VFR 800

[nkan0]

Originally posted by none@Dec 19 2005, 08:13 AM

A fully charged battery is about 12.7v

Check this before checking your electric system.

 

You need to rev your engine to 5000-5500rpm to determine charging.

Mine was 13.85v with high beam @ 5000rpm.

 

Anything less than 13.5v means either rectifier or alternator.

do u really have to rev till 5000Rpm to determine the charging?

 

as i was changing my tires 2 weeks ago, i got the mech to check my battery & charging, and he used a voltmeter, and track. results showed that once the RPm is above 2000, there appears to have charging on the battery.

[vfrT]

Originally posted by Maverick77@Dec 18 2005, 11:26 PM

Sorry, u mentioned that u loosen the fan switch but I couldn't do it today cos I think our toolbag doesn't have the necessary tool for it. And also is it really advisable to loosen? Cos it says from the manual that sealant need to be added first before tightening back.

 

While air bleeding the cooling system, do we have to let the temp rise above the temp whereby the thermostat becomes open? Or jus any temp will do? Cos I realise after the temp goes beyond the thermostat open stage, when I off engine a lot of coolant jus flow out of the radiator cap...

 

Quite puzzled today cos there seems to be endless bubbles coming out each time I blip the throttle...

You will need a 22mm ring spanner. I did not use sealant and did not encounter any problem, but if you want to, get some teflon tapes thread tapes).

 

Your next question was a very good one and it send me back to the manual (Haynes). I think it would be good to let the thermostat open (at about 84 deg) so that it circulates to the radiators . In a complete flush, this would clear all air. As for the water rising after you turn off the engine, it is inertia that is forcing out the water. Just top up the spill and the reservoir.

 

In one of my earlier posts regarding air bleeding which I copied ad-verbatim from the Honda Manual, it did not mention this - so add this tip to that.

 

Thx for the Q, I learnt something new.

[none]

Originally posted by n@kan0@Dec 19 2005, 11:49 AM

do u really have to rev till 5000Rpm to determine the charging?

 

as i was changing my tires 2 weeks ago, i got the mech to check my battery & charging, and he used a voltmeter, and track. results showed that once the RPm is above 2000, there appears to have charging on the battery.

Our bike is already charging the moment you start it without headlights on.

I read from some VFR forums that the 5k rpm is where the optimal charging starts with everything on.

[none]

1. vfrT - '98 VFR800 (sold at about 80,000km)

- rectifier spoilt at 50,000km. Replacement cost $210. Not a single drop of oil leaked, or oil or coolant top-up needed.

 

2. vfrT - '99 VFR800 (still in use)

- No problems. Present mileage 42000km. Not a single drop of oil leaked, or oil or coolant top-up needed.

 

3. None - '02 VFR800Vtec (still in use 65,000km)

- Front wheel bearing, front sprocket at 38,000km

- Fan thermostat at 56,000km

- Pair of tensioners at 59,000km

- Original battery dies, does not hold charge at 61,500km.

- Steering cone at 65,000km

 

4. HamsterZ - '03 VFR800A3 (still in use, covering 43,000km from 0km) -

1. No problems. No oil leaks, no oil loss (oil level is checked every saturday mornings )

2. No coolant top up (but coolant replaced annually)

3. Side stand bracket M10 bolt vibrated out & dropped of suddenly w/o knowing at about 35,000km. Attached personal service info. (kindly PM if any queries as vfrT mentioned no usually maintainence to be brought up )

5. Batt cannot sustain peak current to start bike properly. Changed new batt at 43,705km at $157.....

PS ---> (rest volt=12.9V, charge volt=14.5V... so batt seems healthy from voltage pt of view. But it doesn't die suddenly.. it has tell tale signs as the diag resets at each failed start)

6. license plate light unknowingly blew at 5000km, replaced at ard 20,000km and blew again... i left it empty w/o lights

7. top taillight main filament blew (brake filament OK) at abt 30,000++km

 

 

5. Koma 02 VFR800A2 (bought at 8000km sold at 46000km)

- no coolant n oil top up ever needed

- magnetic coil burnt at round 30000km resulting in underchargin of battery n therefore alot of push starting of the bike until problem was found out (replacement coil $300)

 

6. Rstopel take over Koma bike @ 46000km. Now at 64000km

- no oil top up needed

- coolant leak a bit at high temp due to slider drilled through reserve tank

- side stand bolt vibrated out & dropped on NSH @ 60.000km (like hamsterz)

[vfrT]

Originally posted by Maverick77@Dec 18 2005, 11:02 PM

Jus installed a new batt cos bike died on me... Was told to take measurements of the voltage of bike when running to chk whether rectifier is ok...

 

These are my observations.

 

Eng off-- 12.4v

Eng on with every other things off-- 14.4 to 14.6

Eng on with head lites on-- 13.2 to 13.6

Eng on with hi beam also on-- 12.6 to 12.8

Eng on with head lite, hi beam and signal-- difference of 0.2v

 

Does the above readings show that my rectifier is ok?

 

Pls advice...

Wah so coincidental. Mine also died on Saturday when I was at the coffee shop opposite LAB to buy lunch. Cost me $70 on the spot from LAB. How much did yours cost?

 

These from Honda service manual:

 

(With engine off) Battery voltage fully charged: 13.0 to 13.2 V

Under charged: 12.3V.

With engine on, headlight on HI beam, engine running at 5000rpm

 

To check rectifier, it is more tedious and u will need a ohm-meter and the factory manual. If u want I can copy the relevant pgs for u.

[vfrT]

1. vfrT - '98 VFR800 (sold at about 80,000km)

- rectifier spoilt at 50,000km. Replacement cost $210. Not a single drop of oil leaked, or oil or coolant top-up needed.

 

2. vfrT - '99 VFR800 (still in use)

- No problems. Present mileage 42000km. Not a single drop of oil leaked, or oil or coolant top-up needed.

-47000km on 17 Dec 05- original battery died (Yuasa USA). Replacement Yuasa $70 from LAB, self install.

 

3. None - '02 VFR800Vtec (still in use 65,000km)

- Front wheel bearing, front sprocket at 38,000km

- Fan thermostat at 56,000km

- Pair of tensioners at 59,000km

- Original battery dies, does not hold charge at 61,500km.

- Steering cone at 65,000km

 

4. HamsterZ - '03 VFR800A3 (still in use, covering 43,000km from 0km) -

1. No problems. No oil leaks, no oil loss (oil level is checked every saturday mornings )

2. No coolant top up (but coolant replaced annually)

3. Side stand bracket M10 bolt vibrated out & dropped of suddenly w/o knowing at about 35,000km. Attached personal service info. (kindly PM if any queries as vfrT mentioned no usually maintainence to be brought up )

5. Batt cannot sustain peak current to start bike properly. Changed new batt at 43,705km at $157.....

PS ---> (rest volt=12.9V, charge volt=14.5V... so batt seems healthy from voltage pt of view. But it doesn't die suddenly.. it has tell tale signs as the diag resets at each failed start)

6. license plate light unknowingly blew at 5000km, replaced at ard 20,000km and blew again... i left it empty w/o lights

7. top taillight main filament blew (brake filament OK) at abt 30,000++km

 

 

5. Koma 02 VFR800A2 (bought at 8000km sold at 46000km)

- no coolant n oil top up ever needed

- magnetic coil burnt at round 30000km resulting in underchargin of battery n therefore alot of push starting of the bike until problem was found out (replacement coil $300)

-

6. Rstopel take over Koma bike @ 46000km. Now at 64000km

- no oil top up needed

- coolant leak a bit at high temp due to slider drilled through reserve tank

- side stand bolt vibrated out & dropped on NSH @ 60.000km (like hamsterz)

[HamsterZ]

Originally posted by n@kan0@Dec 19 2005, 11:49 AM

do u really have to rev till 5000Rpm to determine the charging?

 

as i was changing my tires 2 weeks ago, i got the mech to check my battery & charging, and he used a voltmeter, and track. results showed that once the RPm is above 2000, there appears to have charging on the battery.

To determione if your system IS charging, basically anything above the idling will do. As long the voltage inbcrease.. your are fine.

 

But is it charging enough? Is it at a good charging health? Are your contacts dirty? and so on & on...thats when you need to rev till the voltage tops to the max.

[Maverick77]

Looking at the maintenance log of the riders makes me worried leh...

 

First of all why my coolant suddenly dry up? No top up needed means not even adding into reserve? Didn't see any observable leak... But one of the pipings near the RHS radiator shows some bubbles thru a tiny crack... Wonder if its signs of damage... Not exp enuf to determine...

 

Wat time were u there? If I had met u there would have bought from LAB liao... I changed my batt at $160... Original Yuasa YTZ12S...from Eversuccess... *%&$(

No choice, Sat evening, desperate liao... Seems like charging is ok for me... Haven had time to test charge again as of today...

 

Regarding the temp at which thermostat opens... Wats the temps for you all? Mine seems to be ard 78 to 80 range... Cos if I idle my eng thru this range, temp usually reaches 80 then drop back 1 or 2 then rise again...

[vfrT]

Originally posted by Maverick77@Dec 20 2005, 09:27 AM

Looking at the maintenance log of the riders makes me worried leh...

 

First of all why my coolant suddenly dry up? No top up needed means not even adding into reserve? Didn't see any observable leak... But one of the pipings near the RHS radiator shows some bubbles thru a tiny crack... Wonder if its signs of damage... Not exp enuf to determine...

 

Wat time were u there? If I had met u there would have bought from LAB liao... I changed my batt at $160... Original Yuasa YTZ12S...from Eversuccess... *%&$(

No choice, Sat evening, desperate liao... Seems like charging is ok for me... Haven had time to test charge again as of today...

 

Regarding the temp at which thermostat opens... Wats the temps for you all? Mine seems to be ard 78 to 80 range... Cos if I idle my eng thru this range, temp usually reaches 80 then drop back 1 or 2 then rise again...

If your coolant dries up "suddenly" then it is a problem. The small crack you mentioned is unlikely to cause this - alto it should be replaced before it becomes a bigger problem. Fill up with coolant again and run the bike for 5 minutes to bring it up to operating temp and check for leaks. Ensure that your reservoir tank is not leaking - esp if you drill through for frame slider.

 

Do you have white mist or water/ vapour coming out of your exhaust? Place a clear glass at the end of the exhaust and look for condensation. If spotted. it is an indication that there is a leak of the water jacket into the cylinder. If so you will need to tear down and replace the faulty gasket. Ouch!

 

Was at LAB at about 2.30pm. Did you wire up a fan for your rectifier? - I strongly recommend it.

 

Your bike seems to be running relatively cool compared to mine. In any case, the thermostat opens around 84 deg. The fan should kick in ard 100-102 deg and kicks out at ard 98deg. Note that the thermostat and the fan sw are two separate items and are not linked.

[none]

Originally posted by Maverick77@Dec 20 2005, 09:27 AM

Looking at the maintenance log of the riders makes me worried leh...

 

First of all why my coolant suddenly dry up? No top up needed means not even adding into reserve? Didn't see any observable leak... But one of the pipings near the RHS radiator shows some bubbles thru a tiny crack... Wonder if its signs of damage... Not exp enuf to determine...

 

Wat time were u there? If I had met u there would have bought from LAB liao... I changed my batt at $160... Original Yuasa YTZ12S...from Eversuccess... *%&$(

No choice, Sat evening, desperate liao... Seems like charging is ok for me... Haven had time to test charge again as of today...

 

Regarding the temp at which thermostat opens... Wats the temps for you all? Mine seems to be ard 78 to 80 range... Cos if I idle my eng thru this range, temp usually reaches 80 then drop back 1 or 2 then rise again...

I am using distill water with water wetter. I think you are too.

I believe distill water tends to dry up faster than normal glyco coolant.

I normally check my coolant quite frequently as my reserve tank always leak cos of the drilling for the slider.

[vifer750]

1997 VFR750FV at 63K

Rectifier failed at 32K

Rectifier replaced P/N 31600-my-600

Replaced rectifier with fins P/N 31600-my7-305 at 44K

So far so good. Regularly check for Battery voltage.

12.4V when engine off - better change new battery when planning long distance.

 

900 rpm - 12.8V

1100rpm - 13.8V

 

Replaced radiator cap twice as the rubber sealant has harden.

[vfrT]

Originally posted by none@Dec 20 2005, 12:51 PM

I am using distill water with water wetter. I think you are too.

I believe distill water tends to dry up faster than normal glyco coolant.

I normally check my coolant quite frequently as my reserve tank always leak cos of the drilling for the slider.

Hey None

 

I dont unnerstand wat u mean by "distill water tends to dry up faster than normal glyco coolant" Whether using Wetter or Glycol based coolant, they need to be mixed with distilled water.

 

Can explain?

[Maverick77]

Jus did another air bleed for my cooling system. Still got lots of bubbles coming out... Will wait to see how is it...

 

Did a batt test again... After I switch off engine, got reading of 12.8V meaning batt along...

 

With everything on, I rev to 5-6k(cos can't control so many things...) voltage increases to 13.3-13.4...

 

With everything on, without rev still 12.4 to 12.6...

 

How? Still good?

[vifer750]

How do you do your battery test, Mav?

For me I did my battery test first thing in the morning before I start the engine.

If not it might not be accurate after you start the engine as it will start charging the battery. Everthing off - 12.8V

 

I use this to verify my status of battery. See Pict.

 

For my bike I used to have my idle low below 1,000rpm. But I observer at this rate the bike is not charging the battery. Increasing slightly to 1,100rpm, use idle knob to adjust, surprising voltage increase to 13.8V. I think headlight if off if I'm not wrong. I will verify again.

 

With everything on (engine off) 12.4-12.6 is ok as the headlight , tail light make use of the battery.

[HamsterZ]

Originally posted by vifer750@Dec 23 2005, 10:09 AM

How do you do your battery test, Mav?

For me I did my battery test first thing in the morning before I start the engine.

If not it might not be accurate after you start the engine as it will start charging the battery. Everthing off - 12.8V

 

I use this to verify my status of battery. See Pict.

 

For my bike I used to have my idle low below 1,000rpm. But I observer at this rate the bike is not charging the battery. Increasing slightly to 1,100rpm, use idle knob to adjust, surprising voltage increase to 13.8V. I think headlight if off if I'm not wrong. I will verify again.

 

With everything on (engine off) 12.4-12.6 is ok as the headlight , tail light make use of the battery.

a point to add on... AS vfrT mentioned....please check batt status after the batt has "settled" meaning best left bike off for over night. Checking it straight after you kill your bike is not a "true" reading as the might bat5t might not hold the voltage.

 

No one seems to be doing this even for bike shops

[Maverick77]

Originally posted by vifer750@Dec 23 2005, 10:09 AM

How do you do your battery test, Mav?

For me I did my battery test first thing in the morning before I start the engine.

If not it might not be accurate after you start the engine as it will start charging the battery. Everthing off - 12.8V

 

I use this to verify my status of battery. See Pict.

 

For my bike I used to have my idle low below 1,000rpm. But I observer at this rate the bike is not charging the battery. Increasing slightly to 1,100rpm, use idle knob to adjust, surprising voltage increase to 13.8V. I think headlight if off if I'm not wrong. I will verify again.

 

With everything on (engine off) 12.4-12.6 is ok as the headlight , tail light make use of the battery.

I did my batt test using a voltimeter... Those type with 2 pins which u can pt 1 to +ve end and 1 to -ve end.

 

Ok, with eng off... My batt has 12.9V but like wat Hamzter mentioned, it may not be accurate cos its after I off my engine for a few min only. Will try once early in the day before moving off.

 

With no headlights, no pole lites, and engine running, even at idling of 1.2k rpm... My batts have 14.2 to 14.6V...

 

I think my rectifier should be ok... But may not be in top condition already as "none" has mentioned abt the his voltage at 5k rpm is 13.8V but mine only 13.3-13.4... Somewhat lower voltage than his bike.

 

Since you posted, how much it cost u to install that voltmeter?

[Guest KISS]

Jsut copy tis msg from another thread:-

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forum/index....howtopic=103838

 

 

Yellow VFR800 FQ9103S stolen @ Perling Mall Saturday afternoon.

 

Any info pls let me know. Thanks!

 

Pls pass tis msg around our bikers frenz.

 

97731993. Ramli.

[menphis]

anyone letting go the oem windshield for vtec version?

budget about $25-35

[HamsterZ]

Originally posted by menphis@Dec 28 2005, 10:39 PM

anyone letting go the oem windshield for vtec version?

budget about $25-35

erm OEM boh.. un-opened Givi D217S can qualify?

[menphis]

Originally posted by HamsterZ@Dec 28 2005, 11:08 PM

erm OEM boh.. un-opened Givi D217S can qualify?

how much are u letting go?

[menphis]

Originally posted by HamsterZ@Dec 28 2005, 11:08 PM

erm OEM boh.. un-opened Givi D217S can qualify?

stan, any used windshield to let go... my buyer only wants a spare shield for normal use

[HamsterZ]

Originally posted by menphis@Dec 30 2005, 12:28 AM

stan, any used windshield to let go... my buyer only wants a spare shield for normal use

erm spare have... used i dunt have leh.. the givi D217s is a un-opened piece.. I haven't even collect it yet. leh.. looks like this below

[menphis]

i asked the owner liao... give him time to think..

[jovan]

anybody noe where can i get a the Quick release thingy for the fairing

[menphis]

Originally posted by jovan@Jan 1 2006, 11:04 PM

anybody noe where can i get a the Quick release thingy for the fairing

must be a pain in the ass if needed to remove farring for vfr...

but those quick release fasteners may not be able to fit the vfr farings..

think is called deuz fastener.. something like that..