Problem moving off after stopping at traffic light...

[yUsHuN]

Hi to all S4 rider,

 

Just bought my 2nd hand Super4 spec II for 2 months and i'm having problem moving off after stopping at traffic lights...

 

when throttle, it's moving very slowly and will suddenly move off...

 

Anyone can help???

Edited February 4, 2009 by yUsHuN

[ElfTech]

ya man..i will have this problem too...i think is the clutch cable...i left my cable hanging out of the tank coz i use tag handlebar..

[eedwinn]

Wow, and I thought it's only my bike. Seems like its normal?

[loyjwe]

mayb air filter need service? clutch plate gone?

[ElfTech]

air filter i have jus clean few days back..so think its not that..but dunno abt clutch plate...

[yUsHuN]

last 1 months plus i went to a bike shop at yishun and the technician said that is something to do with my cabretor and ask me to change the 4 pins inside and i spent $100+ for that, but it's still the same after a few days...

haiz...

[Ah Pek]

Hi to all S4 rider,

 

Just bought my 2nd hand Super4 spec II for 2 months and i'm having problem moving off after stopping at traffic lights...

 

when throttle, it's moving very slowly and will suddenly move off...

 

Anyone can help???

 

Does it happened all the time at stop and go?

[BioMoDiFIed]

Actually it does have something to do with the carbs. It happened to me when i changed to bigger jets. Went to shop and my air and fuel was found not of the right ratio mix..so they retune my bike again, resynchronised the carbs again(well since it was their fault, get to do it for free) and VOILA! its as healthy as horse..Also try washing your carbs..mite also be some choke in ur pins...hope it helps..

[JbAtRaCeR]

Bro ah pek need you advice.I also have this problem after changing to kenso jet. Current setting is mainjet 107 on outer carbs(cylinder 1 and 4) , mainjet 110 on inner carbs(cylinder 2 and 3). Needle jet height is 4th clip position from top.

 

I found out that this setting is abit over rich when below 7-8krpm riding but when i whack till 9-11.5krpm it leans out. Took out the sparkplugs to read only the 1st cylinder got light tan colour(best colour that shows a/f ratio) on the the insulator,the rest is white.

 

I'm also using K&N filter,4-1 header and LV endcan.

Edited February 5, 2009 by JbAtRaCeR

[lawbah]

Its almost everytime for stop and go for me... dunno why leh... carbs also wash liao... only pins never change... all i could think of is clutch cable which i have yet to change...

[syarif]

god. i just had this problem 3 days ago!

 

move of jerky then suddenly fast. it also happens to other gears around 3-4rpm. the bike doesnt wanna go fast. have to drop gear and pull out. vtec doesnt roar anymore and bike sounds like frog.

 

went unique, service carbs and tune, change float needle for 120 in total. the problem at other gears is not that much, but still, a lil jerky sometimes.

 

at cruising speed around 70 to 90, evertything is okay, as usual. when it comes to slow corners, the problem starts.

 

i think its the clutch cable, or the plates.

[doubl3mint]

good to know i'm not alone too, haha.

 

to elaborate, does anyone also notice a slight vibration at the same time, which reduces as you move faster?

 

btw, i'm on a yoshi fs with dynojet

[lawbah]

Wah most of you have endcans, or pins changed... mine is all stock leh... -_-

 

How arh..? anybody?? For me is : Stop..... Lights turn green... want to move off... open throttle but the bike like i half clutch never release enough like that... then i open more throttle... suddenly move very fast.... -.-

 

Its like there is lag time like that... zzzzzzz

[syarif]

same! stock settings. i just need a few more bucks for a GPR endcan, and there goes the endcan money to repair the bike. Needa save mroe ady.

 

FOr me, the lag time is not a split second, but can go up to around 2 seconds if im on gear 6th.

[PaLmEr]

it usually happens for older machines (>2 years, 50k km)

 

Float pin may be worn out,

[Ah Pek]

Wah...sound like you all pump from the same petrol station from your friendly neighbourhood iszit....LOL! So..what do you huys all wanna do..meet up and discussed about it and have some solution?

[lawbah]

Wah...sound like you all pump from the same petrol station from your friendly neighbourhood iszit....LOL! So..what do you huys all wanna do..meet up and discussed about it and have some solution?

 

I pump Esso 95 ... hmm it not until you mentioned, i think when i pump msia petrol dun have too much of this problem leh....

 

it usually happens for older machines (>2 years, 50k km)

 

Float pin may be worn out,

 

Okok i go and check, thanks!! =)

[stsoh]

shop is out to make money from u.

if u always pump at jb, it is possible tat accumulation of water in your tank.

eventually when u start to use your reserve portion,

water will start to flow down to the carb thus this can start engine but can't drive problem or even engine juttering at cruising.

water in the tank is not much maybe a few cc but it is enough to kill engine performance.

u need to drain your carbs n tank so tat u can start with fresh fuel, preferably pump at sillypore.

 

had this problem many times for past few years when i always pump at jb.

 

drain every drops of fuel in your carb n tank into a container,

then pour back to your tank except the last bit at the bottom of the container.

water is heavy will sink to the bottom of the container,

it just a few cc of water or a few drops.

Edited February 5, 2009 by stsoh

[Ah Pek]

shop is out to make money from u.

if u always pump at jb, it is possible tat accumulation of water in your tank.

eventually when u start to use your reserve portion,

water will start to flow down to the carb thus this can start engine but can't drive problem or even engine juttering at cruising.

water in the tank is not much maybe a few cc but it is enough to kill engine performance.

u need to drain your carbs n tank so tat u can start with fresh fuel, preferably pump at sillypore.

 

had this problem many times for past few years when i always pump at jb.

 

:thumb:..yes! This is the first thing you guys should do as with what stsoh had said here before thing of defective components in your carbs. Open the carbs is the last thing I would want to do.

 

Just in case..the drain screw for the each carb is just at the bottom center. Its a flat head test pen size slotted screw. Just turn anticlockwise to release the sit in fuel. Make sure your engine is not hot. Total..all 4 of them.

[Ah Pek]

Bro ah pek need you advice.I also have this problem after changing to kenso jet. Current setting is mainjet 107 on outer carbs(cylinder 1 and 4) , mainjet 110 on inner carbs(cylinder 2 and 3). Needle jet height is 4th clip position from top.

 

I found out that this setting is abit over rich when below 7-8krpm riding but when i whack till 9-11.5krpm it leans out. Took out the sparkplugs to read only the 1st cylinder got light tan colour(best colour that shows a/f ratio) on the the insulator,the rest is white.

 

I'm also using K&N filter,4-1 header and LV endcan.

 

Not sure if I can be of help but I say below is just generically speaking for your case.

 

Not sure how you come about all the setting configuration..doesn't kenso jet comes with recommended setting and specifically recommended for S4 individual models? I dont understand why your cyclinder 1 & 4 setting is different with that of 2 & 3..doesn't the feed for A/F in line with "Venturi" process be totally off balance and all 4 carbs try yo synchronised?..doesn't make sense to have such a setting configuration.

 

Try to stick to the basic requirement first. For full system and third party endcan compare to vtec bike stock..things tend to go "lean". Have a good mech that understand the theory of this and just have the 4 carbs synchronised and tune for higher fuel and air mixtures..and as for the kenso, not sure what's the benefits, but do have it set 'standard' or as close to what the stock carbs comes with. Also there would be much in performance unless "advance" timing for strokes are invovled.

 

The best is to have reference taken from a PB1 carb setting as its configured for 4-1 exhaust. Of course value is different due to different jet kit manufacturer. Not sure who the original manufacturer for Honda is but it should nt be too far off in setting combination..do a cross reference if you have access to a PB1 carbs setting for the jetting and needle setup. All this can't be guess work and a "placebo" thingy as with "by feel". It cost $$$s to play as test equipment are needed to conclude.

 

Things can be very complicated and messy when stock setting are offset by baseless reference or do not come with specification for the third party product.

 

Just a side info..when you want to have "performance"..beside good exhaust system for breathing and good carbs tunning for A/F and balance with reference to carbs setting..you have to consider "CCA" (Cold Cranking Current) from your battery..this is strictly "electrical" and play a great part for better combustion..only a dyno testgraph can tell. Its all about the battery resistance and the cold current that it can produce to play a part in the "reaching the highest rev (maxs horsepower) at the shortest possible time. Talk to most car racing expert, they can explain better.

[JbAtRaCeR]

Not sure if I can be of help but I say below is just generically speaking for your case.

 

Not sure how you come about all the setting configuration..doesn't kenso jet comes with recommended setting and specifically recommended for S4 individual models? I dont understand why your cyclinder 1 & 4 setting is different with that of 2 & 3..doesn't the feed for A/F in line with "Venturi" process be totally off balance and all 4 carbs try yo synchronised?..doesn't make sense to have such a setting configuration.

 

Try to stick to the basic requirement first. For full system and third party endcan compare to vtec bike stock..things tend to go "lean". Have a good mech that understand the theory of this and just have the 4 carbs synchronised and tune for higher fuel and air mixtures..and as for the kenso, not sure what's the benefits, but do have it set 'standard' or as close to what the stock carbs comes with. Also there would be much in performance unless "advance" timing for strokes are invovled.

 

The best is to have reference taken from a PB1 carb setting as its configured for 4-1 exhaust. Of course value is different due to different jet kit manufacturer. Not sure who the original manufacturer for Honda is but it should nt be too far off in setting combination..do a cross reference if you have access to a PB1 carbs setting for the jetting and needle setup. All this can't be guess work and a "placebo" thingy as with "by feel". It cost $$$s to play as test equipment are needed to conclude.

 

Things can be very complicated and messy when stock setting are offset by baseless reference or do not come with specification for the third party product.

 

Just a side info..when you want to have "performance"..beside good exhaust system for breathing and good carbs tunning for A/F and balance with reference to carbs setting..you have to consider "CCA" (Cold Cranking Current) from your battery..this is strictly "electrical" and play a great part for better combustion..only a dyno testgraph can tell. Its all about the battery resistance and the cold current that it can produce to play a part in the "reaching the highest rev (maxs horsepower) at the shortest possible time. Talk to most car racing expert, they can explain better.

 

Before changing to this setup,I'm running stock needle jet with upgraded mainjet size 105 and 108. I played around with advancing the ignition,but found out that my mainjets were not enough.There's when i get kensojet. Comes with 1 pair of size 103,105,107,110,113,115 and a set 4's needlejets. Instructions in japanese so cannot even understand.

 

I'm also abit confused as why Vtec 3 carbs have 3 size up(main jet) for its center(2 and 3) cylinders. Is it because the outer(1 and 4) cylinders is extra cooled by air compared to the center ones?..

 

I'll try searching for the PB-1 carb settings for better cross refrence. Thanks bro,for your advice.

[syarif]

now, this thread is hot and kickin'!

[Ah Pek]

Before changing to this setup,I'm running stock needle jet with upgraded mainjet size 105 and 108. I played around with advancing the ignition,but found out that my mainjets were not enough.There's when i get kensojet. Comes with 1 pair of size 103,105,107,110,113,115 and a set 4's needlejets. Instructions in japanese so cannot even understand.

 

I'm also abit confused as why Vtec 3 carbs have 3 size up(main jet) for its center(2 and 3) cylinders. Is it because the outer(1 and 4) cylinders is extra cooled by air compared to the center ones?..

 

I'll try searching for the PB-1 carb settings for better cross refrence. Thanks bro,for your advice.

 

>>>why Vtec 3 carbs have 3 size up(main jet) for its center(2 and 3) cylinders. Is it because the outer(1 and 4) cylinders is extra cooled by air compared to the center ones?..

 

I believe it has something to do with the original exhaust manifold header design being 4-2-1. Check how the header manifold runs before it meet 2, meaning, does cyclinder 1 & 4 shares the same channel. Read about this in the old days when I had Honda shaft driven CX500 where the twin cyclinder manifold has to cross midway in a "expansion chamber" for back compression reason for low end to high end exhaust proper breathing throughput (Output relative to input). I may not be right but I thnk its somewhat related.

[JbAtRaCeR]

>>>why Vtec 3 carbs have 3 size up(main jet) for its center(2 and 3) cylinders. Is it because the outer(1 and 4) cylinders is extra cooled by air compared to the center ones?..

 

I believe it has something to do with the original exhaust manifold header design being 4-2-1. Check how the header manifold runs before it meet 2, meaning, does cyclinder 1 & 4 shares the same channel. Read about this in the old days when I had Honda shaft driven CX500 where the twin cyclinder manifold has to cross midway in a "expansion chamber" for back compression reason for low end to high end exhaust proper breathing throughput (Output relative to input). I may not be right but I thnk its somewhat related.

 

Dug out my ori headers under my bed ,cylinder 1 n 2 together ,3-4 together next they join as one output. What i realize is that in the airbox the center cylinders airstack is taller compared to the outer cylinder ones.

[Ah Pek]

Dug out my ori headers under my bed ,cylinder 1 n 2 together ,3-4 together next they join as one output. What i realize is that in the airbox the center cylinders airstack is taller compared to the outer cylinder ones.

 

"the airbox the center cylinders airstack is taller compared to the outer cylinder ones"...on mannn!...this are more complex than I thought. "Taller"..do you think its meant to 'slow' that portion of air input or what?