[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[legionaire]

ah pek, mi pb1 fork oil coming out from the seal already... i went to mi mech he said that he can change for me but it will leak out again.. becoz mi fork the shaft already weared off abit.. u noe anywhere i can get a fork? 2nd hand i saw was abt 280 dollars... any lobangs?

[Ah Pek]

ah pek, mi pb1 fork oil coming out from the seal already... i went to mi mech he said that he can change for me but it will leak out again.. becoz mi fork the shaft already weared off abit.. u noe anywhere i can get a fork? 2nd hand i saw was abt 280 dollars... any lobangs?

 

It's true what the mech say when it is worn or even a small "nick"(depression dot caused by slip of a screwdriver poking the tube jsut above the oil seal during your last change).

 

You do not need to buy a whole "fork"..its expensive. The whole assembly of a fork consistes of as many as 17 components including oil seal set.

 

The upper fork tube part you taking about is call the "fork tube"..below one is call the "slider". I changed mine before and you can get it at LAB much cheaper than anywhere else. Tell LAB you want this to be an original one (don't think have chiong oso). It cost me about $160.00 for a piece. Oso take note that both oil seal, fork oil and internal cleaning are all in the works as a process. Make sure you take back the old tube...very useful. If you don't want take it for me

 

Anyway..if you wnat to change whole fork as a pair...might as well get the RVF inverter forks..fits non-vtec version as I was told.

[smiley73]

ah pek, mi pb1 fork oil coming out from the seal already... i went to mi mech he said that he can change for me but it will leak out again.. becoz mi fork the shaft already weared off abit.. u noe anywhere i can get a fork? 2nd hand i saw was abt 280 dollars... any lobangs?

 

if you hunting for the fork becareful .... not all fork can fit PB1 cos of the brake caplier bolt spacing.

[Dkoh]

How come?...why so serious?..or doin an overhaul?

 

hard to say depending on their schedule..but two weeks is too long. Either they send the parts to someone else and earn middle $$$s or they intend to charge more. The very most four days. Looks like they are waving golden parang on you big time this time. Got asked for how much estimate b4 you do or not?

 

This is the best time to take the chrome head top back home and use paint remover to take off the laquer ...blink blink like mine..LOL!

 

better ask how much first before suddenly at the end the price came out like one 2nd hand ver S again. more problem.

 

Usually takes 4 to 6 days.

 

 

My engine still under warrantly... dun need to pay...

 

Yesterday receive call from the workshop the senior mech say saturday got one more bike bring in for overhaul. Thats why mine had to wait, unless i wanna take the risk to let another mechanic to do but had no experience on doing big bike b4. Or else had to wait for him to finish the overhaul first then can start mine... so minimum is 2weeks.

[summerrain]

it rained yesterday and my neutral light and fuel gauge are working again!

 

probably needs some water to work. haha

 

btw, I didn't do anything to fuse or connectors...

[fi_east]

Went to moto shop this morning, my bike felt as tough it was chocking when it reaches rpm 6... Change coolant, spark plug, air filter, service carb still feel the same... Finally, one shop seems as tough he manage to track where the prob, he say it have something to do with the cdi, the power cut place there he qoute me $120 for him to rectify the problem, insteadof changing the whole cdi... so guys, have any of u experience such a problem b4?

[syarif]

It's true what the mech say when it is worn or even a small "nick"(depression dot caused by slip of a screwdriver poking the tube jsut above the oil seal during your last change).

 

You do not need to buy a whole "fork"..its expensive. The whole assembly of a fork consistes of as many as 17 components including oil seal set.

 

The upper fork tube part you taking about is call the "fork tube"..below one is call the "slider". I changed mine before and you can get it at LAB much cheaper than anywhere else. Tell LAB you want this to be an original one (don't think have chiong oso). It cost me about $160.00 for a piece. Oso take note that both oil seal, fork oil and internal cleaning are all in the works as a process. Make sure you take back the old tube...very useful. If you don't want take it for me

 

Anyway..if you wnat to change whole fork as a pair...might as well get the RVF inverter forks..fits non-vtec version as I was told.

 

god! inverted forks?! ohh drooollsss.

[syarif]

This is subjective lah...no fixed timing one..example: 10 yrs don't change oso can when you ride your bike only once a month ..got it?

 

So..if its to soft for your comfort and got $$$s..change lah..price range from different shops from $90 - $150 (max), includes new pair of oil seal, servicing and oil replacement.

 

If your seal is ok and your fork got a drain nut at the bottom of the fork..jsut release the oil and pumped the old oil out by decompressing your forks. Top up with PJI 10W fork oil..volume should be around 420cc per fork. save lots of $s eh!

 

i see. my fork oil seal going got a bit of leak alr. tried speeding and then e-braking, saw some oil marks near the top of the tube. see. this things only happen when pay day is coming soon.

 

oh and no gst offset for me. underage. anyone can donate?

[smiley73]

i see. my fork oil seal going got a bit of leak alr. tried speeding and then e-braking, saw some oil marks near the top of the tube. see. this things only happen when pay day is coming soon.

 

oh and no gst offset for me. underage. anyone can donate?

 

Donate my left over Fork Oil

[Ah Pek]

Donate my left over Fork Oil

 

....and I oso donate my 3.2 litres of use 20/50 eo...should wear until may 5W by now..good for fork oil replacement...just boil it and use coffee filter to extra the clean oil..

[gwzc_mk2]

ah pek, u know wads the cause of high fuel consumption? my ver S running ard 17-19km/l and drops to 11km/l at high speeds. checked with my mech but he cant seem to find out wads wrong with it

[stRobe]

it rained yesterday and my neutral light and fuel gauge are working again!

 

probably needs some water to work. haha

 

 

that's interesting.. my pilot lights tend to go haywire when i ride in heavy rain. They need some water not to work.

 

....and I oso donate my 3.2 litres of use 20/50 eo...should wear until may 5W by now..good for fork oil replacement...just boil it and use coffee filter to extra the clean oil..

 

Wah really can reuse old e.o as fork oil?!!

 

ah pek, u know wads the cause of high fuel consumption? my ver S running ard 17-19km/l and drops to 11km/l at high speeds. checked with my mech but he cant seem to find out wads wrong with it

 

erm.. how high is 'high speed'?

[stRobe]

ah pek, you were right about the tyre thing.

 

My front tyre is 2005 one. This morning, i noticed 2-3 hairline cracks along the sidewall when the bike was parked on the side stand. It doesnt run the entire circumference of the side wall, thats why i didnt notice it before.

 

 

Bloody hell, I thought i had a good deal when i bought the bike cos the tyre is 'new' and BT090. Actually they gave me old stock. Front was mid-2005, rear was early 2006.

 

So I changed to a new pair of BT039. Rear tyre had 2 holes already anyway and the front one gone case.

 

I just hope the BT039 isnt too slippery when wet.

[Ah Pek]

ah pek, you were right about the tyre thing.

 

My front tyre is 2005 one. This morning, i noticed 2-3 hairline cracks along the sidewall when the bike was parked on the side stand. It doesnt run the entire circumference of the side wall, thats why i didnt notice it before.

 

 

Bloody hell, I thought i had a good deal when i bought the bike cos the tyre is 'new' and BT090. Actually they gave me old stock. Front was mid-2005, rear was early 2006.

 

So I changed to a new pair of BT039. Rear tyre had 2 holes already anyway and the front one gone case.

 

I just hope the BT039 isnt too slippery when wet.

 

Well that's great having found your problem to your ride. Not sure if I have mentioned Dunlope "Arrowmax" to you..but till date, I still find its the best for our model..from low corner grip and feel to confidence anticipation behaviour in the wet and last but on least..very lasting and reasonably priced - IMHO.

[Ah Pek]

ah pek, u know wads the cause of high fuel consumption? my ver S running ard 17-19km/l and drops to 11km/l at high speeds. checked with my mech but he cant seem to find out wads wrong with it

 

Well...its There is a big difference in fc when it comes to style of riding..like comparing cruising and racing a bike. The engine get very very hot when you are riding at high speed (referring to at least 120 km/hr onwards and average at 140 to 160) and before vaporised fuel gets combusted in the chamber, some of it are already being dried up. accumulate the amount in distance traveled..that's a lot 'wasted'. The rate of burning is oso faster that's why your engine do run somewhat much smoother but this does not meant good combustion either..take it as a compromised. However, say your bike is well tuned, cooling system is working great and given that particular distance you travel at high speed continously and has great head wind giving you good air cooling at the same time..high fc would be slightly better but consided negligibly accepted.

 

There are many factors that contribute to this..like Carburettor (worn carb's jet needle, weak carb's diaphragm..etc), the coupling rubber between the carbs and engine inlet may have leak, tyre pressure, chain tension, load on bike..etc.

 

In short..there is no answer as to what in a single area that you can fault for high fc..but to accept that the engine is hot and burn out fuel at faster rate. In short...quite normal and its inevitable.

 

Consumption to me at btwen 17 to 19 km/ltr is very common and acceptable to me. Not sure why so many ppl 'classified' it high..especially w are talking about old used bike. At any rate, I have yet to read, look or see anywhere, a speciafication that says you should be getting at least 20 to 25 km/ltr or 350-380km before reserve for a brand new S4 in any manual. If there is one..I certainly would love to hear about it.

 

So in summary..your mechanic is right about finding nothing and so so I Just like so many computer I repaired on house call..the same question is always asked after a repair job well done.."what'as wrong with it sir?"..my answer most of the time.."Oh..its the thing between the keyboard and the chair" ...go figure!

[summerrain]

hi everyone, can someone please help with some basic questions?

 

I tried reading about 30 pages of the old thread... can't find the answer...

 

1. where to check the coolant? how to get to it?

2. what is the basic set of tools for maintenance by myself?

 

Thanks!

[Ah Pek]

1. where to check the coolant? how to get to it?

2. what is the basic set of tools for maintenance by myself?

 

 

1. Right side of your bike cover panel. Remove two allen key nut..once cover somes off..be able to see the coolant reserve white plastic container. LCoolant level should be at mark level 2.

 

2. Get a set of open "C" spanner end or ring wrench size: 8,10,12,14,17,19,21,24,27..one long nose plier cutter type, one medium philip head and flat screw driver, large plier. This is just my recommendation for the very basic...of course there are more you can have depend on how far you wanna go.

 

Gte good quality tools from Japan, Germany or USA made..last you a life time.

[stRobe]

*post removed

[Ah Pek]

*post removed

 

???..what happened?

[tim17]

"Oh..its the thing between the keyboard and the chair" ...go figure!

 

User problem... hahahaha ah-pek.. you always do house call... then got special house call??

[summerrain]

1. ....

 

Gte good quality tools from Japan, Germany or USA made..last you a life time.

 

thanks again ah pek, will get my gear soon.. want to make sure bike in good condition for the road!

[gwzc_mk2]

Well...its There is a big difference in fc when it comes to style of riding..like comparing cruising and racing a bike. The engine get very very hot when you are riding at high speed (referring to at least 120 km/hr onwards and average at 140 to 160) and before vaporised fuel gets combusted in the chamber, some of it are already being dried up. accumulate the amount in distance traveled..that's a lot 'wasted'. The rate of burning is oso faster that's why your engine do run somewhat much smoother but this does not meant good combustion either..take it as a compromised. However, say your bike is well tuned, cooling system is working great and given that particular distance you travel at high speed continously and has great head wind giving you good air cooling at the same time..high fc would be slightly better but consided negligibly accepted.

 

There are many factors that contribute to this..like Carburettor (worn carb's jet needle, weak carb's diaphragm..etc), the coupling rubber between the carbs and engine inlet may have leak, tyre pressure, chain tension, load on bike..etc.

 

In short..there is no answer as to what in a single area that you can fault for high fc..but to accept that the engine is hot and burn out fuel at faster rate. In short...quite normal and its inevitable.

 

Consumption to me at btwen 17 to 19 km/ltr is very common and acceptable to me. Not sure why so many ppl 'classified' it high..especially w are talking about old used bike. At any rate, I have yet to read, look or see anywhere, a speciafication that says you should be getting at least 20 to 25 km/ltr or 350-380km before reserve for a brand new S4 in any manual. If there is one..I certainly would love to hear about it.

 

So in summary..your mechanic is right about finding nothing and so so I Just like so many computer I repaired on house call..the same question is always asked after a repair job well done.."what'as wrong with it sir?"..my answer most of the time.."Oh..its the thing between the keyboard and the chair" ...go figure!

cos last weekend went for the S4MG. the guys hav at least half tank left while i am abt to go into reserve. and all pumped full tank before moving off. so its rather disturbing

[gwzc_mk2]

double post

[Ah Pek]

"Oh..its the thing between the keyboard and the chair" ...go figure!

 

User problem... hahahaha ah-pek.. you always do house call... then got special house call??

 

LOL!..yah lor..like normal house doctor do houe call lor..but special house call..you need a specialist..$s oso become special leh

[xiaowen]

hi people, when you guys say ur full tank before reserve can hit an average or 300plus km.. jus a question, which rpm do you guys usually change gear at???