spark to the max

[holdurhead]

ya.. so its normal if my sus is very soft ah? no la, sometimes need to pillion ppl so jus asking lo.. and my rear sus got the creek creek sound. isit becoz no more oil at rear sus?

 

so i jus go to the mech and tell them 'help me bleed my brake line properly as its not very jiak' ah?

 

ya, we were taught the 60% 40% but the prob is ah. my rear brake really very very jia lat ah. will help to slow down but very very little and got the screeching sound oso. check the brake pad still got a lot lei. jia lat man.

 

thanks thanks thanks in advanced!!!

[STARRMOOOCHIE]

ya.. so its normal if my sus is very soft ah? no la, sometimes need to pillion ppl so jus asking lo.. and my rear sus got the creek creek sound. isit becoz no more oil at rear sus?

 

so i jus go to the mech and tell them 'help me bleed my brake line properly as its not very jiak' ah?

 

ya, we were taught the 60% 40% but the prob is ah. my rear brake really very very jia lat ah. will help to slow down but very very little and got the screeching sound oso. check the brake pad still got a lot lei. jia lat man.

 

thanks thanks thanks in advanced!!!

 

my guess is your bike sat in southern motors too long liao.

 

suspension: no oil? very unlikely. your bike only 6-7mths old. just ride often and let it adapt back. OEM suspensions are soft but stable. thats just normal. if its wobbly and tend to vibrate alot, then you have an issue.

 

rear brakes: your brake pads might seem new but its probably harden after not been used for sometime. same, ride often and break it in. the sound should dissappear and braking effect should be back to normal. give it 3days or so. if it still persists, go to your mech, have it checked and bleed it.

 

BRAKE BLEEDING is the procedure performed on hydraulic brake systems whereby the brake lines (the pipes and hoses containing the brake fluid) are purged of any air bubbles. This is necessary because, while the brake fluid is an incompressible liquid, air bubbles are compressible gas and their presence in the brake system greatly reduces the hydraulic pressure that can be developed within the system.

[holdurhead]

my guess is your bike sat in southern motors too long liao.

 

suspension: no oil? very unlikely. your bike only 6-7mths old. just ride often and let it adapt back. OEM suspensions are soft but stable. thats just normal. if its wobbly and tend to vibrate alot, then you have an issue.

 

rear brakes: your brake pads might seem new but its probably harden after not been used for sometime. same, ride often and break it in. the sound should dissappear and braking effect should be back to normal. give it 3days or so. if it still persists, go to your mech, have it checked and bleed it.

 

BRAKE BLEEDING is the procedure performed on hydraulic brake systems whereby the brake lines (the pipes and hoses containing the brake fluid) are purged of any air bubbles. This is necessary because, while the brake fluid is an incompressible liquid, air bubbles are compressible gas and their presence in the brake system greatly reduces the hydraulic pressure that can be developed within the system.

 

ok man.. thanks.. will do it and see how it goes..

[mild_slevin]

my guess is your bike sat in southern motors too long liao.

 

suspension: no oil? very unlikely. your bike only 6-7mths old. just ride often and let it adapt back. OEM suspensions are soft but stable. thats just normal. if its wobbly and tend to vibrate alot, then you have an issue.

 

rear brakes: your brake pads might seem new but its probably harden after not been used for sometime. same, ride often and break it in. the sound should dissappear and braking effect should be back to normal. give it 3days or so. if it still persists, go to your mech, have it checked and bleed it.

 

BRAKE BLEEDING is the procedure performed on hydraulic brake systems whereby the brake lines (the pipes and hoses containing the brake fluid) are purged of any air bubbles. This is necessary because, while the brake fluid is an incompressible liquid, air bubbles are compressible gas and their presence in the brake system greatly reduces the hydraulic pressure that can be developed within the system.

 

thanks for correcting me

could the screeching sound cause by brake dust?

 

ya.. so its normal if my sus is very soft ah? no la, sometimes need to pillion ppl so jus asking lo.. and my rear sus got the creek creek sound. isit becoz no more oil at rear sus?

 

so i jus go to the mech and tell them 'help me bleed my brake line properly as its not very jiak' ah?

 

ya, we were taught the 60% 40% but the prob is ah. my rear brake really very very jia lat ah. will help to slow down but very very little and got the screeching sound oso. check the brake pad still got a lot lei. jia lat man.

 

thanks thanks thanks in advanced!!!

 

Hmmm how about try riding it for a week or 2, monitor the situation if it doesn't improve then try the above suggestion?

[holdurhead]

ok thanks bro. i would like to ask another Q.

 

my bike ah, when i change to 2nd gear, can no need to clutch in lei. but will have a slight jerk. when i down gear ah, also no need to clutch in lei..

 

i read from this forum somewhere. 1 guy said that its possible to change gear w/o clutching in provided that the speed and ur gear tally and the bike mus neither be accelerating nor deccelerating..

 

but what i would like to ask is, what the above mentioned is true. but i usually clutch in when changing gears. afraid it would damage my clutch plate and so..

 

and also my alignment for the front tyre and handlebar doesnt tally lei. handlebar str8 = tyre more to left. tyre str = handlebar more to right.

my fren say jus bring to shop. the person will kick the tyre for you that str8 liao. like that wont damage the fork or wheel bearing ah?

 

last q. mech advise me 1month change e/o 1 time. i travel ard 1000km the most for 1 month.. if always change should be wont spoil the engine hor? and ppl recommend me use fully syn oil. not semi. so fully better ah?

 

ps ah. i really pump all my $$ into this bike already. so really mus tc of tis bike.

Edited July 15, 2009 by holdurhead

[STARRMOOOCHIE]

ok thanks bro. i would like to ask another Q.

 

my bike ah, when i change to 2nd gear, can no need to clutch in lei. but will have a slight jerk. when i down gear ah, also no need to clutch in lei..

 

i read from this forum somewhere. 1 guy said that its possible to change gear w/o clutching in provided that the speed and ur gear tally and the bike mus neither be accelerating nor deccelerating..

 

but what i would like to ask is, what the above mentioned is true. but i usually clutch in when changing gears. afraid it would damage my clutch plate and so..

 

and lastly.. my alignment for the front tyre and handlebar doesnt tally lei. handlebar str8 = tyre more to left. tyre str = handlebar more to right.

my fren say jus bring to shop. the person will kick the tyre for you that str8 liao. like that wont damage the fork or wheel bearing ah?

 

ps ah. ask a lot

 

wah kaoz

bro. seems like you've been hearing lots of interesting stuff lately. haha.

 

 

 

Clutching issues: i wonder how does one estimate the speed of the bike tallies with the gear ratio, yet bike is neither accelerating nor decelerating? as soon as you ease off the throttle, the bike decelerates tio bo? yes, its possible to change gears without clutching-in. but very soon, all hell will break loose in your engine. "think" broken gear shafts, burnt clutch plates and bits and pieces of your camshaft all over. unless our bikes are equipped with tiptronic sensors like F1 cars, never change gears without clutching in.

 

ps. do you know that even auto-bikes or clutchless-bikes actually have clutch? the only difference is, the engine engages the clutch during gear change.even ROSSI clutches-in

 

 

 

Alignment issues: ask him go kick his own head ahh. kicking would damage your front wheel bearing. after kicking, it might seem straight, but then your front will start to wobble when riding.

 

I had the same issue with my bike initially. 1st hand. consulted my frens, but they dun know ****. so i brought it to my trusted mech. did alignment and balancing. case closed!

 

 

EO issues: go for fully-syn if its within your budget. even though the manual says every 1000km. its not reallie necessary since your using fully-syn. fully-syn EOs can usually last you a good 2500km or more depending on the grade and quality.

[FTW]

wah kaoz

bro. seems like you've been hearing lots of interesting stuff lately. haha.

 

 

 

Clutching issues: i wonder how does one estimate the speed of the bike tallies with the gear ratio, yet bike is neither accelerating nor decelerating? as soon as you ease off the throttle, the bike decelerates tio bo? yes, its possible to change gears without clutching-in. but very soon, all hell will break loose in your engine. "think" broken gear shafts, burnt clutch plates and bits and pieces of your camshaft all over. unless our bikes are equipped with tiptronic sensors like F1 cars, never change gears without clutching in.

 

ps. do you know that even auto-bikes or clutchless-bikes actually have clutch? the only difference is, the engine engages the clutch during gear change.even ROSSI clutches-in

 

 

 

Alignment issues: ask him go kick his own head ahh. kicking would damage your front wheel bearing. after kicking, it might seem straight, but then your front will start to wobble when riding.

 

I had the same issue with my bike initially. 1st hand. consulted my frens, but they dun know ****. so i brought it to my trusted mech. did alignment and balancing. case closed!

 

 

EO issues: go for fully-syn if its within your budget. even though the manual says every 1000km. its not reallie necessary since your using fully-syn. fully-syn EOs can usually last you a good 2500km or more depending on the grade and quality.

 

the sifu has spoken.. basically, you need to go the problems and learn from it because not everyone here might know what exactly happens to your bike.. just ask your mech what you wanna know about what's wrong and hopefully he'll give you his honest answer

[holdurhead]

the sifu has spoken.. basically, you need to go the problems and learn from it because not everyone here might know what exactly happens to your bike.. just ask your mech what you wanna know about what's wrong and hopefully he'll give you his honest answer

 

ya man. nowadays want to find good mech very hard. plus my previous bike rarely send for servicing as it doesnt have much prob so i always hop here n there to change e/o. any 1 got good mech to recommend?

[STARRMOOOCHIE]

ya man. nowadays want to find good mech very hard. plus my previous bike rarely send for servicing as it doesnt have much prob so i always hop here n there to change e/o. any 1 got good mech to recommend?

 

UNIQUE MOTORSPORTS. Quality workshop for general servicing and some aftermarket stuffs. skilled mechs. excellent customer service. competitively priced. wide range of products.

 

my general opinion thats all. no pun intended. please do not flame me. they might not be the best, but they generally are one of the few good ones.

[STARRMOOOCHIE]

the sifu has spoken.. basically, you need to go the problems and learn from it because not everyone here might know what exactly happens to your bike.. just ask your mech what you wanna know about what's wrong and hopefully he'll give you his honest answer

 

not sifu. just your friendly fellow cubkia... haha.. lol..

[mild_slevin]

ok thanks bro. i would like to ask another Q.

 

my bike ah, when i change to 2nd gear, can no need to clutch in lei. but will have a slight jerk. when i down gear ah, also no need to clutch in lei..

 

i read from this forum somewhere. 1 guy said that its possible to change gear w/o clutching in provided that the speed and ur gear tally and the bike mus neither be accelerating nor deccelerating..

 

but what i would like to ask is, what the above mentioned is true. but i usually clutch in when changing gears. afraid it would damage my clutch plate and so..

 

and also my alignment for the front tyre and handlebar doesnt tally lei. handlebar str8 = tyre more to left. tyre str = handlebar more to right.

my fren say jus bring to shop. the person will kick the tyre for you that str8 liao. like that wont damage the fork or wheel bearing ah?

 

last q. mech advise me 1month change e/o 1 time. i travel ard 1000km the most for 1 month.. if always change should be wont spoil the engine hor? and ppl recommend me use fully syn oil. not semi. so fully better ah?

 

ps ah. i really pump all my $$ into this bike already. so really mus tc of tis bike.

 

Yes u can engage gear without clutching, not necessary to execute this move while ur clutch still functioning right? Still the clutch is important as it connect the engine speed to the gears. Smoother transition.

 

If you change EO every 1000km, think semi syn will do. But I usually change every 3mths... which is equivalent to 3000km (*my style of ride plus distance covered throughout this period)

[holdurhead]

ok thanks man~

[thrasher]

well. regarding engine oil... to me, its rarely abt the type and brand of oil. its abt the frequency you change it. i change my eo and filter every 1000km. semi or fully. works for me.