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Posted

Hi everyone! i am a noob here. Just got a super4 vtec 2 for a few days. Wana ask sumting. there is this icon below hiss on the right side that show like aladdin lamp like that. i suspect is engine oil need to top up. So i went bike shop to do it but later still the icon got light up. what probably the reason? also does anyone have super4 owner manual for sharing/download? Thanks lots guys.

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Posted
there is this icon below hiss on the right side that show like aladdin lamp like that.

i forgot wats on the whole meter liao, y u didnt ask the mech wat is it for?

But I am pressing the clutch lever at 100%, so I wait until my rpm goes down to 2,500 rpm then I shift to 2nd gear.

 

There were only a few occasions that I was successfully able to shift from 1st gear to 2nd gear on a high rpm, so I made it a habit to never rev high on 1st gear instead I shift early as possible from 1st to 2nd gear and then there on 2nd gear I awake the VTEC on my Spec III and let the rpm climb high.

 

first, i know u clutch in 100% but ur biting point is too close or just nice?

gear 1 to 2 u mentioned u shift early meaning no problem liao right?

y on gear 2 u open vtec? i though the problem is shifting from gear 1 to 2?

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Posted

[Q] The throttle vibration is get WORSE each day!!! ride 5km ONLY,whole right palm very very numb!!! :faint: why! why!! :sian:

ride safe today,ride again tomorrow

Posted
To all you guys and to Ah Pek of course I am in need of help.

On another current issue I have with my S4.

I need your opinion on this, desperately.

 

If I shift from 1st gear to 2nd gear at higher rpm say 4,500 rpm or at 7,000 rpm it won’t engage to 2nd gear almost 80% of the time. It will just stay at neutral and wants to stay neutral. At this stage of my gear transition if I force to go to 2nd gear I will hear very "loud crackling sound" as if I hear two gears are eating each other up and I can really feel the vibration of metal to metal eating each other on my left foot. It's as if I'm not fully pressing my clutch when shifting to 2nd gear. But I am pressing the clutch lever at 100%, so I wait until my rpm goes down to 2,500 rpm then I shift to 2nd gear.

 

 

This has really been annoying and frustrating. There were only a few occasions that I was successfully able to shift from 1st gear to 2nd gear on a high rpm, so I made it a habit to never rev high on 1st gear instead I shift early as possible from 1st to 2nd gear and then there on 2nd gear I awake the VTEC on my Spec III and let the rpm climb high. Shiftings from 3rd to 4th to 5th to 6th is very smooth, even if I'm on 12,000 rpm. I really don't know why 1st gear to 2nd gear is giving me this problem.

 

 

When was the last time your clutch and engine oil replaced?

If both these are okay, I can only guess from your description that your clutch adjustment is not right.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
[Q] The throttle vibration is get WORSE each day!!! ride 5km ONLY,whole right palm very very numb!!! :faint: why! why!! :sian:

 

One or more of your engine mounting bolts are likely loose. Check those with crash bar one first. If you have done some sort of work recently on your might that requires the removal of crash bar..etc..check those again..need to tighten them properly...IMHO.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
anyone know where the signal light relay for super4 is? I'm trying to replace my one.

 

Open your left back panel cover where all the fuse box area and solenoid is..on your seignal like and hear for clicking noise.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
first, i know u clutch in 100% but ur biting point is too close or just nice?

gear 1 to 2 u mentioned u shift early meaning no problem liao right?

y on gear 2 u open vtec? i though the problem is shifting from gear 1 to 2?

 

If I shift "early" I mean I shift on low rpm around 2,500.

Shifting from 1st gear to 2nd gear on low rpm is ok, I have no problem. But if I shift from 1st gear to 2nd gear with high rpm that is where the problem happens, I mentioned on my previous post. So what I do is I shift from 1st gear to 2nd gear on low rpm around 2,500. When I am already on 2nd gear this is where I let my rpm climb because here I can shift with no problem on even high rpms.

 

I hope I explained well SparkerS1.

 

 

 

When was the last time your clutch and engine oil replaced?

If both these are okay, I can only guess from your description that your clutch adjustment is not right.

 

Is there a separate clutch oil you mean? I do not know when was the last time clucth oil was changed.

 

Or do you mean clucth lining replaced? My clutch lining are still original stock, my bike 19,000 kms old.

 

I had my last oil change at March 31, 2009. I have only run 1,000 kilometers since my last oil change.

 

My bike's power is good, first gear I can go 55kph and more I think, also last I push it hard on 5th gear I reach 170kph. So no loss in power.

Ok, I will take good note of your answer Ah Pek.

It will help a lot when I explain it to the mechanic.

BE A TRUCK, BE A BICYCLE. (i.e. Occupy your space like a truck driver, but concede like the bicyclist). Loving my new ride, 03-15-09!

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Posted
If I shift "early" I mean I shift on low rpm around 2,500.

Shifting from 1st gear to 2nd gear on low rpm is ok, I have no problem. But if I shift from 1st gear to 2nd gear with high rpm that is where the problem happens, I mentioned on my previous post. So what I do is I shift from 1st gear to 2nd gear on low rpm around 2,500. When I am already on 2nd gear this is where I let my rpm climb because here I can shift with no problem on even high rpms.

 

I hope I explained well SparkerS1.

 

 

 

 

 

Is there a separate clutch oil you mean? I do not know when was the last time clucth oil was changed.

 

Or do you mean clucth lining replaced? My clutch lining are still original stock, my bike 19,000 kms old.

 

I had my last oil change at March 31, 2009. I have only run 1,000 kilometers since my last oil change.

 

My bike's power is good, first gear I can go 55kph and more I think, also last I push it hard on 5th gear I reach 170kph. So no loss in power.

Ok, I will take good note of your answer Ah Pek.

It will help a lot when I explain it to the mechanic.

 

19000Km..too new for anything else to go ear out and I can only suspect your clutch biting point and cable adjustment. Srew the fine adjustment screw all the way back in and adjust your major point at the clutch housing area (bottom right) by releasing the lock nut, then the front nut about three or four tuen forward and pull the it backwards (will tension the top level side). Believe your cable is stretch and if this is the case, it's limited by the allowance of the cable adjust left.

 

If you still have problem or don't understand..drop by AMK Ave 10.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
bros. recently experienced that when moving off in 1st gear, feels like engine is going to stall anytime. it got worst when there's pillion behind. a check with the bike shop saying that probably its with the carb. too dirty, need to wash. is it so?

 

any bros can have inputs on my question? thanks in advance !

Aug'06 - Jul'07 ; KRR 150

Jul'07 - Nov'07 ; Public Transport

Nov'07 - Jan'11 ; Spark 135

Feb'09 - May'11 ; Super Four VTEC II

May'11 - Mar'12 ; FZ1S'10

Jul'14 ; X-1R

Posted
any bros can have inputs on my question? thanks in advance !

 

If its carbs problem...why only 1st gear..did you asked them that? If its confirm carbs dirty problem, opening up carbs can cost up to $80 and $40 for tunning. Otherwise let me know if you are willing to have a cleansing done without opening up carbs and take 1/3 less the time. Pm me if you are interested.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

I hope I explained well SparkerS1.

 

I can only suspect your clutch biting point and cable adjustment.

 

haizzz, i put it sweet n simple but u nv see:dozed:

guess tat i am not qualified here:sian:

Yamaha RXZ, Kawasaki ZX KR150, Yamaha Spark135, Honda CB400 REVO NC42, Suzuki DRZ400SMK8, Aprilia RS125, Suzuki GSXR600K9, Honda RS150R

Click on the bike models for Information/Servicing/Maintenance on Kawasaki KR150, Honda CB400 Revo, Suzuki DRZ400SM and Suzuki GSXR

 

Facebook HONDA CB400 REVO

 

Can't post a new thread ?? Read HERE

 

SBF Garage Sales Act ---> Read HERE

Posted
19000Km..too new for anything else to go ear out and I can only suspect your clutch biting point and cable adjustment. Srew the fine adjustment screw all the way back in and adjust your major point at the clutch housing area (bottom right) by releasing the lock nut, then the front nut about three or four tuen forward and pull the it backwards (will tension the top level side). Believe your cable is stretch and if this is the case, it's limited by the allowance of the cable adjust left.

 

 

Ok, I will do the adjustments myself first.

This time please help me to which color/direction I should make my adjustments to the clutch.

I posted two images below, I'm hoping the images can help you direct me.

On Image A and Image B which direction should I adjust?

Also how will I proceed with the adjustments.

I know this will be an adjust and then test method and I am ready to do it.

I wanna try to do this myself first before I bring it to mechanic.

 

Image A

http://images.tabulas.com/44967/r/red-or-yellow.JPG

 

Image B

http://images.tabulas.com/44967/r/yellow-or-red.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

haizzz, i put it sweet n simple but u nv see:dozed:

guess tat i am not qualified here:sian:

 

Oh no SparkerS1, I take dearly your answer/opinion to my questions.

Sorry if I seem to make you feel bad but I don't intend it to be that way.

Your ansswer to my question are very important for me.

This time please help me to which color/direction I should make my adjustments.

I posted images above with color coded direction to how I will make clucth adjustments.

On Image A and Image B which direction should I adjust?

Also how will I proceed with the adjustments.

I know this will be an adjust and then test method and I am ready to do it.

I wanna try to do this myself first before I bring it to mechanic.

 

 

 

I have a read a topic from another forum, its about a Honda that encounters difficulties in engaging his 2nd gear on high rpms. I think his problem is a severe case of my own problem with my Super Four. The only difference is that on my Super Four when I engage from 1st gear to 2nd gear at high rpm say 10,000 my S4 can still shift to 2nd gear and the only problem I have is that it makes a crackling sound or grinding sound. As I said it's like metal tto metal hitting each other. But it does go to second gear. This feeling, the vibration of the crackling sound is very annoying I really want it to disappear.

The link to that thread is below, please click on it for reference.

 

Forum Topic 2nd Gear won't engage

 

 

 

Thanks in advance guys!

I really appreciate this.

If you need more information about my bike please just ask me I am ready to answer.

BE A TRUCK, BE A BICYCLE. (i.e. Occupy your space like a truck driver, but concede like the bicyclist). Loving my new ride, 03-15-09!

http://r9.fodey.com/2045/7ee11fdec9934ad698e2eb1c6d547ef5.0.gif

Posted
Ok, I will do the adjustments myself first.

This time please help me to which color/direction I should make my adjustments to the clutch.

I posted two images below, I'm hoping the images can help you direct me.

On Image A and Image B which direction should I adjust?

Also how will I proceed with the adjustments.

I know this will be an adjust and then test method and I am ready to do it.

I wanna try to do this myself first before I bring it to mechanic.

 

Image A

http://images.tabulas.com/44967/r/red-or-yellow.JPG

 

Image B

http://images.tabulas.com/44967/r/yellow-or-red.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh no SparkerS1, I take dearly your answer/opinion to my questions.

Sorry if I seem to make you feel bad but I don't intend it to be that way.

Your ansswer to my question are very important for me.

This time please help me to which color/direction I should make my adjustments.

I posted images above with color coded direction to how I will make clucth adjustments.

On Image A and Image B which direction should I adjust?

Also how will I proceed with the adjustments.

I know this will be an adjust and then test method and I am ready to do it.

I wanna try to do this myself first before I bring it to mechanic.

 

 

 

I have a read a topic from another forum, its about a Honda that encounters difficulties in engaging his 2nd gear on high rpms. I think his problem is a severe case of my own problem with my Super Four. The only difference is that on my Super Four when I engage from 1st gear to 2nd gear at high rpm say 10,000 my S4 can still shift to 2nd gear and the only problem I have is that it makes a crackling sound or grinding sound. As I said it's like metal tto metal hitting each other. But it does go to second gear. This feeling, the vibration of the crackling sound is very annoying I really want it to disappear.

The link to that thread is below, please click on it for reference.

 

Forum Topic 2nd Gear won't engage

 

 

 

Thanks in advance guys!

I really appreciate this.

If you need more information about my bike please just ask me I am ready to answer.

 

LOL!...ok lah...didn't know this was happening. Ok then.. SparkerS1 knows what to do and he's right and shall direct you :cheeky:

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
One or more of your engine mounting bolts are likely loose. Check those with crash bar one first. If you have done some sort of work recently on your might that requires the removal of crash bar..etc..check those again..need to tighten them properly...IMHO.

 

nope..but will check the bars bolt guess it's due to the vibrate thus loosen..

thanks ah pek!!

ride safe today,ride again tomorrow

Posted
i forgot wats on the whole meter liao, y u didnt ask the mech wat is it for?

 

 

hmm, I thought that was for the engine oil. So I went to change to my engine oil. As I just bought it the engine oil may need to top up. But the icon still lights up when stop my bike. Anyone knows? i will ask around.

Posted

For Guys and girls who changed from stock to stebel horn where you hide the relay. I have the idea of placing it just behind my headlight or behind the horn. I diy by myself:sweat: The relay seems to be water proof isit true:? Any1 care to share?

Posted (edited)
Ok, I will do the adjustments myself first.

This time please help me to which color/direction I should make my adjustments to the clutch.

 

I know this will be an adjust and then test method and I am ready to do it.

I wanna try to do this myself first before I bring it to mechanic.

its okie, but since u doing it yourself, i not sure whether if u know where to stop the biting point, (image A)first u loosen the locking nut(the big one), then u turn the adjusting nut (the smaller one)anti clockwise a bit, then u try ur biting point again, do till u get the suitable biting point, all while seated, but then the problem now is u know where is the suitable biting point? cos i need to feel then i know

SparkerS1 knows what to do and he's right and shall direct you :cheeky:

u are the real expert, the ppl need ur guidance:cheers:

The relay seems to be water proof isit true:? Any1 care to share?

i hide somewhere in the headlight area using cable tie, can be waterproof but dun let it get wet all the time can liao

But the icon still lights up when stop my bike. Anyone knows? i will ask around.

 

hmmm, i still dunno which icon is tat

Edited by SparkerS1

Yamaha RXZ, Kawasaki ZX KR150, Yamaha Spark135, Honda CB400 REVO NC42, Suzuki DRZ400SMK8, Aprilia RS125, Suzuki GSXR600K9, Honda RS150R

Click on the bike models for Information/Servicing/Maintenance on Kawasaki KR150, Honda CB400 Revo, Suzuki DRZ400SM and Suzuki GSXR

 

Facebook HONDA CB400 REVO

 

Can't post a new thread ?? Read HERE

 

SBF Garage Sales Act ---> Read HERE

Posted

hey guys,just to check if i am changing my RXZ headlight to SpecIII headlight and with GIVI windshield,i need to buy the SpecIII headlight and anything else??bracket tat hold the headlight????

Four Wheels Move The Body,Two Wheels Move The Soul

Posted
hey guys,just to check if i am changing my RXZ headlight to SpecIII headlight and with GIVI windshield,i need to buy the SpecIII headlight and anything else??bracket tat hold the headlight????

 

Answered at non Vtec forum liao...:sian:

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Hey SparkerS1 & Ah Pek, you are both right.

I adjusted my clutch biting point as instructed by you and it is now better.

I am now 80% satisfied with the performance of my clutch, I did the adjustment myself.

 

Thank you so much to both of you!

BE A TRUCK, BE A BICYCLE. (i.e. Occupy your space like a truck driver, but concede like the bicyclist). Loving my new ride, 03-15-09!

http://r9.fodey.com/2045/7ee11fdec9934ad698e2eb1c6d547ef5.0.gif

Posted

I adjusted my clutch biting point as instructed by you and it is now better.

.

gd, at least no need go bikeshop waste money do this do tat.

cos alot of ppl using very close half clutch, change gear fast but clutch plate all gone.

my biting point quite far thou:angel:

Thanks SPARKER1. Appreciate yor reply.

its SparkerS1:cheeky:

Yamaha RXZ, Kawasaki ZX KR150, Yamaha Spark135, Honda CB400 REVO NC42, Suzuki DRZ400SMK8, Aprilia RS125, Suzuki GSXR600K9, Honda RS150R

Click on the bike models for Information/Servicing/Maintenance on Kawasaki KR150, Honda CB400 Revo, Suzuki DRZ400SM and Suzuki GSXR

 

Facebook HONDA CB400 REVO

 

Can't post a new thread ?? Read HERE

 

SBF Garage Sales Act ---> Read HERE

Posted
gd, at least no need go bikeshop waste money do this do tat.

cos alot of ppl using very close half clutch, change gear fast but clutch plate all gone.

my biting point quite far thou:angel:

 

its SparkerS1:cheeky:

 

Oh... :sorry: mis out the S :D U are right SparkerS1 thats why I love this forum and the people here. So much valuable info.:thumb:

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