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[KoRnErBaRinG]

ah....

icic...

so how does one do a hard run in??

think i read in the frum here sumwhere but cant seem to find i now...

[WW]

Do it on a dyno machine.Fast and easy.

[MC28]

Originally posted by KoRnErBaRinG@Oct 23 2005, 10:03 AM

ah....

icic...

so how does one do a hard run in??

think i read in the frum here sumwhere but cant seem to find i now...

Here ya go..

 

Hardbreak in Writeup

[KoRnErBaRinG]

hmm.....too many words sia...

very difficult to understand...

hahah...

have to take time and read damn slow...

on a dyno eh?...how much will tht cost???

and where to do it? unity?

[Andr3w]

Originally posted by sarge@Oct 22 2005, 08:44 PM

rear suspension servicing, anyone done theirs recently?

 

mine is kinda soft oredi. any guides to tuning the spring and stuff?

servicing i not sure..but motoworld sellin the springs for a decent price...hyperpro i mean...

[Andr3w]

shawn,u wkin at west coast coast esso???

[Flaky_Boi]

Originally posted by kinwei@Oct 22 2005, 06:15 PM

Yeah time for me to talk c***. Regarding running in, just my point of view.

 

Normal run in : Suppose to be the safest way or traditional way. To me makes no diff. It just that you don't get to work out the higher range of rpm which is where the peak torque and HP is hidding. So my suggestion is after run in, just do a weekly whacking session (try to whack till red line) on your bike, and your bike will feel smoother even at higher RPM.

 

Break in : Suppose to makes sure the piston seal warp around the cylinder tightly by using engine brake. And at the same time create some pit hole surface on the cylinder so that oil will retain there. This will ensure oil will be present each time and everytime you start your bike. And will work out the last few rpm during the run in period which is where your peak HP/torque. But logically, a pitted surface will means hole become bigger faster cause the core hardness will never be as strong as the surface hardness. But till now no one is complaining but no one had seen the seal and piston wall either. Be it is a faster way to ensure complete run in on all rpm.

 

My way : Run in according to manual. But do the following, throttle to the allowed rpm at diff phase and then close throttle to engine brake. Contiune like this till run in period is over (Spec = 1600km). After that whack the bike like no tomorrow. Problem with traditional run in is, it never allow you to work out the last few rpm. If you only ride in singapore, you seldom or never have the chance to rev till 10krpm or higher. So indirectly means that you never run in fully. To run in means to let the bike get use to each gear at each rpm range.

Wow.. Brudder.. Thanx for ur info.... Will do dat....

[MC28]

Originally posted by KoRnErBaRinG@Oct 23 2005, 11:13 AM

hmm.....too many words sia...

very difficult to understand...

hahah...

have to take time and read damn slow...

on a dyno eh?...how much will tht cost???

and where to do it? unity?

Actually, you need to understand this keywords...

 

Engine Break In Method

WARM THE ENGINE UP TOTALLY!

 

Using 2nd gear only:

Using 1/2 throttle, rev from 40% to 60% of max rpm value and decelerate to 40%. Do this 3 times.

 

Using 3/4 throttle, rev from 40% to 80% of max rpm value and decelerate to 40%. Do this 3 times

 

Using FULL throttle, rev from 30% to 100% of max rpm value and decelerate to 30%. Do this 3 times.

 

Turn off bike and allow to cool till ambient temperature. (30+ degrees)

 

- Use ONLY mineral based oil

- Change oil and filter before the first 32km and as much as possible there after. I've changed my oil and filter 5 times already throughout my entire break in and EVERY oil change had metal flakes floating around in the oil and small particles depositing at the bottom of the oil drain pan... Stick only to mineral based oil for the first 2400km as recommanded by Motoman.

- Do not LUG the engine (eg. 4th gear full throttle at 2k rpm...) but rev it freely especially in the lower gears

 

VARY THE ENGINE SPEED

The engine speed should be varied and not held at a constand speed. This allows the parts to be "loaded" with pressure, and then unloaded, allowing the parts to cool. This aids the mating process of the parts. It is essential that some stress be placed on the engine components during break-in to ensure this mating process. Do not, though, apply excessive load on the engine.

 

AVOID CONSTANT LOW SPEED

Operating the engine at constant low speed (light load) can cause parts to glaze and not seat in. Allow the engine to accelerate freely through the gears, without exceeding the recommanded maximum limits. Do not, however, use full throttle for the first 1600 km (1000 miles).

 

Note:

 

Do not try this in Singapore unless you wana lose ur lic or sell off your new ride the 2nd day.Recommended to pay abit of money and do it on a Dyno instead(Unity highly recommended by WW)

 

And last but not least,

 

[Shawn--]

no leh..... i working inside ntu

[ET]

you working inside NTU??? as lecturer ahr???

[KoRnErBaRinG]

ah... thanks for the breakdown bro...

and yah thinkin of doin it on a dyno instead...

hehe

juz need to noe the price ah..

so is it best to change eo st8 away or break in then change eo and filter...

sorry to ask so many questions

kinda new to this big bike thingy...

and am tryin my best so as to make my 19k investment worthwhile...

[MC28]

Originally posted by KoRnErBaRinG@Oct 23 2005, 06:47 PM

ah... thanks for the breakdown bro...

and yah thinkin of doin it on a dyno instead...

hehe

juz need to noe the price ah..

so is it best to change eo st8 away or break in then change eo and filter...

sorry to ask so many questions

kinda new to this big bike thingy...

and am tryin my best so as to make my 19k investment worthwhile...

You can PM WW and ask him for the prices..

 

Change EO and Filter after the first 32km of breaking in..

[Shawn--]

no la.. working in ntu nanyang executive centre... sort of like a Hotel/hostel cum community centre. ET u interested to tape da thing on da exhaust?

[paiseh]

Originally posted by smokingjoe@Oct 22 2005, 10:38 AM

Hi guys,

i am a ex k1 750 rider.......maybe some of u here still remember me...haha

i have changed to a touring bike and no more into sports bike.....getting old liao...back cannot tahan liao the posture + getting married already

 

i have already sold off some items and left a few items going to sell off here from my previous 750

 

1) k&n air filter - $30

 

2) relay - $30

( the black thing in front of the air vent near to the fuse box, previously buy another one cos tot its spoilt but in the end found out that it wasnt)

 

3) oem brake hose ( front & back) - quote me a reasonble price

 

4) H7 white headlights bulb x 3 - $25

brand is spec r....very nice cool blue light

 

 

 

i am still clearing my room , and will see whether i have any more good stuff ard:smile:

 

 

 

interested pls PM me or call me @ 92993418

i wan ur H7 headlights!! y now u post

 

kns

[ET]

Originally posted by Shawn--@Oct 24 2005, 12:40 AM

no la.. working in ntu nanyang executive centre... sort of like a Hotel/hostel cum community centre. ET u interested to tape da thing on da exhaust?

tape already turn what? you got pic of how you tape and whats the outcome?

[Shawn--]

Originally posted by RVF_YOSHI@Oct 21 2005, 12:44 PM

GUYS!!!!.....after i wrap my whole exhaust....1st few runs there r white smoke comin out frm ur header,mid pipe etc..dats normally ask the thermo wrap conform to ur exhaust...guess wad...i pump s$5...i done a good mileage of 125km.i dun feel so much heat comin up to ur balls,exhaust seems like sound better.i chaeck wit my car frenz..they was told by workshop dat thermo wrap actually increase ur combustion heat therefore no power lost...cool...i feel more power now..mayb i sensitive..haha..ya i did it my self..i remove the whole farring..farkin waste time..didnt reali wrap veri nice cos radiator blockin,drain plug blocking,foot rest blockin.knn many things block..but if u hav the time n patience...slowly do still would b nice..y cos i ask shop to do..guess wad they gona charge me $55 for that..wtf

there~ he commented these...

 

After tape already looks abit ugly la, coz like using white tape.. tape all over ur exhaust header...

[ET]

then i rather not tape it...whahaha....

[nocturnized]

haiyo me suay la...

 

anybody how to remove the headlight casing ? last night i was trying to put the pole light back into the socket and then the light bulb fell inside. Donno how to get the thing out..

 

secondly, while coming back from jb first link, didn't know that my single seater cowl was not put in properly. while going down the slope, the cowl flew out and drop somewhere near to the side of the road. Damage: some scratches and marks on the thing. *sigh* .. u think i shall just respray it or just paste some stickers over it ??

[kinwei]

Originally posted by nocturnized@Oct 25 2005, 06:05 PM

haiyo me suay la...

 

anybody how to remove the headlight casing ? last night i was trying to put the pole light back into the socket and then the light bulb fell inside. Donno how to get the thing out..

 

secondly, while coming back from jb first link, didn't know that my single seater cowl was not put in properly. while going down the slope, the cowl flew out and drop somewhere near to the side of the road. Damage: some scratches and marks on the thing. *sigh* .. u think i shall just respray it or just paste some stickers over it ??

Headlight casing? Easy.. I can help u.. but not thru the forum, very hard. Give me a call before fri. I'm leaving for Hatyai on fri. U can go get your single seat respray for ard $50 or less. Most likely is a touch up job. Easy.

[nocturnized]

Originally posted by kinwei@Oct 25 2005, 06:49 PM

Headlight casing? Easy.. I can help u.. but not thru the forum, very hard. Give me a call before fri. I'm leaving for Hatyai on fri. U can go get your single seat respray for ard $50 or less. Most likely is a touch up job. Easy.

heyyy... thx thx. i'll try to give u a call before friday... as for the respray, where can i get it done at ? would the quality be the same as the original one ?

[MC28]

Originally posted by nocturnized@Oct 25 2005, 08:30 PM

heyyy... thx thx. i'll try to give u a call before friday... as for the respray, where can i get it done at ? would the quality be the same as the original one ?

The single seat crowl can either be respray if the scratches is very deep or just sand down..

[and]

Originally posted by WW@Oct 23 2005, 10:50 AM

Do it on a dyno machine.Fast and easy.

so unity do break in servise for new bikes isit expensive

[rvfwei]

hi,like to ASK is k6 shorter then k5?cause i am quite short...is 600 taller then 1000 one?

[Shawn--]

when da rpm is at 4k and above, my ERP unit shakes like a cb... and creating da irritating sound.. any of u also like this??

 

Today duno wad happen sial.. 1 of my plugs blow off... my pipe give da cannon sound... then after ride.. its okie liao.

[conspiraC]

Originally posted by Shawn--@Oct 25 2005, 11:21 PM

when da rpm is at 4k and above, my ERP unit shakes like a cb... and creating da irritating sound.. any of u also like this??

 

Today duno wad happen sial.. 1 of my plugs blow off... my pipe give da cannon sound... then after ride.. its okie liao.

My IU unit also like dat. screw loose. must go and tighten. afaid the whole thing drop off while riding. can get caught at the handle bar that side.... sure become like clark kent after dat.

 

wat cannon sound? like backfire like dat?