[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[Ah Pek]

Pek, yesterday i called you stated that the reserve tank coolant is at the brim and cause some leaking from the breather tube. today i again ride to and fro about 70km. i open the side cover to check the reserve coolant tank again. Is still at the brim. Try to feel the coolant with finger dipping in ,is at normal temp. How come the reserve tank dun flow back to radiator ? Is it because of raining whole day since morning till now?? or something wrong with my coolant system ? please advice.

 

It's normal..nothing wrong. It means that your coolant system is fine and not reaching extreme heat and that all the water jacket surrounding your engine block are in correct coolant content. The longer your refilled tank stays that way, the ebtter.

[Ah Pek]

means the tube from the reserve coolant tank is connect direct to the raidator cap neck? it does not go thru the pump?? And in the process of boiling coolant. it flow to the reserve coolant tank dosent make the radiator hotter in some sense as less coolant is in the radiator potion ?

 

"it flow to the reserve coolant tank dosent make the radiator hotter in some sense as less coolant is in the radiator potion ?"

 

Your question makes me blur liao..free one Sunday kopetiam session you come down.

[darrellc]

hi ah pek.. the eo change was good.. but now the engine sound is kind of weird.. like more coarse than before.. will update again when come back from a short tour..

[Ah Pek]

hi ah pek... one qn...

 

i notice that now after switching to ur blend, my idling after warming up for arnd 5mins or so seems to be lower, arnd 1k rpm, where it used to be arnd 1.2k ++... izzit becoz of the "thicker" blend?? i read once a while back that u say the eo from mebbe a 10w40, when mixed, will have a "higher" viscosity rating, lets say a 20w50??

 

or its me being paranoid and theres nuthing to worry abt?? hahaha... thx in advance...

 

From your post..am not sure is 1k or 1.2k is good for you..at any rate, you can have what you want by adjusting the idling screw to your desire idling rpm value.

 

EO mixes..we actually don't need 10W..20W would be better. This does not contribute to the above rpm idling. For old bikes, thicker in vecosity is better..better cushioning and engine noise muffling. Lubricating quality is dependent on the type of quality oil you use..nothing to do with vicosity. Each ahs their own purpose.

 

As for how thick the "W" values..yes, it increases in vicosity numbers but it can't be too thick too or there be resistance and too much oil pressure build up..thus retard performance. Has to be just right.

 

1st year bike not recommended.

[Ah Pek]

hi ah pek, i have some enquires to ask on ver.s. Although I only ride 2-3 times a week, it appears that my bike still have some problems.

 

Service History:

I went to ah chong workshop during July to change:

1.maxima extra EO (previous used less than 1500km)

2.new oil filter (previous used less than 1500km)

3.flushed and top up normal coolent (previous used maxima coolent)

4.new water pump (due to leakage in june i supposed when i parked after riding will 5notice it dripped below slowly, reserve coolent become empty)

5. steering cone

 

So when travelling at gear 6, 90km @ 6k rpm is it normal? cause i notice that it wasnt like that in the past, should be @ 5k rpm if im not wrong. All at high rpm but at low speed when changing gear. another example is at gear 5, 50km @ 4k rpm. (Im using original spocket and chain and tyres)

 

My FC now is 20~22km, dropped from previously at 25~28km since April.

 

The mech at ubi recommend me to wash my carb to solve the problem. Im afraid that it may be due engine block damage caused by dry up coolent previously. Not really sure what is the cause, please enlighten me.

 

Also, sometime when I engaged to gear 6, I can kick up again slightly. Is it time to change my spocket and chain? Or just need to adjust?

 

So when travelling at gear 6, 90km @ 6k rpm is it normal? cause i notice that it wasnt like that in the past, should be @ 5k rpm if im not wrong. All at high rpm but at low speed when changing gear. another example is at gear 5, 50km @ 4k rpm. (Im using original spocket and chain and tyres)

This is very subjective and many factors contribute to such 'problems'. The norm is at 6 gear crusing at 6k rpm, generally the speedo should indicate about 100km..and some slightly better. The best I know is at 100km wif rpm at 5.8k rpm. Factors like Sprocket size, chain slack, how you drag the bike initially to pick up speed, eo type, back electrical loading (need grounding), weak alternator, tyre pressure...etc..one reason too many or a few factors at one time can caused it.

 

My FC now is 20~22km, dropped from previously at 25~28km since April.

Same as above.

 

The mech at ubi recommend me to wash my carb to solve the problem. Im afraid that it may be due engine block damage caused by dry up coolent previously. Not really sure what is the cause, please enlighten me.

He's a mech by trade..I'm not but I totally disagreed. He has to give you the reason as to why he concluded so. Happened once , twice too often, rider listen to mech..then problem still there..then..then..haiz. Its up to you, like I say, I'm no Mech but I get things solve the logically. Whatever your decision, never dismantle your carbs for servicing unless you have to change something inside...most wise advise!

 

Also, sometime when I engaged to gear 6, I can kick up again slightly. Is it time to change my spocket and chain? Or just need to adjust?

Sound like a little too much gripping free play. Check your tightening lock nut of the gear shift lever clamp taht clamped to the drive gear shaft..could be loose. Better do so before all the teeth on your gear shaft get smoothen out.

[Ah Pek]

hi ah pek.. the eo change was good.. but now the engine sound is kind of weird.. like more coarse than before.. will update again when come back from a short tour..

 

LOL!..yes, wierd indeed and first time I heard. "Coarse" is by feel..not heard...noisy you meant?

[logen1836]

Hi Ah Pek! Long time no see..

Nway,jus wanna check wid ya..

My gear changing is not so smooth now.

Especially when i wanna kick up to gear 2,

it gets stuck @ neutral & i gotta kick up again.

could it be my chain & sprocket due to wear & tear?

[Ah Pek]

Hi Ah Pek! Long time no see..

Nway,jus wanna check wid ya..

My gear changing is not so smooth now.

Especially when i wanna kick up to gear 2,

it gets stuck @ neutral & i gotta kick up again.

could it be my chain & sprocket due to wear & tear?

 

I won't know till I see your bike. Could be chain adjustment problem like having to much slack or clutch cable adjustment. Free come see me.

[darrellc]

hmmm.. not sure.. just not used to the sound i guess.. will try to drag the bike n see how's the effect..

[Tanaka]

Not with this blend but have another lagi special one that can last up to 15k (harsh riding) - 20k (normal style riding) without X-1R but cost $36 per litre.

 

I'm waiting to try out the one without X-1R, Change engine oil (ah pek's blend) yesterday. All i can say is that my Version S is so shiok like it was given a new life....

 

So shiok until i forget to take back my belly ban, luckily ah pek relise.

[kenshi1777]

hmmm.. not sure.. just not used to the sound i guess.. will try to drag the bike n see how's the effect..

 

try change gear above 6k min if road permit. 4-5k most of the s4 biker will feel not so smooth and a bit of vibration. Think the feel as u mentioned is cause by that?

[kenshi1777]

"it flow to the reserve coolant tank dosent make the radiator hotter in some sense as less coolant is in the radiator potion ?"

 

Your question makes me blur liao..free one Sunday kopetiam session you come down.

 

Ok, should be blur. Because i also blur already. Need a tutorial class from u regarding coolant system one of the sunday. Thanks

[xgstx]

ah Pek, got any idea how much e switch on the throttle side for the on/off engine cost? was told by a couple of shop its comes as a whole set assembly, cant change just the switch . already crack till rain water can seep in like no tomolo, lol.

[Ah Pek]

ah Pek, got any idea how much e switch on the throttle side for the on/off engine cost? was told by a couple of shop its comes as a whole set assembly, cant change just the switch . already crack till rain water can seep in like no tomolo, lol.

 

Check wif Logen1836..he just had his changed at Ah Fook...I think he told me $75 or so. Yes, the whole unit need to be changed. Have to let him know what model of bike first as the item has to be identified first.

[logen1836]

I won't know till I see your bike. Could be chain adjustment problem like having to much slack or clutch cable adjustment. Free come see me.

 

Roger!

[logen1836]

Check wif Logen1836..he just had his changed at Ah Fook...I think he told me $75 or so. Yes, the whole unit need to be changed. Have to let him know what model of bike first as the item has to be identified first.

 

Cost is $85 from Ah Fook. =)

[hanxx]

What's wrong with the stock exhaust..why mod and what benefits do you get? If you want power and performance without breaking the rules..go for liquid engineering. If you are into esthetic look or "sound garang" of your exhaust I have no further comment then.

 

Ah pek is right,want to go for esthetic look or sound garang,i rather u change a legal aftermarket pipe like micron.LOL.

 

Illegal mod = $$$$$$$$$$$$

[raziin_360]

Good advise ..to add, if you know have an original just for inspection purposes, can 'rent' from Drangonforce for a small fee of $25...LOL!

 

yea i have a spare exhaust at home which i wanna try to project.. juz wanna see and feel the difference.. anyone care to share..

[piggy83sg]

refer to post #9924 & #9925.

 

hi ah pek, thanks for the insight feedback and suggestion.

 

My riding style is changing gear at 3.5~4k rpm for each gear and normally travelling at 85~100km/h. Im using original DID spocket and chain. The chain seem normal, not that slack nor rusty. I occasionally will spray the chain. Engine oil is using maxima extra. Tyre is BT045 front & rear, alway pump 235 front and 270 rear pressure. However, lately I cant pump my rear tyre to 270. There will be a "hiss" sound and tyre pressure will drop and limit to 250.

 

Maybe I will ask the ah chong to check on my bike grounding, tyres, gear shift lever and clutch plate. I heard clutch plate will affect the bike FC also. I try not to wash or service my carb as much as possible since it is an old bike. Once opened, problem will surface very soon. Thanks.

[piggy83sg]

sorry ah pek, i forgot to ask you. how much is your special blended EO? I wanna try and change to your EO and oil filter.

[kifakw]

hmm i realize one more problem with my bike, when i start my bike to warm up i try to touch my exhaust header and found out that 1 of the 4 header is so much slower to heat up then the rest of the three. it like 3 other pipe is really hot but the one is jus warm only. any idea wat may be the cause?

i foresee a big problem man !!!!

 

you'd need to do a carb cleaning plus change the pins inside the carb. probably around $180 - $200 like that.

 

i kena this problem before. on gear 1 when moving off, you'll feel that the bike has no torque to move at all.

[kifakw]

yea i have a spare exhaust at home which i wanna try to project.. juz wanna see and feel the difference.. anyone care to share..

 

there's no difference, just noise only.

 

if you want difference, install a stage 1/2 dyno kits plus a full system.

 

spend more money on maintenance/aftermarket exhaust, it'd be more advisable.

 

illegal mod of pipe = $700 + GST.

[fi_east]

hi, got a problem here, my headlight is not working man, changed bulbs but still not working, changed to my spare headlight still not working.. ... but the signal lights are working..... can anyone tell me whats wrong wit the bike please... haizzzz.... thanks a lot in advance....

[allenkey]

hi, got a problem here, my headlight is not working man, changed bulbs but still not working, changed to my spare headlight still not working.. ... but the signal lights are working..... can anyone tell me whats wrong wit the bike please... haizzzz.... thanks a lot in advance....

 

open ur fuse box, check the the 2nd one (frm left) it's probably blown. replace it

[lfc131]

hi, got a problem here, my headlight is not working man, changed bulbs but still not working, changed to my spare headlight still not working.. ... but the signal lights are working..... can anyone tell me whats wrong wit the bike please... haizzzz.... thanks a lot in advance....

 

It may be the fuse located left side panel of the bike..