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[Technical] Engine Oil - All related matters in EO


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Posted

Motul 300v update

 

Strictly for TA200 riders reviews only

 

http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Aftermarket-Motorcycle-Products/Chemicals-Lubricants/4-Stroke-Motor-Oil/Bel-Ray-96262-Thumper-20W50-4-Stroke-Racing-Motor-Oil-1-Liter-Bottle.jpg

Belray thumper 20w50(Unique motorsports/hkl) $18

Hydher - After 1000k,gear shifting was slick 4.5/5

 

 

 

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_malaysia/STAGING/local_assets/images/products/mco_power14t_malaysia_375x253.jpg

Castrol Power 1 15w40 (Thailand) 100 baht / S$4.26

VidaK - Gear changing is a little stiff, engine sounds rough and top speed is much lower than before 2/5

jianping - worst EO on my bike, engine feels less powerful,noisy and rough.. need to throttle alot more to attain 90km/hr on expressway.. avoid this.. i bought at $12.. 1/5 :nono:

 

 

 

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_IHSFI5DXqm4/ShF8-VdH1fI/AAAAAAAADmQ/rMjBbBzoXdw/s512/DSC00359.JPG

Chessa Chex 9000 10w50 (planet) $16

VidaK - No gear changing problems, or other problems. Although there is more vibration then quality oils, it is good value for your money 4/5

jtzx- Great fully syn Eo. which is value for money which can last at least 2.5k millege 5/5

armani123sg- gd, no problems but didnt feel any diff comparing to FUCHS brand.

 

 

FUCHS [Which series?]15w50 (planet) $10

Hydher - I hated it after 1k, gear changing was rough as hell and stuck at neutrals 2/5

armani123sg- gd, no problems but didnt feel any diff comparing to CHEX brand.

 

 

http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Aftermarket-Motorcycle-Products/Chemicals-Lubricants/4-Stroke-Motor-Oil/Maxima-32901-Maxum4-Extra-100-Synthetic-4-Stroke-Motor-Oil-15W50-1-Liter-Bottle.jpg

Maxima 15w50 extra (planet) $21

VidaK - no problems with the bike, but compared to the chex, this oil lost outright since its much more expensive... 3/5

 

http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Aftermarket-Motorcycle-Products/Chemicals-Lubricants/4-Stroke-Motor-Oil/Maxima-35901B-Maxum4-Synthetic-Blend-4-Stroke-Motor-Oil-20W50-1-Liter-Bottle.jpg

Maxima 20w50 synblend (planet) $15

Hydher - Was used for long distance travelling. Was soso. 4/5

nuttybing - can feel the roughness in changing gears after around 1300km, so so only 3/5

 

http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Aftermarket-Motorcycle-Products/Chemicals-Lubricants/4-Stroke-Motor-Oil/Maxima-36901-Maxum4-Ultra-100-Synthetic-High-RPM-Formula-4-Stroke-Racing-Motor-Oil-5W50-1-Liter-Bottle.jpg

Maxima 5w50 ultra (planet) $23

VidaK - No doubt it is a good oil, but it is a little expensive 3.5/5

 

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff37/hydher/bike/IMG_0237.jpg

Mobil 20w50 $7

Pending reviews

 

http://www.motul.com.sg/product_line_up/4stroke/images/product_images/300V_4T_FACTORYLINE_15W50.jpg

Motul 300v 15w50 (planet) $28

VidaK - The smoothest is unreal. In fact top speed increased. 4.5/5

ckoonyin - very smooth; last me until 1000km before it started to get rough 4/5

icearmour- overall smoothness increased nicely:thumb:vibration still there but slightly lesser....4/5

 

http://www.motul.com.sg/product_line_up/4stroke/images/product_images/5100_4T_15W50_1L_A.jpg

Motul 5100 15w50 (semi)

nuttybing - Gear changing is really smooth, can feel the power along with the throttle, around 2000km can feel it deteriorating 4/5

ckoonyin - roughness was similar before i did EO change from Motul 300 3/5

 

http://www.motorcycle-road-and-race.co.uk/catalog/images/7100-full-synthetic-ester-motul-4l.jpg

 

Motul 7100 10w40 100% Syn Ester $22

lycan - still trying it out. feels smoother than Motul 5100.

 

 

 

NASA [Which series?]10w40 (planet) $10

Hydher - Not bad in all rounders even price. 4/5.

jtzx - pick up quite bad but over all good.. 3.5/5

armani123sg- acceleration faster, nicer sound, better than the FUCHS and CHEX but my FC decrease from usually 40km/hr on FUCHS/CHEX to 37km/hr on NASA... :)

 

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff37/hydher/bike/IMG_9969.jpg

Putoline SUPER DX 4 SEMI SYN $8 LAB

Rating 2.5/5. Useable for 2k and you get what you pay for.

 

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff37/hydher/bike/IMG_0242.jpg

Total 15w50 $8.90

jtzx - Bought this at carefour for only $5.90 for my DIy oiler.

 

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd246/tosco1122/HR50white.jpg

Verity 15w50 fully synthetic (planet) $26

VidaK - It is very good, but not the best. Quite expensive also... 3.5/5

Bajaj Pulsar 180 - May 2006 - May 2007

Hyosung Comet GT125- June 2008 - January 2010

Honda Phantom TA 200- January 2010 - 2012

Honda CB 400 Ver S - 2012 - Jan 2016

Adiva AD2 200 - Jan 2016 - July 2016

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Posted

http://www.melinhhypermarket.com.vn/Site/Upload/Product/Nhot%20Castrol%204T%201L.jpg

 

Castrol 4T 20W40 - MotoPoint (19 Jln Mas Puteh, West Coast area), $10

 

I'm giving this cheap, no nonsense oil 4/5 because it does its job well for everyday riding at normal speeds. Since it's so cheap it's perfect for running in a rebuilt engine, which benefits from regular oil changes to clear away debris as the engine wears in.

 

Good torque from 0-90kph but starts breaking up at anything above due to combination of short gearing and high RPMs. It would be 5/5 for medium duty, non highway use.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Good news. I had just changed my EO to chex9000 for only $14 at a workshop in AMK. It is call keng seng with red sign board as there are 2 shops with the same name ran by 2 different owner, it is the first shop when you turn into row of workshop.

 

Indeed it's a nice EO. :)

 

I am not a phantom rider but the EO is really value for $ for my bike.

Posted

Used Motul 300V (the thick mineral one) and managed to shear the oil completely to water (literally) over 3 weeks /2500km (est) of outings, and changed to Motul 5100 semisyn 15W50.

 

The semisyn oil offers significantly superior cold starting performance and excellent smoothness throughout the rev range. A bit quieter, too.

 

The previous mineral Motul 300v gave a "wet, smooth" feel to the engine, protected well at high rpms but broke down really fast in high temperature conditions.

Posted
  Kalyan said:
Used Motul 300V (the thick mineral one) and managed to shear the oil completely to water (literally) over 3 weeks /2500km (est) of outings, and changed to Motul 5100 semisyn 15W50.

 

The semisyn oil offers significantly superior cold starting performance and excellent smoothness throughout the rev range. A bit quieter, too.

 

The previous mineral Motul 300v gave a "wet, smooth" feel to the engine, protected well at high rpms but broke down really fast in high temperature conditions.

 

300v is a green, fully synthetic, double ester engine oil...

http://photos.friendster.com/photos/78/20/5760287/2_900727903l.jpg
Posted
  Kalyan said:
Used Motul 300V (the thick mineral one) and managed to shear the oil completely to water (literally) over 3 weeks /2500km (est) of outings, and changed to Motul 5100 semisyn 15W50.

 

The semisyn oil offers significantly superior cold starting performance and excellent smoothness throughout the rev range. A bit quieter, too.

 

The previous mineral Motul 300v gave a "wet, smooth" feel to the engine, protected well at high rpms but broke down really fast in high temperature conditions.

 

Er...i tot Motul 300v a fully syn EO?

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k129/ckoonyin/ThenandNowver2a.jpg
Posted
  Quote
what make u to decide to change at 2.5k km?

 

Higher than average mechanical noises and a change in engine 'feel' made me conclude the lubrication was breaking down. Sure enough, new oil went in and tofu smooth again.

 

EO life does depend on riding style and duration. As I'm doing outings with sportsbikes on a regular basis you can imagine the rest!

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

BUMP my thread

JOSHUA

class2B -26/2/09

class 2A -27/7/10

class 3 - 6/1/11

class 2 - 30/8/12

 

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad44/jtzx/Image0020_JROT42b4_edited.gif?t=1246004022

Posted
  mepkoh said:
so how much u pay for the semi??will it last any longer?..post when u next change eo

 

get ready for top ups....as synthetic oil tends to go away..i dont know where it just dissappear.

 

Did some reading up on this subject and yes apparently the oil mist may escape out of the airbox, as 4 strokes don't come with reed valves.

 

Changed my semi ($15 at Planet) at 1500km when the going sounded rough. I overheated the engine during DIY tuning sessions so as again I get to destroy engine oil for fun :3

Posted

O-W-S? Why no good? I used it for my first ever oil change plus i did the 3-in-1, currently using their chain lube, spark plug and their universal cleaner all very good products..

 

I just change EO to Bel-ray's Thumper 20w50, must say its pretty good on high speeds as vibrations lessen. Gear changes is smooth (:

Posted

Thumper has great reviews but it's hell of a thick oil. 20 weight when cold and 50 at operating temp (100 deg C). Will take a bit to warm up.

 

I'll be trying out AMSOIL 10W40 to see if a lighter oil is superior in cold starting and quieter running at speed.

 

50 weight is of course recommended for aircooled, older bikes like ours, I know.

Posted
  mepkoh said:
****..the last change of semi motul...planet charge me $16/L...and his mech pour 3L into bike...shish...those mech doesnt knowwhat they are doing..

 

hi bro mepkoh... u riding steed right? may i check with u how often u change ur EO... ah chong told me every 5000km. :)

Posted
  Kalyan said:
Thumper has great reviews but it's hell of a thick oil. 20 weight when cold and 50 at operating temp (100 deg C). Will take a bit to warm up.

 

I'll be trying out AMSOIL 10W40 to see if a lighter oil is superior in cold starting and quieter running at speed.

 

50 weight is of course recommended for aircooled, older bikes like ours, I know.

 

Maybe for my next EO change I will try the thumper 10w40 then amsoil. As i normally change my EO @ unqine motorsports toh guan. They carry both of brands.

 

 

My bike is getting used to the thumper's thick EO le. Feel smoother then yesterday's ride. :p

Posted

Thick EO gives better protection at WOT (wide open throttle) conditions, that's why race oils are usually the thicker variety.

 

For instance on a hot day going on an open highway at 110, you would want a thicker oil.

 

PKs have also preferred thick oils for veteran air cooled engines due to the greater tolerances between parts (hence a thicker oil film is better).

 

The counter argument which I'll try once this batch of Motul 5100 runs out is to try a good 10W40.

 

This is for better cold start protection (lighter oils have higher flow rate when cold) and of course, see if a $18 American fully synth oil from a well-reputed race lube company can be better than $16 Motul 5100.

Posted

Just came back from camp, super heavy rain. I realise that my gear changes are very stiff and hard to change in the cold. Sometimes the gears even jam up, like i can't kick it down untill i let go half clutch will hear the gear changes.

 

How about others? Maybe phantom's like that? Or the engine oil i use doesn't fit f or the cold?

Posted

which eo u using? once my gear changing was damn stiff after using chex 9000 for the 1st time for some reason, i TINK i anyhow pull my clutch cable here n there than ok liao... u might wana give it a try

Posted

Strictly for TA200 riders reviews only

 

http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Aftermarket-Motorcycle-Products/Chemicals-Lubricants/4-Stroke-Motor-Oil/Bel-Ray-96262-Thumper-20W50-4-Stroke-Racing-Motor-Oil-1-Liter-Bottle.jpg

Belray thumper 20w50(Unique motorsports/hkl) $18

Hydher - After 1000k,gear shifting was slick 4.5/5

 

 

 

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_malaysia/STAGING/local_assets/images/products/mco_power14t_malaysia_375x253.jpg

Castrol Power 1 15w40 (Thailand) 100 baht / S$4.26

VidaK - Gear changing is a little stiff, engine sounds rough and top speed is much lower than before 2/5

jianping - worst EO on my bike, engine feels less powerful,noisy and rough.. need to throttle alot more to attain 90km/hr on expressway.. avoid this.. i bought at $12.. 1/5 :nono:

 

 

 

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_IHSFI5DXqm4/ShF8-VdH1fI/AAAAAAAADmQ/rMjBbBzoXdw/s512/DSC00359.JPG

Chessa Chex 9000 10w50 (planet) $16

VidaK - No gear changing problems, or other problems. Although there is more vibration then quality oils, it is good value for your money 4/5

jtzx- Great fully syn Eo. which is value for money which can last at least 2.5k millege 5/5

armani123sg- gd, no problems but didnt feel any diff comparing to FUCHS brand.

 

 

FUCHS [Which series?]15w50 (planet) $10

Hydher - I hated it after 1k, gear changing was rough as hell and stuck at neutrals 2/5

armani123sg- gd, no problems but didnt feel any diff comparing to CHEX brand.

 

 

http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Aftermarket-Motorcycle-Products/Chemicals-Lubricants/4-Stroke-Motor-Oil/Maxima-32901-Maxum4-Extra-100-Synthetic-4-Stroke-Motor-Oil-15W50-1-Liter-Bottle.jpg

Maxima 15w50 extra (planet) $21

VidaK - no problems with the bike, but compared to the chex, this oil lost outright since its much more expensive... 3/5

 

http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Aftermarket-Motorcycle-Products/Chemicals-Lubricants/4-Stroke-Motor-Oil/Maxima-35901B-Maxum4-Synthetic-Blend-4-Stroke-Motor-Oil-20W50-1-Liter-Bottle.jpg

Maxima 20w50 synblend (planet) $15

Hydher - Was used for long distance travelling. Was soso. 4/5

nuttybing - can feel the roughness in changing gears after around 1300km, so so only 3/5

 

http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Aftermarket-Motorcycle-Products/Chemicals-Lubricants/4-Stroke-Motor-Oil/Maxima-36901-Maxum4-Ultra-100-Synthetic-High-RPM-Formula-4-Stroke-Racing-Motor-Oil-5W50-1-Liter-Bottle.jpg

Maxima 5w50 ultra (planet) $23

VidaK - No doubt it is a good oil, but it is a little expensive 3.5/5

 

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff37/hydher/bike/IMG_0237.jpg

Mobil 20w50 $7

Pending reviews

 

http://www.motul.com.sg/product_line_up/4stroke/images/product_images/300V_4T_FACTORYLINE_15W50.jpg

Motul 300v 15w50 (planet) $28

VidaK - The smoothest is unreal. In fact top speed increased. 4.5/5

ckoonyin - very smooth; last me until 1000km before it started to get rough 4/5

icearmour- overall smoothness increased nicely:thumb:vibration still there but slightly lesser....4/5

 

http://www.motul.com.sg/product_line_up/4stroke/images/product_images/5100_4T_15W50_1L_A.jpg

Motul 5100 15w50 (semi)

nuttybing - Gear changing is really smooth, can feel the power along with the throttle, around 2000km can feel it deteriorating 4/5

ckoonyin - roughness was similar before i did EO change from Motul 300 3/5

 

http://www.motorcycle-road-and-race.co.uk/catalog/images/7100-full-synthetic-ester-motul-4l.jpg

 

Motul 7100 10w40 100% Syn Ester $22

lycan - still trying it out. feels smoother than Motul 5100.

 

 

 

NASA [Which series?]10w40 (planet) $10

Hydher - Not bad in all rounders even price. 4/5.

jtzx - pick up quite bad but over all good.. 3.5/5

armani123sg- acceleration faster, nicer sound, better than the FUCHS and CHEX but my FC decrease from usually 40km/hr on FUCHS/CHEX to 37km/hr on NASA... :)

 

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff37/hydher/bike/IMG_9969.jpg

Putoline SUPER DX 4 SEMI SYN $8 LAB

Rating 2.5/5. Useable for 2k and you get what you pay for.

 

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff37/hydher/bike/IMG_0242.jpg

Total 15w50 $8.90

jtzx - Bought this at carefour for only $5.90 for my DIy oiler.

 

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd246/tosco1122/HR50white.jpg

Verity 15w50 fully synthetic (planet) $26

VidaK - It is very good, but not the best. Quite expensive also... 3.5/5

JOSHUA

class2B -26/2/09

class 2A -27/7/10

class 3 - 6/1/11

class 2 - 30/8/12

 

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad44/jtzx/Image0020_JROT42b4_edited.gif?t=1246004022

Posted

I'm using the Bel-Ray Thumper 20W50.. Right now after rain still stiff.. Dunno what's wrong.. Maybe I change fuel? Because I'm using v-power before i pump today - shell 98. Does it affect?

Posted

May I know how long have you been using the Thumper oil?

 

These oils are all multigrade and winter-capable (hence the W), so Singapore temperatures fall well within the designed range of a 20W50.

 

Fuel does not affect gear changes (at least, not these days were fuel quality is assured), so try working the gears up and down to see if whatever's sticking can be worked free. The gears should have constant oil supply once the engine is warmed up and oil viscosity issues are no longer a factor.

 

I'd inspect the oil level and if problem persists, change the oil as water contamination can degrade the EO's lubrication properties. If any water got into the oil in the first place (check tightness of oil cap!).

 

You may also want to try a 10W40 next; heavier oil does give more resistance to flow at low temperatures. But I would prefer the 50-weight for superior protection at high temps and wide open throttle conditions (which we do all the time on the highway and to overtake). Rainstorms don't happen every day :3

 

I won't mind dropping by for a test ride tomorrow or what, so give me a ring at 9 327 0801. Or visit us at the Dam later (After 11.30)

Posted

Hey thank you so much for the information. After riding for 100k ++ km my gear changes are back! Its getting better. But sometimes still having problem going down gear..

 

Err sorry new to this PK forum just got my bike for less then a month. Where's Dam?

Posted

No worries - kudos to you for bringing the matter up in the first place; after many years of kena makan by "knowledgeable" mechanics at bike shops I believe that we should attempt self diagnosis first before risking a $500 bill for what may be a minor issue.

 

Dam implies the Yishun Dam, where PKs meet up every Saturday night / up to Sunday morning 3am. The turnout may sometimes not be spectacular but it's a good rendezvous point for any mechanical or bike care discussions.

 

It may or may not help but try to rev the engine freely (don't short-shift too much), and if you have a wide open road ahead and you need to slow down, do engine braking.

 

The bike may not have been ridden for a long time before you bought it, or lousy engine oil was used causing premature wear. You just got to whip her into shape all over again :3

 

Was the bike ever sent in for overhaul and/or gearbox repairs before you took ownership? Clutch plate might be an issue; may want to bring it in for the clutch cable / free play to be adjusted as necessary. Hopefully there's nothing wrong with your clutch assembly itself.

Posted

When i bought it its a FBB 2007 bike with 9k mileage. So i'm guessing its very new?

No overhaul or gearbox reepairs have been made. Where is the clutch plate at for phantom? Mine is the round exhast phantom.

And for me at 100 the vibrations are very bad. Dunno is it consider bad. But its really shaking.

Posted (edited)

Very new. Here's hoping the tight gears are due to the parts not being worn yet. When the bike is 8 yrs old like mine, it will be relatively loose and effortless to shift (speedshifting possible w/o damage, even)

 

I don't recommend going beyond 100 on the stock sprocket ratios as the RPMs are just skyrocketing away. Yes, a Phantom can reach 155kph...

 

With synthetic oil, smaller rear/bigger front sprocket and a well tuned engine. I don't advise top speed runs on our dear ladies :3

 

At least not until we've ironed out all the little things and are confident enough to attempt max. horsepower on the open highways.

 

Vibrations - here's guessing it's not a mechanical fault, as we are on 2B bikes (and for your case without aero improvements). Resonance frequency of the handlebars differ between bikes and I won't worry about it.

 

Mine vibrates from 80-90 and it may not be advisable to ride one handed at this speed but if I whack it to 100 the vibrations disappear and the RPMs are just scary to me. I've not dared to go any faster as old Phantoms don't have rev limiters and I've yet to customise the sprocket ratios.

Edited by Pandora's Kitten :3
Posted

Ah that's something new i didn't know. We are able to change sprockets to aftermarket ones or just honda ones? I changed to bel-ray and its semi-synthetic oil. I heard chex9000 is good but only found in planet.

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