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BMW Motorcycles


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BMW R1200GSA Original Tank 2005-2007 for $300 https://carousell.com/p/60053990 on #carousell

 

Anyone want a 2005-2007 R1200GSA tank?

Initially bought it to convert my 05 GS to have a bigger tank.. But too bad my GS is going to be scraped so now selling the tank.

Actually I also bought all the brackets, cover,, etc listed in the links for the conversion.. those parts are still at the workshop but If anyone is interested in those parts, can contact me as well. Tks.

Edited by TWdude26

Past: TA150,XVS400,ST1100,TW200,YP250,XL883R,RXK125,FUOCO500IE,R1200C,TW200,FLSTF,XL883L,KLE650B

Present: R1200GS,DRZ400SM,FLTR[RoadGlide]

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  • 2 weeks later...

Anyone knows where can I get a clutch lever for my f650gs 2011? Dropped the bike and unfortunately the lever broke. Argh. Does anyone know if there is any bike shop who can help to lower the seat or suspension etc to make the bike lower? New to a beemer!

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Hi Buso,

 

I usually get spares from the UK. Its quite reliable and minus the VAT, becomes more affordable than the published price. Delivery is faster than ebay sites as well (esp USA).

 

Lowered seat gives about 40mm height difference but must check for availability. I don't recommend you cut your springs or try to alter your current shocks.

 

I only assume that you don't wish to spend big $$$ but looking for better alternative.

Otherwise if $$$ is not an issue, Wunderlich, Ohlins and Orig BMW parts would have the parts you need, clutch, lowered suspension or lowered seat.

 

650gs seat.jpg

 

650gs clutch lever motobins.jpgclutch650gs.jpg

Edited by bimmerboxer
error

bimmerboxer

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Hi Buso,

 

I usually get spares from the UK. Its quite reliable and minus the VAT, becomes more affordable than the published price. Delivery is faster than ebay sites as well (esp USA).

 

Lowered seat gives about 40mm height difference but must check for availability. I don't recommend you cut your springs or try to alter your current shocks.

 

I only assume that you don't wish to spend big $$$ but looking for better alternative.

Otherwise if $$$ is not an issue, Wunderlich, Ohlins and Orig BMW parts would have the parts you need, clutch, lowered suspension or lowered seat.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]336216[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]336209[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]336210[/ATTACH]

Hi bimmerboxer. Wat online site is tis?

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not sure if this is the correct place to ask. Will be taking our an RT next week and was browsing the manual. Many torque figures specified for bolts. Is it very critical on the bolt torque specs for BMW bikes? I normally tighten by "feel" Ans where can I get the correct torque wrench for the bike? any recommendations?

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u149/dinzmetal/Ninja650500X200Banner.jpg

 

"Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme That Which I Desire, Ooh!"

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Not sure if this is the correct place to ask. Will be taking our an RT next week and was browsing the manual. Many torque figures specified for bolts. Is it very critical on the bolt torque specs for BMW bikes? I normally tighten by "feel" Ans where can I get the correct torque wrench for the bike? any recommendations?

 

Dinzmetal,

Hope I can help..what do you mean by 'taking our an RT'..typo perhaps?

I think you want to say that you are going touring and want to be prepared. Thats great! If I am wrong to assume so, ignore all that follows.

 

Bringing a Torque wrench is like bringing a sink when you go camping. So practically, you won't.

The critical parts that require very specific torque settings are for

1) Splitting the Engine

2) Removing Cylinder Heads, sleeves and covers

3) Clutch replacement

4) Sprockets (some models)

5) Swingarm bushing, Final Bearing and Steering Bush.

All these repairs are major and require a workshop and all its ancillaries.

You'll earn alot of respect if you can do this on the road. Wait, you'll earn a lot of respect if you can do this.

 

So most tourers will ensure that they have at least have enough mileage left on their clutch (most common) and adjusted their tappets before a trip.

DO NOT overfill with motor oil thinking that boxers will burn off some along the way. It may break the seal and spoil your trip.

 

If you look at some bmw bolts, you realise that they tend to use 'star' wrenches as opposed to normal hex 8,10, 12 etc.

The material also seems to be of a 'tinny' zinc alloy that rusts.

DO NOT BE MISTAKEN!

SKang (u know who) will tend to replace steering handlebar clamp bolts for stainless ones. They claim BMW is cheap in supplying inferior bolts. WRONG!!!

 

BMW bolts are designed with a material that

1) will give way before the thread of the housing, thus protecting 'Arnold like' wrenchers from destroying the more critical threads and finally requiring more expensive repairs.

2) deforms slightly in the threads to provide a 'locknut' function.

This is why 'torque' figures are provided cause too much strength will damage the bolts and they will strip..

 

Remember that BMWs, have most housing parts in aluminum or some lighter softer material. That's why a humungous GS weighs only 220kg.

 

The only advice I can give, is when tightening a bolt in

- plastic housing, hand tighten, then add 1/4 turn

- aluminum or some other metal, tighten until you hear a rasping sound then stop! (if you don't hear the sound, please don't keep on going even if it gets very tight).

 

On removing bolts, some bolts may require heat to loosen the area, e.g. oil filler cover, swing arm, so please do not apply excessive force as well.

WD40 will not help.

 

The above is general and alot depends on your specific model and year. Again, please don't hold me responsible if you're stuck enroute to Chiang Mai and the shop asks if you have a torque wrench.

bimmerboxer

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Hello!

 

I am selecting my first class 2 bike.

By my frame size (6ft3'') and riding preferences it will be most likely a large tourer.

The main usage will be commuting (50km every day on ECP/AYE), weekend spins around town, sometimes food shopping.

 

Any riders of R 1200RT or 800RT here?

 

Please share your likes and dislikes about using the bike as DAILY HIGHWAY COMMUTER and CITY WEEKEND BIKE (not for obvious long-distance holiday cruising)?

 

I see that many parking lots in central shopping malls have very narrow small lots, so these are not suitable for a large bike at all (I have problems parking my current 400cc cruiser).

Is it a major headache when you go to central town and cannot park large RT in many places?

 

Any other major difficulties with RT in SG?

 

Any views about RT would be most welcome, Thanks lot.

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Dinzmetal,

Hope I can help..what do you mean by 'taking our an RT'..typo perhaps?

I think you want to say that you are going touring and want to be prepared. Thats great! If I am wrong to assume so, ignore all that follows.

 

Bringing a Torque wrench is like bringing a sink when you go camping. So practically, you won't.

The critical parts that require very specific torque settings are for

1) Splitting the Engine

2) Removing Cylinder Heads, sleeves and covers

3) Clutch replacement

4) Sprockets (some models)

5) Swingarm bushing, Final Bearing and Steering Bush.

All these repairs are major and require a workshop and all its ancillaries.

You'll earn alot of respect if you can do this on the road. Wait, you'll earn a lot of respect if you can do this.

 

So most tourers will ensure that they have at least have enough mileage left on their clutch (most common) and adjusted their tappets before a trip.

DO NOT overfill with motor oil thinking that boxers will burn off some along the way. It may break the seal and spoil your trip.

 

If you look at some bmw bolts, you realise that they tend to use 'star' wrenches as opposed to normal hex 8,10, 12 etc.

The material also seems to be of a 'tinny' zinc alloy that rusts.

DO NOT BE MISTAKEN!

SKang (u know who) will tend to replace steering handlebar clamp bolts for stainless ones. They claim BMW is cheap in supplying inferior bolts. WRONG!!!

 

BMW bolts are designed with a material that

1) will give way before the thread of the housing, thus protecting 'Arnold like' wrenchers from destroying the more critical threads and finally requiring more expensive repairs.

2) deforms slightly in the threads to provide a 'locknut' function.

This is why 'torque' figures are provided cause too much strength will damage the bolts and they will strip..

 

Remember that BMWs, have most housing parts in aluminum or some lighter softer material. That's why a humungous GS weighs only 220kg.

 

The only advice I can give, is when tightening a bolt in

- plastic housing, hand tighten, then add 1/4 turn

- aluminum or some other metal, tighten until you hear a rasping sound then stop! (if you don't hear the sound, please don't keep on going even if it gets very tight).

 

On removing bolts, some bolts may require heat to loosen the area, e.g. oil filler cover, swing arm, so please do not apply excessive force as well.

WD40 will not help.

 

The above is general and alot depends on your specific model and year. Again, please don't hold me responsible if you're stuck enroute to Chiang Mai and the shop asks if you have a torque wrench.

 

Thank you for the very enlighting post.. To clear the above, yes, a lot of typo in my query. Much apologies. I meant to say that I will be taking delivery of an RT that following week and my main concern was the tightening torque figures mentioned in the manual. In addition to that, saw a few YouTube vids which constantly uses the torque wrenches (crash bar installation,air filter removal and replacement, oil plug removal, etc). Heck, even the clutch lever master pump has a torque value on them (8Nm if I remember correctly). I do not have a torque wrench and also not familiar in purchasing one, thus the above post. I do minor works on my bike and from the above post, would really not damage the threads of the bolts.

 

Nonetheless, a Very useful information provided which will come in handy. Yes, my doubts are cleared in a way except where do you guys get and select the torque wrenches.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u149/dinzmetal/Ninja650500X200Banner.jpg

 

"Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme That Which I Desire, Ooh!"

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Dinzmetal,

Hope I can help..what do you mean by 'taking our an RT'..typo perhaps?

I think you want to say that you are going touring and want to be prepared. Thats great! If I am wrong to assume so, ignore all that follows.

 

Bringing a Torque wrench is like bringing a sink when you go camping. So practically, you won't.

The critical parts that require very specific torque settings are for

1) Splitting the Engine

2) Removing Cylinder Heads, sleeves and covers

3) Clutch replacement

4) Sprockets (some models)

5) Swingarm bushing, Final Bearing and Steering Bush.

All these repairs are major and require a workshop and all its ancillaries.

You'll earn alot of respect if you can do this on the road. Wait, you'll earn a lot of respect if you can do this.

 

So most tourers will ensure that they have at least have enough mileage left on their clutch (most common) and adjusted their tappets before a trip.

DO NOT overfill with motor oil thinking that boxers will burn off some along the way. It may break the seal and spoil your trip.

 

If you look at some bmw bolts, you realise that they tend to use 'star' wrenches as opposed to normal hex 8,10, 12 etc.

The material also seems to be of a 'tinny' zinc alloy that rusts.

DO NOT BE MISTAKEN!

SKang (u know who) will tend to replace steering handlebar clamp bolts for stainless ones. They claim BMW is cheap in supplying inferior bolts. WRONG!!!

 

BMW bolts are designed with a material that

1) will give way before the thread of the housing, thus protecting 'Arnold like' wrenchers from destroying the more critical threads and finally requiring more expensive repairs.

2) deforms slightly in the threads to provide a 'locknut' function.

This is why 'torque' figures are provided cause too much strength will damage the bolts and they will strip..

 

Remember that BMWs, have most housing parts in aluminum or some lighter softer material. That's why a humungous GS weighs only 220kg.

 

The only advice I can give, is when tightening a bolt in

- plastic housing, hand tighten, then add 1/4 turn

- aluminum or some other metal, tighten until you hear a rasping sound then stop! (if you don't hear the sound, please don't keep on going even if it gets very tight).

 

On removing bolts, some bolts may require heat to loosen the area, e.g. oil filler cover, swing arm, so please do not apply excessive force as well.

WD40 will not help.

 

The above is general and alot depends on your specific model and year. Again, please don't hold me responsible if you're stuck enroute to Chiang Mai and the shop asks if you have a torque wrench.

 

Thank you for the very enlighting post.. To clear the above, yes, a lot of typo in my query. Much apologies. I meant to say that I will be taking delivery of an RT that following week and my main concern was the tightening torque figures mentioned in the manual. In addition to that, saw a few YouTube vids which constantly uses the torque wrenches (crash bar installation,air filter removal and replacement, oil plug removal, etc). Heck, even the clutch lever master pump has a torque value on them (8Nm if I remember correctly). I do not have a torque wrench and also not familiar in purchasing one, thus the above post. I do minor works on my bike and from the above post, would really not damage the threads of the bolts.

 

Nonetheless, a Very useful information provided which will come in handy. Yes, my doubts are cleared in a way except where do you guys get and select the torque wrenches.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u149/dinzmetal/Ninja650500X200Banner.jpg

 

"Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme That Which I Desire, Ooh!"

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Not sure if this is the correct place to ask. Will be taking our an RT next week and was browsing the manual. Many torque figures specified for bolts. Is it very critical on the bolt torque specs for BMW bikes? I normally tighten by "feel" Ans where can I get the correct torque wrench for the bike? any recommendations?

 

Bro sorry may I ask how do you find the bike coming from a kawa? Yours is PML bike?

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GRAB ON GRIP (GOG)

 

image.jpg image.jpg

 

image.jpg image.jpg

 

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- Genuine Made In USA.

 

- Slip over existing grips for greater comfort, or to renew worn grips.

- Work with heated or standard grips.

- Save $$$, no need change the whole heater grip system which is very costly.

- Shock absorbing EPDM foam for a smoother ride.

- Provide comfort to wrist and palm. (Great for touring !!)

- Glove friendly.

- Extra durable, ozone, UV, gas and oil resistant

- Grip Covers MC402/width 1.25-1.45"/5"Length.

 

- Fits class 2, 2A, 2B bikes as long as its a standard grip, it can fit .

 

- Great for city riding where there's lots of traffic light, your hand will be tired during the on going "stop go" situation, this product will help to ease the stress on palm n wrist. Highly recommended for despatch/delivery riders.

 

"Once you try it, you'll LOVE it"

 

PM for more details - 83885695 Wan

carousell.com/grabongrip

 

Tags : BMW - All models. Ducati - All Models. KTM - All Models. Harleys (Only if its standard grips. Those oversize grips, can't fit). Triumph - All models. Moto Guzzi, Reiju, Kawasaki - All models. Honda - All models. Yamaha - All models. Phantom, RXZ, Piaggio Vespa Gilera, Motard, Scramblers, Kups.

"Shut Up n Ride"

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