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Posted
ok... thanks.. btw it seems like now adays the crack like got alil bigger.. like more splashing on my leg.. is it possible? with coolant inside the crack wont get bigger rite??

 

Ianie..is your engine block still leaking? I got another formulation that might just works..no guarantee but worth the try for $35. Let me know.

 

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Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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Posted
Anything oso can as long as the tyre wall don't rub or touch your swing arm. Expect higher fc.

 

 

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erm.. i'm riding a PB1.. wat tyre do u recommend?? i wanted pilot road 2.. but unique sport juz pmed me that they dun have the size for me.. n he recommend me pirelli sport demon?? any suggestions??

Rides : :gun:

YBR125 (Nov 2007 - Mar 2009 )

CB400 PB1 (Mar 2009 - Mar 2010 )

FZ6S S1 (Present)

Posted

In my opinion sport demon not bad. Previously on my VersionS I used IRC 160/60 cos I like to take corners and I used up all the way to the edge. For normal riding a nice size would be 150/60 or 150/70 if I'm not wrong.

"Don't do onto others, what you don't want others to do onto you"

"What goes around, comes around"

Posted

price wise i think pirelli sport demon is slightly cheaper than BT39.. but performance wise?? have u ever tried that?? or as wat many would think.. is BT21 the best tyre for s4??

Rides : :gun:

YBR125 (Nov 2007 - Mar 2009 )

CB400 PB1 (Mar 2009 - Mar 2010 )

FZ6S S1 (Present)

Posted
erm.. i'm riding a PB1.. wat tyre do u recommend?? i wanted pilot road 2.. but unique sport juz pmed me that they dun have the size for me.. n he recommend me pirelli sport demon?? any suggestions??

 

Ah Pek very simple one lah..sticking to stock and original..I use Dunlope Arrowmax GT501 150/70 rear, front 110/70..cheap (less than $220 for a complete set) and good, more for everyday use and some solid sport conering..consider it a long lasting sports touring tire..non compound. Size max for rear on a PB1 is 150.

 

If you are into low profile and compound, the choice is plenty and for Dunlope, its the Alpha. Singapore road lah..not into firece continental brand..every year oso got new model...I stick to stock where it has been tested on a S4 in their R&D for its best handling.

 

 

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Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

but my rear is 160/70!!! OMG.. is it that the previous owner changed it?? but how come can fit??

Rides : :gun:

YBR125 (Nov 2007 - Mar 2009 )

CB400 PB1 (Mar 2009 - Mar 2010 )

FZ6S S1 (Present)

Posted
but my rear is 160/70!!! OMG.. is it that the previous owner changed it?? but how come can fit??

 

Check the wall of both side of the tyre and you can see its very close to the swingarm body length. Seen it before..not recommended but mototiam will tell you its ok (not all though)...but they forgot they are not Japanese Honda desin engineer...LOL! Anyway..bigger tyre behind does not mean better cornering and handling especially it does not 'talk' to the front tyre and fork height geometry..but for straight top speed, its what it can offer, that's all..period.

 

Btw...60 is low profile and usually compound..70 is taller and non compound. Compound tyre life span is about half or less that non compound. You have to know what you want. No such thing as "what tyre is good for the wet?"..take corner, touch brake oso all baung!...LOL!

 

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Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

isee.. no wonder my cornering always not stable la.. but still got alot of threads leh.. if wanna change like wasted lidat.. hmmm.. so best is 150/70 for rear tyre?? thanks ah pek..

Rides : :gun:

YBR125 (Nov 2007 - Mar 2009 )

CB400 PB1 (Mar 2009 - Mar 2010 )

FZ6S S1 (Present)

Posted

err.. then for the thickness wise can change to thinner tyre?? wat will happen if lets say i change to 150/60 in stead of 150/70??

Rides : :gun:

YBR125 (Nov 2007 - Mar 2009 )

CB400 PB1 (Mar 2009 - Mar 2010 )

FZ6S S1 (Present)

Posted
price wise i think pirelli sport demon is slightly cheaper than BT39.. but performance wise?? have u ever tried that?? or as wat many would think.. is BT21 the best tyre for s4??

 

Bt39 quite sticky n it get used up pretty fast......12k mileage botak until can see the white fibres....i hav yet to try the pirelli sport demon but saw its around the same price with arrowmax.

 

Ah Pek very simple one lah..sticking to stock and original..I use Dunlope Arrowmax GT501 150/70 rear, front 110/70..cheap (less than $220 for a complete set) and good, more for everyday use and some solid sport conering..consider it a long lasting sports touring tire..non compound. Size max for rear on a PB1 is 150.

 

If you are into low profile and compound, the choice is plenty and for Dunlope, its the Alpha. Singapore road lah..not into firece continental brand..every year oso got new model...I stick to stock where it has been tested on a S4 in their R&D for its best handling.

 

 

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yup arrowmax is best all around tire.....can last until 30k km until see white fibre....n u definitely can corner with this tire even w the size 140...so ur sides will be well polished......

 

i ever try bt090 but it lasted only 10k km until reli2 botak white n its 40 bucks more expensive than arrowmax but u can feel that the tire love to let u lean readily n much2 sticker when its heated up.i guess its a sport tendency tire..

 

so for me arrowmax is value for money yet meet my little taste for cornerin to keep e tire well rounded...

I ride at 70km/hr only...please please dont blow2 at me or overtake me dangerously....wait i change into Incredible Hulk n dont know why my little baby bike will always be ahead of u if u do that

Posted

okay.. so wat is a good indication that its time to change tyre??

 

 

btw.. ah pek!! jus now i tried to sand my header.. n its really amazing.. all the black stains are gone.. but i jus manage to clean some cuz its getting dark already.. haha.. muz find one fine day no work den slowly clean up.. juz to check with u ar.. muz put water when using the sand paper?? otherwise will end up having alot of scratch marks on the header rite??

Rides : :gun:

YBR125 (Nov 2007 - Mar 2009 )

CB400 PB1 (Mar 2009 - Mar 2010 )

FZ6S S1 (Present)

Posted
okay.. so wat is a good indication that its time to change tyre??

 

 

btw.. ah pek!! jus now i tried to sand my header.. n its really amazing.. all the black stains are gone.. but i jus manage to clean some cuz its getting dark already.. haha.. muz find one fine day no work den slowly clean up.. juz to check with u ar.. muz put water when using the sand paper?? otherwise will end up having alot of scratch marks on the header rite??

 

Great job there! Yes..use the finest sand waterproof paper you can find...No. 1200 is just great..use with water and "Jif"..don't rub hard with force..just touch and gently sand with semi circular motion. Blur never mind..get rid of the stubborn accumulated stain first. Later, polished with "Meaguire"..available at NTUC..its a metal polish..smell very nice in a small dark blue plastic container with a green cab. Keep using the black polished area of the cloth till shine like chrome shows (white of with clean cloth). Kilat like hell!..its not chrome but shinny steel!:cheeky:

 

 

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Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
err.. then for the thickness wise can change to thinner tyre?? wat will happen if lets say i change to 150/60 in stead of 150/70??

 

Original is 140/70 and actually it handle better than 150/70...its more nibble on 'S' bend type country road riding and light on handling. The fact that I choose 150/70 because of more rubber for the same price....LOL! Anyway..I may change back to 140..just a tot if its cheaper...LOL!

 

One more thing..if you have 150/70 at its point of wearing out time, the back and front tyre does not coordinate very well...so likely I be back on 140/70.

 

 

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Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Btw how do pple determine that their tires are harden? Cos i think the tires on my bike have been used for quite a while and the threads are still quite deep, but i wanna check for tire hardening.

~ Future Ride ~

CBR600rr :thumb:

 

~ Current Drive ~

Kia Cerato Forte SX 1.6 SJU

 

~ Previous Rides ~

1. Spark 135 FBA | 2. NSR 150 SP FS | 3. Yamaha x1 FY | 4. Honda s4 verS FP

Posted
Btw how do pple determine that their tires are harden? Cos i think the tires on my bike have been used for quite a while and the threads are still quite deep, but i wanna check for tire hardening.

 

1st have to know that if your tyre is compound type or not.

 

2ndly..make sure your air pressure is right and tyre is cool. Visually look for any sign of cracks not caused by cuts. Take a piece of small sand stone and press on the surface and see if it sinks in..if not..its hard liao.

 

Still can use as long as it got thread but lower air pressure slighly and don't brake sudden on wet surface but rather hard and gradual.

 

Btw...your switch is not ready for this weekend..have to wait till next week. If any good news for the weekend..will let you know.:sian:

 

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Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Great job there! Yes..use the finest sand waterproof paper you can find...No. 1200 is just great..use with water and "Jif"..don't rub hard with force..just touch and gently sand with semi circular motion. Blur never mind..get rid of the stubborn accumulated stain first. Later, polished with "Meaguire"..available at NTUC..its a metal polish..smell very nice in a small dark blue plastic container with a green cab. Keep using the black polished area of the cloth till shine like chrome shows (white of with clean cloth). Kilat like hell!..its not chrome but shinny steel!:cheeky:

 

 

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hahaz.. will try that when i'm free.. but have to take out the whole exhaust.. else cant reach the inner part plus muz remove my belly pan also.. think muz find a day tat no work n wake up early early to start.. lolz..

Rides : :gun:

YBR125 (Nov 2007 - Mar 2009 )

CB400 PB1 (Mar 2009 - Mar 2010 )

FZ6S S1 (Present)

Posted

Ah Pek is very knowladgebleable indeed.

 

For non vtech riders that do not know, and/or never see owner's manual before, FIY the manucfaturer recomanded front and rear tires are:

 

front 110/70 54H

rear 140/70 66H

 

If you have little, or no idea what type of tires to use, stick to manufacture's recommendation.

Do take note the H grade means max speed of 210km/h, which can easily exceed by a derestric super four. When you are on the bike at speed of more than 200km/h, tyre gone most likely means life also gone.

 

Like to know more for tires can do a google on 'tires spec' or 'tires code'.

Posted (edited)
Ah Pek is very knowladgebleable indeed.

 

For non vtech riders that do not know, and/or never see owner's manual before, FIY the manucfaturer recomanded front and rear tires are:

 

front 110/70 54H

rear 140/70 66H

 

If you have little, or no idea what type of tires to use, stick to manufacture's recommendation.

Do take note the H grade means max speed of 210km/h, which can easily exceed by a derestric super four. When you are on the bike at speed of more than 200km/h, tyre gone most likely means life also gone.

 

Like to know more for tires can do a google on 'tires spec' or 'tires code'.

 

thanks for the infos aaa3237.. really din know that original size is 140/70 rear.. lolz..

 

anyways.. how do u know the rim is the original size.. n that it had not been changed by the previous owner??

Edited by darrellc

Rides : :gun:

YBR125 (Nov 2007 - Mar 2009 )

CB400 PB1 (Mar 2009 - Mar 2010 )

FZ6S S1 (Present)

Posted
1st have to know that if your tyre is compound type or not.

 

2ndly..make sure your air pressure is right and tyre is cool. Visually look for any sign of cracks not caused by cuts. Take a piece of small sand stone and press on the surface and see if it sinks in..if not..its hard liao.

 

Still can use as long as it got thread but lower air pressure slighly and don't brake sudden on wet surface but rather hard and gradual.

 

Btw...your switch is not ready for this weekend..have to wait till next week. If any good news for the weekend..will let you know.:sian:

 

Hmm.. Ok no probz.. Means i got time to study tomorrow.. Thanks ah pek for info.. I think tomorrow morning i should be down washing my bike.. haha

 

Actually, i tested my tires b4 and i think it's hard already.. Cos there are cracks in the tires and also cannot press down.. The only issue with the hard tires is only during wet days? Cos i work out doors and travel a lot, so i guess it will be bad? My current air pressure i pump is 245 front, 265 rear cos i usually ride alone.

~ Future Ride ~

CBR600rr :thumb:

 

~ Current Drive ~

Kia Cerato Forte SX 1.6 SJU

 

~ Previous Rides ~

1. Spark 135 FBA | 2. NSR 150 SP FS | 3. Yamaha x1 FY | 4. Honda s4 verS FP

Posted
thanks for the infos aaa3237.. really din know that original size is 140/70 rear.. lolz..

 

anyways.. how do u know the rim is the original size.. n that it had not been changed by the previous owner??

 

It won't fit I guess.:sian:

 

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Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Hmm.. Ok no probz.. Means i got time to study tomorrow.. Thanks ah pek for info.. I think tomorrow morning i should be down washing my bike.. haha

 

Actually, i tested my tires b4 and i think it's hard already.. Cos there are cracks in the tires and also cannot press down.. The only issue with the hard tires is only during wet days? Cos i work out doors and travel a lot, so i guess it will be bad? My current air pressure i pump is 245 front, 265 rear cos i usually ride alone.

 

You can come down here and wash if you want..just bring your cleaning stuff. and a 20 cents coin or two..I get the big pail for you.

 

 

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Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Hi ah pek,

 

I was thinking of install Current Stimulator on my bike and that time you told me about your current stimulator. Is it possible for you to pm me the pricing including installation for the current stimulator? Cos i was also look at power abuser and was thinking of installing it..

 

Cos wanna compare the pricing..

 

Heh Xianbanz..that's not a "stimulator"..its a taser thingy and really NASTY SHOCK! Cannot lah..its illegal..anything swaye_swaye goes wrong I kenna go court for manslaughter I :faint:liao. Btw..I'm in the process of building 5 double (one for fan and one for headlamp) waterproof switches liao..believe you want one?..this one can lah.:sian:

 

Not power abuser..that's a 'toy'...EPS CCA (Cold Cranking Amphere (current)) you mean...yah, that's good for your bike electrical load performance. Since you got my grounding, it works well :thumb:

 

Curious about the difference between Ah Pek's current stimulator (as mentioned by xiaobanz) and PowerAbuser (another current stimulator) product.

 

Can descript more? Or even picture of it? :shy:

 

Want to know really worth to have PowerAbuser at that price or not. :angel:

Posted
Curious about the difference between Ah Pek's current stimulator (as mentioned by xiaobanz) and PowerAbuser (another current stimulator) product.

 

Can descript more? Or even picture of it? :shy:

 

Want to know really worth to have PowerAbuser at that price or not. :angel:

 

For a start..there is no such thing as "Current Simulator"..self explanatory..how can one simulate current..flight simulatore got lah...LOL! Anyway, it's his own terms of words..LOL!

 

Things like Power Abuser, Revtec..and whatever, they call it "voltage stablizer" or whatever. In truth, these are suppose to be CCA (Cold Current Apmpheres) booster unit. Booster is just a choice of words..but to describe what it does is more accurate. What it does is that it aids the battery or rather 'assist' in provison for your bike electrical load thus taking the task of electrical laod for the bike function requirement. It does off load the battery task (after all the battery is only to start your bike) and rectified dc for the bike needs.Most important, they provide good consistant voltage requirement to your iginition coils for the step-up voltage for the sparkplug firing gap.

 

 

How it works..basically, this unit consist of hi quality charge holding capacitor and provide the same constant as that of a fully charge battery but with better dischage and charge rate of a battery. Get the good ones..brand name is EPS (Efficient Power System). Interested..PM me..got a second hand one that is hardly use for 2 months.

 

 

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Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
For a start..there is no such thing as "Current Simulator"..self explanatory..how can one simulate current..flight simulatore got lah...LOL! Anyway, it's his own terms of words..LOL!

 

http://www.equip-x.com/estore/product_info.php?cPath=86_30&products_id=34

 

Haha no la, i took it from the distributor of power abuser.. Check out the webby..

~ Future Ride ~

CBR600rr :thumb:

 

~ Current Drive ~

Kia Cerato Forte SX 1.6 SJU

 

~ Previous Rides ~

1. Spark 135 FBA | 2. NSR 150 SP FS | 3. Yamaha x1 FY | 4. Honda s4 verS FP

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