Aprilia Riders

[Feelicks]

tats y im wondering, $9 item can boost an aprillia bike full performance just like dat..

 

hey! dun understimate cheap stuff! mainjets only cost $7 bucks but they make a world of a difference to ur bike performance

[personified]

bro hw much is the towing to PG? And isit tow from SG to PG or we hafta go to JB then from there tow to PG?

 

the standard rates are as what vyrus stated....sms me dude when u going ,i give u the rates....i can arrange A to A (thats SGP door to door service)

[lacrimosae]

Gona put everything back in tmrw and video my first start =) Hopefully, tmrw i graduate from DIY college and finally become a man.

 

can juz pic it, u standing on a stage wif ur grad gown on receiving ur certificate of competency for diy of rs125s signed, sealed n presented by e one n only lawrence lol n all of us happily cheering away in e audience!!

 

WTFahahahah... Is the award I'm giving out a trophy sculpted like a pair of nuts and a schlong to represent the manhood?

 

Hey guys, I took a tat of 30 minutes out to read through the most recent pages and i'm totally lost in what you guys have been talking about. Am currently considering of getting a RS125 to take over my dads older bike of which i'm using right now. Not really into racing ATM but i'm really into the bike's looks and of course, the uniqueness of Aprilia and its heritage!

 

So any of you guys mind giving me a standpoint of why one should get an aprilia based on your experiences? Well, lets say im not really that into massive overhauls of parts and tip top speed for the time being

 

Also, anyone knows if the RS4 125 is already in singapore? If not, when? ^^

 

Thanks in advance!

 

We spend an average of $5k-10k per year on our bikes. Parts are expensive.

 

A KR150 piston is $40. Our RS125 piston is $350. (Well, updated price is $250!)

 

You can expect the same disparity in price for other parts.

 

This bike is designed for race from the ground up. If you're only into its looks, I guarantee you, you will not be prepared for the amount of dedication and passion required to keep it going.

 

Some of use have spent over $50K and counting. And the bike is still far from perfect.

 

Pulled the trigger finally and got me a new suit (Alpinestars GP Pro). Fits like a freakin' glove. I tried a couple of Dainese suits (Laguna Seca 2009 and Pro) and they had a pretty terrible fit on me - which was great because they were significantly more expensive!

 

All I'm waiting on now is my eBay-sourced GoPro HD to arrive. Assuming it arrives in two weeks, I'll be looking to hit PG for the very first time later this month. I'll transport the bike up ($100 return if it's just me, $80 return per person if it's two or more persons) and will be looking to do so on a weekday. That way I can hopefully get an empty track like mesa did and track without traffic worries. I'll post my planned date on the PG Track Board but will also do it here in case I can convince any of you good people to come with me.

 

I will follow you... My bike's almost done... a few more tweaks left- about 33 more items left on my checklist, down from 217 items from last year!

 

well firstly looks aside, e bike requires proper maintenance n riding technique. if ur getting e bike only 4 e looks, ur soon gonna b questioning whether e looks is worth e money... either u take e time to learn how to ride/maintain it urself or pay 4 all e knowledge when things turn ugly.

 

if u've truely read e last few pages, dan u'd have noticed e amount of probs tis bike potentially has. so b prepared if u truely wanna take tis italian beast on.

 

warnings aside, properly looked after, u get rewarded wif a 2b bike tt performs like a 2a wif killer looks n shld last u till ur class 2.

 

U HAVE BEEN WARNED

 

PS. rs4 aint out yet

 

Spot on!

 

Omg guys i had like a freaking bad nightmare. I dreamt that my engine blew up coz i didnt put in the piston circlip properly and the gudgeon pin dislodged and my engine blew to smithereens. I seriously woke up sweating, and im nt shy to say this but i cried in my dream. lol

 

But on the more serious not, im getting kinda worried. The dream reminded me that i used the rotax piston circlip and fit it into the Wiseco piston. I know for sure that the stock circlip is thicker than the one which came with the Wiseco. But when i went over to ah seng to get the circlip, i asked him, he gave me the stock piston circlip. I asked him if i can use it on the Wiseco and he said yes. I fit the circlip in as best as i can and i pushed it all the way in with a sharp nose screwdriver. Then i tried taking it out again and i had a tough time doing it, so i thought that it should be fine coz the fit is firm. Anyway the thing thats getting me worried is that looking at the side where i used the Wiseco circlip, the clip can clearly be seen to sit in the groove. But on the stock circlip size, i cant even see the groove. How ah. Should i run the bike? Or should i take everything back out?

 

Ash, as long as the circlip does not protrude from the side and interfere with the movement of the piston, and they are both secure, it is fine.

 

If really in doubt, REDO!

 

u dont have to pay that amount for towing dude... let me know when u ready to rawk n roll n i give u the rates....really love to see more RS 125 on track as thats where she's in her elements...so far i been going to track and i been having good sorties with Yammies R125, great bunch of guys who love getting their bike to the track..hmmmmm and it really makes me wonder... are 4 strokes R125 really a better bike to track then a RS125???

come to track fast and join this tiny band of very rare Aprilia RS125 trackies...we need numbers to overwhelm the R125s... :P

 

Thanks for jumping in Larry, I was hoping you would. I would love to have transport up to PG and back. Getting too old to keep putting unnecessary mileage on my bike and body. With all my injuries, I feel like I'm 65 already.

 

Thanks for the info Ashraf. But i don't understand why would you use a smaller than stock size piston? Is it ok to do so?

Also 135 psi seems rather high I think. Is it a single ring piston?

 

Well done on the DIY.

 

Yeah, I was kinda hoping the piston would be too small so I can keep my Wiseco! hahaha... Told him to just try slipping it into the cylinder, if too loose, return the piston to me and use a larger piston. I was expecting an sms the following few days but to my dismay it never came!

[mesab0ogie]

Yeah, I was kinda hoping the piston would be too small so I can keep my Wiseco! hahaha... Told him to just try slipping it into the cylinder, if too loose, return the piston to me and use a larger piston. I was expecting an sms the following few days but to my dismay it never came!

 

come come i order for u the Asso-Werke piston as a replacement want? =D

 

btw u guys wana noe whats the most surprising thing i encountered in my whole diy saga? My bike has been out of action for around 2 weeks but when i put the key into the ignition and turned it on, everything came on and the voltage was a healthy 11.8 volts. Found this really surprising. Was expecting to haf to change the battery.

Edited April 5, 2011 by mesab0ogie

[Haggai16]

Hi Aprilia Riders,

 

Does anyone encouter ignition problems? I am having a problem with my ignition problem ever since day 1. The bike is with me for a month and went to shop twice because of the problem.

 

Also, any strongly recommended workshop for rs125? I was going to Bikeworks and now trying out Motor Factor only because my cousin goes there. Im interested in knowing the point of aprilia riders!

 

Advice appreciated!!!

[dDtim]

Hi Aprilia Riders,

 

Does anyone encouter ignition problems? I am having a problem with my ignition problem ever since day 1. The bike is with me for a month and went to shop twice because of the problem.

 

Also, any strongly recommended workshop for rs125? I was going to Bikeworks and now trying out Motor Factor only because my cousin goes there. Im interested in knowing the point of aprilia riders!

 

Advice appreciated!!!

 

Hello! You might want to describe the details of your problem, maybe some of us can give an opinion or even develop a probable diagnosis!

 

As for workshops I've been and seen many aprilias visiting 37 motoring located at Ubi Rd 1, eunos technolink.

[dDtim]

come come i order for u the Asso-Werke piston as a replacement want? =D

 

btw u guys wana noe whats the most surprising thing i encountered in my whole diy saga? My bike has been out of action for around 2 weeks but when i put the key into the ignition and turned it on, everything came on and the voltage was a healthy 11.8 volts. Found this really surprising. Was expecting to haf to change the battery.

 

It is advised to remove the 20A fuse when your bike is gonna be out cold for long. I don't think that a battery switch would be necessary if it ran flat, a recharge should do fine.

 

My bike is gonna be cold for 3 weeks !

[vteclee]

e rs has a special blanking circuit which restricts e bike's performance, getting e blank key will unlock ur bike's full performance...

feelicks u damn ******* to reply like this... but i like... WAHAHA

[vteclee]

Hi Aprilia Riders,

 

Does anyone encouter ignition problems? I am having a problem with my ignition problem ever since day 1. The bike is with me for a month and went to shop twice because of the problem.

 

Also, any strongly recommended workshop for rs125? I was going to Bikeworks and now trying out Motor Factor only because my cousin goes there. Im interested in knowing the point of aprilia riders!

 

Advice appreciated!!!

 

high chance starter motor got water.... get someone to svc it.

[vteclee]

guys where do u guys get ur fairing screws ?? other than auntie shop ?

[jenggoz11]

To ALL Aprilianz indiz forum. U r all invited for a Nite Ride diz coming Sat. 9th April meet up at Kallang Mac at 10.30pm. Feel free to cum down n mit up wif the rest of Aprilia riders to hav a fun nite riding together... Regards Eddy Rossi 46.... 81415280...

Ride safe Aprilianz.....

[crisisady]

wah on bo!?! wash valve every two weeks... i wash valve/carb plus lub parts every end of a month

 

Onz, i wash my valve every 2 weeks de. Next time meet up to wash carb leh! i still unsure of how to remove it :/

[dDtim]

Onz, i wash my valve every 2 weeks de. Next time meet up to wash carb leh! i still unsure of how to remove it :/

 

Cannot be! You are such a washaholic. Anyways from my experience, the carb doesn't need washing as often as the valve does.

 

I'll be washing valve after I return from Taiwan, fix up my 34 and tune and probably head down to track!

[Cyros]

Hey guys, does anyone knows the operating hours of 37 Motoring? Do they open on sunday?

[personified]

I've just got my reminder to go for my first inspection before May. The only thing I suspect could be a problem is my tail tidy (i.e. absence of the standard large mudguard/number plate holder). Has anyone here got pinged for not having the mudguard at inspection? I wonder if the inspector would see the rear hugger as the mudguard, in which case there shouldn't be a problem. Cheers bros.

 

relax bro...solution is at hand.... :P

sorry cant post it here...when it about going around the system,its better to meet.

[personified]

Excellent information Larry! Looking forward to it already. I'll PM you when I get possible dates locked in.

 

 

 

Geez I hope it's SG to PG direct.

 

A related question: If the bike is towed to PG, would I accompany the bike with the towing people or make my own way there?

 

hmmmmm seems like i can arrange that too but subjected to availibity of space and where u staying...hahaha

[lacrimosae]

Marketers just can't resist it. Ram air! The words themselves summon up images of rushing wild beasts, or of secret military aircraft operating on futuristic principles.

 

Unfortunately, on most perofrmance cars, ram-air is as functional as tail fins were on cars of the ’60s.

 

What is it? Ram air just means using a forward-facing air intake to gain some extra intake pressure. We have all, as children, felt the pressure of moving air on our hands when we held them out the window of the family car. When moving air is brought smoothly to rest, the energy of its motion is converted into pressure. Motorcycles went through a "ram-air" period in the early 1990s, during which street bikes were equipped with the forward-facing "rocket-launcher" engine air intakes seen on many road-racing machines.

 

While it's appealing to imagine the forward velocity of a car being converted into free supercharge, the actual air pressure gain is extremely small at normal speeds. For example, at 150 mph (240 km/h), the pressure gain when air is efficiently brought to rest is 2.75 percent. Because this is a dynamic effect, it is proportional to the square of the air velocity. At a more realizable automobile speed of 75 mph (120km/h), the effect (again with 100 percent efficient conversion of velocity into pressure) will be only one-quarter as great — that is, just under seven-tenths of one percent.

 

In fact, velocity energy is not converted into pressure at 100 percent efficiency. A figure of 75 percent efficiency is usual, which reduces our notional ram-air gain at 75 mph to one-half of one percent.

 

Therefore, at normal speeds, ram air is a myth. However, something much more interesting lies behind it, ignored by the advertiser's busy pen. That something is airbox resonance.

 

In order to implement ram air, the carburetors or throttle-bodies of our engine must seal to an airbox whose volume is large enough that the intake cycle of one cylinder cannot pull its internal pressure down significantly. Box volume is typically 10-20 times the engine's displacement. Then the forward-facing air intake is connected to the box. When this assembly is tested on the dyno — even without an external fan to simulate the high-speed rush of air past the intake — it is discovered that the engine's torque curve is greatly altered, with new peaks and hollows.

 

Why? The answer is airbox resonance. If you hold the mouth of an empty bottle near your open mouth as you loudly hum scales, you find that at certain “hum frequencies” the bottle reinforces your humming, which becomes louder. What is happening is that the springy compressibility of the air in the bottle is bouncing the slug of air in the bottle's neck back and forth at a particular frequency — higher if the bottle is small, lower if it is larger. Your humming is driving a rapid plus-and-minus variation of the air pressure inside the bottle.

 

The same thing happens inside a resonant airbox. The volume of air in the box is the “spring” in this kind of oscillator. The mass of air in the box's intake pipe is what oscillates. The “humming” that drives the oscillation is the rapid succession of suction pulses at the carb or throttle-body intakes. If the volume of the airbox and the dimensions of the intake pipe(s) are correctly chosen, the airbox can be made to resonate very strongly, in step with the engine's suction pulses. The result, when this is done correctly, is that the engine takes air from the box only during the high-pressure part of its cycle, while the box refills from atmosphere through its intake between engine suction pulses. This produces a useful gain in torque.

 

Using this idea, motorcycle engines have been able to realize torque increases, in particular speed ranges, of 10-15 percent. In race engines, it is usual to tune the airbox to resonate at peak-power rpm to increase top speed. For production engines, it is often more useful to tune the box resonance to fill in what would otherwise be a flat-spot in the torque curve, resulting in smoother power and improved acceleration.

 

Early resonant airbox systems used long intake pipes that terminated in forward-facing intakes. More recent designs do not connect the ram-air pipe to the box at all, but terminate it near the airbox entry. The actual entry pipe is a short piece of tubing with bellmouths on both ends. This is done because (a) the potential gain from actual ram air is too small to worry about, and (b) it's easier to tune the airbox with a short tube.

 

Where vehicle speeds are very high, gains from ram air are significant. This was discovered by Rolls-Royce in the late 1920s as the company developed its R Schneider Trophy air racing engine. At speeds above 300 mph (482 km/h), it was noticed that the R’s fuel mixture leaned out enough to cause backfiring. When the mixture was corrected for ram-air pressure gain, the engineers realized they had a "free" source of power. At 350 mph (563 km/h) the gain from ram air is almost 15 percent. Similar mixture correction is necessary when ram air is used on drag-race and Bonneville cars and bikes.

 

Intuition suggests that a forward-facing intake made in the form of a funnel, large end foremost, should somehow multiply the pressure of the air, resulting in a much larger pressure gain at the small end. Sadly, intuition is wrong. In order to convert velocity energy into pressure, the air has to be slowed down, and this requires a duct that widens rather than narrows. Next time you fly on a commercial airliner, note that its engine intakes widen as the airflow approaches the compressor face. Such widening passages are called diffusers, and they are universally used in the conversion of velocity into pressure.

 

Language often plays tricks on us — especially when language is used by product advertisers. "Ram air" sounds much more appealing than "resonant airbox." Nevertheless, it is airbox resonance that actually generates a significant power gain.

 

MORAL OF THE STORY IS THIS: Anyone who claims RAM-AIR works, or claims that ram-air intake works on his car or bike, is a big fcuking liar.

[dDtim]

 

When moving air is brought smoothly to rest, the energy of its motion is converted into pressure. Motorcycles went through a "ram-air" period in the early 1990s, during which street bikes were equipped with the forward-facing "rocket-launcher" engine air intakes seen on many road-racing machines.

 

In order to implement ram air, the carburetors or throttle-bodies of our engine must seal to an airbox whose volume is large enough that the intake cycle of one cylinder cannot pull its internal pressure down significantly. Box volume is typically 10-20 times the engine's displacement. Then the forward-facing air intake is connected to the box. When this assembly is tested on the dyno — even without an external fan to simulate the high-speed rush of air past the intake — it is discovered that the engine's torque curve is greatly altered, with new peaks and hollows.

 

Why? The answer is airbox resonance. If you hold the mouth of an empty bottle near your open mouth as you loudly hum scales, you find that at certain “hum frequencies” the bottle reinforces your humming, which becomes louder. What is happening is that the springy compressibility of the air in the bottle is bouncing the slug of air in the bottle's neck back and forth at a particular frequency — higher if the bottle is small, lower if it is larger. Your humming is driving a rapid plus-and-minus variation of the air pressure inside the bottle.

 

The same thing happens inside a resonant airbox. The volume of air in the box is the “spring” in this kind of oscillator. The mass of air in the box's intake pipe is what oscillates. The “humming” that drives the oscillation is the rapid succession of suction pulses at the carb or throttle-body intakes. If the volume of the airbox and the dimensions of the intake pipe(s) are correctly chosen, the airbox can be made to resonate very strongly, in step with the engine's suction pulses. The result, when this is done correctly, is that the engine takes air from the box only during the high-pressure part of its cycle, while the box refills from atmosphere through its intake between engine suction pulses. This produces a useful gain in torque.

 

Using this idea, motorcycle engines have been able to realize torque increases, in particular speed ranges, of 10-15 percent. In race engines, it is usual to tune the airbox to resonate at peak-power rpm to increase top speed. For production engines, it is often more useful to tune the box resonance to fill in what would otherwise be a flat-spot in the torque curve, resulting in smoother power and improved acceleration.

 

Early resonant airbox systems used long intake pipes that terminated in forward-facing intakes. More recent designs do not connect the ram-air pipe to the box at all, but terminate it near the airbox entry. The actual entry pipe is a short piece of tubing with bellmouths on both ends. This is done because (a) the potential gain from actual ram air is too small to worry about, and (b) it's easier to tune the airbox with a short tube.

 

Where vehicle speeds are very high, gains from ram air are significant.

 

Intuition suggests that a forward-facing intake made in the form of a funnel, large end foremost, should somehow multiply the pressure of the air, resulting in a much larger pressure gain at the small end. Sadly, intuition is wrong. In order to convert velocity energy into pressure, the air has to be slowed down, and this requires a duct that widens rather than narrows. Next time you fly on a commercial airliner, note that its engine intakes widen as the airflow approaches the compressor face. Such widening passages are called diffusers, and they are universally used in the conversion of velocity into pressure.

 

Language often plays tricks on us — especially when language is used by product advertisers. "Ram air" sounds much more appealing than "resonant airbox." Nevertheless, it is airbox resonance that actually generates a significant power gain.

 

MORAL OF THE STORY IS THIS: Anyone who claims RAM-AIR works, or claims that ram-air intake works on his car or bike, is a big fcuking liar.

 

So what up with open pods then. Since the airbox is absent, wouldn't bikes running on open pods be shortchanged in this 'freepower'?

 

Do correct me if I have misunderstood your above passage.

[lacrimosae]

'Open' pod filters are a misnomer. I always associate 'open' to filter-less. So an 'open' pod would be more of an open trumpet, where the airbox or pod filter is replaced with just a trumpet looking intake, without any sort of filtration material like porous paper or sponge to remove dust particles.

 

As for how pod filters compare to airbox, I have always maintained that pod filters are harder to tune. But they do provide a lot more power at the higher end of your rev range.

 

So pod filters are great as long as your rpms are above say 9,000.

 

Recently, Vik has told me that there are quite a few riders who have managed to get their carbs tuned well despite running pod filters. So either I've been proven wrong, or I'm just too much of a perfectionist when it comes to tuning...

[dDtim]

Double post

[dDtim]

'Open' pod filters are a misnomer. I always associate 'open' to filter-less. So an 'open' pod would be more of an open trumpet, where the airbox or pod filter is replaced with just a trumpet looking intake, without any sort of filtration material like porous paper or sponge to remove dust particles.

 

As for how pod filters compare to airbox, I have always maintained that pod filters are harder to tune. But they do provide a lot more power at the higher end of your rev range.

 

So pod filters are great as long as your rpms are above say 9,000.

 

Recently, Vik has told me that there are quite a few riders who have managed to get their carbs tuned well despite running pod filters. So either I've been proven wrong, or I'm just too much of a perfectionist when it comes to tuning...

 

Thus the cone shape, usually narrow head towards a wider base which practices the concept of the airbox as well. Good lesson, thanks for sharing.

[mesab0ogie]

bleargh. My bike is leaking coolant. S**TLOAD of smoke. lol. I think i didnt put my o-ring back in correctly.

[DarKz]

Anyone has spare a Starter Motor to sell me? Need it urgently. Contact me at 9756 sixfivenineeight.

Edited April 27, 2011 by DarKz

[lacrimosae]

Did you use enough high temp gasket sealant to seal the mating surfaces?

[mesab0ogie]

Did you use enough high temp gasket sealant to seal the mating surfaces?

 

i used sealant on the big o ring. but did not use on the small o-ring. gona take off and put some sealant tonight.