[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[Dkoh]

Hey bro, I know you asked Ah Pen, but just itchy to reply! Before you apply a new coat of high-temp paint, be sure to sand off the rusty area with sandpaper + water. Read Ah Pek's previous posts regarding this.

 

Sand and sand until you remove all the rust. Then you can either just apply layer after layer of high-temp spray, or apply a high-temp primer? first before spray-painting with high-temp spray.

 

I just sanded down and sprayed about 7 coatings of RJ high-temp. So far so good. But you can be sure that 6 months down the road, the area will turn white and start to rust again.

 

Hey krafadaw, thanks for teaching me.

 

Anyway, u mean i just had to sand down all the rust area and apply layers of high temperature paint onto it? (Where to get this high temp paint)

 

And do u have any idea any workshop doing such painting???

 

(Damn i sound like a noob here................LOL)

[Marcheline]

Unique motorsports charges $30, will take about 4 hrs.

 

Doing yourself and getting dirty. Priceless. HHehe

 

Any hardware shop sells its. RJ High temp spray. About $6 to $8. One can is enuff

[smiley73]

Hey krafadaw, thanks for teaching me.

 

Anyway, u mean i just had to sand down all the rust area and apply layers of high temperature paint onto it? (Where to get this high temp paint)

 

And do u have any idea any workshop doing such painting???

 

(Damn i sound like a noob here................LOL)

 

any bikeshop can do...

 

If diy make sure got your tools rite.

[Ah Pek]

Hey bro, I know you asked Ah Pen, but just itchy to reply! Before you apply a new coat of high-temp paint, be sure to sand off the rusty area with sandpaper + water. Read Ah Pek's previous posts regarding this.

 

Sand and sand until you remove all the rust. Then you can either just apply layer after layer of high-temp spray, or apply a high-temp primer? first before spray-painting with high-temp spray.

 

I just sanded down and sprayed about 7 coatings of RJ high-temp. So far so good. But you can be sure that 6 months down the road, the area will turn white and start to rust again.

 

Wah..can open exhaust paint refurbishing shop liao Thanks mannn..save me lots of typing.

 

Ok..some extra info...

 

1)

Don't sand all the rust...remove only the loose flakey ones..those that is very fine and tough...leave it on..get a bottle of "Rust Converter"(available in most HDB type hardware shop)..paint over the rust with a small brush..the rust naturally turns black instantly and dry very fast. This layer becomes "metal oxide" and help seal off wetness and oxygen directly to your exhaust cast iron. You can do this without detaching your exhaust..if this is the case..stat your engine and run that part hot..if your exhaust is taken out to be work on..sue a portable butane torch to bake that area.

 

2)

Heat resistance primer?..well sort of and is easily available. It's actually pure "zinc" known as "Cold Galvaniser"..available in most hardware shop that sells paint...comes in aersol can..many brands..think LPS and 3M should be good..check if it specify heat range..but there is some that is label so. Its greyish in colour...spray over the prep surface of your exhaust when the surface metal is warm...not hot. After 5 to 10 mins drying time..sand likely to make the surface 'rough' (use very fine sand paper so it would not remove the galvaniser totally) and start engine for exhaust to be hot to baked it again. Do this as many layers as you want..but 3 to 4 should suffice.

 

The work done till this stage will prevent long term protection for your bare exhaust surface from wetness and seal out oxygen and zinc galvaniser is made for this intent.

 

3)

Now followed what krafadaw does with the hi-temp paint except that make sure the area cover per layer is fully cover...thinly sprayed..sand down...heat to bake one layer after the other.

 

All this fun DIY hardwork and fun should last you more than a year.

 

CAUTION: Do Not Do This On A Rainy Day!

 

WHY?

 

Raining Day: The air is dense with wetness (moisture) and the environmental temperature would not be right for the paint when it leaves the nozzle to your target surface..resulting in improper curing paint properties.

 

Baked: Paint will expand and thin out when its hot and contract again when cool off. This way..the property of the paint is "seasoned"..meaning "stretch and shrink" treated..thus would crack or flake.

 

Thin Layer: Thick paint work tends to be soft and 'spongy' and do not sit well on the layer below and tends to trapped moisture in the spraying process.

 

Sanding Down : Creating fine rough surface helps the next layer spray on to grip, blend and merge better..and even better when baked.

 

Zinc : Galavnisation helps block out total exposure to oxygen..even got water but no oxygen equates no rust.

 

Prep: Surface preparation..most important before any work done.

 

Good luck and have fun

 

No bike shop will do this method for you..so have fun.

 

Wah_lau....still have to type so much!

[edition]

(water)h20 + (oxygen)02 = rust + + $$$s:faint:

 

haha bo bian if u wan ur pipe to look swee if nt jus ignore it .. i envy ur exhaust nt like ours will kana tis kind of ting ..

[Hondaman]

i finally know there is a difference between dirty bike and clean bike. havent been washing my bike for quite some time even after penang n melaka. The rain did the cleaning yet damn dirty. Ride feels heavy and the performance feels sluggish.

 

Today got MC so in pain also I wash bike. After wash and clean all the dusty and sandy parts, the bike performance back to normal and the throttling feels better.

 

no wonder some countries fined you if found your vehicle dirty.

[Marcheline]

i finally know there is a difference between dirty bike and clean bike. havent been washing my bike for quite some time even after penang n melaka. The rain did the cleaning yet damn dirty. Ride feels heavy and the performance feels sluggish.

 

Today got MC so in pain also I wash bike. After wash and clean all the dusty and sandy parts, the bike performance back to normal and the throttling feels better.

 

no wonder some countries fined you if found your vehicle dirty.

 

A full-body bath and your baby's back to normal! Heheh. Wah Ah Pek, you typed so much. Think I'm going to do that.... 6 months down the rd.

[Ah Pek]

i finally know there is a difference between dirty bike and clean bike. havent been washing my bike for quite some time even after penang n melaka. The rain did the cleaning yet damn dirty. Ride feels heavy and the performance feels sluggish.

 

Today got MC so in pain also I wash bike. After wash and clean all the dusty and sandy parts, the bike performance back to normal and the throttling feels better.

 

no wonder some countries fined you if found your vehicle dirty.

 

Like dat...no need Mototiam and mechanic liao...need MC!

[edition]

haha ya lor .. hondaman my bike need u to get another mc .. hehe

[Dkoh]

any bikeshop can do...

 

If diy make sure got your tools rite.

 

Haha.... Thanks... tools is not a problem, i run a workshop with 30plus toolboxs.....LOL. The only problem is i can't use the workshop to do my own bike...Have to take the tools and do it at HDB carpark....

 

Anyway Thanks for the info...

[Dkoh]

Wah..can open exhaust paint refurbishing shop liao Thanks mannn..save me lots of typing.

 

Ok..some extra info...

 

1)

Don't sand all the rust...remove only the loose flakey ones..those that is very fine and tough...leave it on..get a bottle of "Rust Converter"(available in most HDB type hardware shop)..paint over the rust with a small brush..the rust naturally turns black instantly and dry very fast. This layer becomes "metal oxide" and help seal off wetness and oxygen directly to your exhaust cast iron. You can do this without detaching your exhaust..if this is the case..stat your engine and run that part hot..if your exhaust is taken out to be work on..sue a portable butane torch to bake that area.

 

2)

Heat resistance primer?..well sort of and is easily available. It's actually pure "zinc" known as "Cold Galvaniser"..available in most hardware shop that sells paint...comes in aersol can..many brands..think LPS and 3M should be good..check if it specify heat range..but there is some that is label so. Its greyish in colour...spray over the prep surface of your exhaust when the surface metal is warm...not hot. After 5 to 10 mins drying time..sand likely to make the surface 'rough' (use very fine sand paper so it would not remove the galvaniser totally) and start engine for exhaust to be hot to baked it again. Do this as many layers as you want..but 3 to 4 should suffice.

 

The work done till this stage will prevent long term protection for your bare exhaust surface from wetness and seal out oxygen and zinc galvaniser is made for this intent.

 

3)

Now followed what krafadaw does with the hi-temp paint except that make sure the area cover per layer is fully cover...thinly sprayed..sand down...heat to bake one layer after the other.

 

All this fun DIY hardwork and fun should last you more than a year.

 

CAUTION: Do Not Do This On A Rainy Day!

 

WHY?

 

Raining Day: The air is dense with wetness (moisture) and the environmental temperature would not be right for the paint when it leaves the nozzle to your target surface..resulting in improper curing paint properties.

 

Baked: Paint will expand and thin out when its hot and contract again when cool off. This way..the property of the paint is "seasoned"..meaning "stretch and shrink" treated..thus would crack or flake.

 

Thin Layer: Thick paint work tends to be soft and 'spongy' and do not sit well on the layer below and tends to trapped moisture in the spraying process.

 

Sanding Down : Creating fine rough surface helps the next layer spray on to grip, blend and merge better..and even better when baked.

 

Zinc : Galavnisation helps block out total exposure to oxygen..even got water but no oxygen equates no rust.

 

Prep: Surface preparation..most important before any work done.

 

Good luck and have fun

 

No bike shop will do this method for you..so have fun.

 

Wah_lau....still have to type so much!

 

Wah.... so many procedures ar...... I think i need to print this out so i won't miss any steps leh....

 

But if can last for a year or so... i dun mind the trouble....

 

Thanks for the info... (will do it either this or next weekend)

 

Looking forward to see the good result...

[Hondaman]

haha ya lor .. hondaman my bike need u to get another mc .. hehe

 

Hahahaha, If I MC i dunno wat to do. That why my sister love me when I MC coz I will do alot of house chores.

[DeadmanZ]

Hi guys, juz realised the headlight 'transparent cover' of my ver S have turned yellowish instead of clear white... is there any products that i can use to clean away the yellowish tint? Thanks in advance!!!

[Ah Pek]

Hi guys, juz realised the headlight 'transparent cover' of my ver S have turned yellowish instead of clear white... is there any products that i can use to clean away the yellowish tint? Thanks in advance!!!

 

Try the new 3m ($14.50) or Megauires ($1.00) plastic polish from Autobacs...never try b4 but should work lah.

[deviLLian]

hey non-vtec bros a.k.a. in malay = abang-abang.. i find diz thread most informative amongst d rest of s4 threads..

[smiley73]

Actually........ if it is a small hole only... u can try those places that deals with scrap metals lor...

 

Last time when i riding SP... even ask a thai worker from the scrap metal yard to weld my exhaust before... He didn't ask money from me so i went to buy him kopi...

 

The weld is not very nice... but since yours is on the below part, i think should be okay right...

 

best to change 2nd good condition tank...

[DeadmanZ]

Try the new 3m ($14.50) or Megauires ($1.00) plastic polish from Autobacs...never try b4 but should work lah.

 

thanks ah pek

[Dkoh]

Finally... today i get my Ver S...

 

Very surprise the workshop changed new chain and socket, and the front and rear tyre for me... usually they only replace second hand stuff for ppl right???

 

Test ride the bike and performance is great... but seems like there are power cut for the bike, not very sure of it....

[Ah Pek]

best to change 2nd good condition tank...

 

That was what I would have done oso lor..but sometime its all luck oso lah. Buy 2nd second inspect incpect okay...but after three months..suddenly bigger Lobang appeared oso Lagi_Cheklak!!!

[Ah Pek]

thanks ah pek

 

Hen...welcome...but sorry about a typo error that I just realized..the plastic polish for Meguarie one is $16.00...not $1.00..my thousand apologies.

[Ah Pek]

Finally... today i get my Ver S...

 

Very surprise the workshop changed new chain and socket, and the front and rear tyre for me... usually they only replace second hand stuff for ppl right???

 

Test ride the bike and performance is great... but seems like there are power cut for the bike, not very sure of it....

 

Congrats on your new mechanical wife..sound like you a new happy owner and gotten a good buy. Normally all thoese new stuff are likely included in hidden cost of your purchased lah...likely. Have you verified that the sporket are originals and what type of chain is installed. Not sure wheather this was discussed during your negotiation prior to confirmation of sales.

 

At any rate..ride safe and make sure you know them tiyres behaviour, have the pressure right for your weight and remember to oil your chain and adjust them when necessary. All the best on the road.

[Ah Pek]

hey non-vtec bros a.k.a. in malay = abang-abang.. i find diz thread most informative amongst d rest of s4 threads..

 

Oh yah...that reminded of having another thread started by I-Ride_A_Bike call "TechGhee Tech and Talk". Likely I'll put a lot of useful fault finding procedures..basically focus for those that just gotten their 2a and own a S4 or for the matter..any bike. It would be very much a guide sort of approach to know what is likely wrong with your ride before you become a Sontong and kenna chop_chop with Golden Parang in a Mototiam.

 

I'm doing this because I have been getting quite a lot of simple fault questions thru PM from ppl I don't even know ..shy shy I think or ever posted in the forum. after time I answered..I notice that it was never shared openly here or just about in any other thread where ppl asked the same think...and I do find it rather 'unproductive'. I tot that it would be best that it can be somewhere as a 'reference' instead of only one person knowing as he/she asked that question. It would save me lots of typing too and save me the trouble of answering the same questions all over again from some others. And oso save many ppl the trouble of trying to make it to Tech Ghee Sq when we have "anyhow Kop_pee" session...LOL!

 

Btw..its not a "FAQ" thingy too..something you read..understand and digest where the answer are all there. It would make you more knowledgeable on a day to day basis and help others "fault find" and even troubleshoot the root of probabilty caused. It won't help you in "how much is this and where to get it" thingy as this has been taken care off by other threads..should think so.

 

Okay...ppl here...if you have read what I just said...look out for TeckGhee Tech Talk thread actually drowning or ing olehdee..LOL!

[edition]

haha ahpek u can write a book liao .. title "Dummy on Super four" i tink the market nt bad leh .. already got so many s4 rider and always hav new s4 rider .. haha u sell the book $4 is nt bad .. 4 dollar save their wallet from kana chop by other shop den u can alliance wif Ah Tee the boss like u will add his shop in ur book shop intro so those show the book to Ah tee will hav discount .. haha

[Ah Pek]

haha ahpek u can write a book liao .. title "Dummy on Super four" i tink the market nt bad leh .. already got so many s4 rider and always hav new s4 rider .. haha u sell the book $4 is nt bad .. 4 dollar save their wallet from kana chop by other shop den u can alliance wif Ah Tee the boss like u will add his shop in ur book shop intro so those show the book to Ah tee will hav discount .. haha

 

Wah..you are in the making of a very enterprising person!...LOL!

 

Cannot lah..like dat, very soon all mototiam closed down and when they see the author name behind the plublication...I kenna back lane gang chop_chop to minced pork mannn!

 

Consider it SBF community services or charity work lor. May be one day the site kenna chop chop, not me...LOL!

[Dkoh]

Congrats on your new mechanical wife..sound like you a new happy owner and gotten a good buy. Normally all thoese new stuff are likely included in hidden cost of your purchased lah...likely. Have you verified that the sporket are originals and what type of chain is installed. Not sure wheather this was discussed during your negotiation prior to confirmation of sales.

 

At any rate..ride safe and make sure you know them tiyres behaviour, have the pressure right for your weight and remember to oil your chain and adjust them when necessary. All the best on the road.

 

Errmmm... I remember i told the motodiam to check on the important things like brake, chain, electrical.. etc... but nv tot that they will replace new items for me... so actually i quite surprise too... Guess i am a happy rider now, love the bike.... only the rusty area makes me feel abit sad... Will touch on them tomorrow...

 

The socket is black in colour and the chain looks abit chrome coloured... think should be some cheaper brands or else where got so good... LOL!!!