Aprilia Riders

lacrimosae · July 25, 2011

Dear Mr. mean....

600 is a bit toooooo expensive.. i will consider if it is half of the price, but i am sure you will not sell

I would probably stick with the current handle bar for the time being...

He's not mean, he's being generous. $600 is a steal considering it's German-made quality and not made in China, and you'll be hard pressed to find a new set for less than $900 in SG, unless you order it online.

Rizoma is for posers. Stick to the tested and proven Playlife. haha

CalCal · July 25, 2011

I'm riding an aprilia RS125 09' model. I kind of have some question marks about the riding technique of the bike. Sorry if I sounded noob as I really have no knowledge of it. I have rode it for few days and my experience is that when during low rev (below 5k rpm) my bike seems like it has no power and some times can feels it jerking. Even if I open the throttle some more, it kind of gets stuck below 5k rpm and I will keep changing gear. As a result, I will reach 5th gear at maybe 60-70kmh but still it has got no power. That is if I ride normally to release the clutch fully and open throttle.

If i change another riding style and did not release my clutch fully(meaning I hold the clutch at the biting point and play with it slightly and and open throttle at the same time), I find that when the rpm goes up and when it gets pass about 7k rpm, the valve opens, the bike has alot of power and I will need to change gear at about 10k rpm and above to keep the power going. In another words, I tried riding slowly on the expressway on maybe 5th gear below 5k rpm, sometimes it goes abit up slope and I tried to open throttle more but the power just doesn't come. I kind of like need to drop gear and clutch in to the biting point and playing around with the throttle to bring the rpm up and release the clutch then the power will comes.

I'm kind of clueless now whether is it supposed to be like that or could it be my valve need some washing. Coz I bought the bike from another owner and I'm not sure when's the last time he did servicing. My usual riding style is to release the clutch fully then accelerate. My friend tell me that maybe I need to open throttle and release the clutch slowly. Any advise from any fellow aprilian will be strongly appreciated, thanks.

CalCal · July 25, 2011

Btw, any bro here have any shop to do servicing but pricing wise still acceptable to recommend? Got the intention to learn how to wash valve etc on my own but I really have no knowledge of it and none of my friend ride an aprilia. So currently intend to bring it to a bike shop for servicing if the problem that I've mentioned got to do with my valve or what. It's just not smooth and feels kinda f up at low rpm.

crisisady · July 25, 2011

Btw, any bro here have any shop to do servicing but pricing wise still acceptable to recommend? Got the intention to learn how to wash valve etc on my own but I really have no knowledge of it and none of my friend ride an aprilia. So currently intend to bring it to a bike shop for servicing if the problem that I've mentioned got to do with my valve or what. It's just not smooth and feels kinda f up at low rpm.

You seems new in here so let me point you to the right direction for once. Most of the aprilian goes to either Teck Thyte(David) or 37 Motoring(Ah Seng). If you are english speaking, kindly go to David. If you are fluent in Chinese or amazing good in hand/body languages, you can try ah seng.

Anyway, there might be a DIY session full of P PLATE coming up in Jurong area. And yes, we are not the supporter of Rock Oil.

Yes you must reject and throw your carb away and run without a carb with the filter.

So now you play these kind of games already la? HAHA. I can throw my 28mm carb at you soon. Look forward to it

Cool. Ok, pricewise. Can you point me to a specific shop/person who sells one? Thanks!

If you are reluctant to get it online, there is the CMO on k&n filters in the mass order section. If my memory did not fail me, its around 90+. The code is AL-1004 (Credits to lawrence)

.CandyZam. · July 25, 2011

master brake pumpkit for 06 and above how much?

crisisady · July 25, 2011

I'm riding an aprilia RS125 09' model. I kind of have some question marks about the riding technique of the bike. Sorry if I sounded noob as I really have no knowledge of it. I have rode it for few days and my experience is that when during low rev (below 5k rpm) my bike seems like it has no power and some times can feels it jerking. Even if I open the throttle some more, it kind of gets stuck below 5k rpm and I will keep changing gear. As a result, I will reach 5th gear at maybe 60-70kmh but still it has got no power. That is if I ride normally to release the clutch fully and open throttle.

If i change another riding style and did not release my clutch fully(meaning I hold the clutch at the biting point and play with it slightly and and open throttle at the same time), I find that when the rpm goes up and when it gets pass about 7k rpm, the valve opens, the bike has alot of power and I will need to change gear at about 10k rpm and above to keep the power going. In another words, I tried riding slowly on the expressway on maybe 5th gear below 5k rpm, sometimes it goes abit up slope and I tried to open throttle more but the power just doesn't come. I kind of like need to drop gear and clutch in to the biting point and playing around with the throttle to bring the rpm up and release the clutch then the power will comes.

I'm kind of clueless now whether is it supposed to be like that or could it be my valve need some washing. Coz I bought the bike from another owner and I'm not sure when's the last time he did servicing. My usual riding style is to release the clutch fully then accelerate. My friend tell me that maybe I need to open throttle and release the clutch slowly. Any advise from any fellow aprilian will be strongly appreciated, thanks.

Yr 09 model is restricted if the previous owner didn't do anything about it. Anyway, since you do not know when was the last servicing, do bring it to the recommend garage and do a servicing on the carb, valve and change gear oil. In that way you can start to keep track of yr own servicing records right? Basic servicing is very important for the Italian beast. It isn't like the SP or KRR which you can disregard the servicing at times. Mistreat it & it will throw you off the saddle.

From my past experiences, the only way to quickly learn about yr bike is to attend open DIY sessions & meetups/makan session. Be humble & people will be willing to impart their knowledge.

I'm not very sure about yr riding style. But i mainly kept the rev above 6k rpm. For the 1st gear when moving off, the 2k to 5k rpm will have low power. 5k to 5.5k rpm will splutter(my bike will be cough). 5.5k onward will be very smooth. In other words for my second gear onward, i will trrryyyyyy to maintain above 6k rpm but aint easy with all the speed humps.

Lastly please don't half clutch & drag your bike unnecessary. 6 piece of friction plates doesn't come cheap. Furthermore u are dragging it to 7k rpm. Do it only when you are going up slope' Your friend is somewhat right. You can't just release the clutch quickly when "moving off".

1) Throttle to 4/5k rpm

2) Release clutch to biting point & yr rpm should fall to around 3k

3) Maintain it the rpm starts climbing (Around half a sec)

4) once rpm starts to climb, fully release

P.S the above methods is only for MOVING OFF

crisisady · July 25, 2011

Mate, you got it online? How much was it then? Better to buy it online, then get it here. Btw, please dont dig up any of my old posts! Scary mate.

i think around SGD80plus inclusive of shipping.

For you lazy bumps!!!! its gotten even cheaper. 40pounds inclusive of shipping.

K&N AL-1004

P.S credits given to Lawrence for experimenting AL-1004.

lacrimosae · July 25, 2011

to crisisady!

You're getting the hang of sharing!

And you are spot on for all the points mentioned. Good job on sifting out the BS!

Over time, you may discover certain things on your own, certain myths spread by riders and mechanics are untrue, and certain misconception held to steadfastly, and it's time to change it. Take everything with a pinch of salt and always be skeptical, no matter how credible the source, including me! It helps you stay sharp and makes you ask hard questions that will reveal the truth.

K&N filter is about $80, and since USD is so low now, makes sense to order from a US online merchant.

Ateno · July 26, 2011

Lastly please don't half clutch & drag your bike unnecessary. 6 piece of friction plates doesn't come cheap. Furthermore u are dragging it to 7k rpm. Do it only when you are going up slope' Your friend is somewhat right. You can't just release the clutch quickly when "moving off".

1) Throttle to 4/5k rpm
2) Release clutch to biting point & yr rpm should fall to around 3k
3) Maintain it the rpm starts climbing (Around half a sec)
4) once rpm starts to climb, fully release
P.S the above methods is only for MOVING OFF

As Chris mentioned above

Also, a good exercise for you to get comfortable with the biting point is to sit on your bike firmly with slightly opened throtlle (1.5k), fully clutch in, drop to gear 1, then slowly release your clutch to the point when you feel like your bike will start moving. Then clutch in again and repeat (note: don't release your clutch beyond the biting point, as your engine will die and your bike will jerk at such low rpm).

It's not as easy to do as it is on 4-stroke, but you should still be able to do it, just be gentle with your clutch. Gradually, your muscle memory will come in and you'll know roughly where your biting point is without having to look at your clutch.

Following part is my own experience, so please be cautious if you want to try Once you're comfortable and want to move quickly from red light, you can half clutch all the way to 5-6k in gear 1, then release it without rpm dropping much. It will probably wear your clutch faster, but according to our president and various sources, our clutch is not that easy to die. It can sustain the 2-3 seconds you're half clutching for a reasonably long time.

mesab0ogie · July 26, 2011

Thanks. Kinda not keen on re-jetting (i don't even know the current jets fitted, assuming 160 for the main jets based on some info from the web). Afraid to touch the carbs at the moment, need more time to research

if ur not keen on rejetting then u should learn to be satisfied with sub par performance and less than appealing mileage. Its all fine until u start trolling this forum more and u read about people getting 30km/l and hitting top speeds of 180km/h when u'd be lucky to get 20km/l and ur bike struggles to hit 160km/h. thats how i started getting interested in tuning anyways.

Its pretty ironic that u would want to attempt an exhaust repacking and pipe decarbonizing when ur afraid of touching the carb. The carb is one of the simplest mechanisms on the bike and taking it out takes no more than 5mins(if ur using an open pod filter) or 15min max(if ur airbox is being a b***h). The carb has very little moving parts, so room for error or stupidity is very little. That said some idiots will definitely find a way to screw things up(again im speaking from personal experience) So dont be afraid of DIY-ing. I overcame my fear of f**king the bike up after my first engine seizure. I thought that oh well the bike couldnt possibly get any worse. So i kamikazed into the world of DIY-ing without any knowledge or experience.

That said, pls dont follow my footsteps. Ive paid a high price for my little adventures(3 seizures in a span of 3 mths) so use the forum. Ask around. And attend DIY meet ups. Many before u have paid "tuition fees" to gain knowledge(mine was 3 pistons and 2 barrels). Be a cheapskate and learn for free. Unless of course u have loads of money to spare. To that i will say, theres no better way to learn than from ones mistakes =D

rafi92 · July 26, 2011

Anyway, there might be a DIY session full of P PLATE coming up in Jurong area. And yes, we are not the supporter of Rock Oil.

So now you play these kind of games already la? HAHA. I can throw my 28mm carb at you soon. Look forward to it

Ehem ehem subtle hint right there. A bigger carb doesn't mean a quieter end can you know..

mesab0ogie · July 26, 2011

Yr 09 model is restricted if the previous owner didn't do anything about it.

not true. both mine and max's are 09 and its unrestricted. Im really not sure of how it worked but from what i know it seems that 06 models are not restricted. 07-08 is where the restricted started to be implemented. This is due to the learners restriction for EU countries, and derestricting kits were sold separately. For the 09, from what i know some came with restrictions and some without. after 09 onwards im really not sure coz i stopped drooling and reading about the RS(coz i already owned one =D)

btw im assuming restriction refers to Aprilias 11kw power restriction, where the pv was replaced by a blanking plate and there was no solenoid/rave unit.

wise_mumu · July 26, 2011

Ok, lots of insights. Learning a lot just by your sharing, so thanks to all. Hopefully I won't experience any expensive 'tuition fees'

As for rejetting, ok bit apprehensive since I have zero experience. How do you mix & match jets with exaust & filter? Is there a tool used to measure fuel flow rate to ensure you're getting the right air + fuel ratio? Or is it trial and error (i.e. fit new jet, run bike, take note of rpm if there's any bogging, check spark plug colors, rinse/repeat?). How many jets are there (pilot, main, any more?) Should I be taking note on how many turns it takes to do/undo the jet?

I guess I'll have to attempt it sometime and be glad that i'm only dealing with a single piston engine with no need to worry about synchronizing multiple carbs...

Sub Zero · July 26, 2011

And my bike is still faster than Vik's. No BS.

True that. No arguments there! I'm getting a transport bike soon, so I can convert my RS125 to full track use and tune it up real nice. Then we'll have a little shootout. (Read:I have no money to support this expensive bike and this is an excuse to ride it MUCH less and reduce wear and tear)

Dear Mr. mean....

600 is a bit toooooo expensive.. i will consider if it is half of the price, but i am sure you will not sell

I would probably stick with the current handle bar for the time being...

You're right, i am mean. I learn something when i first started riding. If you want it to be GOOD, it's never CHEAP. If you want it to be CHEAP, it's never GOOD. For your budget, you can get the cheap thailand rearsets floating around here. Or you can hunt ebay for some bargains.

He's not mean, he's being generous. $600 is a steal considering it's German-made quality and not made in China, and you'll be hard pressed to find a new set for less than $900 in SG, unless you order it online.

Rizoma is for posers. Stick to the tested and proven Playlife. haha

Brand new at Motorworld is anything from $680 to $780. Luckily, I got it 2ndhand. Cheapskate me!

i think around SGD80plus inclusive of shipping.

For you lazy bumps!!!! its gotten even cheaper. 40pounds inclusive of shipping.
K&N AL-1004

P.S credits given to Lawrence for experimenting AL-1004.

Thanks for stepping up and contributing. Another soul who's keen to help the community. Thumbs up!

Sub Zero · July 26, 2011

Ok, lots of insights. Learning a lot just by your sharing, so thanks to all. Hopefully I won't experience any expensive 'tuition fees'

As for rejetting, ok bit apprehensive since I have zero experience. How do you mix & match jets with exaust & filter? Is there a tool used to measure fuel flow rate to ensure you're getting the right air + fuel ratio? Or is it trial and error (i.e. fit new jet, run bike, take note of rpm if there's any bogging, check spark plug colors, rinse/repeat?). How many jets are there (pilot, main, any more?) Should I be taking note on how many turns it takes to do/undo the jet?

I guess I'll have to attempt it sometime and be glad that i'm only dealing with a single piston engine with no need to worry about synchronizing multiple carbs...

Attend the DIY by P PLaters and Mesaboogie. Your questions will be answered. But in short, it's alot of trial and error, and based on your riding.

CalCal · July 26, 2011

You seems new in here so let me point you to the right direction for once. Most of the aprilian goes to either Teck Thyte(David) or 37 Motoring(Ah Seng). If you are english speaking, kindly go to David. If you are fluent in Chinese or amazing good in hand/body languages, you can try ah seng.

Anyway, there might be a DIY session full of P PLATE coming up in Jurong area. And yes, we are not the supporter of Rock Oil.

Can I know the exact address of Ah Seng? Might be going down there. Ok, I'll be checking this thread regularly for any DIY session, thanks

lacrimosae · July 26, 2011

True that. No arguments there! I'm getting a transport bike soon, so I can convert my RS125 to full track use and tune it up real nice. Then we'll have a little shootout. (Read:I have no money to support this expensive bike and this is an excuse to ride it MUCH less and reduce wear and tear)

What the... I thought we were on a roll talking smack here. What happened to you? Suddenly become a goody-two-shoes? Don't wanna be e-thug and add to forum drama? Must talk some more smack so when we have the final showdown people will PAY to watch...

Tsk. Not sporting lah you. Old already become boring old man.

CalCal · July 26, 2011

Yr 09 model is restricted if the previous owner didn't do anything about it. Anyway, since you do not know when was the last servicing, do bring it to the recommend garage and do a servicing on the carb, valve and change gear oil. In that way you can start to keep track of yr own servicing records right? Basic servicing is very important for the Italian beast. It isn't like the SP or KRR which you can disregard the servicing at times. Mistreat it & it will throw you off the saddle.

From my past experiences, the only way to quickly learn about yr bike is to attend open DIY sessions & meetups/makan session. Be humble & people will be willing to impart their knowledge.

I'm not very sure about yr riding style. But i mainly kept the rev above 6k rpm. For the 1st gear when moving off, the 2k to 5k rpm will have low power. 5k to 5.5k rpm will splutter(my bike will be cough). 5.5k onward will be very smooth. In other words for my second gear onward, i will trrryyyyyy to maintain above 6k rpm but aint easy with all the speed humps.

Lastly please don't half clutch & drag your bike unnecessary. 6 piece of friction plates doesn't come cheap. Furthermore u are dragging it to 7k rpm. Do it only when you are going up slope' Your friend is somewhat right. You can't just release the clutch quickly when "moving off".

1) Throttle to 4/5k rpm
2) Release clutch to biting point & yr rpm should fall to around 3k
3) Maintain it the rpm starts climbing (Around half a sec)
4) once rpm starts to climb, fully release
P.S the above methods is only for MOVING OFF

Ok, I kind of get the picture now. But just to ask, if I still ride by releasing the clutch full then accelerate, yes I know it will be low rpm and accelerate slow and jerky. But will the rpm goes up to let say 10k eventually(on 2nd or 3rd gear)? Coz I ever tried that but I can only accelerate until 5k - 5.5k rpm(It will splutter) and it will not go up even if i open throttle some more. So is it like that?

Anyway my bike is an unrestricted one. The previous owner modded the CDI, but my tachometer limit is 12k. The previous owner also changed to iridium spark plug, reed valve and open port air-filter. But I got no idea what these things does to my bike.

Edited July 26, 2011 by CalCal

rafi92 · July 26, 2011

Can I know the exact address of Ah Seng? Might be going down there. Ok, I'll be checking this thread regularly for any DIY session, thanks

Kaki Bukit Road 1, Eunos technolink building. Level 1.

CalCal · July 26, 2011

Kaki Bukit Road 1, Eunos technolink building. Level 1.

Ok thanks bro!

xczxczxcz · July 26, 2011

What the... I thought we were on a roll talking smack here. What happened to you? Suddenly become a goody-two-shoes? Don't wanna be e-thug and add to forum drama? Must talk some more smack so when we have the final showdown people will PAY to watch...

Tsk. Not sporting lah you. Old already become boring old man.

lol @ "boring old man" =X

anw law, you seen the keihin carb i'm running on and mentioned you used it on your gf's bike before. what's the exact model of that carb? thanks in advance ( :

mesab0ogie · July 26, 2011

lol @ "boring old man" =X
anw law, you seen the keihin carb i'm running on and mentioned you used it on your gf's bike before. what's the exact model of that carb? thanks in advance ( :

keihin pwk35 if im not wrong, right law?

son9han · July 26, 2011

not true. both mine and max's are 09 and its unrestricted. Im really not sure of how it worked but from what i know it seems that 06 models are not restricted. 07-08 is where the restricted started to be implemented. This is due to the learners restriction for EU countries, and derestricting kits were sold separately. For the 09, from what i know some came with restrictions and some without. after 09 onwards im really not sure coz i stopped drooling and reading about the RS(coz i already owned one =D)

btw im assuming restriction refers to Aprilias 11kw power restriction, where the pv was replaced by a blanking plate and there was no solenoid/rave unit.

Yeah i find this quite amusing coz i've encountered some 09-10 model with 12k rpm...does it mean its full powered like the 06-07 model? or still have to mod/change the cdi? anyone knows??

lacrimosae · July 26, 2011

lol @ "boring old man" =X
anw law, you seen the keihin carb i'm running on and mentioned you used it on your gf's bike before. what's the exact model of that carb? thanks in advance ( :

keihin pwk35 if im not wrong, right law?

Correct. Keihin PWK35 Air Striker. Real btich to tune but much better than a Dell'Orto, even the flat slide Dell'Orto 34mm VHSB/LD Race carb.

xczxczxcz · July 26, 2011

Correct. Keihin PWK35 Air Striker. Real btich to tune but much better than a Dell'Orto, even the flat slide Dell'Orto 34mm VHSB/LD Race carb.

keihin pwk35 if im not wrong, right law?

weeeeee aite thanks alot DIY peeps!

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