[Archive] DRZ SM 2005-2010

[hardrider]

Originally posted by souldead81@Jun 23 2005, 10:31 PM

locking it up often for me!!!!!!

 

damn scary...hahaha

You'll get used to it. With SM wheels not so bad as the tyres grip well on the roads. One day I changed back to dirt wheels after using CRF MC with SM wheels for some time.... Happened that roads were wet. I was approaching a junction and lights turned amber. I really wanted to stop, but found myself in the middle of the junction by the time bike stop. That was after locking and unlocking twice. Screw it, beat the lights. Lucky no car hehehe

[hardrider]

Ryan, I think they drop gear and WHACK the throttle to induce a slide. Then again what would I know??? hahaha

 

I thought when brake fluid boils it's no good? Air bubbles form and vapour lock situation arises.

 

As far as I know, the CRF MC has the following pros

-More powerful due to a smaller piston (increased fluid pressure) 1/2" for stock DRZ vs 3/8" for CRF if i recall right.

-No plastic reservoir, no bulging issues

-Better feel and modulation. Very progressive in my opinion

 

I don't think the YZF one will fit cos I remember it looks raher huge. You'd probably have to grind off the bracket for the stock DRZ reservoir to get it to fit.

[souldead81]

Originally posted by hardrider@Jun 23 2005, 11:04 PM

You'll get used to it. With SM wheels not so bad as the tyres grip well on the roads. One day I changed back to dirt wheels after using CRF MC with SM wheels for some time.... Happened that roads were wet. I was approaching a junction and lights turned amber. I really wanted to stop, but found myself in the middle of the junction by the time bike stop. That was after locking and unlocking twice. Screw it, beat the lights. Lucky no car hehehe

wah! lucky sia!

 

SM wheels wouldnt be that bad, I think I would lower the lever, prob will lower the braking effect

 

any idea who Felicepan is

[ryanC]

some grinding was actually done on rick's DRz when ah biao fitted it on though... don't really know much about the boiling part.. maybe i heard wrongly.. because whati heard was ah biao saying that the CRF MC works best when the fluid boil... i might be wrong

 

just another mod i've read up on maybe share with people like ah tiang! it's fever time...

 

read up on HYDRALIC CLUTCH! ok the benefits is actually that erm...the freeplay never changes as the clutch gets hot. the pull is super linear and the engage/disengage points do not change. (ripped off and edited from someone else's words) quite costly though... recommended brand is magura. read more about it here magura

[souldead81]

Originally posted by bugo@Jun 23 2005, 11:19 PM

some grinding was actually done on rick's DRz when ah biao fitted it on though... don't really know much about the boiling part.. maybe i heard wrongly.. because whati heard was ah biao saying that the CRF MC works best when the fluid boil... i might be wrong

 

just another mod i've read up on maybe share with people like ah tiang! it's fever time...

 

read up on HYDRALIC CLUTCH! ok the benefits is actually that erm...the freeplay never changes as the clutch gets hot. the pull is super linear and the engage/disengage points do not change. (ripped off and edited from someone else's words) quite costly though... recommended brand is magura. read more about it here magura

mine was bolt on

 

prob becoz of the different model of the CRF MC?

 

mine's was 03

 

Magura on Fleabay

 

The fever never stops!!!

[hardrider]

KJ I did lower my lever but it's for comfort. How to ride with the lever so darned high. Leg cramp lah.

 

Hydraulic clutches are a nice thing to have I guess. I was told one of the Magura models has a part that it rather prone to breaking. It's a thin metal bar that should be beefier. Not sure with model. Hymec or Jack. I think Hymec is the one. Then again for conversion cases like for DRZ, I think it's almost but not a full hydraulic system. It's hydraulic from lever up to the slave cylinder then mechanical to the clutch actuator.

[ryanC]

erm.. can change the clutch hose to steel braided?? :lol:

[StingRhea]

Originally posted by bugo@Jun 23 2005, 11:33 PM

erm.. can change the clutch hose to steel braided?? :lol:

is it hydraulic clutch? if yes, change to STAINLESS steel braided.

[hardrider]

Originally posted by StingRhea@Jun 23 2005, 11:37 PM

is it hydraulic clutch? if yes, change to STAINLESS steel braided.

Why not? I believe Goodrich makes SS cables for this application.

[souldead81]

Hey ppl

 

my msn

 

[email protected]

 

can have group chat sometimes

or good lobangs

[StingRhea]

Originally posted by hardrider@Jun 23 2005, 11:40 PM

Why not? I believe Goodrich makes SS cables for this application.

I aint comparing.

[ryanC]

somehow or rather, i hope they remove the PAIR system in the later versions of DRZSM maybe there might be a DRZ200SM

[hardrider]

Originally posted by StingRhea@Jun 23 2005, 11:48 PM

I aint comparing.

Sorry, i was supposed to be quoting bugo

[StarWarsII]

Permatex sold out at Jurong point.. wth

[R.C.]

Originally posted by bugo+Jun 23 2005, 10:52 PM-->

QUOTE (bugo @ Jun 23 2005, 10:52 PM)

but when ah biao fixed it on.. he said these are racing MC and probably will work well when the brake fluid boils... so like this means the brake fluid will boil easier with this mod... hmm...[/b]   He did not say racing MC. He said racing brake fluid! Which works better when warmed up...

[R.C.]

Originally posted by souldead81@Jun 23 2005, 11:16 PM

wah! lucky sia!

 

SM wheels wouldnt be that bad, I think I would lower the lever, prob will lower the braking effect

 

any idea who Felicepan is

I am also interested to know who that is.

[R.C.]

Originally posted by StarWarsII™@Jun 24 2005, 01:24 AM

Permatex sold out at Jurong point.. wth

Still have not mounted your CFC huh! Your RM caliper guard is here too. When are you gonna come pick it up with your Polisport fender?

[R.C.]

E vs S (Visible differences)

----------------------------------

• Gas Tank - Plastic vs Metal
  
• Carb - Keihin FCR 39mm flat slide vs Mikuni BSR36 CV
  
• Subframe - Shorter subframe vs Long extended subframe with helmet lock
  
• Rider Pegs - Wider rider pegs vs Thin rider pegs with removable rubber inserts
  
• Pillion Pegs - No pillion pegs vs Pillion peg mountings on subframe
  
• Lighting - Only headlight & LED taillight vs Inspection friendly signals & lighting system
  
• Speedo - Trip counter vs Huge digital dashboard
  
• Colour - Yellow vs Blue (applies to local DRZ only... except for 1 yellow S model)
  
• Front suspension -
  Telescopic, cartridge-type, oil-damped, adjustable preload, 14-way compression damping and 18-way rebound damping
  vs
  Telescopic, oil-damped, adjustable compression and rebound damping
  

E vs S (Nonvisible differences)

---------------------------------------

• Pipe - Larger diameter header & midpipe vs Slightly smaller diameter header & midpipe
  
• Rev Limit - 10,500 rpm stock CDI vs 10,000 rpm stock CDI
  
• Intake cam - .351 lift 227 duration vs .334 lift 227 duration
  
• Exhaust cam - .366 lift 243 duration vs .323 lift 243 duration
  
• Base gaskets
  

Feel free to add on! Hope this list will be of use to future Kicker/E/S/SM owners.

[ryanC]

ahahhah... thanks for the clarification.. must be those blondes on dirt bikes made me hear wrongly... er... what felicepan you all talking about? anyway for the PAIR system, another dude told me only need 2 bolts! now gathering more info... will post up pictures for the procedure of removal. it's said to be very simple... once it's removed... let's try out a full yoshi system aye!

[J.D.]

Originally posted by StarWarsII™@Jun 24 2005, 01:24 AM

Permatex sold out at Jurong point.. wth

dude u sure? I just boug a pack just now.....permatex 16B recommended by gasgasx

[ryanC]

got take a bit... erm.. wait ar... still figuring out how to use photobucket.. anyway.. it's from my handphone so not very clear.. please be merciful.... before the pictures come let's talk about it first...

 

i went for lunch and ah biao had already done the swing arm.. basically just loosen the nut, pull out the pin and pump the grease in... nothing much about there.. not like the ang moh at TT, they took out the whole thing... then do the rear linkage( i think it's the linkage lar... that thing that looks like a boomerang and got 3 holes..) he opened it up and showned me.. totally no grease inside...

 

then did the rear axle, front axle, steering cone and some other 2 "gold" colour pins also totally no grease... the steering cone got only a bit of white grease then ah biao help me put lotsa maxima grease there lar... while taking out the clamps.. he accidently dropped my right fork though.. a bit heartache but heck lar.. if drop abit only spoil wah lao.. this is not a scrambler already lor... overall it's a job well done. he wanted to help me clean up my bike but i say no need lar... coz i'm gonna wash it tomorrow anyway... seriously... anyone who've gotten the bike please do regreasing asap... certain parts of my bike has already signs of wearing... if you ride it everyday, it is a must to get it done. especially ah tiang... first day only go chiong kent ridge liao... 1 week only clock 800 km

[ryanC]

here are the pics

 

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/bugo/regreasing/Picture8.jpg

 

this is the bottom clamp.. the look like "beaver gear" area was totally dry, no sign of grease initally.. this is after greasing.

 

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/bugo/regreasing/Picture7.jpg

 

this is the steering cone (i think) can you see the grease oozing out after regreasing?

 

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/bugo/regreasing/Picture6.jpg

 

this is the "before" picture not much grease...

 

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/bugo/regreasing/Picture5.jpg

 

i don't know what you call this but this is part of the fork that clamps the axle.. look! no grease! that is before regreasing... after apply grease quite messy so never take picture.

 

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/bugo/regreasing/Picture4.jpg

 

this, if i never remember wrongly, is the front axle... look NO GREASE! that is before regreasing... after apply grease quite messy so never take picture.

 

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/bugo/regreasing/Picture3.jpg

 

look at those pins! no grease also! wah lao eh.....

 

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/bugo/regreasing/Picture2.jpg

 

this is the boomerang looking thing... look inside... and guess what... NO GREASE AGAIN!

 

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/bugo/regreasing/Picture1.jpg

 

this is the metal pipe inside the boomerang and no prizes for the coorect guess... it's as dry as sahara.

[R.C.]

Wanted to do my rear linkages today as well but busy with work. Neverthless, good pix!

[ryanC]

can anyone orientate me to go pump petrol at JB... no money liao lar... also.. now running on reserve!

 

for those interested in removing the PAIR, the good news is it's really very easy.. the bad news is... it's irreversable.. but i doubt you'll miss that thing...

 

also next on the list.. is the remove the engine kill on the side stand... dangerous stuff..

[StingRhea]

Originally posted by bugo@Jun 24 2005, 09:15 PM

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/bugo/regreasing/Picture1.jpg

Where you got t hat grease on the floor? ITS VERY GOOD.