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Posted

lol ah pek ".better be smart in your approach..don't smile and show a happy face" if he show unhappy face they tink tis fellow tryin to be funny den they do more dmg to it .. lol den krafadaw pls pm me n tell me lol

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Posted
I suspect something's wrong with my steering cone.

 

When I move off slowly (half-clutch), can feel the tyre swinging left and right. But very slight movements. At higher speeds, cannot feel.

 

I ruled out wheel bearings as I replaced them in november 2007. By right wheel bearings should last abt 1 year right?

 

Any idea what else could be causing the front wheel 'wobble'?

 

Balancing? Fork problems?

 

Front rim got dent in. Happens when you drop into a pot-hole. Happen to me once in JB. had to change rim.

Please contact me @ 9628 7970 for direct fast deal.

:cheers: :cheers:

Posted

About 22 - 25km/l bro.. Depending on riding style and bike condition.

 

SOme have gotten as low as 18km/l.

 

The repair done by the famous Planet Ah Chong leh.. He's a nice person and I don't wanna take advantage lar. Maybe go down when I'm free and let him hear when the engine is HOT. If not life-threatening, haha.. Wait for $$$ to drop from the sky lor. This july got $200 dropping into my bank acct. Heh.

For the certainty of death and the knowledge of life's fragility, makes it worth living.

Posted

den u can jus tok to ah chong mah .. last time i do change my chain he gif me warranty .. he say this month u can wack till ur chain spoil .. if spoil he change a new pair for me .. when service at his workshop keep tokin cok with him he will gif u some benefit wan which u will nt noe ..

Posted

Haha.. That warranty thing is widespread I think. He told me engine oil come out from hole again, come back and he make sui sui for free. If coolant come out, please don't come back. Haha. Block leakage is a major job I guess.

For the certainty of death and the knowledge of life's fragility, makes it worth living.

Posted
Haha.. That warranty thing is widespread I think. He told me engine oil come out from hole again, come back and he make sui sui for free. If coolant come out, please don't come back. Haha. Block leakage is a major job I guess.

 

haha ya he is a nice n funny guy .. so i believe u tell him ur problem he will solve it for u ..

Posted

Need some help guys, today when i was riding on the expressway. suddenly i felt some hot liquid (alittle bit only) split onto my left leg... slow down and checked and it was the coolant...

when i reached my workplace i try searching for the leakage by the coolant markings. Can only see them from the spark plug area. I pull out the plug cable and can see vapour on the cable (also abit only) but the coolant marks seem more then that leh, and the vapour colour on the cable is different from the coolant.

I tried starting the engine and left its running but no leakage. Water temp warning light didn't on also. I tot its was nothing, so just went on to work.

But when i was going home, while on 3rd gear again the split come again(this time split more). But when i close the throttle the split stopped and then the split nv come again liao... check the marks again at the plug area and some at the side of the engine.

 

Anyone knows wats happening.. the split like siao siao one happy happy come not happy dun come. Driving me crazy.

Posted
Need some help guys, today when i was riding on the expressway. suddenly i felt some hot liquid (alittle bit only) split onto my left leg... slow down and checked and it was the coolant...

when i reached my workplace i try searching for the leakage by the coolant markings. Can only see them from the spark plug area. I pull out the plug cable and can see vapour on the cable (also abit only) but the coolant marks seem more then that leh, and the vapour colour on the cable is different from the coolant.

I tried starting the engine and left its running but no leakage. Water temp warning light didn't on also. I tot its was nothing, so just went on to work.

But when i was going home, while on 3rd gear again the split come again(this time split more). But when i close the throttle the split stopped and then the split nv come again liao... check the marks again at the plug area and some at the side of the engine.

 

Anyone knows wats happening.. the split like siao siao one happy happy come not happy dun come. Driving me crazy.

 

Have to change your radiator pressure cap liao. The rubber seal of the cap has worn out. Please do this when the engine is cold otherwise the boiling pressure remain in the radiator may 'eplode' out and scale you.

 

The cap I just got recently cost me $28 but I believe you can get it cheaper.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Have to change your radiator pressure cap liao. The rubber seal of the cap has worn out. Please do this when the engine is cold otherwise the boiling pressure remain in the radiator may 'eplode' out and scale you.

 

The cap I just got recently cost me $28 but I believe you can get it cheaper.

 

Oh okok thanks... will go check the cap tomorrow, but the split is on the left side right side no split... and the marks only on the left side also...

Posted

Ok ppl..I occassionaly get PM from ppl asking me questions about their bikes. I have decided to post them here for the benefits of all may have the same questions. Though I'm not a mechanic and you don't have to be one to know the trick of the trade either..I share what I can to narrow down the problem/problems to the best of my knowledge from both experience from others & myself and oso lots of reading from other forums and books.

 

Here is one from today..

 

==========================================================

 

1)

ok my engine produce a little bit of noise. when clutch in the noise stop. is that normal for a 6 year old bike? suspect something related to clutch housing?

 

Ans:

If the nosie is persistence and get louder or does not go away..it could likely be :

a) Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive

b) Loose or damaged clutch pressure plate and/or bolts

 

======================================

 

2)how do i know if my clutch plate is wear out and need to change?

 

 

Ans:

You can tell by the clutch cable adjustment end on your right side..just above the gear box. The adjustment would reach the end of the thread. There is a post and photo showing of it in the non-vtec threah (but its the same with Vtec) when someone (Malay giy) asked the same. Check all post by me and should find it..the most a month ago only.

 

======================================

 

3)

my FC is terrible. i usually change gear at 4rpm. seldom open vtec. seldom harsh accerelating. travel 100km/hr on expressway. that all. however my one tank can only travel up to 260click. servicing has been done 2 weeks ago ( service carb plus tunning, change eo, change sparkplug, change oild filter)..

 

Ans:

This is quite ok with old bikes lah. Next time use mineral oil for eo and get as high vicosity as you can like 20w/50w. if you want to use synthetic..get STP or Coral vicosity addition to make the oil slightly thicker but not too thick as suynthetic oil or too watery..even their 5/30w or 10/40w.

Other option which I recommend is to use X-1R..its a metal treatment and best for old bike like ours. The other fc improvement is to add "green oil"..a vegetable plant base oil mixed in your fuel..very smooth ride and fuel saving (read the past thread in non-vtec).

The other strong recomendation is to have grounding done for your bike.very much responsive and increase in mileage. One other factor not to overlook is your riding style. Different rider varies but the thing is learn to roll by clutching in when their is opportunity...don't everytime use engine braking.

Last but not last..occassionally rev your engine to red zone and hold for a sec or two to clear exhaust. As yours is a Vtec...I suggest you strongly get over the 6.5 rpm mark and use the vtec otherwise..your set of 8 valves each is gonna have lobesided performance effects.

**Don't waste money on voltage stabilizer unless you want it or believe in it ..do grounding first if you have not. Do join us if we have casual gathering at Teck Ghee Square Ko-pee talk in AMK Ave 10...most comers are just like yourself.

 

Hope the above helps.

========================================================

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Oh okok thanks... will go check the cap tomorrow, but the split is on the left side right side no split... and the marks only on the left side also...

 

Ok...since mow that you mentioned this..it's hard to say as you are on the move. Thos on the right may just fly off and coolant going to the left are likely trapped around when it fly left.

 

At any rate..I would not rule out the possibility of the rubber hoses locking circlips coming loose. Check all the circlips by retightening them...as well check if the hoses joint end or torn or cracked oso.

 

Good luck..let us know here..please.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Ok...since mow that you mentioned this..it's hard to say as you are on the move. Thos on the right may just fly off and coolant going to the left are likely trapped around when it fly left.

 

At any rate..I would not rule out the possibility of the rubber hoses locking circlips coming loose. Check all the circlips by retightening them...as well check if the hoses joint end or torn or cracked oso.

 

Good luck..let us know here..please.

 

Sure sure... will let u know wats wrong with it. I also suspect the radiator hose below the water temp sensor loose or cracked. Thanks!

 

Will check it out tomolo...:angel:

Posted

dunno oso when the battery replaced. only 3-4 months since i bought. must go check soon. thanks btw.

 

When was your last battery replace? Likely battery running dead. If its quite new...better have your rectifier charing rate output check...could be getting defective (new one cost about $85 to $95 - Japan made..China/Thailand about $65..check with LAB first..his original likely cheaper).
Posted
Ok ppl..I occassionaly get PM from ppl asking me questions about their bikes. I have decided to post them here for the benefits of all may have the same questions. Though I'm not a mechanic and you don't have to be one to know the trick of the trade either..I share what I can to narrow down the problem/problems to the best of my knowledge from both experience from others & myself and oso lots of reading from other forums and books.

 

Here is one from today..

 

==========================================================

 

2)how do i know if my clutch plate is wear out and need to change?

 

 

Ans:

You can tell by the clutch cable adjustment end on your right side..just above the gear box. The adjustment would reach the end of the thread. There is a post and photo showing of it in the non-vtec threah (but its the same with Vtec) when someone (Malay giy) asked the same. Check all post by me and should find it..the most a month ago only.

 

======================================

 

this should be the pic, i guess:

 

http://www.wubefrub.net/graphics/CLUTCH001.jpg

Posted
this should be the pic, i guess:

 

http://www.wubefrub.net/graphics/CLUTCH001.jpg

 

Thank you mannn!...yes, this is the clutch major adjustment point when the fine adjustment at the clutch lever side runs up of adjustment.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Another PM question and answer:

 

==========================================================

Question:

 

u mention about grouding. what is it actually??? cause my bike a FV plate spec2 getting 260km per tank. while my fren ridding spec1 and spec3 getting 320km per tank. so i feel that my bike is high in FC yet after servicing of carb, it provide not much help. petrol cost are rising. abit sad to see my bike performance rate like that.....

 

Ans:

 

I have already mentioned how you can get a little better for your fc in my last post..anyway..

The subject about fc is a very subjective one and at all "NOT" to compare with another bike of the same model or for the matter, the "cc" of other make.

The way you ride is different from your friends..the route you take to work or to school is oso different, every traffics you start and stop and the traffic flow in every other days are always different..your bike is different..your chain, sproket, tyres conditions, tyre pressure, your weight, the different extra load you carry at random...etc...the list goes on..how to compare? Read all my post and you find the answer somewhere. This thing about Fc is very silly..some even claim they clocked 420km to 450km till reserve..this is all full of **** to me. I'm not saying it cannot be achieved..you can but it's not the way you ride your bike on Singapore road. Just know that doing between 17km/ltr to 21km/ltr for an old bike..you are just doing fine.

If the three of you eat the same thing, **** the same volume, same weight same clothing in size etc..everything that equates to "1"..then you can compare..this in meaning "comparing apple to apple".

If you want a 23km/ltr or slightly better..have your valve train assembly, camchaim and piston ring changed..in other words..top and mid end overhauled. Better still have your corn rod bearings, cruncher pins and cam lopes changed..in short..your bike is equvalent to 1 years old hard riding condition..by then oso have better fc..hopefully.

As for grounding..I does my own. There is a thread all about grounding..please check the "sticky" somewhere or search all my post..I have already posted my version of explaination on this subject and to many who have privately aske dthe same thing over. Anyway...just in brief for you..it basically brings all the floating earth point from their different -ve potential to one single -ve value and this value is that of your battery..result?..better spark performance, brighter lights, better cranking power and last but not least..negligiable overnite battery leakage, better relaibility for your rectifier and battery.

========================================================

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Sure sure... will let u know wats wrong with it. I also suspect the radiator hose below the water temp sensor loose or cracked. Thanks!

 

Will check it out tomolo...:angel:

 

Hi Dkoh, if the radiator circlip is loose, one of the best signs is steam coming out from the front of your bike. I loosened it once to accommodate my header replacement and didn't fix it properly. Everytime I started my bike, steam would come out without fail due to the coolant evaporating.

 

If hose is cracked, surely the coolant won't come out on and off, but rather in a constant flow. Maybe you could just let your bike run stationary until it is very hot (30mins?), then once the pressure builds up, maybe you could pinpont exactly where the coolant is coming out from?

For the certainty of death and the knowledge of life's fragility, makes it worth living.

Posted
If hose is cracked, surely the coolant won't come out on and off, but rather in a constant flow.

 

Not necessarily..once the coolant gets hot and pressure builds up..it oozes out and depending on the crack size and pressure and temperature..it can jet out on and off.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Thanks for all help and feedback.. thank ah pek for replying my pm. and those CB400 expects on replying my post.

 

don't mind i repeat what happened. and seek ur help again.

 

I jus took over this bike less then a month. milleage was poor as compare to other super4. they get 330km before reserve while i hit only 250km like that... their is spec1 and spec3.. So seek their advise went to motordiam to service. Wash carb, plus tunning, change eo, oil filter, sparkplug. ( jus took over, feel better to change also ) result still same. went back again today. Think not much help. I asked my mechanic about this problem i have, when ever i move off ( be it from traffic light or parking ), i often feel no power and abit jerky, need to mantain half clutch to gain the power. He then tried my bike, and told me that my clutch plate wear off alrd. quoted $150 +/- there to change the whole set. if metal plate over burn, then will be $200+/-... He told me this is one of the reason to my poor milleage.

 

advise? how do i know if my clutch is really wear out? lack of power when moving off? feel jerky? is the price quoted ok? comments???

Posted
i often feel no power and abit jerky, need to mantain half clutch to gain the power. He then tried my bike, and told me that my clutch plate wear off alrd. quoted $150 +/- there to change the whole set. if metal plate over burn, then will be $200+/-... He told me this is one of the reason to my poor milleage.

 

advise? how do i know if my clutch is really wear out? lack of power when moving off? feel jerky? is the price quoted ok? comments???

 

If he has tested your bike and from the symptom he described, yes..its definitely the clutch plate. I know each clutch plate cost $11.00 and thre are 6 pieces..your price may include eo and labour. Snce you just changed eo...may be you can asked the mech to save it for resue and see if he gives you a better pricing.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
If he has tested your bike and from the symptom he described, yes..its definitely the clutch plate. I know each clutch plate cost $11.00 and thre are 6 pieces..your price may include eo and labour. Snce you just changed eo...may be you can asked the mech to save it for resue and see if he gives you a better pricing.

 

erm. i am afraid the mech tok me. he told me change clutch plate does not need to change EO.?? possible? is there other possiblity to why my bike move off need open more and mantain half clutch, other then clutch plate problem? got ppl tell me might be air filter or the fuel flow rate and ratio. how do we see if there is clutch slippage? i nv experience clutch slip before.

Posted
erm. i am afraid the mech tok me. he told me change clutch plate does not need to change EO.?? possible? is there other possiblity to why my bike move off need open more and mantain half clutch, other then clutch plate problem? got ppl tell me might be air filter or the fuel flow rate and ratio. how do we see if there is clutch slippage? i nv experience clutch slip before.

 

Yeah.. It's possible. They just have to tilt the bike at a more steeper angle than normal so the EO collects to the side when they change the clutch plates.

 

If moving off, you need to rev higher than normal (by hearing and feel) in order to move off, then you should probably change your clutch plates. Why not you change the plates first, then see whether it has any positive effect on your ride?

For the certainty of death and the knowledge of life's fragility, makes it worth living.

Posted
mine eo leak.. *gulps*..

help help.. haha

 

From where??? Haha. Don't like me.. EO come out from the small hole, thot gasket blown. Skarli is the mech never tighten my spark plugs properly, causing the EO to flow out. :angry:

For the certainty of death and the knowledge of life's fragility, makes it worth living.

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