$10 Carlube 5W/40 fully synthetic engine oil for motorcycles at NTUC Fairprice Xtra

[byte77]

http://www.carlube.co.uk/clients/www.carlube.co.uk/assets//Image/motorcycle/4Stroke-Ful-Syn-Lg.jpg

 

http://www.carlube.co.uk/index.cfm?product=79&product_title=Carlube%204%20Stroke%20Fully%20Synthetic

 

Carlube 4 Stroke Fully Synthetic motorcycle oil is for high performance and race replica motorcycle engines, suitable for both air and water cooled European and Japanese engines. Carlube 4Stroke oil is formulated to meet the demands of modern multi valve motorcycle engines running at constant high levels of performance.

Specifications: Exceeds API SG and JASO MA

 

Carlube is the UK's largest independent producer of oils for the automotive industry, offering an extensive range of lubricants to meet the ever changing demands of modern vehicles.

This Carlube 5W/40 fully synthetic motorcycle oil is going for $10 only at NTUC Fairprice Xtra Hypermarket (Jurong Point, Hougang Point, AMK Hub).

Maybe a good stuff to try?

Edited July 25, 2010 by byte77

[xXxRatedxXx]

Later piston piang.... dono what UK brand ah?

 

Suitable for those who like to DIY oil change... save at least $10 on fully syn at motordiams.

Edited July 25, 2010 by xXxRatedxXx

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

Might you care to take a closer look at the API and JASO specifications if any? If it's of a recent specification like SM, it's a safe bet that it can be used for new bikes on the road. Otherwise consult the manual to see what is the minimum spec formulation.

 

There are riders who vouch by very cheap locally produced oils but any serious bike enthusiast won't mind spending $0 to $6 more for a reputed high performance oil from a bike shop. Especially if any sort of hard riding is considered (yes this includes making YBRs go 90 on the highway)

 

Examples are Motul, Chex, etc.

 

If these oils are super-expensive then yes I will use made in Malaysia oil but Motul 3000 20W50 (good for old aircooled bikes) is only $10, and you can get German full synthetics (very good, quiet-running) at only $16.

[osimese]

when expensive ppl will complain, when cheap ppl will doubt. but no way i going to use this on my ride.

[Your Mother]

Definite no use on my bike. I'd rather settle for something that is a bit more expensive but definitely more ensuring of better quality.

[crazydj]

I think i saw this at Giant Tampines for 8 bucks plus. Was really considering buying at and read up about it. It seems its alright for motorcycles. Hell, i even considered putting vegetable oil in my bike. Just a thought.

 

PS: Kaylan, i am always attracted to your posts cause always got credit YBRs. How come you know so much about YBRs? Haha.

[RxzDelux]

Might you care to take a closer look at the API and JASO specifications if any? If it's of a recent specification like SM, it's a safe bet that it can be used for new bikes on the road. Otherwise consult the manual to see what is the minimum spec formulation.

 

There are riders who vouch by very cheap locally produced oils but any serious bike enthusiast won't mind spending $0 to $6 more for a reputed high performance oil from a bike shop. Especially if any sort of hard riding is considered (yes this includes making YBRs go 90 on the highway)

 

Examples are Motul, Chex, etc.

 

If these oils are super-expensive then yes I will use made in Malaysia oil but Motul 3000 20W50 (good for old aircooled bikes) is only $10, and you can get German full synthetics (very good, quiet-running) at only $16.

 

 

 

Bro, not forgoting there is PENZZOIL 4T in Malaysia Bolehland oso. Hehe.

[crazydj]

Bro, not forgoting there is PENZZOIL 4T in Malaysia Bolehland oso. Hehe.

 

OMG where you guys buy these cheap oils? I need to know. I really wanna buy a fully synthetic oil for 5 bucks.

[mild_slevin]

Might you care to take a closer look at the API and JASO specifications if any? If it's of a recent specification like SM, it's a safe bet that it can be used for new bikes on the road. Otherwise consult the manual to see what is the minimum spec formulation.

 

There are riders who vouch by very cheap locally produced oils but any serious bike enthusiast won't mind spending $0 to $6 more for a reputed high performance oil from a bike shop. Especially if any sort of hard riding is considered (yes this includes making YBRs go 90 on the highway)

 

Examples are Motul, Chex, etc.

 

If these oils are super-expensive then yes I will use made in Malaysia oil but Motul 3000 20W50 (good for old aircooled bikes) is only $10, and you can get German full synthetics (very good, quiet-running) at only $16.

 

Kalyan you surely have lots of information on E.O. I have read up some details u wrote on the E.O. discussion thread. You gave me a idea of what to look out for when purchasing E.O.

 

About the "Carlube", sadly it didn't meet my bike manufacturer minimum require of 10W 40. I check my manual, it said that the SAE figure "40" refer to average atmospheric temperature. Can I say that rating "40" is actually more than enough for sillypore temperature? Does single grade works in our country?

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

A "10 W 40" is a multigrade motor oil.

 

It has a SAE rating of 10 when "cold" and 40 when "at operating temperature".

 

Cold is like from normal cold start; ambient temps, and operating temp is about 100 deg C

 

A lower rating oil flows faster and does not freeze as easily. Some of the latest cars built for economy also use oils with a viscosity rating as low as 0W20, because the lighter oil presents less pumping drag to the engine.

 

However, for high temperature conditions, such as running flat out on the track, or dealing with tropical weather, we need a high rating oil for protective purposes.

 

Sadly I'm not an oil engineer but you can find out lots of excellent reading material from websites such as :

 

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

 

The author tells us how to read the labels of multigrade motor oils right on the 3rd paragraph.

 

The thing about using lower-grade oils deliberately for fuel savings is derived from another article I've read, about a doctor turned oil enthusiast deliberately using zero-weight (such as 0W20) in his Ferrari. He doesn't take the car out to track days so at low speeds and power levels, he benefited from the decreased drag from the lighter oil.

 

Obviously for high revving bike engines, using a lighter grade oil is not a good idea. UNLESS, we're talking about synthetic oils, which being man-made, gives superior protective capability, and temperature resistance, while flowing faster than a mineral oil.

 

Kopitiam engineering comparison over the past 4 months or so:

 

1. 10W40 mineral (Castrol) and 20W50 mineral (Motul 3000) - engine loud as hell, oil breaks down during high temperature/high power conditions. Had one instance of lubrication failure during Neo Tiew run. But since I bought a Honda, it didn't break down

 

2. 15W50 semi (Motul 5000) - Yielded far better smoothness and very 'slippery', responsive feeling from the engine. But KNN, the synthetic half of the blend kept evaporating after hard riding! (Partly due to me doing DIY intake upgrade and not tuning carb. Lean mixture = HOT)

 

3. 10W40 synthetic (Chex) - Engine is really quiet, much better throttle response, solved piston slap noises when cold starting, as the oil leaves a very sticky film when cold. Flows faster when started cold = superior protection. However, torque is reduced. But that's not a problem I just tuned the carb settings more aggressively!

 

4. 10W50 synthetic (Chex again, older bottle) - Retains cold start protection and when up to operating temperature, as powerful as when I'm using 20W50. Does not suffer from oil evaporation problems as with Motul semi, no funny mechanical noises after 6-8 hours of convoy ops. Pillions comment that the "Type R" Phantom is much faster than "normal" Phantom, although I warn them that they will get permanently deafened...

 

And that's my experience of 4-stroke lubrication so far. Note that other riders would have different preferences of oil brand vs performance. The individual "butt dynos", and user preferences for vehicle handling all play a part in the differing opinions.

 

 

 

Note: Carbibles got the oil viscosity details wrong. He doesn't mention that each grade is formulated for a certain temperature range. So don't rely on just one source!

 

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w86/millman12345/saerates.gif

Edited July 26, 2010 by Pandora's Kitten :3

[kinwei]

Kalyan you surely have lots of information on E.O. I have read up some details u wrote on the E.O. discussion thread. You gave me a idea of what to look out for when purchasing E.O.

 

About the "Carlube", sadly it didn't meet my bike manufacturer minimum require of 10W 40. I check my manual, it said that the SAE figure "40" refer to average atmospheric temperature. Can I say that rating "40" is actually more than enough for sillypore temperature? Does single grade works in our country?

 

Since we are a tropical country, single grade will work for us but make sure it is not the winter grade which is accompany by "W". The "40" means the viscosity at the average atmospheric temperature. It does not means temperature.

[yenyenpark]

http://www.carlube.co.uk/index.cfm?page=1

 

well, this brand of engine oil very famous in mycarforum (similar to sgbikes), and many says it's cheap and good... I personally stock 2 big bottles for my car..

 

and again hor, I didn't know there is Motorcycle engine oil too..

 

those car owner should "sayang" their cars as we do to our bike, so I don't think it's really a CRAPPY oil.. sayang mean cares..

[S750WP]

I used the Carlube fully syn 10W40 car engine oil for my Hyundai Getz, renew every 10k, so far so good, no complaint . But maybe not for luxury/performance cars though.

 

Didn't know they produce engine oil for motorcycle, will definitely give it a try.

[Phang]

Same same here, my wife’s car is running on this cheapo engine oil for the past 160,000km (car has 220,000+km on the odometer now) change every 10,000km. When I opened up the rocker cover to replace a leaky gasket at 200,000km the cam lobes and rockers surface were as good as new.

 

I grabbed this batch of carlube 2 years ago at $24/5 liters, that’s 40 liters in 2 cartons. Can last many many years

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/DSCN6165.jpg

[kinwei]

I think as long it adhere to the standard for motorcycle, it is worth trying. Worst case, just treat it like a mineral oil and drain out within 1k km. May try it for my next oil change.

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

If the car oil has friction reducers and is cheap enough to warrant a bulk purchase..... can try using it for bike chain lube.

 

If the friction reducers can reduce friction on bike chains we have ourselves a new fuel efficiency formula for bikes

[stsoh]

tried b4, not good......worst than currently using semi eo.

same as mineral oil, even it's labeled as fully syn.

most probably hydro-crack processed dino eo.

[ProFatSir]

Same same here, my wife’s car is running on this cheapo engine oil for the past 160,000km (car has 220,000+km on the odometer now) change every 10,000km. When I opened up the rocker cover to replace a leaky gasket at 200,000km the cam lobes and rockers surface were as good as new.

 

I grabbed this batch of carlube 2 years ago at $24/5 liters, that’s 40 liters in 2 cartons. Can last many many years

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/DSCN6165.jpg

 

WA...you win liao loh.......buy so many..

 

btw more oil change(less than 10k km usage) is better than less oil change(more than 10k km usage)

[mikeang33]

was thinking if can buy the 5 litre carlube for use on bike???

 

5litr=24buck

1litr onli less then 5buck

[crazydj]

I just put this damn thing in my bike. Bought for 9 bucks from Giant Parkway.

 

Well, it feels like fully synthetic EO though. Engine feels smoother but noisier. If i put fully-synthetic in my bike, always engine noisy at high speed. Dunno why.

 

In a nutshell, this EO feels like, well, fully synthetic EO. Just not as good as Maxima Extra. But for its price, who cares right?

[BLACK COMET]

Some autoscoot riders have feedback on this carlube oil.

 

Cut all the nonsense short. Initially ok. Around 2K mileage. The oil break down like hell and don't last. Most auto scoot will change at 3K.

Personally, I will not use that.

 

Tech perspective. I think carlube is a class IIIA dino oil with lots of additives to make it feels like a fully syn.

 

If cost is a concern. I would sugguest Liquid moly car engine oil. It's a 5-40. A class IV oil. and it's only $65 for 5 liters. I comes in a purple 5 liters pack.

 

The MSDS of this liquid moly reviews that the oil specs is similar to Mobil, esso, Maxima and other fully syn oil.

 

Another worth looking is the Amsoil 10-40 for car. It's not a energy saving oil. Specs seems to point that it's good for aircooled high rev engine. 18 buck per quart. 1 quart is 965ml.