[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[deviLLian]

A friend of mine told me PB1 stock pipe can get very hot upon riding the bike. Is this true?

 

like how hot bro? i wonder which pipe wont get hot when riding...

[theFamilyguy]

like how hot bro? i wonder which pipe wont get hot when riding...

 

Hah u got a point. but he mentioned that this pb1 can get exceptionally hot ah compared to vS ones.

[Marcheline]

Heh bro..you not using X-1R anymore huh? Are you in NS now?..haven't seen you for a long time mannn!..the last was you got "blood shot" eyes at almost 4am in the morning....LOL!

Ah Pek! I'm turning 24 this year leh! So late then go NS arh? Hee. Currently doing full-time studies.. Anyway my Ver S seconded to my father few months back loh.. So maintenance all is under him. I'll be getting the NASA elixir from you once I've overhauled the R1 that I bought.. Haha blood shot.

Hah u got a point. but he mentioned that this pb1 can get exceptionally hot ah compared to vS ones.

Anything that can burn skin is exceptionally hot. So all metal pipes fall under that category I guess. Unless your definition of exceptionally hot, melts metal. Then Ah Pek's bike should be missing his shiny bling2 trumpet.

[Darkness19]

anyone knows how much it cost to change the steering cone of a version s?

 

unique motor replacement of both steering cone bearings $80

[pufferfis]

The odometer dial stalk is actually screwed by a very small screw..much larger than glass frame screw but still smalla nd have to use a long stem screw driver to take it out. Its can be rusty and jam easily. If the mech do not know or somewhat forcefully take it out..its a F*it situation. Using siper glue helps putting it back but taking it off next time you need to disassemble the meter..its another story

 

ah pek..need ur advice...a few mths ago i had a low side accident....but e bike ok..jus the chrome casings cracked n the internal white meter part cracks here n there n my bike still rideable and no decrease in performance.....a few days ago my meter light plus my fuel gauge n the 3 little bulbs inside the meter went dead n my bike got sluggish in that it cant go past 5 or 6k rpm and it can only go like max 80km to 90km/hr...the sound when i riding like the valves dont want to open light

 

on the other hand..my headlights,signal lights are still functioning and i checked the fuses and they are ok and i can easily start the bike even though at first its like short of fuel like that...a bikeshop i went to said my rpm meter or some wire inside got wire shorted out and quoted me around 35 bucks to rectify it. i dismantle the meter except for the rpm n odometer and i cant see any damage except for e cracked white internal housing but i guess im not that good at recognizing or isolating the affected part. hope u can advice any solutions to narrow down the problem..thanks man

[MazzyMan]

Calling for AH PEK...thanks for the help yesterday.

 

Will keep you posted on the batt thingy.

[MazzyMan]

Sorry guys not sure if I am allowed to ask these questions here but here goes:

 

1. Understand the stock rear spocket is 42 teeth, anyone changed to a smaller rear spocket? I kinda want slightly more relaxed rpm at top gear. Would love to see about 4500 - 5000rpm at 100km/h.

 

2. Does anyone sell progessive or aftermarket fork springs for our Ver S?

 

Thanks in advance guys!

[soma]

Sorry, a stupid question....just got myself a S4 Version S, the choke lever on the left handle bar, pull towards myself or push away from myself is open choke? Thanks for the advice

[Ah Pek]

Sorry, a stupid question....just got myself a S4 Version S, the choke lever on the left handle bar, pull towards myself or push away from myself is open choke? Thanks for the advice

 

Look at the right side of your upper carbs where the choke linkage is, pull the level towards you..you see the movement.

[Ah Pek]

ah pek..need ur advice...a few mths ago i had a low side accident....but e bike ok..jus the chrome casings cracked n the internal white meter part cracks here n there n my bike still rideable and no decrease in performance.....a few days ago my meter light plus my fuel gauge n the 3 little bulbs inside the meter went dead n my bike got sluggish in that it cant go past 5 or 6k rpm and it can only go like max 80km to 90km/hr...the sound when i riding like the valves dont want to open light

 

on the other hand..my headlights,signal lights are still functioning and i checked the fuses and they are ok and i can easily start the bike even though at first its like short of fuel like that...a bikeshop i went to said my rpm meter or some wire inside got wire shorted out and quoted me around 35 bucks to rectify it. i dismantle the meter except for the rpm n odometer and i cant see any damage except for e cracked white internal housing but i guess im not that good at recognizing or isolating the affected part. hope u can advice any solutions to narrow down the problem..thanks man

 

There are two connectors..one red (four pins) and the other white that has more. They are connected from your meter assembly to your main hardness brunch. Check their connectivity. Better still if you have a mutilmeter. All the brown black or white wires(not sure) from the main hardness branch side from the white connector should have incoming voltages (for bulbs)..the wires from the red connector are for your rev meter circuit.

 

Just see if they are wet or something as water may have created some temporary shorting.

[Ah Pek]

Sorry guys not sure if I am allowed to ask these questions here but here goes:

 

1. Understand the stock rear spocket is 42 teeth, anyone changed to a smaller rear spocket? I kinda want slightly more relaxed rpm at top gear. Would love to see about 4500 - 5000rpm at 100km/h.

 

2. Does anyone sell progessive or aftermarket fork springs for our Ver S?

 

Thanks in advance guys!

 

No idea but if there isn't any, may be try lower the fron primary gear to 14 teeth.

[Ah Pek]

A friend of mine told me PB1 stock pipe can get very hot upon riding the bike. Is this true?

 

Every pipe oso very hot what?..what your friend talking about?

[Ah Pek]

Hah u got a point. but he mentioned that this pb1 can get exceptionally hot ah compared to vS ones.

 

Looks like the "this" PB1 has got extra thin header or whole exhaust is very thin in material leh..

Edited March 2, 2009 by Ah Pek

[Ah Pek]

Ah Pek! I'm turning 24 this year leh! So late then go NS arh? Hee. Currently doing full-time studies.. Anyway my Ver S seconded to my father few months back loh.. So maintenance all is under him. I'll be getting the NASA elixir from you once I've overhauled the R1 that I bought.. Haha blood shot.

 

Anything that can burn skin is exceptionally hot. So all metal pipes fall under that category I guess. Unless your definition of exceptionally hot, melts metal. Then Ah Pek's bike should be missing his shiny bling2 trumpet.

 

Yah mannn!..still blink like f...LOL!..when you are 28 yrs old..still be blinking I think

 

Wei!...why you right R1 for what huh?..Singapore road like race track or what...?

[pufferfis]

There are two connectors..one red (four pins) and the other white that has more. They are connected from your meter assembly to your main hardness brunch. Check their connectivity. Better still if you have a mutilmeter. All the brown black or white wires(not sure) from the main hardness branch side from the white connector should have incoming voltages (for bulbs)..the wires from the red connector are for your rev meter circuit.

 

Just see if they are wet or something as water may have created some temporary shorting.

 

 

i guess il hav to borrow a mutilimeter from some1 though.....any1 in the house kind enough to lend me for a couple of days?....please.....any kind souls out there........thanks ah pek fer e advice....it does help

 

oh yes ah pek...u got roughly any advice what to look out for when takin out the odometer stalk?....coz im waitin for ah boy to have e white meter stock....he said these few days bo liao stock fer that...n i need to change that n i saw that part is e most vicious to take out...

Edited March 1, 2009 by pufferfis

[Ah Pek]

i guess il hav to borrow a mutilimeter from some1 though.....any1 in the house kind enough to lend me for a couple of days?....please.....any kind souls out there........thanks ah pek fer e advice....it does help

 

oh yes ah pek...u got roughly any advice what to look out for when takin out the odometer stalk?....coz im waitin for ah boy to have e white meter stock....he said these few days bo liao stock fer that...n i need to change that n i saw that part is e most vicious to take out...

 

The other two things that I forgot to mentioned is that you may look at the bulb filament (against the sunlight) and see if they not blown.

 

The other thing is that, those connector wires (one brown/something and the other Green-ground) to their socket (one T10 and two T5) may be corrroded inside. I have a few experience lately while doing lightings that I found the copper strands atr badly blacken by copper oxidation...thus current does not suffice to reach the bulb. The wire itself is a 'load' and that explain why our bulbs are all so dim.

 

Since this wire is a branch from the hardness, not much can be done as the wires had aged and also not sure how long in length that it's affected. The only way if you do not ahve the budget to replace the whole hardness (about $380) is to work out a new connectivity with fuse to tap the power direct from battery.

[WRfreak]

hi ah pek .. thanks for ur wonderful advice and help yesterdae.. bike has been gd and speed is very gd lolx... thx

[Ah Pek]

i guess il hav to borrow a mutilimeter from some1 though.....any1 in the house kind enough to lend me for a couple of days?....please.....any kind souls out there........thanks ah pek fer e advice....it does help

 

oh yes ah pek...u got roughly any advice what to look out for when takin out the odometer stalk?....coz im waitin for ah boy to have e white meter stock....he said these few days bo liao stock fer that...n i need to change that n i saw that part is e most vicious to take out...

 

 

Yes..everytime the bike drop and the outside chrome casing kena..the screw stalk of the white inner housing sure ko_yak one. I fied for Wayne's PB1 once and he a chiong white inner housing from Chgong Aik (I think) for $35 only..original is about $50+.

 

Anyway, if you ever need to take out the black trip meter dial black stalk that is sticking out from your speedo side..there is a very small screw (like glasses one) that is holding it to the actual meter speedo body. 95%!..yes, 95% that this screw is rusty at the philip slot head set. You need a LONG skiny stalk watch maker philip head scre driver to unscrew it.

 

Talking about LAB..iyah..don't listen to him lah..the next time you go back for it..he tell you down there the factory kena burn down.and no more already. Find other means..don't rely on him.

[Ah Pek]

hi ah pek .. thanks for ur wonderful advice and help yesterdae.. bike has been gd and speed is very gd lolx... thx

 

Glad for you that all is well..two more 'hurdles' though..your grounding is not right and yes, EPS...LOL!

[MazzyMan]

No idea but if there isn't any, may be try lower the fron primary gear to 14 teeth.

 

Ok noted. Hunting time.

[soma]

Look at the right side of your upper carbs where the choke linkage is, pull the level towards you..you see the movement.

 

Thanks a lot! Didn't know it was there. May I know then what's the lever near the high/low beam switch that you can pull/push towards or away from you??

[Ah Pek]

Thanks a lot! Didn't know it was there. May I know then what's the lever near the high/low beam switch that you can pull/push towards or away from you??

 

To actuate the choke linkage. Use only when your bike cannot star in the early morning. Hardly used and for many years, the cable can get jammed. If it does, take away the cable. Not worth getting a new one. Some ppl use a key chain ring and lock on the linkage on the right. When everr needed...just pull and let go...cheap and effective.

[soma]

To actuate the choke linkage. Use only when your bike cannot star in the early morning. Hardly used and for many years, the cable can get jammed. If it does, take away the cable. Not worth getting a new one. Some ppl use a key chain ring and lock on the linkage on the right. When everr needed...just pull and let go...cheap and effective.

 

Sorry so many questions...so pull towards is to actuate the choke linkage or push away? Thks

[Ah Pek]

Sorry so many questions...so pull towards is to actuate the choke linkage or push away? Thks

 

Do it and then tell us lah...aiyoh!!!

[Marcheline]

Sorry so many questions...so pull towards is to actuate the choke linkage or push away? Thks

Push away to close the choke. Pull towards to actuate. You're right.