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Which is the dream color for your RVF400??  

427 members have voted

  1. 1. Which is the dream color for your RVF400??

    • Rothmans design.
    • RCV211 style Repsol design.
    • White/blue Moviestar design (older version).
    • Current Blue Moviestar design.
    • Pramac design.
    • Original Is da best.
    • ELF design.
    • Rossi's Yr 2001 NSR500 Nastro Azzuro design.
    • RCV211 Yellow Camel design.
    • Others (specify accordingly).


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Posted
i rather get smth made in factories in usa than a self-owned garage in thailand. :angel:

 

also can... but non legal bo hua la...

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Posted
BTW who here go msia pump petrol using CC one ?

 

I've done this before.

 

Some kiosks allow you to use credit or debit card, but you have to go inside to pay. Some of them have a RM20 minimum purchase limit so if you pump less than that, you need to pay cash.

 

But I know one that allows any amount to be charged to your card.

Co-Moderator for IT -inerary forum

Biker nerd • Windows • Apple Mac • Android user

 

"Kick up your sidestand bro, let's ride..."

Posted
bros i have a query.. I juz got my rvf tdy.. juz wanna know usually the temp of ur bikes, will it stay at a "max" lvl if ride continously?? wat lvl will it normally stays at(using the meter as a guage).. Or will it go up continously also?? thks :angel:

 

mine if goin really slow or jam e most more den 1/2 ABIT .

 

wah... mine went abt 1/3-1/2 like dat.. but coz the traffic wasn't smooth during peak hrs.. will monitor for awhile more ba :D

 

its ok. Thats how normally the temp gauge shld be. just dont hit beyond 3/4 level as safety. whereas if its ljust above C most of the time, ur guage maybe spoilt

 

 

Read this, your coolant line is very very important to the health of your bike.

I'll put this up on my webbie too once it goes live.

 

An RVF has a thermo-activated cooling system. It consists of a coolant line (The mechs in K&T call it coolant-线) consisting of very thick pipes to carry the hot water/coolant, the thermometer/thermostat, and unlike small bikes, it also comes equipped with one fan.

 

In chronological order, here's how everything works:

 

In the coolant line, there is a gadget called the thermostat that's monitoring the temperature of the coolant (or water, whatever's inside). It's a valve. Like a door, it opens to let coolant flow when the engine is hot, and closes when the engine is cool.

 

When the bike is started from cold, the thermostat naturally doesn't open. This is to make the bike warm up quicky to normal operating temperature.

 

Once the thermostat senses that the engine is hot (around 80°C), it will open and let coolant flow.

 

The coolant runs through the line, "collecting" the intense heat from your RVF's power-hungry V4 engine. It then exits from your engines, travels along the pipes, goes through your upper radiator, and then your lower radiator.

 

These radiators are shaped in a way to gather cool air (when you ride) that cools down the coolant liquid as it passes through the 2 radiators. This "cooled" coolant liquid then flows back to cool the engine, and the process starts all over again, looping and looping in the process.

 

So what happens if you're just stopped at the traffic light/jam you say? The coolant gets too hot to even cool down the engine properly. This is why a powerful fan is fitted on the bottom radiator. It acts as an artificial "wind" to cool down the coolant, since you're not moving. And yes, you can hear the fan running if you listen carefully.

 

Not too sure what is a healthy cooling system?

Here are the usual operating specs and gauges of the cooling system that you may find useful:

 

1. Around the half-mark on your thermometer, your thermostat should open and coolant should begins flowing. This is around 80°C

 

2. Under extreme conditions (traffic jam/stopped at traffic light), the fan should switch on at around 3/4.

 

3. With the fan switched on, the temperature should stay (regulated) a little bit below the 3/4 mark, until you move off, that is...

 

4. If it goes beyond 3/4 and goes near the Red mark, something is wrong somewhere. It may either be:

 

a. Your thermostat got jammed shut.

b. Your radiator cap
laow hong
liao. The cap is spoilt and it is actually letting air escape.

c. Your fan didn't automatically switch on because it's spoilt

d. Worse, your fan didn't switch on because all the coolant leaked out and because of this, there's no flowing coolant for your fan to sense that it's hot.

 

For case d) above, if the coolant leak is small, top up with distilled water and make your way to the bikeshop ASAP. If not, opt to have your bike towed. Also, if you happen to have d) and the coolant has already leaked out, the temperature gauge will suddenly drop from high to low, and you will have a noticeable loss of power. Stop the bike immediately and top up/get it towed.

 

CAUTION: Don't use mineral water, the minerals will clog up the thermostat or cooling line gradually. Also, never never ever open up the radiator cap when you've ridden your bike for at least 5 minutes. Scalding hot bubbly fluid will burst out and scald! I kena this situation before.

Co-Moderator for IT -inerary forum

Biker nerd • Windows • Apple Mac • Android user

 

"Kick up your sidestand bro, let's ride..."

Posted
Read this, your coolant line is very very important to the health of your bike.

I'll put this up on my webbie too once it goes live.

 

An RVF has a thermo-activated cooling system. It consists of a coolant line (The mechs in K&T call it coolant-线) consisting of very thick pipes to carry the hot water/coolant, the thermometer/thermostat, and unlike small bikes, it also comes equipped with one fan.

 

In chronological order, here's how everything works:

 

In the coolant line, there is a gadget called the thermostat that's monitoring the temperature of the coolant (or water, whatever's inside). It's a valve. Like a door, it opens to let coolant flow when the engine is hot, and closes when the engine is cool.

 

When the bike is started from cold, the thermostat naturally doesn't open. This is to make the bike warm up quicky to normal operating temperature.

 

Once the thermostat senses that the engine is hot (around 80°C), it will open and let coolant flow.

 

The coolant runs through the line, "collecting" the intense heat from your RVF's power-hungry V4 engine. It then exits from your engines, travels along the pipes, goes through your upper radiator, and then your lower radiator.

 

These radiators are shaped in a way to gather cool air (when you ride) that cools down the coolant liquid as it passes through the 2 radiators. This "cooled" coolant liquid then flows back to cool the engine, and the process starts all over again, looping and looping in the process.

 

So what happens if you're just stopped at the traffic light/jam you say? The coolant gets too hot to even cool down the engine properly. This is why a powerful fan is fitted on the bottom radiator. It acts as an artificial "wind" to cool down the coolant, since you're not moving. And yes, you can hear the fan running if you listen carefully.

 

Not too sure what is a healthy cooling system?

Here are the usual operating specs and gauges of the cooling system that you may find useful:

 

1. Around the half-mark on your thermometer, your thermostat should open and coolant should begins flowing. This is around 80°C

 

2. Under extreme conditions (traffic jam/stopped at traffic light), the fan should switch on at around 3/4.

 

3. With the fan switched on, the temperature should stay (regulated) a little bit below the 3/4 mark, until you move off, that is...

 

4. If it goes beyond 3/4 and goes near the Red mark, something is wrong somewhere. It may either be:

 

a. Your thermostat got jammed shut.

b. Your radiator cap
laow hong
liao. The cap is spoilt and it is actually letting air escape.

c. Your fan didn't automatically switch on because it's spoilt

d. Worse, your fan didn't switch on because all the coolant leaked out and because of this, there's no flowing coolant for your fan to sense that it's hot.

 

For case d) above, if the coolant leak is small, top up with distilled water and make your way to the bikeshop ASAP. If not, opt to have your bike towed. Also, if you happen to have d) and the coolant has already leaked out, the temperature gauge will suddenly drop from high to low, and you will have a noticeable loss of power. Stop the bike immediately and top up/get it towed.

 

CAUTION: Don't use mineral water, the minerals will clog up the thermostat or cooling line gradually. Also, never never ever open up the radiator cap when you've ridden your bike for at least 5 minutes. Scalding hot bubbly fluid will burst out and scald! I kena this situation before.

 

0_0 thks for sharing.. i will monitor it ba.. still new to rvf :D

11-03-16 Passed TP!!! Hoorayy!! :cheer:

Posted
I've done this before.

 

Some kiosks allow you to use credit or debit card, but you have to go inside to pay. Some of them have a RM20 minimum purchase limit so if you pump less than that, you need to pay cash.

 

But I know one that allows any amount to be charged to your card.

 

where? i tried mobil and dam need to pump AT LEAST $30rm . cos i fin dchangin e money a hassle lolz.

 

Read this, your coolant line is very very important to the health of your bike.

I'll put this up on my webbie too once it goes live.

 

An RVF has a thermo-activated cooling system. It consists of a coolant line (The mechs in K&T call it coolant-线) consisting of very thick pipes to carry the hot water/coolant, the thermometer/thermostat, and unlike small bikes, it also comes equipped with one fan.

 

In chronological order, here's how everything works:

 

In the coolant line, there is a gadget called the thermostat that's monitoring the temperature of the coolant (or water, whatever's inside). It's a valve. Like a door, it opens to let coolant flow when the engine is hot, and closes when the engine is cool.

 

When the bike is started from cold, the thermostat naturally doesn't open. This is to make the bike warm up quicky to normal operating temperature.

 

Once the thermostat senses that the engine is hot (around 80°C), it will open and let coolant flow.

 

The coolant runs through the line, "collecting" the intense heat from your RVF's power-hungry V4 engine. It then exits from your engines, travels along the pipes, goes through your upper radiator, and then your lower radiator.

 

These radiators are shaped in a way to gather cool air (when you ride) that cools down the coolant liquid as it passes through the 2 radiators. This "cooled" coolant liquid then flows back to cool the engine, and the process starts all over again, looping and looping in the process.

 

So what happens if you're just stopped at the traffic light/jam you say? The coolant gets too hot to even cool down the engine properly. This is why a powerful fan is fitted on the bottom radiator. It acts as an artificial "wind" to cool down the coolant, since you're not moving. And yes, you can hear the fan running if you listen carefully.

 

Not too sure what is a healthy cooling system?

Here are the usual operating specs and gauges of the cooling system that you may find useful:

 

1. Around the half-mark on your thermometer, your thermostat should open and coolant should begins flowing. This is around 80°C

 

2. Under extreme conditions (traffic jam/stopped at traffic light), the fan should switch on at around 3/4.

 

3. With the fan switched on, the temperature should stay (regulated) a little bit below the 3/4 mark, until you move off, that is...

 

4. If it goes beyond 3/4 and goes near the Red mark, something is wrong somewhere. It may either be:

 

a. Your thermostat got jammed shut.

b. Your radiator cap
laow hong
liao. The cap is spoilt and it is actually letting air escape.

c. Your fan didn't automatically switch on because it's spoilt

d. Worse, your fan didn't switch on because all the coolant leaked out and because of this, there's no flowing coolant for your fan to sense that it's hot.

 

For case d) above, if the coolant leak is small, top up with distilled water and make your way to the bikeshop ASAP. If not, opt to have your bike towed. Also, if you happen to have d) and the coolant has already leaked out, the temperature gauge will suddenly drop from high to low, and you will have a noticeable loss of power. Stop the bike immediately and top up/get it towed.

 

CAUTION: Don't use mineral water, the minerals will clog up the thermostat or cooling line gradually. Also, never never ever open up the radiator cap when you've ridden your bike for at least 5 minutes. Scalding hot bubbly fluid will burst out and scald! I kena this situation before.

 

 

wah thaknks :clap:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs605.snc4/58582_425759858089_606683089_4979174_1311643_n.jpg
Posted

lucky mine nv exceed 3/4 b4.. if not die liao ahhaha..

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs605.snc4/58582_425759858089_606683089_4979174_1311643_n.jpg
Posted

1 more thing i learnt from orange.. if ur engine is hot, u can turn off ur engine by turning the key.. den on again.. should hear the fan turn if its hot :D

11-03-16 Passed TP!!! Hoorayy!! :cheer:

Posted
1 more thing i learnt from orange.. if ur engine is hot, u can turn off ur engine by turning the key.. den on again.. should hear the fan turn if its hot :D

 

eh bro u just need to cut off the engine with the engine switch la.. no need to turn the key so troublesome....

-FuFu-Past & current rides-FuFu-

2003-2003 Honda NSR 150 SP

2004-2006 16 Tons Touring bus

2004-2008 Honda RVF

2008-2011 Yamaha YZF R1"08 model

2011-.... 1098

2007 - .... My dream bike NSR 500!

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh312/qingfu/305144_1865766182720_1797992398_1266312_2076601502_n-1.jpg

Posted
eh bro u just need to cut off the engine with the engine switch la.. no need to turn the key so troublesome....

 

oh.. icic.. lolx.. psps.. i din know that :x Thks fufu :angel:

11-03-16 Passed TP!!! Hoorayy!! :cheer:

Posted
can get... my shop still gt stock... another one is pilot power..

 

if still got stock means keep very long liao.. tires will get harden

 

pilot race even better den pilot power , but if wan lasting , for road use get pilot sport.. good for everyday transport :thumb:

(Mar05) Honda SP 150 FR9470B

(Nov05) Kawasaki KRR 150 FU8637D

(Sep06) Suzuki GSX400 FK7652

(Nov06) Yamaha Sparks135 FBB511H

(Mar07) Honda RVF400 FN4991T

(07-10) Yamaha YZF R6 FBA7370G

(08-09) Suzuki DRZ 400 FBC4821G

Posted
1 more thing i learnt from orange.. if ur engine is hot, u can turn off ur engine by turning the key.. den on again.. should hear the fan turn if its hot :D

 

acutally u can just fix a switch to on ur fan..

 

sometimes jam u can just on the fan all the way to keep ur temp low..

 

to fix the switch around $10 only at shop

 

if DIY den FOC! :thumb:

(Mar05) Honda SP 150 FR9470B

(Nov05) Kawasaki KRR 150 FU8637D

(Sep06) Suzuki GSX400 FK7652

(Nov06) Yamaha Sparks135 FBB511H

(Mar07) Honda RVF400 FN4991T

(07-10) Yamaha YZF R6 FBA7370G

(08-09) Suzuki DRZ 400 FBC4821G

Posted
1 more thing i learnt from orange.. if ur engine is hot, u can turn off ur engine by turning the key.. den on again.. should hear the fan turn if its hot :D

 

ehz... i got teach u meh? duhz.... i learnt from here one... :p

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v832/237/65/1080288838/n1080288838_193877_2103.jpg
Posted

Advisory: Wiring a bypass switch to the cooling fan

 

Guys, sorry if I sound like an a**, but installing a so-called "fan switch" like this gives people a false sense of security.

 

Sure, you can use this switch for troubleshooting purposes (eg. test why the fan does not operate past the 3/4 mark), but what happens when the coolant runs dry? You're just switching on the fan that cools nothing, and the engine overheating can go unnoticed.

 

Also, on the topic on having the fan left on constantly on a healthy RVF on the road:

Engines are supposed to run hot (of course lah, not too hot)

Cold engines are as rigid as food stored the refrigerator...when operated under cold temperatures, wear and tear is faster, the petrol mixture don't combust properly and you get problems such as bike performing lousily, etc...

Same concept as when one doesn't warm up his bike in the morning.

 

I have a lot of friends who have rode RVF's before that do the same thing...install a switch and forget it. :giddy:

Co-Moderator for IT -inerary forum

Biker nerd • Windows • Apple Mac • Android user

 

"Kick up your sidestand bro, let's ride..."

Posted

i believe almost all rvf fan is working normally and u dun need a fan switch la.. if ur fan can on itself when its 3/4 then everything is fine.. if u find ur temperature above 3/4.. very simple.... just open ur throttle and whack ur bike a little :cheeky:

-FuFu-Past & current rides-FuFu-

2003-2003 Honda NSR 150 SP

2004-2006 16 Tons Touring bus

2004-2008 Honda RVF

2008-2011 Yamaha YZF R1"08 model

2011-.... 1098

2007 - .... My dream bike NSR 500!

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh312/qingfu/305144_1865766182720_1797992398_1266312_2076601502_n-1.jpg

Posted
Well, our cai disapproved of this and recommended me to do up a PoloT version 2.

 

Unless you guys wanna poll again?

 

poloT sound good too.. :thumb: :thumb:

_

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s152/kenny_heng/30058a9233303cb7.jpg

Posted
BTW who here go msia pump petrol using CC one ?

 

i tried once in 2nd link petronas was 21RM

and they rebate 5%

_

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s152/kenny_heng/30058a9233303cb7.jpg

Posted
wah... mine went abt 1/3-1/2 like dat.. but coz the traffic wasn't smooth during peak hrs.. will monitor for awhile more ba :D

 

if u find it pretty uncomfortable.... then u cud remove ur thermostat... it wont easily heat up... most of the times it shud b below 1/2 or 1/4... sumtimes in heavy traffic as well...

"What is legal, but not logical, logical, but not legal, and neither logical, nor legal?" Think Abt It...

Posted
want loud ah? buy nelson's ( the beast ) moriwaki twins stack la.

 

sharp and power! lOL.

 

haha i tink his previous yoshi still will sound louder... ridin bside him at times makes u feel pointless buyin a yoshi... (1 of e rider actually said tat 2 him) hahahaha....

"What is legal, but not logical, logical, but not legal, and neither logical, nor legal?" Think Abt It...

Posted
can get... my shop still gt stock... another one is pilot power..

 

 

although it may look like new... they r definitely old stocks... no doubt its a gd trye.. but it might jus start crackin after a few days of usage... better 2 get wat they hav in e current market... :thumb:

"What is legal, but not logical, logical, but not legal, and neither logical, nor legal?" Think Abt It...

Posted
haha i tink his previous yoshi still will sound louder... ridin bside him at times makes u feel pointless buyin a yoshi... (1 of e rider actually said tat 2 him) hahahaha....

 

is he selling his previous yoshi? :cheeky:

_

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s152/kenny_heng/30058a9233303cb7.jpg

Posted

Pilot Race IMO is overkill for usage on local roads, unless u track often..Try using PR vs a PP on a wet weather day in SG and feel the difference.The PR is there for a reason, if you're unable to warm it up to it's ideal operating temperature, it's as good as useless.. :angel:

 

Pilot Power is good enough for street riding and occasional track.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i42/akrapovick4/thedoctor.jpg
Posted
is he selling his previous yoshi? :cheeky:

 

haha nope.... :cheeky:

"What is legal, but not logical, logical, but not legal, and neither logical, nor legal?" Think Abt It...

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