CDC Bike Learner

[tabby]

Thanks for the info xeno.

 

Do you think they will be fine with me using black leather gloves then?

 

Oh ya i have another qn, what is engine braking??

I used to think that it is just the act of closing the throttle.

 

Also, u know when u stop before a white line at the left turn for example. You have to check ur blind spot then inch forward abit to check right before checking left and moving off?

 

For the inching forward, is it a must to open a bit of throttle and lift both legs to move the bike in front? Can i just inch forward slowly with my left leg dangling or will get penalised? Because at that slow speed i find it hard to balance with both legs up.

[Xenophobia07]

Thanks for the info xeno.

 

Do you think they will be fine with me using black leather gloves then?

 

Oh ya i have another qn, what is engine braking??

I used to think that it is just the act of closing the throttle.

 

Also, u know when u stop before a white line at the left turn for example. You have to check ur blind spot then inch forward abit to check right before checking left and moving off?

 

For the inching forward, is it a must to open a bit of throttle and lift both legs to move the bike in front? Can i just inch forward slowly with my left leg dangling or will get penalised? Because at that slow speed i find it hard to balance with both legs up.

 

You'll be fine with the Black Gloves. I used the 219 Riding gloves from 219 shop (About $20 if I remembered correctly), all the way till Class 2. No problems. Comfortable too.

 

Engine Braking is not closing the throttle. Engine Braking is when you're in Gear 3, you fully clutch in and kick down to Gear 2, when you slowly release your Clutch, you'll realise that the engine will slow down, because its adjusting to the new Gear (Which is lower), even though you didn't touch your throttle.

 

Let's say you're turning left, there are 3 scenarios.

1) You are the 1st Bike at the White Line, and No Wall is blocking your view.

Before moving off, you'll need to check back Right First, then you check your blind spot, then you move off and make the turn.

 

2) You are the 1st Bike at the White Line, and A Wall is block your view.

Before moving off, you'll need to check back Right First, then inch forward (Half your bike pass the White Line) and come to a stop. Then you check your Right again, then your blind spot before moving off and make the turn.

 

3) You are 2nd bike onwards, and there might or might not be a wall block your view

Before moving off, you'll need to check back Right First, then inch forward till you become the 1st bike. From here, refer back to either Scenario 1 or Scenario 2 and follow accordingly.

 

For inching forward, your Right leg will never be down to begin with. If you're moving only 1 bike length or inching forward pass the white line, it is not necessary to lift your left leg to put on the Footpeg (But your Left Leg must still be lifted, meaning it shouldn't be touching the ground). If you're moving about 2 bike lengths or more, get your left leg onto the Footpeg. Remember, your right leg will NEVER touch the ground from the start of the TP to the end of the TP.

[darky]

addons

 

Engine braking consist of closing throttle. remember E-brake uses 3 brakes.

 

by closing throttle, u are already slowing down your bike, which is engine braking.

 

and if u are at a high rpm at either gear, its not advisable to just drop a gear and release the clutch, or even slowly releasing. u will close ur throttle, apply front and rear brakes, lowering the rpm, THEN u drop the gear, and slowly releasing the clutch for a smoother braking.

[Fire_Blade]

Please remember, don't hit your rear brakes too hard. Like what the instructors say, 70% front brakes, 30% rear brakes. Pressing the rear brakes too hard will cause the back wheels to lock, causing the bike to skid. Most of us aren't trained in motorcross races so chances are we will fall. The severity of the injury depends on the nature of your fall, so don't risk it. This is especially so during the e-brake.

[Fire_Blade]

The gloves sold at the counter where you top of your student's account sells durian gloves. But if you go to the shop just right at the other end of the registration area, where magazines and misc stuffs are sold, they sell better quality gloves also for $1. At least they don't look like durian gloves.

[nudgedoink]

guys can i ask u how important is road revision? cos i have a very hectic schedule now and i cant seem to get the timeslots i need for road revision. hope this wont affect how well i do in the test

[Xenophobia07]

guys can i ask u how important is road revision? cos i have a very hectic schedule now and i cant seem to get the timeslots i need for road revision. hope this wont affect how well i do in the test

 

Personally, I think its individual preference on its importance. Mainly, the Circuit requires more practice. However, Road Revision has the U-Turn factor as well as filtering in other Cars, which actually, you'll need to have some practice with, to feel the wrath of Singapore Drivers & Riders!

[nudgedoink]

oh.. i guess i didnt phrase my question properly. what i wanted to ask is lets say i screw up on the road but no immediate failure.. the points add up most probably wont fail right? unlike circuit can get alot of points.. btw the passing mark is to get 18 points and below or below 18? meaning the maximum amount of points can get is 17 or 18?

[Fire_Blade]

oh.. i guess i didnt phrase my question properly. what i wanted to ask is lets say i screw up on the road but no immediate failure.. the points add up most probably wont fail right? unlike circuit can get alot of points.. btw the passing mark is to get 18 points and below or below 18? meaning the maximum amount of points can get is 17 or 18?

 

Max is 18. 1 more tick anywhere and it's a goner, since each tick is at least 2 points.

 

Technically, the circuit is highly monitored as many eyes are on you, so you can hardly escape when you make a slight mistake. Once you are out on the road, and you don't **** up too much pior to that, you should be on the way to passing. Out there, the TPs are situated at junctions. In other words, for e.g. the stretch of road which leads to the U-turn, has no TP at all. But of course, don't change lane too late or too early as they might still be able to see when you are not too far off from the junction.

 

Just chill when you are on the road, of course don't ride like you have passed. If you need confirmation, probably go for at least 1 road revision before the actual test. Good luck!

[Darkness19]

anyone taking their cls2 tis AUG at CDC ????

[tabby]

Another noob question guys, u see ive been very afraid of opening my throttle when moving off.

 

I realise that it was the cause of my wobbliness when moving off all this while...

 

So for the yamaha ybr bikes in cdc, wat is the optimal rev range when moving off without wobbling? 3-4k??

 

I can move off nicely now, but I still think it sounds a little too loud and annoying and was thinking if you guys actually manage to do it at a lower rev.

[tabby]

Anyway thanks for the advice so far guys I really appreciate it.

 

You guys are definitely not the typical beng/mat profiles that this forum is infested with.

[Xenophobia07]

Another noob question guys, u see ive been very afraid of opening my throttle when moving off.

 

I realise that it was the cause of my wobbliness when moving off all this while...

 

So for the yamaha ybr bikes in cdc, wat is the optimal rev range when moving off without wobbling? 3-4k??

 

I can move off nicely now, but I still think it sounds a little too loud and annoying and was thinking if you guys actually manage to do it at a lower rev.

 

Its hard to say for the "optimal" RPM. Its more like playing with the Clutch more than the Throttle. You can even move off without throttling. Slowly controlling at the Biting Point, then throttle. For this, its best if you try out during Revisions with as many bikes as possible. If you insist on a value, then 2k to 4k RPM is good enough.

[honda_lover]

Its hard to say for the "optimal" RPM. Its more like playing with the Clutch more than the Throttle. You can even move off without throttling. Slowly controlling at the Biting Point, then throttle. For this, its best if you try out during Revisions with as many bikes as possible. If you insist on a value, then 2k to 4k RPM is good enough.

 

 

hahaha. must listen to lao jiao... had seen lots of advices from him =]

 

hmm. you can also try this... once u hop onto a bike. engage gear try to find the biting point when u see the rpm drops you can start to throttle...

or also throttle abit first then release clutch till it starts to move.. the use scissors action. release clutch. throttle more =]

 

hmm.. why the more i type it seems more like shi fu's advice ? hahahahas!

[pipatel]

Ya i often use the idling speed of the motorcycle without any throttling to inch forward albeit at a freaking snail speed.

 

I don't understand how is clutch playing possible, ive tried at least 4-5 bikes in cdc but the biting point is usually near the end already. So my left hand is usually at a very akward position thus I cant wait to throttle it sufficiently so that i can release it totally and get out of that weird eagle claw hand positioning.

 

If im gonna find biting point first before throttling,

 

noob skill + left hand eagle claw + slow speed = comfirm wobble maybe even fall

[Fire_Blade]

Ya i often use the idling speed of the motorcycle without any throttling to inch forward albeit at a freaking snail speed.

 

I don't understand how is clutch playing possible, ive tried at least 4-5 bikes in cdc but the biting point is usually near the end already. So my left hand is usually at a very akward position thus I cant wait to throttle it sufficiently so that i can release it totally and get out of that weird eagle claw hand positioning.

 

If im gonna find biting point first before throttling,

 

noob skill + left hand eagle claw + slow speed = comfirm wobble maybe even fall

 

Chill. You are putting too much pressure of yourself. Practise makes perfect, you just need more time to understand the bikes. What I used to do was opening the throttle and releasing the clutch at the same time, get the biting point, then throttle more and release clutch more.

 

In any case, every bikes' biting point is different. So once you mount the bike, it's good to familiarise yourself with the characteristics of the ride. Find the right coordination between your right and left hand. Morever, you will still require the eagle claw and proper throttle control on the narrow plank.

 

Don't fret too much about falling. You won't so long as you throttle enough, but of course, don't corner too low.

[Xenophobia07]

hahaha. must listen to lao jiao... had seen lots of advices from him =]

 

hmm. you can also try this... once u hop onto a bike. engage gear try to find the biting point when u see the rpm drops you can start to throttle...

or also throttle abit first then release clutch till it starts to move.. the use scissors action. release clutch. throttle more =]

 

hmm.. why the more i type it seems more like shi fu's advice ? hahahahas!

 

Don't say it that way. In fact, I'm riding Automatic Bike now.

[darky]

Another noob question guys, u see ive been very afraid of opening my throttle when moving off.

 

I realise that it was the cause of my wobbliness when moving off all this while...

 

So for the yamaha ybr bikes in cdc, wat is the optimal rev range when moving off without wobbling? 3-4k??

 

I can move off nicely now, but I still think it sounds a little too loud and annoying and was thinking if you guys actually manage to do it at a lower rev.

 

for this, experience speaks. all i can say is, if u can do slope, u can definately move off smoothly one fine day.

[Fire_Blade]

Another noob question guys, u see ive been very afraid of opening my throttle when moving off.

 

I realise that it was the cause of my wobbliness when moving off all this while...

 

So for the yamaha ybr bikes in cdc, wat is the optimal rev range when moving off without wobbling? 3-4k??

 

I can move off nicely now, but I still think it sounds a little too loud and annoying and was thinking if you guys actually manage to do it at a lower rev.

 

Which prac at you at now?

[Fire_Blade]

for this, experience speaks. all i can say is, if u can do slope, u can definately move off smoothly one fine day.

 

When is your TP?

[compfused]

Another noob question guys, u see ive been very afraid of opening my throttle when moving off.

 

I realise that it was the cause of my wobbliness when moving off all this while...

 

So for the yamaha ybr bikes in cdc, wat is the optimal rev range when moving off without wobbling? 3-4k??

 

I can move off nicely now, but I still think it sounds a little too loud and annoying and was thinking if you guys actually manage to do it at a lower rev.

I never realised there was a tachometer..I don't think there was when I was takin practs..I guess the new ones have tachometers..

 

When is your TP?

[darky]

When is your TP?

 

lazy go prac nowadays... damn tiring, and it wastes my time. lol. im a very "to the point" guy. =\

[Fire_Blade]

lazy go prac nowadays... damn tiring, and it wastes my time. lol. im a very "to the point" guy. =\

 

so almost there liao lor... haha

[Fire_Blade]

Anyone knows how much to to pay as a private candidate to take Advanced Theory?

 

I know must open an account, but I forgot how much it costs.

[yenyenpark]

i passed my TP for calss 2A today!!

 

would like to thanks guys from this thread and other who offers me tips and tricks.. esp Clubb and Xeno!! They are helpful when I pm them for advice.. :cheer: