Aprilia Riders

[wise_mumu]

BTW, the bike is sluggish at around 6k rpm. But before or after that rpm, it's smooth.

 

Is this a jetting issue? or the stock CDI retarding ignition for emissions purposes? Haven't checked if any mod was done to the CDI (i.e. cutting the bridge, btw, is this legal to do here in Singapore?) Thanks.

[rafi92]

BTW, the bike is sluggish at around 6k rpm. But before or after that rpm, it's smooth.

 

Is this a jetting issue? or the stock CDI retarding ignition for emissions purposes? Haven't checked if any mod was done to the CDI (i.e. cutting the bridge, btw, is this legal to do here in Singapore?) Thanks.

 

I'm really not a veteran (hell I think I'm worse than an amateur) in this but I think (note: think) it could be a jetting problem. Running rich perhaps? Not sure about that CDI mod too and whether it's necessary for our old bikes..

Edited July 25, 2011 by rafi92

[lacrimosae]

Hi All.

 

Newbie rs 125 rider here. Just got a 2nd hand 2004 bike about 3 weeks ago. I'm currently the 3rd owner.

 

I did some basic DIY maintenance. My first time doing it. I was anxious to do it knowing that a 2T is a relatively simple machine (less moving parts) than a 4T.

 

To my surprise, there's no airfilter inside the airbox. I was using the bike regularly for commute. Do you think there's any damage done to the pistons/carbs/block?

 

Anyway, I fitted an oiled foam filter which I bought from LAB. I noticed there are some cracks in the manifold, so I ordered online for a replacement.

 

Bike's running a 34 mm dellorto (not the racing one). I wanted to wash the carb but was too intimidated to attempt it!

 

I did clean the powervalve. Sprayed lots of wd40 in it as it was stuck. after about 30 minutes of spraying, I was able to take it out. I soaked it in wd40 to get rid of the gunk. When it was relatively clean (most of the gunk were out) i oiled it up (motul 710) and fitted it back in. I had no gasket sealant on hand, but gasket was in good shape so I think it's ok. I adjusted the cable a bit, checked to see the solenoid working (rev to just around 2.5k).

 

I took out the spark plug, noticed it was running denso iridium, but have no idea what model. Color was black (so i think it's running a bit rich). Cleaned with some wd40 and washcloth an placed it back in.

 

I have no idea on what my jettings are (too afraid to remove the carbs ). No idea of the compression ratio as the compression tester tool is yet to arrive.

 

Anyways, like I said, i ordered some stuff online which would be fitted in the comming weeks. A new manifold, a double bubble screen and a Boyesen reed valves are on the pipeline.

 

Hoping to be able to join some DIY sessions in the near future as I really want to learn through hands on.

 

I plan to keep my bike for sometime and hopefully be able to do all the necesarry maintenance myself. It's my first time doing anything significant "mechanicly". I ordered some tools, looking to invest in some quality stuff.

 

Thanks for taking time to read.

 

Impressive.

 

I recommend using petrol instead of WD-40 as petrol is cleaner. It leaves little residue behind. WD-40 leaves a teflon coat behind. I do not know the implications of this but I infer it's not in the engine's best interests since you dont run it on WD-40 all the time. There might be unforeseen consequences not yet manifested.

 

Also, there are pros and cons running a sponge filter.

 

It keeps the dust out of your engine so keeps engine running cleanly, but if you use a cheap sponge filter it will disintegrate over time and the crusty flakes getting sucked into the engine will cause a seizure. I HAVE SEEN THIS PERSONALLY. And not only just once.

 

I am using a K&N panel filter (meant for the Aprilia Tuono 1000) now. It is almost a perfect fit.

[wise_mumu]

Impressive.

 

I recommend using petrol instead of WD-40 as petrol is cleaner. It leaves little residue behind. WD-40 leaves a teflon coat behind. I do not know the implications of this but I infer it's not in the engine's best interests since you dont run it on WD-40 all the time. There might be unforeseen consequences not yet manifested.

 

Also, there are pros and cons running a sponge filter.

 

It keeps the dust out of your engine so keeps engine running cleanly, but if you use a cheap sponge filter it will disintegrate over time and the crusty flakes getting sucked into the engine will cause a seizure. I HAVE SEEN THIS PERSONALLY. And not only just once.

 

I am using a K&N panel filter (meant for the Aprilia Tuono 1000) now. It is almost a perfect fit.

 

Thanks for the insights. Sheesh, now I have to look out for a better filter! The K&N is more of a paper type filter if I'm not wrong. Anyone selling? Hopefully not so expensive...

 

OK, next valve washing, I will use petrol. I plan to wash every 2 weeks. I noticed improved performance after washing, and also notice the 'click' sound when the solenoid is activated.

 

BTW, when the tank is lifted and the bike is on its side stand (haven't got a paddock stand yet, hopefully by this weekend), I'm worried it might snap bolt holding the tank as the tank tends to lean towards the left. Removing the tank every now and then is a pain especially if it's fulltank. Actually, it's the putting it back together that's a pain.

 

Is there any special technique in cleaning the radiators? Lot's of things stuck in between (bugs, small stones). I haven't got a pressure washer and I'm afraid those car wash shops are not too careful in operating them and might soak them electics. On a more extreme case I might just remove the rad (change all coolants) and soak in some sort of solvent (is petrol ok?). There also doesn't seem to be a fan attached to the rads, so I must avoid getting stuck in a jam lest risk overheating. I guess RS's aren't really commuter bikes, just track bikes with some lights fitted

[vteclee]

i'm gonna wash valve soon .. anyone wanna wash ??

[mesab0ogie]

Yes it can be dangerous if you're running on an empty air box and your stoichiometric ratio is already lean to begin with the filter on

 

Theres no such thing as stoichiometric being lean or rich. The stoichiometric ratio of petrol is approx 14.7:1, meaning at this ratio theoretically there is perfect combustion. The term "lean" and "rich" is used in relation to this point ie anything higher is lean, anything lower is rich.

[crisisady]

BTW, when the tank is lifted and the bike is on its side stand (haven't got a paddock stand yet, hopefully by this weekend), I'm worried it might snap bolt holding the tank as the tank tends to lean towards the left. Removing the tank every now and then is a pain especially if it's fulltank. Actually, it's the putting it back together that's a pain.

 

Even thought i have a paddock, i will still removed the tank entirely if i'm working on the airbox or carb. A lot more room to work with

[mesab0ogie]

Is there any special technique in cleaning the radiators?

 

bro the special technique sth like this

 

[crisisady]

Thanks for the insights. Sheesh, now I have to look out for a better filter! The K&N is more of a paper type filter if I'm not wrong. Anyone selling? Hopefully not so expensive...

 

 

Its more of a cotton type of filter. With proper maintenance ( using K&N charging kit), it will last you very long. Probably till the day u sell scrape yr bike. Anyway, STARTING price is around SGD$80++ . It all depends on who you get from

[wise_mumu]

bro the special technique sth like this

 

 

LOL.

 

But i can no longer be considered a 'kid'

[wise_mumu]

Its more of a cotton type of filter. With proper maintenance ( using K&N charging kit), it will last you very long. Probably till the day u sell scrape yr bike. Anyway, STARTING price is around SGD$80++ . It all depends on who you get from

 

Cool. Ok, pricewise. Can you point me to a specific shop/person who sells one? Thanks!

[mesab0ogie]

Cool. Ok, pricewise. Can you point me to a specific shop/person who sells one? Thanks!

 

I have a pipercross cone filter for sale if u want. Its used, but still in very good condition. $30 only.

 

When i was running my stock setup(34mm carb, boyeseen reeds, arrow pipe) the pipercross filter served its purpose well, but ive moved on to a different setup which requires more airflow, so ive been forced to take off the pipercross and run on an open airbox, at least until i can find a more free flowing filter.

[lacrimosae]

The K&N is more of a paper type filter if I'm not wrong. Anyone selling? Hopefully not so expensive...

 

OK, next valve washing, I will use petrol. I plan to wash every 2 weeks. I noticed improved performance after washing, and also notice the 'click' sound when the solenoid is activated.

 

BTW, when the tank is lifted and the bike is on its side stand (haven't got a paddock stand yet, hopefully by this weekend), I'm worried it might snap bolt holding the tank as the tank tends to lean towards the left. Removing the tank every now and then is a pain especially if it's fulltank. Actually, it's the putting it back together that's a pain.

 

Is there any special technique in cleaning the radiators? Lot's of things stuck in between (bugs, small stones). I haven't got a pressure washer and I'm afraid those car wash shops are not too careful in operating them and might soak them electics. On a more extreme case I might just remove the rad (change all coolants) and soak in some sort of solvent (is petrol ok?). There also doesn't seem to be a fan attached to the rads, so I must avoid getting stuck in a jam lest risk overheating. I guess RS's aren't really commuter bikes, just track bikes with some lights fitted

 

Yes, a paper filter. But it will outlast your bike.

 

You should be able to hear the click even when you turn off the bike.

 

The hinge will break if you constantly leave the tank open while on the sidestand. Either remove the tank or use a paddock stand.

 

Use a plastic bristle brush and soap to wash. Dont use petrol.

 

Don't get stuck in jams. Or install an electrical coolant pump, minimum flow rate 15 litres per minute. My bike's maximum temperature without the electrical pump is 98 degrees C. With the pump, even in the worst jams, 78 degrees C. Normal riding temp without the pump 74 deg C, with the pump now 55 deg C.

 

Yes, our bikes are little more than a track bike fitted with lights and a non-functional pillion seat and pillion footrests. Non-functional because the bike's geometry and suspension was not designed to take passengers. They are there for legality issues. Track bikes are not allowed on the roads. Slap on pillion pegs and a passenger seat, voila you've got yourself a road legal bike.

[rafi92]

Theres no such thing as stoichiometric being lean or rich. The stoichiometric ratio of petrol is approx 14.7:1, meaning at this ratio theoretically there is perfect combustion. The term "lean" and "rich" is used in relation to this point ie anything higher is lean, anything lower is rich.

 

Sorry boss, got my sentence structure wrong, but I think you get what I mean

[wise_mumu]

I have a pipercross cone filter for sale if u want. Its used, but still in very good condition. $30 only.

 

When i was running my stock setup(34mm carb, boyeseen reeds, arrow pipe) the pipercross filter served its purpose well, but ive moved on to a different setup which requires more airflow, so ive been forced to take off the pipercross and run on an open airbox, at least until i can find a more free flowing filter.

 

Would I need to reject my carbs with this filter? Do I have to remove the stock airbox? Thanks.

[spark315]

Would I need to reject my carbs with this filter? Do I have to remove the stock airbox? Thanks.

 

hi bro.... you would need to "rejet" your carb to suit the filter and for that matter when you have other add on like pipe. jetting to ensure you have a smooth ride, proper power dissipation and fuel consumption. if you do not do so... you may experience bogginess through the RPM range and it may be quite prominent in certain rpm range. anyways kudos to you to be doing your own DIY....

[wise_mumu]

Thanks. Kinda not keen on re-jetting (i don't even know the current jets fitted, assuming 160 for the main jets based on some info from the web). Afraid to touch the carbs at the moment, need more time to research

 

The bike came with a Gianelli muffler. I think the stomach is still stock. Not sure if there's a cat-converter inside (model 2004).

 

At some point, i would like to repack that muffler. When I get hold of rivetting tool, and electric drill

 

Also, how do you decarbonize the stomach of the exaust? (I'll try to google but better to know first hand from those who did it i guess).

[Sub Zero]

I'd personally prefer if u were to keep the bike and carry on riding, but if the inevitable happens and u do intend to dekit ur bike, can i have dibs on ur forks? Of course im just saying this in the case of a hypothetical situation where u've made up ur mind to sell the bike. =D

 

Im gona go down to weda to get some jets today. I havent tried out the jets u gave me but im pretty sure the atomiser wont help. Im guessing i need a 262 at least. I just took a look at my plug. Im no plug reading expert but based on what ive googled, my low end jetting is way too rich. Im considering putting in a 38 pilot. It would be awesome if i can find other needles to play with, but they're pretty hard to get so i guess i just have to make the most out of readily available stuff.

 

Anyway now that my pipes done i can finally ride in peace. Dun need to keep checking back when im riding on expressway. haha. Its way silent now. Its so silent i can barely hear it idle with my helmet on.

 

Dibs on the forks too. I'll pay $50 more than whatever you offer to Lawrence. Wahahahaha.

You're going to down the atomiser from 264 to 262? An idiot has my 262, sorry couldnt provide you with it.

And I'm sure your pipes sound nice and crisp now!

 

Its more of a cotton type of filter. With proper maintenance ( using K&N charging kit), it will last you very long. Probably till the day u sell scrape yr bike. Anyway, STARTING price is around SGD$80++ . It all depends on who you get from

 

Mate, you got it online? How much was it then? Better to buy it online, then get it here. Btw, please dont dig up any of my old posts! Scary mate.

 

Cool. Ok, pricewise. Can you point me to a specific shop/person who sells one? Thanks!

 

Ebay, online.

 

Thanks. Kinda not keen on re-jetting (i don't even know the current jets fitted, assuming 160 for the main jets based on some info from the web). Afraid to touch the carbs at the moment, need more time to research

 

The bike came with a Gianelli muffler. I think the stomach is still stock. Not sure if there's a cat-converter inside (model 2004).

 

At some point, i would like to repack that muffler. When I get hold of rivetting tool, and electric drill

 

Also, how do you decarbonize the stomach of the exaust? (I'll try to google but better to know first hand from those who did it i guess).

 

I suggest you leave the decarbonize to the experts. As well as the packing. $80 for both at 37 Motoring.

Better still, get a proper aftermarket exhaust chamber if you're running on stock.

 

I wouldnt recommend using the pipecross cone filter. I have one too, and I felt it's abit restrictive! Like what Mesa said, the K&N is more free flowing, especially the K&N cone filter.

 

Lastly, it's nice to see someone so interested in DIY, Mr Lacrimosae will be soooo proud of you. Everyone might be chiming in to give you advice, but be sure you do your research to separate the good stuff from the BS.

[lacrimosae]

Would I need to reject my carbs with this filter? Do I have to remove the stock airbox? Thanks.

 

If you already are jetted on a filter, you do not need to rejet.

 

You do not need to remove your stock airbox. This panel filter fits into your current stock airbox. The cone/pod filters are different from the panel filters; they replace the airbox completely. Having the airbox is better. I use it for both city riding and track use. And my bike is still faster than Vik's. No BS.

[rafi92]

Would I need to reject my carbs with this filter? Do I have to remove the stock airbox? Thanks.

 

Yes you must reject and throw your carb away and run without a carb with the filter.

[lacrimosae]

Am going to do a little DIY tomorrow 8-11am. Carb wash, valve servicing, gear oil change.

 

Blk 21 Joo Seng Road, S360021.

 

No borrowing of tools though. I can't help you out because I've got a full day tomorrow. Very busy...

 

DIY is not open to guests tomorrow but you are welcomed to drop by and say hi, or talk bike.

[bs89]

Where can i buy GoPro HD at singapore ?

[lacrimosae]

Where can i buy GoPro HD at singapore ?

 

That's a question asked 3 days too late.

 

I was just in LA, bought my GoPro accessories there... Got the LCD BacPac for $80 and the Battery BacPac for $50.

 

GoPros sell for $300 there.

 

You can buy a GoPro in Singapore from StreamCast Asia. Be prepared to shell out though.

[xinkehew]

Hi dear friend, Mr 2ndhand!

 

I have a set of Gilles footrests going for $600! It's in gold, and really good condition! 2ndhand just how you like it! Not as good as other cheapo rearsets floating around here, but good enough for me. Made in Italy sadly. Might be too expensive for you.

 

Regarding the grips, I'd stick with good old PlayLife. I've ridden bikes with the basic Rizoma model all the way to the top tier Sportslux series, and I'm not impressed. The cheap Playlife has served me well. Time for you to check if anyone selling Rizoma 2ndhand as well! Smooth equates to no grip Mr 2ndhand. If you're happy with the stock, just stick to it. No point investing in Rizoma just for looks because you're too cheap.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dear Mr. mean....

 

600 is a bit toooooo expensive.. i will consider if it is half of the price, but i am sure you will not sell

 

I would probably stick with the current handle bar for the time being...

[lacrimosae]

Dear Mr. mean....

 

600 is a bit toooooo expensive.. i will consider if it is half of the price, but i am sure you will not sell

 

I would probably stick with the current handle bar for the time being...

 

He's not mean, he's being generous. $600 is a steal considering it's German-made quality and not made in China, and you'll be hard pressed to find a new set for less than $900 in SG, unless you order it online.

 

Rizoma is for posers. Stick to the tested and proven Playlife. haha