if anything happens in case of simple drop or worst , I do not want her to get scratch !!! Think from the box yeah ... pillion safety first priority cos they are the last to react if ???????? !!!!

Edited November 21, 2010 by mjbs64

[robertyue]

This is my first article for the SBT. Please do forgive if there's any spelling or other mistakes

 

ABA HANAN asked me about the oil cooler on Pegasus (orginally P180 UG3), and I wish it my article would help any questions and wonders on the work of oil cooler on P180 UG3 / UG4. Let's start, shall we?

 

Let us review about the work of some cooling system:

 

Oil cooling system is one of three mainly used cooling systems on motorcycles (air cooling, water cooling, and oil cooling). Pulsar family use air cooling (P180) and air + oil cooling (P200, P220). Air cooling system uses fins on engine blocks which spread the heat because of engine works to the fins and let air cools it away.

 

Water cooling system uses specially designed engine blocks with, umm, water tunnel? which the coolant would flow around the block and get into the radiator to be cooled by air, while oil cooling system takes out the hot oil from engine to radiator and return the cooled oil into the engine.

 

Although the purpose of the three cooling system are roughly the same, that is to maintain good engine running condition, but how and where they work are quite different. Air cooling and water cooling system is the closest in working process as they cool off engine block. Oil cooling system work by cooling the oil, thus maintaining the oil "viscosity". Oil is used by internal combustion engine parts as lubrication and creates a separating film between surfaces of adjacent moving parts to minimize direct contact between them, decreasing heat caused by friction and reducing wear, thus protecting the engine. In use, motor oil transfers heat through convection as it flows through the engine by means of air flow over the surface of the oil pan. Good oil viscosity ensures our engines to run smoothly in most of road condition.

 

What is the important thing about oil cooling system? Unlike the engine block which get cooled off from air / water coolant, sometimes oil pan doesn't cool the oil enough and the engine get hot. The heat cause oil viscosity to lower, means more frictions, less engine protection and more energy wasted.

 

So what is the important issue that we need to install oil cooling system on Pulsar 180? Pulsar 180, which rests solely on air cooling system, sometimes can get pretty heated up (to 150 degree Celsius on a hot daylight cruising). At this rate if you force your engine further, you can feel your engine characteristic changed, and the worst a power loss because of overheating (I've ran through this before). We often see big bikes have two radiators in front of the engine, the upper is water coolant radiator, and the lower is oil cooler radiator. Aesthetic purpose? Nope, they know that combining both cooling system, they can get maximum support to keep their engine running smooth and fast, and I mean FAST!

 

So, when you should opt for oil cooling system for your beloved Pulsar 180?

1. When you use your bike long enough on a high temperature environment cruising?

2. When you use your bike for drag often enough?

3. When you feel that heat on your legs?

4. When you have experienced power loss because of overheating?

 

Why not now?

 

So what do you need to build an oil cooling system?

1. An oil cooler radiator.

We should separate water coolant radiator and oil cooler radiator, though they are has the same material, slight the same design, but they are different. Oil has different viscosity with water coolant, and for maximum effect we should use oil cooler radiator for oil. Now the questions is which radiator fits P180 best?

 

NOTE: Oil cooler radiator doesn't need to be big like water coolant radiator. It is true that bigger radiator ensures more area to be in impact with wind, but bigger radiator means more oil volume addition and harder work for the oil pump. The most important thing is the oil circulation is constant so hot oil gradually get replaced by cool oil.

 

a. We can use P200 oil cooler radiator (which you guys have known). It has perfect dimension I said, but the cons is the nipple for inlet and outlet pipe configuration is horizontal which can be pretty hard to attach a custom pipe / hose.

PARTS NUMBER: 52DK0048

b. We can use Suzuki Underbone F150 radiator, it is slightly smaller than P200 radiator but still good enough.

c. We can use a medium-level big bike OEM oil cooler radiator like Bandit400, CB400, XJR400. It is slight bigger. If you plan to use an used part, please make sure there are no leak / broken fins.

http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww272/robertyue/Pegasus%202010/P1010937.jpg

An XJR 400 OEM Oil Cooler Radiator

 

2. An inlet / outlet pipe or hose.

Pipe pros: most are made up of aluminum which is stronger stand to corrosion and extreme heat.

Pipe cons: hard to modify and adjust the position, can get broken when bike falls

Hose pros: cheaper, easier to get, flexible and easier to modify and adjust the position

Hose cons: hose surface is prom to get scratched / damaged.

 

http://www.google.co.id/imglanding?q=pulsar+200+oil+cooler&um=1&hl=id&client=firefox&sa=N&rls=com.yahoo:en-US:official&tbs=isch:1&tbnid=F_2uVdebI65MnM:&imgrefurl=http://www.videogamesindonesia.com/forum/showthread.php%253Ft%253D58661%2526page%253D20&imgurl=http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/7573/img0863in3.jpg&zoom=1&w=800&h=600&iact=hc&ei=WfjoTIepLsaecL74naQK&oei=WfjoTIepLsaecL74naQK&esq=1&page=1&tbnh=140&tbnw=199&start=0&ved=1t:429,r:30,s:0&biw=1920&bih=856

 

If you plan to use hose, make sure that it is special hose for oil with high temperature and pressure. And for both pipe and hose, you should use the correct size to maintain the correct oil pressure trough out the oil cooling circulation.

 

http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww272/robertyue/Pegasus%202010/P1010942.jpg

High pressure oil hose

 

3. Four banjo fittings

One for crank to inlet, one for inlet to radiator, one for radiator to outlet and last one from outlet to engine. These banjo should be accompanied by o-ring and in perfect size and fit with inlet to prevent leakage.

http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww272/robertyue/Pegasus%202010/P1010939.jpg

Banjo fittings

 

Here are the price of the parts of oil cooling system in Indonesia:

Parts number / Parts name / Price (IDR)

52DK0048 / P200 OIL COOLER ASSLY WITH MESH =419,200

DK101238 / P200 ASSEMBLY OIL PIPE = 21,300

DK101275 / P200 ASSEMBLY PIPE INLET OIL COOLER = 87,400

DK101276 / P200 ASSEMBLY PIPE OUTLET OIL COOLER = 80,400

DK101235 / P200 BANJO OIL COOLER PIPE = 6,600

DK101340 P200 'O' RING (OIL COOLER PIPE) 1,400

DK101236 P200 BOLT SPECIAL BANJO OIL COOLER 4,200

none Suzuki F150 underbone oil cooler with pipe 500,000

none High pressure oil hose 3/8" x 1m + 4 banjo 200,000

none Yamaha XJR OEM oil radiator 750,000

All of the price above do not include shipping fee and assembly fee.

Today's rate 1 SGD = 7,007.4 IDR

 

After you prepare the parts, the next thing you need to know is there are two ways of oil cooling circulation:

1. Crank-to-crank

This system is adopted by P200 and P220. Hot oil is taken from crank by inlet, up to radiator, and cool oil delivered back to crank by outlet. This system require the oil pump on the inside to pump the cool oil through out the combustion room

2. Crank-to-head

This system is adopted by several small sized engine bikes. Hot oil is taken from crank by inlet, up to the radiator, and cool oil delivered back to head by outlet. This system uses the oil tunnel from head to run down cool oil through the combustion room.

 

For P180, a crank-to-head system is recommended considering:

1. The location of P180 oil pump in the right crank

2. The availability of oil tunnel on head and block

3. The less work needed by oil pump if the cool oil runs down from head

 

Lots of Pulsar 180 in Surabaya, Indonesia have used this crank-to-head system, including me. It is well proven. There are rumors of an India Pulsar blog which install oil cooler on P180 using crank-to-crank system by replacing P180's right crank cover with P200's. But no reports afterward, I tried to track the blog via google but can not find it.

 

Now, the final thing is the assembly process. The process will require lathe processing on right crank cover and head for banjo installation. So you would like to find your self a professional engineer and engine workshop for this project. The project cost would depends on the engineer.

http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww272/robertyue/Pegasus%202010/P1010938.jpg

Right crank banjo fittings

http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww272/robertyue/Pegasus%202010/P1010940.jpg

Head banjo fittings

 

AFTER INSTALLATION MANUAL:

1. You would like to do a short run test on a hot daylight first time you get your bike out from the workshop, run it fast, slow, stop, go, to look if there are any oil leak in any condition. Oil leak can be detected by smell / smoke from burnt oil or any oil droplets on the road. Check the area close to the banjo fittings, especially on crank cover and head. If it went well, there would be no engine characteristic change and your engine should be a lot cooler than before. If not, return immediately to workshop for thorough inspection.

2. You would like to do a long term test from the first week to a month of usage. Check if there are any changes in oil level, any oil droplets on your garage floor, or even if the engine gets hot again. If there's something you don't feel right, take it to the garage for minor/major inspections.

 

Things to be improved:

1. Remember that all three cooling systems use wind/air as main cooling agent. So, it won't work if the bike is stopping (like lots of stop on city ride). The addition of a fan behind the radiator would do great, the fan will suck in some air from the front of radiator and exhaust it behind. Some aftermarket made radiator includes this fan which is electrically controlled by a thermostat. And because the heat of the radiator, a steel fan is required. We're still working on the DIY fan

2. A thermostat on the oil cooler assembly is useful not only to operate fan, but also for additional temperature indicators. It should be able to be installed if P180 using P200 digital speed-o-meter, or a custom indicator.

 

Now, there it is. Hope this articles is easy to understand and can help P180 owner to improve their bike durability. I would gladly answer any question besides the installation details ('cause I got help from BAJAJ official Service Centre on this project). Thanks to SBT for the chances to be a member of the forum and post this article, ABA HANAN and GABAN who introduced me to all Singaporean Pulsar enthusiast, and for all of us who shared these knowledge

[mjbs64]

Hmmmmm ... when nothing to do and can't wait the date 1 July 2011 hehehehe

 

The Best of Optimus Prime

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XctuVzwERe4

 

 

"Continuously energized one needs great power to produce both good and evil but to do good one needs much more because goodness is to evil like building is to destroying the first is much more demanding than the second; good and evil are in the hands of the powerful"

Optimus Prime : Revenge Of The Fallen / Dark Moon

 

and if you don't like Transformers ... hmmm who care hahahahahahaa

Edited November 22, 2010 by mjbs64

[speedaddict]

uncle when does the rubber cuppling arrive?

[mjbs64]

uncle when does the rubber cuppling arrive?

 

 

I have not order yet cos the 6 holes have a some difficulties ... I'm waiting for 'someone' to pass me the ori to send to Indon to make it more precise ... alternative if I can't get it from anywhere then I have to bring in 1 ONLY for sample! .. sorry for not updating earliear ... buzzzzzy lah .. but will do the rest of the Rubber Coupling MO soon hehehehe ... promise is a promise hahahahaah .

For those who is still interested just let me know and will update.

[alvinyansg]

Hmmmmm ... when nothing to do and can't wait the date 1 July 2011 hehehehe

 

The Best of Optimus Prime

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XctuVzwERe4

 

 

"Continuously energized one needs great power to produce both good and evil but to do good one needs much more because goodness is to evil like building is to destroying the first is much more demanding than the second; good and evil are in the hands of the powerful"

Optimus Prime : Revenge Of The Fallen

 

and if you don't like Transformers ... hmmm who care hahahahahahaa

 

should not call best

should be called death of optimus prime...

haha...

[mjbs64]

should not call best

should be called death of optimus prime...

haha...

 

aiyoh ... clips ended b4 death ma .... heheheeh

[mjbs64]

hmmmmm maybe tmr morning pay a visit to UM .... Transformers Fever lah hehehe ... my low beam starts again shoot up!! Similar case last year when Transformers 2 season, my SplitFire acted like Bumblebee .. using his beam to call fellow Autobots in the 1st Transformers hahahaahaha

 

For last year not so worry cos using stock light, but now with NightBreaker, I don't want the other road users tag me as Decepticons hehehehehehee

[alvinyansg]

Updated the date below

anyone still interested please add your name below

(for those only just want to do the oiler can indicate your preferred date in the hazard session also. cause can come down on the same day as the hazard session to do concurrently, but your stuff cannot get on sun day itself. the shop open only till sat)

 

*Please indicate if you are coming early to meet at 2pm. So that i will have a rough idea how many to meet.*

 

 

Hazard Lights DIY Session

 

Date: 28/11/2010(Sunday)

Time: 3pm/2pm for those who want to meet up ealier to get the things from sim lim tower

Place: Carpark opp Ah Boy

 

anymore people interested?

anyway below is the things that need to get for each

arthur, UG2 need to follow your set up for the hazard lights right?

 

 

 

Hazard Light

 

1)fircyber

2)Brandon

3)harumonia

4)husher

5)NoFishes

6)arthur

7)uncle Ismail (P200 Blue)

 

 

Things needed:

1) small switch with 4 pins(pic show 2 pins one,get the 4 pins one, get from sim lim tower)

2) electrical wire (best is those silver wire inside the insulation, if don't have normal red & black wires will do)

3) cable tie

4) ziplock bag(optional, to waterproof your signal relay under your seat)

5) signal relay x 1 (get from ah boy, UG2 not sure need or not

6) connectors for switch x 6 (6 is just nice, you can get more if you want)

7) black tape

8) wire cutter/splicer

9) heat strink (optional, to better water proof your connectors at your switch side or you can also use silicon to seal)

10) scissors

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]182750[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]182749[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]182751[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]182752[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]182753[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]182754[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

Chain Oiler DIY Session

 

anymore people interested?

indicate your name below

below are some things need to get and some things need to consider before start to DIY

Date: 28/11/2010(Sunday)

Time: 3pm (the stuff have to get before sun day cause the shops not open on sunday)

Place:Carpark opp Ah Boy

 

Chain Oiler

 

1)fircyber

2)Lanzer

3)husher

4)arthur

5)

 

Points to consider:

1) need to determine your exact location for your oiler container

2) what type of container do you want to use? (best is those already with an outlet like brake fluid reservoir or medical syringe,if syringe then need a cover for the top to prevent dust from going in and the fluid from spilling out,bottle cap should do the trick, if no outlet need to drill hole then need extra valve/connector)

3) your chain guard is open or close? (closed chain gaurd need to plan more precise how you going to route your tubing cause need to determine how long tubing need to get)

 

Things needed:

1) tubing (recommend to get the 4mm one from the valve shop near ah boy, flow rate just nice, 1m should be enough, you can get more to play safe)

2) control valve (get the metal one from the valve shop behind ah boy,$12.50)

3) container (recommend to use brake fluid reservoir,can get from ah boy small one or get a used old one

4) cable tie (need long and the super small ones

5) pliers

6) scissors

7) silicon sealant

8) flexible metal bracket (optional, depend on where you want to mount your container, you have to decide before hand, some places can just use cable tie)

9) bolts/screws & nut (optional, only if you use the metal bracket then you need this)

10) metal handicraft wire/electrical black & red wire (if using the 4mm tubing the wire dia 1.5mm just nice, can get from diaso those handicraft wire)

 

the pics below show the flexible metal bracket i am talking about and the valve

and tubing can get at Teck Siong Huat Hardware

opp the shop selling bolts and nuts under the hdb flats,behind the coffeeshop opp ah boy

http://www.tecksionghuat.com/

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]182762[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]182763[/ATTACH]

[alvinyansg]

hmmmmm maybe tmr morning pay a visit to UM .... Transformers Fever lah hehehe ... my low beam starts again shoot up!! Similar case last year when Transformers 2 season, my SplitFire acted like Bumblebee .. using his beam to call fellow Autobots in the 1st Transformers hahahaahaha

 

For last year not so worry cos using stock light, but now with NightBreaker, I don't want the other road users tag me as Decepticons hehehehehehee

 

is it your headlight screw?

[ORen]

hey guys, electrical project still on the way , for those who helped me figure it out, apparently the tail and license plate lights are not on DC12V , but the headlight is.

 

So my previous "Distribution block" project works now with tapping to the headlight. I have not installed everything yet, because I want now to give some accessories who will be plugged to the distribution block the possibility to be controlled by their own switch.

 

So I created a DIY "Switch Panel" and I added to it in the back a double USB port to use to charge my iPhone or any other device while on the road. USB port is also controlled by a switch.

 

These are 2 pictures of where I am so far, still need to change last switch to blue (What, I like having different colors ), solder the USB wires, and run all the switches back to the distribution block.

The switch box will be placed under the windshield, on the speedo, on the right, where currently I have my Voltmeter. I'll move the voltmeter to the middle cause it's smaller.

 

http://i55.tinypic.com/2hhhcwh.jpg

 

http://i52.tinypic.com/28ilowg.jpg

 

Of course this is all homemade with often not the right tools so it's not professional DIY stuff like those ADV genius people who have workshops and talent at home :cheeky:

 

Just trying to make something that works, is safely wired, and can give me more options on the bike, so don't pay attention to all the details that scream "just-anyhow-DIY" :P:P:P

[ORen]

Hazard Lights DIY Session

 

Chain Oiler DIY Session

 

I'll be joining but I don't want the Oiler and already have the hazard lights. So will just come to spend time with everyone, chit chat and help where I can !

And also take photos

 

hi all!!! i'm still studying.. hahaha.. hope everyone is well and ride safe!! back to my mugging...

 

Hope your exams or whatever you study for will go well

Be back here soon, no one is gonna say it but we miss you a little bit

[ORen]

midnight double bubble -ish.

[mjbs64]

is it your headlight screw?

 

yes ... starting to loose again after I made adjustment to have the light shoots at e prefered angle I wanted ... hahah

Talking abt e head light, yeah my NightBreaker doing great from stock no doubt there seem to be a small burning mark on the projector but not that so critical and obvious to the extent of melting .. heheheeh. ... oh heard there's a new Osram NightBreaker Plus but went down to Autobac but seems they are not aware of the product. ..... sigh

 

Anyway tmr will open and see since I'm going to UM to change e carb diaphragm too.

Edited November 21, 2010 by mjbs64

[mjbs64]

midnight double bubble -ish.

 

hmmmmm .. wat ever you are trying to achieve with your electricals stuffs.. just be very cautious.

 

Firstly .... as long as your warranty is over, do what ever you think is necessary for your shadow if it's worth to do so.

Secondly ... we don't want any bad things happen to your shadow and you too lah ... hehehe

 

Just for info ...

1: recently LTA stated there's an increase in numbers of vehicles on fire on the road due to unnecessary modification on electricals parts.

2: It happened to my eldest brother's phantom too, in the middle of the night, his bike for nothing on fire at the cp while he was sleeping. Police came knocking his door to inform him. Investigation stated due to short circuit from faulty electrical parts although he did not mess around with his bike.

 

Knowing and seeing his bike condition makes me worries too ......

 

All the best to you and your shadow ......

[ORen]

Very good point MJ, thank you. I agree this is serious and needs a lot of attention. I am being very careful with my wires, as a matter of fact decided today to go get a soldering gun thingy to solder some of the wires as i don't really trust the connectors with smaller cables.

I use at least 18guage cables or bigger. Will make sure to run the wires according to the stock wiring for best protection from heat and water.

 

For your nightbreaker plus, is this what you want: http://www.powerbulbs.com/product_detail.asp?prod=111

It's free shipping worldwide , I don't know how much they would sell it in Autobacs but $50 for 2 bulbs sounds about right no ?